Unlicensed handy guy here. I can't count the number of times in the last 30 years that I've opened a box in an awkward, hard-to-reach location to find old, already-too-short wires which break when untwisted and have no slack. You know what I'm talking about; a long day with lots of cursing. Then about 14 years ago I discovered Wago and all that changed. Now I carry 2- 3- and 5-position 221-series connectors in my kit at all times. I still use Marrettes (uh, wire nuts) on occasion, but never when I'm attaching a stranded wire to a solid wire as you are in this video; and when I say _never_ I mean _almost never._ I know some old-timers and their protégés scoff at lever nuts and that's fine by me because I love 'em, and if I never again find myself craning my neck at a ceiling box, trying to finagle some old, brittle, too-short wires into wire nut at the limit of my arms reach... it will be too soon. Wago FTW.
Straight up and down gang. I can deal with them not all being the same , I have a helper that does not understand the finer details yet 😥 and its easier to fix than bitch at a good worker. Also no particular way to me is better than all horizontal and going back 5-10 years later and nasty people not dusting their shit and it just collects and collects in the slots lol. Super gross but that's the joy of service work. Some people's houses are just gross and the craziest part was going in 500k homes and it being dirty . Always blew my mind. Never put them horizontal if youre taking the time to put them facing the same way please it gets gross quick.
Leave the wires long (10-12") and learn how to "work the corners". For example, lay all your grounds to the very back of the box, bring them down to the lower left corner, then bring them out and cut all to the same length. I like to have a fistful of wire before I cut and make my pigtails a similar length. Repeat for your neutrals and hots, using different corners where possible. If you learn how to fold a bundle of wires as a group, they won't try and fight you when you fold them in. It's an art, and you'll impress the youngsters. You are also helping out the next guy who needs to go into that box.
Do your grounds first. Try wago (push connectors) and group the wire ends before you snip and splice them to the same length and you will start making really nice looking splices up to code. Doing twisted splices (even if you dont need to twist per code) is a technique that is difficult, time consuming and not every pro can do it pretty even if it's right. Wagos don't seem right to pro installers at first, but nothing does. I still do lots of twisted splices and have to stuff them. My wago work looks like textbook everytime.
@@shanemooon He always uses wire nuts for any junction boxes on walls, like switches and outlets, and uses push-in connectors that come with some light fixtures. Also, he's an electrician. He's trained to use wire nuts properly. As a DIYer myself, I still use wire nuts for solid wire connections, but I have started using wago lever nuts for any stranded wire connections.
I'm not an electrician, but I started using Wago's on fixtures that use stranded wire rather then trying to wire nut them to solid copper. I really dont trust the connection they make with wire nuts. I've pulled alot of old connections out in my house where the stranded wires were all destroyed under the wire nut. I can only assume whoever did it previously over tightened it or didnt install them properly. Wago's really do some nice and easy and secure connections, just pricey.
I sure wish I had seen this a month ago LOL. I watched a number of videos before trying to do that and none gave any indication what it really was going to be like. Or mentioned (in trying to pry the nails out) could break the damn box forfitting the option to change my mind. 😆 And that stuffed to the gill's Box! Bless you for showing a real life situation. You are mentioning and showing every single thing I have had to figure out the hard way. There would have been much less angst, fear and trepidation had I seen this one video alone. I don't foresee changing a Box any less of an ordeal (they can be) after viewing but I'd be a lot better prepared for it. And I sure like seeing and hearing an experienced professional acknowledge it is not always a peice of cake. Mahalo about the fixture ears! Something I forgot and inevitably will revisit a box or two. (A perfectionist and wonky screwless cover drives me nuts.) Well done! Mahalo, glad I had already subscribed.
I like what you said about not half assing steps because more than likely you will have to go back and fix them when you could have taken a couple extra seconds to start off with.
Never knew there was an actual code item regarding screws. We've all done it...LOL. That's pretty neat. In the low-voltage arena, we'll use 1" drywall screws all day long.
Dustin, I'm a dirty DIYer but you taught me most of what I know. This 2-gang to 3-gang nonsense... the story of MY LIFE! If I run into you some day, beers are on me. You da man!
@@tommymack3210 why are they against them? They’re UL listed. I like wire nuts too for most things but sometimes wagos come in handy. You can use both, depending on the application…
@@tommymack3210 Residential guys get all worked up over them but literally all of industry uses spring cage terminal technology and Wago is one of the industry leaders, and my personal go to for terminals and din rail gear. The problem with the 221s and similar is all the knockoffs people use that look the same but are not. In my opinion the spring cage or lever nuts are far easier to get right than wire nuts. If I made $100 every time I opened a box and literally had wire nuts fall out I would be rich, mostly because DIYers don't know how to install them correctly.
As an electrician and EE, I almost always put a 2 gang box in new work wherever a single gang would normally go. The extra capacity means I'm not gonna be stuffed beyond code, I can work more easily during install or in the future. Instead of blank plates to cover the unused gang.i like to hardwire a nightlight in there. It's also nice to be able to add an outlet or other permanent device such as an LED driver in a few minutes without much effort - especially cause I also like use wagos with at least one spare port (if I have 3 wires to connect I put a 4 port wago in and never risk breaking the existing wires when I untwist/retwist a wire nut). FYI. I try not to add a box if I don't need to with all the available devices today. Most always it's gonna mean much more than adding a gang, so I may even look to do a wireless switch and place it flush against the existing wall and use a 3 gang plate. Since the switch is not loaded or wired it need not be in a box when under code. The transmitter and receiver may cost 10x what a ordinary one does,.still cheaper than your time on old work. Work smart & safe ladies and gents!
