I have used a woodstove in tents for 50 years. I agree with you on no night fire. Our beetle kill wood here in the Rockies really cerostes a 3 inch pipe fast.. I have to clean my titanium pipe everyday. Thanks for the video.
Hot tip- carbon monoxide is lighter than air, not heavier. More over it is coming out of the stove heated and will rise not fall. if you're putting your CO detector on the floor you are guaranteeing to get the maximum amount of Carbon monoxide in your tent before the detector goes off.
I have a winnerwell large stove in the cabelas ultimate alaknak tent with all vents/windows open . No visible leaks in the stove but for some reason my carbon monoxide alarm keeps going off reading anywhere between 30-70 ppm ?
I don’t know what kind of wood you burn to get that much build up but I don’t get near that in a week and I grew up with wood stoves in the house and never had a problem I do use a detector in my tent but it has never went off and I burn a fire all night
Pine will create a huge amount of creosote from water and sap withheld. I know out west that’s pretty all they have in some forests. Is what it is in some situations.
I have a winnerwell large stove in the cabelas ultimate alaknak tent with all vents/windows open . No visible leaks in the stove but for some reason my carbon monoxide alarm keeps going off reading anywhere between 30-70 ppm ?
Are people finding the CO meters for houses, businesses and other purposes working right for camping? I have been wondering if some are more suited for tent camping with a hot stove than others? And if some could misfire just from being close proximity to a wood stove?
I try to use seasoned hard oak wood with little moisture. Lots of BTU's, Dense, Heavy, Long burning. Creosote from pitch one can get from Evergreens will plug up flues fast. Any moist wood will build up to some degree.
I have a winnerwell large stove in the cabelas ultimate alaknak tent with all vents/windows open . No visible leaks in the stove but for some reason my carbon monoxide alarm keeps going off reading anywhere between 30-70 ppm ?
When I ordered my tent stove I went out and bought a combined C02 Detector and Smoke Alarm because I would not ever consider running a stove in my tent without at least one of these devices. I'm thinking of buying another C02 Detector (a keyring type) to put next to my pillow, so I have one high and the other low, for complete coverage. Whilst this might be considered overkill, I have survived C02 poisoning from a living room gas heater and am aware of the danger, especially in a small tent in winter.
I have a winnerwell large stove in the cabelas ultimate alaknak tent with all vents/windows open . No visible leaks in the stove but for some reason my carbon monoxide alarm keeps going off reading anywhere between 30-70 ppm ?
I have a guide gear "tent stove" in my 10*10 shed I call a house. I have only used it for about 3 months. I had no clue these smaller stoves needed cleaned this often. I have had problems with mine starting yesterday morning. Hard to keep lit and it smokes me out as soon as the door is cracked. Tomorrow I will have to take a look what's going on in there. After watching this I feel like it's probably closed right up
I'm considering a pellet stove . Hardwood (oak, maple, ash) = less smoke, ash, and creosol because of the cleaner burn. Also it has a a longer burn time which could be up to 10 hours on a low feed Also the higher your stove the higher the frost line
I bought 1/2 inch screen mesh and cut to fit into one of those top hats. So that is my spark arrester. But I have a different hut-tent set-up. So I just surround the stove with bricks and a 4 gallon pot of water and do a fast burn without shutting down the vent at all (and no damper). So that minimizes creosote. thanks for the info.
@@the1stime water has the best thermal mass for storing heat - better than clay or cob. So when the water heats up to a simmer - before it steams off as evaporation - then it dissipates heat for a few hours.
Great tip! I have a “permanent” 16’ x 16’ yurt/bell tent set up for 4 season camping. This is my first year and I’m trying to figure out the best winter setup. I’m not concerned with travel weight, etc. Any tips to improve heat throughout the night? I have plenty of bricks and will use the water idea…is there anything else that might help? Do you heat the water on top of the stove then set it to the side? Or leave it on top as the fire dies down? Sorry for the confusion, I’m a green horn lol
@@the1stime I have no idea as I only "occasionally" winter camp. You might try the book "Paradise below zero" on archive. Someone mentioned they cut an air hole right by the wood stove - through the wood floor - so the tent could be insulated but the stove had air. The hole was covered with stove pipe or sheet metal - and just hooked up to the wood stove for air. Not sure how they did it though but I do know insulation is keep to maintaining the heat levels. When I winter camp I just use a Wiggy's Arctic sleeping bag so at least my body is well insulated with also plenty of room as they are not mummy bags. I keep the pot of water on top of the wood stove - and since it's four gallons or more - it is very heavy when full. I don't mess with it. Eventually the water evaporates though. So I just get a luke warm heat off that pot of water but I have a lot of open air in my hut. I would rather make sure I'm getting enough oxygen and clearing out any smoke and just be cold.
