It is a typesetter’s saw. It was used to trim lead ingots produced by a Linotype before they were set in the page. My dad was a linotypist, a trade that has been virtually dead for about 40 years now. Thank you for showing and finding a use for it. It brought back fond memories of my father.
When taking stuff down a ramp, it’s best to be behind it, as you have more control, you can see where you’re going, and, if things do go wrong, you’re not in the way of whatever you is you’re bringing down the ramp. Great video, and great work as usual! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
personally, i wouldn't have glued the cork to the coaster. that way you can clean it if you spill stuff on it. also i would slightly taper the studs to make them easier to drop in the holes
You went down the slope the right way 👍 If you slipped, the saw would be fine as you will act as quite a good pillow. That's what I love to see. At least someone takes care tools😜 Great video Mr Frank.
Yes, the printer's saw does measure in Pica, as it is the standard measurement for wood type and also furniture (the blank space in layouts on a letterpress). Lead type is measured in points, of course, but these are related units. 1 pica (aka 1 line, or 1 line-pica) is 12pt and pica is usually written like this: 1p6 (when read out it is "1 pica and 6 pts") 72pt is 1", so one inch is 6 pica (6p0). The most common use for these was trimming the lead slugs from a Linotype machine, that made a solid line of lead type from a keyboard-input, and the line would have to be cut to length before being assembled into a paragraph. They'd also be used for trimming any other elements used to compose the final page, such as leading (the vertical spacing between lines) and cuts (illustrations).
Actually, it's 72.27 points per inch, if you use traditional typesetting equipment. With the advent of computers and desktop publishing software, well, some programs will give you the option of either 72.27 or 72.0 points per inch. One pica is still six points, either way.
I haven’t heard pica and elite for over five decades since I took shorthand and typing at school. That has really taken me back. Thank you for sharing 🌞
Frank you never cease to amaze me in the choice of your next project, the execution of it, solving of problems along the way and the quality of the video production. You are such an asset to the community. Hats off to you Frank!
If anyone wants a saw like the one Frank is using here, the most popular one out there is the Hammond Glider Trim-o-Saw which is readily available in the states. They cut extremely squarely and were made to cut metal, so they'll have a nice time in a woodshop.
Loving the theme here! You know, why not make some "lego" mugs? They make 1x1 pieces that are full height. Throw a handle on the side and you've got yourself a mug that slots right in!
As the mugs are designed to attach to a pip and the holes in the gear are for axles, which are close in diameter to a pip, to fit through, the mugs won't slot in. But, yes, you are on the right track! Perhaps if someone who knows the shrink rate of clay could make a ceramic mug of the right dimensions, and get a license from the Lego Group, I can imagine a lucrative product line!
@@JV-pu8kx The shrink rate of clay varies. I think the best clay would be a clay with no grog, so it's not "sanding" the table, so maybe a porcelain? I use Frost porcelain, which shrinks about 15%, but it depends on the day and how long since it's been manufactured.
Growing up, we had these sets called TinkerToys. They were wood dowels with split ends for inserting wings/wedges and also to fit snug into the wooded wheel/spools that had either a large center hole as a wheel hub to spin. Or smaller hole to fit the wooden dowels. Now, maybe a project for a scaled up TinkerToy furniture piece, perhaps?
Comments have already addressed that the most common printers' saw was the Hammond Glider Trim-O-Saw. It is more sophisticated than the one you have. The one I had when my print shop still did hot metal (wish now I'd kept it) had a fence on a lead screw similar to a lathe that you could easily adjust in 1/4 point (about .0035") increments. There was also a clamp which was parallel to the blade and could hold very small pieces of type (less than 1/2" as I recall). There was also a machined 45° block that fit in the corner of the front rail and the fence so you could precisely cut mitered corners to join rules. The blade was a very unique size. The Hammond saws had 3 carbide trimmers that came through holes in the saw's plate and could be adjusted to make a precise, smooth cut.
