Good job Wendy! FYI, when you are ready to store your small engine equipment for the season it's best to run it and drain all the fuel out of the tank and carburetor. Or you can start it up every several weeks and add fresh fuel. (More Expensive) Their are a few very good fuel additives that I trust, Lucas Safeguard, Echo Red Armor, Stab-Bil 360 and Starbright. It sounds like you need to remove the carb on your unit and give it a good cleaning, if it still surges, check out Taryl Fixes All or Steve's small engine repair, great informative videos. Also when you drain the oil, remove the dipstick to help drain the oil and I like to poor a few ounces of fresh oil into the crankcase to remove the rest of the old oil out, especially since these engines only hold 20 ounces of oil and no oil filter.
Thanks! Others suggested a higher octane fuel or an ethanol free fuel to prevent future gunk. I did buy a new carburetor that I plan to install once the snow season is done (I soooooo don’t want to mess the thing up during winter when I need it!). I will check out those channels-hopefully one will show me how to do that work.
Fantastic work. Those Torch plugs that come from the factory are junk, even new ones make the motor run poorly compared to Champion or NGK. I use a square of aluminum foil to form a tray to direct oil away from the machine. Once done, I shake it off and toss it in the recycling.
I have exactly that same snowblower, it’s four years old. I had the exact same problem. I did exactly what you did and it started. Ran a little rough so I just let it run on choke for awhile get more of the old gas out of it eventually it smoothed out. Put it on run and bingo. Awesome 👌🏼
Glad you had success! I have had lots of feedback/comments suggesting I use high octane/ethanol free fuel to avoid gumming the carburetor in the first place. I’m definitely going to follow that advice! I did buy an extra carburetor from Troy-bilt ($80) that I’m going to keep on hand-that seems to be the thing that would need to be “fixed” next (soooooo not going to take apart a carburetor, but I’d be willing to replace one-many youtube videos on that!).
Always run your blower on High test non ethanol gas. Bought a used Ariens Deluxe 30 snowblower 5 years ago, started using Shell Ultra premium gas ( non ethanol) as soon as I got it & it cleaned up the carb & have had no problems since. I don't empty the fuel out of the tank after sitting all summer & it fires right up on one pull.
If you can buy 94 octane ethanol free fuel in your state use that in your snowblower and it will run great. I use a product called Sea Foam and I add a capful of it every time I fill up the tank. It will keep your carburetor and fuel system clean and it also acts as a fuel stabilizer. I run that in my snowblower, lawnmower, and rototiller and all the spitting and sputtering and engine surging is gone and they will all start even when they have not been run in months at a time.
I got mine together today. I don't have the space to put it away fully assembled. I remove the upper handle /control panel and snorkel rotation rod. It's the second season for it so I haven't change the OEM oil yet. I make a gallon of gas at a time. I add STA-BIL 360 to the fuel and run it out of fuel at the end of the season. Its much better at straight path clearing, not easy to turn around or back up. I use my 20 inch Toro for side walks out to the street and walk ways to the steps..
You can go one step further when you have time by using some really small drill bits to clean out the carb buildup in those screws that hold the carburetor together and that clears up the surging.
I have the same blower with similar symptoms, runs best between choke and run, ill have to look at the carb, but it always starts right up. I definitely recommend non ethanol fuel for any equipment that is prone to sitting for extended periods. The ethanol fuel doesn't last and attracts water, which settles to the bottom of the tank and goes right to the carb on gravity feed, hence no start, bad running. Sometimes you can open the carb drain and watch the water run out. I put my blower away last spring with 1/4 tank and no stabilizer and when I pulled it out in November it fired right up. Most people will tell you to drain the fuel or fill the tank and add stabilizer when putting away for the year, but I have found that unnecessary with ethanol free fuel.
Many people also mentioned the non-ethanol fuel or high octane fuel and I have totally bought some. I would very much love to NOT have to putz with it every year!!! Thanks for mentioning I don’t have to empty the tank-I got mixed feedback on that and I must say that I would rather NOT do that.
@@wendygrossereducational3737 Other than spilling my socket set with 20 years of collected "parts" in the snow, it went beautifully. Your instruction is clear and the camera work is good. So frustrating when you can't see what's being done. And, btw, I'm in Erie, PA where it is rarely warmer than anywhere else. 😉 Thanks again.
@lbialk yes, I realized I misspoke and put in the pop-up words. My bad. I definitely have a 4 cycle engine and used 4 cycle engine oil. Also, the bag is clearly labeled 4 cycle so hopefully that will be another clue.
