Reloading to the Extreme - Every Single Thing You Need
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2019
- Jimmy, Mark, Ryan Muckenhirn, and listener as well as two-time guest, Trent Brenny, go into detail on the pencil dive, the cannon ball and the full-on head-first swan dive (Good, better and best) of reloading kits, detailing literally every single piece of gear necessary for you to get the job done. This has been one of Jimmy and Mark’s classic go-to excuses for not reloading - “It’s too complicated”, “There’s too many pieces of equipment to buy and I don’t know what to get”, “Everyone we talk to says we need something different”, etc. No more excuses - You can even get the job done with a $30 Lee Classic Kit and a hammer, which we even demonstrate in this episode!
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To me, this was an excellent overview of the process. I’ve been reloading a little over 6 years with a couple of Dillons, a T mag and a single stage and your comments mirrored my experience exactly. The integrity of your podcasts is better than most of the other content I have viewed on TH-cam and I rarely feel like this channel is just trying to sell me something. Thank you for setting up such a good resource.
I used a Lee hand loader 30 years ago for my Browning bar 30-06. It never failed to chamber or eject. Still have both. And just purchased a hand loader for a new 45-70. Thanks for the show.
The Vortex Nation Podcast is pure gold. I can't believe there are fewer than 30k subscribers at the time of this comment.
Keep it up, guys. Nice work. And, thanks.
We appreciate that, my friend! 🤜🤛
I learn so much from these guys podcasts
This is one of the most informative podcasts I've seen. Good work fellas
My nephew gave me a Lee Classic Loader .in .308 to my birthday. (He knew that I wanted one.). I loaded some once fired brass using 168gr ELD-M's and A2520 and got some very nice groups with these loads. Using boat tail bullets gives very good concentricity in the Classic Loader. Unfortunately the Classic Loader isn't available in 7x57R, which I shoot in my combination gun.
Ahhh, remember components? That was awesome. -Chris Farley
It's now 3 years later since the making of this video and I really hope you guys kept reloading. It's very rewarding to me. You can optimize rifle accuracy pretty easily that far surpasses factory grade ammo. All this was a good start and I hope you guys are happy and safe with the process.
Sometimes top performing powders are not at all forgiving. Think h110/w296. You do not want to mess around loading above or below book specs or you can get very inconsistent ignition and pressures, but when loaded right they'll push magnum revolver bullets to speeds very few other powders will
Tell Ryan, I do have a mobile reloading set-up. I went out west for some prairie dog shooting and a match, since I didn't have a lot of brass for my wildcat round, I brought my 550. I mounted some 1/2" flat cold rolled plate to an off-set trailer hitch (hitch inverted) and that was the perfect height with a small chair to do some reloading after supper. The bumper offered a bit of a shelf to rest a few extra tools and cup of coffee.
Good thinking...I like where your heads at.👍🏻 Sounds like something I would do!
What round were you shooting at that match??
Well, it was actually a machine-gun shoot, and also prairiedog shoot. (Nothing like being able to safely write your name in the sky with 50 BMG tracers) I also took my AR-15 in my wildcat round. It shoots a 350 grain bullet at up to 2600 fps.
You guys deserve way more views, this is the most informative video for a beginner reloader!
Thank you - glad you enjoyed!
It’s good but a this a lot of people need to watch guys like Johnnys reloading bench, Elvis Ammo, I would have said MannyCA but a lot of his content was wiped off TH-cam. But those guys have tons of videos explaining everything to the tee. Problem is idk how long Johnny and Elvis’s content is going to last. Before their content gets wiped like MannyCA.
I soak my brass in grape Kool-Aid. For 36 hours. Mix it up double strength and no sugar. Brass has been decapped with a Harley decapping tool. Never ever does dirty brass come close to my dies or press. I rinse off with water. Dump the brass on a dry towel. Wipe all the brass all at once. Take my air compressor and insert end into the primer pocket. And blow them out into an empty cereal box. (Soaking softens up burn powder residue.) Then I toss into a tumbler which has walnut media, four one inch size used dryer sheets that I cut to size and some liquid car wax. I safe the kool-aid mix in a gallon milk container. When I pour it back in. I use a large funnel that I put an automotive paint filter. Brass comes out really nice after tumbling for three hours. And the wax protects it from corrosion. After I resize and trim brass. Place them back in the tumble again for an hour. Learned about the kool-aid trick from a guy at the gun range. Also figured out only the brand named Kool-Aid works and the Walmart brand doesn’t. Probably not as acidic.
