There is a new model without a fan, that uses quartz rods and a reflector. It is is floor standing and tip-proof. Its a good alternative. Might take 2 minutes more time to do the directed heating
Just another comment to add. I live in Ottawa Canada with a good 5 months of winter. I've happily owned and operated a (only one) snowblower for 40+ years. While Garage Gear guy gives good solid advice, I don't do any of that stuff, except keeping the skid plates on a piece of wood off the concrete (in my garage). I summer-ize by running the gas tank dry at the end of every winter and have my snowblower professionally serviced once every 5 years for a couple hundred bucks. They do oil, lube everything, carb, change snow throwing belt. In my opinion that's all you need! Works for me.
Followed the manufacturer's video and used a gas stabilizer in the tank and ran the carb dry. Mold grew in the bottom of the gas tank. When I started it up the next winter the mold destroyed my carburetor. I'm back to running the whole machine completely dry...both gas tank and carb.
@@redveiner sounds like you might have had some water in the fuel and it sat in the bottom of the tank for enough time to grow mold...? OR the fuel stabilizer was garbage and had contaminants.
I just bought an Ariens about two years ago, compared to my last machine (Snapper, 2001) which died in 2021, it's like going from a Chevy to a Cadillac, love the way it performs, best money ever spent. I do regular Oil changes, plug changes and drain fuel at the end of the use season. It is stowed in a dry ,clean storage shed during the summer. I don't run a heater in the garage to get rid of Chute and Auger snow accumulation, I let the engine cool down for few minutes running, then, in the driveway I use a pump sprayer with hot tap water to wash down the areas, after a short dry time it is put in the garage, Have no problems doing this.
I was recommended an Ariens but went with a snowblower that was on sale at Menards. I take good care of it so it runs great. I love the electric start but don't really need it.
I clean mine completely. Even inside the auger. I store it outside (no shed or garage) and dont want it to be ice and possibly break something. While i clean it (with a car brush) its usually fully cooled down. I put a snowblower cover on it and then a tarp on it for even more water protection. I also spray with p100 spray since it uses wire to pull stuff around like the shoot. It would freeze and jam when really cold but since spray everything with the p100(like wd40 but rated for very cold temps. -40c) its been great. No more wire freezing. Mine also has electric start but its in a square thingy and my extension cord tip wouldn't fit in it so i use only the pull start. Starts on the first pull every time. Even in a week of -20c -30c it'll start on the first pull without having to do anything special. (My snowblower is a yardworks)
I have a snowblower almost the same model as yours, while I use a spray lube at the rotating points on the auger and shoot I no longer use silicone on the shoot or in the auger housing. Silicone and WD40 or lubes of this nature get thick and hold snow and moisture at when cold temperatures. Take a cloth with mineral sprites and wipe all the surfaces clean, this includes the auger. Get a bottle of spray hybrid ceramic car coating, there are a number available. They dry hard - resist moisture and snow buildup up. Also recommend spraying your snow shovel, works there also.
I use regular old rain-x, seems to work effectively and have good endurance. I just trippple coat everything in the fall and it seems to last all winter.
Another tip…when you snowblow, go out to the street with the machine and open up the end of your driveway first. Blow all of the snow and salt or sand mixture at the road before doing the remainder of your driveway. This helps to clean all of the “contaminants” from the auger housing and impeller as you are blowing out the driveway, keeping your machine cleaner.
Huh? How am I going to do that when my garage is 300 feet from the road? To run that big heavy Ariens any distance the tires will pack down the snow that the tires travel over. Ever try to blow packed down snow that a 200 lbs machine just ran over? I first need a path just to get to the road, why make my trip back up the driveway over snow I just packed down that can't be removed with the snowblower? Now I'd need to hand shovel two tracks of 2-4 inch high peaks of packed snow the full length of my 300' driveway. I start blowing right out the garage door.
@@pauldentler7127 just make a bee line for the road, clearing your initial pass as you go, not rocket science. Now work your way back in that salt free powder….
With my snowblower, after every use, I run the carburetor dry so that at the end of the season I know that I have already Summer-ized my snowblower. I store my snowblower in a heated garage and I put blocks of wood under the unit. I live in Nova Scotia Canada, and winter are a little different, Nova Scotia snowstorms have lots of moisture so we either get snow, wet snow, or snowy ice, which can be a challenge for the auger belt. Get tips Garage Gear!
I learned a lesson the hard way a couple of years ago. I bought a used snow blower that was just a hand pull start. While trying to start it cold I torn a tendon in my shoulder. After alittle thinking I realize my error, trying to start it when the oil was cold. Ever since that day I have placed a hair dryer next to the crank case for 15 mins to harm up oil before starting. I have recently bought an electric start and will be doing the same with it.
I have a Cub Cadet Trac machine I bought new in 1976 . Before putting away between snow storms I brush off outside of blower around chute. I also clear out snow inside auger housing. Having an attached garage I place blower inside for it to dry off.👍 🎉You have good tips lifting blower off concrete to alleviate rust concerns. 👍 I also spray down chute and auger with (PAM )to keep snow from sticking👍
Have the Ariens 28 SHO Deluxe. I use a car windshield scraper brush to get most of the snow out of the auger and impeller after shutdown. I did this after throwing ice out of the chute after startup when the snow melted and froze. Didn't break a belt but the ice slammed into the side of the garage. If the augers seem dangerous after shutdown you can always remove the start key- can't run without the key. As far as fuel goes there are several gas stations in town that sell ethanol free premium fuel. I use a 5 gallon gas can for the lawn mower and snowblower and add stabil before fill up at the gas station. Ariens makes a very good snowblower.
My complements on a useful video. I have a 28" Ariens. One thing I have been doing is turning the ignition off to shut down the machine for refilling the gas tank or when finished. Per your suggestion, will throttle down for a cool off. Mid season, when the temps get above freezing, will spray the auger, housing, and chute with a Lanolin based product-Fluid Film. Not unusual to get snow in April in Lawrence Park, (Erie) PA. Also, appreciate reading the comments from others. Take care.
Great tips. Can't bank on my tenant to follow these steps at our rental duplex, ( I charge them less than half the going rental rate the entire year for the occasional mowing or snow removal when I'm not there) but I'll be sure to use a couple of these tips on my snowthrower attached to my JD which isn't stored indoors but under a 12' tarp. Gets mighty cold in my area with just as much wet snow that acts like wildlife seeking a nice place to keep out of the wind. Makes a lot of sense to melt the ice & snow crammed into the auger area. I depend on my JD snowthrower since I clear 7 driveways and the bridge walkway to church. I don't take money, it's more a neighborly thing I do. If my thrower is down, a lot of people sure take notice. Thanks
I replaced a single stage Cub Cadet (my Barbie snow blower) with a 26” Craftsman (named it Gus) after the snow dump in WNY in November and before the most recent storm rolling in right how. I haven’t used it yet, but I learned what to do before, during, and after use from watching several of your videos. They all had great content with simple tips and great instructions. I’m sure I saved myself some time and repair costs by educating myself with your help, which made me subscribe to be part of the tribe after feeling the vibe.
I own a 2010 areins 28 pro, never kept it in a heated garage, never used a space heater. End of every season I chang the oil and spray the whole machine down with atf fluid for linkage lube and rust prevention, also grease the shaft zerks. What a machine they build, I've used it to clear my old jobs parking lot before, always hit the neighbors houses as well. Heated garage in my dreams but I do have the ariens cover.
Great advice. I usually brush off my blower at well but never thought about the heater (which I have) and placing on a mat and elevating it. My issue is I lost the wing nut and bolt to the top portion of the chute that raises & lowers. I’ve replaced with bolts but keep losing due to vibration. What do I use to prevent that and still be able to operate the directional chute without tightening the bolt. Thanks in advance
Hey John have you tried a lock nut? You can place it to a certain tightness and then you should still be able to adjust it without an issue. Let me know if you tried one.
Here in Alaska we get our fair share of snow. I always throttle down and let the snowblower idle for a couple of minutes before shutting it off, brush the big spots of snow off, then park it outside behind my garage and place a deep-sided plastic sled upside down on top of the snowblower to keep most of the weather off. Stays outside year round. It’s pry 10-12 years old, no visible rust, and fires right up when needed. Only takes a couple of minutes to put it away.
Tips from a Toro 928 owner: -Premium gas ONLY. - warm the engine for a few minutes first while you shovel some spots where the snowblower doesn’t get used (steps, deck, porch, etc.), then ramp engine up to 50% for a minute before going to full power and starting to blow snow. - When the snow is not very deep and when you can try only running the engine at 60% or 80% or 90% if that is enough power to get the job done so there is less wear and tear on the engine. - lower the RPM when engaging the auger and keep the auger engaged as long as possible to reduce wear to the belt as most wear comes from engaging the auger at full throttle. - when finishing up lower the RPM to 60% or 40% or whatever you can that still works for you to “step down” the engine temp for a couple minutes, then when finished let the machine idle with the fuel line shut off till it dies. That will further cool the engine and run the carb dry so there is no fuel sitting in there that can gum up the carb long term. 👍🏻 ❤ ❄️ ⛄️
Thanks for the well made video. I have a 31 year old Honda 2 stage 24 inch since new. Live in NJ It lives in a heated garage and sits on a rubber mat. Ive changed the drive belt and auger belt once. Ive replace the tires due to age and cracking once. I learned the hard way to never leave gasoline in the carburetor so when Im finished I put it to idle to cool and then turn the fuel supply off. When the carburetor is out of fuel the engine stalls. The first year I had it gasoline in the carburetor went bad and I had to buy a new carburetor and on Honda thats not cheap. Before putting it in the garage after use, I get a bucket of hot water and throw it in the shute and auger. I do this over the nearest storm drain. All the snow gone and back in the garage it goes. Personally I steer clear of WD 40 on my snowblower. WD 40 contains a Vaseline material that in the long term attracts and holds dust and dirt. Short term its okay but Id never store anything covered in WD 40. Lastly if garage keep the snow blower will last a long time, if you change the oil yearly, make sure it has fresh fuel, clean / change the air filter an check / change the $2.00 spark plug. I bought my Honda in 1991 and the salesman told me , its the last snowblower youll ever buy if you take care of it. You know I think he may be right.
Good tips. I recently bought a snow blower and when I did, the company selling it to me gave me most of the tips (not the heater for the blades). However in a warm garage, before I put it in the shed, I let it dry out and then put silicon on it as that was also recommended to me by the company. I was wondering if there is anything else I needed to do so I watched. Thank you for your videos, they either confirm I do the right thing or if there is something else I can do.
Thanks Sam! A warm garage works well too! Mine usually stays around 30-45 degrees. The heater really speeds things up! You’re on the right track my friend! Take care of that snowblower and it will take care of you for a long time! Thanks for being a cool fan!
I agree with the throttle down and brushing of as much snow as you can. But the heater and the rest??? I live in Western NY and I have a 20 year old 11hp John Deer and an unattached garage that's at outside air temp and it runs just as good as it did 20 years ago. I also turn the fuel shutoff off and run the carb empty at a low rpm after every operation. I also empty the tank at the end of every season before storage. Ironically I got a 3 year old Cub Cadet from my son this summer and it failed to start and is now in for service. To remove the 2ft off snow this week I had to rely on the 20yr old John Deer :)
@@GarageGear Nice to know that your from the area! I forgot to mention that I use Mobil 1 for oil. It flows easy when cold, makes starting a lot easer.
Still using my 1987 Snapper Snow Blower. I have done all these step from day one. My owners manual tells you to put the engine speed down to an idle when you are done and all the engine to cool down. While it is cooling down I clear the snow off, keeping it running also helps to melt excess snow. I have also used car wax on as much of the unit as safely possible avoiding getting too close the the blades which can require a trip to the ER (ask me how I know) .
We take the “stick it back into the garage and let it melt out on its own” approach, as well as the “leave it in the shed having done no maintenance all summer” one with our 25 year old Toro two stroke single stage. I’m not saying it’s the right way to do it or even that it’s a good idea, but the thing still starts on the second pull, and I changed the paddles and scraper for the first time last winter. They don’t make them like they used to. It generally comes out in October and goes back in May in this bit of Canada.
I don't have a heated garage, and keep my snowblower in an unheated shed that has no electricity. I've never had an issue. I thoroughly clean it after every use, and actually use an old plastic gas can under the pan and have the back wheels off the ground to allow water to drain forward. As for the impeller freezing, I've had it happen a couple times in the past when I didn't prop up the blower, and have an old wooden axe handle that I use to check the impeller and give it a couple taps with the wooden handle to free it if ice does form. This step is on my startup routine, same as checking the oil and filling the fuel tank. The most important thing I do? Maintenance. During the summer I thoroughly clean the blower, oil, grease and wax it. A couple of years ago I touched up the paint in a couple of places, then waxed it again. Any mechanical parts that need repair or replacing get done right away. One friction disk, a dip stick (top popped off), and a few shear bolts. Everything else is original. If I'm not mistaken, my blower is 34 years old, and will likely last another 34 years.
Clean your auger and impeller with a brush. Once its been clean, start your snowblower again and run the auger a few seconds. It will clear the remaining snow that fell at the bottom and it prevents ice from forming. I had a ariens and now i have a honda. I have never had a single issue doing this method.
