I'm glad to see this worthy Monarch getting all the love and attention that you're giving it. To think that this machine could have possibly been sold for scrap like so many great machines makes me sick. You can't buy a machine like this today. Even if you were willing to pay what it would be worth. Keep up the great work.
Hello Keith from Finland. The land of ice and snow. I have Karhula sorvi, (sorvi means in English lathe). Manufagtured year is 1916.. Very good condition now. She is waiting to go my shop in may. Thick crease everywhere. I restoration it and maybee take videos here. Your videos are interesting to watch. I wait more your videos. Sorry about my writing mistakes. My own language is Finnish. Seen again.
Liked your comment. I think it's skill because of the time and patience it took. It's also luck because every thing lined up. Thanks for the video Keith. I'd never heard of scraping till you mentioned it, of course I don't know everything and that's proof. Glad you got it done. I appreciate how you guys restore these old machines and give them a second life.
I consider you was patient enough not to rush the process, as someone who don't know much about scraping it seems to be a tedious slow process so being thorough and patient so not to remove too much at the beginning is the best. Your patience and attention to detail showed in the results
Wow Keith! I was holding my breath as you were measuring the dovetails for parallelism. I was even writing down the numbers as you called them out! Great job! Well done!
Hey Keith love the content, I've been around for quite sometime but recently you guys having so much fun has inspired me and I finally purchase my first lathe it's a crafstman 109 6" that doesn't have a motor or chuck but it's a great start, I'll be restoring it thanks to the wealth of knowledge provided by you guys and hopefully making videos on my channel to document the journey! Thanks for the inspiration! If anyone happens to have some junk for a crafstman 109 6" laying around taking up space I would gladly take it off your hands :-D
Thank you, thank you MUCH Keith! You've de-mystified much of the process of scraping! It truly is something that, if you're wanting to do a good job on as a hobby, you gotta look at it the way you would whittling on wood or applying a finish to a woodworking project: patience needed by the trailer load, and to me, best done on a lazy Saturday afternoon with the idea of it being an activity to rest one's mind with. ^_^ That's really what we need more than anything in today's society, hobby activities that one can use to mentally rest with. ^^
Great job. I look forward to seeing how this scraping job progresses. As Clint Eastwood would say “Do you feel lucky punk?” Thanks for making the video.
I'm going to call it skill as well as the fact you are dealing with a high quality piece of equipment to begin with. It still amazes me that even with really accurate and precise milling and grinding equipment, the best way to finish a surface that has to be really flat (especially if it's got to bear against another flat surface), is hand scraping.
True, but it would be a great tease to see a big machine in your shop looking to be restored. Keith's been working on the Monarch off and on for 6 months and I enjoy whenever he posts another video on it. I'm just along for the wonderful journey.
Hello Keith. Great video Thanks. I want to mention that I purchased a dvd on eBay of old machinists books and there are some of your videos when rebuilding the J. A. Vance planer matcher. I hope they're not selling your content without permission. You have one of the better channels on youtube.
I nice to see how over the course of 26 minutes that finger sure looks better :-) I imagine that really hurt at one point. Love seeing the how this old lathe is coming together
Looking good. I will offer a tip on your sequence that should help... When you scrape, work from the furthest point away from you and come back towards you, you won't be piling material into the blue that you have spotted that way. As you know, it's hard enough to see an accurate, very limited blue, spotting so keeping it clean as you scrape is very important. Thanks for sharing.
You scrap in a forward motion but you move backwards as you go. if you scrap forward and move forward you are pushing chips into the spotting and that's not good...messes up the spotting. Was just a suggestion, it's very clearly laid out in the Connelly Machine Tool Reconditioning Book, but obviously there are many "ways" to skin a surface :)
I'm still not making my point, I struggle sometime to convey a message, so I will try again. I scrape in a forward motion, for all the reason you just mentioned, but the motion I take, how I move to the next highpoint, is from furthest point to nearest point (working back toward myself, meaning point of contact, not the scrapping motion); as you finish a motion you move backward (not in contact with part) exposing your spotting from underneath the blade (as you view the area from the top), pick your spot, scrape it, repeat, all that in fractions of a second. In other words, scrape with a forward motion while working your way backward so that you don't push material into the spotting. Hope that's clearer?? Good exchange, always learning.... Thanks
I repaired and rebuilt the file cutting machines while I worked for Nicholson File. Prussian blue and cadmium yellow were always in my tool box. Lots of scraping on the Barnett cutting machines.
