Keith, the angle between your scraper on the dovetail surface is very shallow, giving you a very flat scrape spot/line, incease the angle to get better spotting per inch, instead of very shallow scrape depths.
Over three days I have followed this entire series and it makes really enjoyable watching!!! What is more I think I have picked up the general practice of surface scraping--as much as anyone can who has never actually done it first hand. At least I think if I ever had a go at it I would know where to start pretty well at each stage. I am now very much looking forward to seing the lathe running again and making some screw threads and parts and whatever else. It does make me smile though when Keith said back in May 2017 that this would be his main project to get done over the summer!!! Now once the last bits are done... Is it time for that huge lathe you picked up some time ago with the super-cool compressed-air controlled compound and cross-slide?
Now just dust the side of that base off on the mill to make the top slide sit flush with the base again for proper appearance. :-) 20:25 looks like it needs a good .010" off to line the side back up.
We love scrapping our day is coming great mental therapy and exercise as we only prefer to learn hand scrapping since our machines are micro machines. Keith makes it look easy so that shares with us that it will make it challenging and fun to learn on many yest pieces before ever touching a real machine of ours. Thank you for the Monarch update she is coming along very well looking really nice, 18:45 sure looks GREAT good job sir. Lance & Patrick.
Looks like it is comming nicely together. Looking forward to future videos. And if your dimension seems too high, you can always tighten the micrometer screw a little more :-)
Just a question on measuring for parallel if you have scraped in both sides to satisfaction would it not stand to reason that if your two end measurements are the same then the rest should be parallel I mean I know it's always good to check but if the surface used to scrape to is flat that would mean that surface is flat right
I followed the Restoration of the New Haven Planer but can't figure out why Part 31, 32, etc don't come up in the search. Since I don't know when any of the videos were made I can't tell if the missing videos are because you have not made them yet. So is there a way to see what videos are available? Second question - while looking for the videos I came across a piece that showed an Atlas Horz Mill and you said that you were going to do a video on rebuilding it. I have the same Mill, or perhaps one slightly bigger, and would love to rebuild it, but to do so I would need the guidance I could get from your effort. Is that still a project that is planned, or has it been done, or is their some other info in that machine?
Not trying to be critical, just ...questions. Seems like there was a bit too much bluing used at times (it was smearing rather than printing) and several times I could see the tell-tale ‘bullseye’ pattern, a bright burnished peak surrounded by dense blue ring of ink. I thought you were supposed to use thinner and thinner coats of blue as you progressed through the stages (the thinnest prints when getting nearest to the end). Also, you milled and ground some of the surfaces- at what point would you use turcite Ie to restore the lost material?
I'd be a little concerned that the compound screw is no longer in line with the thread in the base. You might need to bring that back up a little with some way material before making a new gib. This is particularly true with the thread being in the casting as there's no way to move the nut with shims or machining.
@@aserta It's not a gib problem so much as the original gib showing that there might be an alignment problem with the screw and nut. The nut is fixed in position in the base and the screw in the the top and milling and scraping the interface between the 2 has now significantly changed the alignment of the as shown by the undersize gib. That alignment needs to be restored before making a new gib
In many cases yes, however the geometry involved is sometimes easier to finish by scraping than trying to grind all of the goofy angles and milling is not accurate enough, and the fixturing pressures required is prohibitive to accuracy. Two scraped surfaces have the advantage that both surfaces are broken up which means the load bearing high points bear the load for a moment and then it slides over a valley and gets lubricated and then back to contact and on and on, it greatly prolongs the life of the machine. Also when the speed is higher two scraped surfaces will force oil against each other promoting hydrodynamic lift, which is a zero wear condition, as the scraping pockets act as thousands of tiny oil wedges.
Keith, I usually love your videos but i seem to have trouble getting in to the scraping vids. I realize it's necessary for quality work and I'm sure there are others that find the whole scraping thing fascinating but it seems I'm just not one of them. I guess if the scraping portions of your projects were a bit more abbreviated, I'd relate more but please, keep making content and I'll keep watching. Thanks for what you do.