On my boat, I cleaned the stove cap often and tapped the pipe with a stick at least weekly. I could hear any accumulated creosote buildup falling into the fire box. I like that an enclosed fire keeps water vapor, as well as carbon monoxide, out of the cabin when I'm trying to dry things.
I have a winnerwell large stove in the cabelas ultimate alaknak tent with all vents/windows open . No visible leaks in the stove but for some reason my carbon monoxide alarm keeps going off reading anywhere between 30-70 ppm ?
That's not cool. Is your stove pipe clear? Does the decector go off when the stove is running hot or just when you first light your fire? Might need a few minutes to start drafting properly. I would be concerned if you have elevenated levels of CO while the stove is fully fired up and running. Another commenter offered up some some advice that might be relevant to your situation: "CO is marginally lighter than air. But its heat will have a greater rising effect than its molecular weight because it is WARMER than the surrounding space; it will mix with the air. There is no such thing as a CO layer or stratification of the gases as some people believe, merely a higher concentration. Most detectors are set for 30 ppm for an audible warning yet the dangerous level is actually 150 ppm so you have plenty of margin. In normal operation it is extremely unlikely to indicate any CO; you would need a down draft situation for an extended period (hours) to be in any danger."
I’ve lived with a wood stove all my life and now camp with the sibly 5m protec and frontier + stove, I definitely stoke the fire at night and crack two windows for some ventilation we also use a co2 detector as a warning but with countless nights in our tent it’s never gone off!!
I also run a woodstove both at home and in the field. Never had a CO problem either. If you're the kind of person with the awareness and foresight to mitigate the danger you'll likely never wake up to the alarm. Thanks for sharing and happy camping!
I have a winnerwell large stove in the cabelas ultimate alaknak tent with all vents/windows open . No visible leaks in the stove but for some reason my carbon monoxide alarm keeps going off reading anywhere between 30-70 ppm ?
100% DO NOT PUT CO DETECTOR ON FLOOR! it needs to be waist and head height. otherwise your warning will come too late. not sure why this wasn’t mentioned and REALLY disappointed it wasn’t even corrected in the comments by OP.
Thanks for pointing it out! Added a note to the video as follows: "You should place your CO detector waist high. I mentioned I keep mine on the floor in this video because in practice that's where it ends up. In the future I will recommend zip-tying it to the center pole."
I have a winnerwell large stove in the cabelas ultimate alaknak tent with all vents/windows open . No visible leaks in the stove but for some reason my carbon monoxide alarm keeps going off reading anywhere between 30-70 ppm ?
how do you go with embers flying out of the chimmney and landing on the tent ? is that a problem ? i have just bought my first bell tent with a cheap camp stove oven - it is not air tight in the tent and lets alot of smelly smoke in the tent and the embers were falling on the roof a little which was a bit of a worry
This is a huge problem and a safety issue. Check out Tent Stove Mistakes on our blog: www.canvascamp.com/en_us/blog/tent-stove-buyers-guide/tent-stove-mistakes Advice: 1.) Use dry hard wood 2.) a solid spark arrestor 3.) don't over-fuel or over-fire your stove 4.) keep it clean! If you're still experiencing sparks and smoke - get rid of that tent stove all together.
@@CanvascampHeadOffice I have a wood stove for my tent. It has legs but I wanted a little more protection under it from possibly burning the floor. I was thinking about stone with a fire proof cover on it. I was also thinking about a quilt rack behind it with a welders blanket from harbor freight to protect the canvas wall. Thank you for the info! 😊
CO is marginally lighter than air. But its heat will have a greater rising effect than its molecular weight because it is WARMER than the surrounding space; it will mix with the air. There is no such thing as a CO layer or stratification of the gases as some people believe, merely a higher concentration. Most detectors are set for 30 ppm for an audible warning yet the dangerous level is actually 150 ppm so you have plenty of margin. In normal operation it is extremely unlikely to indicate any CO; you would need a down draft situation for an extended period (hours) to be in any danger.
