How To Choose Your Chainrings + Cassette - GCN's Guide To Selecting Road Bike Gear Ratios
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 มี.ค. 2015
- Having the right gear ratios on your bike will make a huge difference to your riding experience. Here's a quick guide to how they work.
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Your gear ratios are defined by the size of your chainrings and the ratios offered by your cassette. Your tyre width also affects this to a certain extent, but by far the biggest influence us exerted by the chainrings and cassette.
On a road bike you have two choices of chainset. Standard, which is commonly 53x39 and compact, commonly 50x34. Cassettes generally offer gears in the range of 11-25 or 11-28.
In this video, Dan Lloyd explains how gear ratios are calculated and how you can use that knowledge to your benefit - don't forget to SHARE!
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When I was 62, I bought my first carbon performance bike (wish I could have afforded one 40 years ago....). Anyway, I had the bike shop set it up with a compact crank and 11-32 cassette. I am now 68 and am starting to have some knee problems but that's not because of the gearing. I am very happy that I opted for the compact in my situation - I'm sure it has helped me stay healthy and fit and still enjoying hill climbing. One negative is that I can power downhill to the extent I can with a pro chain ring. I have a touring bike with a triple which does allow the extremes of gearing. I can certainly power downhill at a faster speed on the touring bike, but the compact set on the carbon bike is definitely a good compromise for me at my age. [I love my triple when I am riding fully loaded on the touring bike! It's great!]
A good explanation for those who didn't understand gearing, it really is a personal thing for you to navigate your terrain.
34/50 Compact crank with 11-28T is a perfect combo from fast flat riding to steep climbs. For extreme long %20 gradient climbs 11-32T in the back should be fantastic.
I went 36/52 up front and 11-25 out back and I regret it. These 54 year old legs, ugh!!!
@@shinrips Same age here. I’m happy with 50-34 and 11-32. Rarely, if ever, do I think I need something harder than 50/11. 34-32 is nice to have on steep climbs. I usually keep it in reserve, just so I know it’s there if things get really hard.
@@shinrips That's what happens when you didn't spend the previous younger decades staying fit and keeping riding.
Back in 1986 when I started cycling 52/42 on the front and 13/18 on the back . Had a 6 speed block 13/21 for a while and the old fellas in the bunch used to tell me off for spinning too much although thinking about it these days 52/19 was a good gear . The chain was at a funny angle that used to freek them out.
Also, you'll probably want easier gears if you're touring at all. After several hours in the saddle, especially with all that luggage, you'll be grateful!
Touring bikes already have wide range of gears. Triple chainring in the front and 11-38 in the rear. Pretty decent, you can also swap out the rear cassette for a more extreme 11-42.
Riding 24 by 42 you can take a 35% grade with luggage like you not even trying.
I run 11-32 with 50/34. Been running that for years. I'm an older rider and still do on ok on most climbs but slower due to age I'm sure. Love the 32 in the rear.
There are a lot of bike tech/maintenance videos on youtube, but without doubt the ones with Dan Lloyd (or Simon also from GCN) presenting are by far and away the best.
I really enjoy watching people grind up hills with their 53/39-11-23.
+pedallin raw I can't help to laugh when people say compacts are too slow, as if they constantly spin out 50/11.
I've never spun it out! When it gets to the point where you do, you're going plenty fast enough.
So do I
So my 11-25 and 42-50
Very informative. Gave me the basics for a topic I knew very little about. Thank you!
+1 Compact 50/34
Rode a 105 Triple with 11-25 at the back for 4 years.
Now I have a 50/34 with 11-32 at the back, perfect for the flats in Holland but also able to climb in the hills of Limburg with some good gradient 12% +.
Jeroen Ransijn (or whoever), I'm still riding a triple, and haven't had a chance to try a compact yet. Could you answer a few questions?
With the big gap in chainring sizes, do you have to do a double or triple downshift in the back when you upshift on the front?
Do you often find that the gear ratio you want leaves you cross-geared?