Glad you got it fixed. Always satisfying, that’s for sure. Donyboy73 up in Canada is my go to guy on TH-cam for snowblower repair videos. I switched over to “Truefuel” instead of gas. It’s more expensive, but I don’t have as many carb issues. I was never a fan of fuel stabilizers.
You are an inspiration to those who are intimidated by working on their outdoor power equipment. When it comes to plugged up carburetors, it is best to completely disassemble the carburetor and clean everything. Don't forget to take out the emulsion tube and clean all the tiny holes. There are many videos on doing a complete disassembly and Indepth cleaning. Ethanol in the fuel is what cause all the problems, especially during storage. If possible, once the carburetor has been completely cleaned, use non ethanol fuel. If that is not an option, then use fuel stabilizer in all your outdoor power equipment fuel, and when the season is over, drain all the fuel out of the carburetor and fuel tank. Witner is right at the door, it's time to our snow machines ready. Oh yes, I see you used 4 cycle snow blower oil. Most don't realize air cooled 4 cycle engines use special additives to deal with moisture and the higher temperatures air cooled engines run at. And for those who are sticklers towards using full synthetic only, it is available in 4 cycle 0w30, 5w30 and in summer 10w30, straight 30 weight and so on.
Thanks for your insights. Someone else mentioned non-ethanol fuel and I am definitely going to use that once I use up my current fuel. I don’t feel like I want to tackle taking apart a carburetor at this point :-) so I did buy a new one that I ended up not using-one scary new thing at a time for me :-). I really wanted to take this to someone, but I couldn’t find anyone nearby who did this stuff and I couldn’t get it there anyway. I am happy I was able to get it working by myself! I wish local places offered classes on small engine work. :-(
@@wendygrossereducational3737 One note if you replace your carburetor with a new one. Before installing the aftermarket carburetor, take off the float bowl and tap it lightly on a table or some hard surface. Look for tiny particles that may fall out. Also blow on the other part of the carburetor to remove any particles that may be left behind from the machining process. You would think that would be done by the manufacture before boxing the carburetor.
@@wendygrossereducational3737 Wendy, I would still take the float bowl off and tap it lightly on a table. From all the videos I have watched, even a genuine Troy Bilt carburetor could have small particles that could cause problems. Taking the float bowl off is very simple. Just make sure you take note where the drain plug is facing. That way when the carburetor is back on the machine the drain plug is in the right location for easy access. Sense your snow blower starts, trying the Sea Foam may take care of your carburetor issues. Fresh fuel is important, because of the ethanol in today's fuel, fuel absorbs moisture and loses its ability to burn properly. What a lot of people do, is pore the old fuel into their vehicle and then fill the fuel container with new fuel, ethanol free if you can find it. Adding Sea Foam to small engine fuel containers when filling them is also a good idea. I have been doing that for years with good results. Hope this helps. Have a blessed and enjoyable Thanksgiving.
If you burn your face off with the gasoline tank open for an hour in an unventilated garage while spark plug testing on a damp early evening, just before the winter holidays, be sure to come back on the internet for advice. Double bravo - go for it!
Use engineered fuel, (TruFuel). No ethanol in it, has a 3 plus year shelf life. A little pricey, but worth it. You will not have a fuel related carb problem.
Many have said the same thing and I bought a can of it. I have to wait until I use up the fuel in the tank before I pour it in (I assume) but I totally plan to do this. Sure wish I knew about that stuff before!
Good luck! I have had a lot of very knowledgeable people tell me I need to use high quality fuel (no additives best) and fuel stabilizers to keep this from happening again. I certainly took that advice! So far the thing started up again this year (not that I’ve needed it).
I went to an auto store and gave them my Troy-bilt part number 951-10292. They looked it up on the computer. You can always go to the Troy-bilt website and order it there.
guessing you are right, but that oil was gross. I was seriously ready to replace the carburetor and probably need to still do that at some point, but at least the thing was running by the snow that fell the next day.
I'm no expert but this works for me; I run my equipment with 87 octane mixed with Stabil fuel stabilizer during the season. At the end of the season, I drain all remaining gas and pour ethanol-free gas to run 10 to 15 minutes. Drain any remaining gas and done with the fuel part. This has not failed me. Ethanol-free fuel is about $8 a quart but I rather pay that than try to figure out what the problem is when the snow starts coming...