Hello, I have a winnerwell woodlander medium stove. I used it for the first time and I ran it for about 16 hours. I had the pipe damper about half way shut and the front damper sl most closed so it was running a very small flame. My question is in the morning I had creosote that had dripped on mu tent outside and the pipe sections were glued together with creosote. Is this normal? I had to heat the Pipe sections up when I got home to seperate them. I was burning dry, seasoned ash and I thought I was burning the stove properly. Winnerwell says that if you have smoke coming out of your chimney you are not burning the stove properly but it seems that in order for me to not have smoke I would have to open the pipe damper almost all the way and open front damper so the stove would be burning super hot. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
I would agree with Winnerwell on aiming for a (nearly) smoke free end result. I would suggest starting the stove and bringing it all the way up to a ripping hot temperature, then reducing the air intake on the front first, and only then experimenting with the flue damper if you are super committed to achieving a ultra lower smolder. I am personally not a big fan of flue pipe dampers on most small single walled tent stoves -- I find them to be more of a nuisance than a performance booster. These things perform best when they're running hot. Sounds like you have good wood, but even if you were using garbage wood you shouldn't have the issue you are describing. I recently field tested a Winnerwell and was very impressed with it, it is very similar to the GStove. I did have to burn it for an extremely long time at high temperatures to season it properly (2 separate 4 hour sessions).
That's the correct way to run a woodstove ...but You will have to burn it out every morning.... These stove manufactures are trying to prevent creosote buildup and chances of Fire in a flue pipe. I'd rather be warm all night with creosote on My Tent then waking up cold n stiff . That's just Me ..
@@backpackertoo I have always choked My stoves down at night. Burn oak, or locust or other dry Hardwoods .make sure you have a CO detector! . The problem with these stoves us ,they are not air tight!! Probably purposely built so they won't snuff down, stopping many fires,and lawsuits... Be safe God Bless
I have a winnerwell large stove in the cabelas ultimate alaknak tent with all vents/windows open . No visible leaks in the stove but for some reason my carbon monoxide alarm keeps going off reading anywhere between 30-70 ppm ?
@@tonyinfinity ??? Where did you get that idea? The video mentions a $4 detector, I suggested a $40 detector is the correct price. FYI, I do have a detector and it hasn't registered a pip while in use.
Creosote us usually caused by either unseasoned/wet wood or running the stove too cold (dampering down to save wood). There are 2 kinds of creosote - a soft fluffy kind and the very difficult hard to remove kind. What makes the hard to remove kind is a hot fire after you have a build up of the soft creosote. It forms a sort of hard glaze inside the pipe. Always try to use a well seasoned dry hardwood.
I have a winnerwell large stove in the cabelas ultimate alaknak tent with all vents/windows open . No visible leaks in the stove but for some reason my carbon monoxide alarm keeps going off reading anywhere between 30-70 ppm ?
@@nicholasgiard4532 I suspect a leak around the door seal. Start a smoky fire then close the flue damper. Look for smoke leaking. They make smoke bombs to test for chimney obstructions. See if you can get some of those and use them. Inspect your flue for obstructions. Especially around the flue cap if you have one (coolest part of the flue). It is possible you have a bad CO detector too or bad batteries in it.
CARBON MONOXIDE POISONING has nothing to do with the oxygen content in air. Its a misconception that you suffocate from a lack of oxygen in the air around you. You suffocate from lack of oxygen in your blood. Carbon monoxide blocks your blood from taking up oxygen. It doesnt matter if you breath 95%oxygen and 5% carbonmonoxide - your going to die. Hence the expression: poisoning. You will NOT have suffocation symptoms because your body can still get rid of its carbonDIoxide, which will give you symptoms only if it builds up too high in your body. In regular air a content of 250partspermillion carbonMONOxide particles are enough to kill you. Thats an air mixture with only 0.2% carbonmonoxide. If you dont understand this you should not give people advice about it lady!
I thought carbon monoxide was lighter than air so you really want your detector off the floor, I hang mine from the top of my centre pole, right above the stove
You are correct. You should place your CO detector waist high. I mentioned I keep mine on the floor in this video because in practice that's where it ends up. In the future I will recommend zip-tying it to the center pole.
Carbon monoxide poisoning is a result of high levels of carbon monoxide gas. Carbon monoxide is produced when there is incomplete combustion, which is often cause by a lack of enough oxygen during burning. This is why there is no risk of CO poisoning while standing around an open air camp fire but a high risk when burning in a confined space like a stove and tent. Also carbon monoxide mixes evenly with air and should be placed at the same height as your head while you sleep.
Changing the spark arrester to a top hat? Reducing the risk of carbonmonoxide poisoning but increasing the risk of getting burned to death and burn the nature around you. Not a good idea! Get a proper spark arrester and inspect it EVERY day and clean it when needed.
