Just curious, in the second subject you did the preliminary work in PS but then went to LR for final adjustments. Why not just stay in PS? Is there a creative reason to make that move? Thanks!
Thanks for your question my friend. The reason why I switched to Lightroom ones the image were blended together is that Lightroom compared to Photoshop offers nondestructive workflow, which means that any settings or effect can be modified later, without affecting the original image, and without getting a huge file size. Thanks for your comment and I hope this answer is helpful!🤘😉
@@DanielAucoinFineArt Thanks, I only thought PS was destructive if 'Adjustments' was selected from the Menu bar. Have you done a Stacking video using a strobe? I might have missed it. Thanks!
Excellent content Daniel, I appreciate your video and advise. I've been using flash diffusers with some good results.. but I think your approach is better and creates much more depth within the photo.. thanks..
This is EXACTLY what I'm looking for to improve my slose-up photograpy. I'm currently not happy with the results using my flash. Now, your video shows me the difference results using flash & continuous light. It also demonstrates how to use multiple lights to create beautiful macro photos. Now I have to practice what I've learnt. Thank Daniel.
wow, great video and stunning photos. I want to start with (real) macro and while searching for ideas, I came to your video. Perfect explanation, it gave me some new ideas. Thank you!
I use natural light, sometimes static lights but mostly with a very well diffused flash and stack either by hand or in-camera on a tripod. My favourite is well diffused flash then control the background light with exposure time.
The way i look on macro photography is changed 180 because of you. Thank you brother. Flash really kill my perspective to take photo, just 1 shot and done.
Nice video. Really turned out well. I really have been trying to move in to the flash space and stacking, but my R5 will not shoot flash with focus stacking. I have been using my olympus. I have the Godox MF12, 3 of them in total. What I like is they work with focus stacking on Olympus. Also with 3 flashes you can do what you are doing but you can easily gel the flashes with different colors so you can get different light combinations. I do think continuous light like you are using are easier because what you see is what you get, but multiple flashes give you more power/options
What you just said is totally true. More power equal the possibility of freezing your subject and I get that for a lot of people that’s important because they love to shoot bugs and small living things. Thanks for taking the time to give your feedback. ✌️😉🫶
Hi Daniel, I have one question please. At 2 minutes 8 seconds into your video, what is the brand name & model of the BENDABLE rod that you use to attach your LED cube on. Thanks.
Thank you for your tips! Really made me think about lighting with when shooting macro! I'm curious about the articulating arms you used on the Lumecubes, as they look very handy!
Your macro photography is very inspiring and I really like the way you use continuous light to get the "perfect" shot. One question. In the video you said you needed to calculate the number of shots required based on your current depth of field. How did you calculate that? Thx in advance and keep up the good work. And the last picture without flash is the nicest imo. Greetings from Norway.
Thanks for your thoughtful message, my friend. In regard to your question about focus stacking… The way I go about it is try with 15 to 20 images first and then adjust if needed. I don’t use any scientific calculation. I just wanna make sure that the front part of the subject isn’t focus and also the part further away. If you find mathematical formula, please let me know 😉✌️🙏
Hello, I really admire your macro photography works and I am also learning from you. Could you tell me the brand and model of the lamp you use? Thank you!
hello excellent video but at what time of day do you take your photos because the ambient light should not be intense, thank you for your answer bonjour excellente video mais a quelle heure de la journée faites vous vos photos car la lumiere ambiante ne doit pas etre intense, merci pour votre reponse
It is better to go out on cloudy days, or when the sun is lower on the horizon, and when it’s easy to find shades. I never shoot in sunlight because the sun has too much impact on the image. Thanks for your question 😉✌️
hi daniel. may i ask a question? when we do macro photography why we need so many focus stack, lets say more than 15 focus stacks in f11. is it not enough if we just take like 5 images for focus stack in f11 maybe. thank u daniel
Focus stacking allows you to use a larger aperture like f/4 to create a softer background. When shooting at a wider aperture, such as f/4, you may need to capture more images to ensure that the entire scene is in focus. Conversely, shooting at a smaller aperture like f/11 may require fewer images for focus stacking and still achieve a sharp overall image.
