The Baader #2458100 1,25"/T2 Clicklock is a very good replacement for the stock lunt clamp on the blocking filter and it's also possible to put it on top of the original clamping part with the T2 threads.
I have the zwo version of that camera (I think, asi678mm). Man with the amount of detail you’re getting you make that equipment SING! I’m gonna have to watch this on repeat to get right. I just started imaging the sun like a month ago, so I’ve got a long way to go. 🤙🏽🤙🏽
@@DylanODonnellI hope you don't mind me asking you this instead of Googling it: if you put on a mount a telescope that the mount can barely hold, despite being advertised as adequate for it, does it get the shakes in time?
One tips if u do solar regular or like a maniac like me mark out where to put the legs every time. Save time on polar alignment. Did it when I did astrophotography from my balcony when I lived in a flat. From my house i just align the rig every time for solar on my appletree. Now its back to DSO and planets in sweden. Season change. Clear skies. Rock on dude 🤘
Fab pictures thanks - and I'm considering getting one of those cameras. My ASI224MC is great but lacks resolution for this. Re Autostakkert! I think that the usual workflow is to analyse first and then base the number of frames to use on the quality graph. I usually do lunar with a much bigger telescope and 10-25% quality is often best. With my tiny PST, I find that 50% is fine. You can have up to 8 options though - I might use 10, 25, 50 % for solar. Struggling with IMPPG - I can never seem to get it to do what you guys can do :)
Sounds like you need a C mount extension. I believe the threads that should be on the front of that camera are a C mount (old security camera standard), I know my QHY5III174M came with a little piece that would extend that nose out another 20 or so mils, great video as always.
Considering the sun is tripping balls as of late. It was kind of curious during the Perseid meteor shower this year was the aurora visible in the southern hemisphere that night?
Great video Dylan! I love solar images so much. I got my hands on the same lunt40 a while ago (finally) but had to replace the focuser on it. Is yours fine? Mine was rather..wobbly and awful. Btw, you can screw the camera on the telescope too, is there a reason you do it with the clamps?
@@DylanODonnell be glad! Changing the focuser on the LS40 is a pain, because the thread is also glued to the scope. And it has this weird adaper ring that's also glued. Anyways, you're a legend man. I appreciate your videos a lot!
Great job Dylan I've been looking at getting a new camera to use with my Lunt 35 & PST's but in the past when using a cmos camera I've always struggled with Newtons rings so I'm still using an old DMK with a CCD chip which suffers a lot less. Looking at the footage it seemed to perform well just the inward focus seems to be a pain which seems to be the norm on the smaller solar scopes. Maybe some sort of adapter or nose piece attached to the camera might help keeping it from moving around?
Yeh it's not a huge issue, I just have to be careful when I go to focus etc that I don't tug the camera out of place on this particular setup.. It's a killer combination otherwise!
You know I haven’t decided what to get myself due to monetary constraints but check the combinations here : byronbayobservatory.com.au/astronomy-calculator/?focallength=3910&fratio=11&pixelsize=4.63&xpixels=4164&ypixels=2796&eyepiecemm=&eyepiecefov=&binning=2&multiplier=1&custommultiplier=&target=orion&p1=&p2=&p3=&lucky=&telescope=783&camera=1047&eyepiece=
@@DylanODonnellin this case, British but living in America. I remember drooling, er I mean analytically perusing the Lumicon ads in S&T magazines when it was over $2 USD to £1 sterling. But even then the price of a good Ha kit was equivalent to a good 8” Newtonian on a good german equatorial
At 4:14, don't you see the etalon is not tuned? Also, while sharpening, the edges ring. A lot of tech, a lot of gear, and missing the basics. Marketing, the very reason this video came up in my feed.
@@DylanODonnell What's visible on your solar disk is the uneven contrast/detail, meaning half of the disk is slightly off band, combined with a vignetting. I'd move around the Sun in the field of view, trying to find the sweet spot, and also moving around the block filter for it might sag. TH-cam allows neither links nor graphics, so I'll PM you.