No joke! The day after I made this video, it snowed. So happy to have the snowblower working. Others have suggested the ethanol free stuff as well or at least a high octane fuel-I was going to look for the ethanol free stuff, but may have to go with 93 octane. Also, something called Sea Foam, which I know the local hardware store carries.
That's what I run in all my equipment 91 octane. When the season is over, I run 91 with Sea Form to get it in the system then I drain the gas out then run it dry. Never had any problems.
We have a small engine chat Saturday afternoon with some of the heavy hitters joining us like Bruce's Shop and Mick's Mowers. You should check it out. Even The Lawn Mower Lady chimes in from time to time. Here's the link: th-cam.com/video/gDpzolt-820/w-d-xo.html
Ethanol is a small engine killer. But if you absolutely HAVE to use it, treat it with Seafoam and/or Stabil 360. The treated ethanol gas will last 2-3 months, but after that, get rid of it. (Dump it into your car or truck). After the winter season, evacuate ALL treated gas from the snowblowers gas tank. (A hand-operated siphon pump works great for this. The kind with the rubber squeeze-ball.) Then, run the blower on the gas left in the fuel line and carb bowl until it stalls. Then, add an engineered fuel (such as True-Fuel) to the tank and let the blower run for a few minutes. Your task is now complete, and you can rest easy that your blower will start right up next winter. 😁
Hey Wendy I hate to break this to you but I’ve been doing this for 60 years that was good change the spark plug if you forgot one thing I forgot the gap it you put the wrong oil in it that doesn’t take two cycle oil you need to put 5W-30 engine oil in
Thank you for your feedback! I did put in the correct oil-I just said it wrong. That is why I added text at that spot stating I misspoke. I realized my boo-boo in editing and couldn’t figure out how to voice over at that point. The little oil bag does have the correct specs as well, so hopefully people will notice that? As for the gap, I did compare the specs on the new spark plug with the Troybuilt manual and they were identical (the auto store guy swore they were, but I wanted to be sure).
@@wendygrossereducational3737. Hey Wendy I’m glad you caught that mistake I had me a little nervous there for a bit for two cycle oil in the war cycle the job
Throwing parts at something is a rookie move and not what is wrong. You have to watch auto supply stores as they have no idea what they are doing other than reading a computer. I changed the plug for someone last winter that they replaced, it was the WRONG PLUG . The carburetor was green to the point it was destroyed. I keep telling owners to get recreational fuel for their equipment because ethanol fuel destroys small engines by attracting moisture. Being a snow blow sits more than it's run, leaving old fuel in the machine destroys the fuel system. All that smoke told me the carburetor was the issue. 98% of what I do is fuel related concerning small engine repair.
Yep. I got a lot of feedback regarding the fuel and definitely plan to make that change. I sure wish there was some sort of class/manual on small engine upkeep. It is really frustrating to not know how to take care of my yard and garden machines. I’m sure in the “olden” days people would just learn from their parents, but. nowadays that is not the case (it certainly wasn’t in my case). Not only that, it’s near impossible to find anyone near by who even services these things. Hence the reason I had to resort to TH-cam videos :-(
My snowblower was dead for 5 years. I waited until this year to finally watch TH-cam videos on how to fix it. I started just like you did. Spark plug first, then oil change. Unfortunately, I did have to replace my carburetor. Which was a lot cheaper than I thought it would be. All in all, I spent no more than $50! Definitely a good feeling being able to fix things like this yourself.
@@makeitgo I’m sure I’ll need to replace the carburetor (I do have the part), but it’s too cold to try that now. I’m going to try the high octane (low ethanol) or ethanol free gas and the sea foam everyone is suggesting and hope that does the job for now. The spare carb was $80-not bad in the scheme of things.
Wendy, I found a video that explains the reason for dropping the float bowl and checking for tiny metal shavings. Hope this helps. th-cam.com/video/PA6GfUcGMKI/w-d-xo.html
It ain't always that simple, a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing in the wrong hands as we are not all naturals at this sort of thing. There's gasoline which doesn't just burn it's far more explosive than other fuels, and its 'mischievous', people don't realise because their only experience of it is a nozzle in gas tank. For example, as in heavy, damp, seasonal air conditions in the open, plus your equipment has electricity and a spark plug, these things require an understanding and awareness before a complete novice does anything handy and acquires too much confidence for their skillset! Both can be a dangerous combination.
True. It is important to know one’s limits. While I am not a small engine mechanic, I am a fairly handy person and this work was totally within my comfort zone. I do realize it isn’t always this simple, but thankfully in my case-and in perhaps other’s cases-it was. My blower was up and running for the snow that fell the very next day.