To get the same range, do you find you have gaps between the gear ratios?
Thanks!
A double backshift, but that was the same case on my triple setup. No differance in that.
Sometimes, if I have headwind against me. In general not to extreme crossed. Not a problem for me anyway.
Dont really have gaps, but if you do switch to a closer ratio casette on the back that lets you have less differance in teeth (11 -25) unstead of my 11-32 that will end up a bit more differance in cadence betweenbthe rear gears as you shift.
There are hills in Holland?
Google "Cauberg". One of a dozen intense climbs in Limburg ;)
great to know - thanks!
I would also try to keep a straight chain line...to save wear and tear on the drive train. Pick gears so that big front and 2nd-4th rear are your most used ratios. (Easier to do if you live in a relatively flat area of course.)
Been suffering on the hills with 53/39 and 11-25 for 2 years, I like it, makes me to stand up from the bottom to the top of the hill.
But 53 is fairly large just bring it up to 25 and u are good .or I am probably wrong
Rugved Indulkar that’ll probably put a strain on the chain, derailleur and the cassette since it went diagonal. Anyway, on the bright side it’s a good low cadence(sufferfest) training✌🏻
I have been using a triple chainring with a 52/42/30 combination and 11-28 on an 8 gear cassette. I love this setup. It's something more akin to what you'd find on a nice touring bike than on a roadie, but it's the best of everything. My lowest gear ratio is just barely over 1 (It comes out to a 29-ish inch gear, off the cuff), which can haul cargo up a wall, while still providing me a nice big, heavy gear (52-11) for when I want to hammer out some speed. I highly recommend this, especially if you ride under load fairly often. Though to be quite honest, I'm ready to just build myself a 3-speed and be done with it. :3
Please do a video on ratios for Track Bikes. Thanks GCN!
Great informative video. I'll also add that for 90% of casual riders, a key is to get a bike with a 105 groupset- that will future proof you for a good long while. It's a great value as well and very smooth shifting set.
This helps a lot! I'm getting more and more into cycling and also self maintanance. It is crazy that there are so many things to learn!
This helps tremendously. Thank you .
Thanks for all the great videos and advice GCN!
Thanks for all the support Sloane
A lot more interesting than I thought! Thanks Dan!
I changed the front chain rings from 52 - 39 to a triple 48-38-28 and changed shifter to a shimano FDTY-710 works great, easy to pedal and left rear cassette as a shimano uniglide 6 speed that came with the road bike. Since it is an old Murray Adagio road bike, has 1 inch frame tubing, so I had to shim out the front shifter, and grind the bolt and mounting tab on the shifter since my shim was not thick enough, but it works well. Yes, the front derailleur works fine doing that, in fact shimano instructions list it as ideal with the crank gears I found cheap on ebay.
Great video to understand gears and what should i look for when im buying mi first roadbike now that im changing from mtb (for now a giant anyroad with50-34 and 11-32 seems ok), and also, Dan look even more "bossier" in 50fps!!
Love all your videos, keep up the good work
i love these GCN videos, our own modern bike encyclopedia!
2006 Specialized Allez Comp Triple is my ride and the better my fitness the more I enjoy having the triple. As a Clydesdale my main concern while riding alone is to have a durable ride. The triple lets me decrease the cross-chaining and because the more I ride, the better my gear selection technique and the kicker... my cadence increases. All of these reasons make me enjoy the small ring up the hills and then snap up to the big ring if I have energy to spare. It's fun passing everybody with my triple. Has there ever been a good study for large riders with regards to triple cranks?
I just bought an old 90s cosmos road bike to restore, so this is sure to come in handy.
52/36 and 11-34t. Got some crazy hills but some great flat and downhills
Yeah that sounds pretty nice, I'm using a 50/34 and then an 11/33 casette, it is so hilly where I live.
Top video, good job done Dan 👍
12-36 has good range of high & low gears...
12,13,15,17 good high end minus 14t cog
28,32,36 good low end for hills
To upgrade or not?