I’ve got a 22 year old Ariens 1028. It handles a 110 ft, double width driveway and a 150 ft winding path quite handily, here in the always snowy Ottawa Valley. Common sense tips, such as the ones in this video, and yearly maintenance, have kept the beast in good shape.
Wow, what irony. I just picked up a 927LE Ariens in Carleton Place yesterday and I’m having a blast with it in Hudson QC2 long driveways are handled easily with the great 2008 machine.
Thank you so much!!! Recently single female who "splurged" on a snow blower. I was worried about the investment since, you know, now a days, things don't last long like they used to!!! Love your video! Gave peace of mind that it will outlast me! Now, need to find "winterizing snow blower" and "how to use a Riding Mower". Another splurge, and it sits- 3 months. Still pushing a mower on 1/2 acre at 63 yrs old. I"m a "visual learner" (show me), so the instruction book is confusing. Sigh...
Hey Tjsinpa, glad you found this video helpful! I am proud of you for mowing your 1/2 acre lawn with a push mower! That is an accomplishment no doubt about it! Here is a link to storing your snowblower in the summer if that is what you are referring to. HOW TO SUMMERIZE A SNOWBLOWER FOR BEGINNERS th-cam.com/video/9Gtl1lNC8tI/w-d-xo.html I do not do much with riding mowers but can tell you that the procedures aren’t far off from other equipment. Thanks for watching! 👍
This winter it was very colder than normal, about 10 degrees at night. When snow hit I pulled out my snow blower that had been stored outside. I got it started but the auger was jammed. I put the snow blower in the garage and warmed it up. Still jammed. I tapped on the transfer box with a hammer a bit. That loosened it up and all was good. My guess is the oil/grease in the transfer box was too thick and when the motor tried to turn the spindle it jammed. Warming it up and tapping on the housing loosened it up. So moving forward I'll move my snow blower to the garage sooner before it gets too cold.
I recommend Maxima SC1. You don’t need to wipe it off. MX riders use it with great success to keep mud from sticking to the bike and under the fenders. Also, more of a start of season prep, but be sure to lube the auger shaft and only use genuine Ariens shear pins only tightened down to just snug as in directions. Also always do a last minute grounds check for branches and old newspapers on the ground before the snow hits.
Good suggestions. Every spring, before putting it away for the warm weather, I change the oil, run the gas tank dry and empty a can of WD40 (or similar spray) on the whole body. Original paint still on the blower after 32 years. I kid you not. Only 2 spark plugs in 32 years. ...and starts with fresh gas 1st or 2nd pull.
Started investing in TruFuel for my lawn equipment and have been pleasantly surprised that I don’t have to run them dry at the end of the season and they always start up on the first or second pull the following season.
Hi JB. Great video's. Just tried to use my neighbors Ariens 11528LE snow blower to clear her driveway. I found the right side of the auger spinning freely. When I checked the shear bolt, the head of the bolt and the nut came right off. Tried to locate the remainder of the shear bolt to tap it out of the hole but I can't seem to find the right position. Do I need to remove the shaft and auger to locate the bolt and tap it out? Thanks, Dave
Just to be clear Dave… is part of it stuck inside and you can’t get it out? If you line up the holes and insert a new shear pin you should knock the other free. Let me know .
No longer own my snowblower since I moved to Texas but I was the guy who always did all of the neighbor's homes when I did own my "Mean Machine". Great tips but I would add 1 more item, when I was done using my machine for the season I would take it out and run it dry. While I was doing that I would add some STA-BIL to the little gas that was left so that no matter what was left in the tank it wouldn't gum up the carb. Also I pitched my machine a few degrees by putting a brick under one wheel so that the gas would all drain into the carb while I was running it dry. Never had a problem starting my snow blower in the 10 years I owned it.
@@GarageGear It's funny for what passes for snow here. They're just not prepared for it so when they get an inch or two schools close and people are in a panic.
For those that are concerned about using silicone or WD-40 and throwing snow that maybe contaminated, you can use a PAM spray which works just as well and biodegradable
Newly single mom of 3 kids here in Colorado, and was given a used snow thrower 2 days ago. I'm a nurse so this mechanical stuff is not my wheelhouse. HOWEVER, I know I can do this maintenance because of your GREAT video! Yesterday I bought a rubber mat and silicone spray. I am ready for the foot of snow forecast for tomorrow. Thank you!
Don't worry about your "Mechanical" skills, I'm an Accountant, I can cut myself with a screwdriver...🤣 Don't worry, those machine, no matther the brand, are nearly Bomb Proof... You'll see, you'll have soooo much fun throwing snow 10 feet in the air... :)
Don't use silicone spray. Silicone spray's purpose is to lubricate while ensuring you don't break down any rubber or plastic. There aren't any rubber or plastic components inside a blower. A petroleum based product will help shed moisture and will perform much better. I personally use Krown corrosion protection but WD40 as described in the video is a great product too.
A smart thing to do, especially for those blowers that may see limited use each year, is to turn off the fuel valve and run the carb out of gas after each use.
I was going to post this, more than any of the other tips, do this. You never know when the last use will be its last, so, let the carb run dry. Also, use ethanol free gas.
I just a had a failure. It was the first of it's kind. My snow blower is stored outside with a heavy cover. In this last storm the cover was partly blown off. After starting, when I tried to move, nothing happened. The auger engaged fine. On closer examination, the snow was blown into the drive section of the unit and formed a sheet of ice on the drive plate! No friction, no go! A few minutes with my heat gun fixed the issue. When I covered it this time, I put 2 extra spring clamps in addition to the two bungee cords that I use to hold the cover on.
After use I blow clean salt-free snow and then I always cool down the engine at idle, brush off the snow from the deck, housing and chute. Then I put the throttle up to 3/4 and engage the impellor to clear the snow and water from the impellor housing. Then I idle the engine and back the blower into my unheated garage. It is stored on a rubber mat. The instructions from Ariens say before starting to engage the blower clutch and pull the pull start cord to make sure the impellor is not frozen in place. Only If OK, then choke, throttle and prime before starting the engine. Once in twenty years I have had a frozen impellor. It was a pain to get free as the temp was below zero at the time.
I always turn off the gas line (instead of switching it off immeditately), slowly lets the engine use up all the gas from tank to cylinder. Throughout the 30 minutes I am generally using my snow blower, I gradually turn down the choke settings as the engine heats up through use. Good tips!
Another good tip here! I actually start doing that when I get closer to the end of the season. Just because I never really know when my last snowblow of the season will be. Thanks for watching Andrew!
Thank you for this video. Since hubby died I've had to learn how to snow blow. I'm getting good at operating it. Your advice on how to care for it between uses has been valuable to me.
Came across your videos while looking for information on snowblower summer storage; (specifically, whether it's OK to let the machine rest on its tires all summer.) Quite informative and useful. Thanks! After doing my driveway, path to the backyard garage and fence line composter, and the driveways of two of my neighbours, I have neither the energy nor the patience to be quite so diligent about post-use rituals, beyond cleaning out the snow from the scoop, augers & impeller. Post use, I bounce the machine up and down & stand it upright to clear loose snow. Nor do I have a heated garage in which to carry out such precision detailing. What I do do though, is prior to next use, I ensure that the impeller moves freely before starting the machine (Ariens Classic 24+.) One piece of advice that I recommend is NOT using the bracket for the cleaning tool except for summer storage. I have twice replaced the bracket after breaking it because I reefed on it too hard, discovering too late that the tool had frozen into the bracket, breaking the bracket in the process. Now it hangs from a hook on the back porch railing.
Garage Gear , looking to purchase a new snowblower , I live in the snow belt of Western NY that gets Lake effect snowstorms & heavy deep snow , 100 ft concrete driveway and wanted to know what snowblowers are best rated & which brands to stay away from . Two stage or Three stage? What brand do you have & your professional opinion , not worried about spending some extra money for a snowblower that will perform for me and have zero problems with . Thank you
Hey heavy Chevy! I would look at an ariens. Can’t go wrong with them. Deluxe models and up are all great based on what you want/need. I have an Ariens professional 32 and she’s a tank! Go bills! 👍
To prevent any melting snow from collecting, I pour warm water on the blower housing (keeping away from the engine). This removes 100% of all snow, leaving only “drips” to evaporate. Then, I place blocks under the wheels, not the blower housing … I think this works better as water wants to collect around the 2nd stage impeller. The blocks under the wheels makes any water here drain out the front of the unit.
Great tips. Definitely agree with the cool down for the engine. I had always been told to run fan-cooled air-cooled engines, like those found on power equipment like mowers and blowers, on high rpm before shutting down. The concept is to keep the fan spinning fast and moving more air than it would at idle. That may be more important on a mower in warm temps rather than a snow blower in cold temps. Regardless, keeping that fan spinning to cool an engine after it has finished working hard is a great tip. Thanks.
Manufacturers recommend running an engine at full throttle because they run cooler. The flywheels have fins on them that move air. Idle RPM move less air, and restrict cooling. You will see sheet metal wrapped around the cooling fins to assist the air movement around the head. Bottom line, you want a cooler engine, run at full throttle as per manufacturers guidelines.
That's an urban myth. You'll never find any manufacturer saying that in writing, because it's simply not true. We've all met the guy who runs his chainsaw full tilt all the time; his chainsaw doesn't last long. With experience you learn just how much throttle to give it, and that's the sign of a veteran. Anyways, if you're concerned about limiting engine temperature don't work it so hard.
I have done everything you’ve done once I saw the rust marks in my garage floor except the silicone spray at the end. Thanks for the advice. Since I lost my husband and am a widow I have to learn all the shortcuts on making my equipment last as long as possible. Great video 👍
Hey Karen, first of all let me say that I am sorry for your loss. Second, I give you a lot of credit tackling this head on. I have plenty of content here to help you out. If you ever have a question or problem come up just let me know. Thanks for being a cool fan of the channel!
Hi Karen, sorry to hear about your husband. You are an inspiration. Quick tip re 300 lb. plus snow blower use. Go slow, let the machine do the work, learn efficient snow clearing patterns (path), avoid pulling/pushing/forcing machines direction. Use ear and eye protection, and dress appropriately, stay hydrated, and be sure to take breaks when needed. Slow, steady, safe. 🙏❤😉👍
Frozen impeller just happened to me. Smoked the belt. Now I gotta wait til temps rise above 10 so I can change the belt. I do not have access to heated quarters. It sits in the barn all the time. Dealers suggested putting the rear wheels on a 2x4 and pouring hot water down the chute to get ice out from behind the impeller. This worked, but every time I leave it? How do I prevent another freezup?
Last week Cleared out about 2 1/2 feet of drifts from my driveway and put the Blower back into the garage. Went out later in the evening and the Throttle cable was really taunt/stiff, throttle cable wont fully engage the linkage, I can manually engage the linkage with some Needle Nose Pliers, not sure if Throttle cable went bad or Throttle body Linkage did....
Great video! I always prop mine up on wood blocks too in the heated garage. Taking care of your snowblower sure does make it work like new year after year!
My 35 yr.old 29" Craftsman is till going strong . Thanks for the heater idea , I have been cleaning it thoroughly using car wash brushes & using a small stick in the center to elevate the bottom from the cold cement floor . There is no drain hole to drain the housing ,so I tip the blower forward enough to allow any water left to run out and dry with a paper towel . I have a 2 speed Mr. Furnace heater . How about leaving a work light with a 100W bulb inside the housing all night ?
I run a Troybuilt. 25 + years. I tip the blower FORWARD also to have the water run out the front and not pool in the chute impeller area. Here in eastern PA we have mostly ‘sticky’ snow which makes blowing tough. I will try the WD40 trick you mentioned to help keep the exit chute clear especially.
I've been doing this on my 20 year old Honda 724 since new. Using 'straight' gas instead of the readily available ethanol- infested stuff helps tremendously too. No gummed up carb and fowled plugs every year!
A major US highway exists at the end of my drive. The state graces me with 3-5 lanes of wet, heavy, salt laden snow all winter long. Salt eats snowblowers. So I do all that you mention in this video plus spraying warm, clean water on the snowblower after it has had all the snow removed. I don't use an electric heater, I use a tin can alcohol radiant heater.
Some good tips on how to clean and store your snowblower. I mentioned in another thread that I purchase store brand canola oil by the gallon and decant it into a spray bottle for keeping the surfaces slick. I also check to make sure no shear pins have been sheared off and replace if necessary. I always keep lots of spare shear pins handy and re-stock them every season. I do like that little space heater and just placed an order for it as I've been using a propane blast heater which is effective but gives off nasty fumes. Thanks for sharing. Cheers from northern Vermont.
That's awesome! I have a new snowblower and i intent to keep it that way. It's funny but i do exactly the same thing every time, i don't mind at all. I also like to give it a quick air spray using the air compressor to flush out the water in places where hands can't reach. Super awesome video. Keep up the good work brother 👍👍
Thanks for the tips. I just replaced a seven year old underpowered blower that didn’t quite make five years (the last two years presented a host of problems) as I do six to seven neighbor’s drives. These tips will definitely make a difference. Thanks again!
My Ariens needed a spark plug in its 5th winter. Otherwise it was a brute to start manually. I almost always use the electric starter but sometimes I might want to shut it off in a neighbors driveway.
Good job dude....nice video. As someone who runs a very large facilities department (we have 14 snow blowers) I can tell you that ethanol in the fuel has caused more headaches than anything else. We started buying non-ethanol fuel (TRUFUEL) in bulk several years ago and it has made an enormous difference.