THATS THE WRONG OIL THAT IS FOR 2 CYCLE ENGINES YOUR BLOWER HAS A 4 CYCLE ENGINE 2 CYCLE OIL WILL DESTROY YOUR ENGINE ITS MADE TO BE MIXED WITH GASOLINE
I mistakenly called it 2 cycle oil (hence the words that flashed up to correct). If you stop the video and read the bag it says Premium 4 cycle engine oil. No worries! It’s all good :-)
I used some seafoam spray and it did nothing! Don't buy a Craftsman they rust real fast and the engine is a bit temperamental, buy German, Dutch, or Japanese and if Korea makes a cheaper one buy that! Don't buy China brands! 👎 Sadly 'our' own companies don't seem to be very flexible and fast on their feet, never learn. They should learn to copy those who do it better, like part of Asia does, then maybe we'd have small engines that can live out in all weather and start up every time with no maintenance, like my old Honda mower did for decades. I don't know more than one brand of N.American snowblower that isn't "fussy", tempramentle, and at some point while still young - a royal pain in the goji berries! A.my neighbors say oil leaking spark ug on a 1 year old s. blower, won't start etc.
Its a junk chinese Carb my neighbor Got a Troy bilt at the end of 2021 started once. would not start this year I cleaned the carb and its find These companies are putting out junk and charging way to much with chinese parts the whole motor might be chinese
Ethanol in the fuel is the problem. No matter if it is a factory carb or an aftermarket carb ethanol will cause the same problem. And every snow blower manufacture uses engines designed by them (to their specs) but built mostly overseas. Even the biggest brands such as Ariens and Toro use engines bult overseas. And, when replacing a carburetor with a new one, always take the float bowl off and check for small particles. Use compressed air to lightly blow out the bowl and the rest of the carburetor. Small particles can cause blockage and make a new carburetor seem like junk.
Hey there, Wendy. Safety first! Take of that ridiculously old-hat pretentious looking head gear, it's so played and the aboriginals get enough charity now from tourists but more importantly if your day bits get caught in an auger or something your hair could then follow and it's just really against all wise safety practices when working on machinery! It'll put you in hospital sooner or later if you get into doing more of this stuff. Even if it ain't pulled off your head, you might instinctively reach to save it and chew your hand up with the blower or worse the mower. It sets a bad example too for anyone else flowing your channel. Point 2: Whenever using tools and heavy materials don't when dangling jewellery, loose wrist straps etc.and don't wear your best wrist watch and preferably not your best glasses. At some point they will get damaged! Working on cold weather, doesn't matter, you must take the scarf off if you wear one while working one machinery. Finally, we all know about goggles and frostbitten fingers, nose, etc, it can happen quicker than one thinks. Think twice, act once - safely. Good luck fellow D.I.Y.ers. Happy holiday Wendy.
Hey! I love that hat! It’s full on wool with fleece lining and warm enough (when layered with my light weight face mask) to keep me warm in these lovely Minnesota winters. I’m not worried about it getting caught in anything spinning, because I’m not foolish enough to stick my hand in anything spinning-that is what off switches are for :-)
Nice job Wendy. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you. Just bought a used blower like yours and will check the items mentioned.
Good job Wendy! FYI, when you are ready to store your small engine equipment for the season it's best to run it and drain all the fuel out of the tank and carburetor. Or you can start it up every several weeks and add fresh fuel. (More Expensive) Their are a few very good fuel additives that I trust, Lucas Safeguard, Echo Red Armor, Stab-Bil 360 and Starbright. It sounds like you need to remove the carb on your unit and give it a good cleaning, if it still surges, check out Taryl Fixes All or Steve's small engine repair, great informative videos. Also when you drain the oil, remove the dipstick to help drain the oil and I like to poor a few ounces of fresh oil into the crankcase to remove the rest of the old oil out, especially since these engines only hold 20 ounces of oil and no oil filter.
Thanks! Others suggested a higher octane fuel or an ethanol free fuel to prevent future gunk. I did buy a new carburetor that I plan to install once the snow season is done (I soooooo don’t want to mess the thing up during winter when I need it!). I will check out those channels-hopefully one will show me how to do that work.
Thank you so much I have the same one for 13 years now only once I had fix the carb I like to run it dry and no problems
Fantastic work. Those Torch plugs that come from the factory are junk, even new ones make the motor run poorly compared to Champion or NGK. I use a square of aluminum foil to form a tray to direct oil away from the machine. Once done, I shake it off and toss it in the recycling.
