Stripping Paint from Warhammer Miniatures using Isopropyl Alcohol
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 มี.ค. 2023
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Max prepares more CHAOS KNIGHTS for the diorama by removing the paint from a few older models ready for their new life raiding trenches!
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PS. If one more person tells me I need a funnel in the comments they’ll be eating through one. 😂 - บันเทิง
Useful video. Appreciated. Shame about the high horse brigade in the comments section. Don't see them going out of their way to make a video on doing this stuff.
Well said 😎
Citadel sprays (and Vallejo, etc) contain an organic solvent that eats into the mini to make the paint stick. My advice is to scrub the paint off, then spray over the remaining paint. It will not be noticeable.
I found that to be true, the remaining metallic was so thin on the model that it was totally unnoticeable when sprayed over!
i've just stripped paint of a test wing for my Karl franz/ free guild general kit. and was wondering why there was a slight texture to the plastic and it no longer had the shine. i've googled alot and after randomly wathing this video for any tips for getting the last bits of paint off this comment was exactly what i was looking for. Thank you gumlass1
Is that why there’s little bubbles in my primer coat? Or did just fuck that up
@@tristansimmons510 no. Bubbles are something different. Usually too much humidity when spraying, or the temperature is too low.
@@Gumlass1 ok that would make sense I live in a humid area
whats really important to know:
IPA doesnt really damage plastic or metal, but resin starts to get really soft after about 30min
I had the misfortune of experiencing that on old leman russ forgeworld turrets, where the smaller pieces can now be bent and its no longer feeling "firm"
Good knowledge
@@LizardofDoom if you are lucky and the resin didn't absorb much of the IPA you can try to put it in sunlight / UV light and "dry" the resin
But it's not a guarantee.
For me it worked slightly on the Russ turret, but the difference is still noticeable compared to a good one, it's not much mainly because they are a solid block of resin, but I guess thinner pieces may run into trouble
However, there is a third method that AFAIK doesn't affect Resin; Brake fluid (NOT BRAKE CLEANER)
That stuff may be toxic if you drink it, and can't be disposed in the drain, but it works really good to strip paint from even resin, however it also smells really bad.
thanks a ton for the info. Infortunately by the time I read this, I had already ruined a 30€ character T__T
never had a problem with IPA and Resin. After all, IPA is the go to cleaning agent for rising printed models
@@peterhiggins3329 rinsing is ok. Soaking is not. I've found you can do it in 20 minute increments without issues. For tougher stuff on resin, I use AK or GSW paint remover. Both work great, albeit very expensively.
Alcohol - the cure for so many of life's problems. The cause too though, to be fair.
A bit of a wine and mead maker's trick here. Next time you want to remove any liquid with sediment, you should try using a siphon. This will leave the worst sediment at the bottom and you can still use your sock to get the rest. Do that a second time with a coffee filter for even cleaner filtration.
Your frugality warmed my cheap Dutch heart
Coffe filters work brill for filtering it 😊
7:39 was satisfying, just how it peeled off, top tier vid, Also half way to 500 subs!!!!, just shows how great your vids are when almost half of your viewers are subbed! Well done 🎉🎉🎉
Quick tip for pouring jugs. If you turn that big boi of ISO on its side, you'll find it pours out quite nicely, less glugging
To answer your question about the orange paint flakes, I think it's because (as you said) the paint was many thin layers that you patiently allowed to dry completely before the next application. So it was probably easier for the IPA to get behind the edge of the orange paint than to pass through all those consistent layers.
This really helps, I have been looking for a video like this for sometime and has helped with my stripping of plastic minis.
Glad to be of help 🙂
My recommendation for pouring the isopropyl alcohol back in is a funnel and coffee filter an when pouring with a jug pour from the side or with the opening opposite what your pouring into, never spilt engine oil this way
May or may not be able to assist in future large-container-pouring, huzzah for unsolicited advice!
If you pour from one of the larger flat surfaces and start at a nice gentle angle, the liquid within won’t be gurgling for continual intake since it won’t have as much volume above the neck of the bottle. Learned that the fun way growing up with rigs that devoured oil. Deffo go for that funnel too to get the useable contents back into the original container!