Watching you futz around with getting the wires into that 3G Old work box made me feel good. I thought I was just crappy at it. Here it just comes with the territory.
Just done my 1 nail in to 3 pop in 2 weeks ago. Added a bath fan and controlled the light and fan separately while keeping the vanity light on its own. My house is from the early 90's and the installer cut the wires insanely short.Good knowledge brother learned alot from you.
Bro you look so much better and sound so much happier that the first time I saw you when you were working in your garage when the drywall wasn’t put up yet. I don’t know how long ago that was but dang you look good God bless buddy.
@@ElectricianU def’y agree with @Robert Mclendon. I’m not an electrician, but I work closely with them in a large Datacenter. When they’re running new 20/30/50 amp whips, or setting up multiple service types in 1 rack [some of our gear needs 3-phase 220, some needs single phase 110], or pulling low voltage wires for me to terminate - it’s incredibly helpful for me to have at least a passing understanding of what they’re doing, and the inherent limitations. Your content has been great for preventing me from requesting things prohibited by the laws of physics, and to better understand the aspects of the environment I don’t support/am not responsible for. Much obliged, thank you!
When you were finishing up At 16:00 , My wife would have noticed that the center switch had discolored slightly and didn’t match the other two switches. Another trip to Home-depot.
I worked electrical at Home Depot. Those customers made me hate my very existence. "Why is the faceplate a different shade of white than the switch?" Please just shoot me in the head and end this. IDK, when you're paying 38 cents for a switch, I'm thinking batch coloring isn't a high control item in the quality control department.
Good job! I have found it helpful to add 3" wide painters tape around the entire box area before demolition & reinstallation to help protect the existing paint job. A soft wood stick, like a stirring stick aids in folding & stuffing the wires to the box rear.
Noticed that you have a copy of Electricity 1-7, in your shop. 1983 I got a copy when I took a Power Engineering course. I further used it in the 90’s when I did my electrical apprenticeship. Hold dearly to that book, as it is a gold mine, and well written.
I love when customer comes into room after I have removed all the wires and there in utter amazement that I will get them all back together and everything works as it should.
I have learned so much from watching your videos. Done a 50 an 30 rv hook up. Now I'm going to be putting a new breaker box in my barn, that I have run new wires for outlets and switches. Thanks for all you do. You keep me from getting electrocuted!
Quick note, when you cut in a new box, or go from 2 to 3 gang cut in,like the video, ALWAYS make your horizontal cut first! It will minimize patching in case you hit a stud.
My preference with junction boxes if the steel kind that has knock outs on the side for cables with collars and top ones that line-up with the box top and box bottoms. These are available with an outside box flange with a tightening screw bolt inside the box. After the box is set in the wall, the screws can force the flange to tighten up to secure the box.
Looks like the 2 gang was overfilled. Also looks like you installed a deep 3 gang. Good topics to address for your viewers to help them with full understanding. I like your style of explanation. Thanks.
Easiest way is to put in a single pole/single pole switch. Still love the video and it's still is a better because you have room for more expansion. Been a fan from day one Dustin.
When my son was about 11 years old he entered a Jaycee Relay Race. He’d never ran track before and didn’t know everybody wore shorts. He came in jeans, to everyone’s amusement. He ran the last leg for his team - and came away the fastest runner of the day, and made up considerable distance to win. This video made me think of that day. How I wish I had been able to see it, instead of only hear and read about it. I was a single mom and had to work. My son was an amazing athlete. ❤️
watching this as an electrician from germany its mindblowing how easy it can be to expand a switch box since around 85 precent of the switch box are embedded in concret.
Quality in workmanship by placing the cover screws all facing up and down. I always make them vertical as well. if they are horizontal the dirt from a dirty hand might get stuck in the slot.
I did not know about the drywall screws. I have seen them and used them with a stripped out hole, otherwise done right. I appreciate you clocking the wall plate screws. Very satisfying to my CDO. Nice work and keep up the great videos!
At 12:55 I'm like WTF!? You had me there. No excuse for not having a bunch of long 6-32's in your bag, that can be cut down with most wire strippers if you need to. The next person working on it will appreciate not having to deal with a drywall screw hack job.
I call this a PG & E sub station! Glad I'm NOT the only one who has had this problem. I cannot even get a dimmer to properly fit in the box. I sometimes use stranded wire to allow more flex and use electrical tape on the wire nuts.
lol, unbreakable wallplates, that funny. I used to work for Leviton where we made unbreakable plastic wallplates. At least once a day they would get stuck in the packaging machine and we would rip them out by hand and snap them in two.
I can totally relate to this video. My house had 3 different 3-gang boxes that never sat right... weren't flush with the drywall, so the cover plate was all wonky. I finally replaced the last one with a remodel box just like that. Chipping out the old (fiberglass?) box was easy... surprisingly so. They're pretty fragile and break apart in big chunks (many which are now between the studs somewhere). I'm a fan of Wago connectors when it comes to cramming all those wires back in, but I also tape them to make sure the levers don't accidentally come up in the process of tucking all the wires back. It's happened... ask me how I know. :) And speaking of cramming all the wires in, that's why I prefer to tape around the outlets to cover the screw terminals. It would be just my like that I get it all shoved back, just manage to get the outlets and switches to seat properly, and then notice a stray ground wire worked it 's way over to the hot side of something. I mean, I wouldn't leave it there in any case, but it makes me feel better knowing there's something there in case I didn't notice it right away before energizing the circuit. Also, another "ask me how I know", but let's say you're working in an old house and you're in a 3-gang box that has multiple circuits... make sure you shut off the breaker for *all* of the wires in there. :) I use a non-contact voltage detector, but sometimes you have a funky 3-way wiring setup that leaves a floating neutral going through a dimmer on the far end... it may not detect voltage, but trust me, it'll be there when you least expect it.
