Vase mode is also very good for making light weight parts, where you model your part, (mostly used for wings) and then do cutouts inside the part to from internal ribbing, joining the cutouts with a thin gap, usually 0.1mm-ish so the slicer picks it up but its so close the plastic fuses together when printing, creating a nice part with no stringing, shorter print times at the expense of more time spend in CAD.
Increasing the line width is a phenomenal tool to boost strength of vase mode parts without having to increase the nozzle size, but doing both adds even more strength - I still have some of my test prints from when I put a 1 mm nozzle on my Sidewinder X1 and printed with a 2 mm line width...the finished product felt as strong as a non-vase mode print with a normal amount of infill.
Thanks for this, a straightforward way of making vases of other shapes than circular. I'll be working my way through the other tutorials in the series with renewed interest. I've also recently started using ORCA slicer, very impressed. Suddenly my prints are staying attached to the bed until the end!
One vase mode trick that I've seen is to have the perimeter sort of flow through the model and fold back on itself with a tiny gap between, causing the lines to print right next to each other and create a thicker wall to give some strength and structure. Phone wedge (vase mode) by Catdad Workshop on Printables is where I first saw this. I tried it myself recently on a somewhat large model to save time and filament, and was mostly successful. Would be great to see what others have done with it
Top tier work! I'm a Blender guy and this makes me jealous, i think some of this would be a nightmare in blender, mostly because merging complex shapes often goes awry, and putting fillets/bevels on complex shapes is also a no-go.
As someone that has been using blender for a while, it's definitely a different use case. When doing parametric solid modeling, it's a completely different mindset to doing mesh based modeling. There are some add-ons for blender that allow you to do parametric modeling in blender, but at the end of the day it's a bit of a compromise situation, and it's usually best to just go with the dedicated tool like on shape or Fusion 360
I've graduated to using Blender for making vases. Geometry nodes and Sverchok nodes can still allow you to do things in a non-destructive way but also gain the freedom and ease of making organic shapes without the limitations of parametric CAD modelers.
The mouth of doom looks really interesting, when you look at it vertically it looks like a vase but when you look at it horizontally it looks like a vase holding a bowl, it’s tricky but with tree support to close the bottom part of the bowl and it can be use to hold keys,loose change,snacks..etc😅 but vase mode won’t let it I believe, maybe adding a bowl separately on top the vase would hold
Fantastic video Michael. A great start for complex looking 'trial and error' vase mode design. I've done a few using transparent filament that are ideal for orchid plant pot enclosers ... which need to allow light into the roots. Happy New Year Michael.
Michael hello, wish you great holidays! 2 things: When you sketch the hex sweep on the last example, you sketch flat on the bottom. Nothing wrong but if you want the section to be an exact shape (Imagine to tightly fit a 1.75mm circle section by drawing it 1.95mm, circular not even slightly ellipsoidal) then you might want to draw it on a plane which is perpendicular to the sweep track. And I managed to, but it's not so intuitive even in Fusion 360. Plus, this is picky tho, I'd like to know how to _exactly_ mark an equidistant helix path on oddly shaped objects. As it's obvious the step distances of the helix on a convex surface they increase as you get far from the "equator", and this in one of the last examples translates in unwanted but unavoidable patterns in the repetitions of the shapes you copypaste along the helixes tracks. They looked to me so much like the misprinting surface artifacts we try to avoid in any way, that when I experimented with this it took a lot of tweaking to turn it out convincent to my eye.
we're going to bendigo? to get me cube? if you get the reference. sorry i had to. another great video. surprised less views and comments on this one. imo vase mode could be a really great way to make various items or products efficiently with less plastic whilst still having the potential for visual attractiveness and strength especially if we use things like PETG printed at the higher end of the temp range so it really fuses together like one piece of plastic ( for example using cnc kitchen/rygar advice for "printing glass")... not to mention its fun to make your brain try and think of how to make a functional thing using a single continuous line.
Thanks for another great video! I printed those exact decorations & wondered how they were done. I have decent experience at SW but the tapering vase parts are so far removed from "normal" parts, i didn't know where to begin with drawing them. Happy holidays!
The interesting thing also is the "trilemma" between layer thickness, size and resolution. Usually it's a very easy compromise depending from the object's function/shape. But as you increase size you will have to scale layer thickness to have comparable strenght, losing resolution therefore. As you decide your model needs lot of resolution for surface details, you will have to step down layer thickness, losing strenght unless you scale down the object, which would tend to decrease the resolution you achieved scaling down the thickness and oh Lord I could go on for hours. Ok, in the end you always have a margin of decision based on the object's characteristics, as said. But it's an interesting aspect you don't have to mind in normal slicing, where strenght is made by perimeters and infill.