Wouldn’t that be insanely expensive? I only run that after the end of the season through the carb with a touch of Stabill. To use it as gas All the time is a no needer. I only do that with my $700 chainsaw
I've got to second this. I drive out of my way to a gas station with one ethanol free pump and pay extra for it. It's great in the lawn tractor and snowblower.
I don't spray mine but I do knock the excess snow off, and I keep the base on an old yardstick I got from the State Fair to keep my floor from getting stained up. I also have a bit of a pitch to the floor so I am angled enough that when the snow melts, the water travels away from the blower. I think I've had it around 12 years now and other than the year I left cheap gas in it and gummed up the carb, it runs and works great. I run premium in it now and let the tank run down towards the end of the season, and dump some seafoam in it. Every fall its 2 pulls to start it or I plug it in and just tickle the starter
My Toro Power Shift 1132 from 1993 has served me well for the past 29 years. I changed a pulley once and the oil every year or two. Nothing else! Still has the original spark plug. Worked perfectly until last year when I started to have issues with the Power Shift (lever, gate, latches). The other day, the transmission grenaded The machine was blown off with compressed air after every use, and then stored in the garage. I've never sprayed anything on it and it is still 99.9% rust free. Decided on a new machine (Ariens Pro 28 Hydro). Now I have to figure out how to dispose of the Toro. For about $400 I could get a replacement transmission, but after 29 years, who doesn't want a new machine?!?!
Good tips! I prop my Ariens Deluxe 30" up on a piece of wood. My garage never gets too cold. But I'll lubricate it now for sure. I let it run dry after every season. And I only use premium gas! It runs so much better
Great video, thanks for putting this up! I do all of the steps you mentioned, however, I never thought of the wooden blocks, the space heater and the spraying of the lubricant as you showed us here. Excellent tips and I will definitely be adding those steps at the end of every use. Subscribed as well! Thanks, again!
I do all that you recommend except for two things: I don't let the engine cool down for 30 seconds on low throttle but will do so from now on. Second, i try to brush all of the snow from the auger but will try the small heater in front. Great tips, thanks!
My snowblowers are relatively new and I normally have them serviced every year. I didn't this year because I had to use a snow service the past couple years due to physical issues. Even with a service I sometimes have to do a little clean-up if the town plows after my service has been here. Unfortunately, they run great when the temps are around 30 or more - they start on the first pull. But when the temps drop to the 20's or below they just won't start. They were last serviced 2 years ago. Any ideas on what is going on?
Just changed out my dad's Arien belts on his new (less than 6 clearings old) blower from seized auger due to icing. If you hold auger engagement and pull start handle before trying to start it will pull if clear and not if iced up. 58 bucks for 2 belts and the hassle of changing them is a lesson learned for him and he's a veteran of many years clearing snow with blowers...guess it was just luck that it hasn't gotten him before. I told him to put an incandescent bulb in there to heat it up, but that little heater for 30 or on a timer would do a better job and he has one so I'll pass it on. Thanks!
@@GarageGear yeah, a cheap one for me, not so much my dad. I had contemplated putting heat on my blower after I was having some shuddering this last snow fall which I attributed to the excess of ice between the impeller and housing. I put the torpedo heater on it though and melted it. Mine was still turning, but knew it was causing the problem. It probably would have done the same to mine had I not taken the time to melt it down that day.
I’ve had my snowblower for over 25 years and never did any of your suggestions. I never had a problem. I change my oil as recommended by the manufacturer, oil and line it also as recommended and keep it clean. That’s it.
Good for you, like the guy who never wore seat belts and is still alive today. Garage Gear recommends oil changes as per mfrs recommendations , so you DO follow at least one of his suggestions. Greasing the shafts is to ensure that the bolts will shear before the gearbox is destroyed. Your shafts may be rusted solid but you never yet encountered a condition where a shear bolt would have sheared.
@@RSole9999 what’s up with you? What’s the connection with seat belts? That’s the dumbest thing I’ve seen yet. I mentioned I change my and lube regularly, as well as clean, - not at GG’s suggestion - because the mfg suggested it. I thought GG was a windbag, but you surely outdid him. Nice job
Here’s my problem : I finished running the system dry after turning the fuel valve. After the snowless winter we have seen this winter it was about 6 week before the next snowfall. With stabilized fuel, I thought it would be ok. Unfortunately that was not the case. Took the carb off & did a full inspection & cleaning. So I drained the tank. Add fresh gas & stabilizer. Still no luck. After many attempts to start, unburnt fuel was dripping from the exhaust. Pulled the plug, blew it off & checked the gap( .028”). The plug wouldn’t spark. What spark plug would be a good replacement?
I have never had a 2 stage but I have a Simplicity single stage for around 10 years. After I'm done snow blowing that thing goes into the unheated garage and I go inside drink a beer or 2. This is the first year I changed the oil in it. First year I changed the paddles, scraper bar and drive belt. End of winter storage stabil only with non ethanol gas and never run the carb dry. It should have blown up years ago but runs like new still.
And don't forget to use gas stabilizer when you're filling you fuel canister. This way it helps keep the gas as fresh as possible - in case there are longer periods of time between major snow storms. It also helps keep the fuel lines and carburetor clean of gum buildup (from old gas). At the end of the season empty out the gas tank, then run the snowblower until it starves from no gas. This will ensure the least amount of gas remains in the lines (and fuel filter). Then next season get new fresh fuel, add gas stabilizer, fuel up the snowblower, prime it according to your model's instructions, spray a little starter fluid into the carburetor - and watch that baby turn on with one pull (maybe two - that's still good). I recommend turning it on at least two weeks before your snow season typically starts. This way if there is something wrong, you have enough time to fix it (order parts, or have it services at the shop).
The biggest issue I have is not being able to drain the old gasoline from the tank. I am thinking to cut the fuel line and add an (accessible) drain valve.
@@normferguson2769 I have used a turkey baster to get some gas out of the tank. (Don't borrow one from your kitchen). It gets down into the gas tank. Does drip some when removing from the tank; then wipe it off with a paper towel or rag. Keep in mind there is some gas in the rag. My lawn- mower takes the same Ethanol Free gas so it's "fresh." Novelty of snow wears off after the 1st 4 feet, however. Am in Erie, PA.
One additional thing that I have always done is to shut down by turning off the fuel rather than ignition. Keeps the plug and carb cleaner. Starts first or second pull every time!
Great advice on the heater. I have a detached garage and usually always clean the snow off- except the other day. Yesterday the ice in the impeller prevented operation. Have a Toro which has a clutch disc instead of belt. I used de-icer solution which cleared it in about 10 minutes.
Lots of good ideas and thank you for an informative video. A couple of recommendations having lived in Maryland for several decades where we do not get snow on a regular basis. Firstly check your air pressure and your tires and make sure they are as inflated to the recommended level of air pressure. Secondly, I always drain my gas tank and drop the carburetor Bowl to make sure it is completely empty of gas. I perform this task because I don't know when we will get our next snow. I leave the gas cap off and I shove a rag into the filler nozzle of the gas tank because I don't want condensation building up inside. So I would add these items to your next video version. Thanks again for your suggestions they're very helpful and take care.
Hi From Snowy Canada. Good tips, in particular cleaning out the snow blower to avoid broken belts when trying to start a frozen auger. (Don't ask me how I know) I don't like the idea of using a space heater, if only because my unheated garage would take forever to heat and melt the snow in the machine. So what I do is to use a very large toilet bowl cleaning brush to remove the snow from the auger and blades and once done I have a spray bottle filled with windshield whipper solution (good to -40) and I then spray all the areas I cannot reach. When next time I need to run the blower, the snow it gone.
WD40 is available in gallon cans also. I prefer using the liquid WD40 in a heavy duty spray bottle instead of aerosol cans. My aerosol cans always seem to have propellant issues because my garage is unheated.:( WD40 also works great on snow shovels & snow pushers.
I’m smiling here. My Mom taught me to slow the machine for a bit before turning it off, brush it off, and set it on a mat over 40 yrs ago!! She was a widow, and she and I did a ton of projects together!!
Another way to keep snow off and surfaces slick, is to use furniture polish on the inside of the chute and exterior of the snow blower. Cheap and it works great.
I bought a Ariens deluxe 24. When assembling it, when I got to installing the Chute (two bolts) I noticed the chute is not completely sitting on the snowblower, there is like a 1/8th gap and it wiggles. The bolts that attach teh chute Tower to the blower do not have any adjustements and only have one position. The chute tower came asembled with the cable and all so I don't know. I'm wondering if there would be a assembly issue at the factory. I don't know how this is possible. Or is normal that it wiggles a bit?
So, mine didn’t come with a fuel shut off valve. I am adding one. But can’t decide which to choose but one that won’t rust (preferably metal) or a cheapie Plastic to prevent rust issue but may have more tendency to leak. I’m thinking of getting many plastic cheapies and then switching them out. Do most OEM have plastic valve shut off, are there any with metal oem? Great tips to prevent maintenance issues. I will be heeding all your advice.
Hey Jennifer, I’ve used both with no leaks. It will be many years before they start to leak if they even do for the plastic ones. Get 2-3 and swap them if necessary. Can’t go wrong. Thanks for watching Jennifer! 👍
I do all of these steps and learned that when you spray WD40 or Rust Check, be sure to avoid the little openings that go to your friction disk inside. it will cause it to slip and cause no end of grief. Great vid!
Great tips. One variation on the heat theme; I have, in the past, used a magnetic 120V block heater and attached it to the bottom of the belt drive housing to melt the snow/ice buildup.
My heated garage takes care of the melting and I use a leaf blower and/or compressed air to dry it off. I also generously spray PAM on all the snow contact areas which has greatly reduced clogging especially with wetter/heavier snow.
Some useful ideas but to be honest I've never done any of these things with my snowblower except brushing the snow off and digging away any build up around the impeller. Yes I have burned out one or two drive belts but that was more from grinding up ice chunks left by the municipal snow plow. My Snow blower is over 35 years old and still going strong without all the babying. It stays in my unheated garage when it isn't in use. Once or twice I've used a heater to unfreeze the starter worm gear that got stuck a few times but hey it is 35 years old too.
I've got a 16 year old Craftsman 24" that gets a hot supper every time she's used. I replaced the belts last year and serviced the carb. Still runs like a top every time I start it. It starts so easy I don't even use the electric start. My garage stays around 40F all winter so the snow melts off quite easy. I have a floor drain - so all the moisture goes yonder. No throttle on mine, nor do I understand why there would be one. When would you ever run a snow blower not on full power? I let mine idle for about 3 minutes before I shut it down. And perhaps the most important tip - don't use Ethanol gas. It attracts moisture and if you have a light winter then that gas is sitting in the tank just sucking up the moisture in the air. I only run non-ethanol gas - in most cases that's premium. Yep, I run premium in my blower and my mower. Ethanol gas is fine in a car that gets a regular refresh of fuel. But small engines that often sit unused and are used on a regular but stretched schedule are just looking for trouble with ethanol. Don't even mention fuel stabilizers. Keep fuel in a can and only fill what you need. If it sits for more than 30 days - put it in the car.
Really.... When I'm finished blowing I always brush off the snow, bring the unit into the shop, completely disassemble the augers and differential, I scrape off the gasket and clean with laser blades. I then remove the engine and tear down to check the end play of the crank, valve clearance and verify the boost the twin turbos are putting out. I always replace the friction drive disc no longer than 38 minutes of use. Of course i remove the now cold air from both tires and refill them with 64° - 76°F Argon. I then verify the TPS system has proper wifi Bluetooth connectivity and chart psi variation. OK, now the gas. I always drain the tank after each use and insert a bore scope to ensure I have no mouse infestation or hunks of ice inside, yes I have bad dreams about ice in da tank. Now I bring out a crimson red Ugg blanket and gently drape it over da machine, turn on some Neil Diamond and go have a beer. Again, really!
Too funny. I once had a guy claim that I was doing half assed by just draining motorcycle front forks and refilling the fork oil to the proper level once a riding season. He claimed that by doing so, that I was leaving all that wear material in there and accelerating wear! LOL His idea seemed to be that you should instead spend hours completely disassembling and meticulously cleaning and reassemble. Great, but most are only going to do that when fork seals start leaking. So probably 20K miles each time with that particulate staying in there all that time each time. Anyway. Kind of like arguing that changing your oil is terrible practice, that you should fully remove and disassemble your engine each time. SMH
For those that can't store their snowblower where it's above freezing, after shutdown I always move the throttle to the 3/4 position. That way if the throttle handle or cable gets frozen in place in the OFF position your snowblower will still start.
Yep. My brand new Compact 24, still ready for it's first-ever use in suburban Chicago, has only full-blast throttle which I wasn't happy about. But then I reasoned that I never throttled down my former 25-year-old Craftsman except to pause to call out to a family member doing another task, or put it down to idle when breaking up some chunks at the end of the driveway. But that's only because I could not pull-start the old 9-hp Tecumseh motor so I had to keep it running at slow speed. The new Ariens is easier to pull start out away from the outlet in the garage so I will just stop the motor when I don't want it hammering away full-tilt. We shall see!