Very nice! I like the interactive nature of the piece - choosing where to place the coaster and the orientation of it in the openings. The shim maker jig is something I'll have to keep in mind for my own shop. :) Seems like I'm always going to the hardware stores to buy a pack lately.
Great little saw! I’ve always called them a Type Saw and I’ve owned a few, though always in the context of a print shop, not a wood shop. They do measure picas, and 1 inch is *almost* exactly 6 picas. The most common brands were Hammond (they had a few models) and Thompson. I don’t recognize this brand, but it appears to be missing some accessories. Most likely there was a blade guard above the blade to keep lead chips from hitting you in the face. Some have clamps to hold the work, and some got deluxe with work lights, sanding disks, blade-sharpening accessories, etc. Theres usually a saw-dust drawer at the bottom to catch your dust and chips. They’re wonderfully precise, I just sold one to a furniture restoration friend who plans to use it for marquetry and the like. It might be worth giving it a very deep blow-out and cleaning to get any hidden lead chips out of the nooks and crannies. Cheers!
I never understood why you use a shaper instead of a router until I used one like yours yesterday. Really sweet tools, oddly satisfying to use for whatever reason.
6:00 Of course we all know we should definitely always be behind the load, but it’s more comfortable to go in front of it, because we don’t have to bend down awkwardly. So we choose the wrong way, don’t we.
Maybe a fence for your router table, then you'd be okay. That printers saw is cool. How about wooden threads on legs and split inserts? That would really test your CNC skills!
you do absolutely amazing and creative work, but you really need to put that radial arm saw in a museum!! I know it's difficult. I know because I've done it and other than nostalgic reasons I don't miss it at all.
Does anyone know why the (I think dewalt) 'pull-saws' seem so jumpy/sticky when they're pulled accross the wood? You can see burn marks left near the beginning of this vid, think this has been explained before but can't find the vid.
Wonderful idea and design. Maybe in the long run if the table didn't stay tight. Would love to see a 4 nob square blocks as a type of petistal for the gear to rest on.
That printer's saw(?) is so neat--first one I've ever seen [our high school had a manual letterpress machine--but no printer's saw, certainly]. Lovely coasters. The Lego table looks great.
Great video as always! The gear table top was a great idea, but the coasters bring it to life! Purely asking out of curiosity - why does that radial arm saw take a jerking motion? Startles me every time!
If you want to flush trim a sizeable chunk on the shaper it helps to have a pin so that you can hinge the piece into the router bit in a more controlled manner.
12/12/22. Another wonderful video Frank! Love your shop, lighting, close ups, narration & your savvy use of those colored computer transpariencies in the shape of the item you are describing. Nice! Such a professional presentation...so after your AIA, did you do a tour at Disney? Absolutely fantastic creative content utilizing just about every technology availableble...humm...is their a bulldozer in our future? LoL😊👍👍👍⚙️
Beautiful work, Frank! Nicely done! 😃 You know, I had a small table saw, but nothing like that... It was scary as heck! 😂 I'm less afraid of using my bigger table saw than that one. 😬 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
He mentioned the coaster wood was barely dry enough, so my guess is it will shrink a bit in the coming months. Hopefully that reduces the risk when everything inevitably expands again
This looks fun, but I have to wonder if making the bumps and coasters out of plywood might not have been better. Seems that solid wood might swell or shrink in one direction and you'll end up with bumps that won't quite fit the holes. Plywood might be a bit more stable that way.
Maybe it would be too much and maybe too childish for your taste but you could add a lego hand that can be plugged in and act as a place to put a newspaper or rolled magazine or something along those lines
Frank, you the man. Ain't no doubt about that. But from one radial arm saw guy to another, your technique with that saw makes me think you didn't install a negative-rake tooth blade on you R.A. saw. Am I nuts? Or do you just not like the way the R.A. saw "grabs" at the wood? Not a criticism, just a question. They charge too damn much for those negative-rake tooth blades, in my opinion.
frank: would have been cool to make another set of legs for this based on the other lego x-shaped axles with some smaller gears to connect everything. also curious what the thought process was to choose CNC to cut the circles vs turning them on a lathe...
