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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
- I've watched many videos' and I stumbled across this potential problem for the dreaded water leak problem. Regardless of how well you get your evaporator to heat and melt the ice, if the water from the melted ice can't drain drain away efficiently into the drain pan, it will spill over onto the crisper tray!
Worse, it will freeze in the drain tube, preventing future defrost cycles from removing the water, and the cycle just repeats and compounds.
This particular fridge is only 5 years old, and the duck bill was badly restricted with gunk.
TIP: To defrost your fridge evaporator quickly, don't use a hair dryer, you'll warp and damage the seals and covers. Google "Forced Defrost", but proceed with caution and at your own risk.
I have a more, in-depth video, on the same fridge addressing the actual evaporator assembly problems for those willing to dig deeper...
• Samsung RF26 fridge, W...
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I do believe that duck-bill is the problem. I saw another video suggesting a similar fix. I had anticipated drilling or sanding that tip to enlarged it. But when I grabbed mine, it was brittle and simple crumbled effectively giving me a larger opening. I’m counting on your copper insert within the refrigerator not being needed since the water can no longer back up. At least, I chose not to do that. If I do have any freezing, I’ll just strip out some electrical wire and create a similar heat sink as you did. You are only the second presenter that I think identified the real culprit. Others have said buy the replacement kit that doesn’t seem necessary since your solution should solve the water restriction problem.
Gonna try it. I fight this Samsung all the time. Joe, I tend to notice things, and you've got motorcycles and guitars. Man after my own heart.
Bingo. The ice thing happened full force but you're the only source that I found that advised the drain thing, too. Thanks!!
OMG YOU ARE A GENUIS!!! I’ve been having this issue with my refrigerator for years and after having had to defrost it a load of times because of the water not draining properly, but into the inside of my refrigerator AND freezer under both drawers, I took off those little inner drain lines rubber stoppers on back like you showed here and both were sealed shut!!! Once I removed them and snipped about 1/16” off the end to get rid of that little nub and the sealed edges, they both began to drain whatever water was frustratingly still trapped in the internal the water lines after already having fully been defrosted and unplugged for almost 24 hours!!! THAT SOUND WAS MUSIC TO MY EARS!!
When the duck bill is stiff it will not open with weight of water even with center cut apart. Slip a zip tie in the duck bill to keep it open a bit. It will be less likely to reseal itself closed causing ice damage.
We’ve been dealing with the same issue for several years with only a temporary solution. Followed your video and problem solved! Replaced the drains which were more than just dirty. One was actually falling apart. Thank you!
Hope I had found your video before, had the leak problem and went in to check what was causing it, I cleaned and vacuumed the unit, but noticed dirt blockage in this part in your video, flushed it and all seems to be working fine, so to anyone with this issue check this first and do a yearly maintenance to keep it from leaking... thanks for your video, it confirmed what I though caused the issue.
Better yet, wrap a long piece of 14 gauge copper wire around the heat sink going into the drain and run it all the way down into the drain tube. When the defrost heats up, it will transfer the heat to the copper wire and thaw any ice in the tube that leads to the condenser coil pan in the back of the refrigerator.
Samsung has a fix available which is a small strip of aluminum that wrap around the heating tube and extends into the drain hole. It might be free for all that I know. It’s included on all new refrigerators.
Our repair man just cut an 8th inch or so off ... now I'm trying to find video that showed 8 common things to check ... still having problems with everything in fridge freezing. Temp is as warm as can be set ... moved freezer temp up ... ice maker started working again. Able to insert 8 inch zip tie up water outlet so nothing frozen in that section. Oye. Sis is shopping but too expensive to replace at this time. Thanks for the video. Just wanted to confirm your on the right track.
I was going to put my leaky fridge in a bag of rice until I found this video. Thank you!
Exactly what was happening to mine, fixed, cleaned, and hoping this resolves the leakage and freeze up issue of the drain spout. Next to fix the Ice maker. Thank YOU!!!
Just a thought, if the heating tube is aluminum and the metal you used is copper, they will corrode where they make contact.