@@DanielAucoinFineArt many thanks, it's exactly what I've been looking for to be able to shot astro in portrait mode. You should do more long content, your videos are very well made and rewarding to watch.
Loving your content. Its inspirational. Going to get myself a tripod... Thinking 3 legged things punks variety.... You worked with that brand or have recommendation for macro? Anything with reversable centre column I take is good, but would you rather the carbon fibre style light travel tripods or you think the cheaper but heavier versions are actually better for stability that is required in macro?
Really it depends on your budget, but I find that the carbon fiber tripod is really sturdy especially when working upside down when the point of gravity is closer to the ground. Have fun, my friend.✌️😉
Controversial "click bait" title, Daniel -- uncharacteristically "violent" for Canadian😀, but sure to get lots of comments. Great practical tips and instructive techniques on building up a composition. Would never think to stick the flexible arm in the ground. Learned lighting principles from studio shots in general can also be applied to macro. Vid overlooks (somewhat unfairly, IMO) flash modifiers that have their function in macro -- particularly built-in modeling lights, diffusers, gels, snoots, zooms, slave flash units, etc. A mention would have been warranted, although I take it you wanted to address beginners. Yes, we have to "chimp" flash shots in trial and error method, but that doesn't take much effort or time. I'm firmly in the tripod camp, but some folks get amazing macro results using diffused camera-mounted flash bursts while hand-holding their rigs and slightly moving to and from subject (including flying insects). Re focus stacking: what's your opinion of using focusing rails, where camera and lens move in relation to fixed subject? Some manual focus macro lenses require moving camera or subject to attain focus. Compare with minor focus adjustments on the macro lens focus ring. Ever use in-camera focus bracketing? BTW, the "final shot" comparison was an unfair "set-up" if there ever was one -- nice😂. Cheers!
Paul, I truly appreciate your insightful feedback as always. You make some valid points. I understand that many talented photographers achieve remarkable results using flash techniques, but my focus in this video was on continuous lighting which I am currently passionate about. I wanted to share my experiences with that specific approach at this stage of my career. Yes, I already did use the in-camera focus bracketing, and I actually did it for the three images in the video. I know that the final shot was unfair to compare, but I felt like I needed to put a photo made with a flash in order to justify this crazy video title, lol. Your insights are always valuable, and I appreciate your continued support. Thank you for engaging with the content and sharing your thoughts!
First time I come across your channel. You just got a new sub. Not to mention that I love the fact that you hired George St-Pierre as voice actor for your narration!
Great photo at the end, albeit you seem to have used a bare flash (likely on camera flash) without trying to mimic your light arrangement of the LED lights. That seems a bit unfair and biased to me. You can get the same final shot using flash if you apply the same steps and editing, only downside would be triggering the flash units (slave mode makes it simple) and the lack of lighting preview. It seem like a very intentional bad representation of the other method and its viability. Criticism aside, I liked your workflow and your approach when setting up the scene and the lights. I will try my hands at using continuous lights next time I go out for a macro walk.
Indeed, you are correct that I used a flash rather than trying mimicking the light arrangement of the LED lights. I must agree with you that it may have seemed biased but that wasn’t my intention. There were a few reasons why I chose to use LED lights over flashes. Firstly, the size and placement of the flashes would have made replicating the setup with them quite challenging. Secondly, achieving the same aperture with flashes could have been problematic due to their potential strength even at the lowest setting, considering the distance at which I placed the LED lights. I appreciate your feedback and the time you took to point out these considerations. Your comments are valuable in helping me understand different perspectives. It's great to hear you enjoyed my workflow and approach. Good luck trying out continuous lights on your next macro photography adventure! Thank you once again for sharing your thoughts.😉✌️
I think the intention though is the way in which using continuous lighting is a good way to learn and get used to how lighting works. I don't think a flash or even having lights setup to flash let you see what the photo would look like live prior to taking the shot though? And if so, by that time, you may as well be using tiny LED lights. It's not the same as setting up a photo studio right? You are out walking for hours at times in nature, so you need to pack light too.