I have a winnerwell large stove in the cabelas ultimate alaknak tent with all vents/windows open . No visible leaks in the stove but for some reason my carbon monoxide alarm keeps going off reading anywhere between 30-70 ppm ?
If you have that much creosote, your not firing your stove up hot enough. When you first fire up the stove the dampers should be wide open until that draw crackles. Thats how you keep your pipe clean, and you should likely tunk the pipe after it cools down to loosen any. If you have any draw at all in the room you should never have any carbon monoxide build up ever. It's common sense not rocket science. I have had a cast iron 1846 Midget Number 8 in my 1969 vintage 13 foot camper for over 50 years. Heat with it, cook with it..In my 70's and it still baffles me how todays generation still lacks common sense..And always use seasoned or at least completely dried hard wood.. I have always slept with my stove on, especially at 5 below. Your stove should never have smoke or creosote buildup if you know how to use one. Just clean the pipe yearly.
We disagree Karen. Cast iron stoves perform differently than stainless steel stoves. Campers insulate and ventilate differently than canvas tents. 2 1/4" flue pipes choke up faster than 3 5/8" flue pipes. Cleaning and inspecting a tent stove flue pipe is easy and takes less than a minute - there is no downside to doing it frequently.
I have a winnerwell large stove in the cabelas ultimate alaknak tent with all vents/windows open . No visible leaks in the stove but for some reason my carbon monoxide alarm keeps going off reading anywhere between 30-70 ppm ?
@@CanvascampHeadOffice Then you dont know what your talking about, it doesn't matter what size stove or pipe, when they are burning properly they all perform the exact same way. It doesn't matter if the stove is steel, aluminum or cast iron. The only difference in the material is how well they maintain the heat. If your camping and using GREEN wood it doesnt matter how well your tent, camper or lean to is insulated, Green wood is going to smoke and NOT give you a good hot draw. I have lived many times in a sheep herders tent. a Quonset Hut a 6 ft cabin and my UN Insulated aluminum camper, all with steel, thin metal or cast iron stoves. As with the majority of people like me that live in the bush here in Alaska we only have a wood stove for heating and cooking. I couldnt tell you how many want to be Alaskans from the Lower 48 die here each year because they don't know how to run and maintain a wood stove properly or even know the right wood to burn. Most die of smoke inhalation or burn themselves down. I am in my 70's and have only cooked and heated with wood my entire life. So dont try and say I know other wise.
@@nicholasgiard4532 You shouldn't have to leave your windows open to ventilate. If your stove is properly hooked up their should be no leaks at all for your alarm to go off. If your getting monoxide inside the tent then you are not getting enough draw. YOur flu should be at least 14" above the roof line, anything lower and your more apt to have a bad draw. Make sure you have a damper on the pipe as well as the stove. On just the stove wont give you the best draw. Look for any soot build up where the pipes join, that is usually a sign of blow back down the pipe because it isn't getting enough draw or the fire is not burning hot enough to create a good draw when the stove is first fired up.
You shouldn't be putting safety tips out if you're not qualified. This is a life and death topic and a viewer or viewers may assume you're qualified, follow your tips and then DIE!. Are you even qualified?
I have used a woodstove in tents for 50 years. I agree with you on no night fire. Our beetle kill wood here in the Rockies really cerostes a 3 inch pipe fast.. I have to clean my titanium pipe everyday. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for your advices ! Great information you provided there!
Hot tip- carbon monoxide is lighter than air, not heavier. More over it is coming out of the stove heated and will rise not fall. if you're putting your CO detector on the floor you are guaranteeing to get the maximum amount of Carbon monoxide in your tent before the detector goes off.
I would suggest Canvas Camp redo this video with some proper advice on the Carbon Monoxide detector placement. Could be life and death.
I have a winnerwell large stove in the cabelas ultimate alaknak tent with all vents/windows open . No visible leaks in the stove but for some reason my carbon monoxide alarm keeps going off reading anywhere between 30-70 ppm ?
I don’t know what kind of wood you burn to get that much build up but I don’t get near that in a week and I grew up with wood stoves in the house and never had a problem I do use a detector in my tent but it has never went off and I burn a fire all night
Lodge pole pine dried out for a year!
Pine will create a huge amount of creosote from water and sap withheld. I know out west that’s pretty all they have in some forests. Is what it is in some situations.
Do you have the same stove?