When I read the book "First Light", which is stories from the Hale observatory, there was a statement that lens grinders were never finished and you just had to take it away when it was finished enough. I'm glad to see that scraping isn't that bad. lol
Hey Keith, Sandrammer is doing a very interesting series on pouring Babbitt bearings but needs some bearings to pour. If the plainer needs their bearings repoured now is the the time it done. You should check out his channel.
In the words of one of the most mad-skilled guys out there, Tom Lipton: "I'll take luck over skill any day; you can only have so much skill." Ha ha! Great work, Keith!
At 4:37 is that a crack I see between at the "1" between the "2" and "0"? At 7:46 it looks like it crosses over to the other side? Is this part of the oiling system? Okay, somewhere around 21:25 - 21:30 you mentioned an oil groove, so I guess that answered my question. Very tedious process, but if you watched me hand-plane a piece of timber 4-square, you might find it tedious, but I can do it minutes most of the time (not quite the same as truing ways, of course)! ~525.5 all the way across! You lucky bastard! :) Well done! My hat off to you, sir!
when rough scraping or step scraping is it necessary t space the scrapes but i dont see why since it will leave highspot orr i have to cross the scrape marks to get a 100 percent?
The scrapper is straight compared to what? And where is that straight edge? I am asking because I do not know I am not questioning if it is straight or not. What do we compare it to? You are doing a great job. Thank you
For the outcome luck is as good as skill!! lol I assume that since you took material off the flats again that you re-verified they were flat and parallel to each other?
We had a famous alpine skier, Ingemar Stenmark, who was so superior that the World cup rules were changed to make things interesting again. He said "I don't know anything about luck, but that the harder I train, the luckier I get."
Nice job! If your scraper was flat and your bluing was even then everything after the second measurement was not a surprise. Simple geometry will tell you that. What the rest of the measurements give you is cumulative error as much as scraping quality. It will be interesting to see how the rest goes together in the end.
Keith, you are the expert but I am wondering if the worn surfaces are the place to start. Why not start with a rough assay of all the machined or ground surfaces which are not worn, beginning with the assumption that the saddle may possibly be warped as well as worn. Assuming it is not, you might assume that all the top surfaces or non-sliding top surfaces were machined with the same setup, then flipped over and the bottom and sliding surfaces were machined. Once the sliding surfaces were ground, assuming no aging or stress relief was done, the saddle could be supported on the ways or a profile copy of it, or some pertinent method and the finish grinding done on the sliding parts of the top of the saddle. The saddle and apron need to be checked for warpage at some point before final top and bottom machine work. Once you have the top surfaces true and measured, you can use the repair material in an appropriate thickness to replace the worn saddle sliding surfaces. The process would sort or recreate the machining of the rough casting. It may also be possible to use iron shims made to fit in place of the PTFE material at perhaps a savings. It may be possible to epoxy or screw the shims to the saddle then machine them. Grinding the saddle before scraping would eliminate low spots and require only enough scraping to remove the last thousandth inch or whatever you require. Not having to scrape the PTFE material could eliminate the danger of thinning it too far. The US Turcite distributor offers installation classes. mtsandtg.com/specialty-components-group-about-us Hope this is of some help, and thanks for showing us so much about use, care and feeding of our machinery heritage!
Great job, Keith. I have one question. I thought those straight edge angled sides were 60 degrees to match the dove tail. But yours had a lot of angle space left. Please educate me.