I'm not sure what term electricians have for loose strands of wires like you pointed out in the video, but in car audio theyre called widow makers! You get a strand arcing from the power to ground on a powerful sound system, and you have a toasted amp if youre lucky. If you're unlucky that car is burning to the ground.
Love your videos. One observation from California, the box you removed was a new work box. The box you installed was an old work box. Old work has the tabs. Lee Lighting and Electric-
It was enjoyable watching you work. I noticed you using what looked like a Klein mult-itool. I remember in another of you videos you said you hate them. However, it's one of my favorite tools. Just a comment, definitely not a criticism. I love watching your videos
@Electrical U agreed on working live 99% of the time there is no need to work live even industrial environments. My employer uses medium voltages in their test labs to test a UUT and they even discourage working live due to the risk to life. They have all the appropriate PPE to do so when it's absolutely necessary to do so though.
16:00 Finally, another tech that pays attention to the orientation of the slots in the cover plate fasteners. I see that and it indicates that the stuff you can't see is likely done properly as well.
In order to group multiple wires together, have you used the wago lever lock connectors instead of wire nuts? Ul listed and take up less space in crowded boxes...
He probably has. It's just that wago's are much less popular in the U.S. I have heard they are popular in Europe. Still, most electricians if not all in the U.S have used a wago before. I think they're even considered to be better than wirenuts.
Wago 221 connectors! I love those things. Super small, fast, easy installation and removal. No worries about a wire pulling free, and they're clear so you can see if the wire is in all the way. They even have a printed stripping guide and recessed probe point. The only two catches are that you should use ferrules with stranded wire, and that they're about $0.30 a pop.
Been watching your videos for a while now and gotta day they deffintly have helped me understand electrical work alot more. I am currently in electrician trade school, only have 2 months in and watching your videos has helped me alot understand alot of material that can get complicated. Especially ohm's law lol. Just want to say thanks and keep making videos brother, im excited to one day become an electrical apprentice and hopefully a master electrician in the future. You should donsome zoom training i would deffintly pay for that. Thanks again for all the very informative videos.
Dang interesting. I've only just started going to trade school as an electrician, and it's pretty fascinating to see that everything I've learned in the past month is relevant on the job. Nice knowing that using dry wall screws is a nec violation, cuz I contemplated using them on my lab project when my box was missing the needed screws.
I love the channel and I have learned so much. I want to do this exact same thing in my home however I have an old house which has metal boxes and metal conduit, so I really don't know how to tackle this
those boxes are easy to remove. Most older homes have metal boxes, which used to give me grief, until i started sneaking a sawzall blade on the side to cut the nails or metal bracket used to hold them in place.
When wires are too short, I use Knipex end strippers in combination with OTC CrimPros. The end strippers can fit back in the box to strip if I need more length, while the 90deg head of the CrimPros fits back in the box to crimp on a butt splice connector and extend the wire with a new pigtail.
Great video by the way me being a cabinetmaker for most of my life. I seen drywall screws used to hold devices through backsplashes and cabinets by other cabinetmakers. we carry extra machine screws and little bit longer. Nobody wants sharp points inside electrical boxes can damage the wires. Like you say no explosion in the electrical box.
Home gamer here, my house has a ton of that old rat nest weird stuff. Great video; explaining the jumpers for constant hot to work around having only a 2 gang was cool. Would have enjoyed a bit more commentary on what was going on as you untangled everything else. It looked like grouped neutrals, but not totally sure?
Dude. Time to graduate and start using wago wire nuts. It’s 2022. I love lighting panels. Wire everything at one central location all laid out perfectly. And just have one data line going to a wall switch that can be programmed to do anything. And you don’t have to go with a super expensive Lutron or control4 or crestron lighting for that. You can just put all your switches in one location in the home and use cheaper Bluetooth mesh switches where you can program any button to anything.
I absolutely agree with not working on live circuits. But there are situations like office buildings/hospitals/industrial buildings where turning off whole panels is not an option.
This can be a really satisfying project to do. But from experience, the cables are always barely long enough to get back in the new box after demo. Always good to leave a little courtesy loop for this reason.
If it’s original construction then the Romeo is required to be fastened close to the box which can make the loop infeasible. There are options but it’s tough.
A bit of technical trivia: I wanted to add a second full-size switch to an existing single. My 1938 house was wired with conduit and metal boxes. They used 2-gang boxes with single-gang plaster rings. I figured I would just replace the single ring with a double, chipping out the plaster. Easy peasy? Of course not. The screw layout on the ca. 1938 metal boxes is different and incompatible with current metal boxes. I have no idea when that changed, or if 2-gang plaster rings for the "old" configuration are available - or what to even call it. So I ended having to dig out the old box entirely and replace it. Something to be aware of if you are dealing with old houses.
Very useful peice of information. Often times, some old electrical systems new huge overhauls being that code violations can render wiring, devices, and equipment material in violation. It's usually never a simple fix in my experience.
