Where I live majority of the trails were made by dirt bikers and slowly became confiscated by the city to turn them into non motorized areas for hikers/bikers. But during the winter it’s legal to go just about anywhere on a snowmobile. Real shame
Around my area there’s no public land and it’s all OHV parks except 2 multi use Forest service trails that are also not dedicated for bikes. It’s sad so many places don’t do single track but cater to giant SxS drivers but think dirt bikes cause trail damage lol. Crazy how varied it is in different parts of the country/ world
@@colbymills4006 usually how it goes. They'll scream from the roof tops that there's plenty of places to ride away from cities/houses then they'll move into said riding places and complain until they're shut down.
@@liamwilson1948 No, it cannot happen, period. No motorcycle has started a fire from the exhaust exiting from the bike, it's all such bs. People have to go out and purchase a $300 muffler just to satisfy some stupid forest rule.
How about suspension set up. Have you set the sag for the rear? I recently took a suspension set up class and it was life changing. I already knew that sag was normally set between 105-110mm. After asking about set up for hard enduro the instructor suggested 110-115mm because of the tendency to use our feet to paddle through sections. The extra sag allows you to get a flatter footing and have more confidence in those areas. It also helped me immensely with the harder rock sections uphill/downhill. Sitting a smidge lower in the back allowed me, with my style of riding, to float the front so much better over everything in my path and just crawl with little to no slippage in the rear.
Quick Tip: The kickstand bolt on the new gen KTM's always back out. I would put some red Loctite on the threads to prevent this as long as you don't plan on changing the kickstand. I lost the bolt on my very first ride.
I just bought a Shinko 216SX as well. Recently switched to 140/80 size tires. Was running a Kenda Gnarly 140/80 and it was very good. About as soft as IRC JX8. The Shinko is a little more gummy versus those according to my tester. Should be good for this fall when leaves are down and everything stays damp.
If you feel like the chassis is too stiff, i’ve seen the KTM factory enduro team remove the upper of the two bolts on the frame to cylinder head mount. Supposed to make it flex a little more.
Have seen lots of guys do it, slightly skeptical to try. Not because it won't work, but my buddy's chassis has flexed so much the old bolts won't even align anymore. Not sure if I want to alter the shape of my frame or not haha
One thing that’s worked out good for me is safety wiring each pair of spokes together. Saves you from damage if one does break. I installed a tubeless valve stem in my rim to pop the bead. I ride in a lot of dust and sand so it keeps all of that out of the tire.
Emperor Racing makes a robust aluminum skid plate and pipe guard, if you decide you want more protection. They even make a plastic slider you can install on the bottom to make it slip easier.
I have a 2023 gasgas ec250 that I found the same thing with gearing. I have found the best setup for me is a 12/49. For the flowing trail you can tap a gear high and lug through the tighter corners and if you want to get in the pipe just a slight clutch pop and it screams. Then for the slow techie stuff it lugs amazingly. This setup is what I have found to be my happy medium.
Tip for mousse. If you have an old tube, cut the valve stem out and drill another hole so you can pop your bead with a regular valve and add lube through it without taking the tire on and off.
You need to go and have the bike re-flashed by the dealer, it should not load up like that. If you're planning on an ERM from TSP then just wait to do that, which would be the smart move.
Molecule skid plates made in Oregon, same materials, fits so much better. Uses oem mounts and the skid plates that use brackets already comes with tape installed You should reach out to them and try them
The new bike is turning out great. The first trail you rode to the lake is super gnarly. The last trail in this vid is also gnarly. I'm familiar with both. What a difference the gearing made. I'm heading to a race in Wyoming this weekend. Cheers
Id suggest drilling the mousse balls vs removing a couple of them to get a softer feel. If you remove them, it causes them to bunch up and create big gaps in the tire. Drilling them makes it softer and no gaps.
I'm moving to Montana...I am not a hard enduro rider per say but really enjoy the tougher technical stuff here in the SoCal desert. Definitely use Mousse front and rear for traction and flat prevention. Lot's of protection and ergonomics items that we all have to add to our bikes to make them solid. I did recently pull the trigger on the TSP ERM and it makes a huge difference in how the bike (I have a 2024 300 XC-W) performs. Have not yet installed the medium compression head as I wanted to really judge the ERM and must say on record it is way better than the stock map. Anyways my mind wanders...great video very well done.
Yo im central Wyoming based. I’m a new rider but would love to hit the trails with more experienced guys. Obviously up here winter is here most places if not on the way! But given the opportunity I’d love to drive couple hours north or meet in the middle and rip around!Igor not be something your into or may be but let me know! Could be a good time exploring and riding some trails!
something i would recommend and we do is enlarge that hole you drilled in your rear big enough to install a cut out tube valve stem. makes it so you can still set the bead but also keeps the dust and water and dirt out and extends the life of your bibs/ mousse balls a lot
It’s great seeing you go through the same progression I did with the new tbi bike. You will hear it a lot I’m sure but your best mod is easily the tsp erm. It will take that bike to some seriously crispy levels plus you get many other features with the erm. Best benefit not talked about as much is the fuel mileage improvements. Both mine and my riding buddy’s bikes were getting 18-20mpg now after the tuner it’s always right at 35mpg which is a huge help with the new gas tank design. Looking forward to seeing more videos. Hopefully we may see you on the trails up here in kalispell some day soon!
