Dont knock your standards Joey, you've come on a long way over the last couple of years & your attention to detail shows. As you strive to improve it shows in your videos. Clearly one of the best TH-camrs when it comes to port & component replacements.
Nice work Joey, I don't think a lot of people appreciate how tiny and fiddly this work actually is as it doesn't come across when filmed with a microscope, but as you mentioned, practise makes perfect.
This video is absolutely invaluable, one of the best guides I've seen because of how genuine it is happening on a real fix, and your realistic advice. Please do more videos like this for different potential scenarios Joey!
This work is magnificent, very well done. Most people can't understand how tiny those components are, to arrange everything so precisely requires a very steady hand
I LOVE doing trace repairs! It’s somehow soothing to do for me and I actually look for consoles on eBay that is in need of trace repair. Doesn’t matter if it’s the HDMI port or fan or whatever
That is an amazing repair, your skills have got to a very high level, I love to see people’s skill level going up and up. I don’t use your method I use the longer approach by laying new flat copper pads and traces with epoxy. It takes much longer to do and would not be viable in commercial environment. Using my method its sometime hard to even see that a repair has been done. I don’t think I have the skill needed for your method!
Thank you joey, I am attempting some trace repair myself, and will find this useful, now I know that my solder mask didn't stick, coz I didn't clean the flux 😅 . Great video 👍
Rubber abrasive dremel bits really work great for cleaning up and removing solder mask and conformal coating on really fragile traces. Also the added benefit of having many different shapes and polishes the copper traces. It scales up nicely if you have bigger stuff to clear out just get higher grit bits.
Brilliant vid, and very educational. I suffer from very large hands/fingers and really struggle with trace/pad repairs. From this I definitely understood my most common mistake - always using wire that is too thin. Knowing that I can use heavier wire will make a huge difference, thank you. One suggestion, why didn't you solder short pieces of wire on the good pads, so that all the HDMI connectors would sit at the same height, saving the additional soldering step.
Great overview! Something i've done for trace repairs is to squish the wires flat at the tip where the pad would be to make them both thinner and wider, mimicking the real pad. I'd generally use my knippex parallel jaw pliers for that, but at that size, anything with smooth jaws will do. I'd also say that once you've cleaned out the through holes, I'd suggest dropping the port on at that point, then coming back to fill the through holes with your iron. You dont need to put as much heat into the board that way, IMO.
8:56 For high speed signals like HDMI and USB, the length and shape of the trace repair wire starts to really matter. If there's a good distance between where the trace is broken and where the repair wire is soldered, I'd disconnect or remove the trace stub. Even if the connection is good, a long stub can prevent HDMI/USB/etc from functioning properly. When repairing a power trace or a low-speed signal it's fine to keep the stub connected.
I love watching your Videos! also this one with all your additional comments is great! Because of your Videos, i feel confident to at least open up a device, and have a look whats wrong. Thanks to this, I was able to get two PS2 Slims back to life that where previously not receiving any power! thank you for sharing!
Great job! You make it look so easy. What is the size of the wire you tried using and the one you ended up using? Also if this is starting some sort of educational series I would like to see a video that from the very basics shows how to determine the issue with a device with no power. Where to start. What components to check. What mode to put multimeter in. What readings to look for on the multimeter for each type of component. What signs of board damage look like. What additional equipment may prove helpful. I've seen so many of your videos but having it broken down in an educational format would be greatly valuable.
Nice take. I would add one additional step in the process. The enameled wires you use, I normally press on them at the end with pliers. This ensures a smaller wider trace where they're supposed to be. Almost flush like the factory and also easier to solder the hdmi port when the time comes. No need to use soldering iron later since it lies flat
@ Watching your Channel since S01E10-20 I guess and it‘s a journey i‘m proud to be part of :D I repair Xbox classics since 5-6 years now and have also done first level PCB repairs for years. Your channel, your work is such a benefit for everyone wanting to repair their stuff. Your explanations are the best 😉 keep up your vibe ❤️ thank you for every hour you put into this ❤️☝🏻🤓
I saw trace repair videos where they covered the entire wires with coating, then once the coating is solid, scape away just enough to tin them and eventually to connect. Also in situations like this, I would consider adding pieces of wires on the good pads, so the legs are all leveled. Maybe worth a try next time.
