The hook should be in the direction the screw tightens so that it helps "pull" the wire tight and make the most contact. Just my .02 but still a good video none the less.
Agreed. I realized after filming that I did it backwards on that one. I try to always do that because it provides better contact but I inevitably miss something when recording :)
@@LRN2DIY hey I don't even film and upload so I had no right. No worries. I appreciate the content. I echo the other guy about breakers. I know to flip it. I am dumb enough to swap a switch live (stupid I know) also i got a rude awakening on an outlet by touching the screw eyes while removing line wire. Best believe I flipled main breaker afterwards. Whole house going dark! Lesson learned, kill power to circuit and get insulated pliers. Kleinman rated to 1000V but not cheap
Pro tip: If the light is only controlled by one switch then the switch is a single pole, if the light is controlled by two switches then you must use a "three way" switch. If a house was built before 2011 then you were allowed to have non-grounded switches and have a white wire, the 2011 NEC code required all switches in dwellings to be grounded and both wires are black. Homes built before 1968 didn't require grounded receptacles, if your home was built before 1968 and don't have a ground wire then you can use a GFCI receptacle for NEC code.
Your point about turning off the breaker should take up more of the video though because its the most important part. Maybe show people how to turn it off.
I’ve renovated my huge home in Michigan excluding electrical. I now live in the villages of Fla, deciding to put a backsplash in kitchen. I couldn’t believe what the flipper had done. I now have to replace 2 switches & 6 outlets. Can I put rocker switches in, the nicer ones for switches. I’m having to do this myself. I was told I can’t do it. I’ve mastered everything else. Why not at 69 years old! Going to lay tile floors next.
Yes, this can be done, but it will cause a disaster because if the plug is connected to a switch, the breaker will cut the negative wire and leave the positive wire!.
Brother, you did such a good job to explain how things work.I need to replace my outlets in my house and with your explanation.I think I can do it myself.Thank you so much and god bless
Most outlets come with a jumper plate that connects the screws on each side. That way only one black and one white wire are required for a single circuit operation. Usually 4 wires indicate that each socket is on a separate circuit with a different breaker. If installing the outlet on a 4 wire system, the jumper plates should be removed to isolate the 2 circuits. Another common misconception is the orientation of the outlets. The original design was to have the ground on top. This was a safety feature. If a plug wasn’t fully inserted and a piece of metal were to fall and hit the plug, it would strike the ground and be blocked from creating a short circuit. Somewhere over the years, someone decided that they looked better with the ground on the bottom and it became accepted. My home was built in the mid 70’s and all of the sockets have the ground on top.
Those are some great insights. I didn’t mention the connected wires other than the note on screen but the gist I wanted to get across was that if it worked before and you just want to update the outlet, do what was there before.
Bruce, you are correct that the preferred method is to use wire nuts and pigtails and therefore having only one hot wire and one neutral wire attached to the receptacle. However, using all 4 screws is acceptable and doesn't imply a separate circuit. The tab on the hot would have to be broken as you said. Not normally on the neutral. This still could be a single circuit, for the purpose of having one socket controlled by a switch and the other live all the time. In this case, on the hot side, you would normally see a red wire (hot) or a white wire also hot. If the wire is white, it should be marked with black electrical tape to indicate hot.
This comment was incredibly helpful replacing a switched outlet. After replacing the outlet, it was continuous but then I cut the plate and the switch worked again. Thank you.
@@alainchristian If you take the time to successfully remove a wire from one of those push-in connectors, you’ll see that it’s badly gouged from the mechanism that was holding it in. This reduces the cross-section of the wire if you choose to reuse it, which effectively derates it to a lower current capacity. What I’m saying is, don’t do this, cut off the damaged portion (which you don’t have to actually remove from the receptacle etc to do.)
In an article I just read about the light switch part, it says if you have 2 black wires one goes on the hot side and the other goes on the cold side but not both on the same side if only 2 black wires, and I think the ground always positions to the bottom of the switch? please respond, thanks
For light switches, unless it’s a smart switch, there shouldn’t be a neutral (white) on it - just two blacks. One is a line (power source) and the other is load (supplies power to the light fixture). Most switches either have brass screws on the same side or one on each, it doesn’t matter which you put where in those cases as long as they’re both connected.
Question, what do contractors mean when they say that the house’s wires are not grounded? Do I need to rewire my entire house to ground it? He also briefly mentioned about the wires being a fire hazard since it’s an old house (built in 1948) and that the wires were not originally grounded. Do I have anything to worry about?