The skills of machine tool reconditioning, and scraping, which is part of the process, are dying out fairly rapidly as the current generation of those doing that work are retiring and passing on. Richard King is emphatic that we pass the skills along to the next generation, before they are forgotten and lost. Keith is doing a magnificent job of being a free instructor for passing on the skills, which are often not what they might appear to be, to us for free. Thank you , Keith!
You have the constitutional option to not watch the video. There's 10+ channels on TH-cam to supplement your ISSUES, regarding something that only affects a small portion of people who weren't taught better about complaining.
Keith, please don't abbreviate. IMO there's already too much of that in this very video (e.g. my other comment about jump cut at about 4:21). But do Title your scraping videos "scraping" (as you always have)
@@aserta Hm, what you call complaining, aserta, I call feedback. Even so, I really appreciate the fact that you are around to remind me of my options. I certainly wouldn't want Keith's comment section to become a circus of people complaining about my "complaining". Thanks for your input and have a really great day. ;)
The focus required for scraping is similar to viewing, you got that right! I also speed the video up 2X as he speaks fairly slowly so even at 2x he is completely understandable.
That's because you don't need this. Some of us do. That being said, i don't understand the need to say something about unsubbing to a free channel that costs you ZERO to keep subbed to.
Polished sliding surfaces "aren't very good" because of stiction and because it forces all of the oil out of the interface. (There are cases when that doesn't apply, but most of the time you don't want polished surfaces.) Do some research on scraping and why it is still used even on modern day machines.
@@stephengraves3275 The microscopic valleys that are left by scraping hold oil which allows more slippage between the surfaces. This is a very basic answer, but you can build upon it by watching more YT vids about scraping. 2 years ago I didn't see any point in scraping but I'm learning. And I'm 70. A person can always learn something. Hope this helps.
Are you familiar with gage blocks and how they can be wrung together forming one stack that doesn't come apart? These gage blocks are very smooth or polished leaving almost no valleys. That is how they are able to hold together so no air or oil can be between them. With the valleys of 0.0001 inch there is room for oil to be between the surfaces and there are about 30 to 40 contact points per square inch on each face making contact with oil in the valleys. Not all contact points are identical and not in a pattern so sliding is smooth. I know I am long winded but that is what I understand of the process. Hope the explanation helps.
Hey, i'm now only 3 years behind! Whoopie! All good stuff!
Great scraping video! I have some of that work coming up, so I really appreciate the walk through
The man with the plan.
Looking forward to that test cut. See you at Summer Bash!
Once you grasp the basic concepts behind scraping a surface, understanding the order of procedures is so much easier to get.
Keith, the angle between your scraper on the dovetail surface is very shallow, giving you a very flat scrape spot/line, incease the angle to get better spotting per inch, instead of very shallow scrape depths.
Wish I'd seen this sooner Keith just did mine with a 9 in angle grinder !
It's nice when things fall into place.
Super logical technique. Thanks!
👍👍👍
Nice job will be an awesome lathe when finished.
Watching in Alabama!
Thank teacher
Amazing job!! thank you for sharing. Greetings from Portugal
It's always a pleasure to watch your videos. Your enthusiasm for the topic makes it all the more worthwhile.
Nicely done Keith.
Thanks for the video.
The edit at 4:20 was a little too much like magic. In my opinion the process of getting that blue on there bears explanation. It's a vital stage.
Over three days I have followed this entire series and it makes really enjoyable watching!!! What is more I think I have picked up the general practice of surface scraping--as much as anyone can who has never actually done it first hand. At least I think if I ever had a go at it I would know where to start pretty well at each stage.
I am now very much looking forward to seing the lathe running again and making some screw threads and parts and whatever else. It does make me smile though when Keith said back in May 2017 that this would be his main project to get done over the summer!!!
Now once the last bits are done... Is it time for that huge lathe you picked up some time ago with the super-cool compressed-air controlled compound and cross-slide?
Thank you KeithI Informative and interesting as always.
Now just dust the side of that base off on the mill to make the top slide sit flush with the base again for proper appearance. :-) 20:25 looks like it needs a good .010" off to line the side back up.