You're wearing glasses? Excellent! Awesome Repair, Education, and Video, Mr Joey!! Did you have any smaller diameter jumper wire? "what is solder mask?", it's what solder uses when it goes to a masquerade ball. Thank you. 😀
Did you ever try "repair solder pads"? They are Sometimes a Bit Harder to apply, but provide better contact for the Pins and are flat as the original traces.
Hi joey Love the videos and do a little repair at home myself so videos like this are a great help. I do have a question on the wire sizes you use and if you have any links for them ? Steve
This is a great repair. I'm just wondering how long a repair like this will last? Taking out and putting back in the HDMI cable can put a lot of stress on the port.
Howsit man, epic videos as always. Wanted to know, when you were soldering the 4 wires to the chip that had 4 pins coming out of it, your soldering iron obviously rests very close the chip you are soldering to. Does the heat from the soldering iron damage the chip itself if you keep it there too long, also, what is too long of a time? It seems as if you have the iron close to that chip for about 1.5 seconds, but lets say you dont get a good solder and you need to apply your iron for 4 seconds. Will it not damage that chip? Chip at 8:55
I've not done this kind of work before but had an thought. Would it not be better to solder the HDMI port on first and then attach the trace wires to the top of the HDMI pins? That way you wouldn't have the height discrepancy that made the end so hard.
What flux are you using and what are you using to clean it after soldering? I tried trace repair myself the last 2 days on a gtx 1650 Low profile and was successful on the first try. I gotta say this cause I’m happy af 😂 Keep it up and love your work!
just put the connector in first next time and then solder the wire on top of the legs, much easyer and no problem that the legs touch the old good pins on the board, if you have wire under it, you lose hight to solder to good traces.
I think it’s a mistake to run the wires under the connector. I think it would be better to solder them end-to-end to the connectors of the port. This way the port will sit better in its place and the ground contacts will be better soldered. One way or another, the work was done responsibly.
Dont knock your standards Joey, you've come on a long way over the last couple of years & your attention to detail shows. As you strive to improve it shows in your videos. Clearly one of the best TH-camrs when it comes to port & component replacements.
Thank you Ashley, very kind of you bud.
I love all your videos but this style of tutorial is so good. I'd love a regular series tackling similar issues to pass on the knowledge.
Perfect, thanks for the feedback Richard!
THIS is the type of videos i wanted to recommend a while ago. Should also make a separate video for reballing, and putting an ic back on the board! 🍍
Trace repair is an absolute pain in the backside but practise makes perfect & id say your doing a dang good job Joey.
Thank you bud!
he is the best at wat he does
Nice work Joey, I don't think a lot of people appreciate how tiny and fiddly this work actually is as it doesn't come across when filmed with a microscope, but as you mentioned, practise makes perfect.
This is some of the neatest trace repair I have seen Joey.
Thanks Joey you’re the best, only suggestion would be to include the wire size used and tip size as well. Thanks for all you do happy new years.
Don’t have the equipment or patience to do this job, but loved watching this. Thanks for the lesson. You are awesome.
Wow you are really getting good at this. Its the most beautiful trace repair i have seen so far.You should be proud of yourself.
This video is absolutely invaluable, one of the best guides I've seen because of how genuine it is happening on a real fix, and your realistic advice. Please do more videos like this for different potential scenarios Joey!
Trace repair may be one of the hardest things to do but it's my absolute favorite thing g to watch.
This work is magnificent, very well done. Most people can't understand how tiny those components are, to arrange everything so precisely requires a very steady hand
Looking back where you came from. You’ve come a very long way Joey. And that’s an incredible achievement.
Very kind Indy, I hope you’re well!
I LOVE doing trace repairs! It’s somehow soothing to do for me and I actually look for consoles on eBay that is in need of trace repair. Doesn’t matter if it’s the HDMI port or fan or whatever
That is an amazing repair, your skills have got to a very high level, I love to see people’s skill level going up and up. I don’t use your method I use the longer approach by laying new flat copper pads and traces with epoxy. It takes much longer to do and would not be viable in commercial environment. Using my method its sometime hard to even see that a repair has been done. I don’t think I have the skill needed for your method!