I have exactly that same snowblower, it’s four years old. I had the exact same problem. I did exactly what you did and it started. Ran a little rough so I just let it run on choke for awhile get more of the old gas out of it eventually it smoothed out. Put it on run and bingo. Awesome 👌🏼
Glad you had success! I have had lots of feedback/comments suggesting I use high octane/ethanol free fuel to avoid gumming the carburetor in the first place. I’m definitely going to follow that advice! I did buy an extra carburetor from Troy-bilt ($80) that I’m going to keep on hand-that seems to be the thing that would need to be “fixed” next (soooooo not going to take apart a carburetor, but I’d be willing to replace one-many youtube videos on that!).
Always run your blower on High test non ethanol gas. Bought a used Ariens Deluxe 30 snowblower 5 years ago, started using Shell Ultra premium gas ( non ethanol) as soon as I got it & it cleaned up the carb & have had no problems since. I don't empty the fuel out of the tank after sitting all summer & it fires right up on one pull.
Hi , again great video and thanks for your time to make it! Windy you rock
If you can buy 94 octane ethanol free fuel in your state use that in your snowblower and it will run great. I use a product called Sea Foam and I add a capful of it every time I fill up the tank. It will keep your carburetor and fuel system clean and it also acts as a fuel stabilizer. I run that in my snowblower, lawnmower, and rototiller and all the spitting and sputtering and engine surging is gone and they will all start even when they have not been run in months at a time.
I have had several such suggestions and am DEFINITELY going to do that!! Thanks!
Good job!
Great presentation. Keep them coming.
I got mine together today. I don't have the space to put it away fully assembled. I remove the upper handle /control panel and snorkel rotation rod. It's the second season for it so I haven't change the OEM oil yet. I make a gallon of gas at a time. I add STA-BIL 360 to the fuel and run it out of fuel at the end of the season. Its much better at straight path clearing, not easy to turn around or back up. I use my 20 inch Toro for side walks out to the street and walk ways to the steps..
Good job little lady❤
I am proud of you for trying and actually fixing it.
You can go one step further when you have time by using some really small drill bits to clean out the carb buildup in those screws that hold the carburetor together and that clears up the surging.
oooooh! Thanks for the suggestion!
Nothing better then a woman standing up and doing the job. That saved you a couple hundred. Nice job not too many ladies doing it on their own.
You're right, it's a disaster waiting to turn onto a catastrophe!
You also need a carb cleaning, try some Seafoam mixed the gas to clean it first.
Congratulations on your successful 'repair'. Very entertaining. Now all your neighbors will be running to you with every repair issue.
No, they are running to me to have me snow blow their driveways, too! :-)
I have the same blower with similar symptoms, runs best between choke and run, ill have to look at the carb, but it always starts right up. I definitely recommend non ethanol fuel for any equipment that is prone to sitting for extended periods. The ethanol fuel doesn't last and attracts water, which settles to the bottom of the tank and goes right to the carb on gravity feed, hence no start, bad running. Sometimes you can open the carb drain and watch the water run out. I put my blower away last spring with 1/4 tank and no stabilizer and when I pulled it out in November it fired right up. Most people will tell you to drain the fuel or fill the tank and add stabilizer when putting away for the year, but I have found that unnecessary with ethanol free fuel.
Many people also mentioned the non-ethanol fuel or high octane fuel and I have totally bought some. I would very much love to NOT have to putz with it every year!!! Thanks for mentioning I don’t have to empty the tank-I got mixed feedback on that and I must say that I would rather NOT do that.
Thanks for keeping it simple. Going outside to do this right now!
hopefully it’s warmer where you are. My hands were freezing!
Good luck! Let me know how it goes!
@@wendygrossereducational3737 Other than spilling my socket set with 20 years of collected "parts" in the snow, it went beautifully. Your instruction is clear and the camera work is good. So frustrating when you can't see what's being done. And, btw, I'm in Erie, PA where it is rarely warmer than anywhere else. 😉 Thanks again.
@lbialk yes, I realized I misspoke and put in the pop-up words. My bad. I definitely have a 4 cycle engine and used 4 cycle engine oil. Also, the bag is clearly labeled 4 cycle so hopefully that will be another clue.
Glad you got it fixed. Always satisfying, that’s for sure. Donyboy73 up in Canada is my go to guy on TH-cam for snowblower repair videos. I switched over to “Truefuel” instead of gas. It’s more expensive, but I don’t have as many carb issues. I was never a fan of fuel stabilizers.