I know it is not a lot of lube but I dont like the idea of throwing WD40 around my yard. yeah yeah I know... my vehicles leak more than throwing some snow thru the chute... but every little bit counts. I thought of cooking spray this year... so may give it a try on a new Toro I just purchased to see if it will help on heavy wet snow. I never have done any of those things other than store it inside and have not had any issues. Have had yard machine and Ariens. Yard machine was only replaced because I got my hands on a much larger Ariens. The Ariens was a used unit from a townhouse complex and thus had a hard life. It decided not to start this year... I believe no spark. So instead of spending a weekend trying to figure it out I just purchased a brand new Toro. Anyway seems like solid advice... I just have not done most of them 🙂
I use a kids plastic sled to put the front into to melt down the snow in the auger area. Then just dump it. Its a lot easier than a mat and it will never run over. And use an old comforter over the chute covering the auger-impeller area with a timer on the heater works a lot faster that the heat just escaping. I have the same snowblower for 22 years now. Never had a repair past sheer pins.
@@GarageGear If I could offer another suggestion, install the rubber pieces on the impeller that remove the space between the auger and housing. There are many kits on Amazon. Your snow blower will throw 50% farther and you can also walk right through the slush at the end of the driveway. I do my neighbors aprons as here they use a lot of salt and plow 3 times with each snow. Most annoying. Thanks for sharing to help others maintain equipment.
The tips are good overall, but this one is a miss. Air-cooled engines don’t typically need a cooldown, as there is no coolant to keep circulating with an idling engine. If it was run hard in the past couple minutes, you’re better off letting it run full speed with no load for a minute before shutting it off, as the fan also slows down with the engine.
Very helpful tips, J.B. I own the same Ariens snowblower and I am certainly guilty of just turning off the machine when I'm done with my driveway. I definitley have those rustmarks on my garage floor. I will try the space heater and WD-40 spray trick.
"If you're feeling the vibe and you want to be part of the tribe, subscribe" - Ok that is a great slogan and I instantly subscribed based on that alone. Love it. Good video too, thank you!
I am in Montreal, which I think is two days drive from your location. Your message travels far. And just so you know, not all products you recommend are available here. I have a question. Six months ago, I put the 91 octane gas for the snowblower into a plastic canister. The can was under a tarp with the snowblower. I am now unwrapping the tarp and snowblower. a) Should I just empty the canister into the car gas tank to mix with the other, or is the canister gas still good. The canister has never been above room temperature. I read elsewhere that it is OK to mix old 91gas with the current 87octaine that is sold locally for the car. However, it is a pain to buy 91 gas, because I don't know how much is in the gas-station pump plumbing and the hoses to the valve, before it reaches my canister. I thought to select and take the first two 2 gallons of 91 gas directly to the car, then filling the canister with, hopefully, what is 91gas, and then complete the fill of the car by switching back to 87octaine gas. No station around here has a separate pump exclusively for 91octane. I found this information on the Honda website. The same rule would apply to other gas powered snowblower machines. powerequipment.honda.com/snowblowers/fuel-recommendations Follow These Five Steps to Prevent Most Fuel-Related Problems ======================================================= Do not use gasoline containing more than 10% ethanol in your Honda snow blower. Gasoline containing higher levels of ethanol is corrosive and attracts water, which can cause starting or running problems or, in some cases, damage to your snowblower's fuel system. Store your gasoline in a clean, plastic, sealed container approved for gasoline storage. Close the vent (if equipped) when not in use, and store the container away from direct sunlight. If it takes more than 3 months to consume the fuel in the container, we suggest adding a fuel stabilizer to the fuel when you fill the container. A clean, plastic container approved for fuel storage will help prevent rust and metallic contaminants from entering the fuel system. Gasoline will deteriorate faster when exposed to air and sunlight. When you're finished using your snow blower (during the season), turn the fuel valve OFF, then start the engine and allow it to run until the engine runs out of fuel. Fill the fuel tank immediately after use to minimize air in the tank. If the fuel tank is partially filled, air in the tank can promote fuel deterioration. If snowfall in your area is sporadic, resulting in infrequent use over the winter, we suggest adding a fuel stabilizer to the fuel when you first fill your fuel storage container at the start of the season and at each subsequent refill. See below for additional information. Untreated gasoline left in the snow blower's fuel system can deteriorate quickly, causing starting or running problems and, in some cases, damage to the fuel system. By ensuring that all fuel put in your snow blower is stabilized, you can minimize the chances of deterioration and damage. Off-season or summer storage: Fuel should be removed from your snow blower or snowthrower for off-season or summer storage. See below for more information. Gasoline left in the snow blower's fuel system during the off-season will deteriorate, causing starting or running problems and, in some cases, damage to the fuel system. For protection of the blower, at end of season, it is best to fully drain the snowblower gas tank. Use fresh gas for the next season.
Thanks for the awesome videos! As a new owner of a Honda track drive snowblower, I found this super helpful, especially with all the snow we’ve been getting here in Silverthorne, Colorado this year. Great tips for keeping it running smoothly! Quick question: since my garage is heated, do I still need to use a heater on the machine after use? Thanks again for sharing your expertise!
@@lauriemazer4063 hey Laurie! Congrats on your snowblower purchase. If your garage is heated I wouldn’t worry about it unless you had a lot of snow/ice built up on it and need it off in a hurry before you used it again (next day)! Thanks for following along! 👍
I use RainX inside the augers housing and chute, it puts down a slippery coat that snow will not stick to. It's also cheaper with more in the spray bottle.
The heater is a big help melting the snow away and spraying down the machine helps prevent all that clogging! Give it a shot. You won’t be disappointed! 👍
WD40 will displace the water (what WD Stan’s for) but it will completely dissipate… use fluid film,,, it lasts, is tenacious, seals scratches from rust, and keeps snow from sticking… what they use to spray under cars to protect from rust up here in snow country.
Excellent !! I do everything up to the 2x4's, but never thought of the space heater or spray. I got the Ariens 30 Platinum SHO after we had 2 big winters. We share a 4 house drive way and the guy that had a blower moved so I bought one. I've used it 3 times in 4 years. LOL But it's great when I do use it and tips like this are perfect for my situation. Thank you !!
Another awesome video!! Didn't think about it. Got my new snowblower few months ago and have used it twice. Never did i do any of these tips. After use just moved it into the garage and let it melt completely. Will take these tips to my grave bud, haha!!! Question - can i use wd40 inside the auger compartment and the outside? If i use wd40 on the outside should i wipe it down or leave it as is? Thanks
The silicone spray truck is also useful on the underside of your lawnmower deck to keep grass from clumping. Especially helpful on the rear chute outlet if you use a bagger.
I wish I knew this stuff years ago but better late than never! Thank you for the straightforward lessons and helpful visuals! The snowpile at the end of the driveway is the worst!
Great job and always enthusiastic the way you explain things. I will follow exactly as you say so I can last my snowblower long. Keep up the great work man!
I recently used my machine and had to go inside mid-job. I left it outside knowing I’d be right back…. Well I got sidetracked and it was still snowing. When I got back out there was ice and snow on it. No big deal except, at that very moment, the drive wheels stopped working. Can’t be a coincidence. Now I have to figure out why. I am drying it off now to see if that helps. I don’t think it’s a shear pin because when I push it I can still hear the gears turning
@@GarageGear Strangest thing: I brought it in the garage and let everything dry off and the drive wheels work again. Reverse is a little spotty… the wheels sort of buck as they turn (they have done that all year). I am guessing the friction disc is getting bad, but hasn’t completely crapped out yet???? It’d be nice if I can get her through winter and fix it (or take it somewhere to get fixed) in the off-season.
Here is a link to the SPACE HEATER I use! Melt that snow and save your belts! amzn.to/3Kdsz8z
Got it. Thanks.
@@ReyHubbard ROCK ON Ren!
Is that heater tip-proof? I am leary of free standing heaters without safety cutoffs.
There is a new model without a fan, that uses quartz rods and a reflector. It is is floor standing and tip-proof. Its a good alternative. Might take 2 minutes more time to do the directed heating
@@lsatenstein this one won’t fall over it has a wide base.
Just another comment to add. I live in Ottawa Canada with a good 5 months of winter. I've happily owned and operated a (only one) snowblower for 40+ years. While Garage Gear guy gives good solid advice, I don't do any of that stuff, except keeping the skid plates on a piece of wood off the concrete (in my garage). I summer-ize by running the gas tank dry at the end of every winter and have my snowblower professionally serviced once every 5 years for a couple hundred bucks. They do oil, lube everything, carb, change snow throwing belt. In my opinion that's all you need! Works for me.
Thanks for sharing
Followed the manufacturer's video and used a gas stabilizer in the tank and ran the carb dry. Mold grew in the bottom of the gas tank. When I started it up the next winter the mold destroyed my carburetor. I'm back to running the whole machine completely dry...both gas tank and carb.
@@redveiner sounds like you might have had some water in the fuel and it sat in the bottom of the tank for enough time to grow mold...? OR the fuel stabilizer was garbage and had contaminants.
So youre only changing engine oil every 5 years?
i guess i will have to rent a truck to get it to the guy, or do they come to your house to service it (humour me)?
I just bought an Ariens about two years ago, compared to my last machine (Snapper, 2001) which died in 2021, it's like going from a Chevy to a Cadillac, love the way it performs, best money ever spent. I do regular Oil changes, plug changes and drain fuel at the end of the use season. It is stowed in a dry ,clean storage shed during the summer. I don't run a heater in the garage to get rid of Chute and Auger snow accumulation, I let the engine cool down for few minutes running, then, in the driveway I use a pump sprayer with hot tap water to wash down the areas, after a short dry time it is put in the garage, Have no problems doing this.
Like you procedures here J! Thanks for sharing!
Smart guy
Love that hot water tip. How do you prevent ice on your driveway that is always freezing unless the sun is out?
I was recommended an Ariens but went with a snowblower that was on sale at Menards. I take good care of it so it runs great. I love the electric start but don't really need it.
I clean mine completely. Even inside the auger.
I store it outside (no shed or garage) and dont want it to be ice and possibly break something.
While i clean it (with a car brush) its usually fully cooled down. I put a snowblower cover on it and then a tarp on it for even more water protection.
I also spray with p100 spray since it uses wire to pull stuff around like the shoot.
It would freeze and jam when really cold but since spray everything with the p100(like wd40 but rated for very cold temps. -40c) its been great. No more wire freezing.
Mine also has electric start but its in a square thingy and my extension cord tip wouldn't fit in it so i use only the pull start. Starts on the first pull every time. Even in a week of -20c -30c it'll start on the first pull without having to do anything special.
(My snowblower is a yardworks)
Thanks for sharing Weasel!
How do you clean the auger outside? If I use a heater, I’m going to have a puddle of ice.
@lc3722 car brush. I get a cheap dollar store car brush for the snow and brush all the snow out
I have a snowblower almost the same model as yours, while I use a spray lube at the rotating points on the auger and shoot I no longer use silicone on the shoot or in the auger housing. Silicone and WD40 or lubes of this nature get thick and hold snow and moisture at when cold temperatures. Take a cloth with mineral sprites and wipe all the surfaces clean, this includes the auger. Get a bottle of spray hybrid ceramic car coating, there are a number available. They dry hard - resist moisture and snow buildup up. Also recommend spraying your snow shovel, works there also.
Great tip with the hybrid ceramic coating! I’ll look into that! Thanks for sharing!
I use regular old rain-x, seems to work effectively and have good endurance. I just trippple coat everything in the fall and it seems to last all winter.
Another tip…when you snowblow, go out to the street with the machine and open up the end of your driveway first. Blow all of the snow and salt or sand mixture at the road before doing the remainder of your driveway. This helps to clean all of the “contaminants” from the auger housing and impeller as you are blowing out the driveway, keeping your machine cleaner.
Good tip! 👍
Love that tip 👍
@@242-f5u This is total truth as that stuff is nasty as heck. Thank you!
Huh? How am I going to do that when my garage is 300 feet from the road? To run that big heavy Ariens any distance the tires will pack down the snow that the tires travel over. Ever try to blow packed down snow that a 200 lbs machine just ran over?
I first need a path just to get to the road, why make my trip back up the driveway over snow I just packed down that can't be removed with the snowblower? Now I'd need to hand shovel two tracks of 2-4 inch high peaks of packed snow the full length of my 300' driveway. I start blowing right out the garage door.
@@pauldentler7127 just make a bee line for the road, clearing your initial pass as you go, not rocket science. Now work your way back in that salt free powder….
With my snowblower, after every use, I run the carburetor dry so that at the end of the season I know that I have already Summer-ized my snowblower. I store my snowblower in a heated garage and I put blocks of wood under the unit. I live in Nova Scotia Canada, and winter are a little different, Nova Scotia snowstorms have lots of moisture so we either get snow, wet snow, or snowy ice, which can be a challenge for the auger belt. Get tips Garage Gear!
@@MrPlayerPerson RIGHT ON Mr player
I learned a lesson the hard way a couple of years ago. I bought a used snow blower that was just a hand pull start. While trying to start it cold I torn a tendon in my shoulder. After alittle thinking I realize my error, trying to start it when the oil was cold.
Ever since that day I have placed a hair dryer next to the crank case for 15 mins
to harm up oil before starting.
I have recently bought an electric start and will be doing the same with it.