In Fusion 360 you can do a split body selecting the top and bottom faces to flatten out the top and bottom instead of extruding rectangles. Is there anything like this is OnShape?
Happy Holidays Michael. If you are also able to explain the creation of your designs in Fusion 360, this would be appreciated very much! Anyway thanks a lot for the good tutorial!
I am still waiting for a slicer to figure out multiple walls in vase mode. With variable layer height it should be possible to do a 2 or 3 wall thickness print, or any number up to 100% infill in a spiral. No z-seam on a stronger print would be awesome.
Is there a way to make the wall/skin thicker. I did test model and once it had cooled sufficient and took it off the build plate it cracked about an inch at the top even didnt use hardly any pressure when holding it.
The only problem with vase mode right now though is the cursced vase mode "seam"... thanks to how it's currently calculated. Not an issue with perfectly straight vertical walls but an annoying one when it involves sloped or organic geometry... especially visible when printing with big nozzles and high layer heights
This is not a problem in Cura with spiral smoothing enabled. Also OrcaSlicer released an alpha version 2 days ago that seems to fix the problem by applying similar Cura code fixes
Fyi Mike, Chris Taylor on his Nerys channel figured out Vase mode for twin wall rib reinforced structures his rockets. th-cam.com/video/deqKjcmy_wA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=VniIH434DFinuvjn. Laurie. NZ. 😊
I never could get into the "vase mode" style of printing or design. Each time I do, I really dislike the result. Sure, 1 wall makes it look neat and print faster while saving material, but it, I don't know, doesn't sit well with me. I prefer to design it solid, like normal, and then cut out the center area while keeping it manifold. Even decorative insides with a solidify modifier seem better, to me.
In England it is pronounced varse not vaze. And as he is Australian obviously uses the English pronunciation of English not the American English pronunciation.
No base is base, that's why real English is a hard language to master and lots of the same letter combinations are pronounced differently in different words.
I never thought hearing a mispronounced word repeatedly could be so annoying, I'm straining not to thumbs down I'm french, we say vase as in vahze you're not speaking French, it's vase as in phase, laze, raze - vase
@@hobbitsatplay9542 i know obviously but - I don't know why, I'm probably familiar with the sounds of over a dozen languages at this point and I'd never met another sound that felt so wrong I guess when it's part of the accept but wow, nails on a chalkboard
As I said in my other comment in English (UK) not American we say varse as does our Australian friend, the trouble is the American version vase as in phase has probably become used more popular elsewhere due to so many TH-cam videos emanating from America whereas the countries that have had immigration from the UK will use the English pronunciation.
A big flat bottom can be a problem when you have good adhesion. With only 1 wall layer you don’t want to pull the finished part by the walls, you may leave the bottom on the build plate.
![[TH] 2024 PMGC League | Survival Stage วันที่ 1 | PUBG MOBILE Global Championship](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FVFT-PFwU80/mqdefault.jpg)
that tip for creating helixes on unusual shapes is brilliant, I looked for ages to find an answer to this
Vase mode is also very good for making light weight parts, where you model your part, (mostly used for wings) and then do cutouts inside the part to from internal ribbing, joining the cutouts with a thin gap, usually 0.1mm-ish so the slicer picks it up but its so close the plastic fuses together when printing, creating a nice part with no stringing, shorter print times at the expense of more time spend in CAD.
cool idea! thanks
Increasing the line width is a phenomenal tool to boost strength of vase mode parts without having to increase the nozzle size, but doing both adds even more strength - I still have some of my test prints from when I put a 1 mm nozzle on my Sidewinder X1 and printed with a 2 mm line width...the finished product felt as strong as a non-vase mode print with a normal amount of infill.
A brilliant understandable explanation. Many thanks and as always, a great video 👍👍
Thanks for this, a straightforward way of making vases of other shapes than circular. I'll be working my way through the other tutorials in the series with renewed interest.
I've also recently started using ORCA slicer, very impressed. Suddenly my prints are staying attached to the bed until the end!
Awesome modeling techniques thank you for finding and sharing the intersection curve technique for curved helixes.
Thanks Michael, learned a whole slew of new onshape tricks!
One vase mode trick that I've seen is to have the perimeter sort of flow through the model and fold back on itself with a tiny gap between, causing the lines to print right next to each other and create a thicker wall to give some strength and structure.
Phone wedge (vase mode) by Catdad Workshop on Printables is where I first saw this.