If I'm need to put a plate over a non working outlet, do I just leave the main outlet mechanism in (the actual plugs) and screw the plate over top with a middle screw, or do I HAVE to remove it all somehow and attached the plate? Our maintenance man doesn't do his job and I need my 1903 house to pass an inspection in two days Thanks for any and all advice from anyone who knows.
I have 1 switch. But only one outlet is the one that controls on and off the switch. I changed the receptacle with a new one connected the positions of the wires to new one now the switch doesn’t work. So in the outlet I have two black wires and a white wire and ground wire. Do I need a special outlet?
You wrapped the wires around the screw incorrectly. The free end is supposed to come off in a clockwise rotation, so as to be closing it as you tighten the screw.
You should not leave the ground wires twisted and not capped with a wire nut. They make a green wire nut with a hole in it (greenie) for this application. On the gfci connection you failed to explain the importance of which wires go to the line and which go to the load and how to determine that. The exposed twisted wires on the neutral and the hot is completely wrong. They should be twisted together with a pigtailed wire and the pigtail connects to the screw. Alternatively, you could cut off the twisted part, re strip and use a 3 port Wago or push in style connector. The ground wires need to capped also like I mentioned for the receptacle.
Thanks for your feedback on this, Ted. That's part of what makes TH-cam great - the community aspect. Thanks also for being both kind and helpful in your comments without being demeaning. Much appreciated.
@@LRN2DIY Thank you for your response, I try to add value to videos from what I have learned, without being offensive. We are all learning here and I agree, this is what makes you tube so great.
I didn't have anything plugged in the bottom receptical in the kitchen and noticed at 3 a.m. the living room was off. checked breaker, nothing was flipped went back to receptical plugged the top to the bottom of receptical and everything turned on in the living room without anything plugged into that receptical the power shut off in kitchen and living room any idea
Got one of those three function switches . For light , celing heater and vaccum ( I guess that's what it's called ? ) Is it possible even probable that even though one of these funstions ( vacuum ) still work , that it can still the cause for the other two things not to work ? Thanks
Code doesn't address it and it's definitely not required. I do it because I've installed a lot of outlets and switches and have had to troubleshoot them several times where the ground wire was touching a screw terminal and shorting the outlet or light switch. Good electrical tape can stay flexible and useful for years. It's certainly not for everyone but that's why I wrap them. So it really is just preference.
Yeah I was curious. I was doing that and I was told that over time dust on the tape could cause it to connect between the 2 wires. Not sure just something I was told.
Appreciate the content as always. I have a troublesome GFCI. Two black wires, 2 white wires and a ground as normal. There are 2 outlets in series coming off this outlet. I’ve followed the instructions & pictures and labels on the back of the outlet itself!-Black’s to brass, whites to silver, it’s grounded etc but I cannot get the outlet to power (or the outlets in series which follow it) however, if I remove the outlet and wirenut the blacks and whites, power flows thru and power gets to the other outlets. What am I doing wrong?
Hey Nate, I wonder if the outlet itself is problematic. You’ve done a great job isolating the issue. Maybe try a different outlet and see if that does the trick?
You need to determine which black wire is energized and that and its corresponding white go to the line. If it is connected to the load, you will get the problem you're describing.
Thank you for the video. I have a garbage disposal on/off switch with a plug in (switch and outlet combo). The switch stopped clicking on and off so its broken & I need to replace it. Can I replace it with any combo outlet or is there something I need to look for when replacing it (voltage or anything like that)? There are several options and I don't know what the difference it (outside of cosmetically & maybe brands?). Would be grateful for any help. Thanks
Those typically just use a standard switch - you shouldn’t need anything special. It is, however, a good idea to check the amperage rating on the old one. It’s probably 15 amp but if it’s 20 you’ll want to buy a comparable replacement.
Not sure if you’re in the US but here’s what Home Depot has to say: “Most homes in the U.S. are wired with a combination of 15-amp and 20-amp, 120-volt circuits. Because 15-amp receptacles can be used with 20-amp circuits, most of the outlets you see in American homes are the standard 15-amp variety, with two slots and a U-shaped grounding hole.” That said, if a 20 amp outlet works for you, it is “backwards compatible” with a 15 amp supply.
First - how was it hooked up before? If you're just replacing the light switch, you can wire it up exactly like it was. Second, each wire is either from a source or going out to the fixture. If you can determine which is which, then you'll know which two to combine. It's likely that one of them comes in as the power source and the other two go to two light fixtures or off to another switch or outlet. Your original configuration should be your guide because it can take some time and tools to determine which wire is which without that.
Code in your area may vary but usually if there is no ground in your box, you don’t need to add one when replacing the outlet. If you’re running new wires, that’s a different story.