I'm sure Frank uses a macro, a subprogram, in conjunction with the main program that defines the shape or circle needed. I was a CNC aerospace machinist with the same company 1972-2003.
The bad acting can be excused, it's not so bad to distract from the point of the clip (the table and the use of the coasters). And anyway, can't do better acting without first practicing. The setup of the video was done in such a way I wouldn't have even noticed the bad acting because the focus was the lego coffee table and coasters... long winded way of saying, awesome job, love it!
Solving a simple problem after creating the complexity. I need a coffee table. Let's make one that doesn't have a flat top so it will create some problems to solve. Hurraaay, but let's invent the CNC first.
I wonder how long it will take for the Lego lawyers to tell you to take those videos down because you're using the Lego name without actually using Lego...
Frank; maybe a little over complicated design here...? Your woodworking craftsmanship stands out for all the years I'm watching your channel. A Lego table is maybe a nice idea. But making matching pads for the coffee mucks?... How about e.g. smoking weird substances to get your mind free and relaxed and come up with better "moving" ideas? Sorry I behave this way but I know you can do better. Thank you for sharing all of your content. You've been an inspiration. For now; please go wild. Best! Job
It is a typesetter’s saw. It was used to trim lead ingots produced by a Linotype before they were set in the page. My dad was a linotypist, a trade that has been virtually dead for about 40 years now. Thank you for showing and finding a use for it. It brought back fond memories of my father.
The measurement depended on the font being used, I believe. If I remember, each font had different fence. Yours is set for Pica.
Yeah I read about this before! There's 6 picas to an inch and 12 points to a pica. So a 72 point font will make letters 1 inch high
@@joshclark44 not quite. Frank’s saw will be calibrated in ATF picas. In that system, 6 picas = 0.9965 inches.
I love that you hammered in the wedges and the snoozing cat didn't budge!
I like the themed table and accessories! You could keep it going with 2x2 or 2x4 charcuterie boards, TV trays, etc.
When taking stuff down a ramp, it’s best to be behind it, as you have more control, you can see where you’re going, and, if things do go wrong, you’re not in the way of whatever you is you’re bringing down the ramp.
Great video, and great work as usual! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
personally, i wouldn't have glued the cork to the coaster. that way you can clean it if you spill stuff on it. also i would slightly taper the studs to make them easier to drop in the holes
You went down the slope the right way 👍
If you slipped, the saw would be fine as you will act as quite a good pillow. That's what I love to see.
At least someone takes care tools😜
Great video Mr Frank.
Something very satisfying about watching those cup holders slide into place.
Yes, the printer's saw does measure in Pica, as it is the standard measurement for wood type and also furniture (the blank space in layouts on a letterpress). Lead type is measured in points, of course, but these are related units.
1 pica (aka 1 line, or 1 line-pica) is 12pt and pica is usually written like this: 1p6 (when read out it is "1 pica and 6 pts")
72pt is 1", so one inch is 6 pica (6p0).
The most common use for these was trimming the lead slugs from a Linotype machine, that made a solid line of lead type from a keyboard-input, and the line would have to be cut to length before being assembled into a paragraph. They'd also be used for trimming any other elements used to compose the final page, such as leading (the vertical spacing between lines) and cuts (illustrations).
Wow, thanks for giving some background to this machine!
Actually, it's 72.27 points per inch, if you use traditional typesetting equipment. With the advent of computers and desktop publishing software, well, some programs will give you the option of either 72.27 or 72.0 points per inch. One pica is still six points, either way.
I haven’t heard pica and elite for over five decades since I took shorthand and typing at school. That has really taken me back. Thank you for sharing 🌞
@@JV-pu8kx And of course, the pica is twelve points, not six ;)
super cool, thanks
Frank you never cease to amaze me in the choice of your next project, the execution of it, solving of problems along the way and the quality of the video production. You are such an asset to the community. Hats off to you Frank!