Is one of many surprises or frustrations in my experience. Made a whole lot of incorrect assumptions, assuming I could find what I was looking for just one. I will add to be careful to check each and every fixture is what you think it is. Things get put in the wrong place either by customers and even store stockers. I have also been handed what the floor assistant has incorrectly assumed is in the right place or what I asked for. But I hate shopping to start with. 😁 And discovering at the last minute have the wrong thing necessitating stop and make another trip, the tiresome process of returns (almost always having to wait patiently up to half an hour despite next and even 1st in line) and repeating the process of purchasing. I've kept a number of incorrect purchases purchases over the years simply for the sake of expediency. It's not a problem for a $1.50 bargain receptacle, it is when in the $15 - >$30.
Great video! Would love to see how you tackle a similar job using aluminum splice kits for old aluminum NM cable.. several older homes in my area have this situation and used small metal nail up boxes. Such a pain
As far as a DOD Electrical contractors, I always suggest to the government that we should install a Square D disconnect switch up to isolate the machine in case we need to work inside the unit in the future.
The unbreakable plates warp away from the wall here in the summer humidity, older house. Particularly single gang outlet, e.g. single screw center, so much so on the right day I can slide a finger behind them. Had to change them all out due to kids.
My go to’s for saving space in a box are to use as small wire nuts as possible for pig tails, if that’s still to big I’ll use a wago terminal and if that’s too big I’ll use a butt connector that’s listed and rated for the load.
It's always easier than replacing 1 gang nail on with 1 gang pop in, 2 gang with 2 gang, or etc since you can take advantage of the hole you cut for the larger box
I like to have an assortment of 6/32, 8/32, and 10/32 screws on hand. I may run into an older box with a different screw size, need a longer or shorter screw, or may have lost one...or have to replace the drywall screw someone used
Can you please show how to replace an old metal box behind plaster/lathe? So far I've tried a saws-all with metal blade to cut the sides of the boxes. There's got to be a better way though.
Thanks for the video next time can you go into more detail on which 12/2 or 12/3 wires that was in the birds nest go to which receptacle thanks that part confused me a bit
ive done few live outlet swaps before. yes its like playing operation. burnt tips off needle nose pliers before. that tripped the breaker. Never got shocked. But yes just shut off breaker. and if you cant shut off breaker for some reason like you will shut done half a server farm..... hire someone with LOTS experience doing live swaps. it can be done and ive done it several times. but i would not recommend it.
Unlicensed handy guy here. I can't count the number of times in the last 30 years that I've opened a box in an awkward, hard-to-reach location to find old, already-too-short wires which break when untwisted and have no slack. You know what I'm talking about; a long day with lots of cursing.
Then about 14 years ago I discovered Wago and all that changed. Now I carry 2- 3- and 5-position 221-series connectors in my kit at all times. I still use Marrettes (uh, wire nuts) on occasion, but never when I'm attaching a stranded wire to a solid wire as you are in this video; and when I say _never_ I mean _almost never._
I know some old-timers and their protégés scoff at lever nuts and that's fine by me because I love 'em, and if I never again find myself craning my neck at a ceiling box, trying to finagle some old, brittle, too-short wires into wire nut at the limit of my arms reach... it will be too soon.
Wago FTW.
Lever wago for stranded to solid works great.
Loved the drywall screw bit!! Haha I was like no way is he really going to do this!!
We've all done it before lol
In the past where a receptacle has been pulled out and the box is broken I have used drywall screws to fix it. Never had a problem.
Hell I didn't even know that was a code section. On a service if we have no 6-32s we usually do drywall screws all day long
@@ianhabiuk9848 yeah but service calls don't get inspected lol
Me too
Extra points for having your slotted cover plate screws facing the same direction.
hahaha i was gonna say the same thing 😂😂😂
Straight up and down gang. I can deal with them not all being the same , I have a helper that does not understand the finer details yet 😥 and its easier to fix than bitch at a good worker. Also no particular way to me is better than all horizontal and going back 5-10 years later and nasty people not dusting their shit and it just collects and collects in the slots lol. Super gross but that's the joy of service work. Some people's houses are just gross and the craziest part was going in 500k homes and it being dirty . Always blew my mind. Never put them horizontal if youre taking the time to put them facing the same way please it gets gross quick.
That was awesome! I would love content on how to stuff a box like a pro. For me it feels like there is never enough space in a box.
They make deep cut in boxes for residential that are pretty nice
Leave the wires long (10-12") and learn how to "work the corners".
For example, lay all your grounds to the very back of the box, bring them down to the lower left corner, then bring them out and cut all to the same length. I like to have a fistful of wire before I cut and make my pigtails a similar length.
Repeat for your neutrals and hots, using different corners where possible.
If you learn how to fold a bundle of wires as a group, they won't try and fight you when you fold them in. It's an art, and you'll impress the youngsters.
You are also helping out the next guy who needs to go into that box.
Do your grounds first.
Try wago (push connectors) and group the wire ends before you snip and splice them to the same length and you will start making really nice looking splices up to code.
Doing twisted splices (even if you dont need to twist per code) is a technique that is difficult, time consuming and not every pro can do it pretty even if it's right.
Wagos don't seem right to pro installers at first, but nothing does. I still do lots of twisted splices and have to stuff them. My wago work looks like textbook everytime.