You are an inspiration to those who are intimidated by working on their outdoor power equipment. When it comes to plugged up carburetors, it is best to completely disassemble the carburetor and clean everything. Don't forget to take out the emulsion tube and clean all the tiny holes. There are many videos on doing a complete disassembly and Indepth cleaning. Ethanol in the fuel is what cause all the problems, especially during storage. If possible, once the carburetor has been completely cleaned, use non ethanol fuel. If that is not an option, then use fuel stabilizer in all your outdoor power equipment fuel, and when the season is over, drain all the fuel out of the carburetor and fuel tank. Witner is right at the door, it's time to our snow machines ready. Oh yes, I see you used 4 cycle snow blower oil. Most don't realize air cooled 4 cycle engines use special additives to deal with moisture and the higher temperatures air cooled engines run at. And for those who are sticklers towards using full synthetic only, it is available in 4 cycle 0w30, 5w30 and in summer 10w30, straight 30 weight and so on.
Thanks for your insights. Someone else mentioned non-ethanol fuel and I am definitely going to use that once I use up my current fuel. I don’t feel like I want to tackle taking apart a carburetor at this point :-) so I did buy a new one that I ended up not using-one scary new thing at a time for me :-). I really wanted to take this to someone, but I couldn’t find anyone nearby who did this stuff and I couldn’t get it there anyway. I am happy I was able to get it working by myself! I wish local places offered classes on small engine work. :-(
Sorry, forgot to add the link. Here it is: seafoamworks.com/uploads/public/resource-library/2022/07/HOW2_GummedUp-Carb.pdf
@@wendygrossereducational3737 One note if you replace your carburetor with a new one. Before installing the aftermarket carburetor, take off the float bowl and tap it lightly on a table or some hard surface. Look for tiny particles that may fall out. Also blow on the other part of the carburetor to remove any particles that may be left behind from the machining process. You would think that would be done by the manufacture before boxing the carburetor.
@@russellmaddock3492 I did spring for the Troy-Bilt carburetor-do i still do that?
@@wendygrossereducational3737 Wendy, I would still take the float bowl off and tap it lightly on a table. From all the videos I have watched, even a genuine Troy Bilt carburetor could have small particles that could cause problems. Taking the float bowl off is very simple. Just make sure you take note where the drain plug is facing. That way when the carburetor is back on the machine the drain plug is in the right location for easy access. Sense your snow blower starts, trying the Sea Foam may take care of your carburetor issues. Fresh fuel is important, because of the ethanol in today's fuel, fuel absorbs moisture and loses its ability to burn properly. What a lot of people do, is pore the old fuel into their vehicle and then fill the fuel container with new fuel, ethanol free if you can find it. Adding Sea Foam to small engine fuel containers when filling them is also a good idea. I have been doing that for years with good results. Hope this helps. Have a blessed and enjoyable Thanksgiving.
good vid, subbed to your channel.
Double bravo to ya mame! You've inspired me to take on my own. Thanks for sharing
Go for it!
If you burn your face off with the gasoline tank open for an hour in an unventilated garage while spark plug testing on a damp early evening, just before the winter holidays, be sure to come back on the internet for advice.
Double bravo - go for it!
Use engineered fuel, (TruFuel). No ethanol in it, has a 3 plus year shelf life.
A little pricey, but worth it. You will not have a fuel related carb problem.
Many have said the same thing and I bought a can of it. I have to wait until I use up the fuel in the tank before I pour it in (I assume) but I totally plan to do this. Sure wish I knew about that stuff before!
I'm having the exact same issue with my 2620. I will try your advice and let you know if it works for me. THANK YOU for sharing!
Good luck! I have had a lot of very knowledgeable people tell me I need to use high quality fuel (no additives best) and fuel stabilizers to keep this from happening again. I certainly took that advice! So far the thing started up again this year (not that I’ve needed it).
Be sure to use the 4 cycle engine oil, of course. I misspoke in the video (but fixed with text) and quite a few people commented.
Great Video
I was wondering if you can point out to what spark plug did you purchase to replace the OEM part?
Thanks
I went to an auto store and gave them my Troy-bilt part number 951-10292. They looked it up on the computer. You can always go to the Troy-bilt website and order it there.
@@wendygrossereducational3737
Thanks !
Changing the oil is a good idea once a year. But it had nothing to do with an engine running poorly.
guessing you are right, but that oil was gross. I was seriously ready to replace the carburetor and probably need to still do that at some point, but at least the thing was running by the snow that fell the next day.
