Heck yea! Thanks for all the specs, so excited to see how far this little car can go without anything crazy added mostly just a hand full of small tweaks makes a world of difference, I too am excited to see the difference with top mount and 26t?
The 12 degrees of camber in the front, is that the setting you were trying to achieve? Or would you dial in less camber with an adjustable turnbuckle, or more? I guess my question is, is 12 degrees in the front desirable for rc drifting in general? Great video, loving this series!
12 degrees of camber was necessary to achieve a flat contact patch on the lead tire in drift which aids front end grip and handling dynamics. Also helps the tires return to center a little easier.
PLEASE post part numbers with URLs or in the video somewhere. Tracking some of this stuff down (yokomo ends for example), is a bit difficult for newbies!
@@JasonBellRC they aren’t listed. Shoot me a message on Facebook to our scale science page or on IG to the same. We will get you all squared away with a personal touch.
I’ve been loving the series bro good shit. I believe it’s a Subaru with the green rims would you happen to know where to get that body that thing is sick?
What set of shims should I pick up for the lower camber on the front arms? I run the YR turnbuckles but it didn’t include one for the lower camber you had shimmed to 8mm
We use a variety you can find shim kits on Amain, Amazon, super G, lots of retailers. Biggest importance is getting M3 shims and get a variety of thicknesses. I like .25/.5 1mm and 2mm for base shims as you can build pretty much any size that way.
so I've tried a similar tune to copy your setup running 8mm on the lower arm 6mm on the top and a bout 14.5 in the mid to match the measurements, and running a reveD servo too and larger MST servohorn/saver, I cant reach full steering lock.. Im still running my servo in the stock postion, and I've also tuned remote and tried to gain more throw from the servo but I cant get full lock, is that due to not running the servo in the same configuration/positioning as yours?
No sir. There’s an adjustment point between the two ball cups that go from the servo to the steering wiper linkage. Make that linkage longer and you’ll have more throw. Don’t forget to re-center your horn after you do.
@@ScaleSciencehmmm okay cause I did the same measurement 12mm and my front wheels are pointing out words a lot But then I tried 14mm and the wheels went back to normal not to aggressive or unless that’s completely normal for this setup
@@Fbody_123it would be much easier to reply to this if you could post this maybe on fb so we could see a photo, maybe a quicker back and forth? We have a 7K+ member group on fb. Scale Science RC. Jump in there and make a post and let’s talk setup
Thanks for going over the setup in detail. One question about the front lowers.... Stock I have 5mm of shim adding 2mm gives me 7mm total but you said 8mm total after you added yours.... I'm building the classic kit maybe the rtr comes with an extra mm???
@@ScaleScience I noticed a bit of binding at full lock & full droop l; curious if the adjustable tie rod fixed that or if I should shave a bit off the lower arm/spindle where it's touching
Update on the NGE is coming soon. I’ve been so dang busy with the shop I haven’t had a huge opportunity to drive and when I am it’s on this rtr. Hopefully soon I can come back with some thoughts from myself and a few other locals with the NGE
Will, anytime you change pinions you’ll want to make sure and properly adjust the gear mesh between the pinion and spur by loosening the motor’s mounted position and ensuring good lash between.
@@ScaleScience did you tighten the motor back up all the way? That's what I did and it's basically cooked all the teeth on the spur 😅 Every time I let go of accelerate as well it would lock up instantly. Definitely had to much pressure on it from tightening the motor back once I wedged the pinion on
Great vid. Thx for doing this and look forward to seeing what you guys think of the high motor mount position 😉
Love the layout of this series, I appreciate the uploads! 🔥
Thanks for tuning in!
Loving this series, great content and great information!
Great one nice hobby, from PH
As always great video, very informative!
Thanks Remy!
Doin a good job fella!
Heck yea! Thanks for all the specs, so excited to see how far this little car can go without anything crazy added mostly just a hand full of small tweaks makes a world of difference, I too am excited to see the difference with top mount and 26t?
Awesome! The lights look great! I just did the same thing to mine and so can’t believe how bright they are!
It’s awesome right? What kit did you go with?
@@ScaleScience I ended up going with generic Amazon bulbs and then a switch so I can turn them on and off from channel 3.
Hell yeah more knowledge drop!!!!!
Soo cool bro, good job., stuning series
Futaba for the win. :)
Transmitter & receiver next? Thus the futaba receiver in this vid?
What a legend! Way to pay attention Eric!!
Cover the backs of the leds with black Tulip fabric paint. It blocks unwanted light.
Great tip thank you!
The 12 degrees of camber in the front, is that the setting you were trying to achieve? Or would you dial in less camber with an adjustable turnbuckle, or more? I guess my question is, is 12 degrees in the front desirable for rc drifting in general? Great video, loving this series!
12 degrees of camber was necessary to achieve a flat contact patch on the lead tire in drift which aids front end grip and handling dynamics. Also helps the tires return to center a little easier.
@@ScaleScience appreciate the info, I'll adjust mine accordingly 👍
PLEASE post part numbers with URLs or in the video somewhere. Tracking some of this stuff down (yokomo ends for example), is a bit difficult for newbies!
Buy them from us!
@@ScaleScience Can’t find them on your website? Only see 2 pages of products.
