MST RMX 2.0 RTR - Box Stock Build Series Week 3 - Scale Science
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2024
- Join us as we take the plunge into the old days for us and show newcomers the easiest way to take their ready to run cars and get into doors at their local track!
We spent a total of $39.96 in week 3 adding a Scale Reflex Shim kit, Yokomo ball ends, 25mm Lunsford Titanium Steering turnbuckles and our servo relocation turnbuckle. We also added a set of +5mm offset wheels to further widen our front track width to stabilize and gain better control and carry in drift. The MST Chassis is performing at its stock peak so we will call Week three our stock** RTR stopping point. At this point, a new driver should spend the next couple months behind the wheel putting in as much lap time as possible. Get to know your setup and learn about your car and how it drives with you behind the wheel. Aesthetically speaking, the car needs much more to quantify it into real or RC so we will be sourcing a light kit and some other fun things for next week’s episode! In the coming weeks, we will lay out the stage 2 goals and needs and begin saving for all the fun! Don’t worry though as we will keep it fun!
Drop us a comment below if you have any tips for electronic options or other Aesthetic mods you'd suggest to a newcomer!
Stay tuned for more to come from Project Get DOORS.
When I put some cheap onisiki parts in mine it became a whole new beast. Found myself doing so much work on the trigger when I was learning on the stock rtr as soon as I upgraded I felt like a boss
This, this right here!!! This is the point we are trying to promote! Practice practice and practice some more. In your practicing, you’ll not only find your vehicles shortcomings but your own too. It will also start honing the tuning skills as understanding and being able to articulate the issue is the first step in tuning anything! Spread that gospel Shawn!
I own exactly the same rtr with the silver nissan s15. Love how you break the mods in stages just like a full scale car. So, my personal suggestion for stage 2: front and rear upper arm turnbuckle (for camber change) and radio (mid spec like sanwa mt44), stage 3: motor and esc (mid spec like hobbywing quicrun), stage 4: rear motor conversion with motor set at upper position. Imo the stage 4, operated by a really good driver, can probably keep up with at least 70% of cars at the track on any day
We adjusted front camber to its ideal location with shims instead of turnbuckles to show the guys at home other ways to adjust since parts are scarce for the rtrs. As for the rest, thank you for the suggestions and for tuning in! Hope you’ll join us for the next episode!
Loving the series for someone who knows nothing im using the tips even for my yd2s
Hyped on that!
Let’s go. Love this series. I don’t own a drift RC but have been wanting to pull the trigger. Can’t decide between a sakuraD5 or this MST RTR. This content is great. 🙏 thank you
Both great option!
Hey while yall have been building the rmx I've been building the fxx. I just recently changed out my motor & esc to the hobbywing d10 motor & xr10 pro and that's helped out tremendously.
Do the motor first. Want to see how far you can take the stock radio
Thank you for the build info, just getting back into drifting after watching your channel.
Have ordered the basic kit and all the mod bits you have done.
I went with yokomo v4 gyro, reve d servo and hobbywing electrics.
Thanks again for the great info.
Fantastic Choices there Sean, you’re going to love them! Don’t forget to set the servo endpoints on your radio, then your gyro and if you didn’t already do so, the OTA Bluetooth programmer for your Hobbywing stuff will make life so simple from your phone! Enjoy yourself and thanks for tuning in!
Nice video! Bought the same chassis last week and this series is perfect for me to learn. Imo you should change the engine for the next episode 💯
Great little touches to the body 👍
Loving this! Can’t wait for the next episode. I just got a RMX and this is a huge help
Next episode coming soon!
@@ScaleScience can’t wait 🤙🏾
Gundam panel liner pens work very good for this. On each pass you can very easily clean up the mistakes and make it as dark as you need.
I’m going hunting now! Thanks for the tip
@@ScaleScience definitely! I use grey and black and with just a little bit of an dip in the body it will stay in but allow you to wipe the excess off easy.
Imagine making a full Rocket Bunny body kit for this thing. It will be just INSANE!😱❤️
I’d really love to see the Hibino S15 kit on a body!!
Great all round tuning tips and advice. Pretty universal.
Great series, grats on the AMain shout out!!
Thanks geoff!!
I just got one of these so Ivan build along! Interested to see how far the stock electronics will go.
Dope Cam! They will go for quite sometime but we are personally reaching limitation on power needed so looking to do a gearing change as one last possible band aid til hold us over while we save for the new new. If we do upgrade the servo, I think we will have to do a radio as the finite end point control on the stock transmitter is lackluster to be nice about it lol.
@@ScaleScience Haha I hear that, just got mine plugged in and know what you mean about the end point settings the remote is super basic!
Super excited when I found out Denver had a rc drift track, I looked everywhere online and couldnt find anything. Looking to get an RWD RC car in the future. Love watching the series. Keep up the content!