I have a winnerwell large stove in the cabelas ultimate alaknak tent with all vents/windows open . No visible leaks in the stove but for some reason my carbon monoxide alarm keeps going off reading anywhere between 30-70 ppm ?
Great explanation. Thank you!
Great video, thanks! Subscribed as well!
Are people finding the CO meters for houses, businesses and other purposes working right for camping? I have been wondering if some are more suited for tent camping with a hot stove than others? And if some could misfire just from being close proximity to a wood stove?
I try to use seasoned hard oak wood with little moisture. Lots of BTU's, Dense, Heavy, Long burning. Creosote from pitch one can get from Evergreens will plug up flues fast. Any moist wood will build up to some degree.
I have a winnerwell large stove in the cabelas ultimate alaknak tent with all vents/windows open . No visible leaks in the stove but for some reason my carbon monoxide alarm keeps going off reading anywhere between 30-70 ppm ?
When I ordered my tent stove I went out and bought a combined C02 Detector and Smoke Alarm because I would not ever consider running a stove in my tent without at least one of these devices.
I'm thinking of buying another C02 Detector (a keyring type) to put next to my pillow, so I have one high and the other low, for complete coverage.
Whilst this might be considered overkill, I have survived C02 poisoning from a living room gas heater and am aware of the danger, especially in a small tent in winter.
I support it. CO2 detectors are cheap and effective. It's a great idea to have two.
I have a winnerwell large stove in the cabelas ultimate alaknak tent with all vents/windows open . No visible leaks in the stove but for some reason my carbon monoxide alarm keeps going off reading anywhere between 30-70 ppm ?
@@nicholasgiard4532fixed the problem?
I have a guide gear "tent stove" in my 10*10 shed I call a house. I have only used it for about 3 months. I had no clue these smaller stoves needed cleaned this often. I have had problems with mine starting yesterday morning. Hard to keep lit and it smokes me out as soon as the door is cracked. Tomorrow I will have to take a look what's going on in there. After watching this I feel like it's probably closed right up
I'm considering a pellet stove . Hardwood (oak, maple, ash) = less smoke, ash, and creosol because of the cleaner burn. Also it has a a longer burn time which could be up to 10 hours on a low feed
Also the higher your stove the higher the frost line
What's the folding sofa you're sitting on called? 😃
I bought 1/2 inch screen mesh and cut to fit into one of those top hats. So that is my spark arrester. But I have a different hut-tent set-up. So I just surround the stove with bricks and a 4 gallon pot of water and do a fast burn without shutting down the vent at all (and no damper). So that minimizes creosote. thanks for the info.
Excellent tip! Kudos for the ingenuity and thanks for sharing!
What’s the water do?
@@the1stime water has the best thermal mass for storing heat - better than clay or cob. So when the water heats up to a simmer - before it steams off as evaporation - then it dissipates heat for a few hours.
Great tip! I have a “permanent” 16’ x 16’ yurt/bell tent set up for 4 season camping. This is my first year and I’m trying to figure out the best winter setup. I’m not concerned with travel weight, etc. Any tips to improve heat throughout the night? I have plenty of bricks and will use the water idea…is there anything else that might help? Do you heat the water on top of the stove then set it to the side? Or leave it on top as the fire dies down? Sorry for the confusion, I’m a green horn lol
@@the1stime I have no idea as I only "occasionally" winter camp. You might try the book "Paradise below zero" on archive. Someone mentioned they cut an air hole right by the wood stove - through the wood floor - so the tent could be insulated but the stove had air. The hole was covered with stove pipe or sheet metal - and just hooked up to the wood stove for air. Not sure how they did it though but I do know insulation is keep to maintaining the heat levels. When I winter camp I just use a Wiggy's Arctic sleeping bag so at least my body is well insulated with also plenty of room as they are not mummy bags. I keep the pot of water on top of the wood stove - and since it's four gallons or more - it is very heavy when full. I don't mess with it. Eventually the water evaporates though. So I just get a luke warm heat off that pot of water but I have a lot of open air in my hut. I would rather make sure I'm getting enough oxygen and clearing out any smoke and just be cold.
On my boat, I cleaned the stove cap often and tapped the pipe with a stick at least weekly.
I could hear any accumulated creosote buildup falling into the fire box.
I like that an enclosed fire keeps water vapor, as well as carbon monoxide, out of the cabin when I'm trying to dry things.
You have a woodstove on a boat?
Didnt know they still did that.
Sounds like youre using the boat for work?
Informative thank you.