When scraping a dovetail, you do not want the straightedge to contact both surfaces at once. That simply does not work. The straightedge is made to a smaller included angle on purpose for that reason. We want to work on just one surface at a time. Also, the actual angle is meaningless, so long as it is a dovetail, and that the two sliding surfaces match each other. Note that there was not measurement of the actual angles, because it does not matter so long as the mating surfaces match.
Bob Korves , I see both sides of the question. I always thought that they would be a precision 60 or 55 degrees. But I think your point is, and correctly so, once you have the first surface of a side of the dovetail flat then that will be the reference for its mating surface and not the straitedge.
Most straight edges have the dovetail at 45 degrees instead of 60 degrees. You have to remember, that you are not bluing both sides at the same time - you are either bluing off of the bottom or the dovetail side. Because of that, you don't want to the bottom touching when you are bluing the inside of a dovetails, hence, the difference in angles.
We cleaned it up really good over Christmas this year and she has a nearly complete coat of new paint. Still have not been able to hook it up to electricity - I have some electrical work to do first.
Keith I have been following along, what I am not getting is, at what point do you do the the bed ways? Or does one assume they are flat and parallel ? Thanks, Joe
When you checked for parallelism, you got different readings than your previous measurements (0.5255 this time, 0.484-ish last time). Is this because you used a different set of dowel rods?
Slowly using a precision diamond card / stone or more quickly using a diamond wheel. It's no different to sharpening any other tool the trick as always is to find something harder than the thing you want to sharpen :-)
Is there a specific angle that you are trying to sharpen to like a woodworking chisel or are you trying to raise a burr like on a woodworking scraper or a paint scraper?
chris0tube Keith’s video actually demonstrates why it’s useful. When his surface was high in the middle, the straightedge rocked on that spot. In addition to bluing the high area as it should, it also transferred blue to the far ends of the dovetail which are actually low relative to the center. The hinge test quickly confirmed where the real high spot was and reminded him not to scrape the ends which also show up as blue. Had he just followed the blue with the power scraper, he would have just been chasing a crowned surface forever.
I've never really got scraping. Wldn't it be better to use a fine stone to lightly grind, almost hone, buff it, at the end to kinda average it out even more
Adam Smith scraping actually gives you minute voids for the oil to be held. The oil can then lubricate the part and provide the thin film between the two parts so there is no metal/metal contact... In theory. :-)
but wouldnt milling also give you some voids too? ive not quite got the scraping either, and they cut channels for oiways anyway.hmm still not convinced with the scraping, i think its about doing it the old way, after all ts old lathes etc so why not
You don't want the surfaces dead flat. You need a film of oil between the surfaces, and if they are dead flat there is no place for the oil to lurk around, it will all get squished out and you end up dry and rubbing. Hand scraping can correct various errors the grinder left, and then it leaves *tiny* hills and valleys. This reduces the total amount of surface in contact, which reduces the total friction, and also leaves places for the oil to lurk around and be useful.
I only know what I learnt watching Keiths videos. But what he has explained is that the scraping leaves little pockets for oil to sit in. This helps prevent wear on the machine. So this uneven surface you would get rid of with your "grinding" is actually desirable.
You will never, ever get it flat with a stone. Variations in pressure, not spanning the entire surface, the stone not being flat, etc. You would need to do it with a machine that can deliver constant pressure over the entire surface. (Which is impractical, esp in the home shop.) Also, flaking is more for oil retention, not scraping. Though scraping alone does help somewhat with oil retention. Scraping will flatten it, stoning/honing will make it smooth. You want it flat.
I'm glad to see this worthy Monarch getting all the love and attention that you're giving it. To think that this machine could have possibly been sold for scrap like so many great machines makes me sick. You can't buy a machine like this today. Even if you were willing to pay what it would be worth. Keep up the great work.
Hello Keith from Finland. The land of ice and snow. I have Karhula sorvi, (sorvi means in English lathe). Manufagtured year is 1916.. Very good condition now. She is waiting to go my shop in may. Thick crease everywhere. I restoration it and maybee take videos here. Your videos are interesting to watch. I wait more your videos. Sorry about my writing mistakes. My own language is Finnish. Seen again.