I was debating on whether or not to spend $4600 + $460 tax for new 2017/18 Paris Roubaix Expert + ~$2000 more for clipless pedals, Garmin, etc... The 2017/18 Paris Roubaix Expert is truly a beautiful bike, with a lot of new technology...
However, I decided to keep that money and upgraded my 2008 Paris Roubaix Expert Triplet instead, which already has clipless & Garmin and only had to add 12-36 cassette, RD hanger & new chain : $133 vs $5000-$7000 for new bike and accessories...
I suspect there's no paved roads I won't be able to climb with 36t in rear and 24t in front, bike only weighs 18-20 lbs, plus I still have fast gears for down hills and flats...
Chain Rings Ultegra:
52-39-30 before
52-39-24 now
Cassettes:
11-28: 11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-24-28 Ultegra CS6700 original
12-30: 12-13-14-15-17-19-21-24-27-30 Ultegra CS6700 - now
12-36: 12-13-##-15-17-19-22-25-28-32-36 SRAM PG-1070 going to
Parts Added / Swapped In
Shimano 24T... : Chain Ring Cog
Shimano CN-6701 : Ultegra chain
Shimano CS-6700 : Ultegra 12-30
Shimano M772 : XT RD
SO Roadlink RD hanger for 12-36
If for some reason 36 is overkill I'll go to 12-32 as majority of my riding occurs between 13,14,15,17.
I suspect I'll miss 14 cog when going to 12-36...
List of upgrades ( see 1st, 2nd 3rd )
11-28: 11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-24-28 1st
12-30: 12-13-14-15-17-19-21-24-27-30 2nd
12-32: 12-13-14-15-17-19-22-25-28-32
12-36: 12-13-##-15-17-19-22-25-28-32-36 3rd
I love riding my 50 x 42 with a 11 x 25 in the back. This works great, not alot of long killer climbs in my area.
same gearing here 50-42 11-34 i crash all killer climbs btw im only 18y
50-34 crank with 11-36 here, thanks to Sora-Alivio-Interchangeability. I use it on my gravelish commuter (grommuter) to tackle even steeper hills with ease.
That's exactly what I have! Loving it.
Very useful vid, sent it around to a few guys to help them get to grips with their gears.
Just a couple of things the boss has missed, hopefully Simon has put them there deliberately so I can win some swag!
1:35 in, stiff link in he chain. And also the Shimano chain should be on the other way round. Writing to the outside, cut out plates inside.
I'm a mountain biker, used to technical climbs with gradients that do not exist anywhere on roads and for that I run by most people's standards a maybe a bit narrow 12-36 x 36/26 gearing. After getting a road bike (on which I focus on touring, climbing and building my base), I have to say a 50/34 compact with an 11-28 cassette has become my go-to standard which I will not abandon. Still able to get really high speeds on the descents and I can tackle any, and I mean absolutely any climb out there without destroying my knees or getting too trashed to enjoy the rest of the ride.
Even if I was oriented towards more of a flat riding, I'd still run the compact, to be honest. Not necessarily because of the 36T chainring, but because a 53T chainring gives me quite a few gears which I never use on flat. I gave the 53/39 a fair chance but after switching to compact, I saw only positives with no drawbacks.
Would love to see a video of guys making a conversion from a old road bike to a single speed or fixed gear! :DD
Good guide, GCN!
Always awesome man thanks.
can you do a part two and go through tire diameter, crank arm length with the different gear setups?
top quality content as usual. great video
Off topic question, but what is that tool on the board directly to the left of the Boss, on the top, next to a blue park tool and what looks to be cone wrenches and an old BB tool? It's story of a clamp. I saw one being used to remove a Look bearing cartridge off the pedal spindal and always wondered what it is???
Thanks!
I've a kinesis crosslight cycle cross bike, fitted with 105 5800 group set and looking at fitting an 11-40 cassette by using a road link, having seen a few videos of this done the chain ends being to slack when going small small and over tight when running big big, so was wondering if it would be practical to run a 36-50 front ring instead of 34-50?
