You need to download a dissimilar metals chart and have it handy. Your boat won’t ‘rust’ but it will corrode. The further away from each other the metals, the more they will react and corrode. You polished the Stainless Steal and then used a steal wrench to tighten it. Tiny bits of carbon get imbedded on the surface of the SS and will rust. You need to polish them out. In a much earlier part of my life I worked as a welder for a couple of companies. They were concerned enough about the cross contamination that we had 3 different facilities. one each for steel, aluminum, stainless steel. I worked SS, one your first day you made your hammers out of SS and never had a carbon steel hammer in your box. Don’t mix your discs and never sand one metal with your dust going towards the other metal. It makes a difference. For your next haul out I would plan to cut the damaged area open to investigate. Be somewhere that you can get a qualified aluminum welding service to welded the repairs back in. That’s the cool thing about a metal boat. A proper weld is as good as new metal. There are people with truck mounted Rigs. Consult them before you open it up so you are on the same page for the repairs. You won’t regret the investment.
I can weld tho not a welder but I concur. As to the nasty welds on your keel, AL is a pain to weld so looks ain’t everything, if it seals, has no inclusions, don’t sweat the big boogers of weld! Thirty nears in sheet metal and manufacturing of most anything…🇺🇸
After the hull and deck of my Ted Brewer designed "Amoretto 35" sloop was completed in 1987,I had the hull below the waterline sprayed with an epoxy barrier coat primer called Hullgard or Bar- Rust 235 made by Devoe.The same or very similar product is manufactured by Awlgrip called "Hullgard Extra Epoxy Primer". Since 1992 when I launched the boat I've used copper based antifouling such as Petit Trinidad and Interlux Bottom Coat with absolutley no evidence of corrosion. Also I faired epoxy filler over the weldments along the keel and skeg for a smooth radiused transition to the hull. I recommend painting the entire bare areas of the bilge,especially under the engine,for a smooth, easy-to-clean surface to prevent any contaminants such as belt dust or anything else that can result in corrosion. Love your channel and long may you run! Great Cheerz!
This is very interesting content, not only for your can do attitude and commitment but because there are few aluminium boats that i have found in TH-cam channels and the subtle differences are enlightening. Bravo team Jibsea.
Aluminum boat is a lot easier I see.. Stripping the paint and antifol looks way easier.. My wife is dreading all the sanding and repairs coming next year on our 42 ft boat.. You guys make everything look so easy but we are newbies but realistically we are gonna fail a lot before getting it right.. I am not rich so it does concern me on costs.. Total boat is a great product but expensive as well.. It’s a little overwhelming knowing what needs to be done but you give us hope seeing how easy you make it look.. Great video again.. I like how you narrate each part.
We actually found it took more work as the sander couldn’t reach the welds and we had to do that separately. Also, our hull isn’t perfectly smooth like our last boat so we had to go over areas in multiple directions while sanding and painting
I caught it ,also I don't go by marks I use a loos gauge well worth the investment , to set and check your rigging . You can check tension before removal and put it back exact also that tension from side to side is equal
According to the captain of Sailing Lucky Fish, Slim on your hull hides the fact that toxic bottom paint is on your hull so the free swimming bottom growth sticks to your hull. Gas or electric pressure washers work under salt water just walk on the ocean floor and clean off the slim. Keep the slim off your hull and growth can not happen. Afterward, pump fresh water through the washer and hose off the outside of the washer.
I threw out my lmnt it does have maltodextrin even though it is not listed on the label. The 5 calories per packet is the clue. Bought Sten Eckberg’s electrolyte mix. Way better and more thought was put into the formulation.
I wonder if the forestay nuts are supposed to hit the anchor point, which may cause them to break. The forces from the mast pumping are from the fore to aft, not sideways, as you briefly mentioned. The toggle takes care of sideways movement. Just my2c, I'm not a rigger; thus, if I were you, I would seek advice from a professional rigger to get it checked before leaving for the next sail. Cheers.
@@SailingJibsea My advice still stands. You don't know that previous owners or any non-competent riggers did it correctly during the boat's history. Was the forestay designed this way? Just having two ways to put it together makes me suspicious.
The toggle that attaches to the deck fitting (where the pin goes through) seems too thin to me. I would definitely make it out of thicker material. The load there will be enormous.