Good information, did you say you used 2 cycle oil ?
I did say that, but I misspoke. Definitely 4 cycle oil, as shown on the bag of oil.
I'm no expert but this works for me; I run my equipment with 87 octane mixed with Stabil fuel stabilizer during the season. At the end of the season, I drain all remaining gas and pour ethanol-free gas to run 10 to 15 minutes. Drain any remaining gas and done with the fuel part. This has not failed me. Ethanol-free fuel is about $8 a quart but I rather pay that than try to figure out what the problem is when the snow starts coming...
No joke! The day after I made this video, it snowed. So happy to have the snowblower working. Others have suggested the ethanol free stuff as well or at least a high octane fuel-I was going to look for the ethanol free stuff, but may have to go with 93 octane. Also, something called Sea Foam, which I know the local hardware store carries.
That's what I run in all my equipment 91 octane. When the season is over, I run 91 with Sea Form to get it in the system then I drain the gas out then run it dry. Never had any problems.
We have a small engine chat Saturday afternoon with some of the heavy hitters joining us like Bruce's Shop and Mick's Mowers. You should check it out. Even The Lawn Mower Lady chimes in from time to time. Here's the link: th-cam.com/video/gDpzolt-820/w-d-xo.html
thanks!
Ethanol is a small engine killer.
But if you absolutely HAVE to use it, treat it with Seafoam and/or Stabil 360.
The treated ethanol gas will last 2-3 months, but after that, get rid of it. (Dump it into your car or truck).
After the winter season, evacuate ALL treated gas from the snowblowers gas tank. (A hand-operated siphon pump works great for this. The kind with the rubber squeeze-ball.)
Then, run the blower on the gas left in the fuel line and carb bowl until it stalls.
Then, add an engineered fuel (such as True-Fuel) to the tank and let the blower run for a few minutes.
Your task is now complete, and you can rest easy that your blower will start right up next winter. 😁
Yep. Many people also suggested the high octane or ethanol free fueling and the sea foam. Needless to say, I have now purchased both!
I’ve printed this out and plan to follow. Thank you!!!
@@wendygrossereducational3737 Anything to help a fellow Troy-Bilt owner!
Your video was very, very informative Wendy.
Great job!! 👍🏻
Hey Wendy I hate to break this to you but I’ve been doing this for 60 years that was good change the spark plug if you forgot one thing I forgot the gap it you put the wrong oil in it that doesn’t take two cycle oil you need to put 5W-30 engine oil in
Thank you for your feedback! I did put in the correct oil-I just said it wrong. That is why I added text at that spot stating I misspoke. I realized my boo-boo in editing and couldn’t figure out how to voice over at that point. The little oil bag does have the correct specs as well, so hopefully people will notice that?
As for the gap, I did compare the specs on the new spark plug with the Troybuilt manual and they were identical (the auto store guy swore they were, but I wanted to be sure).
@@wendygrossereducational3737. Hey Wendy I’m glad you caught that mistake I had me a little nervous there for a bit for two cycle oil in the war cycle the job
WHY WOULD I WANT TO FIX YOUR TROY-BILT 2410 SNOWBLOWER, WHEN YOU JUST SAID YOU FIXED IT YOURSELF ⁉
hahahaha! That is really funny :-)_
Throwing parts at something is a rookie move and not what is wrong. You have to watch auto supply stores as they have no idea what they are doing other than reading a computer. I changed the plug for someone last winter that they replaced, it was the WRONG PLUG . The carburetor was green to the point it was destroyed. I keep telling owners to get recreational fuel for their equipment because ethanol fuel destroys small engines by attracting moisture. Being a snow blow sits more than it's run, leaving old fuel in the machine destroys the fuel system. All that smoke told me the carburetor was the issue. 98% of what I do is fuel related concerning small engine repair.
Yep. I got a lot of feedback regarding the fuel and definitely plan to make that change. I sure wish there was some sort of class/manual on small engine upkeep. It is really frustrating to not know how to take care of my yard and garden machines. I’m sure in the “olden” days people would just learn from their parents, but. nowadays that is not the case (it certainly wasn’t in my case). Not only that, it’s near impossible to find anyone near by who even services these things. Hence the reason I had to resort to TH-cam videos :-(
My snowblower was dead for 5 years. I waited until this year to finally watch TH-cam videos on how to fix it. I started just like you did. Spark plug first, then oil change. Unfortunately, I did have to replace my carburetor. Which was a lot cheaper than I thought it would be. All in all, I spent no more than $50!