Good thinking Darrell! Thanks for that tip! 👍
I have a Cub Cadet Trac machine I bought new in 1976 . Before putting away between snow storms I brush off outside of blower around chute. I also clear out snow inside auger housing. Having an attached garage I place blower inside for it to dry off.👍 🎉You have good tips lifting blower off concrete to alleviate rust concerns. 👍 I also spray down chute and auger with (PAM )to keep snow from sticking👍
Thanks for the feedback! Thanks for sharing! That’s awesome!
Have the Ariens 28 SHO Deluxe. I use a car windshield scraper brush to get most of the snow out of the auger and impeller after shutdown. I did this after throwing ice out of the chute after startup when the snow melted and froze. Didn't break a belt but the ice slammed into the side of the garage. If the augers seem dangerous after shutdown you can always remove the start key- can't run without the key. As far as fuel goes there are several gas stations in town that sell ethanol free premium fuel. I use a 5 gallon gas can for the lawn mower and snowblower and add stabil before fill up at the gas station. Ariens makes a very good snowblower.
Thanks for sharing your methods here Watae! 👍
My complements on a useful video. I have a 28" Ariens. One thing I have been doing is turning the ignition off to shut down the machine for refilling the gas tank or when finished. Per your suggestion, will throttle down for a cool off. Mid season, when the temps get above freezing, will spray the auger, housing, and chute with a Lanolin based product-Fluid Film. Not unusual to get snow in April in Lawrence Park, (Erie) PA. Also, appreciate reading the comments from others. Take care.
Thanks for the positive feedback Conrad! Thanks for watching! 👍
Hello JB. Do you live in the Buffalo area? We have relatives in South Buffalo and West Seneca, just curious. Will be checking out more of your videos.
Great tips. Can't bank on my tenant to follow these steps at our rental duplex, ( I charge them less than half the going rental rate the entire year for the occasional mowing or snow removal when I'm not there) but I'll be sure to use a couple of these tips on my snowthrower attached to my JD which isn't stored indoors but under a 12' tarp. Gets mighty cold in my area with just as much wet snow that acts like wildlife seeking a nice place to keep out of the wind. Makes a lot of sense to melt the ice & snow crammed into the auger area. I depend on my JD snowthrower since I clear 7 driveways and the bridge walkway to church. I don't take money, it's more a neighborly thing I do. If my thrower is down, a lot of people sure take notice. Thanks
Thanks for sharing J
I replaced a single stage Cub Cadet (my Barbie snow blower) with a 26” Craftsman (named it Gus) after the snow dump in WNY in November and before the most recent storm rolling in right how. I haven’t used it yet, but I learned what to do before, during, and after use from watching several of your videos. They all had great content with simple tips and great instructions. I’m sure I saved myself some time and repair costs by educating myself with your help, which made me subscribe to be part of the tribe after feeling the vibe.
Hey Melissa! Appreciate your positive feedback!!! I’m sure Gus will work great for you! Thanks for subscribing and go BILLS! Merry Christmas!
I own a 2010 areins 28 pro, never kept it in a heated garage, never used a space heater. End of every season I chang the oil and spray the whole machine down with atf fluid for linkage lube and rust prevention, also grease the shaft zerks. What a machine they build, I've used it to clear my old jobs parking lot before, always hit the neighbors houses as well. Heated garage in my dreams but I do have the ariens cover.
They build em well don’t they! Thanks for watching carpenter!
Great advice. I usually brush off my blower at well but never thought about the heater (which I have) and placing on a mat and elevating it.
My issue is I lost the wing nut and bolt to the top portion of the chute that raises & lowers. I’ve replaced with bolts but keep losing due to vibration. What do I use to prevent that and still be able to operate the directional chute without tightening the bolt.
Thanks in advance
Hey John have you tried a lock nut? You can place it to a certain tightness and then you should still be able to adjust it without an issue. Let me know if you tried one.
Here in Alaska we get our fair share of snow. I always throttle down and let the snowblower idle for a couple of minutes before shutting it off, brush the big spots of snow off, then park it outside behind my garage and place a deep-sided plastic sled upside down on top of the snowblower to keep most of the weather off. Stays outside year round. It’s pry 10-12 years old, no visible rust, and fires right up when needed. Only takes a couple of minutes to put it away.
Thanks for sharing david
Tips from a Toro 928 owner: -Premium gas ONLY. - warm the engine for a few minutes first while you shovel some spots where the snowblower doesn’t get used (steps, deck, porch, etc.), then ramp engine up to 50% for a minute before going to full power and starting to blow snow. - When the snow is not very deep and when you can try only running the engine at 60% or 80% or 90% if that is enough power to get the job done so there is less wear and tear on the engine. - lower the RPM when engaging the auger and keep the auger engaged as long as possible to reduce wear to the belt as most wear comes from engaging the auger at full throttle. - when finishing up lower the RPM to 60% or 40% or whatever you can that still works for you to “step down” the engine temp for a couple minutes, then when finished let the machine idle with the fuel line shut off till it dies. That will further cool the engine and run the carb dry so there is no fuel sitting in there that can gum up the carb long term. 👍🏻 ❤ ❄️ ⛄️
@@tyrel7185 thanks for sharing tyrel
No thanks, that's way too much dickin' around. Start it up, warm it up then pinnit for the duration of snowblowing.
Thanks for the well made video.
I have a 31 year old Honda 2 stage 24 inch since new.
Live in NJ
It lives in a heated garage and sits on a rubber mat.
Ive changed the drive belt and auger belt once.
Ive replace the tires due to age and cracking once.
I learned the hard way to never leave gasoline in the carburetor so when Im finished I put it to idle to cool and then turn the fuel supply off. When the carburetor is out of fuel the engine stalls.
The first year I had it gasoline in the carburetor went bad and I had to buy a new carburetor and on Honda thats not cheap.
Before putting it in the garage after use, I get a bucket of hot water and throw it in the shute and auger. I do this over the nearest storm drain. All the snow gone and back in the garage it goes.
Personally I steer clear of WD 40 on my snowblower. WD 40 contains a Vaseline material that in the long term attracts and holds dust and dirt.
Short term its okay but Id never store anything covered in WD 40.
Lastly if garage keep the snow blower will last a long time, if you change the oil yearly, make sure it has fresh fuel, clean / change the air filter an check / change the $2.00 spark plug.
I bought my Honda in 1991 and the salesman told me , its the last snowblower youll ever buy if you take care of it. You know I think he may be right.
That Honda will last forever if you take care of it! Sounds like you’re on it! Keep it up my friend!
Drain the float bowl also.
Good tips. I recently bought a snow blower and when I did, the company selling it to me gave me most of the tips (not the heater for the blades). However in a warm garage, before I put it in the shed, I let it dry out and then put silicon on it as that was also recommended to me by the company. I was wondering if there is anything else I needed to do so I watched. Thank you for your videos, they either confirm I do the right thing or if there is something else I can do.
Thanks Sam! A warm garage works well too! Mine usually stays around 30-45 degrees. The heater really speeds things up! You’re on the right track my friend! Take care of that snowblower and it will take care of you for a long time! Thanks for being a cool fan!
I agree with the throttle down and brushing of as much snow as you can. But the heater and the rest??? I live in Western NY and I have a 20 year old 11hp John Deer and an unattached garage that's at outside air temp and it runs just as good as it did 20 years ago. I also turn the fuel shutoff off and run the carb empty at a low rpm after every operation. I also empty the tank at the end of every season before storage. Ironically I got a 3 year old Cub Cadet from my son this summer and it failed to start and is now in for service. To remove the 2ft off snow this week I had to rely on the 20yr old John Deer :)
A fellow WNY’er! Awesome my friend! Glad your machine is still rocking! 👍
@@GarageGear Nice to know that your from the area! I forgot to mention that I use Mobil 1 for oil. It flows easy when cold, makes starting a lot easer.
@@JimB531 that’s good oil to use for sure! Let’s go BUFFALO!!!
Still using my 1987 Snapper Snow Blower. I have done all these step from day one. My owners manual tells you to put the engine speed down to an idle when you are done and all the engine to cool down. While it is cooling down I clear the snow off, keeping it running also helps to melt excess snow. I have also used car wax on as much of the unit as safely possible avoiding getting too close the the blades which can require a trip to the ER (ask me how I know) .
Not sure if I want to ask! Lol Thanks for sharing your procedures here!
@@GarageGear Four stitches later and a visit to the ER, them blades are razor sharp ;-)
@@bobwendoloski6970 was this recently?
@@GarageGear No many years ago when I was young and dumb
@@bobwendoloski6970 you and adventurous you mean?
We take the “stick it back into the garage and let it melt out on its own” approach, as well as the “leave it in the shed having done no maintenance all summer” one with our 25 year old Toro two stroke single stage. I’m not saying it’s the right way to do it or even that it’s a good idea, but the thing still starts on the second pull, and I changed the paddles and scraper for the first time last winter. They don’t make them like they used to. It generally comes out in October and goes back in May in this bit of Canada.
Awesome that your machine is still rockin! Thanks for sharing Malcolm!
I don't have a heated garage, and keep my snowblower in an unheated shed that has no electricity. I've never had an issue. I thoroughly clean it after every use, and actually use an old plastic gas can under the pan and have the back wheels off the ground to allow water to drain forward. As for the impeller freezing, I've had it happen a couple times in the past when I didn't prop up the blower, and have an old wooden axe handle that I use to check the impeller and give it a couple taps with the wooden handle to free it if ice does form. This step is on my startup routine, same as checking the oil and filling the fuel tank.
The most important thing I do? Maintenance. During the summer I thoroughly clean the blower, oil, grease and wax it. A couple of years ago I touched up the paint in a couple of places, then waxed it again. Any mechanical parts that need repair or replacing get done right away. One friction disk, a dip stick (top popped off), and a few shear bolts. Everything else is original. If I'm not mistaken, my blower is 34 years old, and will likely last another 34 years.
All good tips here Wayne! Thanks a lot for sharing! 👍👍
Clean your auger and impeller with a brush. Once its been clean, start your snowblower again and run the auger a few seconds. It will clear the remaining snow that fell at the bottom and it prevents ice from forming. I had a ariens and now i have a honda. I have never had a single issue doing this method.
I’ve got a 22 year old Ariens 1028. It handles a 110 ft, double width driveway and a 150 ft winding path quite handily, here in the always snowy Ottawa Valley. Common sense tips, such as the ones in this video, and yearly maintenance, have kept the beast in good shape.
Thanks for sharing Rich!!!👍
Wow, what irony. I just picked up a 927LE Ariens in Carleton Place yesterday and I’m having a blast with it in Hudson QC2 long driveways are handled easily with the great 2008 machine.
@@Hot80s I have an Ariens also, I think it is a 732. It's older but I love it in WNY! Her name is Ashley.
@@Hot80sThat's not irony, that's a coincidence.
Hell yeah ottawa valley mentioned
Thank you so much!!! Recently single female who "splurged" on a snow blower. I was worried about the investment since, you know, now a days, things don't last long like they used to!!! Love your video! Gave peace of mind that it will outlast me! Now, need to find "winterizing snow blower" and "how to use a Riding Mower". Another splurge, and it sits- 3 months. Still pushing a mower on 1/2 acre at 63 yrs old. I"m a "visual learner" (show me), so the instruction book is confusing. Sigh...
Hey Tjsinpa, glad you found this video helpful! I am proud of you for mowing your 1/2 acre lawn with a push mower! That is an accomplishment no doubt about it! Here is a link to storing your snowblower in the summer if that is what you are referring to. HOW TO SUMMERIZE A SNOWBLOWER FOR BEGINNERS
th-cam.com/video/9Gtl1lNC8tI/w-d-xo.html
I do not do much with riding mowers but can tell you that the procedures aren’t far off from other equipment. Thanks for watching! 👍
Oh, you are the reason housing prices are through the roof !
This winter it was very colder than normal, about 10 degrees at night. When snow hit I pulled out my snow blower that had been stored outside. I got it started but the auger was jammed. I put the snow blower in the garage and warmed it up. Still jammed. I tapped on the transfer box with a hammer a bit. That loosened it up and all was good. My guess is the oil/grease in the transfer box was too thick and when the motor tried to turn the spindle it jammed. Warming it up and tapping on the housing loosened it up. So moving forward I'll move my snow blower to the garage sooner before it gets too cold.
Got it! Glad you located the issue! Thanks for watching don!
I recommend Maxima SC1. You don’t need to wipe it off. MX riders use it with great success to keep mud from sticking to the bike and under the fenders. Also, more of a start of season prep, but be sure to lube the auger shaft and only use genuine Ariens shear pins only tightened down to just snug as in directions. Also always do a last minute grounds check for branches and old newspapers on the ground before the snow hits.
Thanks for sharing Gnx!
Use manufacturer shear pins only and watch for old rolled up newspapers. Getting that out of your snowblower can be problematic for sure
@@georgelange5272 thanks for sharing
@@georgelange5272Extension cords are REALLY fun! Before I clear neighbour’s driveways, I always ‘kick’ through the snow to find buried cords.
Good suggestions. Every spring, before putting it away for the warm weather, I change the oil, run the gas tank dry and empty a can of WD40 (or similar spray) on the whole body. Original paint still on the blower after 32 years. I kid you not. Only 2 spark plugs in 32 years. ...and starts with fresh gas 1st or 2nd pull.
Awesome tips John! Thanks for sharing!
Simple steps that you can do that will make your snowblower outlast you!
