Thanks for this very well done video. I purchased the Cardas copper wire tonearm rewire kit & your video I believe is the best. I'd also like to say people like yourself make it possible for me & others to have a go at these jobs & save some money as well. Thanks for spending time for other people's benefit. Victor O'Gorman.
I ve seen the 250 and the 300 is a little more complex. Fantastic video ,fully explained and very well filmed especially the soldering of the cartridge tags. No one else has shown this procedure in action on the internet .It will help many people ..I have both Rega arms 300 and 250 both out of action at the moment with either cartridge tag snapped or wiring damaged . I was wondering about if it was possible to buy and replace arm bearings whilst the arm was disassembled ? Or is that a specialist job needed tools ..?
The harness is the Achille's heel of Rega tonearm, vintage and new. The wiring is poorly made and from very cheap materials, even the 'fancy' ones with pompous labelling like 'extra low capacitance' and the cable shows 190pF during testing against the 75pF of our wires. On the other hand the bearings, though not of stellar quality, are precise and very durable. We never serviced an RBxxx bearing, never ever. Remove the vertical bearings in the RB300 require a specially made extractor, while in the RB250 a 'simple' micro extractor that can be purchased in specialistic shops. If not damaged I wouldn't touch the bearings at all..... Cheers Mark
Hi If you need a tutorial for rewire your Rega R200 (the only S shaped tonearm from Rega) the video is here: th-cam.com/video/Hr2Zbq1iwDQ/w-d-xo.html A range of rewire kits for all Rega tonearms is available here: www.thevinylsource.co.uk/ under the 'Shop' tag. Best regards Mark
To remove the plastic base you have to remove the armtube and the yoke. To do so you, first, have to remove the brass but visible inside the main pillar after you removed all the wiring. This nut not only keeps in place the yoke/armtube compound, but it works as an adjustment nut for the tension and the vertical play of the two bearings responsible for the horizontal movement, proceed with care. Hope it helps Mark
Maybe in England still have the "Biliton" soldering wire 60/40 NOT THAT CRAP WITHOUT LEAD . Use it ! Otherwise there is some liquid flux in small bottles with a tiny brush. Cover the end of the wires BEFORE TRY TO TIN IT ! Good luck
I don't use solder with silver instead of lead, that was, and is, designed to be used by plumbers to avoid water contamination and never was meant to be used for wire soldering, but the 'high-end' audio dealers sell it for a premium... That's the audio market today. Cheers Mark
@@TheAudioSanityChannel-ym7ij I'm engineer in electronics. Bilitone and Multicore LMP are THE BEST for Hi-End (after almost 50 years of experience) . With your permission of course
Thanks to you my tonearm us now rewired... nice one
Thanks for this very well done video. I purchased the Cardas copper wire tonearm rewire kit & your video I believe is the best. I'd also like to say people like yourself make it possible for me & others to have a go at these jobs & save some money as well. Thanks for spending time for other people's benefit. Victor O'Gorman.
Thank you for this tutorial, I ve been waiting for one like this for years! Cheers
You are most welcome mate!
I ve seen the 250 and the 300 is a little more complex. Fantastic video ,fully explained and very well filmed especially the soldering of the cartridge tags. No one else has shown this procedure in action on the internet .It will help many people ..I have both Rega arms 300 and 250 both out of action at the moment with either cartridge tag snapped or wiring damaged . I was wondering about if it was possible to buy and replace arm bearings whilst the arm was disassembled ? Or is that a specialist job needed tools ..?
The harness is the Achille's heel of Rega tonearm, vintage and new.
The wiring is poorly made and from very cheap materials, even the 'fancy' ones with pompous labelling like 'extra low capacitance' and the cable shows 190pF during testing against the 75pF of our wires.
On the other hand the bearings, though not of stellar quality, are precise and very durable.
We never serviced an RBxxx bearing, never ever.
Remove the vertical bearings in the RB300 require a specially made extractor, while in the RB250 a 'simple' micro extractor that can be purchased in specialistic shops.
If not damaged I wouldn't touch the bearings at all.....
Cheers
Mark
Excellent video, very professional.
I hope to rewire my S shaped Rega Plannar 3 arm.
Do you have any contacts for wiring suppliers?
Hi
If you need a tutorial for rewire your Rega R200 (the only S shaped tonearm from Rega) the video is here: th-cam.com/video/Hr2Zbq1iwDQ/w-d-xo.html
A range of rewire kits for all Rega tonearms is available here: www.thevinylsource.co.uk/ under the 'Shop' tag.
Best regards
Mark
What about the rubber grommets? Do they not go back in
Very helpful. Once the arm tube is removed, is it possible to remove and replace the black plastic base? Unfortunately the one on my RB300 is cracked.
To remove the plastic base you have to remove the armtube and the yoke.
To do so you, first, have to remove the brass but visible inside the main pillar after you removed all the wiring.
This nut not only keeps in place the yoke/armtube compound, but it works as an adjustment nut for the tension and the vertical play of the two bearings responsible for the horizontal movement, proceed with care.
Hope it helps
Mark
Maybe in England still have the "Biliton" soldering wire 60/40 NOT THAT CRAP WITHOUT LEAD . Use it ! Otherwise there is some liquid flux in small bottles with a tiny brush. Cover the end of the wires BEFORE TRY TO TIN IT ! Good luck
I don't use solder with silver instead of lead, that was, and is, designed to be used by plumbers to avoid water contamination and never was meant to be used for wire soldering, but the 'high-end' audio dealers sell it for a premium... That's the audio market today.
Cheers
Mark
@@TheAudioSanityChannel-ym7ij I'm engineer in electronics. Bilitone and Multicore LMP are THE BEST for Hi-End (after almost 50 years of experience) . With your permission of course