There's no way your MPG nearly doubled. Others have tested this and said 0 difference in MPG. You're riding different terrain or riding in a different way to see that difference. 35 MPG from a 2 stroke is only going to happen if you're cruising down fire roads.
I ran the 406xc series as well and those were the numbers I got. Riding buddy has same bike and no tune till second to last race and he was always stopping for fuel. Still a small sample size but it has worked amazing for us. The main benefit is cleaning up the richness and not having to clean the bike out like in kincades video but the erm has many other neat benefits and features.
I love my 24 300xcw, 120 hours. Been on 12/48 gearing for most of those hours, been riding the east us hard-enduro series an the bike is awesome. Ive had suspension valvled an k-tech bladder on rear, this helped in the faster technical hill climbs. Bikes are a lil fat on bottom but not a huge issue, jus keep it clean or send your ecu to TSP. Fuel mileage increases considerably after they re-flash the ecu, runs lil cleaner, an runs better overall with even more bottom
@@tylerhall3854 good insight, thanks. So you just had them reflash it without getting a head or anything? Have had a lot of comments recommending the ERM and head, but it’s cheaper just to sent it out and have them flash it yeah?
@@KincadePavich depends on if ur the guy that wants tinker with engine or set it an forget it. I did the ERM and medium head. Rode the bike with jus the tune an no head for awhile, its considerably better. Ive never used the ERM to change running characteristics which is what youd get from a reflash, their tune is pretty well spot on. The medium comp head is noticeable but not like the tune. After further research i later ordered a high comp insert. Forget what u know about old school 2-t and heads, the high comp on this bike actually makes the engine more linear with a decent chunk of bottom. If u like the extra tuning an diagnostic capabilities go for the ERM if not jus have it flashed an see what u think. Last time i looked there was no savings to buying the complete kit with the head or splitting it up an buying head later outside of shipping. If u do get a head dont piss about with medium get the high comp its awesome for hard-enduro, super smooth an keeps pulling when it shouldn't its like cheating. Im not a pro or A rider, I ride B I've finishing in top 25% of my class
@@x_apollyon2822 ethanol free 93 with vp maddative, haven't tried it without the vp maddative. 1k-2k above. Gonna try straight 93 w/o the additive this weekend, 🤞 for no ping lol
You should try TSP's oversized power valve cover if you're gonna get the ERM. It's a cheap part but does add some nice bottom end for hand enduro. I know ppl who had changed the stock gearing and then have actually gone back a tooth or 2 after installing both the ERM and the power valve cover. Glad Kinkade liked the 216SX, literally just got one last week to try on my '24 TE300. I also got the 216MX front fatty
For anyone with one of these, you can change the oil without removing the skid plate by sliding a slightly creased piece of cardboard under the oil drain and using it as a spillway into your used oil pan. This is how i change mine on my '23 250 xc-w and it works great and saves the time that would be spent removing the skid plate every time.
its really nice to see your trail etiquette!! idk if how you ride is common elsewhere but around where I'm from the dirt bikers could learn a thing or two from ya
Personally for me I think it’s your tyre choice, any bike without Michelin medium tyre’s + mousse combo on just doesn’t seem to perform as well. You get a well bedded in mousse and that tyre is like a trials tyre on rocks and steep stuff but is also fantastic everywhere else too and also last ages! The more savage looking your tread pattern is or how tall the tread is doesn’t always mean the best. Hence why the top extreme/hard enduro riders in the world all use Michelin tyre’s
Are you still happy with the 12 48 sprocket set up? I am stock gearing right now but have been looking to adjust as i blow through 1st, but then often am too fast for 2nd or too slow to be in 3rd.
When you had to clear it out...I think the stock map is the "rich" map. If you get the switch, I think you can switch to the leaner map and avoid that... maybe? I dont know. I notice my 24 spooges a lot more than id expect it to
One more upgrade that is almost a must I would highly recommend you get a rekluse auto clutch for your bike they don’t rob any power but come in handy when in really rough conditions and eliminate almost all tire slip because you don’t have to clutch it all the time
I've been thinking about getting the EE Stop/Start buttons. I noticed for the install you had the start on the left but in the video you moved it to the throttle side. Any reason for this? For the dead start races I figured having the start on the left would be better. Just curious
@@bryson_stafford I don’t disagree, but in reality that bike has to run in every elevation, on every continent with almost all types of “regular” gas with almost any rider on it. Although it’s not great to spend $1000 on a tsp head and tuner, it’s not unlike having to jet a carb depending on your situation. I spent way more on plastics, levers, chain, sprockets, buttons and gizmos than I needed to anyway when that bike is way better than anything I need anyway.