Good advice! I think I was too excited to make the video and see how it worked and didn’t plan as much as I should of 😅
I don’t blame ya! Getting a big revamp project going is always a blast!
Leave the IPA and the cloudy sediment will settle to the bottom after a few hours. Then scoop the clean IPA out and the dregs will evaporate, allowing you to just scrub the tub out.
Next time while pouring, flip the can 180 degrees so the opening is on top. This will cause the fluid to not splash out as much!
rotating just 90 also works
I have used both "La's Totally Awesome" and "Purple Power" cleaner (separately) diluted 50/50 with water. Way less toxic than IPA--which I already use lots of in my 3D printer. Great video!
If you are going to be doing a lot of that pouring back and forth, you might want to go to your local DIY store and pick up an inexpensive pair of safety glasses and a funnel.
A funnel would of been a good idea 😂
This was amazingly helpful...Thank you.
No worries mate thank you, glad I could help 😁
Very nice video! Helps a lot. Subbed.
This was really helpful! Bought a bunch of mixed Space Marines second hand that I want to repurpose as Deathwatch so thanks for taking the time to do this 😊
Thank you mate I’m glad it was useful 🙂
Helpful and humorous!
Eyebrow game is strong in that thumbnail
🤨🤨🤨
I use isopropyl alcohol to strip paint off of toys that I want to paint for my ttrpgs. Those kinds of paint wind up needing to sit for a couple days to loosen up enough.
I find it helps if the alcohol is warmer, too.
iso is the best product for cleaning airbrush. a paintbrush dipped in iso makes a quick eraser tool for dried acryllic too.
Wow! Man, I really like your style of video! Fun, interesting and useful!
Thank you 🤟❤️
I work with isopropyl alcohol a lot and a respirator with organic filters help a lot with the fumes
Nice video brother. I'm about to attempt this myself so here I am. Strangely entertaining so gonna check out your other stuff. Cheers
Thank you mate 😂
Pro tip for reusing your IPA, invest in a big funnel, and attach some form of filtering material to the bottom, makes it a faster and less messy process.
Great Video! Thanks!
No worries my guy, thank you for watching 🙂
For future reference, if full turn bottles like that on their side when you start tipping.
Brown Dettol works good as long as your models don't have spray primer on, the paint will just slide off quite easily, but that might only he viable for smaller models that are hand primed.
Most of my army was quite easy to remove the paint from with this method, but things I'd spray primed, especial with a lot of surface area like my rhino, were quite time consuming.
Brown Dettol works because it contains isopropyl alcohol. There’s much less soaking time needed if you use straight iso and it becomes less gooey. 🙂
@LizardofDoom oh? Then I was mislead by the people I've spoken to before, they made out like dettol was some magical substance
So my models smell of pine cleaner for nothing lmao
@@spook9155 I quite like the smell of Dettol 😂
1:14 I feel your pain man
Thank you for the video! I’m gonna use IPA to strip some marines I bought!
Some suggestions as I deal with solvents like IPA everyday.
1) pour slowly to avoid the “glug” and keep from splashing everywhere.
2) use a funnel and coffee filters to strain as you pour back into your jug, the coffee filters dry fast and you can use them 2-3 times before they get too gunked up
3) ventilate your space, wear eye protection and chemical resistant gloves. Solvents are toxic as hell
4) dispose of that sludge at a hazardous waste disposal site. Solvents are toxic and it’s bad to flush it down the drain. Solvents are toxic as hell
i do now own a funnel after this fiasco 😂
I just started painting on my first set of models. My paint wont stick to the primer. Realized I had a primer / paint combo. This video is a good help to fix the mistake.
Glad to be of help 🙂
Nice video, thanks.
You can get fluid transfer pumps for under £10 and up, depending on how easy you want to make the job.
I own a funnel now after this palaver 😂
I'm a Battletech player, and I do my mechs orange. I can 100% confirm that it's a pain. Mixing white into the orange for the first coat helps a lot.
Does it only work with acrylic based? How about with lacquer based?