I watched a video of a macro photography teacher and learned that flashing lights can interfere with learning macro photography. Through the video, I would like to learn techniques to reduce the depth of field and do my best to express the delicate texture of flower petals and the fine fur of insects The light has already been purchased.
Thank you very much for your comment. Find a subject, make a composition by putting your camera on the tripod. Under exposed slightly your image. Play with light to see in real time the effect it has on the subject and learn lighting.✌️😉
@@DanielAucoinFineArt thanks 🙏! I found your shorts a while back. I just did a few shots like yours with this technique in my vlog I’m releasing next week of some mushrooms with a fog machine. I struggled getting the lights in a good spot then I saw your long form video. Thanks again. Your videos rock. Keep grinding and having fun bro.
Do you find a difference personally between M43 macro photogoraphy and like using your Canon R5? Like, if you had to use OM-1 for now, would like like it, or hate.. for something (like image quality)?
When it comes to the comparison between M43 macro photography and using my Canon R5, there are certainly differences in the equipment and the overall shooting experience. While I haven't used an OM-1 for macro photography, from what I've seen, modern cameras are capable of delivering high image quality when paired with good lighting and proper technique. In my opinion, investing time in understanding light and composition is essential before focusing solely on upgrading to expensive camera gear, as light plays a crucial role in photography regardless of the camera used.😉
@@DanielAucoinFineArt I agree completely with you. I do actually use A7-IV, but you as a macro photographer there, could see the IQ difference between those 20 mpx M43 sensors, and yours 45 mpx. Cropping abillity for example could be a factor, maybe some sharpness, maybe depth of field factor. It's like with those 20 mpx, you need to be almost perfect with everything including sensor capabilites (dynamic range). Don't get me wrong, I just wanted to ask about your opinion about differences, that could keep you away from this or that. I think about switching to OM-1 for some reasons, but also considering Z8 and A7-R5. Why? Just because of that, as you said, searching for style and needs.
Here’s the name of the flexible LED lights I currently use. bit.ly/4cz7i6j You can also go on my channel bio for all other product I’m using. Please let me know if you have other questions 😉✌️
Flashes are just momentary blast of light. If you have enough of them and you know how to use them, they hold tremendous advantages over incidence lighting. Any type of light which illuminates the subject flatly can destroy the depth of what is photographed. Reverse time by 20 years and try accomplish what you are advocating with quartz halogens. LEDs and live view are your crutches.
There is a lot of truth in what you're saying, my friend, and I understand your point of view. It's true that regardless of the type of lighting you're using, if you don't know how to place and use them, your shots are going to be flat and boring. What I meant is that flash photography doesn't allow you to see the effect in real-time of what you're about to capture. So, continuous lighting is my go-to choice to learn how to see the effect of light in real time. You don't even have to look through your viewfinder; you can literally look with your bare eyes to see the effect of lighting on your subject, and unfortunately, flash photography does not allow that. Especially for the style of macro photography that I'm doing, where tiny light movement makes a huge difference in the final shots. I really appreciate your input, and I get what you're saying, but for me, continuous lighting is the best way to learn the effect of light in real time.✌️😉
@@DanielAucoinFineArt Certainly, what you see is what you get....almost. However the lesson of light dissipating to the square of the distance and light being additive plus the prediction of ratios is not learned or predicted in a meaningful way. Available ie ambient light reflected from an object and displayed on a screen is certainly more efficient. To me though it's like not moving your camera out of program mode. Or buying a camera with no depth of field preview button function. I feel there is a limit to the level of progression if the reason or theory behind the success is also learned. I believe the method of using diffusion hoods is over used and does produce an overall flat lighting. It is much like using a fill light only in the studio environment. It is vital that key lights and accent lights be applied at the proper ratios to see the truly the beauty of the object before our lens. Our eyes can only perceive the shape of an object from the light which is reflected from it. Texture in lighting gives us the ability to see forms much better. Shadows are key. We can both agree then it is not flash we abhor it is flat lighting which we see as a major mistake. What is called a radial or radiant hood is far too overused but to a point easier and successful. Several examples of technology had to mature to allow the system which you use to work. My wish would be the ambient light seen was modeling lights and the strobe light would create the actual image. Fiber optics would allow this. Anyway. Great discussion. It has been my pleasure.