@@JOettel325 auto manufacturers can do it. They should at least make it so you can tune it then, if they can't tune it right. Carburetors don't compensate by design, so that's to be expected, but I expect my fuel injected by to work right from the factory. Also bikes with carbs come with additional jets and good dealers will set it up for your area. Train your dealers to set it up for the country of origin then if you can't do it right.
Hey Kincade, loving the video series on the 300! Quick question, You're not afraid to break the brake/clutch master cylinder perch with the SXS hand guard mount? I'm still debating whether to go full wrap HCM Mount handguards or open ended that attached to the brake/clutch. Thanks!
@@x_apollyon2822 hey man, what’s the concern of the clutch and brake perches with the SXS mounts? These do not mount to the brake and clutch perches. They’re their own mounts to the bars. That said I have also ran EE guards in the past that did utilize the brake/clutch perches with no issues. Biggest appeal to full wraps IMO are saving levers, with downsides of more width and no give if you hit something.
@@KincadePavich aah thanks for the prompt reply! I thought the sxs’s mounted to the perches. I just started enduro riding not long ago (noobie) and I’m debating whether getting sxs or cycra pro bend ultras on a HCM mount. I’m running the stock ktm hand guards and have smashed my pinkies a few times now, especially when I drop the bike with my hands still on the grips. Just wanted some input from someone with more experience, I’m not racing, just enduro riding for fun. Thanks 🙏
@@x_apollyon2822 I ran full wraps for a long time, and also ran them on my silver kings bike because I knew the bike would hit the ground. The faster you get, the less I’d recommend full wraps. Sounds like where you’re at right now you’d appreciate them. If you go full wraps I’d recommend ones that mount to the bars rather than replace the bar mounts. I had a set of those and whenever they hit something it can also tweak the bars which was annoying. Saves space on the bars though. Pros and cons.
Drill your second lock hole opposite the factory lock hole. You can also use a strap to cinch the first lock away from the rim so the bead can pull into the center for the final section at the second lock.
@@KincadePavich ah. Looked a little offset and you mentioned you needed to drill another hole for air because you used the valve stem hole for the lock. How do you like the balls compared to Michelin mousse?
@@zacharysmith7872 ah I mean yes you are correct it’s not perfectly 180° but it’s like 170° and didn’t warrant another hole IMO haha. I screwed up the air hole by not doing it perfectly center so I don’t want to make it any bigger, silly mistake on my end. Mousse balls are awesome! Similar result to normal mousse with more ability to customize
@@KincadePavich Good to know. I went to a 48 tooth rear, and feel like I can go lower. Ill try the 12 tooth front. Which front sprocket did you purchase?
Well, two strokes are much different than a 4 -strokes. Let me explain it to you from Top Dead Center (Highest point that a piston can reach in cylinder). So as we begin from this point, exhaust valve is closed, inlet valve is closed, only intake valve, so the mixture of air and fuel gets UNDER the piston, then it gets compressed by inlet valve being closed, as piston travels down it has "pre-compressed" the mixture, when piston reaches bottom dead center it spins crank. So the pre-compressed mixture gets into combustion chamber, cylinder , so still in bottom dead center; intake valve is closed, inlet and exhaust is open. (As you know 2 strokes require a mixture of fuel and Oil, oil doesnt gets burnt fully) So you flush the oil out with compressed and burnt fumes. I hope you understand everything pretty well (im a bad explainer).
The main thing non dirt bikers hate is the noise...electric bikes could save trail access but people won't buy them until it's too late. Just like you said in the video, when more hikers/non motorized users are on the trail, we get kicked off.
Ill never understand black rims on Enduro bikes, especially oem with their glossy coating. They look pike crap after 1-2 rides. Those urmosi wheels look cool, so hopefully they hold up to wear a little better than oem
It's a 2% overall change in gearing (-8% in front, +6% in back), I'm gonna call mostly placebo effect on this one :p Sick upgrades, that wheel set sounds sick.
No sir, smaller front sprocket is lower gearing and bigger rear sprocket is lower gearing. They’re inverse of each other. I’m not gonna do the math, but it’s a hugely significant change. Down one tooth in the front is similar to up 3 or 4 in the rear. So this would be like going from 13/45 to 13/52 if you want to look at it that way.
@@KincadePavich Right sorry my bad, that's huge! The math would be about 14% shorter total I think... but I've lost all credibility now 😆 1st must be insanely short, but I bet 3rd is a dream!
I’m looking for my first bike I have ridden before but it’s been a hot min any suggestions I don’t have a lot of money so it’s hard to find something for me
quick tip from a south african that rides alot in the dust!!! We instead of replacing the filter we just clean it in diezel and petrol or with filter cleaner and reoil it with filter oil after each ride... Your bike will never give you issues with not breathing well after that!!! just something we do here
He's switching to No Toil oil. It cannot be mixed with petroleum products, so need to start with a fresh new filter. He will clean and re-oil from here.
@@kingslymopeli1991 either way, you're still going to get better grip out of the sticky tires. There's always a trade off with any tire, that's why they make so many different compounds and threads 🤷♂️
@@kingslymopeli1991 You say yet to have grip problems but are you riding terrain like this? Remember that GoPro makes everything look more mellow than it is. Traction is essential through this stuff. A harder compound would spin.