@@adriantomlin2902 take care of it and it takes care of you! 👍
Hey John, I usually change my oil around Oct,I never have drained the gas tank usually put some stabilizer in it
Started investing in TruFuel for my lawn equipment and have been pleasantly surprised that I don’t have to run them dry at the end of the season and they always start up on the first or second pull the following season.
Never put Ethanol gas in it. Alcohol free 91octane is the only way to go.
Ethanol free is the way to be! Thanks for watching!
Not easy to find in the northeast sadly.
Mine only takes 60v batteries ⛄
Hi JB. Great video's. Just tried to use my neighbors Ariens 11528LE snow blower to clear her driveway. I found the right side of the auger spinning freely. When I checked the shear bolt, the head of the bolt and the nut came right off. Tried to locate the remainder of the shear bolt to tap it out of the hole but I can't seem to find the right position. Do I need to remove the shaft and auger to locate the bolt and tap it out? Thanks, Dave
Just to be clear Dave… is part of it stuck inside and you can’t get it out? If you line up the holes and insert a new shear pin you should knock the other free. Let me know .
No longer own my snowblower since I moved to Texas but I was the guy who always did all of the neighbor's homes when I did own my "Mean Machine".
Great tips but I would add 1 more item, when I was done using my machine for the season I would take it out and run it dry. While I was doing that I would add some STA-BIL to the little gas that was left so that no matter what was left in the tank it wouldn't gum up the carb. Also I pitched my machine a few degrees by putting a brick under one wheel so that the gas would all drain into the carb while I was running it dry.
Never had a problem starting my snow blower in the 10 years I owned it.
Great tips my friend! How’s the weather in Texas nowadays? Miss the snow?
@@GarageGear It's funny for what passes for snow here.
They're just not prepared for it so when they get an inch or two schools close and people are in a panic.
@@davidp419 and it’s probably all melted the very next day. 😂
For those that are concerned about using silicone or WD-40 and throwing snow that maybe contaminated, you can use a PAM spray which works just as well and biodegradable
Thanks for sharing!
Agreed! Pan is cheaper and safe for pets and water table.
@@Kingnome thanks for watching
@@GarageGear Give a shot and make a video about it!
@@davidspoelstra8527 I’ll see what I can do!
Newly single mom of 3 kids here in Colorado, and was given a used snow thrower 2 days ago. I'm a nurse so this mechanical stuff is not my wheelhouse. HOWEVER, I know I can do this maintenance because of your GREAT video! Yesterday I bought a rubber mat and silicone spray. I am ready for the foot of snow forecast for tomorrow. Thank you!
Hey I loves! Sounds like you are ready to go! If you ever have any questions feel free to reach out! Happy snowblowing! Thanks for watching!
Don't worry about your "Mechanical" skills, I'm an Accountant, I can cut myself with a screwdriver...🤣
Don't worry, those machine, no matther the brand, are nearly Bomb Proof... You'll see, you'll have soooo much fun throwing snow 10 feet in the air... :)
Don't use silicone spray. Silicone spray's purpose is to lubricate while ensuring you don't break down any rubber or plastic. There aren't any rubber or plastic components inside a blower. A petroleum based product will help shed moisture and will perform much better. I personally use Krown corrosion protection but WD40 as described in the video is a great product too.
@@SuzukiKid400 thanks for sharing
A smart thing to do, especially for those blowers that may see limited use each year, is to turn off the fuel valve and run the carb out of gas after each use.
I usually run it out in February or March as winter winds down. Thanks for watching!
i do this every time, you never know when it will be the last use for the season
I was going to post this, more than any of the other tips, do this. You never know when the last use will be its last, so, let the carb run dry. Also, use ethanol free gas.
Run the gas tank dry. That way you don't leave gas in it to go stale and turn to varnish. Then next winter you start with fresh fuel.
@@GarageGear can you make a video on how to do this?
I just a had a failure. It was the first of it's kind. My snow blower is stored outside with a heavy cover. In this last storm the cover was partly blown off. After starting, when I tried to move, nothing happened. The auger engaged fine. On closer examination, the snow was blown into the drive section of the unit and formed a sheet of ice on the drive plate! No friction, no go! A few minutes with my heat gun fixed the issue.
When I covered it this time, I put 2 extra spring clamps in addition to the two bungee cords that I use to hold the cover on.
Thanks for sharing!
After use I blow clean salt-free snow and then I always cool down the engine at idle, brush off the snow from the deck, housing and chute. Then I put the throttle up to 3/4 and engage the impellor to clear the snow and water from the impellor housing. Then I idle the engine and back the blower into my unheated garage. It is stored on a rubber mat. The instructions from Ariens say before starting to engage the blower clutch and pull the pull start cord to make sure the impellor is not frozen in place. Only If OK, then choke, throttle and prime before starting the engine. Once in twenty years I have had a frozen impellor. It was a pain to get free as the temp was below zero at the time.
Thanks for sharing Walter!
I always turn off the gas line (instead of switching it off immeditately), slowly lets the engine use up all the gas from tank to cylinder. Throughout the 30 minutes I am generally using my snow blower, I gradually turn down the choke settings as the engine heats up through use. Good tips!
Another good tip here! I actually start doing that when I get closer to the end of the season. Just because I never really know when my last snowblow of the season will be. Thanks for watching Andrew!
I also do this on my tractor. It's a great habit to get into
Mine doesn't have a fuel line shit off and doesn't run without the choke on😔
@@NickVetter giving your carb a quick cleaning may solve your choke issue. Thanks for watching!
@Garage Gear I have a troybuilt where I have to take apart half the snow blower so I'm saving it untill summer
Thank you for this video. Since hubby died I've had to learn how to snow blow. I'm getting good at operating it. Your advice on how to care for it between uses has been valuable to me.
hey crazy4truth! Sorry for your loss. It means a lot to me knowing that these videos are helping you out! Thank you for being a cool fan!
My first time watching Garage Gear. I loved the tips and will definitely apply them next time I go out with my snowblower. Thank you !
ROCK ON Steven! Make that machine last my friend! Thanks for watching!
Came across your videos while looking for information on snowblower summer storage; (specifically, whether it's OK to let the machine rest on its tires all summer.) Quite informative and useful. Thanks!
After doing my driveway, path to the backyard garage and fence line composter, and the driveways of two of my neighbours, I have neither the energy nor the patience to be quite so diligent about post-use rituals, beyond cleaning out the snow from the scoop, augers & impeller. Post use, I bounce the machine up and down & stand it upright to clear loose snow. Nor do I have a heated garage in which to carry out such precision detailing. What I do do though, is prior to next use, I ensure that the impeller moves freely before starting the machine (Ariens Classic 24+.)
One piece of advice that I recommend is NOT using the bracket for the cleaning tool except for summer storage. I have twice replaced the bracket after breaking it because I reefed on it too hard, discovering too late that the tool had frozen into the bracket, breaking the bracket in the process. Now it hangs from a hook on the back porch railing.
Thanks for sharing what you do Kwazy! Welcome to the channel! 👍
Garage Gear , looking to purchase a new snowblower , I live in the snow belt of Western NY that gets Lake effect snowstorms & heavy deep snow , 100 ft concrete driveway and wanted to know what snowblowers are best rated & which brands to stay away from . Two stage or Three stage? What brand do you have & your professional opinion , not worried about spending some extra money for a snowblower that will perform for me and have zero problems with . Thank you
Hey heavy Chevy! I would look at an ariens. Can’t go wrong with them. Deluxe models and up are all great based on what you want/need. I have an Ariens professional 32 and she’s a tank! Go bills! 👍
To prevent any melting snow from collecting, I pour warm water on the blower housing (keeping away from the engine). This removes 100% of all snow, leaving only “drips” to evaporate. Then, I place blocks under the wheels, not the blower housing … I think this works better as water wants to collect around the 2nd stage impeller. The blocks under the wheels makes any water here drain out the front of the unit.
Good tip! Thanks for sharing!
Great tips. Definitely agree with the cool down for the engine. I had always been told to run fan-cooled air-cooled engines, like those found on power equipment like mowers and blowers, on high rpm before shutting down. The concept is to keep the fan spinning fast and moving more air than it would at idle. That may be more important on a mower in warm temps rather than a snow blower in cold temps. Regardless, keeping that fan spinning to cool an engine after it has finished working hard is a great tip. Thanks.
Thanks for sharing this Keith! 👍
Manufacturers recommend running an engine at full throttle because they run cooler. The flywheels have fins on them that move air. Idle RPM move less air, and restrict cooling. You will see sheet metal wrapped around the cooling fins to assist the air movement around the head. Bottom line, you want a cooler engine, run at full throttle as per manufacturers guidelines.
@@johnfromnj885 thanks for sharing!
That's an urban myth. You'll never find any manufacturer saying that in writing, because it's simply not true. We've all met the guy who runs his chainsaw full tilt all the time; his chainsaw doesn't last long. With experience you learn just how much throttle to give it, and that's the sign of a veteran. Anyways, if you're concerned about limiting engine temperature don't work it so hard.
I have done everything you’ve done once I saw the rust marks in my garage floor except the silicone spray at the end. Thanks for the advice. Since I lost my husband and am a widow I have to learn all the shortcuts on making my equipment last as long as possible. Great video 👍
Hey Karen, first of all let me say that I am sorry for your loss. Second, I give you a lot of credit tackling this head on. I have plenty of content here to help you out. If you ever have a question or problem come up just let me know. Thanks for being a cool fan of the channel!
@@GarageGear thank you.
Hi Karen, sorry to hear about your husband. You are an inspiration. Quick tip re 300 lb. plus snow blower use. Go slow, let the machine do the work, learn efficient snow clearing patterns (path), avoid pulling/pushing/forcing machines direction. Use ear and eye protection, and dress appropriately, stay hydrated, and be sure to take breaks when needed. Slow, steady, safe.
🙏❤😉👍
May God give you strength
@@karenmckillip8685 Hang in there Karen, you will make it girl, take care.
Frozen impeller just happened to me. Smoked the belt. Now I gotta wait til temps rise above 10 so I can change the belt. I do not have access to heated quarters. It sits in the barn all the time. Dealers suggested putting the rear wheels on a 2x4 and pouring hot water down the chute to get ice out from behind the impeller. This worked, but every time I leave it? How do I prevent another freezup?
He Ren, you may have to pour the water down it prior to use to break up any ice. That might be your best bet. Thanks for watching my friend!
Last week Cleared out about 2 1/2 feet of drifts from my driveway and put the Blower back into the garage. Went out later in the evening and the Throttle cable was really taunt/stiff, throttle cable wont fully engage the linkage, I can manually engage the linkage with some Needle Nose Pliers, not sure if Throttle cable went bad or Throttle body Linkage did....
Hey rocknroll! Try following the cable all the way back to see if there is something stuck. Could be inside the machine possibly. Thanks for watching!
I really appreciate the maintenance tips. I ordered belts and a friction disc, yesterday after I realized my machine is 8 years old. Time flies!!
Crazy how fast these things age Tom! Good idea to look things over! Better to be proactive! Thanks for being a cool fan!
Great video! I always prop mine up on wood blocks too in the heated garage. Taking care of your snowblower sure does make it work like new year after year!
Great tip my friend! Take care of your machine and it takes care of you! Thanks for watching lawn lover!
My 35 yr.old 29" Craftsman is till going strong . Thanks for the heater idea , I have been cleaning it thoroughly using car wash brushes & using a small stick in the center to elevate the bottom from the cold cement floor . There is no drain hole to drain the housing ,so I tip the blower forward enough to allow any water left to run out and dry with a paper towel . I have a 2 speed Mr. Furnace heater . How about leaving a work light with a 100W bulb inside the housing all night ?
@@smerchly haha that will heat things up too! Thanks for sharing smerchly!
I run a Troybuilt. 25 + years. I tip the blower FORWARD also to have the water run out the front and not pool in the chute impeller area. Here in eastern PA we have mostly ‘sticky’ snow which makes blowing tough. I will try the WD40 trick you mentioned to help keep the exit chute clear especially.
I've been doing this on my 20 year old Honda 724 since new. Using 'straight' gas instead of the readily available ethanol- infested stuff helps tremendously too. No gummed up carb and fowled plugs every year!
Thanks for sharing the tip!
A major US highway exists at the end of my drive. The state graces me with 3-5 lanes of wet, heavy, salt laden snow all winter long. Salt eats snowblowers. So I do all that you mention in this video plus spraying warm, clean water on the snowblower after it has had all the snow removed. I don't use an electric heater, I use a tin can alcohol radiant heater.
Thanks for sharing Lee!
Some good tips on how to clean and store your snowblower. I mentioned in another thread that I purchase store brand canola oil by the gallon and decant it into a spray bottle for keeping the surfaces slick. I also check to make sure no shear pins have been sheared off and replace if necessary. I always keep lots of spare shear pins handy and re-stock them every season. I do like that little space heater and just placed an order for it as I've been using a propane blast heater which is effective but gives off nasty fumes. Thanks for sharing. Cheers from northern Vermont.
Thanks for sharing this with the community flat! 👍
That's awesome! I have a new snowblower and i intent to keep it that way. It's funny but i do exactly the same thing every time, i don't mind at all. I also like to give it a quick air spray using the air compressor to flush out the water in places where hands can't reach. Super awesome video. Keep up the good work brother 👍👍
Thanks a lot for the positive feedback MP! Great minds think alike! Thanks for being a cool fan!👍
Thanks for the tips. I just replaced a seven year old underpowered blower that didn’t quite make five years (the last two years presented a host of problems) as I do six to seven neighbor’s drives. These tips will definitely make a difference. Thanks again!