We have a teaching GURU I might be a Technician/I.T but I still learn so much from you thank you, Joey. It is an Honor to be part of the JDT family
Love the voice over
Thanks bud!
Thank you joey, I am attempting some trace repair myself, and will find this useful, now I know that my solder mask didn't stick, coz I didn't clean the flux 😅 . Great video 👍
Exactly! Nice one Govid, thank you :)
Excellent tutorial,more please. Glad to see you are over the virus.
Rubber abrasive dremel bits really work great for cleaning up and removing solder mask and conformal coating on really fragile traces. Also the added benefit of having many different shapes and polishes the copper traces. It scales up nicely if you have bigger stuff to clear out just get higher grit bits.
my hand is no longer steady enough to do that kind of repair anymore. your technique is very good
Brilliant vid, and very educational. I suffer from very large hands/fingers and really struggle with trace/pad repairs. From this I definitely understood my most common mistake - always using wire that is too thin. Knowing that I can use heavier wire will make a huge difference, thank you. One suggestion, why didn't you solder short pieces of wire on the good pads, so that all the HDMI connectors would sit at the same height, saving the additional soldering step.
Man you make it look so easy 😭🤣
Great overview!
Something i've done for trace repairs is to squish the wires flat at the tip where the pad would be to make them both thinner and wider, mimicking the real pad. I'd generally use my knippex parallel jaw pliers for that, but at that size, anything with smooth jaws will do.
I'd also say that once you've cleaned out the through holes, I'd suggest dropping the port on at that point, then coming back to fill the through holes with your iron. You dont need to put as much heat into the board that way, IMO.
Joey this style of video is so amazing could teach people how to do things keep this style going
Absolutely loved this video, really informative. More of the same please Joey.
Oh hey, this is great! I feel like you were talking about this in the last livestream. Didn't know you had a video ready to go.
8:56 For high speed signals like HDMI and USB, the length and shape of the trace repair wire starts to really matter. If there's a good distance between where the trace is broken and where the repair wire is soldered, I'd disconnect or remove the trace stub. Even if the connection is good, a long stub can prevent HDMI/USB/etc from functioning properly. When repairing a power trace or a low-speed signal it's fine to keep the stub connected.
Brilliant job it looks like it needed a lot of patience
I admire your patience, Bud. I don't think I could bring that up..
I love watching your Videos!
also this one with all your additional comments is great!
Because of your Videos, i feel confident to at least open up a device, and have a look whats wrong.
Thanks to this, I was able to get two PS2 Slims back to life that where previously not receiving any power!
thank you for sharing!
This was a fantastic video. Thank you! This style of video is very helpful and appreciated.
Great job! You make it look so easy. What is the size of the wire you tried using and the one you ended up using?
Also if this is starting some sort of educational series I would like to see a video that from the very basics shows how to determine the issue with a device with no power. Where to start. What components to check. What mode to put multimeter in. What readings to look for on the multimeter for each type of component. What signs of board damage look like. What additional equipment may prove helpful. I've seen so many of your videos but having it broken down in an educational format would be greatly valuable.
Woohoo traice repair 🎉 thank you so much ❤️
Nice take. I would add one additional step in the process. The enameled wires you use, I normally press on them at the end with pliers. This ensures a smaller wider trace where they're supposed to be. Almost flush like the factory and also easier to solder the hdmi port when the time comes. No need to use soldering iron later since it lies flat
Ooo this is a great tip! Will have to try this for sure.
Beautiful job. I thought the wires looked a bit thick, but it worked great.
Thanks!
Repair Artist ❤
Ahh thanks :)
@ Watching your Channel since S01E10-20 I guess and it‘s a journey i‘m proud to be part of :D
I repair Xbox classics since 5-6 years now and have also done first level PCB repairs for years. Your channel, your work is such a benefit for everyone wanting to repair their stuff. Your explanations are the best 😉 keep up your vibe ❤️ thank you for every hour you put into this ❤️☝🏻🤓
A smaller tip works better with this style of soldering. Thanks for your content
I saw trace repair videos where they covered the entire wires with coating, then once the coating is solid, scape away just enough to tin them and eventually to connect. Also in situations like this, I would consider adding pieces of wires on the good pads, so the legs are all leveled. Maybe worth a try next time.
