I have used this technique with some great outcomes. I also use it to mimic a Landau Roof Top. Instead of flocking over a sheet of paper, I have use a zip-loc baggie. The powder slides effortlessly, much better than with the paper in my opinoin
I'm doing my first attempt at flocking carpet, but I'm using PVA glue instead of paying and it's working quite well. I used a small makeup sponge (the one that is like a cotton bud) to press the clicking down a bit and it did a good job without losing too hard. I had to go over it again with a bit more glue and flocking once it was dry as I didn't get quite enough on, plus I did red flocking over the floor that i had already painted black and the black was a bit too visible. I wasn't going to do carpet originally, but decided to give it a go after I had completed the interior, so I had to pull the seats out. The red carpet should compliment the pearl red that I will be painting the body.
Awesome. I've heard of guys using PVA with a little water added to it to thin it out. I've always used a clear paint or a color matched enamel. Glad it worked for you.
@@JHartModelworks I used the glue full strength, but I might try it watered down next time. I'd try your method but paint costs too much in New Zealand, and I don't want to keep a bottle specifically for every colour of carpet that I do. I guess it would be easy enough to decant off enough for each job though, so I might give it a try sometime.
@@davidorr6627 I completely get it. I've been using some semi gloss clear (mostly because I moved away from Tamiya acrylics and had nothing else to do with it at the time. It works fairly well. But I've been giving thought to the watered down PVA as well, as I don't want to keep buying paint specifically for flocking.
Great job. I've also taken 3x5 index card and cut a pattern matching the area to be carpeted. As this becomes your pattern you only need to do one side. Then using Evergreen PLAIN polystyrene sheet #9010, .010" thickness tape your pattern down and cut out the pattern. Check and double-check fit. Now spray a good level wet coat that matches (or closely to matches) the color of the flock and quickly cover the newly sprayed carpet piece with flock applied with the strainer. Try really 'dumping' it on. Don't shake it off yet but placing an index card over the flocked piece and firmly press. Wait. Wait. Now shake off the excess flock on to the piece of paper as shown in the tutorial to recover. Lightly, using a soft brush, brush off the finished piece. Note how chrisp the edges are and once completely dry glue into place. You can do door panels in the same way. Now flip your index pattern over for the other side and repeat. If you screw up, either wipe off the piece or cut a new one. Saves messing up your painted interior. It's like an insurance policy on what you've got finished. Some areas can be a small challenge like transmission humps so you'll need to use the suggested method in this tutorial. I'd still do the flat areas using a pattern.Tape off all areas leaving only the transmission hump exposed, spray, 'dump' the flock, press and shake the excess off. Brush. Taping will take a little time but the results are well worth it. Been modeling since the early '70's!
Thanks. I've used elmers before. I've also used Tamiya acrylics semi-gloss and gloss with similar results. The old model masters enamels are pretty much gone since rustoleum shot the line down, and that pretty much leaves just the small testors bottles here in the states that I know of. So that elmers may still be handy.
PVA or Elmers Glue thinned 25% with a drop of flow improver to break surface tension works well, you can tint it to with some acrylic of a similar colour (I use it to make terrain)
Hey Justin, that’s pretty much the exact same way that I flock too. I even do the same paper trick & I have the same tea strainer & I tap my fingers on the strainer too. Only I recently switched to Elmers white glue however I did use to use enamel paint as well..... have a great weekend man
I'm pretty good at just brushing around them, so I don't bother masking them. I've used white glue, Enamel paint, and even Tamiya semi gloss paint with good results. I've been using the Tamiya lately. Thanks for watching!
@@JHartModelworks I’m pretty poor at accurate brushing, that’s why I have to mask! It’s a similar reason as to why I use white glue, it’s far easier to hide my mistakes that way😃
Hi Charles. I got mine from www.modelcargarage.com, they have every color i could think of. www.scaleproduction.de/ also has a great selection of flocking as well. Might be a better choice if you are in Europe.
A lot of people use embossing powder as it gives a finer surface. On camera you are looking at the surface very close and outside of the actual car. I personally find that when looking at the interior with the naked eye and farther away, the flocking gives enough surface that you can make out the detail, especially in a hard top car where the interior can be quite dark. Everyone has their own opinion, and using embossing powder in the same way might be better suited to your taste. Thanks for watching and for the comment.
I have used this technique with some great outcomes. I also use it to mimic a Landau Roof Top. Instead of flocking over a sheet of paper, I have use a zip-loc baggie. The powder slides effortlessly, much better than with the paper in my opinoin
Awesome, That's a cool tip. I'll have to give that a try. Thanks! And thanks for watching.
Clear and concise! Thanks.
Welcome to the channel, Glad you liked it!
Nice tutorial, flock adds a lot to a scale model car interior. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you Damon
Great tutorial! I can see myself coming back to this when I do another car. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it. Hope it helps.
Great tutorial.
Thank you Michael
That looks pretty flocking real.
Thanks
cool video an great tips
Thank you Duke!
Looks great
Thanks Chuck!