Hello GCN, I crashed my Specialized Tarmac Sport last week and broke the frame. It had a 52/36 double chainring set up. Yesterday I ordered a specialized venge lunchrace with a 52T XSYNC 1X chainring set up. I never used the small ring (36) in any of my rides as I live in boca raton, Florida and it's very flat here. What do you think about the Venge LunchRace? Please review the Venge LunchRace! Thanks for your videos :)
Am I going to get a significant higher speed on flat road, changing my 12-25 with 11-32 cassette? (Or any other with 11 lower ring, just because of that one highest speed) Right now I am riding a triple 50-39-30 chainset with 12-25 cassette. Thanks for any advice.
Hey guys loving the videos, need you help though on cassette's and teeth, currently have Dura Ace 10 speed rear cassette CS7800 11-23 (chain and cassette are brand new), I have recently bought some training wheels which needs a cassette. Ideally I want to keep the same chain and change out my wheels when racing and climbing/ short distances. So I will get a 10 speed cassette but should the same amount of teeth be the same as my current cassette 11-23? I know more teeth make it easier to climb but don't want to change the chain and chain length and mess about when all I want to do is swap out the wheels., any help would be much appreciated.
I am now seeing a 55/42 crankset. Would this then be faster than the "standard" 53/39?
And I would assume the former would not be so "helpful" in a climb but would fly faster on a flat.
for one trip at unknown loactions what best set? i like sprint alot and i dont want lose performances on flat and long climbs.
sir please answer this. if i have ratio which is 52/19=2.7:1 and then i change to 47/17=2.7:1. who is the lightest one?
What are the standard sizes for the Triple chainset? I have the old type non indexed front shifter with the lever on the frame. Will I need to change it if I switch standard to triple chainset?
Quick question. Im planning to upgrade my drivetrain from Claris to 105. can I still use my Claris crank on an 11-speed flywheel? thanks
Hi I am just new on cycling. I have an old shimano deore lx m560 3x 46t/36t/26t cranset. Is there an sti shifter that I can use for this? And what rear gears should you recommend that I use?
Thanks.
I have had my road bike for years with an 11-28 cassette. I ride in an area with pretty steep climbs and I’m now over 60 and the hills are not so easy anymore. Any suggestions on the next size cassette gear ratio to make climbing easier?
Thinking about going to 46/28 and 14-34 since i live near the mountains
Will it still be good on the flats?
On my old bike im not happy at all with the heavy gearing
So called 'pro compact' to throw into the mix, 52/36. Pretty good that the manufactures are now keeping the bolt centre diameter. This allows you to easily swap chainrings around - 11-28 11spd is becoming the standard cassette it seems.
There's an important difference between 11-28 and 11-28 cassettes: Where do 20T and larger start? For example, with SRAM it's 3 of 11 of the sprockets, Shimano about 5 of 11. So, SRAM is nicer for flat regions, Shimano for the more hilly ones.
Hi GCN. I'm a junior joining an ITT and I need to follow the UCI's rules. The distance should be 7.93m per pedal revolution. My problem is that I have a Di2 Dura ace 11 speed on my TT bike which isn't as easy to adjust compared to a mechanical group set.
Hi Tomas,
Shimano produce a 14-28t Ultegra cassette in 11speed, this will work fine with a 52T chainring. you wont need to worry about adjusting the limit screws.
thanks
Jon
I didnt walk away from this video with an understanding of how to order replacement parts. Do I need to buy the front and back sprockets as a matching package? Is there a place that lists my existing bike's parts?
Any thoughts on using a SRAM Red crankset with Ultegra 6800 groupset? Bike is a Cannondale Supersix with BB30 and Shimano don't cater for that, hence the thought. I know FSA or a BB adaptor is an option but wondered if there would be any issues with SRAM? Ta.