Definitely a good feeling being able to fix things like this yourself.
@@makeitgo I’m sure I’ll need to replace the carburetor (I do have the part), but it’s too cold to try that now. I’m going to try the high octane (low ethanol) or ethanol free gas and the sea foam everyone is suggesting and hope that does the job for now. The spare carb was $80-not bad in the scheme of things.
Wendy, I found a video that explains the reason for dropping the float bowl and checking for tiny metal shavings. Hope this helps. th-cam.com/video/PA6GfUcGMKI/w-d-xo.html
It ain't always that simple, a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing in the wrong hands as we are not all naturals at this sort of thing. There's gasoline which doesn't just burn it's far more explosive than other fuels, and its 'mischievous', people don't realise because their only experience of it is a nozzle in gas tank. For example, as in heavy, damp, seasonal air conditions in the open, plus your equipment has electricity and a spark plug, these things require an understanding and awareness before a complete novice does anything handy and acquires too much confidence for their skillset! Both can be a dangerous combination.
True. It is important to know one’s limits. While I am not a small engine mechanic, I am a fairly handy person and this work was totally within my comfort zone. I do realize it isn’t always this simple, but thankfully in my case-and in perhaps other’s cases-it was. My blower was up and running for the snow that fell the very next day.
THATS THE WRONG OIL THAT IS FOR 2 CYCLE ENGINES YOUR BLOWER HAS A 4 CYCLE ENGINE 2 CYCLE OIL WILL DESTROY YOUR ENGINE ITS MADE TO BE MIXED WITH GASOLINE
I mistakenly called it 2 cycle oil (hence the words that flashed up to correct). If you stop the video and read the bag it says Premium 4 cycle engine oil. No worries! It’s all good :-)
I used some seafoam spray and it did nothing! Don't buy a Craftsman they rust real fast and the engine is a bit temperamental, buy German, Dutch, or Japanese and if Korea makes a cheaper one buy that! Don't buy China brands! 👎 Sadly 'our' own companies don't seem to be very flexible and fast on their feet, never learn. They should learn to copy those who do it better, like part of Asia does, then maybe we'd have small engines that can live out in all weather and start up every time with no maintenance, like my old Honda mower did for decades. I don't know more than one brand of N.American snowblower that isn't "fussy", tempramentle, and at some point while still young - a royal pain in the goji berries! A.my neighbors say oil leaking spark ug on a 1 year old s. blower, won't start etc.
Its a junk chinese Carb my neighbor Got a Troy bilt at the end of 2021 started once. would not start this year I cleaned the carb and its find These companies are putting out junk and charging way to much with chinese parts the whole motor might be chinese
Ethanol in the fuel is the problem. No matter if it is a factory carb or an aftermarket carb ethanol will cause the same problem. And every snow blower manufacture uses engines designed by them (to their specs) but built mostly overseas. Even the biggest brands such as Ariens and Toro use engines bult overseas. And, when replacing a carburetor with a new one, always take the float bowl off and check for small particles. Use compressed air to lightly blow out the bowl and the rest of the carburetor. Small particles can cause blockage and make a new carburetor seem like junk.
Great Job
Hey there, Wendy.
Safety first! Take of that ridiculously old-hat pretentious looking head gear, it's so played and the aboriginals get enough charity now from tourists but more importantly if your day bits get caught in an auger or something your hair could then follow and it's just really against all wise safety practices when working on machinery! It'll put you in hospital sooner or later if you get into doing more of this stuff. Even if it ain't pulled off your head, you might instinctively reach to save it and chew your hand up with the blower or worse the mower. It sets a bad example too for anyone else flowing your channel.
Point 2:
Whenever using tools and heavy materials don't when dangling jewellery, loose wrist straps etc.and don't wear your best wrist watch and preferably not your best glasses. At some point they will get damaged! Working on cold weather, doesn't matter, you must take the scarf off if you wear one while working one machinery. Finally, we all know about goggles and frostbitten fingers, nose, etc, it can happen quicker than one thinks. Think twice, act once - safely. Good luck fellow D.I.Y.ers. Happy holiday Wendy.
Hey! I love that hat! It’s full on wool with fleece lining and warm enough (when layered with my light weight face mask) to keep me warm in these lovely Minnesota winters. I’m not worried about it getting caught in anything spinning, because I’m not foolish enough to stick my hand in anything spinning-that is what off switches are for :-)