Anycubic Vyper Dragon Hotend mod
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 เม.ย. 2024
- I wanted to upgrade my Anycubic Vyper with a Dragon V2.0 hotend. Unfortunately, it isn't a straight forward modification which cost my some time. First, I had to use an 3d printed adapter. Second, I had to change the thermistor. I also wanted to use a 50W heating cartridge, but the board couldn't handle it. Therefore, I stuck with the original 40W heater. Finally, I went for a 5015 fan mod to increase part-cooling. Here are the links to Thingiverse and parts you need. Big thanks to the 2 designer of the free .stl files!
- V6 hotend adapter www.thingiverse.com/thing:502...
- Dual 5015 fan holder www.thingiverse.com/thing:497...
- Dragon V2.0 hotend www.banggood.com/custlink/mDK...
- 100k thermistor www.aliexpress.com/item/32839...
- M3 threaded brass inserts 5mm length www.aliexpress.com/item/33008...
0:00-0:16 Trianglelab Dragon V2.0
0:17-0:24 V6 hotend adapter
0:25-1:38 dual 5015 fan mount
1:39-2:05 housing removal
2:06-2:20 fan removal
2:21-2:48 V5 hotend removal
2:49-2:55 unplugging
2:56-3:48 Dragon installation
3:49-4:47 fan holder installation
4:48-5:03 automatic levelling
5:04-6:06 Cura settings
6:07-6:58 Benchy print
6:59-8:00 printing quality
on. unboxingexperience
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Needs a PID and retraction calibration Thank you for posting this! Very informative, I'm leaning doing this since I'm print ABS and ASA. I want to print PC next.
Thanks, I didn't get any software to run on my new mac so I couldn't do a PID autotuning.
You and all the other "Experts" forget the Boron Nitride Paste at Sensor and heater everytime. The Standard vyper hotend don't need it because it is designed to fit at factory. But if you Put the hotend together DIY you need it to make full contact to the surface. And If you got different materials with heatblock and nozzle Like Cooper heatblock and stainless nozzle you need it at the nozzle too.
This is a good point but no need to be snarky about it
😂 you realized. This isn’t a mosquito hotend right?
Is it worth it? Do the owl image that comes with it and see if that turns out the same. Why did you want this hotend instead of the volcano it comes with?
I was not overwhelmed by the printing quality of the standard Vyper. Right out of the box, the printing results of the Dragon hotend look better to me. Moreover, you can print with higher temperatures.
@@Unboxingexperience7 i think the mod is not that overwhelming to
Hi there, did you have to increase the flow rate in cura?
I only did PID tuning and lowered retraction. But back then I didn't know about all the tuning options...
Don't those larger fans draw more amperage? Is the board capable of handling the higher draw?
so far so good
I havent' found a printer yet that can't support a pair of 5015 blowers. However you will not have to run cooling at 100%. I barely run mine more than 30-40% and still have WAY better cooling than the stock fans, and they're quieter that way too. 5015s at 100% sound like a jet turbine at the runway.
Well to answer ur question. Since the creator of this vid didnt link us to any fans i got some myself and tada, i fried my printhead board. I made a video on this mod on my second channel @fullyfictive, where i also put links to the right parts, with right ampage etc.
Heatblock does not look tall. Did you use the volcano nozzle or standard nozzle?
Volcano
Hi, Would this adapter maybe fits a E3d Revo six?
It should, yes
were you ever able to get the Revo Six to work on your Vyper? I bought one and I can't get the wiring adapted correctly. I turn on the printer and the nozzle temp takes off and i get a thermal shutdown
I just done all these mods but used the e3d rego hot end done a pid tune and a few adjustments and it’s printing spectacular.
Thanks for this and the thingiverse parts are an excellent fit
please post a link to the correct threaded inserts you used.
added (m3 5mm length)
Where did you get the new plugs you soldered on to the wires you cut?
aliexpress
I can't seem to find this mod to buy. And the link you provided does not work
Well, only hotend and fans can be purchased. So you need to print the parts. I ve checked the links, they are working
But u can still use the auto leveling bed?
yes. therefore, you need the v6 adapter to use Vyper's hotend mount which includes the strain gauge sensor.
i have Dragonfly BMO hotend with Ceramic Cartridge Heater 24V 50W and thermistor NTC 100K
how can i change the heater and thermistor settings from the firmware?
Connect the printe rvia USB to your computer. Use a marlin capable software like pronterface. Then start auto PID tuning by entering a G-code (“M303 E{heater number} S{target temperature} C{number of cycles}”)
@@Unboxingexperience7 I do that but I have a big difference in prices
I put it for 205c and I had from 201 to 210c
and when I choose to put 300c when it arrives I get an error
I think the vyper has a heat limit at around 260C. Not sure how to get rid of it.
@@Unboxingexperience7 Yes I know it has a 260c limit and that is what I want to change.
but again when I pid I have a 10 degree deviation and this is a problem that I do not know what to do ...
@@georgemousas5686 you have to change firmware
Any way to get around this without resoldering the wires?
you just need to find fans with the right connector, I'm not 100% sure but I think it is 2-pin PH 2.0
@@Unboxingexperience7 the thermistor and heater have standard connections then?
Have you printed above 260 degrees with this mod?
No, I didn't adapt the firmware except of PID tuning. I think Anycubic limited it to 260°C
does it work with an e3d revo six ?
were you ever able to get the Revo Six to work on your Vyper? I bought one and I can't get the wiring adapted correctly. I turn on the printer and the nozzle temp takes off and i get a thermal shutdown
Did you have to change the firmware at all since you changed hot end systems?
Just PID tuning
super la music mais sa ressemble plus un une vyper
je veut parler de l tete