9 hours break in oil is crazy haha I changed my oil and filter after every ride for the first 15 hours on my crf450. Oil changes are cheap compared to engine rebuilds, which is my train of thought. But for the price of a ktm I'd imagine they're built pretty well and would be reliable enough to handle longer intervals between oil changes.
That' was strange. I have the same bike but a 24 and have never had that issue. Seems like KTM mapped these again and now they might chop up (aka rich mapping) when going up gnarl for a while. Time for Two Stroke Performance ERM.
I clean my throttle frequently. Bar ends are to protect the throttle from damage. Do not prefer full wrap guards. Extra width is a disadvantage and they move the bars when hitting obstacles rather than flexing.
Check out slavens racing bike build 2024 300 he recaps the ecm to improve fuel mileage and help keep the bike from loading up awesome video can't wate to win the 200 and riding with you western guys!
You should try the Shinko 505 hybrid cheater, the best ones ive tried so far, they do the job and last longer than the 525. I pair that with a Bridgestone M59 in the front... you cant go wrong with this combo!!
@@StandlyRichards25 because they do I think. This bike is all lug. My 350 was definitely more torquey at higher RPMs than this bike. This bike has great low end torque at slow speeds.
Where I live majority of the trails were made by dirt bikers and slowly became confiscated by the city to turn them into non motorized areas for hikers/bikers. But during the winter it’s legal to go just about anywhere on a snowmobile. Real shame
Around my area there’s no public land and it’s all OHV parks except 2 multi use Forest service trails that are also not dedicated for bikes. It’s sad so many places don’t do single track but cater to giant SxS drivers but think dirt bikes cause trail damage lol. Crazy how varied it is in different parts of the country/ world
@@williamcrotts7054 Lol, like exhaust sparks have ever started a forest fire.
@@colbymills4006 usually how it goes. They'll scream from the roof tops that there's plenty of places to ride away from cities/houses then they'll move into said riding places and complain until they're shut down.
@@OtisFlint they probably wont. But can from dry pine needles or leaves. It never happens but no one wants to pay for a forest.
@@liamwilson1948 No, it cannot happen, period. No motorcycle has started a fire from the exhaust exiting from the bike, it's all such bs. People have to go out and purchase a $300 muffler just to satisfy some stupid forest rule.
How about suspension set up. Have you set the sag for the rear? I recently took a suspension set up class and it was life changing. I already knew that sag was normally set between 105-110mm. After asking about set up for hard enduro the instructor suggested 110-115mm because of the tendency to use our feet to paddle through sections. The extra sag allows you to get a flatter footing and have more confidence in those areas. It also helped me immensely with the harder rock sections uphill/downhill. Sitting a smidge lower in the back allowed me, with my style of riding, to float the front so much better over everything in my path and just crawl with little to no slippage in the rear.
Boy your really flowing through the technical spots on those trails your gonna kill it in some hard enduro races next season. You the man .
Quick Tip: The kickstand bolt on the new gen KTM's always back out. I would put some red Loctite on the threads to prevent this as long as you don't plan on changing the kickstand. I lost the bolt on my very first ride.
I just bought a Shinko 216SX as well. Recently switched to 140/80 size tires. Was running a Kenda Gnarly 140/80 and it was very good. About as soft as IRC JX8. The Shinko is a little more gummy versus those according to my tester. Should be good for this fall when leaves are down and everything stays damp.
If you feel like the chassis is too stiff, i’ve seen the KTM factory enduro team remove the upper of the two bolts on the frame to cylinder head mount. Supposed to make it flex a little more.
Have seen lots of guys do it, slightly skeptical to try. Not because it won't work, but my buddy's chassis has flexed so much the old bolts won't even align anymore. Not sure if I want to alter the shape of my frame or not haha
How do I enter????
One thing that’s worked out good for me is safety wiring each pair of spokes together. Saves you from damage if one does break.
I installed a tubeless valve stem in my rim to pop the bead. I ride in a lot of dust and sand so it keeps all of that out of the tire.
Emperor Racing makes a robust aluminum skid plate and pipe guard, if you decide you want more protection. They even make a plastic slider you can install on the bottom to make it slip easier.
Watching these videos makes me so excited to get my 2000 200cc 2 stroke ktm back up and running. That bike is a monster.
I have a 2023 gasgas ec250 that I found the same thing with gearing. I have found the best setup for me is a 12/49. For the flowing trail you can tap a gear high and lug through the tighter corners and if you want to get in the pipe just a slight clutch pop and it screams. Then for the slow techie stuff it lugs amazingly. This setup is what I have found to be my happy medium.
Absolutely love my 24 300xcw, I'm glad you do as well! They're such sick bikes. Maybe someday I'll be able to have a setup like yours
Tip for mousse. If you have an old tube, cut the valve stem out and drill another hole so you can pop your bead with a regular valve and add lube through it without taking the tire on and off.
So how do you spread the lube around then?