We have rental cars! Come get your feet wet anytime
Dam cuh. Am a put the cricut to work them body lines are a huge scale must have. No wonder my mines was looking wack
very nice work! Excited to watch stage 2
Thank you for tuning in Team Saiko!
Mine arrives today! First drift rc. I'm pretty stoked
Welcome to Drofting we hope you enjoy your new whip!
Absolutely love this series! Blissfully done!
Thank you for the kind words!
Loving the series! Keep up the grate work my friend!
Thank you Brandon!
Another great informative video. Learning a lot from them. Thanks as always.
Thanks for tuning in!
Killer video and content!! Always got the beats going and good tips!!
Thanks Ryan!
Awesome series, I cant wait for the next episode :D
Just discovered the build series and loving it 👍 re the panel lines there is a technique in model making called pin washing recon it would give you the fine lines your chasing
Thanks Jimmy I’ll check that out!
These are great videos. It’s great to see the changes you’re making and that you’re not just dumping a huge chunk of cash into this. Do you list the music in your videos anywhere?
I need these turnbuckles to compliment the other items I've done as I follow along
I think you should explain the difference between tires and tire compounds and what works best for different tracks from carpet to concrete. Education is best for going faster and smoothly on the track
Safely it’s best to speak to what works on our surface. Everyone’s tracks and requirements are so different that no two tracks are identical in most regards. As far as compounds go, that’s a whole series in itself to be honest so maybe that’s something we can do in the future!
I'm just thinking about the guys who can't afford to keep buying parts, something that's cheap and easy to do is to go test and tune. You have a great idea with taking an rtr car and showing everyone that it's a great beginner car that can comp right out of the box. With very little extra parts and still have a great time at any local track. Great channel you have and badass track you have. Hopefully I'll get a chance to see your shop this year and shred some tires with y'all
@@michaeljones2960 I have a simple breakdown for people on a budget. Most end up buying twice, the lower grade then the
Higher grades when they inevitably want more. We have had the benefit of doing this electronic testing on many variations of setups with different servos, gyros, ESC’s and motors. While I see the value in adding things in the budget threshold, we are going to take the opportunity to tell the broader story like people who resell their chassis after they get bored, the guys that wish they would have saved an extra $100 and bought a 4pm instead of the 3pv, etc etc. hopefully we can do all that explanation without putting people to sleep lol. Looking forward we are ready for those doors whenever
What do you think about the rear MB suspension active toe kit for the rmx 2.0? Awesome video by the way.👍🏽
We are fans!
Can’t believe I’ve spent almost 2k on my builds when I could’ve waited and followed these vids lol. Any vids of the D5 coming in the future?
We have a number of d5 videos including unboxing, tuning guide and slide video examples already on our channel! Go digging back to about a year ago!
If you don’t push as hard with the marker, it will be easier to look consistent.
I just finished building my first drift car and it's this same car.i noticed that it had a lot of play and thought it was something that I did I'm glad to see it wasn't me and the rtr has the same amount of platy in the steering.
Some play ensures nothing binds on plastic parts.it can also help mitigate damage caused when crashing though it’s not always avoidable. Hope you’re enjoying your first drift car!
@@ScaleScience I haven't even has a chance to mess with it. I live in lakewood and with the snow falling I can't go outside and besides you guys I only know of the track in hobbytown and that's far too go so I've been just staring at my car lmfao
@@shaun7057 were open tonight come on down roads aren’t bad!
Did You have to adjust the steering link tow block adjusters on the front after taking 1mm from the top link arm and adding 2mm to the bottom arm ? This series has been a huge help setting up my RMX 2.0 ,, Thank You Scale science :)
Yes but we didn’t showcase it as we changed the turnbuckles at the same time
Hey man, im using the same kit as u, mst rmx 2.0 rtr. I changed the remote to
Flysky gt3b.
Here is the problem, I tried to connect the gyro to the remote using the red cable, so i can adjust it from my remote, I tried everything, but it wont turned on. Kinda frustrated with it.
Do you know how to control the gyro using the gt3b?
Fyi The gyro is stock (MST LSD X)
You need to turn on the 3rd channel plug on your reciever through your radio and then you can adjust the gain +|-
Take the stock radio as far as you can
Interesting that in an RC you move more weight onto the rear, where as most drift cars are more front bias. Why isn't there rc cars that are front engine rwd, i mostly see mid engine setups.
Look up the MST FXX or a WUN FRD. Front engine rwd. But generally speaking, MR (mid engine vehicles handle best in the 1:1 world so that translates. Most of us push weight to the rear because the car’s size is scaled 1:10, the weight isn’t. If the weight was scale the little RC would weigh over 30lbs instead of 1-3 and getting better handling from a true to life scaled drivetrain would be easier to make competitive.