If anyone wants a saw like the one Frank is using here, the most popular one out there is the Hammond Glider Trim-o-Saw which is readily available in the states. They cut extremely squarely and were made to cut metal, so they'll have a nice time in a woodshop.
You could also make a 1x2 or 2x2 "stud" plate for snacks!
Loving the theme here! You know, why not make some "lego" mugs? They make 1x1 pieces that are full height. Throw a handle on the side and you've got yourself a mug that slots right in!
As the mugs are designed to attach to a pip and the holes in the gear are for axles, which are close in diameter to a pip, to fit through, the mugs won't slot in. But, yes, you are on the right track! Perhaps if someone who knows the shrink rate of clay could make a ceramic mug of the right dimensions, and get a license from the Lego Group, I can imagine a lucrative product line!
@@JV-pu8kx The shrink rate of clay varies. I think the best clay would be a clay with no grog, so it's not "sanding" the table, so maybe a porcelain? I use Frost porcelain, which shrinks about 15%, but it depends on the day and how long since it's been manufactured.
14:45 Not bad at all, I really believed you were drinking tea on a sunny day! 😂
Growing up, we had these sets called TinkerToys. They were wood dowels with split ends for inserting wings/wedges and also to fit snug into the wooded wheel/spools that had either a large center hole as a wheel hub to spin. Or smaller hole to fit the wooden dowels. Now, maybe a project for a scaled up TinkerToy furniture piece, perhaps?
Made of steel. Then I would trust sitting in your life-sized TinkerToys chair. Sorry. I just know the relative sizes of the TinkerToy pieces.
It would look cool if the dowels were metal and the spools were wood!
I loved tinkertoys!
Awesome job!
A 2x2 or 2x3 tray would be nice to hold snacks and whatnots along with the drinks on the new coasters.
Cheers!
Would be neat if the gear table top rotated. Could make a sort of tripod and then a Lego axle to mount the table top to.
Comments have already addressed that the most common printers' saw was the Hammond Glider Trim-O-Saw. It is more sophisticated than the one you have.
The one I had when my print shop still did hot metal (wish now I'd kept it) had a fence on a lead screw similar to a lathe that you could easily adjust in 1/4 point (about .0035") increments. There was also a clamp which was parallel to the blade and could hold very small pieces of type (less than 1/2" as I recall). There was also a machined 45° block that fit in the corner of the front rail and the fence so you could precisely cut mitered corners to join rules.
The blade was a very unique size. The Hammond saws had 3 carbide trimmers that came through holes in the saw's plate and could be adjusted to make a precise, smooth cut.
You can make a little table top that fits two holes, for snacks/canapes
Very nice! I like the interactive nature of the piece - choosing where to place the coaster and the orientation of it in the openings. The shim maker jig is something I'll have to keep in mind for my own shop. :) Seems like I'm always going to the hardware stores to buy a pack lately.
Great little saw! I’ve always called them a Type Saw and I’ve owned a few, though always in the context of a print shop, not a wood shop. They do measure picas, and 1 inch is *almost* exactly 6 picas. The most common brands were Hammond (they had a few models) and Thompson. I don’t recognize this brand, but it appears to be missing some accessories. Most likely there was a blade guard above the blade to keep lead chips from hitting you in the face. Some have clamps to hold the work, and some got deluxe with work lights, sanding disks, blade-sharpening accessories, etc. Theres usually a saw-dust drawer at the bottom to catch your dust and chips. They’re wonderfully precise, I just sold one to a furniture restoration friend who plans to use it for marquetry and the like. It might be worth giving it a very deep blow-out and cleaning to get any hidden lead chips out of the nooks and crannies. Cheers!
I never understood why you use a shaper instead of a router until I used one like yours yesterday. Really sweet tools, oddly satisfying to use for whatever reason.
When I was in the 10th grade woodshop , we had a shaper. 1969-70.
6:00 Of course we all know we should definitely always be behind the load, but it’s more comfortable to go in front of it, because we don’t have to bend down awkwardly. So we choose the wrong way, don’t we.