What do you do if your tent stove is in a tiny home where do you recommend to clean it
Keep some type of air flow from outside crack the door, window or vent at all times never a worry.
Very informative , thank you. ATB
I have a winnerwell large stove in the cabelas ultimate alaknak tent with all vents/windows open . No visible leaks in the stove but for some reason my carbon monoxide alarm keeps going off reading anywhere between 30-70 ppm ?
That's not cool. Is your stove pipe clear? Does the decector go off when the stove is running hot or just when you first light your fire? Might need a few minutes to start drafting properly. I would be concerned if you have elevenated levels of CO while the stove is fully fired up and running. Another commenter offered up some some advice that might be relevant to your situation: "CO is marginally lighter than air. But its heat will have a greater rising effect than its molecular weight because it is WARMER than the surrounding space; it will mix with the air. There is no such thing as a CO layer or stratification of the gases as some people believe, merely a higher concentration. Most detectors are set for 30 ppm for an audible warning yet the dangerous level is actually 150 ppm so you have plenty of margin. In normal operation it is extremely unlikely to indicate any CO; you would need a down draft situation for an extended period (hours) to be in any danger."
Thank you!
I’ve lived with a wood stove all my life and now camp with the sibly 5m protec and frontier + stove, I definitely stoke the fire at night and crack two windows for some ventilation we also use a co2 detector as a warning but with countless nights in our tent it’s never gone off!!
I also run a woodstove both at home and in the field. Never had a CO problem either. If you're the kind of person with the awareness and foresight to mitigate the danger you'll likely never wake up to the alarm. Thanks for sharing and happy camping!
I have a winnerwell large stove in the cabelas ultimate alaknak tent with all vents/windows open . No visible leaks in the stove but for some reason my carbon monoxide alarm keeps going off reading anywhere between 30-70 ppm ?
100% DO NOT PUT CO DETECTOR ON FLOOR!
it needs to be waist and head height. otherwise your warning will come too late. not sure why this wasn’t mentioned and REALLY disappointed it wasn’t even corrected in the comments by OP.
Thanks for pointing it out! Added a note to the video as follows: "You should place your CO detector waist high. I mentioned I keep mine on the floor in this video because in practice that's where it ends up. In the future I will recommend zip-tying it to the center pole."
I have a winnerwell large stove in the cabelas ultimate alaknak tent with all vents/windows open . No visible leaks in the stove but for some reason my carbon monoxide alarm keeps going off reading anywhere between 30-70 ppm ?
how do you go with embers flying out of the chimmney and landing on the tent ? is that a problem ? i have just bought my first bell tent with a cheap camp stove oven - it is not air tight in the tent and lets alot of smelly smoke in the tent and the embers were falling on the roof a little which was a bit of a worry
This is a huge problem and a safety issue. Check out Tent Stove Mistakes on our blog: www.canvascamp.com/en_us/blog/tent-stove-buyers-guide/tent-stove-mistakes
Advice: 1.) Use dry hard wood 2.) a solid spark arrestor 3.) don't over-fuel or over-fire your stove 4.) keep it clean! If you're still experiencing sparks and smoke - get rid of that tent stove all together.
What kind of platform is your stove sitting on?
$3 Bluestone tile from the defective tile pile at Home Depot! Works like charm - also functions as a hot pot trivet.
@@CanvascampHeadOffice I have a wood stove for my tent. It has legs but I wanted a little more protection under it from possibly burning the floor. I was thinking about stone with a fire proof cover on it. I was also thinking about a quilt rack behind it with a welders blanket from harbor freight to protect the canvas wall. Thank you for the info! 😊
It’s not caused by the fire displacing the oxygen. It’s caused by the released gases from the burning process which is carbon monoxide.
CO is marginally lighter than air. But its heat will have a greater rising effect than its molecular weight because it is WARMER than the surrounding space; it will mix with the air. There is no such thing as a CO layer or stratification of the gases as some people believe, merely a higher concentration. Most detectors are set for 30 ppm for an audible warning yet the dangerous level is actually 150 ppm so you have plenty of margin. In normal operation it is extremely unlikely to indicate any CO; you would need a down draft situation for an extended period (hours) to be in any danger.
