WINTER CAMPING STOVE TIPS!!! Improve Stove Efficiency and Increase Space in Your Hot Tent!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- Here are some great tips to improve the efficiency of your tent stove while also increasing the usable space in your hot tent. I am using the Winnerwell Fastfold Titanium Tent Stove but these tips can be used with most packable wood stoves.
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Your dog seemed to pay attention to what you were doing throughout, 10/10 student
Lol, he is a pretty good student!
A good coal base is key to closing dampers and holding heat. Closing up with just fire chokes the flames. Coal base produces heat and simmers wood, giving a slow burn. That’s when you close up, retain heat, get a long burn time and don’t have the fire die. Thanks great camp.
That's great advice, thanks for sharing!
Thats critical thinking. Good to know one can turn that lid around and still latch it. Very nice sir and Thank You!
I'm happy to help! Thanks for watching.
great idea on the baffle!
Thanks!
Smartest thing I've seen yet w/ a tent stove. ⛺️ AWESOMENESS. ...Alan in 🇨🇱
Thanks, I'm glad you see the benefits!
That was an awesome idea for the baffle. How difficult is it to bend the titanium? I have the Seek Outside tipi and titanium break down stove and have thought of doing the same thing that you showed here but had not decided on a baffle method yet. A baffle in the top of the stove gives a better cooking surface on top of the stove as well as burns up sparks much more efficiently instead of sending them up the stove pipe to exit and fall on the tent.
Super easy, I bent it all by hand.
@@SFARCO Thanks for the info.
Anytime!
Thanks man, great tip! Should reduce the risk of sparks big time as well.
Thanks! It definitely helps with sparks. I have added a second spark arrestor that works really well too. I talk about in my more stove tips video.
Solid tips. I've struggled with this very space issue too many times. I will be adopting this idea. Thank you.
Thanks, I'm glad to help!
When my Seek Outside stove arrives I was going to make a baffle, but yours is so much better than the way I'd intended.
I will also make a stack robber, modelled on the design by the much missed Woods Walker.
With an adjustable air intake vent, a baffle, a stack robber and a damper, it should be possible to prolog the burn time and retain as much heat as is possible with a tiny stove.
The use of charcoal briquettes should also help extend the burn time.
Thank you for sharing your excellent baffle. Subscribed.
No problem, i'm glad it helped. Sounds like you will have quite the setup! And yes he is missed by many. Thanks for the support!
I just got a stove and tent. Was already thinking of putting the pipe to the front. That baffle is a great idea!
Thanks! It really helps.
Good idea! If you travel heavier and use a stove fan I position it so it blows towards the pipe to extract heat off of the pipe. Most pictures show a fan the opposite direction where more heat is wasted going up the pipe.
Thanks! Good input, those stove fans help a lot.
Yes! great tip! I wish more companies provided baffles. There are certain TH-cam's who have said baffles aren't even necessary... This video made me a subscriber.
Yeah, I believe the baffle is a big help. Not only to conserve heat but to prolong the life of other stove parts. I would rather replaced a 12 inch section of titanium foil than a 8 foot long piece.
That's really interesting. I have a Luxe 3W, have to try this.
Not only does it improve efficiency, it saves the top of your stove from all that abuse. My baffle has lasted several years, but now has holes in it and is brittle. Imagine if that were the top of your stove.
That is great idea to turn the stove top around 180 degrees. I believe the stove for those Bereg Russian UP-2 type tents also has the stove pipe coming out the front of the stove and also has a baffle. That configuration certainly does push the stove body back away from the center of the tent and gives more usable space.
Thanks! Yeah I have seen those Russian stoves too, it may have been where I got this idea from. But I don't remember, It was a while ago.
Thanks for making this video! I just got a luxe hexpeak 2p and the wild wild west stove and the space at the door is super tight when using the inner mesh, so much so that I was regretting the size of the tent. I was considering moving the pipe to the front because of all the wasted space but wasn't sure it would work...your baffle solution is perfect!
No problem. I'm glad this video actually helps!
That is a great idea. Thanks for the video! I was wondering though if having the flue in the back of the stove with the baffle would be just as efficient? Which do you think is better? And if the flue is at the back, how do you place the baffle? To the front or to the back?