Maybe a fence for your router table, then you'd be okay. That printers saw is cool. How about wooden threads on legs and split inserts? That would really test your CNC skills!
you do absolutely amazing and creative work, but you really need to put that radial arm saw in a museum!! I know it's difficult. I know because I've done it and other than nostalgic reasons I don't miss it at all.
You should make an appropriately-sized minfig head to fit in one of the holes!
Does anyone know why the (I think dewalt) 'pull-saws' seem so jumpy/sticky when they're pulled accross the wood? You can see burn marks left near the beginning of this vid, think this has been explained before but can't find the vid.
I have a box of shims that I’ve gotten from various projects, all shapes, sizes, and colors. I use them all the time.
Great project and video as always. Restoring the printer's saw can be a very nice project and an eye-pleasure for us as your admirers. Be safe.
I liked the coaster without the cork extension. The mug sets well.
Wonderful idea and design. Maybe in the long run if the table didn't stay tight. Would love to see a 4 nob square blocks as a type of petistal for the gear to rest on.
3 legs on a gear with 4-way symmetry is pretty jimmy-rustling.
nah, you still have 0.75-way symmetry, right?
That printer's saw(?) is so neat--first one I've ever seen [our high school had a manual letterpress machine--but no printer's saw, certainly]. Lovely coasters. The Lego table looks great.
The concept of the entire project is really neat.
Bill
AWESOME Frank !
I am humbled once again
You're the pro, but I'd rather fall on top of a saw than be under it.
Yeah. I was like, Frank! What are you doing? Have the load in front going down a ramp. Thankfully, no harm!
Probably wasn't as heavy as it looked.
Great video as always! The gear table top was a great idea, but the coasters bring it to life! Purely asking out of curiosity - why does that radial arm saw take a jerking motion? Startles me every time!
If you want to flush trim a sizeable chunk on the shaper it helps to have a pin so that you can hinge the piece into the router bit in a more controlled manner.
Very nice. I’d like to see some gear shaped coasters so you can piece them together on the top and make them all mesh / rotate.
a 2x2 flat brick that would match the gears holes with the underside being completely flat and big enough to cover the whole gear.
Great job Frank.
Always enjoy your creativity
Clear plastic or resin top with the connectors carved in the bottom
Loving the LEGO theme!
Sounds like your not feeling well.
Hope you take care of yourself .
Great vid. As always.
12/12/22. Another wonderful video Frank! Love your shop, lighting, close ups, narration & your savvy use of those colored computer transpariencies in the shape of the item you are describing. Nice! Such a professional presentation...so after your AIA, did you do a tour at Disney? Absolutely fantastic creative content utilizing just about every technology availableble...humm...is their a bulldozer in our future? LoL😊👍👍👍⚙️
Nice coasters and great fix on the legs!
Excellent video, thanks.
I would make conical joints for those legs.
Picas?! Haven't thought about those since art school. 😆
Arlo from the Perkins crew made this wedges template in half a minute recently :D
Wonderful stuff as always Frank!
nice project and fix for the table
Super cool project.
Beautiful work, Frank! Nicely done! 😃
You know, I had a small table saw, but nothing like that... It was scary as heck! 😂
I'm less afraid of using my bigger table saw than that one. 😬
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks for dubbing and sharing
Are you worried about humidity in the air making the wood swell which could potentially have the coaster’s stick or potentially break the table top?
He mentioned the coaster wood was barely dry enough, so my guess is it will shrink a bit in the coming months. Hopefully that reduces the risk when everything inevitably expands again
I hope you just got that mug on vacation. Heard Portland is turning into a real dump.
Cool now all you need is a logo on the Lego stuff
Be careful! The intellectual property lawyers of Lego are not known for their humour …
frank, you're wonderful. thank you for making such great content ♥
This looks fun, but I have to wonder if making the bumps and coasters out of plywood might not have been better. Seems that solid wood might swell or shrink in one direction and you'll end up with bumps that won't quite fit the holes. Plywood might be a bit more stable that way.
