smaller circlip pliers are common; ; KD make an inexpensive pair , even with interchangeable tips. Like you said, screw drivers may damage the bore and do nothing for install. That wire brush does doody squat good for iron bore, The wire wont true up the bore what so ever. There are $20 ball hones that work on both F&R masters on these era airheads. A NON-honed bore surface will poorly seal the new piston seals. A wire polish is a total mystery as to a if its the proper surface roughness. BMW have cast iron front master cyls, which are vulnerable to rust. After honing the cylinder lightly, you need to inspect the bore wall for pitting or inadequate honing. I had a pit almost opposite of the inlet ports which wouldnt hone away ( low mile desert climate but 50 years!) . Any pitting will rip up the seal lip on the new piston. There are shops that line these with brass tube; appleton did mine, pretty slow too ! Not really a big fan of blowing gunk and cleaner down the attached brake lines either. In all honesty, up your game before presenting ( or going "pro")
Hey man, I just wanted to ask for your advice as I know you know way more. So I've got an R45 '80 and it's my first airhead and I am not very savvy with engineering. It has only one front disc brake, so I made a project for myself to install a second disc brake. I have found the original caliber, disc, and brake pads. But I am stuck and figuring out what else do I need to consider when installing the second disc brake. Obviously, I understand that I need to hoo it up to the master cylinder kinda thing. And I can find the plug under the dashboard for the second brake. So I am wondering if I just buy the brake line and plug it into the main systems and that's it? Or do I need to do anything extra like upgrading the master cylinder and all that? as I've said. I understand very little, so just want to kinda grasp the extent of this. Cos in my mind, it just seems that I screw everything on, and then just connect the caliber to the master system and that's it.
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Love airhead content! Please do more of the 1977-1995 boxer models! :)
We will!
smaller circlip pliers are common; ; KD make an inexpensive pair , even with interchangeable tips. Like you said, screw drivers may damage the bore and do nothing for install.
That wire brush does doody squat good for iron bore, The wire wont true up the bore what so ever. There are $20 ball hones that work on both F&R masters on these era airheads.
A NON-honed bore surface will poorly seal the new piston seals. A wire polish is a total mystery as to a if its the proper surface roughness.
BMW have cast iron front master cyls, which are vulnerable to rust. After honing the cylinder lightly, you need to inspect the bore wall for pitting or inadequate honing.
I had a pit almost opposite of the inlet ports which wouldnt hone away ( low mile desert climate but 50 years!) . Any pitting will rip up the seal lip on the new piston.
There are shops that line these with brass tube; appleton did mine, pretty slow too !
Not really a big fan of blowing gunk and cleaner down the attached brake lines either. In all honesty, up your game before presenting ( or going "pro")
Hey man, I just wanted to ask for your advice as I know you know way more. So I've got an R45 '80 and it's my first airhead and I am not very savvy with engineering.
It has only one front disc brake, so I made a project for myself to install a second disc brake. I have found the original caliber, disc, and brake pads. But I am stuck and figuring out what else do I need to consider when installing the second disc brake. Obviously, I understand that I need to hoo it up to the master cylinder kinda thing. And I can find the plug under the dashboard for the second brake. So I am wondering if I just buy the brake line and plug it into the main systems and that's it? Or do I need to do anything extra like upgrading the master cylinder and all that?
as I've said. I understand very little, so just want to kinda grasp the extent of this. Cos in my mind, it just seems that I screw everything on, and then just connect the caliber to the master system and that's it.
Please do Airhead wheel bearings and swing arm pivot bearings.Thank you in advance.
Did each step but now I can’t get any pressure to build when pumping the breaks-got any ideas? The blender valve is closed
@2:51
wooooo hoooo
Master cylinder kit no longer available??
Not true keep looking.
You put that nasty rubber boot on the customer's seat. I couldn't bother to watch another second!
OMG!
nasty job , it can be done much more cleaner , the Breakcleaner is not good for Rubber Parts . They fell apart .