I tried it myself recently on a somewhat large model to save time and filament, and was mostly successful. Would be great to see what others have done with it
I can’t believe you’re just giving this information away. Thank you for this!
Top tier work! I'm a Blender guy and this makes me jealous, i think some of this would be a nightmare in blender, mostly because merging complex shapes often goes awry, and putting fillets/bevels on complex shapes is also a no-go.
As someone that has been using blender for a while, it's definitely a different use case. When doing parametric solid modeling, it's a completely different mindset to doing mesh based modeling. There are some add-ons for blender that allow you to do parametric modeling in blender, but at the end of the day it's a bit of a compromise situation, and it's usually best to just go with the dedicated tool like on shape or Fusion 360
Awesome! Thanks, just what I was looking for!
Thank you for making these tutorials. I have learned so much about CAD and 3D printing.
Thanks a bunch for the tutorial, Michael! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
And happy holidays!
Would love a tutorial on how to create the first model you shown in the introduction. The silver parametric cube vase.
This is a great video. I think I'll just drive in and go for it, making mistakes but learning as i go
Excellent video Michael.
I've graduated to using Blender for making vases. Geometry nodes and Sverchok nodes can still allow you to do things in a non-destructive way but also gain the freedom and ease of making organic shapes without the limitations of parametric CAD modelers.
Great video as always. I look forward to each time you release a new one and I always seem to learn something. Thanks.
Awesome video, Thank you.
Great Tutorial, thanks for sharing ❤❤
The mouth of doom looks really interesting, when you look at it vertically it looks like a vase but when you look at it horizontally it looks like a vase holding a bowl, it’s tricky but with tree support to close the bottom part of the bowl and it can be use to hold keys,loose change,snacks..etc😅 but vase mode won’t let it I believe, maybe adding a bowl separately on top the vase would hold
The last stepped bin I printed was 0.8mm on a 0.4 nozzle. Worked fine. Just mind the volumetric flow rate doesn't exceed the hotend's capacity.
Fantastic video Michael. A great start for complex looking 'trial and error' vase mode design. I've done a few using transparent filament that are ideal for orchid plant pot enclosers ... which need to allow light into the roots. Happy New Year Michael.
Excellent video! Thank you
Michael hello, wish you great holidays!
2 things: When you sketch the hex sweep on the last example, you sketch flat on the bottom. Nothing wrong but if you want the section to be an exact shape (Imagine to tightly fit a 1.75mm circle section by drawing it 1.95mm, circular not even slightly ellipsoidal) then you might want to draw it on a plane which is perpendicular to the sweep track. And I managed to, but it's not so intuitive even in Fusion 360.
Plus, this is picky tho, I'd like to know how to _exactly_ mark an equidistant helix path on oddly shaped objects. As it's obvious the step distances of the helix on a convex surface they increase as you get far from the "equator", and this in one of the last examples translates in unwanted but unavoidable patterns in the repetitions of the shapes you copypaste along the helixes tracks.
They looked to me so much like the misprinting surface artifacts we try to avoid in any way, that when I experimented with this it took a lot of tweaking to turn it out convincent to my eye.
Happy holidays!
Mind. Blown!
we're going to bendigo? to get me cube? if you get the reference. sorry i had to. another great video. surprised less views and comments on this one. imo vase mode could be a really great way to make various items or products efficiently with less plastic whilst still having the potential for visual attractiveness and strength especially if we use things like PETG printed at the higher end of the temp range so it really fuses together like one piece of plastic ( for example using cnc kitchen/rygar advice for "printing glass")...
not to mention its fun to make your brain try and think of how to make a functional thing using a single continuous line.
Thanks for another great video! I printed those exact decorations & wondered how they were done. I have decent experience at SW but the tapering vase parts are so far removed from "normal" parts, i didn't know where to begin with drawing them. Happy holidays!
The interesting thing also is the "trilemma" between layer thickness, size and resolution. Usually it's a very easy compromise depending from the object's function/shape. But as you increase size you will have to scale layer thickness to have comparable strenght, losing resolution therefore. As you decide your model needs lot of resolution for surface details, you will have to step down layer thickness, losing strenght unless you scale down the object, which would tend to decrease the resolution you achieved scaling down the thickness and oh Lord I could go on for hours.
Ok, in the end you always have a margin of decision based on the object's characteristics, as said.
But it's an interesting aspect you don't have to mind in normal slicing, where strenght is made by perimeters and infill.
In Fusion 360 you can do a split body selecting the top and bottom faces to flatten out the top and bottom instead of extruding rectangles. Is there anything like this is OnShape?
