4:58 and onward, it’s a good idea to place a rag or piece of kitchen roll beneath the plastic tray joining part where the screws and Allen headed bolts are to be removed, so that if they are dropped when removing they don’t end up in the recess of the remaining suspension unit, from where they can be tricky to retrieve. Don’t ask me how I learned this! Great tutorial Albert, thanks for making it. Tried the Pilot Street 2, but way too squirrelly for me personally, so going back to the stock Kenda. 👍🏻🥃🏴
Awesome video, thank you so much for this! Side note, I believe when disconnecting the battery terminals, negative (black) should be pulled first then positive (red). When reconnecting the battery terminals, positive (red) should be connected first, then negative (black).
This only matters if there is risk of “bridging the gap”. In this scenario, all the plugs are pretty protected and therefore risk of bridging the gap through other means is little to none.
@2cells1pack oh I was referring to why it sounds like tunes are knocking around by the pedals sometimes. Or why it's important to over tighten the small screws on the side of the slider housing
The metal of the screws of the battery housing to suspension is so soft! I managed to strip it and the drill bit chewed into the metal like it was made out of butter. Would have been nice if the screw extractor didnt broke inside the screw though (now to wonder how to fix that, snort).
@@2cells1pack in case i screw up the thread of the screw hole. You said I needed to be careful. Unless you meant the magnesium in the mix could cause problems.
I meant be careful not to strip it. If you drill and tap, just make sure you go slow (aluminum/magnesium has low melting temp) so need to be careful with drill bits.
@@2cells1packhello am following your video to change my Sherman S tire. While putting back the suspension, I find that the suspension is bigger than when I removed.
very nice tutorial... thats one of the things that I dislike about the sherman s... its a pain to take it apart... specially the battery cables going through those weird shaped holes what the hell was leaperkim thinking when designing that... also the cheap phillips screws why just why XD
Would you say those 8 bolts around the top are structural? Clark Pads is putting a TPU washer there on those bolts with a 1/4 gap under the head. Seems like a bad idea to me.
My confidence in humanity has been restored… yeah, it’s that good! ❤
thanks !
4:58 and onward, it’s a good idea to place a rag or piece of kitchen roll beneath the plastic tray joining part where the screws and Allen headed bolts are to be removed, so that if they are dropped when removing they don’t end up in the recess of the remaining suspension unit, from where they can be tricky to retrieve. Don’t ask me how I learned this! Great tutorial Albert, thanks for making it. Tried the Pilot Street 2, but way too squirrelly for me personally, so going back to the stock Kenda. 👍🏻🥃🏴
Amongst all the shit wheel change videos, this one shines like a star. Thank you.
Thanks Cell 1.. as always you are wonderful part of the community!
My pleasure! I'm glad it comes in handy
Awesome video, thank you so much for this!
Side note, I believe when disconnecting the battery terminals, negative (black) should be pulled first then positive (red). When reconnecting the battery terminals, positive (red) should be connected first, then negative (black).
This only matters if there is risk of “bridging the gap”. In this scenario, all the plugs are pretty protected and therefore risk of bridging the gap through other means is little to none.
@@2cells1pack thanks for clarifying
The voiceover makes it great.
Haha thanks
Once again can't be more happy with the content you 2 put out! Any news on the begode suspension video? Thanks again you 2!
Suspension video? In terms of how to set it up ? There was a video about changing the linkage from stock to stock+
@2cells1pack oh I was referring to why it sounds like tunes are knocking around by the pedals sometimes. Or why it's important to over tighten the small screws on the side of the slider housing
Thanks!
Woah! Thanks !!
Great step by step thanks for that. Made me feel like i could do it
You can do it!
excellent looks quite simple thx
Nice! One thing: I would use a rim protector, otherwise the paint may crack.
Just depends on how much force one uses. I don't use too much force when doing tires
Grat tutorial!
Great video, extremely helpfull.
Glad it was helpful!
The metal of the screws of the battery housing to suspension is so soft! I managed to strip it and the drill bit chewed into the metal like it was made out of butter.
Would have been nice if the screw extractor didnt broke inside the screw though (now to wonder how to fix that, snort).
These pieces are cast aluminum/magnesium so need to be careful.
@@2cells1pack harder to re-drill and tap?
What do you mean?
@@2cells1pack in case i screw up the thread of the screw hole. You said I needed to be careful.
Unless you meant the magnesium in the mix could cause problems.
I meant be careful not to strip it. If you drill and tap, just make sure you go slow (aluminum/magnesium has low melting temp) so need to be careful with drill bits.
You make it look so easy!
How about one for the S18? That one is still giving me trouble.
Gen 1? Or gen 2?
@@2cells1pack Not sure, I have a Molicel P42a model.
Most likely a gen2. I'll see what I have access to.
Great tutorial. Much cleaner than the video i followed for my tire change
Glad it helped
@@2cells1packhello am following your video to change my Sherman S tire. While putting back the suspension, I find that the suspension is bigger than when I removed.
Great tutorial! What's the inner tube size??
2.50/2.75-14
Magical self repairing rims
😉
ssshhhh.... i had to do a motor swap - but i know that tire change video is more needed.
@@2cells1pack Absolutely, the tyre change tutorial is great! Will help many people 😊
Can you put a 90/90 on this rim of Sherman S?😊
very nice tutorial... thats one of the things that I dislike about the sherman s... its a pain to take it apart... specially the battery cables going through those weird shaped holes what the hell was leaperkim thinking when designing that... also the cheap phillips screws why just why XD
its not TOO bad compared to last generation of wheels.
Would you say those 8 bolts around the top are structural? Clark Pads is putting a TPU washer there on those bolts with a 1/4 gap under the head. Seems like a bad idea to me.
The 8 bolts that secure the battery packs to the motherboard holder?
@@2cells1pack yeah.
Are the fork stations in a dust free compartment? You can't really wipe them off to prolong their life.
unfortunately they are not. they are subject to a lot of dirt.
Curiousif its important to power on to drain caps after battery has been disconnected ?
It's important to drain the caps if you are touching the main control board, or removing phase wires from the board.