What front toe spec did y’all end up with / recommend? (Irl 1:1 scale lol) I like 1/8”-1/4” toe out pending track / grip
I have a question about adding spacers to the arms. If I remove 1mm from top and add 2mm to bottom can I still use stock non adjustable steering tie rods without the alignment being out of wack without buying adjustable turnbuckles
In my experience no as that adjustment will throw your toe out and make the car very prone to crab walk. But, you can avoid needing adjustable tie rods for the camber adjustment and avoid needing an alignment rack with the shims as they measure for you. But the steering turnbuckles and ball ends will be mandatory if you do adjust.
motor and esc next
How do you like the high cg motor?
Either a mx6 or 3pv for radio budget options or for motor set hobbywing quick run 13.5 or 10.5 (not sure what you guys run there) or the yokomo drift zero and rs4 esc
I think we might make it a poll on FB
Sir what kine body mounts are those?
Can I still find the 68mm turnbuckle for the servo ,as well as the shims and yokomo turn buckle ends on your guys site ?
No sir, Yokomo ends have been on backorder as have the turnbuckles.
hey, stupid question but what's the song used in 0:15 - 1:30 ? I can't shake it off my head
got it - Odyssey by Kato, Spyker, TOBSIK if anyone is wondering
why price
Have you looked into the tamiya panel liner that gunpla builders use for there panel lining needs
I ordered some of the Gundam 01 fine panel line pens to try per another commenters suggestion. I will forever prefer stickers for the long straight line needs but for little areas like I outline in the video (gas cap or tight hard radius lines I’ll try to inject some pen work! Thanks for the suggestion Chad!
where's week 4?
What’s the reason for not going for the high cg motor mount? Just curious seems other channels have tried it and got positive improvements from it.
More tuning we didn’t want to mess with at the time. The car is shredding in its current state but we may experiment for sake of experimenting soon.
How do I convert the servo this way? I have the turnbuckle but I can’t find any videos on how to properly set it up this way?
It’s in the MST instructions. If you don’t have the paper copy, it’s downloadable online. Search MST RMX 2.0 instruction pdf.
@@ScaleScience thank you!
where did you get your magnetic body mounts ?
We sell them! Send us a message on FB or email via our website and I can get you squared on a set for yourself
I'm just getting started into this. I was looking at some wheels and I see that they come in different sizes of hex. What size hex does this car have? 12mm? I just ordered my kit today.
12mm standard size for most* 1:10 scale vehicles
Where can I get these shims? Ones I find from scale reflex are for yd2s are they compatible for mst rmx 2.0??
Shims are shims essentially. The size is more important then the car it’s for and in simple, yes it will be compatible. Generally when they create a chassis specific kit, it could be shims for specific locations on specific sizes. We use a lot of 1 up shims as well as amazon specials. Get a variety for m3 hardware (middle hole is at least 3mm) and thicknesses from .5, 1.0 and maybe even some 2.0’s.
@@ScaleScience awseome thankyou for response!!
What was the gain from moving the servo? More rear weight bias I assume?
Exactly that. It’ll make installing a new servo and centering it a piece of cake too as well as adjusting the throw length. Lots of benefits
I just looked on the site. Do you guys have anymore of the adjustable toe links?
Only have steel options currently. No titanium or aluminum
@@ScaleScience could you share the link? Couldn't find any links at all.
@@InMn they aren’t online. A majority of our inventory isn’t online. If you need something specific, please contact us directly via email scalescience@gmail.com
What is your gyro set at? What mode and how much adjustment on the screw?
Currently believe it is on green mode at 65%
What's the bennifit of relocating the servo??
Moves weight back in the chassis bias and it allowed us to get lots of throw.
why not just drop 1 or 2 teeth on the pinion to get the better low end?
We found that without being able to electronically add the loss of gearing back to the esc/motor, the stock combo runs out of steam and can’t carry the speed needed to stay in the train.
I want one 😫 😩
What are you waiting for?
What make is your rear stealth mounts & where can i get them from?
We sell them. MST Brand
@@ScaleScience do you have a website so i can order some
@@R1CHTHEK1D ScaleSciencerc.com but we are sold out!
@@ScaleScience ordered some from drifted.nl, thank you for taking time to reply, loving the channel
Week 4?
Coming! Had to save some $$
@@ScaleScience much excite
Why the black gloves, your not working with any chemicals
Fingerprints are the enemy. Easiest way to maintain dexterity and eliminate fingerprints on the nice shells.
Radio
news flash 99.9999999% of artist are not using free hand ... lol ... use a ruler to get those straight lines or tape it out and spray it down ...
that camber setting is wack. 4-6 degrees is where you want to be
All I’m seeing is you want to challenge! I’m so down! Best 2/3 even let’s go
Still dreaming