I've got a 678mc it's a really nice camera. I want a mono one and also the 568m to replace my finicky QHY 5II-L-M that the USB2 port has never really liked cables even when it was brand new. Literally just pulled my 678mc in off the tripod.. Had it out with the all sky lens incase of Aurora since it was Kp6 earlier.. No dice. Going to start imaging with my Coronado PST I just picked up for a deal. Kind of feel set for now with scopes.. Got the C8 for Deep Field, SVX080T for wide field and the Coronado PST for solar. I want to learn how to do time lapse on Solar with the Proms and for Flares. To be honest going back to a old question you asked in a video are you Team Jupiter or Team Saturn... Neither I am team SOL
From my experience it's better to resample 2x instead of drizzle for monochrome. Btw beware not to forget the camera in the sun, my zwo red has gone quite pale after so much solar.
Interesting .. why would resampling be better though? It doesn’t infer or add any more data, it simply quadruples every pixel? Drizzle uses an algorithm to get extra sub pixel data from the movement between frames.
Can we just take a moment to appreciate the effort Dylan puts in to flipping his videos right side up for those of us in the northern hemisphere.
He has amazing clinging onto the ceiling with his feet skills
Thanks for the breakdown. Will definitely give imPPG a try.
Also, nice F-35 shot.
Love the new camera. Thanks for sharing.
The Baader #2458100 1,25"/T2 Clicklock is a very good replacement for the stock lunt clamp on the blocking filter and it's also possible to put it on top of the original clamping part with the T2 threads.
Dude! That's such a nice result. I had a flash back to the solar video you did where you gave the Sun a demonic voice "look at me! LOOK AT ME! lol
Nice image with the 40mm, mainly Solar here with a 115mm
I have the zwo version of that camera (I think, asi678mm). Man with the amount of detail you’re getting you make that equipment SING! I’m gonna have to watch this on repeat to get right.
I just started imaging the sun like a month ago, so I’ve got a long way to go. 🤙🏽🤙🏽
QHY called me up and said it actually was meant to be sent to me 😄
lol
@@DylanODonnellI hope you don't mind me asking you this instead of Googling it: if you put on a mount a telescope that the mount can barely hold, despite being advertised as adequate for it, does it get the shakes in time?
Very helpful info Dylan, cleared up a couple of issues I'm currently having with my solar imaging so thanks for that.
Oh good!
Very awesome! Could you send Winter to the Northern Hemisphere if you are done with it?
One tips if u do solar regular or like a maniac like me mark out where to put the legs every time. Save time on polar alignment. Did it when I did astrophotography from my balcony when I lived in a flat. From my house i just align the rig every time for solar on my appletree. Now its back to DSO and planets in sweden. Season change. Clear skies. Rock on dude 🤘
Good tip.. I used to do that a lot!
Great tutorial!
Note that ImPPG can now also handle color images (since Feb 2023).
Oh really? I’m sure I installed mine more recently than that.. I’ll check it out, thanks !
Fab pictures thanks - and I'm considering getting one of those cameras. My ASI224MC is great but lacks resolution for this. Re Autostakkert! I think that the usual workflow is to analyse first and then base the number of frames to use on the quality graph. I usually do lunar with a much bigger telescope and 10-25% quality is often best. With my tiny PST, I find that 50% is fine. You can have up to 8 options though - I might use 10, 25, 50 % for solar. Struggling with IMPPG - I can never seem to get it to do what you guys can do :)
Sounds like you need a C mount extension. I believe the threads that should be on the front of that camera are a C mount (old security camera standard), I know my QHY5III174M came with a little piece that would extend that nose out another 20 or so mils, great video as always.
Considering the sun is tripping balls as of late. It was kind of curious during the Perseid meteor shower this year was the aurora visible in the southern hemisphere that night?
In AutoStakkert, you don’t need to drag and drop the file(s) specifically onto the “Open” button. Just drop the file(s) anywhere in either windows.
Really? I had no idea :)
Great video Dylan! I love solar images so much. I got my hands on the same lunt40 a while ago (finally) but had to replace the focuser on it. Is yours fine? Mine was rather..wobbly and awful.
Btw, you can screw the camera on the telescope too, is there a reason you do it with the clamps?
I must’ve got lucky with my focuser!
@@DylanODonnell be glad! Changing the focuser on the LS40 is a pain, because the thread is also glued to the scope. And it has this weird adaper ring that's also glued.
Anyways, you're a legend man. I appreciate your videos a lot!
Dylon, this bored the shite out of me, but I still love you man.