Not impressed. The images of the Forget-me-nots look so false - more like they've been taken in a studio than in the wild! I've been photographing wild flowers for over 40 years and I always use balanced flash with daylight to add just a little brightness to the subject while at the same time slightly under-exposing the background but without that false look that you achieve!
Just curious, in the second subject you did the preliminary work in PS but then went to LR for final adjustments. Why not just stay in PS? Is there a creative reason to make that move? Thanks!
Thanks for your question my friend. The reason why I switched to Lightroom ones the image were blended together is that Lightroom compared to Photoshop offers nondestructive workflow, which means that any settings or effect can be modified later, without affecting the original image, and without getting a huge file size. Thanks for your comment and I hope this answer is helpful!🤘😉
@@DanielAucoinFineArt Thanks, I only thought PS was destructive if 'Adjustments' was selected from the Menu bar. Have you done a Stacking video using a strobe? I might have missed it. Thanks!
Excellent content Daniel, I appreciate your video and advise. I've been using flash diffusers with some good results.. but I think your approach is better and creates much more depth within the photo.. thanks..
Glad the video was helpful! 😊✌️
This is EXACTLY what I'm looking for to improve my slose-up photograpy. I'm currently not happy with the results using my flash. Now, your video shows me the difference results using flash & continuous light. It also demonstrates how to use multiple lights to create beautiful macro photos. Now I have to practice what I've learnt. Thank Daniel.
I'm glad you found the video helpful, and hope you get great results practicing! ✌️😉
You might also want to take a look at these tr.ee/KwAo14QU-R
wow, great video and stunning photos. I want to start with (real) macro and while searching for ideas, I came to your video. Perfect explanation, it gave me some new ideas. Thank you!
Thanks for the feedback 🙏🙏🙏😉✌️
I use natural light, sometimes static lights but mostly with a very well diffused flash and stack either by hand or in-camera on a tripod. My favourite is well diffused flash then control the background light with exposure time.
👍👍👍😉✌️
Great information. I really like the details brought out using continuous lighting.
🙏😉✌️
Thanks Daniel, I learned from you using C Light in macro. I will use it!
Thanks for the feedback and good luck with your photography. Have fun.✌️😉
@@DanielAucoinFineArt 🙏🙏
Excellent ! Convaincu! Résultats magnifiques.
😊 🙏 merci
Thanks. I loved both images.
Thanks for the feedback 😉✌️
The way i look on macro photography is changed 180 because of you. Thank you brother.
Flash really kill my perspective to take photo, just 1 shot and done.
I’m happy you got something out of my videos😉✌️
@@DanielAucoinFineArt poorly me can’t buy something from amazon etc cause of rules in my country.
Want to build lighting by myself (maybe)
No contest ......the artificial lighting has more impact & create some etherial feeling. Thank you so much for this tutorial. It is extremely helpful.
Thanks for your feedback, my friend😉🙏💙
Nice video. Really turned out well. I really have been trying to move in to the flash space and stacking, but my R5 will not shoot flash with focus stacking. I have been using my olympus. I have the Godox MF12, 3 of them in total. What I like is they work with focus stacking on Olympus. Also with 3 flashes you can do what you are doing but you can easily gel the flashes with different colors so you can get different light combinations. I do think continuous light like you are using are easier because what you see is what you get, but multiple flashes give you more power/options
What you just said is totally true. More power equal the possibility of freezing your subject and I get that for a lot of people that’s important because they love to shoot bugs and small living things. Thanks for taking the time to give your feedback.
✌️😉🫶
Hi Daniel, I have one question please. At 2 minutes 8 seconds into your video, what is the brand name & model of the BENDABLE rod that you use to attach your LED cube on. Thanks.