Hello GCN,
My e-bike has a 42T single crank and a 7 speed (14-28T) Shimano Tourney. When the bike is doing 15mph, my legs are going like the clappers, (not good for a 76y.o.). Is it best to fit a larger crank or change the rear cassette? I live in a flat area, your help and advise would be greatly appreciated, thanking you in advance, Ron.
Please can u do a video about wheel choice, carbon or alloy?
I have a campy short cage with 12-25 cassette and 52 34 chain ring. Struggling climbing up hills. What cassette can I get for climbing with the campy brand. Do I need to change the campy short cage derailer as well. HELP!!
Now I know why I'm flying by people on $2000 bikes up most relaxed climbs and being blown away on anything slightly steep. My old 80s Norco has a 14-28 cassette and a 52-42 chainring. I think Im going to change it out for a 52-36.
Hey GCN Can you make a video about climbing out of the saddle in wet conditions. It seems to be a problem for a lot of riders in the UK :)
Years ago I was always taught to leave my front mech in the relaxed position (little ring) when not in use. Now all the photos of bikes i see it's in the big ring. Is it just aesthetics or am I a bit outdated?
Hi. I'm looking for help i own bike trek checkpoint al 3 2020 but want to upgrade to hydraulic brakes but unfortunately can't find any brake levers which will fit 9 speed so for that reason want to upgrade all groupset to 10 speed. So I found on my bike rear hub is
Formula RX-142 alloy, 6-bolt, Shimano 11-speed freehub, 142x12 mm thru axle but dont really sure if I can fit 10 speed on this hub?I'm currently on 9 speed . If yes what spacers i need ? Thanks
back in the day we rode 12-18/19 (6-7sp) in back, and 52/46 or 44 or 42. 52/42 x 12-18 being most common. for a race in colorado you'd put on a 13-23. if you were a fit racer you rode that setup no problem. nowadays 53/39 x 11-28 pretty much covers it all. fit racer or recreational roadies can use the same setup off the rack... though the fat freds might need 50/34 x 13-32 with a long cage rear der.
I climbed a mountain road on my old Peugeot with 42 chainring and 28 chog and it was a grind, I think I’ll opt for a 36 to 34
Could you advise on crank length? Recent research seems to suggest the shorter the better - I am 6'1" and now use 170mm cranks. How about about investigating the science of crank length for us? Thanks
do you have a video explaining mid compact 52/36 with a 11/28?
Most popular is 50/34 on front (compact) and 11-28 on the back. But I always run 11-32 on the back. If you are on a ride where you don't know where you are or try a different route and suddenly find the gradient above 20% or you have blown or get cramp and need to get over some testing hills, you always have that last gear to let you spin away. There's nothing worse going to go down a gear and find you have none left. Going up 20% on a 28 starts to get to the point you are grinding up.
Define “grinding up” ?
I wish Shimano would also offer a 48/32 crank set. For me that would be better (on a cross bike). Now I am thinking about changing my 11-28 cassette against a 12-30. That would do the same right?
i want to convert my bike to 1x9 setup to go around the city is it ok to use 42t chainring on 12-36 casette?
Changing gears like a boss.
I have a 50/34 chainrings and I want to change my chainrings to a 52-36. Can I make that change with the same crankset?
Is it possible to manage an 18 tooth difference on the chain rings, e.g. 48-30?
52 front and 32 rear with short derailleur is it OK or a bit of abusive on the rear derailleur??
I'm looking at building a touring bike, I want to keep the road setup and will kit it out with a full 105 and a compact crankset. The bike will eventually carry panniers, mudguard etc. and will be pretty heavily laden, but I'll still need to make it up some pretty serious hills. 105 has the option of a 11-32 cassette, will such a big range on a 11 speed mean that the gear changes are clunky?
run a long cage and you should find the changes smooth enough on the 11-32. i ran a triple on mt mtb with that combo and a very long cage microshift mech. jumps are slower but not harsh
so as a rookie I need some help on this question; I have a 7 speed (single chainring 38T) bike with 7 cogs, Im getting a new freewheel with the 1st gear being 25T or so, will it make hill climbing easier?