Not enough pp jokes . I am sorry.
Great job Dylan I've been looking at getting a new camera to use with my Lunt 35 & PST's but in the past when using a cmos camera I've always struggled with Newtons rings so I'm still using an old DMK with a CCD chip which suffers a lot less. Looking at the footage it seemed to perform well just the inward focus seems to be a pain which seems to be the norm on the smaller solar scopes. Maybe some sort of adapter or nose piece attached to the camera might help keeping it from moving around?
Yeh it's not a huge issue, I just have to be careful when I go to focus etc that I don't tug the camera out of place on this particular setup.. It's a killer combination otherwise!
Hi Dylan. Can you recommend a great planetary camera that pairs well with your new 14" Edge HD telescope? Thank you
You know I haven’t decided what to get myself due to monetary constraints but check the combinations here : byronbayobservatory.com.au/astronomy-calculator/?focallength=3910&fratio=11&pixelsize=4.63&xpixels=4164&ypixels=2796&eyepiecemm=&eyepiecefov=&binning=2&multiplier=1&custommultiplier=&target=orion&p1=&p2=&p3=&lucky=&telescope=783&camera=1047&eyepiece=
Nice vid! Always wanted to do some solar imaging, yet to make the jump.
May I ask why you use USD in aus?
Only because 90% of my audience are American. If I convert to AUD it’s like a million bucks.
@@DylanODonnell oh true 😂😂 I thought would have more Aussie being one of few!
@@DylanODonnellThat 000.1% is finnish
@@DylanODonnellin this case, British but living in America. I remember drooling, er I mean analytically perusing the Lumicon ads in S&T magazines when it was over $2 USD to £1 sterling. But even then the price of a good Ha kit was equivalent to a good 8” Newtonian on a good german equatorial
Neat!
At 4:14, don't you see the etalon is not tuned? Also, while sharpening, the edges ring.
A lot of tech, a lot of gear, and missing the basics. Marketing, the very reason this video came up in my feed.
What do you suggest?
@@DylanODonnell What's visible on your solar disk is the uneven contrast/detail, meaning half of the disk is slightly off band, combined with a vignetting.
I'd move around the Sun in the field of view, trying to find the sweet spot, and also moving around the block filter for it might sag.
TH-cam allows neither links nor graphics, so I'll PM you.
Ayyyy I use the ZWO version of this for my solar
❤
I've got a 678mc it's a really nice camera. I want a mono one and also the 568m to replace my finicky QHY 5II-L-M that the USB2 port has never really liked cables even when it was brand new.
Literally just pulled my 678mc in off the tripod.. Had it out with the all sky lens incase of Aurora since it was Kp6 earlier.. No dice. Going to start imaging with my Coronado PST I just picked up for a deal. Kind of feel set for now with scopes.. Got the C8 for Deep Field, SVX080T for wide field and the Coronado PST for solar. I want to learn how to do time lapse on Solar with the Proms and for Flares. To be honest going back to a old question you asked in a video are you Team Jupiter or Team Saturn... Neither I am team SOL
Team sol!
I find myself using a 1-3% image selection for 'Lucky imaging'.
I'm also mindful to avoid nearby thermals from heated roofs etc.
Yep, lower is good!
Please give my Solar Toolbox script a try. If you need help learning it, let me know.
actual STAR stuff!! 😎
☀️
Theft
im sure you would try an imx676 if had one
Always interested in solar but don't want to f#ck my sunny summer days by bringing on the astrophotograhers curse of clouds😢
All the best mate
Damo
Crime does pay
But it gets you a camera...
Yoh, like that bro that brings frozen meat to the BBQ just to eat your food...
🍖
Give me the camera!!!
Robbers, keepers
@@DylanODonnell how much is that camera and where could I buy it?
Hi Dylan, you can get an extension that screws on the end of those cameras. Should have been in the kit? 🧐
Love the F35 shot from the airshow too….
@@CurryEat3r $ 349.00 USD for the Mono version
From my experience it's better to resample 2x instead of drizzle for monochrome. Btw beware not to forget the camera in the sun, my zwo red has gone quite pale after so much solar.
Interesting .. why would resampling be better though? It doesn’t infer or add any more data, it simply quadruples every pixel? Drizzle uses an algorithm to get extra sub pixel data from the movement between frames.