The determined facial expressions made trying to put back in the wiring through the box lol😅 love it
When you pulled out the drywall screws I was like "No!! I had so much respect for you..." lol
As a DIYer, it's refreshing to see that old work really can be a pain in the butt, even for pros.
I am so very happy that you faced your flathead screws facing vertical rather than horizontal. It's just more aesthetically pleasing go me.
Ever think about using Wago with all the stranded wires connecting solid, not to mention the short wires. Easy and convenient.
Wagos have a tendency to overheat
Came here to say this. Surprised he’s still using wire nuts. Wago’s are my go to these days.
@@jkey3835 not true.
@@shanemooon He always uses wire nuts for any junction boxes on walls, like switches and outlets, and uses push-in connectors that come with some light fixtures. Also, he's an electrician. He's trained to use wire nuts properly.
As a DIYer myself, I still use wire nuts for solid wire connections, but I have started using wago lever nuts for any stranded wire connections.
@@Enigma96969 municipal regs dictate the use of wago. They are handy, I love them.
I'm not an electrician, but I started using Wago's on fixtures that use stranded wire rather then trying to wire nut them to solid copper. I really dont trust the connection they make with wire nuts. I've pulled alot of old connections out in my house where the stranded wires were all destroyed under the wire nut. I can only assume whoever did it previously over tightened it or didnt install them properly. Wago's really do some nice and easy and secure connections, just pricey.
I sure wish I had seen this a month ago LOL. I watched a number of videos before trying to do that and none gave any indication what it really was going to be like. Or mentioned (in trying to pry the nails out) could break the damn box forfitting the option to change my mind. 😆
And that stuffed to the gill's Box! Bless you for showing a real life situation.
You are mentioning and showing every single thing I have had to figure out the hard way. There would have been much less angst, fear and trepidation had I seen this one video alone. I don't foresee changing a Box any less of an ordeal (they can be) after viewing but I'd be a lot better prepared for it. And I sure like seeing and hearing an experienced professional acknowledge it is not always a peice of cake.
Mahalo about the fixture ears! Something I forgot and inevitably will revisit a box or two. (A perfectionist and wonky screwless cover drives me nuts.)
Well done! Mahalo, glad I had already subscribed.
I like what you said about not half assing steps because more than likely you will have to go back and fix them when you could have taken a couple extra seconds to start off with.
The guy even has the six plate screws facing the same direction 🥇🏆
Never knew there was an actual code item regarding screws. We've all done it...LOL. That's pretty neat. In the low-voltage arena, we'll use 1" drywall screws all day long.
Dustin, I'm a dirty DIYer but you taught me most of what I know. This 2-gang to 3-gang nonsense... the story of MY LIFE! If I run into you some day, beers are on me. You da man!
Great job! The wago 221s can help with the pigtailing of short wires and saving space in the box vs wire nuts.
I should report you
@@patrickmulcahy8123 why?
@@R900DZ because most american electricians are against wago connectors and love their nuts
@@tommymack3210 why are they against them? They’re UL listed. I like wire nuts too for most things but sometimes wagos come in handy. You can use both, depending on the application…
@@tommymack3210 Residential guys get all worked up over them but literally all of industry uses spring cage terminal technology and Wago is one of the industry leaders, and my personal go to for terminals and din rail gear. The problem with the 221s and similar is all the knockoffs people use that look the same but are not. In my opinion the spring cage or lever nuts are far easier to get right than wire nuts. If I made $100 every time I opened a box and literally had wire nuts fall out I would be rich, mostly because DIYers don't know how to install them correctly.
When he brought the drywall screws out I literally yelled at the phone. He got me good.
As an electrician and EE, I almost always put a 2 gang box in new work wherever a single gang would normally go. The extra capacity means I'm not gonna be stuffed beyond code, I can work more easily during install or in the future.
Instead of blank plates to cover the unused gang.i like to hardwire a nightlight in there.
It's also nice to be able to add an outlet or other permanent device such as an LED driver in a few minutes without much effort - especially cause I also like use wagos with at least one spare port (if I have 3 wires to connect I put a 4 port wago in and never risk breaking the existing wires when I untwist/retwist a wire nut).
FYI. I try not to add a box if I don't need to with all the available devices today.
Most always it's gonna mean much more than adding a gang, so I may even look to do a wireless switch and place it flush against the existing wall and use a 3 gang plate. Since the switch is not loaded or wired it need not be in a box when under code. The transmitter and receiver may cost 10x what a ordinary one does,.still cheaper than your time on old work.
Work smart & safe ladies and gents!
You know I’m bored when I’m a licensed electrician and watching videos of stuff I do daily 🤣 god damn covid making me go crazy
Watching you futz around with getting the wires into that 3G Old work box made me feel good. I thought I was just crappy at it. Here it just comes with the territory.
Just done my 1 nail in to 3 pop in 2 weeks ago. Added a bath fan and controlled the light and fan separately while keeping the vanity light on its own. My house is from the early 90's and the installer cut the wires insanely short.Good knowledge brother learned alot from you.
Bro you look so much better and sound so much happier that the first time I saw you when you were working in your garage when the drywall wasn’t put up yet. I don’t know how long ago that was but dang you look good God bless buddy.
I like that you show the whole process, and give lots of key tips. The code breakout was great too, keep doing that! Nobody else does that.
Thank you! Will do!