Will a 36t sprocket fit an RD GS-size? Shimano's website indicates up to 34 only
Is it easy to change from compact ultegra to triple setup? Thx!
More and more pros are using 52/36, semi-compact or faux pro some are calling it and I believe 11-28 cassettes have become the standard?
Only on the most serious of decent will you ever spin out and you can go up pretty much any gradient (just) with the 36 x 28.
Seems the best combo for the every-solution bike for the every-man :)
Not for me it isn't. Flat North Germany (thanks, ice age!), 52-36 × 11-23.
I'm 44 and after ten years, I'm returning to triple with Campag' Athena 11. My only problem is that Campag' cassettes are all quite top heavy, with 12,13,14,15,16 tooth sprockets starting all their cassettes. I'd prefer 12,14,16,19 to prevent too bad a chain line whilst on the 52 ring at the front. We'll see.
Hi GCN I need help with my gearing please I have a 52 tooth chainset and a 12-26 casette I live in a very hilly area wit steep climbs is this good enough or if not what would be better ,thanks
Sean Hennebry Hi Sean, only you can answer this really. Firstly the important chainring for climbing is the inner one so we'd need to know what that is. The question is then do you struggle to ride at the right cadence when climbing? If you do then you'll find that swapping to an 11-28 cassette might help, and maybe dropping to a smaller chainring if possible.
No way. For hilly you need a 40t or smaller ring with your 26 cog. Preferably more teeth on the rear cog too depending on how strong you are. Learn about "gear inches" to understand all this.
at my age 50 ... i use this :
1. 700x25c tyres (for comfort)
2. A compact chainset with 34(36) inner ring and 48 outer..
3. Rear cassette using campag 12/13 -25/ 26 ... but change the top to 27 ... (i use campag and have found all rear derailleurs can cope with a 27 TOP even if not "specced" - mirage,veloce,centaur...
This formula is used on all my fleet
all this provides me with the flexibility and "under stress" my gearing which around perth WA (not really any hills)
Note its hard to find some of the rings and most have to be sourced from the UK not here in AUS
I just read about SRAM bringing in single chain ring gearing for road bikes. One possible example was a single 48 on the front with a 10-42 rear cassette. 10 tooth sprockets would require a new hub. But imagine a 42 tooth sprocket on the back!!
Even with 11 sprockets the jumps from 10 to 42 would be massive not to mention the weight of all those big tooth sprockets on the back wheel. That should make for exciting cornering.
I’m 11, and live in quite a hilly area, but I have a standard (53/39). I rarely use the big ring.
Even going down hills? 1x is great for flats not so will in hilly areas.
HiI use compact gears and have found after when I changed my 50 tooth chain ring to a 46 tooth the bike felt and was noticeable a whole lot more responsive. It kicked out of corners a full bike length than with the 50 even knowing I was in the same gear ratio (in a 46x16 instead a 50x17 ) pushing a 46 x 11 is still a big gear for most and as I don't race down hills it is not that often I run out of gears. Track riders do the same when selecting rations in races that surge a lot but use big chain rings in a race where they just need to sit on a high speeds. This is not for all riders but for what I do I will never go back to a 50 again. Recently on a bike with a 53 and strained my back in a lousy 30 k ride on a flat road.P.s the chain ring is 45 - 50 grams lighter for an added bonus.
Yeah 50 - 34 is not really to good. Specially 50 teeth. to heavy 34 to spinny. for most situations . 48 - 38 or 36 seems a much better industry standard.. Better chain lines on most used gears etc for the average joe...
Just purchased a bike online which comes with ultegra di2 and realized it comes with 52/36 front and 11/30 at the back.
I live in a very hilly area and I suspect I won’t be using the 52-11 so much….
And 36-30 for climbs might be too hard for a 46 years old me .
Should I try to switch to a 50/34 front ring? Or should I get an 11/32 cassette?
Would a 36-32 do, on climbs of 18-22%?
