I have had parrots for over 50 years. Last year I had to rehome my flock, because I developed bird fancier lungs. I love watching your videos to keep me connected. When I was younger we didn’t have the internet and there were few good books on parrots available. I never used treats and targeting to train/tame my birds. Instead I used permission based training. Once they lost their fear of me, their natural curiosity and social nature made them interested to interact with me. I never pushed them and would read their body language for permission. I have never been bitten by any of my birds, accept for play nips when they were young birds playing with me lovingly. The advantage of permission based training, is that you develop good communication with your flock and the trust bonds are stronger. It may require longer at the start, but the long term benefits are worth it. It is important to do things together with your flock that you all can enjoy to develop those strong bonds.
Thanks for sharing! Were you doing this with parrots from the time they were babies? Did you ever do it with an adult parrot that already lived many years of not being well socialized with humans?
@@lxc3909 Yes not all my early birds were young birds. It takes longer, but I think it is even more important with older birds to respect their body language. I would just sit beside them and talk and sing soothingly. I think it helped that I grew up with a mother and grand parents who loved and feed wild birds. I was enamoured with many birds like hummingbirds, which were like mystical creatures to me as a boy. You learn patience and understanding just sitting and watching their natural behaviour.
@@MrCornweda I have no experience with baby, or young, birds. I've only adopted adult, "rehome" parrots, the youngest being about 11. It sure can take a while, if you let the parrot set the pace. I went that route, as I was in no hurry, and I wanted to see how it would play out. I understand why some people would use target training and positive reinforcement to speed up the process, though. Giving them full liberty, in my main, open living space let them find the place they felt safe (of course I had to provide good options), and let them observe me to get comfortable with my body language, too. Parrots are quite special.
0:03 Yikes, that target stick looks quite sharp! This is a great video. It is very instructive to see so much "failure" where two pros are involved, meaning, it's not a technique issue or misreading the parrot. It definitely illustrated a circumstance where food needs to be they key motivator. I suspect Sparky was never a cuddly parrot, given full liberty, fulltime, which I think can be great (but I know from experience it has its own set of challenges). Anyway, Sparky will never "want to" step up on Amy's hand (for now), because Sparky has no real relationship with Amy, yet. Thus, food needs to be used to motivate him.
Once diet conversion is complete I think there will be huge improvement for there will be more motivation for the step ups… Maybe more target training for confidence building? And perhaps a review of the Birdtricks courses might help. The fact that the owner is seeking help says there is potential for dramatic improvement in time. 💜☮️🕊
Congratulations on your 360k subs! I’m so happy to see it grow This hasn’t got much to do with this exact video but about parrot food (Just my rant of nutri-berries) I knew Nutri-berries were bad but not as bad as I now know the ingredients have for most Nutri-berries (I read the ingredients of about 5) On the front it’s says USDA certified organic, made in America (most of them), nutritionally balanced complete diet (most brand will say this nutrition berries is for budgies, conures, cockatoos ect even though they’re exactly the same) Corn, soybean meal, corn SYRUP, SUGAR, GLUCOSE SYRUP, VEGETABLE OIL, xantham gum, L-lynsine, vitamins C, B12, E, D and A There were other ingredients but those were the ones that were put in all most all of them and the ones higher on the list and lots of other ingredients that you can’t pronounce (which if you can’t pronounce the ingredients you know it’s bad; most of the time)
This owner, I find, has no confidence in holding her bird. She’s not handling him well so it’s not rocket science this bird is wanting to step up and reaches for her shoulder. The hand has to be firmly offered in a firm position as well.
@@mwGoosman all depends on what she’s willing to do to get to that point. Birdtricks couldn’t do much and can’t do much until she changes that bird’s diet first.
It’s not just about having no confidence in holding her bird. It’s also about not being able to read her bird’s signals. It prevents her from taking control of the situation.
@@MultiRogergyou have to set up the situation to succeed though. If the bird is on diet conversion and has no food motivation and there's no personal bond to work on... One thing at a time. :)
My birdies have unlimited to harrisons pellets as well but they are at motivation level 4-5 when I offer treats. So they have the opposite problem of too much motivation.
my amazon does the same, but he doesn't bite, he puts his head down for scratches i guess, if he doesn't want too he actually go away or give me some sort of no sound, he ONLY steps up on my hand when i take the whole cage to the garden where he is actually happy, idk its just the body language, he scratches himself, stretch and what not, when he's in the garden he steps up "not all the time" but he's happy, idk i suck @ birding stuff =)
what is a pretty good macaw for free flight that is quieter than others. I have been researching about macaws and have always wanted to free flight a macaw and own one, currently I have 2 cinnamon pineapple green cheek conures and a 3 budges I would like to try something new and that I can free flight (I love your vids they inspire me make me happy and when I'm with bird I feel like I fit in you are AMAZING)
Avoid fruit. Birds are extremely sensitive to sugar and can cause behavior issues. Spinach is fine. Maybe look into a supplement to add to pellets or veg?