Right, there needs to be LEGO mugs now. Next project 😉
You make the best videos!!! Love your work!!
Maybe it would be too much and maybe too childish for your taste but you could add a lego hand that can be plugged in and act as a place to put a newspaper or rolled magazine or something along those lines
I love the concept of the table but I think I'd just mount a circle of glass on top of it.
Until you put too much pressure on one side and the whole top flipped up and hit you or fell off and broke.
@@sdspivey As I said I'd mount it not just balance it.
this was a fun one
Don't ever break or lose that mug, or you may have fun making the coasters fit another lol :)
Always above the weight. If u lose control then u can just let go
Brilliant! Thanks for sharing
Bad Acting? Mr.Howarth, your not bad acting, your doing it great! Haha!
The "bumps" on the tops of LEGO pieces are called studs.
"Stud" is the Lego term for bumps.
"Heh heh." -Frank Howarth, 2022.
Is that building method even "allowed" by LEGO Standards? :D
I assume those holes are for axles only hehe
Nicely Done. I love the Table.
Could the table top rotate like a **lazy susan** so that people can help themselves to different food items or drinks?
I hope those are steel toed sandals.
Another awesome video!! Thank you!!
# Frank Howarth Re: your lathe adapter. Why did you not just drill additional holes in the metal part rather than build another wooden adapter?
Frank, you the man. Ain't no doubt about that. But from one radial arm saw guy to another, your technique with that saw makes me think you didn't install a negative-rake tooth blade on you R.A. saw. Am I nuts? Or do you just not like the way the R.A. saw "grabs" at the wood? Not a criticism, just a question. They charge too damn much for those negative-rake tooth blades, in my opinion.
Fabulous.
frank: would have been cool to make another set of legs for this based on the other lego x-shaped axles with some smaller gears to connect everything.
also curious what the thought process was to choose CNC to cut the circles vs turning them on a lathe...
I'm sure Frank uses a macro, a subprogram, in conjunction with the main program that defines the shape or circle needed. I was a CNC aerospace machinist with the same company 1972-2003.
I love watching his CNC machine doing its thing.
you should add the „TM“ sign to the word LEGO. They are infamously known for taking videos down for this
I like the idea, but when I'm sipping coffee or tea I want to be spontaneous. Where I'm not thinking about where to place my cup of Joe
The "bumps" are called pips, in Legoese.
Cats! We need more cats in the videos!
A great example of “just because you can, doesn’t mean you should”
What is wrong with your D Walt cross cut saw it seems to be binding on your cuts
light...thanks for showing your mistakes and thanks for being encouraging..
Nice project. Did you consider magnets to hold the legs in place?
no "LEGO" signs on the bump? :(
The bad acting can be excused, it's not so bad to distract from the point of the clip (the table and the use of the coasters). And anyway, can't do better acting without first practicing.
The setup of the video was done in such a way I wouldn't have even noticed the bad acting because the focus was the lego coffee table and coasters... long winded way of saying, awesome job, love it!
I think the finish would be better with a dark stain and varnish. More "plastic-y."
How dull is your RAS?
The "bumps" are called studs.
Solving a simple problem after creating the complexity. I need a coffee table. Let's make one that doesn't have a flat top so it will create some problems to solve. Hurraaay, but let's invent the CNC first.
lazy susan. then the gear will turn!!
Always stay up hill of something heavy
❤️
I wonder how long it will take for the Lego lawyers to tell you to take those videos down because you're using the Lego name without actually using Lego...
👍 für den Algorithmus
Awesome skill and imagination, but that table is ugly as sin.
Frank; maybe a little over complicated design here...? Your woodworking craftsmanship stands out for all the years I'm watching your channel. A Lego table is maybe a nice idea. But making matching pads for the coffee mucks?... How about e.g. smoking weird substances to get your mind free and relaxed and come up with better "moving" ideas? Sorry I behave this way but I know you can do better. Thank you for sharing all of your content. You've been an inspiration. For now; please go wild. Best! Job
There ain't no Academy Award in your future.