Liked your comment. I think it's skill because of the time and patience it took. It's also luck because every thing lined up. Thanks for the video Keith. I'd never heard of scraping till you mentioned it, of course I don't know everything and that's proof. Glad you got it done. I appreciate how you guys restore these old machines and give them a second life.
Yes, that's the way it's done.
always very informative
I consider you was patient enough not to rush the process, as someone who don't know much about scraping it seems to be a tedious slow process so being thorough and patient so not to remove too much at the beginning is the best. Your patience and attention to detail showed in the results
Man, that's a good bit of intricate work still ahead. I praise you for your patients. Thanks for the video.
That is a lot I’d intricate work. A non-machinist here. Is a new lathe “perfect”???
That is skill and what a good job.
Wow Keith! I was holding my breath as you were measuring the dovetails for parallelism. I was even writing down the numbers as you called them out! Great job! Well done!
The wealth of knowledge Keith has is consistently impressive. Long may he post.
Nice work!
Amazing how parallel you got the two dovetails!
Wow! :)
Great piece of work Keith. It's a good advert for your skill and patience but also for your teacher Richard.
Fantastic results, I know you are delighted. It's not luck; it's your patience and skill.
Hey Keith love the content, I've been around for quite sometime but recently you guys having so much fun has inspired me and I finally purchase my first lathe it's a crafstman 109 6" that doesn't have a motor or chuck but it's a great start, I'll be restoring it thanks to the wealth of knowledge provided by you guys and hopefully making videos on my channel to document the journey! Thanks for the inspiration! If anyone happens to have some junk for a crafstman 109 6" laying around taking up space I would gladly take it off your hands :-D
very nice job on the scrapeing. once your finnished with the monarch she is going to be a fine lathe great job thanks for sharing that knowlage Kieth.
Thank you, thank you MUCH Keith! You've de-mystified much of the process of scraping! It truly is something that, if you're wanting to do a good job on as a hobby, you gotta look at it the way you would whittling on wood or applying a finish to a woodworking project: patience needed by the trailer load, and to me, best done on a lazy Saturday afternoon with the idea of it being an activity to rest one's mind with. ^_^ That's really what we need more than anything in today's society, hobby activities that one can use to mentally rest with. ^^
I am really liking this restoration. It’s a pleasure to see such skill and patience
It seems that one of the biggest tricks in scraping is knowing when to STOP scraping. Thanks for posting Keith.
That is just awesome
A big item off the checklist. Congratulations on getting the dovetails done!
Thanks Keith. Always look forward to your restorations.
That patience paid off it seems!
Great job. I look forward to seeing how this scraping job progresses. As Clint Eastwood would say “Do you feel lucky punk?” Thanks for making the video.
Great work Keith, nice job. You are a patient man.
Good job Keith! Congratulations!
Looking to more on the Monarch. I have followed you through Part 14. Hoping for more.
Fantastic job!
I'm going to call it skill as well as the fact you are dealing with a high quality piece of equipment to begin with. It still amazes me that even with really accurate and precise milling and grinding equipment, the best way to finish a surface that has to be really flat (especially if it's got to bear against another flat surface), is hand scraping.
Wow, so much work, but loving every minute of your vids Keith. Learning something every time. Thanks!
Keith, I'm gonna go with luck, and a lot of skill on your part. Very well done! That's really cool to watch.
Looking Good!
Dag gum mr rutger 525.5 you the man...
I really want to learn this one day.
I see a End Mill multi restore video in the NEAR future?...Please! ;-) Looking forward to your next video.
Haha. Keith is miles above where I am at right now.
True, but it would be a great tease to see a big machine in your shop looking to be restored. Keith's been working on the Monarch off and on for 6 months and I enjoy whenever he posts another video on it. I'm just along for the wonderful journey.
There’s a TH-cam rumour that if you start to scrape ways, a future time-traveling version of you will appear to warn you not to.
Better than factory fresh. Not just good work, Keith but GREAT work.
looks good Keith you have good reason to smile
THANK YOU...for sharing.