Thanks! I think the flue in the front is marginally better. The fire is fed oxygen from the front and then has to burn back, allowing for a more dispersed burn. Distributing heat more efficiently. If you do set it up with the flue in the rear, just slide the baffle back to cove the exhaust pipe. The main thing is to prevent the fire and heat from going straight up the pipe.
The primary air coming in the door will dictate how the burn occurs toward the output, that is why one end to the other end. [edit], good idea with the baffle shuffling heat and smoke from front to back to front.
Thanks!
Absolutely outstanding! I need to do this with Nortent Titanium wood stove
It's a good upgrade to make, that's for sure.
Had the same idea you best me to it !! Looks great and seems to work 👍
Great minds think alike!
Great ideas 👍🏽
Thanks!
I've been pondering on a thermal vermiculite board, yup it is expensive but put under the stove it would reflect up and equally reflect the cold beneath it. If you got a 1000mmm x 600mm you could cut it in half use half as board to sit on.
Should help prevent the stove from sinking due to snow melt! Let me know how it works out for you.
Damn that’s an awesome idea! I consider a stove without a baffle a deal breaker, even more it’s a deal breaker if it doesn’t have replaceable baffles as an accessory.
You rigged that stove to resemble the design of RBM Caminus stoves. They have it setup the same way, stove pipe exit is in front instead of back, and baffle plate positioned like yours so that it both reflects heat back into the fire for reburning, and makes the heat have to maneuver around the baffle plate before going up and out of the flue. I would love the Caminus stoves if only the damn baffle wasn’t fixed, and if you could easily swap them out with replacements.
Thanks. I agree, having a replaceable baffle is a must. It's a consumable part. I will say that the titanium foil lasted a while, it just recently fell apart. I actually need to replace it before this winter. It's cheap too!
@@SFARCO curious where you're sourcing the titanium aside from cutting up the stove pipe? I think I can get away with cutting my first one but then from there I'd like to know there's a place to get more. Suppose I could just buy a replacement stove pipe from the stove manufacturer, but I feel like that's going to be marked up.
@Jesse Dufresne You can buy stove parts including sections of titanium foil from liteoutdoors.com. I believe you can buy a 1 ft x 1ft section for very reasonable price. They are located in Canada.
@@SFARCO crazy how much time I spent on Amazon and obscure metal sites, this is just what I needed, thank you!
@@jdufresn75 No problem, happy to help!
awesome tips. I just got this stove today and plan on cutting myself a baffle as you;'ve done. Any tips on what to cut the baffle with ? or how to get a good fold on the foil once cut. Thanks!
Thanks! I actually just used a good pair of scissors to cut it. I folded it on the stove make sure the folds were positioned correctly. However you may need to remove the baffle from stove to crease each fold a little better. Other than that it's pretty simple and straightforward.
Wow! What a great idea.
Thanks!
Awesome idea! How far down does your baffle dip into the firebox? How much consideration do you think that sizing needs? I’m going to do this to my stove as soon as it arrives! Thanks for sharing!!
It hangs down about an inch or 25mm, so not far. It doesn't even hang down past the top of the door. Honestly there is probably a lot of wiggle room on size, just as long as you aren't restricting air flow. Hope you enjoy your stove!
Nice man... dig it.... Your design already creating thoughts of potential lightweight dual combustion chamber type ideas... modifications to your innovation... Create even more retained heat and cleaner burning pack stoves... (possibly?)... You're pretty nearly there would think.... (And that just as is the spawning nature of all creative thought processes and innovation, that of themselves, and their existence, tend to lend themselves to doing....)
Thanks, I will keep refining it!
very clever, thanks
Thanks, happy to share!
Great innovation. I'd like to see that stove burning with the baffle in place.
Thanks! Yeah I wanted to add some footage of it in both configurations to show the difference but things have been a little crazy lately and wanted to get this info out there. I'll probably add a comparison video later, but in the mean time my 40MPH Winds video and Mud Lake videos show the Winnerwell in use in this configuration. And my DIY Hot Tent video shows the LiteOutdoors Titanium stove in this configuration as well.
What black material on the ground is the stove sitting on?
Very cool feature... i’m gonna try this out 😃 Thanks a lot 🏕🔥
@@PerfDayToday Winnerwell sells a fireproof black, thick tarp like piece of material on their website. I think they include it with the stove.