I think it's dropped far enough down and right to ruin the alignment of the compound screw with the cast in nut.
Nice work, its not far now.
Nice work. Isn't it great when a plan comes together!
THANK YOU...for sharing.
can’t wait for first chips
Hi nice video, two information where do I find such a small tip / plate for the scaper? And a similar stone so angled? Thanks
We love scrapping our day is coming great mental therapy and exercise as we only prefer to learn hand scrapping since our machines are micro machines. Keith makes it look easy so that shares with us that it will make it challenging and fun to learn on many yest pieces before ever touching a real machine of ours. Thank you for the Monarch update she is coming along very well looking really nice, 18:45 sure looks GREAT good job sir. Lance & Patrick.
Do the two gage pins need to be the same diameter? Can I use a .375 and a .376, for example?
Releaf 1/3 of the shorter movenig pease and it will wear in faster"rock" less under heavy load
Yes, I was looking for this comment, and I find it! He should do this.
Looks like it is comming nicely together. Looking forward to future videos. And if your dimension seems too high, you can always tighten the micrometer screw a little more :-)
It should be better than a new lathe when you're done
Keith, do you change the down pressure when you are scraping?
Just a question on measuring for parallel if you have scraped in both sides to satisfaction would it not stand to reason that if your two end measurements are the same then the rest should be parallel I mean I know it's always good to check but if the surface used to scrape to is flat that would mean that surface is flat right
Keith, have you considered filling in the divots on the compound where someone has gotten to close to the chuck?
I followed the Restoration of the New Haven Planer but can't figure out why Part 31, 32, etc don't come up in the search. Since I don't know when any of the videos were made I can't tell if the missing videos are because you have not made them yet. So is there a way to see what videos are available? Second question - while looking for the videos I came across a piece that showed an Atlas Horz Mill and you said that you were going to do a video on rebuilding it. I have the same Mill, or perhaps one slightly bigger, and would love to rebuild it, but to do so I would need the guidance I could get from your effort. Is that still a project that is planned, or has it been done, or is their some other info in that machine?
Not trying to be critical, just ...questions. Seems like there was a bit too much bluing used at times (it was smearing rather than printing) and several times I could see the tell-tale ‘bullseye’ pattern, a bright burnished peak surrounded by dense blue ring of ink. I thought you were supposed to use thinner and thinner coats of blue as you progressed through the stages (the thinnest prints when getting nearest to the end).
Also, you milled and ground some of the surfaces- at what point would you use turcite Ie to restore the lost material?
I'd be a little concerned that the compound screw is no longer in line with the thread in the base. You might need to bring that back up a little with some way material before making a new gib. This is particularly true with the thread being in the casting as there's no way to move the nut with shims or machining.
Is it really a problem on a small gib like that? Genuinely curious.
@@aserta It's not a gib problem so much as the original gib showing that there might be an alignment problem with the screw and nut. The nut is fixed in position in the base and the screw in the the top and milling and scraping the interface between the 2 has now significantly changed the alignment of the as shown by the undersize gib. That alignment needs to be restored before making a new gib
Why do you scrape both mating surfaces? Isn't a scraped surface against a machined surface sufficient for good oil retention?
In many cases yes, however the geometry involved is sometimes easier to finish by scraping than trying to grind all of the goofy angles and milling is not accurate enough, and the fixturing pressures required is prohibitive to accuracy. Two scraped surfaces have the advantage that both surfaces are broken up which means the load bearing high points bear the load for a moment and then it slides over a valley and gets lubricated and then back to contact and on and on, it greatly prolongs the life of the machine. Also when the speed is higher two scraped surfaces will force oil against each other promoting hydrodynamic lift, which is a zero wear condition, as the scraping pockets act as thousands of tiny oil wedges.
@@cgprecision good explanation.
mustn't the duck-tales also being parallele to the lead screw nut?
I am not sure it was right to blue it while it was being deformed in the vise?
When measuring tenths are you certain that the micrometer is straight? Or is there something I'm missing? No criticism, I'd really like to know.
Or rather - exactly perpendicular?
Don, you are exactly right and you can see him wiggling the mic as he is tightening the thumb screw. This finds the point where it is all square.