You need to go and have the bike re-flashed by the dealer, it should not load up like that. If you're planning on an ERM from TSP then just wait to do that, which would be the smart move.
Molecule skid plates made in Oregon, same materials, fits so much better. Uses oem mounts and the skid plates that use brackets already comes with tape installed
You should reach out to them and try them
The new bike is turning out great. The first trail you rode to the lake is super gnarly. The last trail in this vid is also gnarly. I'm familiar with both. What a difference the gearing made. I'm heading to a race in Wyoming this weekend. Cheers
I installed a JD Jetting tuner on mine to help moderate the low-end richness... works fantastic.
Id suggest drilling the mousse balls vs removing a couple of them to get a softer feel. If you remove them, it causes them to bunch up and create big gaps in the tire. Drilling them makes it softer and no gaps.
12:08 haha
I'm moving to Montana...I am not a hard enduro rider per say but really enjoy the tougher technical stuff here in the SoCal desert. Definitely use Mousse front and rear for traction and flat prevention. Lot's of protection and ergonomics items that we all have to add to our bikes to make them solid. I did recently pull the trigger on the TSP ERM and it makes a huge difference in how the bike (I have a 2024 300 XC-W) performs. Have not yet installed the medium compression head as I wanted to really judge the ERM and must say on record it is way better than the stock map. Anyways my mind wanders...great video very well done.
Sweet set up, gearing makes a big difference, I would suggest starting to play with your clickers on your suspension may even do a revalve
Yo im central Wyoming based. I’m a new rider but would love to hit the trails with more experienced guys. Obviously up here winter is here most places if not on the way! But given the opportunity I’d love to drive couple hours north or meet in the middle and rip around!Igor not be something your into or may be but let me know! Could be a good time exploring and riding some trails!
something i would recommend and we do is enlarge that hole you drilled in your rear big enough to install a cut out tube valve stem. makes it so you can still set the bead but also keeps the dust and water and dirt out and extends the life of your bibs/ mousse balls a lot
It’s great seeing you go through the same progression I did with the new tbi bike. You will hear it a lot I’m sure but your best mod is easily the tsp erm. It will take that bike to some seriously crispy levels plus you get many other features with the erm. Best benefit not talked about as much is the fuel mileage improvements. Both mine and my riding buddy’s bikes were getting 18-20mpg now after the tuner it’s always right at 35mpg which is a huge help with the new gas tank design. Looking forward to seeing more videos. Hopefully we may see you on the trails up here in kalispell some day soon!
There's no way your MPG nearly doubled. Others have tested this and said 0 difference in MPG. You're riding different terrain or riding in a different way to see that difference. 35 MPG from a 2 stroke is only going to happen if you're cruising down fire roads.
@@OtisFlint Ehh, my old TPI could go 60 miles on a 2.2 gallon tank. This TBI bike goes about 40 miles.
I ran the 406xc series as well and those were the numbers I got. Riding buddy has same bike and no tune till second to last race and he was always stopping for fuel. Still a small sample size but it has worked amazing for us. The main benefit is cleaning up the richness and not having to clean the bike out like in kincades video but the erm has many other neat benefits and features.
I love my 24 300xcw, 120 hours. Been on 12/48 gearing for most of those hours, been riding the east us hard-enduro series an the bike is awesome. Ive had suspension valvled an k-tech bladder on rear, this helped in the faster technical hill climbs. Bikes are a lil fat on bottom but not a huge issue, jus keep it clean or send your ecu to TSP. Fuel mileage increases considerably after they re-flash the ecu, runs lil cleaner, an runs better overall with even more bottom
@@tylerhall3854 good insight, thanks. So you just had them reflash it without getting a head or anything? Have had a lot of comments recommending the ERM and head, but it’s cheaper just to sent it out and have them flash it yeah?
@@KincadePavich depends on if ur the guy that wants tinker with engine or set it an forget it. I did the ERM and medium head. Rode the bike with jus the tune an no head for awhile, its considerably better. Ive never used the ERM to change running characteristics which is what youd get from a reflash, their tune is pretty well spot on. The medium comp head is noticeable but not like the tune. After further research i later ordered a high comp insert. Forget what u know about old school 2-t and heads, the high comp on this bike actually makes the engine more linear with a decent chunk of bottom. If u like the extra tuning an diagnostic capabilities go for the ERM if not jus have it flashed an see what u think. Last time i looked there was no savings to buying the complete kit with the head or splitting it up an buying head later outside of shipping. If u do get a head dont piss about with medium get the high comp its awesome for hard-enduro, super smooth an keeps pulling when it shouldn't its like cheating. Im not a pro or A rider, I ride B I've finishing in top 25% of my class
@@tylerhall3854 What kind of fuel are you running with the high comp head? And what elevation?
@@x_apollyon2822 ethanol free 93 with vp maddative, haven't tried it without the vp maddative. 1k-2k above. Gonna try straight 93 w/o the additive this weekend, 🤞 for no ping lol
You should try TSP's oversized power valve cover if you're gonna get the ERM. It's a cheap part but does add some nice bottom end for hand enduro.