I’ve allways wondered why the jackstands aren’t moved between coats of bottom paint. When the boat is next hauled, you can see where the stands were, particularly with ablative paint. Why don’t to paint the haul?
Niiiiiiiiiiiiice‼️ Bottom job looks fabulous 🎉🎉🎉 As far as work goes, happy the temp dropped so you did not cook in the white jump suits. 😊 I want to say time to head south, yet it seems, by your language, you are heading to high latitudes. Brrrrrr. Looking forward to those excursion adventures. See you next time. ✨🌊💨⛵️⚓️🧊⛄️🌞✨🎄
Check to see if there is an aluminum welder in that yard. A couple of pin holes would be a quick and easy fix and welding them they would not be a future issue. Epoxy is a bandaid.
Travis, I am not sure I understand your comment on not sanding aluminum with a wire brush, "...because it is stainless...". Stainless steel is what welders use on aluminum to avoid weld contamination; you do not use any other wire brushes, other than stainless. Regarding the keel, I don't know how the ballast was installed in the keel, but if there are any voids, it could be just condensation. Yes, the polished furler fitting should be installed with the fork up, like you ended up doing it. Good job guys.
I forgot to say I also used it (lightly) on the bronze prop first and I’ve heard you can contaminate the aluminum if used on other metals first but it’s all I had. I could be wrong tho. It was a quick google search prior to using it.
@@SailingJibsea You did the right thing by not using the wire brush on the bronze and then the aluminum. Cross contamination is very much a real thing, so you want to have dedicated cleaning consumables for just dealing with the aluminum. Stainless steel is the best choice for aluminum cleaning as it's abrasive enough to get through the oxide layer while still not leaving residue behind like a brass or mild steel wire brush will.
Hello. I don't have a yacht yet and I'm a beginner. I always watch TH-cam and dream of traveling around the world watching you guys. I have a question. If I were to paint the bottom of a 45ft frp myself, how much would it cost to paint it? I'm Korean and I don't speak English well, so I'm using a translator.
First boat we sailed off from Toronto and is where Steph is from. Jibsea II was built in BC and that’s where Travis is from so just made sense this time :)
Yea that’s what I figured but chatted with someone else that did the same and was pleasantly surprised on how long it lasted, so time will tell. Plus a good little test.
Cleaning up those welds and welding in some new plates that are properly faired in shouldn't be prohibitively expensive. Its mostly just finding a yard or fabricator that can do during a hall out. You should keep a list and get it all cleaned up. Those shitty welds wont only hurt speed but will give growth more places to hold on.
Need an industrial laser stripper to remove all paint. / Quite likely your keel has turned into a battery cell. When Noble and Ignoble metals get on the electrolytes they lose all inhibition and PARTEE!
Do you know for a fact how that water could get into your keel? Do you really have access to the inner volume of the keel from inside the boat? Often they are plated over and not accessable. Another comment suggests not trusting just epoxy... second that. When doing this, try to never ever break good barrier coat. Lightly sand the bottom paint and paint with new bottom paint. Thus, avoid "taking it down to the barrier coat" because almost all those patches where you are putting new barrier on are going to fight back. I'd guess the coating will fail by the next haul out. IMHO, the trouble is, a) you'll never really get it clean enough w/o sandblast, b) you're not able to us acid etch effectively, c) it's aluminum annd water and chemistry and that's just how it is. If you get to a point where there aren't barrier coat fails every year (after you fix any suspicious metal items), just wash and lightly sand before the new coat to avoid breaking barrier coat. If you achieve this, you can spend < 2 days on the whole bottom job. All IMHO. Good luck!
You got correct less pretty, treat that casting like egg shells, catching a wild flying drum on a full jenny sucks after the casting breaks, yes they do!
Glass blasting not sanding. Also it would have been a good idea to use MEK not acetone. Why are you sanding without reparators? Very toxic man.. I don't let my wife do anything like that without proper PPE.
Planning on keeping it bare aluminum. Love the patina and rugged look. If anything, eventually maybe the streaks but with aluminum it’ll just come back right away so it’s not a priority
Paints and wraps get scratched and on Al it's notorious for trapping moisture and causing corrosion if it pin holes or cracks.. So leaving it raw saves problems, expense and wt...if stress cracks develop in the bare metal they are easier to spot and fix... Just grind out the crack, degrease and weld.
Are there any tankage in the keel( fuel or water)? This could explain why someone opened the keel side to access it. If not, could it be that they built the keel with an opening then filled it with lead before closing it?