@@JasonBellRC they aren’t listed. Shoot me a message on Facebook to our scale science page or on IG to the same. We will get you all squared away with a personal touch.
I’ve been loving the series bro good shit. I believe it’s a Subaru with the green rims would you happen to know where to get that body that thing is sick?
It’s an old Yokomo shell!
What set of shims should I pick up for the lower camber on the front arms? I run the YR turnbuckles but it didn’t include one for the lower camber you had shimmed to 8mm
We use a variety you can find shim kits on Amain, Amazon, super G, lots of retailers. Biggest importance is getting M3 shims and get a variety of thicknesses. I like .25/.5 1mm and 2mm for base shims as you can build pretty much any size that way.
so I've tried a similar tune to copy your setup running 8mm on the lower arm 6mm on the top and a bout 14.5 in the mid to match the measurements, and running a reveD servo too and larger MST servohorn/saver, I cant reach full steering lock.. Im still running my servo in the stock postion, and I've also tuned remote and tried to gain more throw from the servo but I cant get full lock, is that due to not running the servo in the same configuration/positioning as yours?
No sir. There’s an adjustment point between the two ball cups that go from the servo to the steering wiper linkage. Make that linkage longer and you’ll have more throw. Don’t forget to re-center your horn after you do.
@@ScaleScience thanks heaps I cant wait to try this out
Great video! What size and brand is the old black f100 body?
1:10 it’s an old Vaterra Body
When I had my rmx I cut the chassis so that the rear arms wouldn’t hit the deck to give me more droop same with the front lower arms.
Good idea, I’m going to try this!
i did the same and it was great
I did all these mods added the shims but now I have a lot of toe
Adjust it! Make sure your steering rack is same as ours and just keep tabs on the Ackerman throughout travel range 🤌
@@ScaleSciencehmmm okay cause I did the same measurement 12mm and my front wheels are pointing out words a lot But then I tried 14mm and the wheels went back to normal not to aggressive or unless that’s completely normal for this setup
@@Fbody_123it would be much easier to reply to this if you could post this maybe on fb so we could see a photo, maybe a quicker back and forth? We have a 7K+ member group on fb. Scale Science RC. Jump in there and make a post and let’s talk setup
@@ScaleScience okay sounds good I sent pictures and a description of what’s happening hopefully you guys see it thank you 🙏🏾
Thanks for going over the setup in detail. One question about the front lowers.... Stock I have 5mm of shim adding 2mm gives me 7mm total but you said 8mm total after you added yours.... I'm building the classic kit maybe the rtr comes with an extra mm???
Make it 8
@@ScaleScience I noticed a bit of binding at full lock & full droop l; curious if the adjustable tie rod fixed that or if I should shave a bit off the lower arm/spindle where it's touching
@@odomandr post photos on our discord or fb pages so it’s easier to see the issue
How did you guys attach the steering servo to the chassis… double sided sticky or screws?
Screws. Sticky tape wouldn’t be a good idea
What chassis is that c10 on? Is there one that would fit mst rtr?
Not entirely sure! The c10 bodies are from vaterra and in the low motor layout, it will fit perfect, otherwise you may have to do some cutting!
Any thoughts and tuning for the nge? Wondering what you had to change as far as front end wise to make it drive better. Caster? Camber?
Update on the NGE is coming soon. I’ve been so dang busy with the shop I haven’t had a huge opportunity to drive and when I am it’s on this rtr. Hopefully soon I can come back with some thoughts from myself and a few other locals with the NGE
Did the 24 tooth pinion slide straight on? Or did you have to loosen the motor mount first?
Will, anytime you change pinions you’ll want to make sure and properly adjust the gear mesh between the pinion and spur by loosening the motor’s mounted position and ensuring good lash between.
@@ScaleScience did you tighten the motor back up all the way?
That's what I did and it's basically cooked all the teeth on the spur 😅
Every time I let go of accelerate as well it would lock up instantly. Definitely had to much pressure on it from tightening the motor back once I wedged the pinion on
@@will8325 yeah, you’ll want to address some proper techniques for setting pinion mesh. Tons of helpful tutorials out there.
What shock oil weight are you guys running?
The stock MST dampers are dry in the RTR’s and 100CST(10 wt silicon) in the Yokomo dampers.
When will the lights be back in stock?
Message us on Fb or Instagram and I’ll get you squared up on some lights!
How does the led bulbs stay in the light bucket? Did you use glue?
Yes glued in. I prefer shoe goo for longevity (but it takes longer to dry) or hot glue for quick install (doesn’t hold up as long if you hit stuff.)
Thanks for your reply. I am worried of unable to remove the glued LED bulb when the time comes of needing to replace them.
@@demonslayer9772 that’s why I use shoe goo and hot glue. Removeable if need be
What’s on the wheels where did you get them
The fronts? They were just an old set I had lying around
I have this exact same car. Are the dimensions for the shims, 3.1mm id x 3mm w x 6mm od
Roughly!
Can someone please give me the name of the camber gauge used in this video?
Our model is an integy unit however it’s dated in design. The new yeah racing stations are quite nice!
@@ScaleScience Awesome, thanks so much!!
no rear camber?
Very little for our surface.
Do you have any rc drift cars for sale?
Tons come on down
Moop