Hey Jamie, I know this isn’t related so much to the video but I have a Quaker parrot named Paco and he is very cage aggressive and I’ve handled him everyday and he all a sudden turned very aggressive and I’m not sure what to do. He is on a pellet diet( Marlene blend ) with 12 hours of sleep so I was wondering if you had any tips that I could use because I would love for him to be as loving as he was before and also he was hand fed, but thank you for reading this if you do and I would love if you responded! Edit: I also have a sun conure, budgie, blacked capped conure and a Catalina macaw and they are all very friendly but I would say my black capped conure is kinda shy but he is not like Paco so I didn’t know if that was something you would need to know to help me with Paco
@@DragonflameWolfpaw well I don’t think it’s all hormones but yes it is apart of it but he has been like this for a good while now so I don’t think it’s all hormonal behavior
If it's a sudden thing maybe bring him to the vet? Could potentially be a new health issues you're unaware of and making the guy grumpy or upset.. Or maybe flock issues. Maybe there's a issue within the flock you haven't noticed? Hope that helps! Just a couple things to think about
I have had parrots for over 50 years. Last year I had to rehome my flock, because I developed bird fancier lungs. I love watching your videos to keep me connected.
When I was younger we didn’t have the internet and there were few good books on parrots available. I never used treats and targeting to train/tame my birds. Instead I used permission based training. Once they lost their fear of me, their natural curiosity and social nature made them interested to interact with me. I never pushed them and would read their body language for permission. I have never been bitten by any of my birds, accept for play nips when they were young birds playing with me lovingly.
The advantage of permission based training, is that you develop good communication with your flock and the trust bonds are stronger. It may require longer at the start, but the long term benefits are worth it. It is important to do things together with your flock that you all can enjoy to develop those strong bonds.
Thanks for sharing! Were you doing this with parrots from the time they were babies? Did you ever do it with an adult parrot that already lived many years of not being well socialized with humans?
@@lxc3909 Yes not all my early birds were young birds. It takes longer, but I think it is even more important with older birds to respect their body language. I would just sit beside them and talk and sing soothingly. I think it helped that I grew up with a mother and grand parents who loved and feed wild birds. I was enamoured with many birds like hummingbirds, which were like mystical creatures to me as a boy. You learn patience and understanding just sitting and watching their natural behaviour.
@@MrCornweda I have no experience with baby, or young, birds. I've only adopted adult, "rehome" parrots, the youngest being about 11. It sure can take a while, if you let the parrot set the pace. I went that route, as I was in no hurry, and I wanted to see how it would play out. I understand why some people would use target training and positive reinforcement to speed up the process, though. Giving them full liberty, in my main, open living space let them find the place they felt safe (of course I had to provide good options), and let them observe me to get comfortable with my body language, too. Parrots are quite special.
0:03 Yikes, that target stick looks quite sharp! This is a great video. It is very instructive to see so much "failure" where two pros are involved, meaning, it's not a technique issue or misreading the parrot. It definitely illustrated a circumstance where food needs to be they key motivator. I suspect Sparky was never a cuddly parrot, given full liberty, fulltime, which I think can be great (but I know from experience it has its own set of challenges). Anyway, Sparky will never "want to" step up on Amy's hand (for now), because Sparky has no real relationship with Amy, yet. Thus, food needs to be used to motivate him.