I'm doing my first attempt at flocking carpet, but I'm using PVA glue instead of paying and it's working quite well. I used a small makeup sponge (the one that is like a cotton bud) to press the clicking down a bit and it did a good job without losing too hard. I had to go over it again with a bit more glue and flocking once it was dry as I didn't get quite enough on, plus I did red flocking over the floor that i had already painted black and the black was a bit too visible. I wasn't going to do carpet originally, but decided to give it a go after I had completed the interior, so I had to pull the seats out. The red carpet should compliment the pearl red that I will be painting the body.
Awesome. I've heard of guys using PVA with a little water added to it to thin it out. I've always used a clear paint or a color matched enamel. Glad it worked for you.
@@JHartModelworks I used the glue full strength, but I might try it watered down next time. I'd try your method but paint costs too much in New Zealand, and I don't want to keep a bottle specifically for every colour of carpet that I do. I guess it would be easy enough to decant off enough for each job though, so I might give it a try sometime.
@@davidorr6627 I completely get it. I've been using some semi gloss clear (mostly because I moved away from Tamiya acrylics and had nothing else to do with it at the time. It works fairly well. But I've been giving thought to the watered down PVA as well, as I don't want to keep buying paint specifically for flocking.
Great job. I've also taken 3x5 index card and cut a pattern matching the area to be carpeted. As this becomes your pattern you only need to do one side. Then using Evergreen PLAIN polystyrene sheet #9010, .010" thickness tape your pattern down and cut out the pattern. Check and double-check fit. Now spray a good level wet coat that matches (or closely to matches) the color of the flock and quickly cover the newly sprayed carpet piece with flock applied with the strainer. Try really 'dumping' it on. Don't shake it off yet but placing an index card over the flocked piece and firmly press. Wait. Wait. Now shake off the excess flock on to the piece of paper as shown in the tutorial to recover. Lightly, using a soft brush, brush off the finished piece. Note how chrisp the edges are and once completely dry glue into place. You can do door panels in the same way. Now flip your index pattern over for the other side and repeat. If you screw up, either wipe off the piece or cut a new one. Saves messing up your painted interior. It's like an insurance policy on what you've got finished. Some areas can be a small challenge like transmission humps so you'll need to use the suggested method in this tutorial. I'd still do the flat areas using a pattern.Tape off all areas leaving only the transmission hump exposed, spray, 'dump' the flock, press and shake the excess off. Brush. Taping will take a little time but the results are well worth it. Been modeling since the early '70's!
Thanks James. Some great tips there!
Ohh this is really cool new subscriber 👍
Thanks Haley!
Nice tutorial. I use Elmers glue instead of enamel paint when I do flocking, but I’ll certainly try enamel paint next time. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks. I've used elmers before. I've also used Tamiya acrylics semi-gloss and gloss with similar results. The old model masters enamels are pretty much gone since rustoleum shot the line down, and that pretty much leaves just the small testors bottles here in the states that I know of. So that elmers may still be handy.
PVA or Elmers Glue thinned 25% with a drop of flow improver to break surface tension works well, you can tint it to with some acrylic of a similar colour (I use it to make terrain)
Thanks, I'll give it a try next go round.
great show thank yougreat show thank you
Thank you Trevor
Hey Justin, that’s pretty much the exact same way that I flock too. I even do the same paper trick & I have the same tea strainer & I tap my fingers on the strainer too. Only I recently switched to Elmers white glue however I did use to use enamel paint as well..... have a great weekend man
Elmer's seemed a bit thick to me. Then again, my bottle is a bit old. Maybe I need to try again with a new bottle.
Great video I got the same strainer from amazon have not used it yet. Flocking hard to come by.
www.modelcargarage.com has any color you could possibly imagine.
I mask off the seat mounting points, door cards etc and the use a white glue instead of paint as the adhesive
I'm pretty good at just brushing around them, so I don't bother masking them. I've used white glue, Enamel paint, and even Tamiya semi gloss paint with good results. I've been using the Tamiya lately. Thanks for watching!
@@JHartModelworks I’m pretty poor at accurate brushing, that’s why I have to mask! It’s a similar reason as to why I use white glue, it’s far easier to hide my mistakes that way😃
Where do you buy the flocking?
Hi Charles. I got mine from www.modelcargarage.com, they have every color i could think of. www.scaleproduction.de/ also has a great selection of flocking as well. Might be a better choice if you are in Europe.
Good idea....................But, it's way too thick. It looks like a super heavy shag rug and not like a carpet. Does not look realistic.
A lot of people use embossing powder as it gives a finer surface. On camera you are looking at the surface very close and outside of the actual car. I personally find that when looking at the interior with the naked eye and farther away, the flocking gives enough surface that you can make out the detail, especially in a hard top car where the interior can be quite dark.
Everyone has their own opinion, and using embossing powder in the same way might be better suited to your taste.
Thanks for watching and for the comment.
@@JHartModelworks Agree.
Note sure why but this comment just showed up today like a month later. Very strange.