There you go, my friend✌️😉
tr.ee/DEFCK3oX1W
Thank you for your tips! Really made me think about lighting with when shooting macro! I'm curious about the articulating arms you used on the Lumecubes, as they look very handy!
tr.ee/DEFCK3oX1W
Another great lesson. Your tips&trics are very helpful. Thank You!
thanks for taking time to give your feedback🙏😉
Great video. I do alot of this type of photography. With flash there are options for defusers and off camera flash that make a better photo.
Thank you very much for sharing your thoughts😉✌️
Hi thank you for the video, I am just getting into macro photography and I was going to purchase a ring flash but not now. Thanks again.
I’m glad you found it useful😉✌️
Would love to know where you get thoose flexarms from, for the Joby cubes. :)
There you go my friend!✌️😉
tr.ee/DEFCK3oX1W
Really useful tips. Thank you.
🙏😉✌️
Your macro photography is very inspiring and I really like the way you use continuous light to get the "perfect" shot. One question. In the video you said you needed to calculate the number of shots required based on your current depth of field. How did you calculate that? Thx in advance and keep up the good work. And the last picture without flash is the nicest imo. Greetings from Norway.
Thanks for your thoughtful message, my friend.
In regard to your question about focus stacking… The way I go about it is try with 15 to 20 images first and then adjust if needed. I don’t use any scientific calculation. I just wanna make sure that the front part of the subject isn’t focus and also the part further away.
If you find mathematical formula, please let me know 😉✌️🙏
Very informative! Thank You 😊
🙏✌️😉
I Love micro photography and thanks for sharing this knowledge
Thanks for watching🙏
Your photos really stand out with this technique, compare to a flash. I love macro and you motivated me to try this!
Great to hear! Go for it!😉
thank you for the information - I like to know why you did not use the soft box or the diffuser - it is not convenient to macrophotographs. thank you
Thanks for sharing your thoughts 😉✌️
Hello, I really admire your macro photography works and I am also learning from you. Could you tell me the brand and model of the lamp you use? Thank you!
fineart.danielaucoin.com/gear
😉✌️
hello excellent video but at what time of day do you take your photos because the ambient light should not be intense, thank you for your answer
bonjour excellente video mais a quelle heure de la journée faites vous vos photos car la lumiere ambiante ne doit pas etre intense, merci pour votre reponse
It is better to go out on cloudy days, or when the sun is lower on the horizon, and when it’s easy to find shades. I never shoot in sunlight because the sun has too much impact on the image.
Thanks for your question 😉✌️
hi daniel. may i ask a question? when we do macro photography why we need so many focus stack, lets say more than 15 focus stacks in f11. is it not enough if we just take like 5 images for focus stack in f11 maybe. thank u daniel
Focus stacking allows you to use a larger aperture like f/4 to create a softer background. When shooting at a wider aperture, such as f/4, you may need to capture more images to ensure that the entire scene is in focus. Conversely, shooting at a smaller aperture like f/11 may require fewer images for focus stacking and still achieve a sharp overall image.
@@DanielAucoinFineArt ah i see i see. thank you so much dan
Merci pour les trucs Daniel. Thanks for sharing
Merci Michel, j'apprécie le temps que tu prends pour écrire ton feedback!✌️
Im glad i stumbled on your youtube channel Daniel! Much appriciated video.
I gotta ask, what brand are you using on your L-bracket?
Thanks, my friend.!😉✌️
Promediagear
@@DanielAucoinFineArt many thanks, it's exactly what I've been looking for to be able to shot astro in portrait mode.
You should do more long content, your videos are very well made and rewarding to watch.
Thanks for your feedback, my friend. 🙏😉✌️
Valuable lessons. Will you please write down names of lights you have been using. Also if possible, from where to get them. Thanks.
Here my friend!😉✌️
tr.ee/PFJMXbI_y0
Loving your content. Its inspirational. Going to get myself a tripod... Thinking 3 legged things punks variety.... You worked with that brand or have recommendation for macro? Anything with reversable centre column I take is good, but would you rather the carbon fibre style light travel tripods or you think the cheaper but heavier versions are actually better for stability that is required in macro?