@@ElectricianU def’y agree with @Robert Mclendon. I’m not an electrician, but I work closely with them in a large Datacenter. When they’re running new 20/30/50 amp whips, or setting up multiple service types in 1 rack [some of our gear needs 3-phase 220, some needs single phase 110], or pulling low voltage wires for me to terminate - it’s incredibly helpful for me to have at least a passing understanding of what they’re doing, and the inherent limitations.
Your content has been great for preventing me from requesting things prohibited by the laws of physics, and to better understand the aspects of the environment I don’t support/am not responsible for.
Much obliged, thank you!
I always put the plate on backwards first and then flip it so it goes on perfect, tricks from the trade....... Tool is the best band ever.
Thanks Dustin! LOL, I shouted Nooooooo! when I saw the drywall screws. I've had to replace the nailed-in boxes before. Way too much fun.
When you were finishing up At 16:00 , My wife would have noticed that the center switch had discolored slightly and didn’t match the other two switches. Another trip to Home-depot.
I worked electrical at Home Depot. Those customers made me hate my very existence. "Why is the faceplate a different shade of white than the switch?" Please just shoot me in the head and end this. IDK, when you're paying 38 cents for a switch, I'm thinking batch coloring isn't a high control item in the quality control department.
My heart almost stopped when you were about to use them drywall screws 😳😨 lol good one!
Good job! I have found it helpful to add 3" wide painters tape around the entire box area before demolition & reinstallation to help protect the existing paint job. A soft wood stick, like a stirring stick aids in folding & stuffing the wires to the box rear.
I have never did it like that but I wish I had.
I use a tool called the Voltclaw. Great for pushing, pulling, and twisting wires without damage. I think I first saw it on This Old House.
Noticed that you have a copy of Electricity 1-7, in your shop. 1983 I got a copy when I took a Power Engineering course. I further used it in the 90’s when I did my electrical apprenticeship. Hold dearly to that book, as it is a gold mine, and well written.
Well done when you lined up the finish plate screws all vertical. I had to laugh as my wife was so meticulous about this detail.
Glad to see someone as OCD as me and must leave all of the plate screws the the slot in the vertical position.
This is why I love being an electrician. Thanks for the video. I always enjoy your content.
I love when customer comes into room after I have removed all the wires and there in utter amazement that I will get them all back together and everything works as it should.
I have learned so much from watching your videos. Done a 50 an 30 rv hook up. Now I'm going to be putting a new breaker box in my barn, that I have run new wires for outlets and switches. Thanks for all you do. You keep me from getting electrocuted!
Thank you for watching, my friend!
Quick note, when you cut in a new box, or go from 2 to 3 gang cut in,like the video, ALWAYS make your horizontal cut first! It will minimize patching in case you hit a stud.
Or just reach in with a piece of wire and make sure nothing is in the way.
You should know where your studs are before cutting regardless
My preference with junction boxes if the steel kind that has knock outs on the side for cables with collars and top ones that line-up with the box top and box bottoms. These are available with an outside box flange with a tightening screw bolt inside the box. After the box is set in the wall, the screws can force the flange to tighten up to secure the box.
Looks like the 2 gang was overfilled. Also looks like you installed a deep 3 gang. Good topics to address for your viewers to help them with full understanding. I like your style of explanation. Thanks.
Easiest way is to put in a single pole/single pole switch. Still love the video and it's still is a better because you have room for more expansion. Been a fan from day one Dustin.
When my son was about 11 years old he entered a Jaycee Relay Race. He’d never ran track before and didn’t know everybody wore shorts. He came in jeans, to everyone’s amusement. He ran the last leg for his team - and came away the fastest runner of the day, and made up considerable distance to win. This video made me think of that day. How I wish I had been able to see it, instead of only hear and read about it. I was a single mom and had to work. My son was an amazing athlete. ❤️
Bro wtf does that have to do with electrical work 😂
watching this as an electrician from germany its mindblowing how easy it can be to expand a switch box since around 85 precent of the switch box are embedded in concret.
Quality in workmanship by placing the cover screws all facing up and down. I always make them vertical as well. if they are horizontal the dirt from a dirty hand might get stuck in the slot.
I did not know about the drywall screws. I have seen them and used them with a stripped out hole, otherwise done right. I appreciate you clocking the wall plate screws. Very satisfying to my CDO. Nice work and keep up the great videos!
Love it! CDO! My day is now complete! (and I noticed the same .. I have to adjust all of the screws on my switch plates every 6 months or so)
At 12:55 I'm like WTF!? You had me there. No excuse for not having a bunch of long 6-32's in your bag, that can be cut down with most wire strippers if you need to. The next person working on it will appreciate not having to deal with a drywall screw hack job.
And remember that junction and ceiling boxes are 8-32; painful to find 6-32 “holding up” a light.
I call this a PG & E sub station! Glad I'm NOT the only one who has had this problem. I cannot even get a dimmer to properly fit in the box. I sometimes use stranded wire to allow more flex and use electrical tape on the wire nuts.
Great job as always. 404 was a nice refresher. Thanks for getting out the code book.
lol, unbreakable wallplates, that funny. I used to work for Leviton where we made unbreakable plastic wallplates. At least once a day they would get stuck in the packaging machine and we would rip them out by hand and snap them in two.
Amazing video! Thank you. May I also suggest? that it is also good practice to put electrical tape around the terminals for extra safety.
I can totally relate to this video. My house had 3 different 3-gang boxes that never sat right... weren't flush with the drywall, so the cover plate was all wonky. I finally replaced the last one with a remodel box just like that. Chipping out the old (fiberglass?) box was easy... surprisingly so. They're pretty fragile and break apart in big chunks (many which are now between the studs somewhere).