I know ppl who had changed the stock gearing and then have actually gone back a tooth or 2 after installing both the ERM and the power valve cover.
Glad Kinkade liked the 216SX, literally just got one last week to try on my '24 TE300. I also got the 216MX front fatty
For anyone with one of these, you can change the oil without removing the skid plate by sliding a slightly creased piece of cardboard under the oil drain and using it as a spillway into your used oil pan. This is how i change mine on my '23 250 xc-w and it works great and saves the time that would be spent removing the skid plate every time.
its really nice to see your trail etiquette!! idk if how you ride is common elsewhere but around where I'm from the dirt bikers could learn a thing or two from ya
Personally for me I think it’s your tyre choice, any bike without Michelin medium tyre’s + mousse combo on just doesn’t seem to perform as well. You get a well bedded in mousse and that tyre is like a trials tyre on rocks and steep stuff but is also fantastic everywhere else too and also last ages! The more savage looking your tread pattern is or how tall the tread is doesn’t always mean the best. Hence why the top extreme/hard enduro riders in the world all use Michelin tyre’s
Post number 22!!!! Trying to convince Kincade to do a subscriber rebuild!!!! 03 ktm 125sx!!!! Dude that 300 is sick!
How often should you change the oil? Does it depend on how hard you ride and what you do?
Are you still happy with the 12 48 sprocket set up? I am stock gearing right now but have been looking to adjust as i blow through 1st, but then often am too fast for 2nd or too slow to be in 3rd.
What a great and fun looking trail. Very similar to alot of the riding we have here in Utah
😮 Your riding zone looks like some sort of paradise! I would consider getting a pipe guard if I were you..😔
When you had to clear it out...I think the stock map is the "rich" map. If you get the switch, I think you can switch to the leaner map and avoid that... maybe? I dont know. I notice my 24 spooges a lot more than id expect it to
get the tsp kit on the bike, you won't have to clear it out then plus it will have even more grunt.
Only recently started watching you and I’ve found your content good and interesting, good job!
I have a 24 TE 300. And have thought a ton about a gearing change. Glad you’re helping me make a decision. 😂
hello kincade i love the vids i just wanted to say it would be a cool vid of you working on a honda xr 100 i have one but love the videos
One more upgrade that is almost a must I would highly recommend you get a rekluse auto clutch for your bike they don’t rob any power but come in handy when in really rough conditions and eliminate almost all tire slip because you don’t have to clutch it all the time
I’m not a fan of Rekluses at all, much prefer a manual clutch. They also generate much more heat and don’t have benefits for hard enduro
Such amazing bikes! If you want the power to hit abit better switch over to a gold chain, I put one on my 23 xcw and that .5-3/4hp gain shows
i was thinking of rebuilding a 250 dirt bike any advice for a first timer in this field
I've been thinking about getting the EE Stop/Start buttons. I noticed for the install you had the start on the left but in the video you moved it to the throttle side. Any reason for this? For the dead start races I figured having the start on the left would be better. Just curious
Check out the tsp ecu. Those bikes are lean from the factory. TSP is the way to go!!
Dude I do the same with blowing air in to set the bead! That’s a much better set up, so much more grip
Gotta get the TSP head and ERM module. What a difference! Love it on my ‘24 300XC-W. It’ll fix that rich condition and runs cleaner for sure.
Gotta love how a $12k bike sucks from the factory and you have to spend another $1K+ plus to get it to run right.
@@bryson_stafford I don’t disagree, but in reality that bike has to run in every elevation, on every continent with almost all types of “regular” gas with almost any rider on it. Although it’s not great to spend $1000 on a tsp head and tuner, it’s not unlike having to jet a carb depending on your situation. I spent way more on plastics, levers, chain, sprockets, buttons and gizmos than I needed to anyway when that bike is way better than anything I need anyway.
@@JOettel325 auto manufacturers can do it. They should at least make it so you can tune it then, if they can't tune it right. Carburetors don't compensate by design, so that's to be expected, but I expect my fuel injected by to work right from the factory. Also bikes with carbs come with additional jets and good dealers will set it up for your area. Train your dealers to set it up for the country of origin then if you can't do it right.
Awesome video. I just discovered your channel and I subbed.
Correct bike setup is confidence inspiring which puts you in a good frame of mind 🤘
Highly recommend a tsp erm
Hey Kincade, loving the video series on the 300! Quick question, You're not afraid to break the brake/clutch master cylinder perch with the SXS hand guard mount? I'm still debating whether to go full wrap HCM Mount handguards or open ended that attached to the brake/clutch. Thanks!
@@x_apollyon2822 hey man, what’s the concern of the clutch and brake perches with the SXS mounts? These do not mount to the brake and clutch perches. They’re their own mounts to the bars. That said I have also ran EE guards in the past that did utilize the brake/clutch perches with no issues. Biggest appeal to full wraps IMO are saving levers, with downsides of more width and no give if you hit something.