Excellent info here
Hello, I have a winnerwell woodlander medium stove. I used it for the first time and I ran it for about 16 hours. I had the pipe damper about half way shut and the front damper sl most closed so it was running a very small flame. My question is in the morning I had creosote that had dripped on mu tent outside and the pipe sections were glued together with creosote. Is this normal? I had to heat the Pipe sections up when I got home to seperate them. I was burning dry, seasoned ash and I thought I was burning the stove properly. Winnerwell says that if you have smoke coming out of your chimney you are not burning the stove properly but it seems that in order for me to not have smoke I would have to open the pipe damper almost all the way and open front damper so the stove would be burning super hot. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
I would agree with Winnerwell on aiming for a (nearly) smoke free end result. I would suggest starting the stove and bringing it all the way up to a ripping hot temperature, then reducing the air intake on the front first, and only then experimenting with the flue damper if you are super committed to achieving a ultra lower smolder.
I am personally not a big fan of flue pipe dampers on most small single walled tent stoves -- I find them to be more of a nuisance than a performance booster. These things perform best when they're running hot.
Sounds like you have good wood, but even if you were using garbage wood you shouldn't have the issue you are describing.
I recently field tested a Winnerwell and was very impressed with it, it is very similar to the GStove. I did have to burn it for an extremely long time at high temperatures to season it properly (2 separate 4 hour sessions).
That's the correct way to run a woodstove ...but You will have to burn it out every morning.... These stove manufactures are trying to prevent creosote buildup and chances of Fire in a flue pipe. I'd rather be warm all night with creosote on My Tent then waking up cold n stiff . That's just Me ..
@@kingsoutdoors4379 Thanks, I thought I was doing it right and I feel the same way. I turn it down and run it low and slow.
@@backpackertoo I have always choked My stoves down at night. Burn oak, or locust or other dry Hardwoods .make sure you have a CO detector! . The problem with these stoves us ,they are not air tight!! Probably purposely built so they won't snuff down, stopping many fires,and lawsuits... Be safe God Bless
Clean out the pipes every 2 days? Not sure many of us are up to that. Just shows about choosing a stove with the widest pipes
Off topic but what stove jack are you using in this video? I just ordered a sibley 500 pro and a gstove. Thanks
www.canvascamp.com/en_us/exit-i-mini-stove-jack
@@CanvascampHeadOffice will the exit 45 work also or is that too big? I kinda like the idea of the 45 degree angle
$4 for a CO detector... get real. One that actually works is closer to $40.
Yup i agree, about 36 bucks short, I wouldn't trust a 4 dollar CO detector
LOL OMG $40 isn't worth spending to save your life!
I have a winnerwell large stove in the cabelas ultimate alaknak tent with all vents/windows open . No visible leaks in the stove but for some reason my carbon monoxide alarm keeps going off reading anywhere between 30-70 ppm ?
@@nicholasgiard4532 Only thing I can think of is a downdraft. Are both the damper and the air inlet wide open or dampered down?
@@tonyinfinity ??? Where did you get that idea? The video mentions a $4 detector, I suggested a $40 detector is the correct price. FYI, I do have a detector and it hasn't registered a pip while in use.
Creosote us usually caused by either unseasoned/wet wood or running the stove too cold (dampering down to save wood).
There are 2 kinds of creosote - a soft fluffy kind and the very difficult hard to remove kind.
What makes the hard to remove kind is a hot fire after you have a build up of the soft creosote.
It forms a sort of hard glaze inside the pipe.
Always try to use a well seasoned dry hardwood.
On point crazy squirrel!
I have a winnerwell large stove in the cabelas ultimate alaknak tent with all vents/windows open . No visible leaks in the stove but for some reason my carbon monoxide alarm keeps going off reading anywhere between 30-70 ppm ?
@@nicholasgiard4532 I suspect a leak around the door seal.
Start a smoky fire then close the flue damper.
Look for smoke leaking.
They make smoke bombs to test for chimney obstructions. See if you can get some of those and use them.
Inspect your flue for obstructions.
Especially around the flue cap if you have one (coolest part of the flue).
It is possible you have a bad CO detector too or bad batteries in it.
CARBON MONOXIDE POISONING has nothing to do with the oxygen content in air. Its a misconception that you suffocate from a lack of oxygen in the air around you. You suffocate from lack of oxygen in your blood. Carbon monoxide blocks your blood from taking up oxygen. It doesnt matter if you breath 95%oxygen and 5% carbonmonoxide - your going to die. Hence the expression: poisoning.
You will NOT have suffocation symptoms because your body can still get rid of its carbonDIoxide, which will give you symptoms only if it builds up too high in your body.
In regular air a content of 250partspermillion carbonMONOxide particles are enough to kill you. Thats an air mixture with only 0.2% carbonmonoxide.
If you dont understand this you should not give people advice about it lady!