Gonna try and do this to my T'au army to freshen them up! They were my first and are... quite tragic compared to my modern stuff
My go-to stuff has always been Wilko paint and varnish stripper, which worked like a dream on plastics, but obviously that's no longer an option so I'm here doing some research. In my experience, spray paint is always far more difficult to get off than brushed acrylics, regardless of what you're using (I used to use Nitromors, which works great for metal models but will reduce plastics to sludge and can also burn your skin if it's on you too long). Tip for the future; if you pour from the bottle sideways it's easier to keep some airflow going in as the liquid comes out. This will eliminate the sloshing and prevent it from splashing everywhere. 🙂
in the UK Biostrip is the same formulation as Wilko stripper
Free awesome weathering from the metallics! Feature!
To filter, try cutting the bottom off a 2 liter bottle, lay part of an old cotton tshirt around the inside, secure the ends around the side of the bottle, then use it as a funnel into the jug
You can leave your plastic minis for more than a week in PA, no problem. To get rid of the primer (leadbelcher included), leave it for 3 days mini so you don't need to spend too long scrubbing the bastard with a toothbrush or a trade paintbrush. For filtering further used, get a pack of paper coffee filters the metallic pigments will get caught.
i wonder if it primer on it before the orange paint
Primer is tricky to get off. The normal colour is easy, it just goobs off, as seen, but primer.... No matter the colour. Especially in the nooks... Like removing glue between two parts.
A funnel and coffee filter will work better than a sock👍
Back in the day I used to hoover up miniatures with 50 layers of paint up off ebay for cheap. Then soak them overnight in Dettol (had to be the original not pine scented) and scrub off with a toothbrush. Gloves were a must or you lost the top 10 layers of skin off your hands.
my go to back in the day was dot-3 brake fluid, but the dollar store where i am has big bottles of 91% rubbing alcohol, might give this approach a try for stripping some space marine scouts i got off ebay. alcohol ought to be easier to clean up after at least.
Very honest video
I’d rather be real than make sterile prefect tutorials 🙂
Just be careful with the iso as it is highly combustible, especially the vapours you can't see. As you say, good ventilation is a very good idea. It works well, but you just have to treat it like any potentially dangerous chemicals with care. Obviously storage away from pets and children as it of course would be very harmful for them. It is an irritant too, so gloves are good.
I know it probably sounds a bit obvious, but probably worth including warnings for safety in videos just to cover yourself.
It is fantastic with metal models btw. Obviously no use for resin.
An alternative is methylated spirits, which apparently is more effective, but I've yet to try myself. Goobertown hobbies did a comparison video in his scientific testing way with some interesting results.
if you want to properly clean the isopropyl you'll want to run it through a bunch of cat litter and coffee filters, that will clean out all the junk in it
Amazing, that's a great tip!
Did you ever find of a way to strip the spray paint? I used an army painter spray primer on one of my models and it didn't turn out well (it has a texture to it). I tried stripping it with isopropyl alcohol, an oven degreaser and ethanol, but to no avail. These other methods work with normal paints, but the acrylic spray paints seem to not get stripped.
I’ve done some further research and it’s the solvents in rattle cans that are the problem. They chemically bond to the mini. I’ve had that same issue with army painter primer, I suggest colour forge as an alternative. 🙂
I was kinda shocked you didn’t use a funnel and a strainer sock! Oh well. In your opinion do you think that works better than SG?
Commit commit commit!!!! LOVE IT
when you're pouring out of big 5l jugs like that, pour it sideways on or upside down from how you're doing it there. Way more control and less glugging splashing.
isopropyl or lacker thinner or acetone?
Just a note bro when pouring hold on the side stops the glugging works well when refilling the screen wash too 😂
in the UK, go to home bargains/b&m etc etc and jet a bottle of the yellow spray stuff called 'elbow Grease' dunk your minis in and the paint just liquifies and washes back off, agitate with a tooth brush and repeat a soak. seems to be endlessly reusable, just a funky colour now. its £1.50 a litre..
That's a useful shout, will have to pop to home bargains and give it a try. Combine with a ultra sonic cleaner and probably even more effective.
@@bionicgeekgrrl I would imagine so, although I haven't tried that out. It's brilliant stuff for removing paint.
