I've been doing this and it works great...sometimes. Often I get hit with horribly strong moire as this technique can play havoc with digital sensors. Moving the camera away from the art is the only reliable way I've found so far to help when it happens.
Is it possible to combine the effects of cross polarization and diffusion of light (e.g. in a lightbox) to completely cut down reflection in high reflective objects such as jewelery?
Not quite correct but close. The circular polarizer has a linear polarizing layer. Beneath the linear layer is a layer that basically depolarizes the light. This second layer is only needed to prevent a blackout affect that results from cross polarizing a partially silvered mirror (also know as a beam splitter) typically found in newer SLRs and DSLRs that have TTL metering. It is not beneficial to use circular polarization on the lights. If placed on the lights backwards they desired affect would be eliminated or greatly reduced. But if correctly oriented the circular polarizer would work the same as a linear polarizer.
You only need the circular pol filter on the camera lens if you're using linear polarizers on the light source. If you're already using circular polarisers on the light source the reflections should be taken care of by that and you should be able to shoot directly without an additional Circular Polarizer on your lens. (Maybe I'm wrong but I think that's how it works).
Not quite correct but close. The circular polarizer has a linear polarizing layer. Beneath the linear layer is a layer that basically depolarizes the light. This second layer is only needed to prevent a blackout affect that results from cross polarizing a partially silvered mirror (also know as a beam splitter) typically found in newer SLRs and DSLRs that have TTL metering. It is not beneficial to use circular polarization on the lights. If placed on the lights backwards they desired affect would be eliminated or greatly reduced.
I've been doing this and it works great...sometimes. Often I get hit with horribly strong moire as this technique can play havoc with digital sensors. Moving the camera away from the art is the only reliable way I've found so far to help when it happens.
Excellent Graham, never thought of doing it that way 👍☕️
Glad you enjoyed it. I'm now going to scale it up using LED floodlights to get more light for bigger sets.
Is it possible to combine the effects of cross polarization and diffusion of light (e.g. in a lightbox) to completely cut down reflection in high reflective objects such as jewelery?
It is possible but your film has to be outside of the soft box. And large enough to fit over the whole box,
You look like a young David Attenborough.
I wish! thanks for the comment though.
The light filters must be linear polarisers .... otherwise turning them would not change the degree of specular extinction.
Not quite correct but close. The circular polarizer has a linear polarizing layer. Beneath the linear layer is a layer that basically depolarizes the light. This second layer is only needed to prevent a blackout affect that results from cross polarizing a partially silvered mirror (also know as a beam splitter) typically found in newer SLRs and DSLRs that have TTL metering. It is not beneficial to use circular polarization on the lights. If placed on the lights backwards they desired affect would be eliminated or greatly reduced. But if correctly oriented the circular polarizer would work the same as a linear polarizer.
Indeed, I concur.@@MarkLaPlante-v9p
You only need the circular pol filter on the camera lens if you're using linear polarizers on the light source. If you're already using circular polarisers on the light source the reflections should be taken care of by that and you should be able to shoot directly without an additional Circular Polarizer on your lens. (Maybe I'm wrong but I think that's how it works).
Not quite correct but close. The circular polarizer has a linear polarizing layer. Beneath the linear layer is a layer that basically depolarizes the light. This second layer is only needed to prevent a blackout affect that results from cross polarizing a partially silvered mirror (also know as a beam splitter) typically found in newer SLRs and DSLRs that have TTL metering. It is not beneficial to use circular polarization on the lights. If placed on the lights backwards they desired affect would be eliminated or greatly reduced.
Very interesting.
Glad you think so! thank for the comment!