@@PerfDayToday So sorry for such a late response. TH-cam doesn't notify me of replies all the time, and I just now saw your question. That is a grill mat from Amazon. They are cheap, I have even used it as stove jack material.
very cool! how much does this extend the burn time? (How long was your overnight burn before vs with baffle?) thx
That is a hard question to answer because there are many variables, like outside temps, quality of wood, how well your other gear keeps in heat, etc. But I will say this, the baffle prevents your heat from escaping straight up and out your pipe. This will allow for a more efficient burn as well, so you should be warmer and then you can slow the burn rate using your flue.
The dog is so cool he is really curious about your inventions.
Do you have a video where you can see when you fire it?
How much wood can be saved?
He is a great dog! Very loyal and friendly. There are a lot of variables to how much wood it saves, so I wouldn't be able to give you an exact answer. But because you are preventing a lot of heat from escaping out you pipe, you can dampen your fire down and extend your burn time significantly. Also the baffle extends the life of your stove. My original baffle now needs replacing because it is brittle and cracking. Imagine if that was happening to the top of your stove.
Oh and pretty much all my hot tent videos show the stove working with the baffle at some point in the video.
Great tips, thanks man.
No problem, happy to help!
Excellent! Do you have more smoke in your tent when you start the fire (with your baffle and stack front position)? Once it is hot, I guess that everything is alright...
No actually it helps get a draft going faster because you are heating a pocket of air right under the pipe. Which then draws more fresh air in feeding the fire and pulling any smoke up and out. You might have some smoke at first but it is usually less and is gone faster!
I was watchin a few guys they set it up with chimney in front for more even cooking.
That is yet another benefit, I forget to mention that one. Thanks!
The best way to keep heat is to prevent cold air to enter. The stove not only does that by its fire-draw but also sucks the air it just heated around itself 🧐
So I would have above all set an air intake with a pipe from outside of the tent to the back of the stove. Then fully pushed the metal plate at the back and just kept the outake as well at the back. Thanks for the video, greetings from Switzerland 🙂
Thanks for the input. But there is nothing wrong with some fresh air. You need it to breath, and it will reduce condensation build up, which is key.
@@SFARCO Of course fresh air is needed to breath. What's not is the amount to apply the fire.
It creates enough draw to keep humidity down and keeps the air Fresh.
Nice mode
Thanks!
Thanks for the video. I run the Winnerwell Nomad Medium and am considering having a baffle fabricated for my stove. I've taken heat measurements of my stove pipe and I feel like I'm losing a lot of heat right up the pipe with some inefficient burning. Would you advise that I make one that's removable and have them fabricate a bracket for a titanium or 304 stainless baffle to be inserted? I'm not sure what to do...either way it would just be a couple of welds.
I would say have a removable baffle plate so it can be replaced easily when it wears out.
@@SFARCO Appreciate the advice. Thank you!
@@jpg901c No problem!
@@SFARCO You're the second person who said make it removable...and like you said, if it's removable, it's replaceable. My firebox is 8"x15" or 20.32cm x 38.1 cm...so how big should I go? I'm thinking 8" x 10" with 2" of top relief.
8x10 sounds good. The gap between the stove top and baffle doesn't need to be 2 inches. Mine is only about a half inch. Probably don't need more than and inch. Seems small but it's 8 inches wide. This way you don't sacrifice as much space for wood.
That baffle makes that tin box more like the sort of modern stove that would be in a house. I just bought a non-collapsible stove and I suspect that I’m going to need to fit a baffle to that.
Yeah that is what I was trying to replicate. I will make a big difference if you make one.
@@SFARCO - I’m just having the first burn on my new stove and I definitely think it’ll need a baffle fitted.
Would you be able to give dimensions of your baffle piece (and distance of gap from top edge of side of stove down to baffle) to help me cut mine? I only get one shot, if I screw it up, I don't have a bunch more chimney to cut up. And how di you make those crimps so it "snaps" down onto top of sides? Do you have a sheetmetal crimper?
Also, have you continued to use this stove? How's it holding up?
Thanks for the time, and for letting people know about these great improvements.
Still using the stove and it's going strong. The baffle takes a lot of the abuse, prolonging the life of the stove and pipe. As far as the crimp, I just folded it by hand. It's easy to do. If you shoot me an email at sfarcotube@gmail.com then I can send you a draw up with measurements.
Good ideas! Does it smoke much out the door set up that way?
Thanks! Once the stove is hot, it has enough updraft that you don't really have any smoke coming out the door. As long as you have the flue mostly open when you open the door you shouldn't have an issue and will see the flames being sucked toward the back of the stove.