My handloading mentor started with that Lee contraption on his kitchen table to make 45 ACP. It works.
I firmly believe that everyone should start on a single stage press. Learn how to do one step at a time, how to adjust each die exactly right, and take your time. 1,000 rounds an hour should not be your starting goal. For bottle necked cartridges like 308 Winchester a single stage press and 2 dies are all you ever need - a full length sizing die and a bullet seater. You have to do case prep in between those 2 steps anyway.
The Forster Co-Ax is a better mousetrap in terms of a single stage press because of the was the shell is held, allowing the case to self center in each die. The Dillon progressive 550 and 650 presses are really good for straight walled cartridges but there are others. My Hornady LNL progressive was a little fiddly but it puts out Ammo fast enough for me. Forster and Redding make the best rifle dies in my experience. A Lyman 3-die set is perfect for pistol cartridges FOR ME.
There’s too much focus on just Lee and Dillon here. Both are good options for certain people, certain applications, and specific price points, but Forster, Hornady, RCBS and Redding all belong in the discussion. (I’ve tried everything except Dillon.)
P.S. crimping is a hotly debated topic. Lee Factory Crimp Die users are ardent and vocal, but some of us think a proper taper crimp or roll crimp die does the job when you need to crimp. A .45-70 or .44 Magnum cartridge needs a hard roll crimp. In an 1895 lever action you’ve got a stack of cartridges in the tubular magazine and every shot could push bullets down into the case.
OTOH 308 and other bottlenecked cartridges typically do not require any crimp as long as you have proper neck tension. To resolve my own concerns on this topic after a recent internet flame fest, I talked with techs from Hornady and Sierra. Do your own research but please - go to the most reliable source possible.
I just realized to someone just walking up to all this equipment. It can be so intimidating like whoa 🤯 I can’t do this. I can assure you yes you can. Don’t let all that stuff on the table scare you. Reloading isn’t that complicated. Once you have reloaded a few and you read the data. I promise you will start to pick it up.
As a seasoned reloader I find your video very informative for new reloader’s to help make informed decisions. There are lots of options and depending on a reloader’s style can be tailored their needs. There is another handheld press option thatLee offers as well as a turret press before one gets to the progress presses. Not to mention the different kinds of priming methods from hand primers to ram mounted press primers. I look forward to the next video in the series. A bad day in the reloading room still beats a good day at work!
Two years ago I was a new reloader. I have a good mechanical background. I went Dillon RL 550C. The key is research. I knew single stage though cheaper would not work. During the pandemic I was able to help friends stay shooting with the volume. It was expensive around $2000 plus to get all the set ups I calibers, but now I am able to run what I need for years to come. I am very busy and slow single stage takes way to long. Plus they RL550 can load one round art a time and I can manually drop powder through a funnel for precise loads.
I use the oven method to dry cases. set oven at lowest setting ( 150* ) spread cases on a cookie sheet and leave them in oven for about 30 min. dry as a popcorn fart!
Even though the lee classic handloader is the cheapest method I would recommend moving up slightly to the Lee hand press. Safer and allows full length sizing and use of regular dies for only slightly more money.
I am watching this, and I am hearing Abott and Costello: "Who's on first?" "Toilet for a bullet." "Primer boinker."
"Caramel candy green apples."
😂🤣😂🤣
I love your channel.
the cheapest full every step reloading kit to create i found would be
1. lee classic loader. $34.19
2. Lee Case Conditioning Kit (chamfer and deburring tool, primer pocket cleaner, case trimmer, drill lock stud)$10
3. Lee Case Length Gauge and Shellholder (easy way to trim brass cases to length, works with #2 above ) $3-7
4. bees wax candle (more then hot enough to anneal brass)1200°C or 2190°F at the tip of the flame. $2
5. dawn dish soap+citric acid/lemme shine+container/bag/bottle (to soak and clean cases, shaken 1-2hrs ). $10
around $60-65 total.
if you only had only one rifle and one box of ammo, you could reload the same rifle brass cartridge around 10-15+ times if annealed every so often. some people have gone past 20+ reloads on brass casings. but eventually the primer pocket loosens up far to much.
this kit setup is meant for bolt actions and revolvers. auto-loaders i would avoid for safety reasons (case head separations). levers and pumps might not cycle as the lee classic loader says it only neck sizes.