(I am just a beginner to cycling)
For climbing 36 chainring and 30 cog is a pretty low gear. I would opt for the 11-32 cassette to give you an even lower climbing gear. If you are relatively new to cycling, that should suffice until you get more experience and fitness. If you want really low climbing gears get the compact 50/34 with a wide cassette 11-34 or 11-36. That will get you up most any grade without too much struggle. Happy cycling.
might be a stupid question, but whats with the green tape on the frame? or is that part of the design
Can I use a 39/53 with a 12/30 using a 6700 short cage? Has anyone done this? I know the Shimano document says 28 teeth.
Would I have to add a chain link or two?
Thanks for the video. I have a question to you guys. I always put a right pressure into my tyres, whereas other not-pro-cyclist colleagues of mine prefer to roll on a soft wheel. They do complain a lot about punctures, but I am not. Is there such a strong connection btw. tyre pressure and punctures?
Dávid Hornyák Yes there is - if you're on a lower pressure then it's easier for pinch punctures to occur and generally lower pressures = more punctures.
Global Cycling Network Are you sure about that? The usual thought is that higher pressure=more punctures, and lower pressure=more impact flats.
+Alexandar Hull-Richter higher pressures do reduce punctures that have been the rule forvas long as i can remember in both road and mtb. tubeless came about for low pressure use.
I have an old Raleigh Elan that currently has a bent crank and I want to upgrade it. I currently have a 7 speed cassette however most modern cranks aren't made to work with a 7 speed cassette. Does that actually matter? I am not a pro. I just had my crank wobbling while I am riding.
+sonomama82 hi, you should be able to find something to work ok.
11-28 cassete can be used with crtank 53/39? From wich cog is okay start the cassete 11 12 or 13. 11 and 12 is only for downhills?
thank you for your answer. In my bikes i have short cage i not know if i can use bigges cog more than 28 but that 11-28 cassete you say sounds good. i have 9 speeds cassete on my bikes is 12-25 but i feel i need more low gear. have try in 700 feet elevation short steep hill the 53 ring and 23 cog i do uphill stayed in the saddle but the trail i ride have harder hills and i feel i need lower gears.I have 3 road bike one TT bike and one mountain bike i not want sale them i like my bikes but i try make good just one bike and ride that bike always. in all 3 roads bikes and TT bike i can use the same wheels. One road bike is aluminum 126mm dropouts the other old steel road bike is also 126mm the dropouts but i manage to use 9 speeds wheels in that bikes
Advice pls....would 52/36 with 11/32 at the back be a good idea for a touring bike?
That gearing gives you the ability to climb steep hills and gives you a good top end gear. I'm wondering what you mean by a touring bike as road racing bicycles are often called that. If you mean Touring Bike as in travelling long distances with saddle bags and heavy gear, you will likely need lower gears. For fast riding and even racing, 52/36 with 11-32 is an excellent setup.
I'm looking at MTBs to replace my old bike. But here's the problem. I have a 26" wheel bike and I'll probably want a 27.5 or a 29" wheel bike, so what does that do to gear ratios? (It's like 4,5 and 6 percent differences. Just enough to be confusing, but not small enough to not matter.)
The online calculators are helpful, but they ask for tire size, and then they give you every number for every combination of gears. TMI! I don't know enough to understand anything more than my lowest combination for climbing and my highest gear combo for speed. So I'll only look at the top and the bottom. All I need is to be able to quickly convert gear ratios and wheel sizes to numbers I can compare. Gear ratio x wheel size is all that's needed.