I installed a sconce and added an outlet below that had a switch for turning the sconce light on and off, but the outlet was always active. I have several in my home. So the light is controllable from a seated position.
Hi I have a mobile home which does not have electrical boxes behind the plugs and light switches. Is it possible to install new covers on them? Tks Maria
This was one of the best and easiest videos i have ever watched about this topic. Thank you
just something I do. the holes in the "mouse ears" are for helping you bend your hooks in the wire. Love your videos!!
Thank you!!! This helped me changed out switches in my new home all by MYSELF!!!
LOVE that! No distressed damsel in THIS house! 😁
The hook should be in the direction the screw tightens so that it helps "pull" the wire tight and make the most contact. Just my .02 but still a good video none the less.
Agreed. I realized after filming that I did it backwards on that one. I try to always do that because it provides better contact but I inevitably miss something when recording :)
@@LRN2DIY hey I don't even film and upload so I had no right. No worries. I appreciate the content. I echo the other guy about breakers. I know to flip it. I am dumb enough to swap a switch live (stupid I know) also i got a rude awakening on an outlet by touching the screw eyes while removing line wire. Best believe I flipled main breaker afterwards. Whole house going dark! Lesson learned, kill power to circuit and get insulated pliers. Kleinman rated to 1000V but not cheap
@@ITRMUGENITR Definitely no offense taken on that. And I’d love to get that tool too!
Can you share the timestamp of what are you talking about ? Thanks
@@uos64 3 min mark. You want the hook in direction of tightening so that the wire tightens around the screw
Troubleshooting outdoor outlets for christmas lights would be a great video. The types of outdoor lighting for safety and property value.
Pro tip:
If the light is only controlled by one switch then the switch is a single pole, if the light is controlled by two switches then you must use a "three way" switch.
If a house was built before 2011 then you were allowed to have non-grounded switches and have a white wire, the 2011 NEC code required all switches in dwellings to be grounded and both wires are black. Homes built before 1968 didn't require grounded receptacles, if your home was built before 1968 and don't have a ground wire then you can use a GFCI receptacle for NEC code.
Helpful info... thanks, Dude!
Your point about turning off the breaker should take up more of the video though because its the most important part. Maybe show people how to turn it off.
@BSD4lyfeit sure was hahahaaaa….
Thank you for your clear instruction. Many other vids did not address the wires going to which terminal.
I’ve renovated my huge home in Michigan excluding electrical. I now live in the villages of Fla, deciding to put a backsplash in kitchen. I couldn’t believe what the flipper had done. I now have to replace 2 switches & 6 outlets. Can I put rocker switches in, the nicer ones for switches. I’m having to do this myself. I was told I can’t do it. I’ve mastered everything else. Why not at 69 years old! Going to lay tile floors next.
Thanks. Learned that you can put any black wire into any of the brass slots and any white into any silver slot.
Yes, this can be done, but it will cause a disaster because if the plug is connected to a switch, the breaker will cut the negative wire and leave the positive wire!.
Excellent straight forward tutorial. Great job.
Brother, you did such a good job to explain how things work.I need to replace my outlets in my house and with your explanation.I think I can do it myself.Thank you so much and god bless
Most outlets come with a jumper plate that connects the screws on each side. That way only one black and one white wire are required for a single circuit operation. Usually 4 wires indicate that each socket is on a separate circuit with a different breaker. If installing the outlet on a 4 wire system, the jumper plates should be removed to isolate the 2 circuits. Another common misconception is the orientation of the outlets. The original design was to have the ground on top. This was a safety feature. If a plug wasn’t fully inserted and a piece of metal were to fall and hit the plug, it would strike the ground and be blocked from creating a short circuit. Somewhere over the years, someone decided that they looked better with the ground on the bottom and it became accepted. My home was built in the mid 70’s and all of the sockets have the ground on top.
Those are some great insights. I didn’t mention the connected wires other than the note on screen but the gist I wanted to get across was that if it worked before and you just want to update the outlet, do what was there before.
Bruce, you are correct that the preferred method is to use wire nuts and pigtails and therefore having only one hot wire and one neutral wire attached to the receptacle. However, using all 4 screws is acceptable and doesn't imply a separate circuit. The tab on the hot would have to be broken as you said. Not normally on the neutral. This still could be a single circuit, for the purpose of having one socket controlled by a switch and the other live all the time. In this case, on the hot side, you would normally see a red wire (hot) or a white wire also hot. If the wire is white, it should be marked with black electrical tape to indicate hot.
This comment was incredibly helpful replacing a switched outlet. After replacing the outlet, it was continuous but then I cut the plate and the switch worked again. Thank you.
This was the best and easiest video! Thank you!