@@KincadePavich aah thanks for the prompt reply! I thought the sxs’s mounted to the perches. I just started enduro riding not long ago (noobie) and I’m debating whether getting sxs or cycra pro bend ultras on a HCM mount. I’m running the stock ktm hand guards and have smashed my pinkies a few times now, especially when I drop the bike with my hands still on the grips. Just wanted some input from someone with more experience, I’m not racing, just enduro riding for fun. Thanks 🙏
@@x_apollyon2822 I ran full wraps for a long time, and also ran them on my silver kings bike because I knew the bike would hit the ground. The faster you get, the less I’d recommend full wraps. Sounds like where you’re at right now you’d appreciate them. If you go full wraps I’d recommend ones that mount to the bars rather than replace the bar mounts. I had a set of those and whenever they hit something it can also tweak the bars which was annoying. Saves space on the bars though. Pros and cons.
@@KincadePavich Thank you for taking the time to respond! I appreciate the input. Much love man, take care.
Drill your second lock hole opposite the factory lock hole. You can also use a strap to cinch the first lock away from the rim so the bead can pull into the center for the final section at the second lock.
@@zacharysmith7872 the 2nd rim lock is opposite the other
@@KincadePavich ah. Looked a little offset and you mentioned you needed to drill another hole for air because you used the valve stem hole for the lock. How do you like the balls compared to Michelin mousse?
For sure can be a ballache with a new tire. Especially solo.
@@zacharysmith7872 ah I mean yes you are correct it’s not perfectly 180° but it’s like 170° and didn’t warrant another hole IMO haha. I screwed up the air hole by not doing it perfectly center so I don’t want to make it any bigger, silly mistake on my end. Mousse balls are awesome! Similar result to normal mousse with more ability to customize
Is it common to use a brake snake in enduro riding? And why or why not?
you should look into TM designs chain guide
What kind of filter oil do you use?
id recommend to put vaseline under the airfilter. basically it seals that thing better and water not gonna go trough that easily
Living in 3024 with that tip at 13:50 about the air hole for setting the bead
😅 I totally get it... Both times that I've gone to the Rubicon the bike gets home and stays dirty in the garage... It looks better 😄
i would add a seperate pipe guard to protect the pipe aswell
With the 12/48 gearing, could you continue to use the stock chain size?
Yes no problem at all, just needed to adjust the chain adjusters a bit. There's plenty of adjustment left
@@KincadePavich Good to know. I went to a 48 tooth rear, and feel like I can go lower. Ill try the 12 tooth front. Which front sprocket did you purchase?
@@mskahn2002 DirtTricks 12 tooth!
Buy your buddies go pros to wear on your rides. Would love to see more angles!
He does that occasionally already
🎉 Great riding and inspiring footage 💪
Isn’t the traction issue part of the PDS?
Have the same bike (24)
The only thing you should do it buy the map switch and the ERM module from Two Stroke Performance.
You will thank me later ✌🏼
Do you have to bend the skid plate? When I look on the website it’s flat but idk
@@IowaBoysRSG no you do not have to bend the skid plate, they come ready to go!
@@KincadePavich ok, thanks
Can you talk more about what's happening when you had to "Clean it out" referring to the 2-stroke?
Well, two strokes are much different than a 4 -strokes. Let me explain it to you from Top Dead Center (Highest point that a piston can reach in cylinder). So as we begin from this point, exhaust valve is closed, inlet valve is closed, only intake valve, so the mixture of air and fuel gets UNDER the piston, then it gets compressed by inlet valve being closed, as piston travels down it has "pre-compressed" the mixture, when piston reaches bottom dead center it spins crank. So the pre-compressed mixture gets into combustion chamber, cylinder , so still in bottom dead center; intake valve is closed, inlet and exhaust is open. (As you know 2 strokes require a mixture of fuel and Oil, oil doesnt gets burnt fully) So you flush the oil out with compressed and burnt fumes. I hope you understand everything pretty well (im a bad explainer).
How’s the fuel consumption? Wonder if they’ve changed anything to the 24
Terrible. Not impressed on that aspect. Will cover all of this as I gather my thoughts for a full review
@@KincadePavich yeah that kinda sucks about them new bikes, I’m sure tacomoto were coming out with a fix, good luck & can’t wait for the next vid!
The main thing non dirt bikers hate is the noise...electric bikes could save trail access but people won't buy them until it's too late. Just like you said in the video, when more hikers/non motorized users are on the trail, we get kicked off.
Are you running premix or using the oil tank system the bike came with?
Currently oil injected, debating deleting it in the future
Ill never understand black rims on Enduro bikes, especially oem with their glossy coating. They look pike crap after 1-2 rides. Those urmosi wheels look cool, so hopefully they hold up to wear a little better than oem
great vids kincade
It's a 2% overall change in gearing (-8% in front, +6% in back), I'm gonna call mostly placebo effect on this one :p Sick upgrades, that wheel set sounds sick.
how? stock is 13/45 .. he went to 12/48...
No sir, smaller front sprocket is lower gearing and bigger rear sprocket is lower gearing. They’re inverse of each other. I’m not gonna do the math, but it’s a hugely significant change. Down one tooth in the front is similar to up 3 or 4 in the rear. So this would be like going from 13/45 to 13/52 if you want to look at it that way.