Keith nice work.
Hello Keith. Great video Thanks. I want to mention that I purchased a dvd on eBay of old machinists books and there are some of your videos when rebuilding the J. A. Vance planer matcher. I hope they're not selling your content without permission. You have one of the better channels on youtube.
well done keth great job sir
A very very interesting and informative video.
Congratulations, job well done!
Great work, it's coming along! Btw, listening to Keith in 0.5 speed is hilarious!
Nice job Keith
Nice.
Thanks,
John
Another good job. Thanks.
Very nice work.
I nice to see how over the course of 26 minutes that finger sure looks better :-) I imagine that really hurt at one point. Love seeing the how this old lathe is coming together
Nice video Keith!
Nice work
Looking good. I will offer a tip on your sequence that should help... When you scrape, work from the furthest point away from you and come back towards you, you won't be piling material into the blue that you have spotted that way. As you know, it's hard enough to see an accurate, very limited blue, spotting so keeping it clean as you scrape is very important. Thanks for sharing.
You scrap in a forward motion but you move backwards as you go. if you scrap forward and move forward you are pushing chips into the spotting and that's not good...messes up the spotting. Was just a suggestion, it's very clearly laid out in the Connelly Machine Tool Reconditioning Book, but obviously there are many "ways" to skin a surface :)
I'm still not making my point, I struggle sometime to convey a message, so I will try again. I scrape in a forward motion, for all the reason you just mentioned, but the motion I take, how I move to the next highpoint, is from furthest point to nearest point (working back toward myself, meaning point of contact, not the scrapping motion); as you finish a motion you move backward (not in contact with part) exposing your spotting from underneath the blade (as you view the area from the top), pick your spot, scrape it, repeat, all that in fractions of a second. In other words, scrape with a forward motion while working your way backward so that you don't push material into the spotting. Hope that's clearer?? Good exchange, always learning.... Thanks
Great video, really enjoyed that one
Great job.
Nice job!
Dovetail scraping looks far more tedious than 'normal' open scraping.
Congrats on a job well done! 👍
I repaired and rebuilt the file cutting machines while I worked for Nicholson File. Prussian blue and cadmium yellow were always in my tool box. Lots of scraping on the Barnett cutting machines.
You must have so many stories to tell. To bad nicholson went to mexico. Damn shame
Cadmium yellow instead of Lead Chromate yellow?
Cadmium yellow and Prussian blue oil paint. When I first started in the mid-70's we used red lead. Marked really well.
wow good job!!!
When I read the book "First Light", which is stories from the Hale observatory, there was a statement that lens grinders were never finished and you just had to take it away when it was finished enough. I'm glad to see that scraping isn't that bad. lol
A tip from another field: It is said that a software project is never really finished, but is instead abandoned in a more-or-less working state.
More skill than luck, me thinks. Great video. Cheers
Thanks for the video. Lets me know that I used good methods when I scraped my milling machine.
Great!
This a great series showing your amazing skills. Are you going to show more on this project?
You cannot BS us, Keith, you have a hot dog cooker out there and there really is mustard in that bottle... :>)
I do have a grill outside the shop door, but I keep my mustard in the fridge, not out on my workbench.....
Hey Keith,
Sandrammer is doing a very interesting series on pouring Babbitt bearings but needs some bearings to pour. If the plainer needs their bearings repoured now is the the time it done. You should check out his channel.
In the words of one of the most mad-skilled guys out there, Tom Lipton: "I'll take luck over skill any day; you can only have so much skill." Ha ha! Great work, Keith!
At 4:37 is that a crack I see between at the "1" between the "2" and "0"? At 7:46 it looks like it crosses over to the other side? Is this part of the oiling system? Okay, somewhere around 21:25 - 21:30 you mentioned an oil groove, so I guess that answered my question. Very tedious process, but if you watched me hand-plane a piece of timber 4-square, you might find it tedious, but I can do it minutes most of the time (not quite the same as truing ways, of course)!
~525.5 all the way across! You lucky bastard! :) Well done! My hat off to you, sir!