Really it depends on your budget, but I find that the carbon fiber tripod is really sturdy especially when working upside down when the point of gravity is closer to the ground. Have fun, my friend.✌️😉
Controversial "click bait" title, Daniel -- uncharacteristically "violent" for Canadian😀, but sure to get lots of comments.
Great practical tips and instructive techniques on building up a composition. Would never think to stick the flexible arm in the ground. Learned lighting principles from studio shots in general can also be applied to macro.
Vid overlooks (somewhat unfairly, IMO) flash modifiers that have their function in macro -- particularly built-in modeling lights, diffusers, gels, snoots, zooms, slave flash units, etc. A mention would have been warranted, although I take it you wanted to address beginners.
Yes, we have to "chimp" flash shots in trial and error method, but that doesn't take much effort or time.
I'm firmly in the tripod camp, but some folks get amazing macro results using diffused camera-mounted flash bursts while hand-holding their rigs and slightly moving to and from subject (including flying insects).
Re focus stacking: what's your opinion of using focusing rails, where camera and lens move in relation to fixed subject? Some manual focus macro lenses require moving camera or subject to attain focus. Compare with minor focus adjustments on the macro lens focus ring.
Ever use in-camera focus bracketing?
BTW, the "final shot" comparison was an unfair "set-up" if there ever was one -- nice😂.
Cheers!
Paul, I truly appreciate your insightful feedback as always. You make some valid points. I understand that many talented photographers achieve remarkable results using flash techniques, but my focus in this video was on continuous lighting which I am currently passionate about. I wanted to share my experiences with that specific approach at this stage of my career. Yes, I already did use the in-camera focus bracketing, and I actually did it for the three images in the video. I know that the final shot was unfair to compare, but I felt like I needed to put a photo made with a flash in order to justify this crazy video title, lol. Your insights are always valuable, and I appreciate your continued support. Thank you for engaging with the content and sharing your thoughts!
First time I come across your channel. You just got a new sub. Not to mention that I love the fact that you hired George St-Pierre as voice actor for your narration!
Haha😅
Thanks man! Really appreciate the comment!🤘
That's great, and I commend you for your enthusiasm.
Yes!😉✌️
Appreciated
This is called dedication.
✌️😉🙏
Great photo at the end, albeit you seem to have used a bare flash (likely on camera flash) without trying to mimic your light arrangement of the LED lights. That seems a bit unfair and biased to me. You can get the same final shot using flash if you apply the same steps and editing, only downside would be triggering the flash units (slave mode makes it simple) and the lack of lighting preview. It seem like a very intentional bad representation of the other method and its viability.
Criticism aside, I liked your workflow and your approach when setting up the scene and the lights.
I will try my hands at using continuous lights next time I go out for a macro walk.
Indeed, you are correct that I used a flash rather than trying mimicking the light arrangement of the LED lights. I must agree with you that it may have seemed biased but that wasn’t my intention.
There were a few reasons why I chose to use LED lights over flashes. Firstly, the size and placement of the flashes would have made replicating the setup with them quite challenging. Secondly, achieving the same aperture with flashes could have been problematic due to their potential strength even at the lowest setting, considering the distance at which I placed the LED lights.
I appreciate your feedback and the time you took to point out these considerations. Your comments are valuable in helping me understand different perspectives. It's great to hear you enjoyed my workflow and approach. Good luck trying out continuous lights on your next macro photography adventure!
Thank you once again for sharing your thoughts.😉✌️
I think the intention though is the way in which using continuous lighting is a good way to learn and get used to how lighting works.
I don't think a flash or even having lights setup to flash let you see what the photo would look like live prior to taking the shot though? And if so, by that time, you may as well be using tiny LED lights.
It's not the same as setting up a photo studio right? You are out walking for hours at times in nature, so you need to pack light too.
It was nice 😊.Which tripod and lens you are using .
😉✌️
tr.ee/hZnzeBUpxe
You can recommend types of lamps for macro photography in your next video?