That reminds me on Chinese eating ASMR videos, when they cook lobsters and crabs and stuff. xD
Pouring the second stage of filtration through a paper coffee filter would remove the metal flakes
And make you feel like the villain in License to Kill.
Hahaha hope that was a clean sock lol 😂
There’s a reason I bombarded it with pure alcohol 😂
Last message sorry for spamming. I just really appreciate this video. I found a video by Wham Bam Systems on filtering the alcohol. The metallics should settle out. I'm going to try filtering it through coffee filters. Thanks again.
Tbh I’ve just left it a bit dirty and it still works perfectly, doesn’t need to look good, just needs to work 🙂
Don’t worry about spamming, glad you enjoyed the video 😂
This technik really work ? WoW
Great video Max. I need to strip a Dark Vengeance Hellbrute and this method should do the job nicely. Thank you )O(
@@Chimer24-qs5wo glad to be of help! 🙂
@@LizardofDoom Worked like a charm, thanks again 👍
I tried using purple power and a sonic tub before...it makes all GW plastic soft....I wonder if IA would have the same draw back?
I’ve had a gargant in IA for a fortnight after this vid because I forgot he was there and he was fine 🙂
When your pour them big ol' jugs, pour with the flat side facing down, you won't surge as bad and splash it everywhere xD
in future, a funnel and coffee filter paper is the best way to filter
that's the smart way, I used the Max way :L
What type of isopropyl alcohol did you use? is it a 99% or 91% ? Thanks!
I believe it was 99% 🙂
@@LizardofDoom oh okay rhanks!
What type of container did you use?
Plastic food grade Tupperware 🙂
@@LizardofDoom thank you
@@EuanGZzap no worries 🙂
I am still using the same bottle of alcohol from 2 years ago it is solid black in colour now but still does the job perfectly save dem hobbie dollas brother 🎉 Also to get it back in the bottle i bought some plastic tube to make a Syphon and use a big syringe to get the flow started👌
I’m still using this batch of alcohol now, currently has some space marines sat in it 🙂
Dont use a scalpel u willl scratch into the plastic use a wooden toothpick work perfect.
It's my scraping blade, very blunt :)
@@LizardofDoom 😎👍
This is both painful and hilarious to watch.
it was painful to film 😂
@@LizardofDoom It was the snapping of the bits off. Made me wince.
@@jimiarundell to be fair only one bit slightly broke but was fixable
iso and a jewalry cleaner breaks up the paints. i only have a small cleaner myself but you can get much larger machines for more money but they clean models with iso flawlessly. sure it might take one or two sessions but models come out as bare plastic more often than not. but again if there's any paint left its just stains than actual paint. can just prime over them with no problems.
however using a machine for too long does warm up the iso and can cause the glue to seperate parts. not much of an issue the cage inside stops parts sinking to the bottom of the machines.
i actually ran into a worst case scenerio where someone primes there whole space marine army in latex wall primer.... i learned through alot of trial and error 100% acetone mixed with 90% works best
Oof that is unfortunate 😂
@@LizardofDoom i actually cleaned them all off and primed them black, now just wanting to trade them
THe best thing weirdly enough is Dettol. The ordinary straight antiseptic fluid. Works better than Nitromores; spirits; alcohols;.
@@chazwyman the active ingredient in dettol that strips paint is isopropyl alcohol
Can I also do this with minis I sprayed varnish on? :(
You should be able to🙂
@@LizardofDoom thx Bro 😎 ❤️
just an FYI... Iso weakens the glue joints so they can be easily pulled apart, and i'm guessing the metallic was leadbelcher spray, I'm having issues removing the spray coat off my assault marines
Good to know! Yeah it was leadbelcher, I think it just stained the actual plastic though because there’s no loss of detail and it’s been no problem to go over 🙂
Iso is pretty effective against super glue. With polystyrene glue it is more that the two pieces get welded rather than glue, which is what makes it harder to break apart, especially on big bits with big contact points. Though if you have used the thin cement like tamiya extra thin, the weld is likely quite small. 😊
Next time you pour it flip it so the nozzle is at the top, it will flow smoother
Orange is THE nightmare.