Perfect
Glad you like, hope it helps!
great ideas
Thanks!
This is how a lot of modern, high efficiency home stoves do baffling. Always seems like a shame to push all the heat outside. I did a baffle plate on my non-folding stove but I also just bought a stove pipe damper. Will see how both perform.
Nice, it should help a lot!
I riveted in a baffle in my Kni-co stove. Ive noticed alot if creosote on top the baffle if i run the stove damped down. Do you think this burns off ok the next time I run it? Do ypu notice more creosote build up at all?
I don't have any build up on the baffle.
This could have to do with what type of wood you’re burning. I’ve noticed that burning seasoned oak, hickory, or mesquite woods leave no creosote in mine. However times when I had to use some softer woods, creosote was more prevalent when damper was used.
My last trip a few weekends ago it was around 5° (f) outside and I had a few oak chunks as large as would fit with the flue half closed and all vents shut just shy of fully closed and it smoldered all night like that (midnight till 5:00am) and there was no creosote or soot buildup in my pipe or on the windows of the stove.
Great tip! I am thinking of doing it myself.
But not sure. Since I will have the flue at the back of the stove, would it still make sense to have a baffle?
Thank you, it will definitely help with the flue in the rear. Although this design makes it possible to run your stove with the flue in the front, it is not the only purpose. It will still help redistribute heat, keeping more heat in your tent instead of up and out, making it burn more efficiently and conserving heat. Also it will help reduce the amount of sparks that come out of your stove pipe that could potentially damage your tent. Hope this helps!
@@SFARCO cool cool!
I just made one. :) didn't need such a long flue anyway. Easy to fold. Sits perfect. :)
Awesome! It really helps.
Might sound like a silly question but what did you use to cut the baffle from your stove pipe to get clean and straight edges? I think this is a great idea but the only thing I can think of is the shears I have for duct work but those leave a very small serrated edge after cutting.
Just a good sharp pair or normal scissors. It cuts easy.
@@SFARCO thanks!!
With a grate, a baffle and a damper, all that's missing is secondary burn.
That would be perfect.
The flue pipe at the back of the stove for a more efficient burn.
Normally, yes that is the best. But with the baffle added to the stove it makes it possible to have the flue at the front of the stove without sacrificing efficiency.
You think this stove is proper for a Tentipi 7?! I plan to take this combo...
That's a little bigger than my tent but not too much so I think you will be good.
I have a jack with a 3.5-inch diameter hole, but my pipe is 2.5 in diameter. Is there a way to fix this after-the-fact?
Try using guy lines to stabilize your pipe. Most of my stove jacks aren't a perfect fit.
You can probably fill the gap with a bit of welders’ blanket or fibreglass fabric.
Both of those things fray pretty badly, so before you cut it out, I would definitely take a bit of masking tape and put right over the spots where you’re planning to cut it off the main blanket, and then use whatever adhesive you’re going to use that heat proof, to fold the edges over and hold them in place. That way it shouldn’t fray out on you.❤
Your baffle principle is called a reverse flow and it is how some professional BBQ smokers work.
Good to know, thanks for the input.
SFARCO: Your Innoovative Idea is Intersting. However, i am concerned about the possibility of Carbon Monoxide Poisoning that can be caused by breathing in Combustion Fumes within the confines of a tent. As you know, the fumes can be colourless, odourless and deadly. Have you used a carbon monoxide detectour to test the air quality within the tent, when burning the stove over an extended period of time ?
Definitely! I bring a CO alarm with me everytime. I have never had it go off, and as long as you know how to properly adjust your flue and damper and have a good burn going you shouldn't have an issue. The reason is that the fire should be creating a draft that pulls the hot air up and out while bringing fresh air in, this will also pull fresh air from outside into your tent. Hope this helps!
@@SFARCO Thanks for your speedy reply. That sounds great. When i am ready to use my stove i will set it up in the normal way but will definitely test this technique at somepoint. Cheers !
Great setup buddy, I have a Russian titanium spark arrestor or smoke stack robber for the chimney pipe. I think it's the most essential thing for these TI stoves. If you're interested in my video feel free to check it out.
Thanks! I'll definitely check out your video. I agree, spark arrestors are a good idea.
@@SFARCO here you go bud keep the awesome content coming!!