Yes, that’s a great idea. Thanks for your comment.😉✌️
Where did you buy your macro flash? thank you
linktr.ee/aucoindaniel?fbclid=PAZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAaaAH-VK4bJuAEDoeWlWEtVRkUWWG8yNb9MlJt6ciiIY0-dtIzhjSMSqb1s_aem_pBd4tv9dhwZfU-XFK4quFA
Привет из Москвы ! Подскажите пожалуйста, как называется фонарь куб ?
Please use the link in my channel, bio my friend🙏✌️😉
tr.ee/NPpdvA4Hfo
Code: DANIEL15 for 15% off
Thanks 🙏
Great images and tips 🙂👍
🙏thanks
What color balance do you use?
Please let me know for which image…
Great info, thank you.
🙏😉thanks for the feedback
@@DanielAucoinFineArt I understand, I have a tiny macro channel.
Evriting good job, you friend photographs amazing. 😮
🙏😉
I wonder does this tips can be used in jewerly, i am a photographer in jewerly and really stuck at lightning.
Of course it can be apply my friend and maybe I’ll make a couple of videos about it soon😉🙏💙
@@DanielAucoinFineArt thanks bro i can't wait to see your video
thanks! this was really cool and informative God bless you :)
Thanks for watching. 🙏
Thank for the tips my friend❤🙏😇
Pleasure ✌️😉
love ur content. Does the mobile phone can be like you?
Good question! I might do a video that shows what can be achieved with a cellphone ✌️😉
@@DanielAucoinFineArt thanks for that. Can't wait to see 😍
Beautiful pics, ty
Thanks 😉✌️
I watched a video of a macro photography teacher and learned that flashing lights can interfere with learning macro photography. Through the video, I would like to learn techniques to reduce the depth of field and do my best to express the delicate texture of flower petals and the fine fur of insects The light has already been purchased.
Thank you very much for your comment. Find a subject, make a composition by putting your camera on the tripod. Under exposed slightly your image. Play with light to see in real time the effect it has on the subject and learn lighting.✌️😉
What’s the name of that stick attached to your mini light? I like that it’s not a full mini tripod.
There you go, my friend.✌️😉
tr.ee/DEFCK3oX1W
@@DanielAucoinFineArt thanks 🙏! I found your shorts a while back. I just did a few shots like yours with this technique in my vlog I’m releasing next week of some mushrooms with a fog machine. I struggled getting the lights in a good spot then I saw your long form video. Thanks again. Your videos rock. Keep grinding and having fun bro.
What articulated arm you are using ?
✌️😉
tr.ee/DEFCK3oX1W
@@DanielAucoinFineArt Thank you Daniel
Love this ❤❤❤😮❤❤❤
😉✌️❤️
The Photo with continuous light is the best - no doubt.
😉✌️
Do you find a difference personally between M43 macro photogoraphy and like using your Canon R5?
Like, if you had to use OM-1 for now, would like like it, or hate.. for something (like image quality)?
When it comes to the comparison between M43 macro photography and using my Canon R5, there are certainly differences in the equipment and the overall shooting experience. While I haven't used an OM-1 for macro photography, from what I've seen, modern cameras are capable of delivering high image quality when paired with good lighting and proper technique. In my opinion, investing time in understanding light and composition is essential before focusing solely on upgrading to expensive camera gear, as light plays a crucial role in photography regardless of the camera used.😉
@@DanielAucoinFineArt I agree completely with you. I do actually use A7-IV, but you as a macro photographer there, could see the IQ difference between those 20 mpx M43 sensors, and yours 45 mpx. Cropping abillity for example could be a factor, maybe some sharpness, maybe depth of field factor. It's like with those 20 mpx, you need to be almost perfect with everything including sensor capabilites (dynamic range). Don't get me wrong, I just wanted to ask about your opinion about differences, that could keep you away from this or that. I think about switching to OM-1 for some reasons, but also considering Z8 and A7-R5. Why? Just because of that, as you said, searching for style and needs.
That's good if your subjects are sitting still.
I'm photographing bees handheld. so I need a flash to freeze the motion.
That’s totally true my friend!😉
Thanks for the feedback ✌️
Привет из России!!! вы делаете нереальную красоту, уважаю👍
Thanks you so much 🙏😉
Genial and great thanks!