How do you ensure that the cross slide dovetails are perpendicular to the bed ways?
Seems like that would be a pretty hard measurement.
when rough scraping or step scraping is it necessary t space the scrapes but i dont see why since it will leave highspot orr i have to cross the scrape marks to get a 100 percent?
What do you do when the ways are worn?
Probably too late to get an answer but how do you ensure squareness with the main lathe bed? Also, what grit of stone should he used for deburring?
The scrapper is straight compared to what? And where is that straight edge? I am asking because I do not know I am not questioning if it is straight or not. What do we compare it to? You are doing a great job. Thank you
For the outcome luck is as good as skill!! lol I assume that since you took material off the flats again that you re-verified they were flat and parallel to each other?
We had a famous alpine skier, Ingemar Stenmark, who was so superior that the World cup rules were changed to make things interesting again. He said "I don't know anything about luck, but that the harder I train, the luckier I get."
Flat, Parallel, Square... It's both simple and challenging at the same time!
Is that dovetail a separate piece from the saddle? I see bolts.
Nice job! If your scraper was flat and your bluing was even then everything after the second measurement was not a surprise. Simple geometry will tell you that. What the rest of the measurements give you is cumulative error as much as scraping quality. It will be interesting to see how the rest goes together in the end.
Do you think there would be a different result positioning and scraping the saddle on the lathe ways vs laying on a work table?
ialways wondered hot this was done
Happy Dance!
Keith, you are the expert but I am wondering if the worn surfaces are the place to start.
Why not start with a rough assay of all the machined or ground surfaces which are not worn, beginning with the assumption that the saddle may possibly be warped as well as worn. Assuming it is not, you might assume that all the top surfaces or non-sliding top surfaces were machined with the same setup, then flipped over and the bottom and sliding surfaces were machined. Once the sliding surfaces were ground, assuming no aging or stress relief was done, the saddle could be supported on the ways or a profile copy of it, or some pertinent method and the finish grinding done on the sliding parts of the top of the saddle. The saddle and apron need to be checked for warpage at some point before final top and bottom machine work. Once you have the top surfaces true and measured, you can use the repair material in an appropriate thickness to replace the worn saddle sliding surfaces. The process would sort or recreate the machining of the rough casting.
It may also be possible to use iron shims made to fit in place of the PTFE material at perhaps a savings. It may be possible to epoxy or screw the shims to the saddle then machine them. Grinding the saddle before scraping would eliminate low spots and require only enough scraping to remove the last thousandth inch or whatever you require. Not having to scrape the PTFE material could eliminate the danger of thinning it too far.
The US Turcite distributor offers installation classes. mtsandtg.com/specialty-components-group-about-us
Hope this is of some help, and thanks for showing us so much about use, care and feeding of our machinery heritage!
n
How do you ensure that the dovetails are 90 deg to the bed ways? Real interesting thanks.
scott black prior video he shows using the granite angle plate that's sitting on the ways by the headstock.
Next step/video, stay tuned! 😉😀
Mark Schweter ah ok. I will try to wait. Patience is a virtue but not one of mine.
scott black just go to the one previous to this one.
(same here... Can't wait for the next installment! 😜
LOL watching scraping is like watching paint dry :)
Still waiting for the video: "Hooked on Scraping."
Great job, Keith. I have one question. I thought those straight edge angled sides were 60 degrees to match the dove tail. But yours had a lot of angle space left. Please educate me.
When scraping a dovetail, you do not want the straightedge to contact both surfaces at once. That simply does not work. The straightedge is made to a smaller included angle on purpose for that reason. We want to work on just one surface at a time. Also, the actual angle is meaningless, so long as it is a dovetail, and that the two sliding surfaces match each other. Note that there was not measurement of the actual angles, because it does not matter so long as the mating surfaces match.
Bob Korves , I see both sides of the question. I always thought that they would be a precision 60 or 55 degrees. But I think your point is, and correctly so, once you have the first surface of a side of the dovetail flat then that will be the reference for its mating surface and not the straitedge.