Watch "Seek outside stove long term review "Polish Lavvu hot tent"" on TH-cam
th-cam.com/video/IekEZVFxhnw/w-d-xo.html
Does titanium cut easily with a regular tin snip?
You can cut the titanium foil easily with normal scissors. Don't even need tin snips.
Hi!
How big is the baffle gap? Was the baffle material burnt in prior to this mod? I have approx. 90cm of pipe that I cut of, but this is burnt in, so it keeps it shape as a pipe...
The gap at the back is roughly 2-2.5 inches, and the gap from the stove top to baffle is roughly .5 -.75 inch. Mine was not burnt in prior to, but if you roll that section up in the reverse direction it should loosen up the titanium enough to make it. I store mine rolled up and have to loosen it a bit before each use so I don't think it will be an issue for you.
Thanks!👍
No problem.
Great video. New subscribers here. Let's stay connected.
Thanks, you have a nice channel! Staying connected sounds good.
This didnt work for me, got smoke inside the tent when opening the hatch.. think i cut the baffle too short so i didnt have a good gap, only about 1-2cm gap, you mentioned 2.5cm which seems better but still i wouldnt risk this, but even if i keep the pipe in the back it will still be better with a baffle so its not completly useless :)
True you don't want too small of gap, but also you must completely open your flue before opening your door. That is good practice with or without a baffle. This will allow enough flow to carry the smoke out instead of in.
@@SFARCO so i tried it again with a bigger gap, worked well, but because the fire goes around the back i got creosote/black stuff ozing out from the back top side, so i switched around to have pipe in back and that works the best but then i can get this crazy draft which makes the whole thing so red it feels like its gonna explode, and keeping the vent and flue/damper closed only makes it worse.. Although its nice with all the heat that is retained i still prefer your way of having it in the front as it seems its easier to control the fire without having that insane draft going. Maybe i didnt keep the flue open enough ans thats why the creosote ozed out the back?
@@drivingbro That's odd, are you sure you don't have an air gap somewhere?
@@SFARCO the winnerwell fastfold has alot of small airgaps every where
@@drivingbro I know but any that seem larger than the rest?
Nice 👌
Thanks!
My titanium wood stove got so hot it started glowing, i got kinda worried that it was going to melt
They can glow pretty bright. I would close the flue a bit to dampen the fire. That way, you aren't burning through your wood so fast.
The winnerwell folding titanium stove is $700 CAD. Absolutely ridiculous. Build your own for $40 with materials from Home Depot. Smh 🤦♂️
Two issues I see with these little lightweight stoves that are sold without baffles. First, the guys who are spending the big bucks for these stoves are not the guys who are going to be making their own stove baffles lol. 🤣
Second, all lightweight fold up backpacking stoves, titanium or not, warp bad after the first few uses. The warping opens up air gaps all over so they are not air tight. Dampers only work if you have an air tight stove. This means these stoves will burn hot and fast no matter what your damper settings are with most of the heat being lost in the pipe as the draft sucks it right out of the tent.
The other thing is that titanium stoves are made of titanium which is a *poor* conductor of heat. So in the worst case, after you spend $700 on one of these fold down titanium beauties without a baffle and use it a few times you end up with a warped leaky box that will burn hot and fast with most of the heat being lost up the pipe no matter what your damper setting is so it’s going to take you an hour or so and half a cord of firewood to boil water on them in your 500 ml steel cup for your coffee.
Wow, sounds like you have a lot of experience with these types of stoves. How many have you used?
1...I have only just bought my latest Titanium stove, I bought a Pomoly T-Brick, I looked at the Winnerwells and they are NOT $700 CAD. smh
2...You do not need a baffle, although mine has one, as do other makes. 🤣
3... All lightweight fold up backpacking stoves, titanium or not, do NOT warp bad after the first few uses. Some warp a bit but it doesn't affect their usability or safety. The last thing you want is an air tight stove ! ! Not being air tight will not render the damper useless, and it will stop most of the heat escaping through the chimney.
4..Pure drivel. Some of the cheaper ones may end up overly warped, but still not a problem as many of these stove users know from experience.
5...Its obvious you can't afford one and you're bitter about it, or you bought a real cheapo and its let you down. Either way you suffer from the Dunning-Kruger effect.
If you let it loose, you will lose it.
Hmm, that's deep. Lol. I'm not sure what you are referring to.