You got it Reese! Keep that machine going! Thanks for watching! 👍
My Ariens needed a spark plug in its 5th winter. Otherwise it was a brute to start manually. I almost always use the electric starter but sometimes I might want to shut it off in a neighbors driveway.
Good job dude....nice video. As someone who runs a very large facilities department (we have 14 snow blowers) I can tell you that ethanol in the fuel has caused more headaches than anything else. We started buying non-ethanol fuel (TRUFUEL) in bulk several years ago and it has made an enormous difference.
Thanks Bill! You’re right ethanol free gas makes a huge difference! Better starts and no carb drama! Thanks for watching!
Wouldn’t that be insanely expensive? I only run that after the end of the season through the carb with a touch of Stabill. To use it as gas All the time is a no needer. I only do that with my $700 chainsaw
@@doejon6821 It really does work well in the engine! And if ethanol free isn’t available this may be the next best option!
I run premium gas in all my small motors. Never a problem. No ethanol. More power.
I've got to second this. I drive out of my way to a gas station with one ethanol free pump and pay extra for it. It's great in the lawn tractor and snowblower.
I don't spray mine but I do knock the excess snow off, and I keep the base on an old yardstick I got from the State Fair to keep my floor from getting stained up. I also have a bit of a pitch to the floor so I am angled enough that when the snow melts, the water travels away from the blower. I think I've had it around 12 years now and other than the year I left cheap gas in it and gummed up the carb, it runs and works great. I run premium in it now and let the tank run down towards the end of the season, and dump some seafoam in it. Every fall its 2 pulls to start it or I plug it in and just tickle the starter
Thanks for sharing larommi!
My Toro Power Shift 1132 from 1993 has served me well for the past 29 years. I changed a pulley once and the oil every year or two. Nothing else! Still has the original spark plug. Worked perfectly until last year when I started to have issues with the Power Shift (lever, gate, latches). The other day, the transmission grenaded
The machine was blown off with compressed air after every use, and then stored in the garage. I've never sprayed anything on it and it is still 99.9% rust free. Decided on a new machine (Ariens Pro 28 Hydro). Now I have to figure out how to dispose of the Toro. For about $400 I could get a replacement transmission, but after 29 years, who doesn't want a new machine?!?!
Wow $400 holy smokes! Thanks for sharing andy!
Find a non running one for the parts.
Good tips! I prop my Ariens Deluxe 30" up on a piece of wood. My garage never gets too cold. But I'll lubricate it now for sure. I let it run dry after every season. And I only use premium gas! It runs so much better
Thanks for sharing Jim!
91 grade gasoline is the key. No ethanol.
Not sure if Premium grade is ethanol free…
Great video, thanks for putting this up! I do all of the steps you mentioned, however, I never thought of the wooden blocks, the space heater and the spraying of the lubricant as you showed us here. Excellent tips and I will definitely be adding those steps at the end of every use. Subscribed as well! Thanks, again!
ROCK ON Michael!!! Take care of your snowblower and it will take care of you! Thanks for subscribing! 👍
@@GarageGear very well said! Love my snowblower and it will love me back!
I do all that you recommend except for two things:
I don't let the engine cool down for 30 seconds on low throttle but will do so from now on.
Second, i try to brush all of the snow from the auger but will try the small heater in front.
Great tips, thanks!
Melt that snow my friend! No belt issues that way guaranteed! Thanks for being a cool fan of the channel!
My snowblowers are relatively new and I normally have them serviced every year. I didn't this year because I had to use a snow service the past couple years due to physical issues. Even with a service I sometimes have to do a little clean-up if the town plows after my service has been here. Unfortunately, they run great when the temps are around 30 or more - they start on the first pull. But when the temps drop to the 20's or below they just won't start. They were last serviced 2 years ago. Any ideas on what is going on?
Hey Tom, are you using ethanol free gas in them? Are you also draining the gas in the spring? Thanks for watching!
Just changed out my dad's Arien belts on his new (less than 6 clearings old) blower from seized auger due to icing. If you hold auger engagement and pull start handle before trying to start it will pull if clear and not if iced up. 58 bucks for 2 belts and the hassle of changing them is a lesson learned for him and he's a veteran of many years clearing snow with blowers...guess it was just luck that it hasn't gotten him before. I told him to put an incandescent bulb in there to heat it up, but that little heater for 30 or on a timer would do a better job and he has one so I'll pass it on. Thanks!
Lesson learned my friend, Right?
@@GarageGear yeah, a cheap one for me, not so much my dad. I had contemplated putting heat on my blower after I was having some shuddering this last snow fall which I attributed to the excess of ice between the impeller and housing. I put the torpedo heater on it though and melted it. Mine was still turning, but knew it was causing the problem. It probably would have done the same to mine had I not taken the time to melt it down that day.
@@13612 thanks for sharing this
also, run your space heater on "fan" mode (not heat) for a few minutes before you turn it off. It will save your heater coils.
@@defan2105 thanks for sharing
Good tip with the space heater. Protective spray is great too. I use Crown Rust control on my Yamaha
That’s great stuff! It’s creeps well into spots! Awesome my friend! Thanks for sharing George!
Krown is the best product on the market.
I’ve had my snowblower for over 25 years and never did any of your suggestions. I never had a problem. I change my oil as recommended by the manufacturer, oil and line it also as recommended and keep it clean. That’s it.
Thanks for sharing
This video is hilarious. Right there with you.
@@radian2323 thanks for watching
Good for you, like the guy who never wore seat belts and is still alive today. Garage Gear recommends oil changes as per mfrs recommendations , so you DO follow at least one of his suggestions. Greasing the shafts is to ensure that the bolts will shear before the gearbox is destroyed. Your shafts may be rusted solid but you never yet encountered a condition where a shear bolt would have sheared.
@@RSole9999 what’s up with you?
What’s the connection with seat belts? That’s the dumbest thing I’ve seen yet.
I mentioned I change my and lube regularly, as well as clean, - not at GG’s suggestion - because the mfg suggested it.
I thought GG was a windbag, but you surely outdid him.
Nice job
Here’s my problem : I finished running the system dry after turning the fuel valve. After the snowless winter we have seen this winter it was about 6 week before the next snowfall. With stabilized fuel, I thought it would be ok. Unfortunately that was not the case. Took the carb off & did a full inspection & cleaning. So I drained the tank. Add fresh gas & stabilizer. Still no luck. After many attempts to start, unburnt fuel was dripping from the exhaust. Pulled the plug, blew it off & checked the gap( .028”). The plug wouldn’t spark. What spark plug would be a good replacement?
I would match your spark plug up at your local hardware store with the new one. No specific brand. Hope it is good to go after that.
@@GarageGear I tested for spark with another plug I had. Got a good spark. Replaced the plug with the proper NGK replacement. Fired right up!👍
@@rickmuir7616 Greta to hear!
I have never had a 2 stage but I have a Simplicity single stage for around 10 years. After I'm done snow blowing that thing goes into the unheated garage and I go inside drink a beer or 2. This is the first year I changed the oil in it. First year I changed the paddles, scraper bar and drive belt. End of winter storage stabil only with non ethanol gas and never run the carb dry. It should have blown up years ago but runs like new still.
Thanks for sharing Delbert!
And don't forget to use gas stabilizer when you're filling you fuel canister. This way it helps keep the gas as fresh as possible - in case there are longer periods of time between major snow storms. It also helps keep the fuel lines and carburetor clean of gum buildup (from old gas). At the end of the season empty out the gas tank, then run the snowblower until it starves from no gas. This will ensure the least amount of gas remains in the lines (and fuel filter). Then next season get new fresh fuel, add gas stabilizer, fuel up the snowblower, prime it according to your model's instructions, spray a little starter fluid into the carburetor - and watch that baby turn on with one pull (maybe two - that's still good). I recommend turning it on at least two weeks before your snow season typically starts. This way if there is something wrong, you have enough time to fix it (order parts, or have it services at the shop).
I agree test it a few weeks prior to make sure it runs before the season. Thanks for watching!
The biggest issue I have is not being able to drain the old gasoline from the tank. I am thinking to cut the fuel line and add an (accessible) drain valve.
@@normferguson2769 that’s a good plan!
This is the comment I`ve been looking for. When I get my snowblower back from the repair shop in a few weeks I will follow these instructions. 🙏
@@normferguson2769 I have used a turkey baster to get some gas out of the tank. (Don't borrow one from your kitchen). It gets down into the gas tank. Does drip some when removing from the tank; then wipe it off with a paper towel or rag. Keep in mind there is some gas in the rag. My lawn- mower takes the same Ethanol Free gas so it's "fresh." Novelty of snow wears off after the 1st 4 feet, however. Am in Erie, PA.
One additional thing that I have always done is to shut down by turning off the fuel rather than ignition. Keeps the plug and carb cleaner. Starts first or second pull every time!
Thanks for sharing
STARVE...THAT...CARB!!! This is the most useful tip for anything with a carb.
@@davidspoelstra8527 thanks for sharing
Great advice on the heater. I have a detached garage and usually always clean the snow off- except the other day. Yesterday the ice in the impeller prevented operation. Have a Toro which has a clutch disc instead of belt. I used de-icer solution which cleared it in about 10 minutes.
Not a bad solution to that problem. Thanks for sharing!
Lots of good ideas and thank you for an informative video. A couple of recommendations having lived in Maryland for several decades where we do not get snow on a regular basis. Firstly check your air pressure and your tires and make sure they are as inflated to the recommended level of air pressure. Secondly, I always drain my gas tank and drop the carburetor Bowl to make sure it is completely empty of gas. I perform this task because I don't know when we will get our next snow. I leave the gas cap off and I shove a rag into the filler nozzle of the gas tank because I don't want condensation building up inside. So I would add these items to your next video version. Thanks again for your suggestions they're very helpful and take care.
All good information here Frankie! Thanks for watching and sharing!
Hi From Snowy Canada. Good tips, in particular cleaning out the snow blower to avoid broken belts when trying to start a frozen auger. (Don't ask me how I know) I don't like the idea of using a space heater, if only because my unheated garage would take forever to heat and melt the snow in the machine. So what I do is to use a very large toilet bowl cleaning brush to remove the snow from the auger and blades and once done I have a spray bottle filled with windshield whipper solution (good to -40) and I then spray all the areas I cannot reach. When next time I need to run the blower, the snow it gone.
Thanks for sharing and watching
WD40 is available in gallon cans also. I prefer using the liquid WD40 in a heavy duty spray bottle instead of aerosol cans. My aerosol cans always seem to have propellant issues because my garage is unheated.:( WD40 also works great on snow shovels & snow pushers.
I’ve been considering this for a long time. Might be taking you up on this idea. Thanks for sharing Larry!
Try Fluid Film. It works way better than WD-40 and it doesn't wear off nearly as fast. I swear by that stuff.
I’m smiling here. My Mom taught me to slow the machine for a bit before turning it off, brush it off, and set it on a mat over 40 yrs ago!! She was a widow, and she and I did a ton of projects together!!
Thanks for sharing Pat!
Another way to keep snow off and surfaces slick, is to use furniture polish on the inside of the chute and exterior of the snow blower. Cheap and it works great.
Thanks for sharing!
Car wax is good for protecting your snowblower.
@@dotarsojat7725 yep that works too!
I bought a Ariens deluxe 24. When assembling it, when I got to installing the Chute (two bolts) I noticed the chute is not completely sitting on the snowblower, there is like a 1/8th gap and it wiggles. The bolts that attach teh chute Tower to the blower do not have any adjustements and only have one position. The chute tower came asembled with the cable and all so I don't know. I'm wondering if there would be a assembly issue at the factory. I don't know how this is possible. Or is normal that it wiggles a bit?
@@PANICiii I have seen some wiggle a bit. Perhaps you could widen the holes and position it better?
So, mine didn’t come with a fuel shut off valve. I am adding one. But can’t decide which to choose but one that won’t rust (preferably metal) or a cheapie Plastic to prevent rust issue but may have more tendency to leak. I’m thinking of getting many plastic cheapies and then switching them out. Do most OEM have plastic valve shut off, are there any with metal oem?
Great tips to prevent maintenance issues. I will be heeding all your advice.
Hey Jennifer, I’ve used both with no leaks. It will be many years before they start to leak if they even do for the plastic ones. Get 2-3 and swap them if necessary. Can’t go wrong. Thanks for watching Jennifer! 👍
I do all of these steps and learned that when you spray WD40 or Rust Check, be sure to avoid the little openings that go to your friction disk inside. it will cause it to slip and cause no end of grief. Great vid!
Great tip here! Thanks for sharing Chris!
Great tips. One variation on the heat theme; I have, in the past, used a magnetic 120V block heater and attached it to the bottom of the belt drive housing to melt the snow/ice buildup.
Great idea Martin! Thanks for sharing! 👍
My heated garage takes care of the melting and I use a leaf blower and/or compressed air to dry it off. I also generously spray PAM on all the snow contact areas which has greatly reduced clogging especially with wetter/heavier snow.
I would love to have a fully heated garage! Thanks for watching!