Thanks for that.
Do they make carbide files? Seeing how easily that cuts, I'd like to see a carbide file.
Severance makes a few different sizes and tooth counts, very expensive but very well made
It cuts easy because it is cast iron, not steel
Mike Kent I agree I will not stop watching Keith but scrapping is like watching weeds grow. Sorry Keith it something U need to no BUT,!!!!
Why would anyone downvote Keith?
It has been my experience that if I hand out $100 bills in a room full of people, 10% will complain about the color...
@@BuickDoc Or the size or how many they get.
Keith, I usually love your videos but i seem to have trouble getting in to the scraping vids.
I realize it's necessary for quality work and I'm sure there are others that find the whole scraping thing fascinating but it seems I'm just not one of them.
I guess if the scraping portions of your projects were a bit more abbreviated, I'd relate more but please, keep making content and I'll keep watching.
Thanks for what you do.
The skills of machine tool reconditioning, and scraping, which is part of the process, are dying out fairly rapidly as the current generation of those doing that work are retiring and passing on. Richard King is emphatic that we pass the skills along to the next generation, before they are forgotten and lost. Keith is doing a magnificent job of being a free instructor for passing on the skills, which are often not what they might appear to be, to us for free. Thank you , Keith!
@@duobob
I agree with everything you said.
But it doesn't change anything I said.
Peace!
You have the constitutional option to not watch the video. There's 10+ channels on TH-cam to supplement your ISSUES, regarding something that only affects a small portion of people who weren't taught better about complaining.
Keith, please don't abbreviate. IMO there's already too much of that in this very video (e.g. my other comment about jump cut at about 4:21). But do Title your scraping videos "scraping" (as you always have)
@@aserta
Hm, what you call complaining, aserta, I call feedback. Even so, I really appreciate the fact that you are around to remind me of my options. I certainly wouldn't want Keith's comment section to become a circus of people complaining about my "complaining".
Thanks for your input and have a really great day. ;)
An average will be .60
Didn't we see this same video a few months back?
That was the other plate that he's now using as a guide for this one.
You can tell Richard King has been to your shop!
You must be new here.
Scraping vids are not my favorites. That being said, I am not going to unsubscribe or anything. I just fast forward through most of these.
The focus required for scraping is similar to viewing, you got that right! I also speed the video up 2X as he speaks fairly slowly so even at 2x he is completely understandable.
I bet +/- 0.060" is good enough for anything you do. You probably should be watching carpentry videos.
Danny Zuko I understand the importance of scrapping, But its it’s kind of like watching the paint dry. It is not a very good spectator sport.
That's because you don't need this. Some of us do. That being said, i don't understand the need to say something about unsubbing to a free channel that costs you ZERO to keep subbed to.
What am I missing? Why don't these surfaces need to be polished?
Polished sliding surfaces "aren't very good" because of stiction and because it forces all of the oil out of the interface. (There are cases when that doesn't apply, but most of the time you don't want polished surfaces.) Do some research on scraping and why it is still used even on modern day machines.
My question IS my research into the topic.
@@stephengraves3275 The microscopic valleys that are left by scraping hold oil which allows more slippage between the surfaces. This is a very basic answer, but you can build upon it by watching more YT vids about scraping. 2 years ago I didn't see any point in scraping but I'm learning. And I'm 70. A person can always learn something. Hope this helps.
@@etheroar6312 Ya know I do understanding scraping..but something about hacking up a surface just won't work in my brain...?
Are you familiar with gage blocks and how they can be wrung together forming one stack that doesn't come apart? These gage blocks are very smooth or polished leaving almost no valleys. That is how they are able to hold together so no air or oil can be between them. With the valleys of 0.0001 inch there is room for oil to be between the surfaces and there are about 30 to 40 contact points per square inch on each face making contact with oil in the valleys. Not all contact points are identical and not in a pattern so sliding is smooth. I know I am long winded but that is what I understand of the process. Hope the explanation helps.
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Hello, I am searching for some T slot jaws for my 42 inch vertical lathe. Any leads would be appreciated.