![CAN WE MAKE IT? Sailing Across the Caribbean Sea [Making Our Way Ep 131]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kF5BIlBDju8/mqdefault.jpg)
Go to DrinkLMNT.com/sailingjibsea for a free sample pack with any purchase!
Love seeing younger folks who aren’t afraid of hard work!
Work hard, play harder 😅
You need to download a dissimilar metals chart and have it handy. Your boat won’t ‘rust’ but it will corrode. The further away from each other the metals, the more they will react and corrode. You polished the Stainless Steal and then used a steal wrench to tighten it. Tiny bits of carbon get imbedded on the surface of the SS and will rust. You need to polish them out. In a much earlier part of my life I worked as a welder for a couple of companies. They were concerned enough about the cross contamination that we had 3 different facilities. one each for steel, aluminum, stainless steel. I worked SS, one your first day you made your hammers out of SS and never had a carbon steel hammer in your box. Don’t mix your discs and never sand one metal with your dust going towards the other metal. It makes a difference.
For your next haul out I would plan to cut the damaged area open to investigate. Be somewhere that you can get a qualified aluminum welding service to welded the repairs back in. That’s the cool thing about a metal boat. A proper weld is as good as new metal. There are people with truck mounted Rigs. Consult them before you open it up so you are on the same page for the repairs. You won’t regret the investment.
I can weld tho not a welder but I concur. As to the nasty welds on your keel, AL is a pain to weld so looks ain’t everything, if it seals, has no inclusions, don’t sweat the big boogers of weld!
Thirty nears in sheet metal and manufacturing of most anything…🇺🇸
After the hull and deck of my Ted Brewer designed "Amoretto 35" sloop was completed in 1987,I had the hull below the waterline sprayed with an epoxy barrier coat primer called Hullgard or Bar- Rust 235 made by Devoe.The same or very similar product is manufactured by Awlgrip called "Hullgard Extra Epoxy Primer".
Since 1992 when I launched the boat I've used copper based antifouling such as Petit Trinidad and Interlux Bottom Coat with absolutley no evidence of corrosion.
Also I faired epoxy filler over the weldments along the keel and skeg for a smooth radiused transition to the hull.
I recommend painting the entire bare areas of the bilge,especially under the engine,for a smooth, easy-to-clean surface to prevent any contaminants such as belt dust or anything else that can result in corrosion.
Love your channel and long may you run!
Great Cheerz!
You two what is so awesome about this channel!!!
Yep. I caught the cotter pins at the end. Good job you eventually remembered!
This is very interesting content, not only for your can do attitude and commitment but because there are few aluminium boats that i have found in TH-cam channels and the subtle differences are enlightening. Bravo team Jibsea.
SV Delos is currently building an aluminum boat. So they are right on trend with the big guys.😊
Aluminum boat is a lot easier I see.. Stripping the paint and antifol looks way easier.. My wife is dreading all the sanding and repairs coming next year on our 42 ft boat.. You guys make everything look so easy but we are newbies but realistically we are gonna fail a lot before getting it right.. I am not rich so it does concern me on costs.. Total boat is a great product but expensive as well.. It’s a little overwhelming knowing what needs to be done but you give us hope seeing how easy you make it look.. Great video again.. I like how you narrate each part.
We actually found it took more work as the sander couldn’t reach the welds and we had to do that separately. Also, our hull isn’t perfectly smooth like our last boat so we had to go over areas in multiple directions while sanding and painting
The hull looks great, Steph and Travis! We are excited to see where you cruise to next!
Congrats on going over 50k!
Great video. Definitely wear respirators when sanding antifouling paint...the dust is very toxic!
I caught it ,also I don't go by marks I use a loos gauge well worth the investment , to set and check your rigging . You can check tension before removal and put it back exact also that tension from side to side is equal
According to the captain of Sailing Lucky Fish, Slim on your hull hides the fact that toxic bottom paint is on your hull so the free swimming bottom growth sticks to your hull. Gas or electric pressure washers work under salt water just walk on the ocean floor and clean off the slim. Keep the slim off your hull and growth can not happen. Afterward, pump fresh water through the washer and hose off the outside of the washer.