Most straight edges have the dovetail at 45 degrees instead of 60 degrees. You have to remember, that you are not bluing both sides at the same time - you are either bluing off of the bottom or the dovetail side. Because of that, you don't want to the bottom touching when you are bluing the inside of a dovetails, hence, the difference in angles.
Have you done anything on the 28" Monarch?
We cleaned it up really good over Christmas this year and she has a nearly complete coat of new paint. Still have not been able to hook it up to electricity - I have some electrical work to do first.
Keith I have been following along, what I am not getting is, at what point do you do the the bed ways? Or does one assume they are flat and parallel ? Thanks, Joe
When you checked for parallelism, you got different readings than your previous measurements (0.5255 this time, 0.484-ish last time). Is this because you used a different set of dowel rods?
Here's one vote for "skill" :-)
Was there a reason you didn't use the top slide as a " master" ?
So how do you sharpen a carbide scraper blade for your power scrapers?
Slowly using a precision diamond card / stone or more quickly using a diamond wheel. It's no different to sharpening any other tool the trick as always is to find something harder than the thing you want to sharpen :-)
Is there a specific angle that you are trying to sharpen to like a woodworking chisel or are you trying to raise a burr like on a woodworking scraper or a paint scraper?
The angle depends on what you are scrapping and if it's roughing or finishing.
It does not appear in the video that you are using much down pressure when scraping. Could you comment please?
I can still hear Richard King in class telling us to hinge it before making any decisions about where to scrape. Nice work Keith.
chris0tube Keith’s video actually demonstrates why it’s useful. When his surface was high in the middle, the straightedge rocked on that spot. In addition to bluing the high area as it should, it also transferred blue to the far ends of the dovetail which are actually low relative to the center. The hinge test quickly confirmed where the real high spot was and reminded him not to scrape the ends which also show up as blue.
Had he just followed the blue with the power scraper, he would have just been chasing a crowned surface forever.
I've never really got scraping. Wldn't it be better to use a fine stone to lightly grind, almost hone, buff it, at the end to kinda average it out even more
Adam Smith scraping actually gives you minute voids for the oil to be held. The oil can then lubricate the part and provide the thin film between the two parts so there is no metal/metal contact... In theory. :-)
but wouldnt milling also give you some voids too? ive not quite got the scraping either, and they cut channels for oiways anyway.hmm still not convinced with the scraping, i think its about doing it the old way, after all ts old lathes etc so why not
You don't want the surfaces dead flat. You need a film of oil between the surfaces, and if they are dead flat there is no place for the oil to lurk around, it will all get squished out and you end up dry and rubbing. Hand scraping can correct various errors the grinder left, and then it leaves *tiny* hills and valleys. This reduces the total amount of surface in contact, which reduces the total friction, and also leaves places for the oil to lurk around and be useful.
I only know what I learnt watching Keiths videos. But what he has explained is that the scraping leaves little pockets for oil to sit in. This helps prevent wear on the machine. So this uneven surface you would get rid of with your "grinding" is actually desirable.
You will never, ever get it flat with a stone. Variations in pressure, not spanning the entire surface, the stone not being flat, etc. You would need to do it with a machine that can deliver constant pressure over the entire surface. (Which is impractical, esp in the home shop.) Also, flaking is more for oil retention, not scraping. Though scraping alone does help somewhat with oil retention. Scraping will flatten it, stoning/honing will make it smooth. You want it flat.
Luck or skill does not matter only results matter
Sometime it is better to be lucky than good...LOL
Skill, luck? No it's patience. :D
Better to be lucky than good. But try to be good.
When we were kids, my dad would tell us to "be good". If you can't be good then be careful. And, if you can't be careful, be quick.
oh come on, just say its magic mustard!
This was not very clear at all - you need to come over and demonstrate on my y axis of my Bridgeport! LOL!!! (please!!!)
Thats fun to watch.......not do.
scraping is really not my favorite restoration process.. but i understand it's important
9 votes for skill with a vote for luck too.
#1