So hard to get a smooth consistent coat but I do it all with contrasts and inks now 🙂
@@LizardofDoom Me too, but I was damn impressed at the orange you managed to get on your Knights previously. Seriously I was jealous. 😂
@@Thornspyre81 thank you mate that was a serious amount of time and patience 😂
never done an oil change, have yee? hold the jug east west whilst pouring, instead of north south, and she wont glug at all. good vid, thanks for the infos!
Are there no funnels overseas?
Check the videos description 😂
Hold the jug on its side.
Never able to get ALL the primer off with alcohol, doesn't matter the color or brand of the primer. It get's enough of it off that the fine details aren't gummed up so this is my usual method. I just never thought of recycling the alcohol like the villain in License to Kill.
Note to self. Use a container with a tap to reclaim liquid.
I would use dettol to strip paint off plastic when i used to collect warhammer.
So I have been back into painting for about 2 months now. Already has loads of IPA for my glass vases 👀😂
I've let minis sit in IPA for DAYS at a time with no issues, a toothbrush and maybe some various diameter pip cleaners and you'll get in moat places without breaking up the model
Great video, I was a bit afraid of using it but I guess I'm not anymore. I'm jus wondering what will happen to glue when I throw my figures into this.
Some are glued with Contacta Professional and some with just a superglue.
I’m not sure if it will effect it, I think the worst thing that could happen is they just come apart and need re gluing.
The older glues will become a bit more brittle so get ready to glue a few things back on that weren't glued on that well to begin with; but it's not too bad.
We have brown Dettol in South Africa. I've used to strip minis before. And I don't recommend it. Beside the smell while working, it also lingers on the models forever.
i quite like the smell to be honest, its the sticky gunk it turns paint in to i dislike
@@LizardofDoom This am true! I'm planning to strip some minis soon and will definitely be using Iso, so thanks for this video. Did you eventually put on nitrile gloves? Apparently they're the best...
@@johnd1758 yeah I did, the bits where I wasn’t careful dried my my skin out a bit
You poured the jug upside down. The opening should be on top, like when you pour oil in your car. How did you get to your age without knowing this?
Probably a mix of not having a great farther and also not having know-it-alls on the internet comment on how I pour things until now. 😂
FYI you poured it out with the jug the wrong way, have the opening at the top when pouring prevents glug glugging splash.
I think you may have just changed my life
@@mattbuckley6928 lol
If you pour sideways the liquid wont glug out! also can pierce a hole on one side to get a more laminar flow
is it strange by any chance?
The reason the metallic paint stayed on is because metal is stronger than orange
Protip.... pour sideways to eliminate splash.
Why wasn't any protection used? The act demonstrated here looks like a huge health hazard to me.
@@PetrPetrovich Thanks doctor.
It’s rubbing alcohol. The worst it’s going to do is give you dry skin and inflame any pre-existing skin conditions.
Heads up, never use this with resin
Also a funnel would be useful for getting it back in the jug
Make it all floppy doesn’t it?
Also check the description 😂
@@LizardofDoom it melts the resin
@@Sgt-lott10 I bet some poor bastard has ruined a forgeworld model
@@LizardofDoom it's happened way too often, someone once went to strip some old cadians Just to learn that the torsos and heads came from the forge world upgrades which are now extremely rare and sell for $300+
It's why I always scrape a bit of paint away on a flat spot to check the material before stripping the paint
Outside
Hold the bottle the other way up next time! Hole at the top.
Interesting.... i'm assuming it lets air in more efficiently so it doesn't glug.
Never look inside your sock after you finish…
🤣🤣🤣 grim
Ok seriously, where's your Patreon or Kofi link?
You know what, I’ve been thinking “would anyone be interested?” And you’ve just encouraged me to set one up tonight 😊
@@LizardofDoom fucking yes!! :D
Wow.. that much ISO costs almost as much as the minis.
£20 ish, but it’s also reusable 🙂
The prices went silly during the lockdown as everyone wanted to make sanitizer. Before the pandemic you could get 5-10l for about 10 quid. Even at 20 quid for 5l, you will strip a lot of minis before it is all used I you filter and reuse it. Plus you can use it as a household cleaner for some things as well as a airbrush cleaner.
When you get the second lot keep the old bottle so you have a clean and dirty bottle.