Great episode 👏 paint 🎨 looks great. An big relief to be back in the water
I threw out my lmnt it does have maltodextrin even though it is not listed on the label. The 5 calories per packet is the clue. Bought Sten Eckberg’s electrolyte mix. Way better and more thought was put into the formulation.
good job kids...looks good...lets hope the paint works for a long time
Travis, do you know the story behind the rectangular weld bead on your keel… Thanks, John, Port Franks, Ontario…
If you get.down to bare aluminum you need to Aladin the surface, I'm a air aircraft mech. And it's important to protect the structure
Looking good the boat too!😁🥳
The new paint looks great 🎉🎉🎉🎉.
It’s lookin fresh!!
Takk!
Thank you! :)
Is it possible maybe it was condensation from a void in the keel??
I wonder if the forestay nuts are supposed to hit the anchor point, which may cause them to break. The forces from the mast pumping are from the fore to aft, not sideways, as you briefly mentioned. The toggle takes care of sideways movement. Just my2c, I'm not a rigger; thus, if I were you, I would seek advice from a professional rigger to get it checked before leaving for the next sail. Cheers.
Nope doesn’t hit the anchor at all. It was the original way before I disassembled it, just wanted to see how it would be the other way
@@SailingJibsea My advice still stands. You don't know that previous owners or any non-competent riggers did it correctly during the boat's history. Was the forestay designed this way? Just having two ways to put it together makes me suspicious.
The toggle that attaches to the deck fitting (where the pin goes through) seems too thin to me. I would definitely make it out of thicker material. The load there will be enormous.
Great episode.... Mahalo....
Awesome video great work
Great job! She really looks big out of the water.
Feels even bigger when you’re sanding haha
I’ve allways wondered why the jackstands aren’t moved between coats of bottom paint. When the boat is next hauled, you can see where the stands were, particularly with ablative paint. Why don’t to paint the haul?
Niiiiiiiiiiiiice‼️ Bottom job looks fabulous 🎉🎉🎉 As far as work goes, happy the temp dropped so you did not cook in the white jump suits. 😊 I want to say time to head south, yet it seems, by your language, you are heading to high latitudes. Brrrrrr. Looking forward to those excursion adventures. See you next time. ✨🌊💨⛵️⚓️🧊⛄️🌞✨🎄
It was definitely nice to not be sweating in the suits all day!
Very good video as always. 🙏🏼😄
Glad you enjoyed it!
Check to see if there is an aluminum welder in that yard. A couple of pin holes would be a quick and easy fix and welding them they would not be a future issue. Epoxy is a bandaid.
Groovy episode.
Good job 🎉
love your projects. do you have any plans to clean the streaks on your hull?
Eventually try to clean it up but we are keeping it raw aluminum and like the patina
term is Keyed . not toothed . . . You guys are a cute couple . awesome & much respect !
“Thanks Mom!”😂😂😂
😂😂
Nice video ❤
Boat looks great ! You deserve some Bahamas time !
We are definitely looking forward to some time off grid!
Cold, 15 -20? I just came from 30 in Taiwan to my boat in UK at neg 3, hopefully my last winter in the north.
What about the dingy topsides above the waterline?
You mean the patina? No plans for it
Duralac is an anti-corrosive jointing compound
Travis, I am not sure I understand your comment on not sanding aluminum with a wire brush, "...because it is stainless...". Stainless steel is what welders use on aluminum to avoid weld contamination; you do not use any other wire brushes, other than stainless.
Regarding the keel, I don't know how the ballast was installed in the keel, but if there are any voids, it could be just condensation.
Yes, the polished furler fitting should be installed with the fork up, like you ended up doing it. Good job guys.
I forgot to say I also used it (lightly) on the bronze prop first and I’ve heard you can contaminate the aluminum if used on other metals first but it’s all I had. I could be wrong tho. It was a quick google search prior to using it.
@@SailingJibsea Roger.
@@SailingJibsea You did the right thing by not using the wire brush on the bronze and then the aluminum. Cross contamination is very much a real thing, so you want to have dedicated cleaning consumables for just dealing with the aluminum. Stainless steel is the best choice for aluminum cleaning as it's abrasive enough to get through the oxide layer while still not leaving residue behind like a brass or mild steel wire brush will.
Hello. I don't have a yacht yet and I'm a beginner.
I always watch TH-cam and dream of traveling around the world watching you guys.
I have a question. If I were to paint the bottom of a 45ft frp myself, how much would it cost to paint it?
I'm Korean and I don't speak English well, so I'm using a translator.