@@KincadePavich Right sorry my bad, that's huge! The math would be about 14% shorter total I think... but I've lost all credibility now 😆 1st must be insanely short, but I bet 3rd is a dream!
@@HuntersHouse-ge2xz I'm a dumbass
How is it possible to bead the tyre with mousse balls? I'm a noob with todays tech. I always use a UHD tube :D
13:45
@@KincadePavich Haha gotcha :D Watched that part after my comment. How does it stay beaded though, with the rimlocks?
Super pozdrav iz Srbije
He said fuck that engine break in period lol😂
Love your content keep up the good work man
Now you're starting to understand the 300 XC-W engine and why it is so loved.
That is a habit you will get into with two strokes, just revving it whenever you get a chance to pull the clutch in to clear it out.
Do you only run mousse balls in the rear and still run air in the front?
@@matthewgibson6 mousse balls in the front too
I’m looking for my first bike I have ridden before but it’s been a hot min any suggestions I don’t have a lot of money so it’s hard to find something for me
I do some trail riding with my friends bike but I feel bad using his
quick tip from a south african that rides alot in the dust!!! We instead of replacing the filter we just clean it in diezel and petrol or with filter cleaner and reoil it with filter oil after each ride... Your bike will never give you issues with not breathing well after that!!! just something we do here
He's switching to No Toil oil. It cannot be mixed with petroleum products, so need to start with a fresh new filter. He will clean and re-oil from here.
10:57 why don't you get medium compound tires? They'll last you longer
But they'll never match the grip especially on slick surfaces for hard Enduro. Always a trade off.
@devvoid1312 I don't know what kind of tred you're running but I'm yet to have grip problems with the ones I'm running.
@@kingslymopeli1991 either way, you're still going to get better grip out of the sticky tires. There's always a trade off with any tire, that's why they make so many different compounds and threads 🤷♂️
@@kingslymopeli1991 You say yet to have grip problems but are you riding terrain like this? Remember that GoPro makes everything look more mellow than it is. Traction is essential through this stuff. A harder compound would spin.
You should go for erzberg
I’d just do the yz250x and call it done. Jk nice bike and good mods. Keep up the great content 😊
The IRC JX8 is the tire for hard enduro.
Nice bike!
Hello from Greece 🇬🇷 brother ❤
9 hours break in oil is crazy haha I changed my oil and filter after every ride for the first 15 hours on my crf450. Oil changes are cheap compared to engine rebuilds, which is my train of thought. But for the price of a ktm I'd imagine they're built pretty well and would be reliable enough to handle longer intervals between oil changes.
Bike is looking so good! 🔥🤩
Get a pipe guard!!
What's the issue at 19:00? Too much oil on the exhaust?
That' was strange. I have the same bike but a 24 and have never had that issue. Seems like KTM mapped these again and now they might chop up (aka rich mapping) when going up gnarl for a while. Time for Two Stroke Performance ERM.
Put a pipe guard on it
Love it man 🎉
You’re still gonna get a gritty throttle even with those bar ends. Switch to the ktm cycra CRM guards and you never have to worry about it
I run the same guards as he showed and have never had an issue. Wrap arounds are like having training wheels, at some point you need to take the off.
@@onthethrottle7104 oh please. Show me the “terrain” you’re riding.
I clean my throttle frequently. Bar ends are to protect the throttle from damage. Do not prefer full wrap guards. Extra width is a disadvantage and they move the bars when hitting obstacles rather than flexing.
@@davidbeauvais1364 Do you see any of the pro's using wrap arounds? Never.
So? What do I got to do to get one?
Go to Redline Sports and buy one!
Where can we buy the Mouse Balls?
Links to parts used is in the descriptions of videos! Here it is: kincadepavich.com/recent/2025-ktm-300-xc-w-parts-list/
greetings from Belgium/netherlands
Check out slavens racing bike build 2024 300 he recaps the ecm to improve fuel mileage and help keep the bike from loading up awesome video can't wate to win the 200 and riding with you western guys!
Remaps the fuel tuning
You should try the Shinko 505 hybrid cheater, the best ones ive tried so far, they do the job and last longer than the 525. I pair that with a Bridgestone M59 in the front... you cant go wrong with this combo!!
This is what I’m looking at for mine. Wonder why he went with the 525? Is there a big difference?
Gnarly trails!
Brilliant as always 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇬🇧
I want a bike like that!!
Why does it seem like the 350’s still have more torc than the 300’s?
@@StandlyRichards25 because they do I think. This bike is all lug. My 350 was definitely more torquey at higher RPMs than this bike. This bike has great low end torque at slow speeds.
Torque is one thing, usable toque is another. 300 two stroke enduro bikes have the most usable torque for hard enduro by far...
Most of the time i’m here for the bike builds but please make more riding content i think alot of us enjoy it alot!
when is the livestream on october 1? i hope its not while im working...
Likely 6pm MST will announce soon
@@KincadePavich awesome, cant wait!