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Thanks for the comment
Thank you so much for this detailed video. 90 second is too fast for my brain 😅
Glad it was helpful!
Можно попробовать зеркала для света
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Great Video :)
Thanks my friend 🙏✌️😉
What is the name of the lights you use?
Here’s the name of the flexible LED lights I currently use. bit.ly/4cz7i6j
You can also go on my channel bio for all other product I’m using.
Please let me know if you have other questions 😉✌️
Thank you!
Нравится съемка, у нас эндемики, мхи, лишайники красиво цветут, все цвета рвдуги, очень ярко.
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The second photo with continuous light is better.
Thanks for the feedback ✌️😉
Thanks for sharing
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Wothing your videos Davies, learning 😁
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Muito bom ! 📷👍
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The 2nd image is much better unlike the 1st one a little bit blowned out.
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Thanks for the comment
😊 Great ..
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Merci!
avec plaisir!😉
even twice😂 youtube showed me your shorts🎉🎉🎉
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Continuous lighting
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Flashes are just momentary blast of light. If you have enough of them and you know how to use them, they hold tremendous advantages over incidence lighting. Any type of light which illuminates the subject flatly can destroy the depth of what is photographed. Reverse time by 20 years and try accomplish what you are advocating with quartz halogens. LEDs and live view are your crutches.
There is a lot of truth in what you're saying, my friend, and I understand your point of view. It's true that regardless of the type of lighting you're using, if you don't know how to place and use them, your shots are going to be flat and boring. What I meant is that flash photography doesn't allow you to see the effect in real-time of what you're about to capture. So, continuous lighting is my go-to choice to learn how to see the effect of light in real time. You don't even have to look through your viewfinder; you can literally look with your bare eyes to see the effect of lighting on your subject, and unfortunately, flash photography does not allow that. Especially for the style of macro photography that I'm doing, where tiny light movement makes a huge difference in the final shots. I really appreciate your input, and I get what you're saying, but for me, continuous lighting is the best way to learn the effect of light in real time.✌️😉
@@DanielAucoinFineArt Certainly, what you see is what you get....almost. However the lesson of light dissipating to the square of the distance and light being additive plus the prediction of ratios is not learned or predicted in a meaningful way. Available ie ambient light reflected from an object and displayed on a screen is certainly more efficient. To me though it's like not moving your camera out of program mode. Or buying a camera with no depth of field preview button function. I feel there is a limit to the level of progression if the reason or theory behind the success is also learned. I believe the method of using diffusion hoods is over used and does produce an overall flat lighting. It is much like using a fill light only in the studio environment. It is vital that key lights and accent lights be applied at the proper ratios to see the truly the beauty of the object before our lens. Our eyes can only perceive the shape of an object from the light which is reflected from it. Texture in lighting gives us the ability to see forms much better. Shadows are key. We can both agree then it is not flash we abhor it is flat lighting which we see as a major mistake. What is called a radial or radiant hood is far too overused but to a point easier and successful. Several examples of technology had to mature to allow the system which you use to work. My wish would be the ambient light seen was modeling lights and the strobe light would create the actual image. Fiber optics would allow this. Anyway. Great discussion. It has been my pleasure.
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I support you Daniel🖖🏻
Thanks you 🙏😉
My dream
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Prefer continuous light one.
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support
Thanks, 🙏
0:22
Best 👍👍
Not really. It depends howw you use it and the purpose of your shots
Thanks for your feedback✌️
continues light of curse
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Sorry Daniel 😊
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sry but flash is essential with live bugs
Yes, that’s true for moving subjects.😉✌️
This loud title is only true for stationary objects. For a fly in flight, this technique is useless.
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Lost me on the intro. Neither one of those shots looks better than the other.
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Now make a tutorial on making even more click-bait titles.
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Not impressed. The images of the Forget-me-nots look so false - more like they've been taken in a studio than in the wild! I've been photographing wild flowers for over 40 years and I always use balanced flash with daylight to add just a little brightness to the subject while at the same time slightly under-exposing the background but without that false look that you achieve!
Thanks for your feedback 😉✌️