You could probably get away with getting it all done yourself plus the cost of hauling out for less than $1500 USD
@@SailingJibsea thanks
what brand are you using for aluminum epoxy> Boat is looking good.she will be great in high lats.
TotalBoat
Hey, what's with the Vancouver on stern of boat???? No Tdot??
First boat we sailed off from Toronto and is where Steph is from. Jibsea II was built in BC and that’s where Travis is from so just made sense this time :)
Can't believe you still haven't painted the hull after two haul outs.
wouldn't you want to wear a respirator while sanding?
There was hardly at dust at all because we had vacuum sanders
Agree, you guys really should wear a respirator when sanding, even with the vacuum. I clogged up the filters on mine while doing the same.
Antifoul on the prop wont last 2 days. Even though its copper free, you need a 2 part to keep it on. Put prop speed on it.
Yea that’s what I figured but chatted with someone else that did the same and was pleasantly surprised on how long it lasted, so time will tell. Plus a good little test.
Cleaning up those welds and welding in some new plates that are properly faired in shouldn't be prohibitively expensive. Its mostly just finding a yard or fabricator that can do during a hall out. You should keep a list and get it all cleaned up. Those shitty welds wont only hurt speed but will give growth more places to hold on.
Need an industrial laser stripper to remove all paint. / Quite likely your keel has turned into a battery cell. When Noble and Ignoble metals get on the electrolytes they lose all inhibition and PARTEE!
Why not paint the freeboard?
It’ll only look pretty the day I apply it and then all down hill from there! Plus I love the rugged look.
@ Then it looks phenomenal! 👍
Dude why don't you weld the pesky holes?
How come the us I thought you was from Canada
We are. But we cruise everywhere
@SailingJibsea I see I didn't know if it would be cheaper to do the repairs in Canada
I wouldn’t get too discouraged. It’s an aluminum so you could always weld aluminum on aluminum. You just need to find somebody to help you out.
Absolutely! Just gotta save up to buy the welder now.
Was it because you had on sunglasses and couldn’t see it you sheared it off scraping?
No, it blended in with the barnacles and I wasn’t familiar with the bottom of the boat yet
❤
Hopefully Santa might bring you some better microphones. The audio is sometimes a bit too muffled.
Do you know for a fact how that water could get into your keel? Do you really have access to the inner volume of the keel from inside the boat? Often they are plated over and not accessable.
Another comment suggests not trusting just epoxy... second that.
When doing this, try to never ever break good barrier coat. Lightly sand the bottom paint and paint with new bottom paint. Thus, avoid "taking it down to the barrier coat" because almost all those patches where you are putting new barrier on are going to fight back. I'd guess the coating will fail by the next haul out.
IMHO, the trouble is, a) you'll never really get it clean enough w/o sandblast, b) you're not able to us acid etch effectively, c) it's aluminum annd water and chemistry and that's just how it is.
If you get to a point where there aren't barrier coat fails every year (after you fix any suspicious metal items), just wash and lightly sand before the new coat to avoid breaking barrier coat. If you achieve this, you can spend < 2 days on the whole bottom job.
All IMHO. Good luck!
Need to be wearing breathing mask and eye protection.
Thing is that it's already worse.
You got correct less pretty, treat that casting like egg shells, catching a wild flying drum on a full jenny sucks after the casting breaks, yes they do!
Bro ....hire a welder. Dont trust the epoxy
I hope you didn't pay more then $50,000 for that boat.
Glass blasting not sanding. Also it would have been a good idea to use MEK not acetone. Why are you sanding without reparators?
Very toxic man..
I don't let my wife do anything like that without proper PPE.
We used TotalBoat dewaxer and surface prep, not acetone.
You should have welded it.
The bottom looks great. But I was really hoping you'd clean up that dirty upper hull.😖🫣
Planning on keeping it bare aluminum. Love the patina and rugged look. If anything, eventually maybe the streaks but with aluminum it’ll just come back right away so it’s not a priority
Paints and wraps get scratched and on Al it's notorious for trapping moisture and causing corrosion if it pin holes or cracks..
So leaving it raw saves problems, expense and wt...if stress cracks develop in the bare metal they are easier to spot and fix... Just grind out the crack, degrease and weld.
Are there any tankage in the keel( fuel or water)? This could explain why someone opened the keel side to access it. If not, could it be that they built the keel with an opening then filled it with lead before closing it?