I'm a fan of Wago connectors when it comes to cramming all those wires back in, but I also tape them to make sure the levers don't accidentally come up in the process of tucking all the wires back. It's happened... ask me how I know. :) And speaking of cramming all the wires in, that's why I prefer to tape around the outlets to cover the screw terminals. It would be just my like that I get it all shoved back, just manage to get the outlets and switches to seat properly, and then notice a stray ground wire worked it 's way over to the hot side of something. I mean, I wouldn't leave it there in any case, but it makes me feel better knowing there's something there in case I didn't notice it right away before energizing the circuit.
Also, another "ask me how I know", but let's say you're working in an old house and you're in a 3-gang box that has multiple circuits... make sure you shut off the breaker for *all* of the wires in there. :) I use a non-contact voltage detector, but sometimes you have a funky 3-way wiring setup that leaves a floating neutral going through a dimmer on the far end... it may not detect voltage, but trust me, it'll be there when you least expect it.
Wago 221 connectors! Absolutely worth it.
I'm not sure what term electricians have for loose strands of wires like you pointed out in the video, but in car audio theyre called widow makers! You get a strand arcing from the power to ground on a powerful sound system, and you have a toasted amp if youre lucky. If you're unlucky that car is burning to the ground.
Love your videos. One observation from California, the box you removed was a new work box. The box you installed was an old work box.
Old work has the tabs.
Lee Lighting and Electric-
In residential production, hot checks and diagnosis & repair are always done hot. It's very rare that I ever turn the power off.
Me getting shocked has been the highlight of many peoples day's..!.
I really like the real like problems that bring your attention back to the NEC book.
It was enjoyable watching you work. I noticed you using what looked like a Klein mult-itool. I remember in another of you videos you said you hate them. However, it's one of my favorite tools. Just a comment, definitely not a criticism. I love watching your videos
@Electrical U agreed on working live 99% of the time there is no need to work live even industrial environments. My employer uses medium voltages in their test labs to test a UUT and they even discourage working live due to the risk to life.
They have all the appropriate PPE to do so when it's absolutely necessary to do so though.
16:00
Finally, another tech that pays attention to the orientation of the slots in the cover plate fasteners. I see that and it indicates that the stuff you can't see is likely done properly as well.
In order to group multiple wires together, have you used the wago lever lock connectors instead of wire nuts? Ul listed and take up less space in crowded boxes...
He probably has. It's just that wago's are much less popular in the U.S. I have heard they are popular in Europe. Still, most electricians if not all in the U.S have used a wago before. I think they're even considered to be better than wirenuts.
Another tip is you can use smaller wire nuts when it's just a dimmer wire and one 12 or 14AWG wire to save space. I keep orange ones on hand.
Wago 221 connectors! I love those things. Super small, fast, easy installation and removal. No worries about a wire pulling free, and they're clear so you can see if the wire is in all the way. They even have a printed stripping guide and recessed probe point. The only two catches are that you should use ferrules with stranded wire, and that they're about $0.30 a pop.
metal 1900 two gang to metal three gang with conduit and connectors is where the fun starts. Nice video
@Electrical U could you do this video again in the future but for metal gang boxes for homes build in the 60s or 70s?
True electrician, squaring up the face plate screws!
Been watching your videos for a while now and gotta day they deffintly have helped me understand electrical work alot more. I am currently in electrician trade school, only have 2 months in and watching your videos has helped me alot understand alot of material that can get complicated. Especially ohm's law lol. Just want to say thanks and keep making videos brother, im excited to one day become an electrical apprentice and hopefully a master electrician in the future. You should donsome zoom training i would deffintly pay for that. Thanks again for all the very informative videos.
Dang interesting. I've only just started going to trade school as an electrician, and it's pretty fascinating to see that everything I've learned in the past month is relevant on the job.
Nice knowing that using dry wall screws is a nec violation, cuz I contemplated using them on my lab project when my box was missing the needed screws.
I love the channel and I have learned so much. I want to do this exact same thing in my home however I have an old house which has metal boxes and metal conduit, so I really don't know how to tackle this
those boxes are easy to remove. Most older homes have metal boxes, which used to give me grief, until i started sneaking a sawzall blade on the side to cut the nails or metal bracket used to hold them in place.
Bingo! That’s my method just have to proceed with caution.
When wires are too short, I use Knipex end strippers in combination with OTC CrimPros. The end strippers can fit back in the box to strip if I need more length, while the 90deg head of the CrimPros fits back in the box to crimp on a butt splice connector and extend the wire with a new pigtail.
I was thinking this is okay for a ground but not for hot or neutral.
Great video by the way me being a cabinetmaker for most of my life. I seen drywall screws used to hold devices through backsplashes and cabinets by other cabinetmakers. we carry extra machine screws and little bit longer. Nobody wants sharp points inside electrical boxes can damage the wires. Like you say no explosion in the electrical box.
That box reminds of those bakelite boxes we had in the late 80s 90s.
Home gamer here, my house has a ton of that old rat nest weird stuff. Great video; explaining the jumpers for constant hot to work around having only a 2 gang was cool. Would have enjoyed a bit more commentary on what was going on as you untangled everything else. It looked like grouped neutrals, but not totally sure?