I thought carbon monoxide was lighter than air so you really want your detector off the floor, I hang mine from the top of my centre pole, right above the stove
You are correct.
You should place your CO detector waist high. I mentioned I keep mine on the floor in this video because in practice that's where it ends up. In the future I will recommend zip-tying it to the center pole.
Carbon monoxide poisoning is a result of high levels of carbon monoxide gas. Carbon monoxide is produced when there is incomplete combustion, which is often cause by a lack of enough oxygen during burning. This is why there is no risk of CO poisoning while standing around an open air camp fire but a high risk when burning in a confined space like a stove and tent. Also carbon monoxide mixes evenly with air and should be placed at the same height as your head while you sleep.
I burn at night while sleeping idc i wake up every hour or 2 anyway so i take the chance
Как все запущено
Changing the spark arrester to a top hat?
Reducing the risk of carbonmonoxide poisoning but increasing the risk of getting burned to death and burn the nature around you.
Not a good idea!
Get a proper spark arrester and inspect it EVERY day and clean it when needed.
100% correct. We now only ship and sell stoves with appropriate spark arrestors with at minimum 1/4" screens.
I have a winnerwell large stove in the cabelas ultimate alaknak tent with all vents/windows open . No visible leaks in the stove but for some reason my carbon monoxide alarm keeps going off reading anywhere between 30-70 ppm ?
in a tent!!! lol
If you have that much creosote, your not firing your stove up hot enough. When you first fire up the stove the dampers should be wide open until that draw crackles. Thats how you keep your pipe clean, and you should likely tunk the pipe after it cools down to loosen any. If you have any draw at all in the room you should never have any carbon monoxide build up ever. It's common sense not rocket science. I have had a cast iron 1846 Midget Number 8 in my 1969 vintage 13 foot camper for over 50 years. Heat with it, cook with it..In my 70's and it still baffles me how todays generation still lacks common sense..And always use seasoned or at least completely dried hard wood.. I have always slept with my stove on, especially at 5 below. Your stove should never have smoke or creosote buildup if you know how to use one. Just clean the pipe yearly.
We disagree Karen. Cast iron stoves perform differently than stainless steel stoves. Campers insulate and ventilate differently than canvas tents. 2 1/4" flue pipes choke up faster than 3 5/8" flue pipes. Cleaning and inspecting a tent stove flue pipe is easy and takes less than a minute - there is no downside to doing it frequently.
I have a winnerwell large stove in the cabelas ultimate alaknak tent with all vents/windows open . No visible leaks in the stove but for some reason my carbon monoxide alarm keeps going off reading anywhere between 30-70 ppm ?
@@CanvascampHeadOffice Then you dont know what your talking about, it doesn't matter what size stove or pipe, when they are burning properly they all perform the exact same way. It doesn't matter if the stove is steel, aluminum or cast iron. The only difference in the material is how well they maintain the heat. If your camping and using GREEN wood it doesnt matter how well your tent, camper or lean to is insulated, Green wood is going to smoke and NOT give you a good hot draw. I have lived many times in a sheep herders tent. a Quonset Hut a 6 ft cabin and my UN Insulated aluminum camper, all with steel, thin metal or cast iron stoves. As with the majority of people like me that live in the bush here in Alaska we only have a wood stove for heating and cooking. I couldnt tell you how many want to be Alaskans from the Lower 48 die here each year because they don't know how to run and maintain a wood stove properly or even know the right wood to burn. Most die of smoke inhalation or burn themselves down. I am in my 70's and have only cooked and heated with wood my entire life. So dont try and say I know other wise.
@@nicholasgiard4532 You shouldn't have to leave your windows open to ventilate. If your stove is properly hooked up their should be no leaks at all for your alarm to go off. If your getting monoxide inside the tent then you are not getting enough draw. YOur flu should be at least 14" above the roof line, anything lower and your more apt to have a bad draw. Make sure you have a damper on the pipe as well as the stove. On just the stove wont give you the best draw. Look for any soot build up where the pipes join, that is usually a sign of blow back down the pipe because it isn't getting enough draw or the fire is not burning hot enough to create a good draw when the stove is first fired up.
Can you send me your email? I'm a first time tent wood stove user and I would like to be sure I don't kill myself.
Tempted to say this video should be mandatory viewing for anyone buying a tent stove ... ooops I said it.
You shouldn't be putting safety tips out if you're not qualified. This is a life and death topic and a viewer or viewers may assume you're qualified, follow your tips and then DIE!. Are you even qualified?