Great video! I feel a lot more confident in changing things myself!!! Thanks!!!
Weekend project, here we come!!
Thank you for this tutorial!🙏🏾
You're so welcome!
Thank you for this wonderfully helpful video!
Don’t try to remove the wire from the back-wired connection, snip it off. The wire is damaged there, don’t try to reuse it. Strip to new.
@@alainchristian If you take the time to successfully remove a wire from one of those push-in connectors, you’ll see that it’s badly gouged from the mechanism that was holding it in. This reduces the cross-section of the wire if you choose to reuse it, which effectively derates it to a lower current capacity. What I’m saying is, don’t do this, cut off the damaged portion (which you don’t have to actually remove from the receptacle etc to do.)
@@alainchristian yep.
Very easy explanation ❤❤
Ooh, that’s fabulous! Thanks very much! Now that’s another string to my bow…
The load wires are also the neutrals you have that misspoke
thanks a million. I was going to paint the outlets and take the lazy way out but it may be dangerous .......
Great explanation!! Thank you for the help!
Thank you so much!!! Feeling empowered!
That was extremely helpful,, thank you for sharing!
In an article I just read about the light switch part, it says if you have 2 black wires one goes on the hot side and the other goes on the cold side but not both on the same side if only 2 black wires, and I think the ground always positions to the bottom of the switch? please respond, thanks
For light switches, unless it’s a smart switch, there shouldn’t be a neutral (white) on it - just two blacks. One is a line (power source) and the other is load (supplies power to the light fixture). Most switches either have brass screws on the same side or one on each, it doesn’t matter which you put where in those cases as long as they’re both connected.
Question, what do contractors mean when they say that the house’s wires are not grounded? Do I need to rewire my entire house to ground it? He also briefly mentioned about the wires being a fire hazard since it’s an old house (built in 1948) and that the wires were not originally grounded. Do I have anything to worry about?
If I'm need to put a plate over a non working outlet, do I just leave the main outlet mechanism in (the actual plugs) and screw the plate over top with a middle screw, or do I HAVE to remove it all somehow and attached the plate? Our maintenance man doesn't do his job and I need my 1903 house to pass an inspection in two days
Thanks for any and all advice from anyone who knows.
Thank u
Where did you place the tape before screwing it back on
The video got darker and couldn’t see the tape placement
Good stuff love side notes
Thank you! Great explanation. 😊
Big thanks for your excellent video ❣️
Thank you 🇺🇸🇱🇧👍
Thank you
Nice video! Would this also work for an outlet that has four instead of two outlets?
Yes, definitely. A four outlet box is made up of two regular (double) outlets with a plate covering all four.
I have 1 switch. But only one outlet is the one that controls on and off the switch. I changed the receptacle with a new one connected the positions of the wires to new one now the switch doesn’t work. So in the outlet I have two black wires and a white wire and ground wire. Do I need a special outlet?
This has me wanting to replace every single ugly beige outlet and light switch in my house.
It's worth it. Going from beige to white makes a huge difference around the house. Light switches too.
Thank you!!!
You wrapped the wires around the screw incorrectly. The free end is supposed to come off in a clockwise rotation, so as to be closing it as you tighten the screw.
You should not leave the ground wires twisted and not capped with a wire nut. They make a green wire nut with a hole in it (greenie) for this application. On the gfci connection you failed to explain the importance of which wires go to the line and which go to the load and how to determine that. The exposed twisted wires on the neutral and the hot is completely wrong. They should be twisted together with a pigtailed wire and the pigtail connects to the screw. Alternatively, you could cut off the twisted part, re strip and use a 3 port Wago or push in style connector. The ground wires need to capped also like I mentioned for the receptacle.
Thanks for your feedback on this, Ted. That's part of what makes TH-cam great - the community aspect. Thanks also for being both kind and helpful in your comments without being demeaning. Much appreciated.
@@LRN2DIY Thank you for your response, I try to add value to videos from what I have learned, without being offensive. We are all learning here and I agree, this is what makes you tube so great.
I didn't have anything plugged in the bottom receptical in the kitchen and noticed at 3 a.m. the living room was off. checked breaker, nothing was flipped went back to receptical plugged the top to the bottom of receptical and everything turned on in the living room without anything plugged into that receptical the power shut off in kitchen and living room any idea
Can you do video on how to replace your bathroom ceiling fan? Hopefully I said that right. PS: love your videos
Got one of those three function switches . For light , celing heater and vaccum ( I guess that's what it's called ? ) Is it possible even probable that even though one of these funstions ( vacuum ) still work , that it can still the cause for the other two things not to work ? Thanks
Thank you.