Dude. Time to graduate and start using wago wire nuts. It’s 2022. I love lighting panels. Wire everything at one central location all laid out perfectly. And just have one data line going to a wall switch that can be programmed to do anything. And you don’t have to go with a super expensive Lutron or control4 or crestron lighting for that. You can just put all your switches in one location in the home and use cheaper Bluetooth mesh switches where you can program any button to anything.
@6:30 the faces every electrician makes while working
bro I died when the drywall screw part came up 🤣
Wow those switches lined up nicely when you put that plate on. Was that the first try??
I absolutely agree with not working on live circuits. But there are situations like office buildings/hospitals/industrial buildings where turning off whole panels is not an option.
Am I the only one who saw the comically large battery on the impact? Hilarious!
I like how you roll sir...
This can be a really satisfying project to do. But from experience, the cables are always barely long enough to get back in the new box after demo. Always good to leave a little courtesy loop for this reason.
If it’s original construction then the Romeo is required to be fastened close to the box which can make the loop infeasible. There are options but it’s tough.
@@jimk5307 well, it wouldn't be infeasible. If the staples are close enough to the hole in the wall I can pry them out with a hand tool.
A bit of technical trivia: I wanted to add a second full-size switch to an existing single. My 1938 house was wired with conduit and metal boxes. They used 2-gang boxes with single-gang plaster rings. I figured I would just replace the single ring with a double, chipping out the plaster. Easy peasy? Of course not. The screw layout on the ca. 1938 metal boxes is different and incompatible with current metal boxes. I have no idea when that changed, or if 2-gang plaster rings for the "old" configuration are available - or what to even call it. So I ended having to dig out the old box entirely and replace it. Something to be aware of if you are dealing with old houses.
Very useful peice of information. Often times, some old electrical systems new huge overhauls being that code violations can render wiring, devices, and equipment material in violation. It's usually never a simple fix in my experience.
Is one of many surprises or frustrations in my experience. Made a whole lot of incorrect assumptions, assuming I could find what I was looking for just one.
I will add to be careful to check each and every fixture is what you think it is. Things get put in the wrong place either by customers and even store stockers. I have also been handed what the floor assistant has incorrectly assumed is in the right place or what I asked for.
But I hate shopping to start with. 😁 And discovering at the last minute have the wrong thing necessitating stop and make another trip, the tiresome process of returns (almost always having to wait patiently up to half an hour despite next and even 1st in line) and repeating the process of purchasing.
I've kept a number of incorrect purchases purchases over the years simply for the sake of expediency. It's not a problem for a $1.50 bargain receptacle, it is when in the $15 - >$30.
I recently ran across this and my supply house found me compatible covers.
Great video! Would love to see how you tackle a similar job using aluminum splice kits for old aluminum NM cable.. several older homes in my area have this situation and used small metal nail up boxes. Such a pain
Thank you for showing us the way you grenaded the original box out. Usually videos jump cut to the new box installed 😂
Loved the excitement on the code violation!!
As far as a DOD Electrical contractors, I always suggest to the government that we should install a Square D disconnect switch up to isolate the machine in case we need to work inside the unit in the future.
Good notification about the code violations on the control box fasteners . I was going a code 406.5 haha great coaching
Like your work ethics. Good stuff. Always nice to give a damn.
The unbreakable plates warp away from the wall here in the summer humidity, older house. Particularly single gang outlet, e.g. single screw center, so much so on the right day I can slide a finger behind them. Had to change them all out due to kids.
My go to’s for saving space in a box are to use as small wire nuts as possible for pig tails, if that’s still to big I’ll use a wago terminal and if that’s too big I’ll use a butt connector that’s listed and rated for the load.
Perfect timing! Looking to go from a 1 nail on to a 2 pop in. Was wondering how the heck to do this. Not gonna say it looks easy though.
It's always easier than replacing 1 gang nail on with 1 gang pop in, 2 gang with 2 gang, or etc since you can take advantage of the hole you cut for the larger box
thanks DUSTIN for your knowledge you make it look easy like the way you explain code violations very understanding you rock be safe keep rolling
I love the way he done it
But we can also use tiger grip box and just put it little far away from the 2 gang box by itself
I find most wire nuts draw stranded in fast, I usually set the stranded wire back about 1/16 of an inch and it draws the conductor in to the splice.
I hate those remodel boxes but I make them work … enough damn wiring in that box and I see you had the deep box so that made it better
I like to have an assortment of 6/32, 8/32, and 10/32 screws on hand. I may run into an older box with a different screw size, need a longer or shorter screw, or may have lost one...or have to replace the drywall screw someone used
Wago lever nuts and I like to think they save space.
First time here. Love the code violation add in😂
Can you please show how to replace an old metal box behind plaster/lathe? So far I've tried a saws-all with metal blade to cut the sides of the boxes. There's got to be a better way though.
Thanks for the video next time can you go into more detail on which 12/2 or 12/3 wires that was in the birds nest go to which receptacle thanks that part confused me a bit
i remember this code violation in a much earlier video always use the same type or the ones that come with the switch
ive done few live outlet swaps before. yes its like playing operation. burnt tips off needle nose pliers before. that tripped the breaker. Never got shocked. But yes just shut off breaker. and if you cant shut off breaker for some reason like you will shut done half a server farm..... hire someone with LOTS experience doing live swaps. it can be done and ive done it several times. but i would not recommend it.
I have to work on live a lot of the 23yrs in hvac for hospitals and data centers uv light screeners
What a nightmare looking box! Good video.
My customers appreciate that I don't constantly turn circuits off and inconvenience them simply to do simple, easy work.....