My current 26" Fisher has a low gear ratio (smallest Front Gear / largest rear gear) of .88, I want to do better than this (meaning a lower number). But what would this be on a 27.5 and 29? well 26 x .88 =22.9 (this is a conversion number) An equivalent gear ratio on a 27.5 wheel would be 22.9/27.5 = .83, and 22.9/29= .79 I struggle on some of my climbs, so I want a bike that will climb better than my old Fisher, so for a 26" that would be better than .88, for a 27.5 better than .83 and for a 29 better than .79. Now all I have to do is count sprockets and do a little math. (Comparing what you know with the bike in front of you... this is a lot easier and more understandable then the huge charts)
For the top end same thing; my bike's fastest gear combination (Front/back) is 3.43 , some new bikes are 4.00 and some of the single front sprockets are only 2.73. (But the wheels are bigger.....) So 26 x 3.43= 89, 27.5 x 2.73 = 75, 29 x 2.73= 79. Both are much slower than what I have now. However a 4.00 x 27.5 = 110 and 29= 116. much faster than what I have now. The 1x10 bike that tops out at only 72 and 79 might be okay on trails only, it's going to be slow on pavement to and from the trail.
To compare speeds Wheel size x (Front/Rear gears) x Cadence / 336= mph ( change to /210 for KPH)
so if my Giant Boulevard city bike has an 8 speed Shimano block 11-28t can I change this for a 10 speed, or would the hub I have only allow a maximum of 8 gears? I'm thinking a 14-34t might suit better since I only have one chainring and on the flat short roads of Cambridge there is little need for that bottom 11 or 13 rings, but seems they all start 11-28t to 11-34t
You can get a Sora 8s cassette in 13-26, if it's flat where you ride it should be good, unless you have often found yourself using the 28 on your current cassette.
I don't think I've ever used the 11, 13 or 28t since it's quite upright cycling position, so a 13-26t could be a better ratio. My shifter is 8sp so would've had to change that too
Is it possible to use a shimano setup (105 10s)with a campy crankset(old 10s record)?(I had to change my entire set but i dont have money for a new crankset)
It'd work, but not as good as a Shimano crankset. I have some friends riding like that and their only problem is when they use mid-lowers cogs of the cassette with the small chainring and the other way round.
Can you do a video of how the gears work? I haven't found a good video. Like so far I've gathered that it has a lot to do with the ratio of the gear that's in your pedal compared to the gear in the back because then there are more rotations in the back of the wheel per rotation of where your feet are on the pedals. Anyway I think I kind of get it but there isn't actually a video that explains it well
i have a shitty old schwinn bike. it's a 24 speed with shimano altus with 700c tires. how do i know what rear cassette and chainring will fit? they are due for replacement since some teeth a broken and or worn. can i use any cassette manufacturer or must it be shimano? i'm a noob and not looking for anything fancy
hey guys i am using an 11/28 cassette and and 50/34 chainrings do you think it is good for climbing or should I change something and if so what to what
thanks
seems just perfect. if you're still grinding on the hills you could acquire a casette with more teeth (11x32 for example).
Rodrigo Delgado thanks man!!!
So a mountain bike with 11x42 cassette and 26-36 chainring is it fast or no? I am looking for a fast mtb can somebody answer to me please?
Is the chainring has different selection that regards to speed number? Like the chain, 11spd chain shouldn't be using for 9spd casseste.
Chainrings are slightly more versatile than chains or cassettes, but it's best to check if the chainrings you want to use are suitable for the set up you have
@@gcn thanks! Appreciate it.
@@gcn another question, recently after I did freehub servicing. After I put everything back, then when I ride my bike, sometimes the chain seems not moving smoothly and losing the tension. It become worst if I did the backpedalling. Could you suggest what should I do?
You're leaving out the most important part of gear selection: Ride! It's great to suggest a setup to start with, but you're not going to know what gears you'll want to really ride with until you're already riding. Many times people's riding changes, and they want to use different gears than they liked before.Don't be afraid to change things up if you don't like it!
i got an shimano 105 11 speed groupset with 2 rings in the front. currently running a 11-32 casett and 50/34 is there i possibility i could run something like 50/32 in the front?
velo1337 34 is as low as you can go at the front. I'd say you're pretty much maxed out in terms of cassette size too I'm afraid.
Global Cycling Network Though a little hard to find, I think 33 is the lowest for 110 BCD/PCD. So a 33-34 front-rear combo is possible.