So handsome. Thanks for the how to.
I’ve heard conflicting information on wrapping the outlet with electrical tape once your done. Just wondering if that is code?
Code doesn't address it and it's definitely not required. I do it because I've installed a lot of outlets and switches and have had to troubleshoot them several times where the ground wire was touching a screw terminal and shorting the outlet or light switch. Good electrical tape can stay flexible and useful for years. It's certainly not for everyone but that's why I wrap them. So it really is just preference.
Yeah I was curious. I was doing that and I was told that over time dust on the tape could cause it to connect between the 2 wires. Not sure just something I was told.
Appreciate the content as always. I have a troublesome GFCI. Two black wires, 2 white wires and a ground as normal. There are 2 outlets in series coming off this outlet. I’ve followed the instructions & pictures and labels on the back of the outlet itself!-Black’s to brass, whites to silver, it’s grounded etc but I cannot get the outlet to power (or the outlets in series which follow it) however, if I remove the outlet and wirenut the blacks and whites, power flows thru and power gets to the other outlets. What am I doing wrong?
Hey Nate, I wonder if the outlet itself is problematic. You’ve done a great job isolating the issue. Maybe try a different outlet and see if that does the trick?
You need to determine which black wire is energized and that and its corresponding white go to the line. If it is connected to the load, you will get the problem you're describing.
Do you have to do anything with the ground wire if you’re replacing the switch?
The ground wire should be connected to the green screw on the new switch.
Thank you for the video. I have a garbage disposal on/off switch with a plug in (switch and outlet combo). The switch stopped clicking on and off so its broken & I need to replace it. Can I replace it with any combo outlet or is there something I need to look for when replacing it (voltage or anything like that)? There are several options and I don't know what the difference it (outside of cosmetically & maybe brands?). Would be grateful for any help. Thanks
Those typically just use a standard switch - you shouldn’t need anything special. It is, however, a good idea to check the amperage rating on the old one. It’s probably 15 amp but if it’s 20 you’ll want to buy a comparable replacement.
@@LRN2DIY Ok, good advise. Thank you!
5:30
Why aren't these sockets equipped with a switch?
man I. thought I can just pop the covers of put the new ones on I just got like covers I don't even know if they include these boxes.
Does it make any difference that my garage switch has movement activator light switch?
The wiring concept is the same. You'll have a hot, a neutral and a ground, but the physical switch will be different most likely.
Thanks man
How sho you know whether to replace the outlet with 15a or 20a?
Not sure if you’re in the US but here’s what Home Depot has to say: “Most homes in the U.S. are wired with a combination of 15-amp and 20-amp, 120-volt circuits. Because 15-amp receptacles can be used with 20-amp circuits, most of the outlets you see in American homes are the standard 15-amp variety, with two slots and a U-shaped grounding hole.” That said, if a 20 amp outlet works for you, it is “backwards compatible” with a 15 amp supply.
My light switch has three black wires, what do I do with the extra?
First - how was it hooked up before? If you're just replacing the light switch, you can wire it up exactly like it was. Second, each wire is either from a source or going out to the fixture. If you can determine which is which, then you'll know which two to combine. It's likely that one of them comes in as the power source and the other two go to two light fixtures or off to another switch or outlet. Your original configuration should be your guide because it can take some time and tools to determine which wire is which without that.
How do you replace new outlet when there’s no ground wire?
Code in your area may vary but usually if there is no ground in your box, you don’t need to add one when replacing the outlet. If you’re running new wires, that’s a different story.
It is against code to use a 3 hole outlet in most of the US. You need to buy a 2 hole outlet, or install a GFCI plug
Where does elelectric tape go?
If you want to use it, you wrap it around the sides, too and bottom. The purpose is to protect a human or wire from touching the screws on the sides.
Does it hurt when you get electrocuted?
Sure does. It's not pleasant.
What about double switches how do you do those
The concept is the same. You should have the same sets of connections on the new switches that you have on the old.
5:28 🤭
American outlets don’t have on/off switches on them? Wow! So you have to psychically pull the plug out to turn it off?!!
Where do you live? I’ve been to several countries and never seen a switch on an outlet but it’s a good idea!
@@LRN2DIY Britain
th-cam.com/video/UEfP1OKKz_Q/w-d-xo.html
I installed a sconce and added an outlet below that had a switch for turning the sconce light on and off, but the outlet was always active. I have several in my home. So the light is controllable from a seated position.
Hi I have a mobile home which does not have electrical boxes behind the plugs and light switches. Is it possible to install new covers on them? Tks Maria
In my limited experience with those, you’ll need to replace the entire unit as the outlets/switches and faceplates are one unit.