I’m so glad you show - the good, bad and ugly. I learned so much. Keep up the amazing training.😊
Once diet conversion is complete I think there will be huge improvement for there will be more motivation for the step ups… Maybe more target training for confidence building? And perhaps a review of the Birdtricks courses might help. The fact that the owner is seeking help says there is potential for dramatic improvement in time. 💜☮️🕊
I always love your videos and learn something every time
I learned from this. ❤
Love your videos 😊
These videos are so helpful, thank you!❤❤
Congratulations on your 360k subs! I’m so happy to see it grow
This hasn’t got much to do with this exact video but about parrot food
(Just my rant of nutri-berries)
I knew Nutri-berries were bad but not as bad as I now know the ingredients have for most Nutri-berries (I read the ingredients of about 5)
On the front it’s says USDA certified organic, made in America (most of them), nutritionally balanced complete diet (most brand will say this nutrition berries is for budgies, conures, cockatoos ect even though they’re exactly the same)
Corn, soybean meal, corn SYRUP, SUGAR, GLUCOSE SYRUP, VEGETABLE OIL, xantham gum, L-lynsine, vitamins C, B12, E, D and A
There were other ingredients but those were the ones that were put in all most all of them and the ones higher on the list
and lots of other ingredients that you can’t pronounce (which if you can’t pronounce the ingredients you know it’s bad; most of the time)
The more of your video's I see, the more I find working with parrot's is very similar to working with horses.
Awesome vlog you guys!! Your knowledge of birds is amazing!! Hope everyone is doing well!! Have a nice day !!
This owner, I find, has no confidence in holding her bird. She’s not handling him well so it’s not rocket science this bird is wanting to step up and reaches for her shoulder. The hand has to be firmly offered in a firm position as well.
Agree with you, if she cant improve her relationship with bird after the guidance then this bird's future....boredom, loneliness kills birds.
The cool thing is that she's getting help and can improve the relationship.
@@mwGoosman all depends on what she’s willing to do to get to that point. Birdtricks couldn’t do much and can’t do much until she changes that bird’s diet first.
It’s not just about having no confidence in holding her bird. It’s also about not being able to read her bird’s signals. It prevents her from taking control of the situation.
@@MultiRogergyou have to set up the situation to succeed though. If the bird is on diet conversion and has no food motivation and there's no personal bond to work on... One thing at a time. :)
My birdies have unlimited to harrisons pellets as well but they are at motivation level 4-5 when I offer treats. So they have the opposite problem of too much motivation.
my amazon does the same, but he doesn't bite, he puts his head down for scratches i guess, if he doesn't want too he actually go away or give me some sort of no sound, he ONLY steps up on my hand when i take the whole cage to the garden where he is actually happy, idk its just the body language, he scratches himself, stretch and what not, when he's in the garden he steps up "not all the time" but he's happy, idk i suck @ birding stuff =)
what is a pretty good macaw for free flight that is quieter than others. I have been researching about macaws and have always wanted to free flight a macaw and own one, currently I have 2 cinnamon pineapple green cheek conures and a 3 budges I would like to try something new and that I can free flight (I love your vids they inspire me make me happy and when I'm with bird I feel like I fit in you are AMAZING)
All macaw species are very loud, I wouldn't say there's one specific species that is quieter than the others.
Spinach and strawberry are ok feed to iron sensitive birds?
Avoid fruit. Birds are extremely sensitive to sugar and can cause behavior issues. Spinach is fine. Maybe look into a supplement to add to pellets or veg?
@@FukaiKokoro Lory and mynah mainly eat fruits but also iron sensitive birds.
Hey Jamie, I know this isn’t related so much to the video but I have a Quaker parrot named Paco and he is very cage aggressive and I’ve handled him everyday and he all a sudden turned very aggressive and I’m not sure what to do. He is on a pellet diet( Marlene blend ) with 12 hours of sleep so I was wondering if you had any tips that I could use because I would love for him to be as loving as he was before and also he was hand fed, but thank you for reading this if you do and I would love if you responded!
Edit: I also have a sun conure, budgie, blacked capped conure and a Catalina macaw and they are all very friendly but I would say my black capped conure is kinda shy but he is not like Paco so I didn’t know if that was something you would need to know to help me with Paco
Sounds hormonal.
@@DragonflameWolfpaw well I don’t think it’s all hormones but yes it is apart of it but he has been like this for a good while now so I don’t think it’s all hormonal behavior
If it's a sudden thing maybe bring him to the vet? Could potentially be a new health issues you're unaware of and making the guy grumpy or upset..
Or maybe flock issues. Maybe there's a issue within the flock you haven't noticed?
Hope that helps! Just a couple things to think about
@@FukaiKokoro ok yeah thank you I’ll look into those things
She been hitting him, that's why he's so snappy at her
I think he has seeing problems like he can see but barely he's acting just like my aunt's bird and we discovered the bird had vision problems
Would he be as willing to fly if he had vision problems? Does your aunt’s bird do a lot of flying despite not seeing well?
I doubt it, a bird with vision issues is fearful and won’t real fly .
@@gigihenderson8567no, a bird with vision issues is fearful. That bird wasn’t. He wasn’t interested in stepping up .