You're wearing glasses? Excellent! Awesome Repair, Education, and Video, Mr Joey!! Did you have any smaller diameter jumper wire? "what is solder mask?", it's what solder uses when it goes to a masquerade ball. Thank you. 😀
Very nice job Toltec would be proud
Great job Joey 👏🏻👏🏻
Excellent repair. I'm surprised no one has come up with a spool of flat wire 🤔
Excelente video y muy buena tecnica! Gracias por compartir sus conocimientos con la comunidad!!!
Nice work Joey!
Paul, USA!!!
Great! The only suggestion is to stagger the solder points when you have two traces next to each other so it is easier and they won't short out.
Great stuff. My hands just aren't as steady, I really need to cut down on the coffee!
Damn Joeh, that looks fancy with all the little curves and stuff ya wizzard
i personally love getting boards with ripped races at my shop. they are fun to do and test my skills, also can charge more!
God damn Joey you make that look easy
This was a good stream ❤
What is the chances I’ve been meaning to look to do this thanks 😊
17:43 that face!😆 after that work, a great satisfaction!
verry informative video joey! thankyou for showing us this!
You’re welcome!
Thank you for your service, i have question Does the cooling fan of the Xbox one works on Xbox One s?
Did you ever try "repair solder pads"? They are Sometimes a Bit Harder to apply, but provide better contact for the Pins and are flat as the original traces.
Hi joey
Love the videos and do a little repair at home myself so videos like this are a great help. I do have a question on the wire sizes you use and if you have any links for them ?
Steve
This is a great repair. I'm just wondering how long a repair like this will last? Taking out and putting back in the HDMI cable can put a lot of stress on the port.
G,day from Sydney Australia.
What is the identification of the copper wire to purchase?
🌏
Can you mentioned what is the name and size for the wire you are using?
P.s. this type of videos are great
Love this I have a micro usb connector that needs to be fixed
Hello, can I ask if the wire is varnished or is it pure copper? Thx!
Howsit man, epic videos as always. Wanted to know, when you were soldering the 4 wires to the chip that had 4 pins coming out of it, your soldering iron obviously rests very close the chip you are soldering to. Does the heat from the soldering iron damage the chip itself if you keep it there too long, also, what is too long of a time? It seems as if you have the iron close to that chip for about 1.5 seconds, but lets say you dont get a good solder and you need to apply your iron for 4 seconds. Will it not damage that chip? Chip at 8:55
I've not done this kind of work before but had an thought. Would it not be better to solder the HDMI port on first and then attach the trace wires to the top of the HDMI pins? That way you wouldn't have the height discrepancy that made the end so hard.
What flux are you using and what are you using to clean it after soldering?
I tried trace repair myself the last 2 days on a gtx 1650 Low profile and was successful on the first try. I gotta say this cause I’m happy af 😂
Keep it up and love your work!
Depending on the damaged trace and pad I would try to use the pads/contacts from a non-working Micro SD Card adapter.
Why you don’t use special pad for this type of repair ?
Hi Joey! What is the name of the tip of the soldering iron you are using ?
I believe it’s a BCM2 T15 :)
just put the connector in first next time and then solder the wire on top of the legs, much easyer and no problem that the legs touch the old good pins on the board, if you have wire under it, you lose hight to solder to good traces.
Just curious what temp do you use for your solder iron ? Always know the hot air station temp but not the iron itself.
420c 9 times out of 10 :)
You might find that flattening your wire slightly with a tiny hammer saves you some work under the port.
I think it’s a mistake to run the wires under the connector. I think it would be better to solder them end-to-end to the connectors of the port. This way the port will sit better in its place and the ground contacts will be better soldered. One way or another, the work was done responsibly.
Before you solder the wire in place flatten the wire where the connection is made. Then the connection won't be too high.
Brilliant
thanks for the info
You’re welcome :)
joey teaches tech
😃
Joey, whenever you need a tutorial on how to rip solder traces, let me know :D done it way too many times.
Attempt 38 of asking Joey for his Fluke Multimeter
Y U so keen on exposing 'em coppers? What's your problem with the Fuzz?? 🤣
do i see you wearing glasses now?
You are wearing glasses now?