I would like to see this with Esun pla-st, it has never let me down.
great!
Don´t forget in increase line width for vase mode to 0.6 or 0.8mm
Happy Holidays Michael. If you are also able to explain the creation of your designs in Fusion 360, this would be appreciated very much! Anyway thanks a lot for the good tutorial!
Happy holidays! Sorry, but I'm a Fusion360 novice. The layout is just different enough that it really frustrates me and I stick to what I know.
@@TeachingTech thanks for feedback. I will try to figure out in fusion 360.
I am still waiting for a slicer to figure out multiple walls in vase mode. With variable layer height it should be possible to do a 2 or 3 wall thickness print, or any number up to 100% infill in a spiral. No z-seam on a stronger print would be awesome.
Happy Holidays all! Out of curiosity, why at 10:50 did you use sketches instead of using the "split" tool to cut off the edges?
How wide should the wall thickness be set for 0.6 mm or 0.8 mm nozzles? If you said 0.7 for 0.4 what can you get away with for a larger nozzles?
I have the same question, but also want to know for 1.0 mm nozzle size.
The model of the stunning lamp shade (2:11) I would find where exactly? Asking for a friend.
Is there a way to make the wall/skin thicker. I did test model and once it had cooled sufficient and took it off the build plate it cracked about an inch at the top even didnt use hardly any pressure when holding it.
I love your content. Are you using noise reduction on your audio? Sounds like a bit of noise reduction artifacts.
5:20 what filament is this?
The mouth of doom KEKW
you kinda look like laser beam not gonna lie
That’s a vas difference from how I do it.
love heart🤣
The only problem with vase mode right now though is the cursced vase mode "seam"... thanks to how it's currently calculated. Not an issue with perfectly straight vertical walls but an annoying one when it involves sloped or organic geometry... especially visible when printing with big nozzles and high layer heights
This is not a problem in Cura with spiral smoothing enabled. Also OrcaSlicer released an alpha version 2 days ago that seems to fix the problem by applying similar Cura code fixes
RC airplane designers have gone way beyond simple vases in vase mode. We design airframes that can take 20 g's of force.
That's very cool, but not everyone wants to design that. Same with vases. The idea of the series is to cover as many techniques as possible.
@@TeachingTech Exactly- double and triple wall prints in vase mode. I didn't see this in the video.
Sorry, I understand what you mean now. But how is it vase mode if it is more than one wall?
Hi, interested in seeing links for this if possible. Thanks. Laurie. NZ. To @exuma_guy
Fyi Mike, Chris Taylor on his Nerys channel figured out Vase mode for twin wall rib reinforced structures his rockets. th-cam.com/video/deqKjcmy_wA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=VniIH434DFinuvjn. Laurie. NZ. 😊
I never could get into the "vase mode" style of printing or design. Each time I do, I really dislike the result. Sure, 1 wall makes it look neat and print faster while saving material, but it, I don't know, doesn't sit well with me. I prefer to design it solid, like normal, and then cut out the center area while keeping it manifold. Even decorative insides with a solidify modifier seem better, to me.
In England it is pronounced varse not vaze. And as he is Australian obviously uses the English pronunciation of English not the American English pronunciation.
Do you pronounce base as barse (or baase) and ace as - well, let's leave it at that ☺
No base is base, that's why real English is a hard language to master and lots of the same letter combinations are pronounced differently in different words.
@@kimmotoivanendo you pronounce through and enough the same? Enough said
I never thought hearing a mispronounced word repeatedly could be so annoying, I'm straining not to thumbs down
I'm french, we say vase as in vahze
you're not speaking French, it's vase as in phase, laze, raze - vase
*differently pronounced* He didn't mispronounce anything. That is how it is spoken where he is from. It's just different from what you are used to.
@@hobbitsatplay9542 i know obviously but -
I don't know why, I'm probably familiar with the sounds of over a dozen languages at this point and I'd never met another sound that felt so wrong
I guess when it's part of the accept but wow, nails on a chalkboard
As I said in my other comment in English (UK) not American we say varse as does our Australian friend, the trouble is the American version vase as in phase has probably become used more popular elsewhere due to so many TH-cam videos emanating from America whereas the countries that have had immigration from the UK will use the English pronunciation.
@@Strefflyer as a native French speaker, any English word spoken with a French accent sounds wrong
except Déjà-vu
A big flat bottom can be a problem when you have good adhesion. With only 1 wall layer you don’t want to pull the finished part by the walls, you may leave the bottom on the build plate.