I would really like a full length podcast about suggestions of powders, bullets, and primers. Basically a more in depth breakdown of the differences in powder burn rates and how that works with different calibers using different weighted/designed bullets. I think it would be extremely helpful for the newbies like me because I've watched just about all of yalls podcasts and that's something yall never really covered. It would be awesome to hear what has worked for yall and suggestions of things to stay away from because there's so many choices out there to pick from.
get the reloading books, for the bullets you want to try, get all the different powders for that bullet for that caliber, make 5 different powder charge groups to test to see what your rifle likes best, try different powder charges the book calls for, try different seating depths, try different bullets even, there are 100s if not 1000s of loads you could make for that particular caliber by trying different powders, charges, bullets, depths. thats part of the fun is the testing.
Ha, glad I’m not the only one foiled by the Lee box even after I know how it works. I’m enjoying catching up on all the only epesodes, super helpful.
I use walnut shells to tumble my brass in. I then wash my cases in dish soap to get the dust off. I then put them in a pan and throw them in the oven for about 15-20 minutes at like 350°.
38:65 - Well what I did when I bought my (Lee Precision reloading kit) also known as the classic in this podcast, was calibrate that length with a new cartridge so I had the correct length. after that I played around with the length because my gun likes slightly longer than factory loads
1 thing on the little hand load kit. It doesn't have a case sizing die, so reliability in semi-autos goes down, but if you have a single shot or a revolver, they are great, shouldn't have a problem.
Great video. Not sure if I missed it mentioned, First thing I recommend getting is Concentricity Gauge, even if do not plan to reload, hand load. I use to check and true factory ammo, has made noticeable difference
I have had great success in buying my equipment second had. That brings the cost way down and I haven't had any issues. I've gotten a great Hornady 366 progressive for my shotgun reloading as well as a Dillon XL650.
Haha my first "I bought rifle"
Winchester mod 94 in 30.30.
I also bought a Lee hand loader. A hand primer tool.
I loved it never had a issue.
This was a great teaching lesson, seems like that would be therapy at home. Guys great job on the podcast .
The Lee Classic Loader makes surprisingly good ammo and is a great way to start learning the reloading basics. The Lee dippers are a great way to start rifle loads and then use a trickler and a quality mechanical scale to get to desired powder weight.
That's what I heard about cleaning in a ultrasonic cleaner. Dawn and lemon shine leaves brand new
First press was a Dillon 550 to reload pistol ammo. I now use the 550 and a single stage to reload rifle ammo . As I learned, I have added new equipment to make the process faster or more precise. If I was to advise someone getting into this I would say start with a single stage but don’t be skeerd of a progressive and do not sell or give anything away. I don’t want to sound like a hoarder, just that almost every piece of reloading equipment is really good for something. Also, inline fabrication mounts are your friend if you have limited bench space.
Definitely buy the Lyman Multi Tool. The chamfer it makes let's you seat the bullets much more concentric. And it includes some other useful tools like the primer pocket uniformer.
Fantastic, I see this in my future.
This was a great video with great visuals that none of us can see because there's no close up camera
Thanks for tuning in!
In my reloading circle, Lee is looked at, as a cheap reloading gear. I think that that is very unfortunate considering I have made ammo that is every bit as accurate using Lee equipment. I would definitely recommend Lee for reloading even precision ammo and you will save hundreds of dollars.
Going way back, but Where should I be doing this reloading? Basement, closet, outdoor shop?
The Lee kit is only for cases that have been fired in a particular rifle.
I use the lee dippers to get me close to where I trickle. I have noticed very low standard deviations in the weights, surprisingly low, like .15 grains (n=50). You just have to develop a consistent method for dipping, tapping, etc.
They have medication for that trickle problem.
@@The10thManRules hehe
Love this channel
1:06:39 the sound ive heard for almost 2 years
You can dry your brass by putting it in the oven on low heat. Learned it from jerry miculek
You can use a hair dryer on brass
I cannot help myself but say that a reloading scale can be had for under $20 and even when using the Lee scoop a charge should be confirmed on a scale.
Seat depth actually plays so little on pressures. Your crimp and or neck tension matters way more on how much extra pressure builds. CATASTROPHE will NOT happen if that too deep seated bullet is fired.