Some useful ideas but to be honest I've never done any of these things with my snowblower except brushing the snow off and digging away any build up around the impeller. Yes I have burned out one or two drive belts but that was more from grinding up ice chunks left by the municipal snow plow. My Snow blower is over 35 years old and still going strong without all the babying. It stays in my unheated garage when it isn't in use. Once or twice I've used a heater to unfreeze the starter worm gear that got stuck a few times but hey it is 35 years old too.
Thanks for sharing Dave!
I've got a 16 year old Craftsman 24" that gets a hot supper every time she's used. I replaced the belts last year and serviced the carb. Still runs like a top every time I start it. It starts so easy I don't even use the electric start.
My garage stays around 40F all winter so the snow melts off quite easy. I have a floor drain - so all the moisture goes yonder.
No throttle on mine, nor do I understand why there would be one. When would you ever run a snow blower not on full power?
I let mine idle for about 3 minutes before I shut it down.
And perhaps the most important tip - don't use Ethanol gas. It attracts moisture and if you have a light winter then that gas is sitting in the tank just sucking up the moisture in the air.
I only run non-ethanol gas - in most cases that's premium. Yep, I run premium in my blower and my mower. Ethanol gas is fine in a car that gets a regular refresh of fuel. But small engines that often sit unused and are used on a regular but stretched schedule are just looking for trouble with ethanol.
Don't even mention fuel stabilizers. Keep fuel in a can and only fill what you need. If it sits for more than 30 days - put it in the car.
All great tips here! Thanks for sharing my friend!
Really....
When I'm finished blowing I always brush off the snow, bring the unit into the shop, completely disassemble the augers and differential, I scrape off the gasket and clean with laser blades. I then remove the engine and tear down to check the end play of the crank, valve clearance and verify the boost the twin turbos are putting out. I always replace the friction drive disc no longer than 38 minutes of use. Of course i remove the now cold air from both tires and refill them with 64° - 76°F Argon. I then verify the TPS system has proper wifi Bluetooth connectivity and chart psi variation. OK, now the gas. I always drain the tank after each use and insert a bore scope to ensure I have no mouse infestation or hunks of ice inside, yes I have bad dreams about ice in da tank. Now I bring out a crimson red Ugg blanket and gently drape it over da machine, turn on some Neil Diamond and go have a beer.
Again, really!
Haha this is awesome! Thanks for sharing Paul lol! 👍
I do all that, plus give it a kiss, and a cuddle.
@@georgerenton965 haha lol me too 😂👍
@@GarageGear I just clean off excess snow, lol.
Too funny.
I once had a guy claim that I was doing half assed by just draining motorcycle front forks and refilling the fork oil to the proper level once a riding season. He claimed that by doing so, that I was leaving all that wear material in there and accelerating wear!
LOL
His idea seemed to be that you should instead spend hours completely disassembling and meticulously cleaning and reassemble. Great, but most are only going to do that when fork seals start leaking. So probably 20K miles each time with that particulate staying in there all that time each time. Anyway. Kind of like arguing that changing your oil is terrible practice, that you should fully remove and disassemble your engine each time. SMH
For those that can't store their snowblower where it's above freezing, after shutdown I always move the throttle to the 3/4 position. That way if the throttle handle or cable gets frozen in place in the OFF position your snowblower will still start.
Good tip! Thanks for sharing George!
what sucks is that the new Ariens snowblowers do NOT come with a throttle. They only run at high speed all the time.
The deluxe models and up have it!
Yep. My brand new Compact 24, still ready for it's first-ever use in suburban Chicago, has only full-blast throttle which I wasn't happy about. But then I reasoned that I never throttled down my former 25-year-old Craftsman except to pause to call out to a family member doing another task, or put it down to idle when breaking up some chunks at the end of the driveway. But that's only because I could not pull-start the old 9-hp Tecumseh motor so I had to keep it running at slow speed. The new Ariens is easier to pull start out away from the outlet in the garage so I will just stop the motor when I don't want it hammering away full-tilt. We shall see!
I know it is not a lot of lube but I dont like the idea of throwing WD40 around my yard. yeah yeah I know... my vehicles leak more than throwing some snow thru the chute... but every little bit counts. I thought of cooking spray this year... so may give it a try on a new Toro I just purchased to see if it will help on heavy wet snow. I never have done any of those things other than store it inside and have not had any issues. Have had yard machine and Ariens. Yard machine was only replaced because I got my hands on a much larger Ariens. The Ariens was a used unit from a townhouse complex and thus had a hard life. It decided not to start this year... I believe no spark. So instead of spending a weekend trying to figure it out I just purchased a brand new Toro. Anyway seems like solid advice... I just have not done most of them 🙂
Thanks for sharing and watching!
I use a kids plastic sled to put the front into to melt down the snow in the auger area. Then just dump it. Its a lot easier than a mat and it will never run over. And use an old comforter over the
chute covering the auger-impeller area with a timer on the heater works a lot faster that the heat just escaping. I have the same snowblower for 22 years now. Never had a repair past sheer pins.
These are awesome ideas Ted! Thank you for sharing these! 👍👍
@@GarageGear If I could offer another suggestion, install the rubber pieces on the impeller that remove the space between the auger and housing. There are many kits on Amazon. Your snow blower will throw 50%
farther and you can also walk right through the slush at the end of the driveway. I do my neighbors aprons as here they use a lot of salt and plow 3 times with each snow. Most annoying. Thanks for sharing to help others maintain equipment.
My favorite tip from this one is the cool down. Im gonna do this with my rider from now on. Thanks!
It’s a nice way to ease it back down. I do it with just about every engine if possible. I know I can hear the engine saying, “thanks” lol
@@GarageGear 😂😂😂
The tips are good overall, but this one is a miss. Air-cooled engines don’t typically need a cooldown, as there is no coolant to keep circulating with an idling engine.
If it was run hard in the past couple minutes, you’re better off letting it run full speed with no load for a minute before shutting it off, as the fan also slows down with the engine.
@@jeffscott1543 thanks for sharing Jeff! Appreciate it!
th-cam.com/video/orqoU-xbC_0/w-d-xo.html
Very helpful tips, J.B. I own the same Ariens snowblower and I am certainly guilty of just turning off the machine when I'm done with my driveway. I definitley have those rustmarks on my garage floor. I will try the space heater and WD-40 spray trick.
Give ‘em a go Chris! Thanks for watching! 👍
"If you're feeling the vibe and you want to be part of the tribe, subscribe" - Ok that is a great slogan and I instantly subscribed based on that alone. Love it. Good video too, thank you!
Haha came up with that last spring! Welcome to the garage gear tribe my friend! Thanks for watching John!👍
I am in Montreal, which I think is two days drive from your location. Your message travels far. And just so you know, not all products you recommend are available here.
I have a question. Six months ago, I put the 91 octane gas for the snowblower into a plastic canister. The can was under a tarp with the snowblower. I am now unwrapping the tarp and snowblower.
a) Should I just empty the canister into the car gas tank to mix with the other, or is the canister gas still good. The canister has never been above room temperature.
I read elsewhere that it is OK to mix old 91gas with the current 87octaine that is sold locally for the car.
However, it is a pain to buy 91 gas, because I don't know how much is in the gas-station pump plumbing and the hoses to the valve, before it reaches my canister.
I thought to select and take the first two 2 gallons of 91 gas directly to the car, then filling the canister with, hopefully, what is 91gas, and then complete the fill of the car by switching back to 87octaine gas. No station around here has a separate pump exclusively for 91octane.
I found this information on the Honda website. The same rule would apply to other gas powered snowblower machines.
powerequipment.honda.com/snowblowers/fuel-recommendations
Follow These Five Steps to Prevent Most Fuel-Related Problems
=======================================================
Do not use gasoline containing more than 10% ethanol in your Honda snow blower.
Gasoline containing higher levels of ethanol is corrosive and attracts water, which can cause starting or running problems or, in some cases, damage to your snowblower's fuel system.
Store your gasoline in a clean, plastic, sealed container approved for gasoline storage. Close the vent (if equipped) when not in use, and store the container away from direct sunlight. If it takes more than 3 months to consume the fuel in the container, we suggest adding a fuel stabilizer to the fuel when you fill the container.
A clean, plastic container approved for fuel storage will help prevent rust and metallic contaminants from entering the fuel system. Gasoline will deteriorate faster when exposed to air and sunlight.
When you're finished using your snow blower (during the season), turn the fuel valve OFF, then start the engine and allow it to run until the engine runs out of fuel. Fill the fuel tank immediately after use to minimize air in the tank. If the fuel tank is partially filled, air in the tank can promote fuel deterioration.
If snowfall in your area is sporadic, resulting in infrequent use over the winter, we suggest adding a fuel stabilizer to the fuel when you first fill your fuel storage container at the start of the season and at each subsequent refill. See below for additional information.
Untreated gasoline left in the snow blower's fuel system can deteriorate quickly, causing starting or running problems and, in some cases, damage to the fuel system. By ensuring that all fuel put in your snow blower is stabilized, you can minimize the chances of deterioration and damage.
Off-season or summer storage: Fuel should be removed from your snow blower or snowthrower for off-season or summer storage.
See below for more information.
Gasoline left in the snow blower's fuel system during the off-season will deteriorate, causing starting or running problems and, in some cases, damage to the fuel system.
For protection of the blower, at end of season, it is best to fully drain the snowblower gas tank. Use fresh gas for the next season.
Good tips here Leslie! Thanks for the heads up on the links not working for you! I’ll see why I can do on my end! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the awesome videos! As a new owner of a Honda track drive snowblower, I found this super helpful, especially with all the snow we’ve been getting here in Silverthorne, Colorado this year. Great tips for keeping it running smoothly! Quick question: since my garage is heated, do I still need to use a heater on the machine after use? Thanks again for sharing your expertise!
@@lauriemazer4063 hey Laurie! Congrats on your snowblower purchase. If your garage is heated I wouldn’t worry about it unless you had a lot of snow/ice built up on it and need it off in a hurry before you used it again (next day)! Thanks for following along! 👍
I use RainX inside the augers housing and chute, it puts down a slippery coat that snow will not stick to. It's also cheaper with more in the spray bottle.
Thanks for sharing stephen!
Unfortunately my blower doesn't have a throttle lever but that's still a good idea. Definitely like the heater and WD 40 ideas also.
The heater is a big help melting the snow away and spraying down the machine helps prevent all that clogging! Give it a shot. You won’t be disappointed! 👍
I always spray wd40 all over the auger and impeller before I use it and my snowblower is over 10 years old with no rust Great tips I will use. Thanks
Awesome my friend! It’s a great way to keep the whole thing in shape! Thanks for watching Richard!
WD40 will displace the water (what WD Stan’s for) but it will completely dissipate… use fluid film,,, it lasts, is tenacious, seals scratches from rust, and keeps snow from sticking… what they use to spray under cars to protect from rust up here in snow country.
@@richiethesee thanks for sharing!
Excellent !! I do everything up to the 2x4's, but never thought of the space heater or spray. I got the Ariens 30 Platinum SHO after we had 2 big winters. We share a 4 house drive way and the guy that had a blower moved so I bought one. I've used it 3 times in 4 years. LOL But it's great when I do use it and tips like this are perfect for my situation. Thank you !!
Hey Mur! Follow these tips and your snowblower will most definitely last! Take care of it and it will take care of you! 👍
Another awesome video!! Didn't think about it. Got my new snowblower few months ago and have used it twice. Never did i do any of these tips. After use just moved it into the garage and let it melt completely. Will take these tips to my grave bud, haha!!!
Question - can i use wd40 inside the auger compartment and the outside? If i use wd40 on the outside should i wipe it down or leave it as is? Thanks
Spray it all over inside and out! It will protect it well as is. Thanks again for watching!
The silicone spray truck is also useful on the underside of your lawnmower deck to keep grass from clumping. Especially helpful on the rear chute outlet if you use a bagger.
Thanks for sharing peace!
I wish I knew this stuff years ago but better late than never! Thank you for the straightforward lessons and helpful visuals! The snowpile at the end of the driveway is the worst!
Those plow piles are insane! Appreciate the positive feedback Avalon! Thanks for being a cool fan my friend!
Great job and always enthusiastic the way you explain things. I will follow exactly as you say so I can last my snowblower long. Keep up the great work man!
Give these tips a shot and your snowblower will last a long time my friend! Thanks for being an awesome fan Zahed!
@@GarageGear np and will do
I recently used my machine and had to go inside mid-job. I left it outside knowing I’d be right back…. Well I got sidetracked and it was still snowing. When I got back out there was ice and snow on it. No big deal except, at that very moment, the drive wheels stopped working. Can’t be a coincidence.
Now I have to figure out why.
I am drying it off now to see if that helps.
I don’t think it’s a shear pin because when I push it I can still hear the gears turning
Hey Jack, your sheer pins are for your gauges only. Are your augers having trouble spinning or is it your drive wheels?
@@GarageGear
Strangest thing:
I brought it in the garage and let everything dry off and the drive wheels work again.
Reverse is a little spotty… the wheels sort of buck as they turn (they have done that all year).
I am guessing the friction disc is getting bad, but hasn’t completely crapped out yet????
It’d be nice if I can get her through winter and fix it (or take it somewhere to get fixed) in the off-season.
@@minnesotajack1 yeah it sounds like your friction disc is the issue. Especially if it gets jumpy or it’s missing a gear. I would give it a look! 👍