If your going to reload those Lee dippers are a Joke. Sure they will put some powder in the case, but it is best to use a scale and work up a load that is accurate for your specific gun. Those dippers are more like a one size fits all, and are on the lower end of the scale. And it takes practice, along with a scale, to learn how to accurately scope the powder so that one does not over charge a load, causing high pressures which could turn out to be fatal. {Oh and by the way they are on their 4th color now. They were originally black, then they changed the color to red, then again to yellow, and now they are making orange ones.}
Also y'all keep saying that the Lee Classic Loader has every thing one needs to start reloading, but that is not true. For one they will need to get a plastic mallet. They will need case lube to help keep the cases from getting stuck in the resizing die. If they do stick a case in the die they will need a case extractor tool to get the case out of the die. That or have a second resizing die handy, as the first will be useless until the case is extracted. Also a very important thing all reloaders should have is a reloading manual that has the specific bullets and powders that one will be using to get the recipe for their rounds. Remember safety first. And then for when they over seat a bullet they will need some sort of a bullet puller, as over seated bullet can cause extreme over pressures that can blow a gun into pieces before their eyes. [Oh, did I mention safety glasses to wear during the primer seating step? And I tell you the truth, to be on the safe side one should also get a hand primer tool to seat the primers.] To even know if they over seated the bullet they will need a caliper. And last but not least they will need some sort of a case cleaning tool to clean out the spent cases of all the muck built up in them, so that the volume does not shrink and start to build up over pressures. And if they are going to use new cases it does not hurt one bit to have a chamfer and deburring tool. To clean the primmer pockets they will at least need a flathead screw driver, or better yet a primer pocket cleaner [this is to help assure a consistent ignition of the powder]. Once their cases stretch they will need a case trimmer, although straight wall cases do not have this issue near the extreme bottle neck case do.
Now just to help make the process easier one might as well go ahead on and get a funnel, a powder trickler, a reloading block of some sort to hold the cases so that they do not fall over and spill the powder all over the place. [really why not get the little extras? Yeah, you know, all that other stuff on the table there.]
Really y'all just glossed over the subject and should either change the title to reflect such or delete this video and make one that holds up to the title!
People tie flies right on the creek even.
I have also picked up an RCBS single stage. Just keep your eyes open you can find great deals. As I tell everyone anything that you're getting into someone else is looking to get out of.
I got a hand me down rock chucker. Amazing first press
Rock Chucker hands down best basic single stage
Determine the application. Considering the launch vehicle (firearm) choose a bullet. Get data directly from the bullet manufacturer - call if you must. I had someone fax me reloading data more than once… Bullet maker data is #1. Powder company data is #2. One or more manual is #3. Internet data is, well, internet data. Stay within the bounds of 1, 2 & 3 and all will go well.
Of course in 2023 you have to take into account what powder you have or can get. Same with bullets. Primers - you need the right primer. Period.
Is it possible to reload ammunition even without electricity like in a SHTF scenario?
Can use whatever rifle that the round was shot out of
This was an excellent show. You didn't skip stips. And, you did not hide your mistakes. That's called being a man! Thank you for that. Maranatha!
I've heard of the lemi-shine from my gunsmith.
Ryan , I thought you told us that you had a lot of (Lee) reloading Dies ? the cases that they package there dies in are all the same packaging-cases
i got the Lee Deluxe Kit, and wow am i glad i did, it had everything you need to get started, other than dies for your caliber. please read your manuals and books and FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS. the Lee book that came with the kit is great and i use the Lee dies and they come with instructions as well to help setup the dies. i recommend getting the reloading book for the particular bullets you want to shoot such as Hornady bullets get the Hornady book, Speer bullets get the Speer book. i recommend for the Beginner getting a Single Stage, Learn It, become an expert at it, then you might think about getting a progressive. Reloading is NOT a quick thing, please take your time and follow the directions, you Need to be OC when it comes to reloading! PAY ATTENTION to everything.
Does tumbling your brass cause work hardening ?
Ryan has a round go off and nobody notices. I chamfer my brass and my dad thinks something is breaking in the basement.
You forgot to mention Magnum primers
Good video, however... Safety glasses should be worn. There's a small but real chance of detonating a primer and causing an eye injury.
Seen a mobile shotgun press
It really is not "Rocket Science". Once you learn the process, it is pretty easy. I learned on a single stage and learned with one chambering. I will say however, the rabbit hole is as deep as you want it to be and the more I do this the more it becomes an art form to me.
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