The duckbill going to the freezer was clogged, I cleaned it out and trimmed from the sides going to the small web in the middle keeping the small web intact. Sort of the best of both worlds keeping whatever the small web does going while allowing more water flow towards the sides. In any event, it works fine. Problem solved. I can always buy new drain tubes if necessary.
Just performed this trick, hopefully it does what it’s supposed to! Your explanation was perfect and makes total sense. Thank you!!
Appliance shark mentioned that little tab too. I cut mine and hopefully will prevent recurrence. Thank you for your video
Thank you sooo much. I replaced sensor, heater, clip… nothing worked. After watching your video I found completely clogged drain.
I was thinking the same thing about cutting that piece so it flows better. Good video
I did mine like that when it filled up with ice, and it's been fine ever since.
Thanks for this video. After several tries the problems were with drain pipe being choked.
How did you clean them. Mine is getting stuck with the tubing i am trying to guide dom=n there.
This is something in my skill level!!
Going to give it shot!
Thanks for this video. My duckbill valve was so brittle and gunked up it cracked when I took it out.
i trimmed about 1/16" off the end of the duck bill after cleaning.
Thank you! Both drains and the coils were a mess. Hopefully this fixes it but needed cleaning regardless.
I went through this repair/replacement of the heating piece a week ago. I cut the 'duckbill' clean off and made it a tube. There may be a reason for the slits, but damned if I know what it could be.
After 10 years our duck bill valve got rock hard essentially blocking the flow, cracking when I pressed to open it. The Samsung replacement part is a different design now and about $15 in the US. However I still need to go from the inside to clear out the ice dam that has formed under the coil.
Mine did the same thing. I've had my refrigerator for 7 yrs.
These duck bills are in all the refrigerators having problems like icing up and leaking. I have a whirlpool and took off the piece altogether and 5 years later the refrigerator is still working fine with no icing up at all anymore. Take the duck bill out and your drains will stay open so you get no ice build up.
Thank you so much for your video once I took off the inside and tried to clean the pipe. I knew exactly where to go next and it not only saved me time but fixed my problem
You're very welcome, glad it fixed the problem.
Take Care,
Cheers.
THANK YOU!!! Just the fix I needed.
Thank you! No need to empty freezer or fridge doors. Use boiling water and a turkey baster instead of hair dryer. Conduction works much faster than convection. Took about ten mins to defrost through once I had it apart. Keep pumping and sucking till water is not hot anymore, you’ll hear it when it finally drains through. Feels better than a good pee. Hahahaha
& a Lot better than trying to pass a kidney stone...
Blow off the dust on those coils with compressed air that is another of the many steps needed to prevent freezing.
This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!
Hope it works for you. Best.
Thanks Joe, works like a charm
Very informative. Thank you for the video.
Hello. Is your fridge still working fina? I'm curious since the reason for those duck bills is to prevent the fridge to suck the humidity from the evaporation cube and generate condensation inside the freezer. It's secondary function is the entrance of insects through it.
What was the long term success of this fix, if I may ask? Thanks!
Will try this tomorrow. Thank you
Thankyou . You done good
Do you know what the purpose is of the duckbill design with the tab in the middle? Why isn’t it just open and free flowing? There’s got to be a functional reason. It’s a confusing design.
I would guess it's purpose is to prevent warm/ambiant air rising up the hose and greating more condensatiion.
good job from leak master plumbing
Can I do this without a Moyle
Audio track not synchronized with lip movement at 5:47. I know Samsing is Korean, but it was like watching a Godzilla movie.
i use those exact same guitar picks !
The REAL PROBLEM is actually NOT all this. REPLACE THE FIN TO THE DRAIN HOLE with a piece of 14 gauge copper wire gently looped around the bottom of the heating element. There are other videos that show exactly how to do this, and is a permanent fix.
The SYMPTOM of this being the REAL PROBLEM is water in and/or under the bottom drawers.
So all the other "fixes" that people try including this or replacing the defrost sensor do not solve the REAL ISSUE.
Make sure the copper wire sticks at least 2 - 3 INCHES INTO THE DRAIN HOLE. It will go down at an angle from the hole into the tube.
This WILL PREVENT the hole from CLOGGING WITH ICE. The excess water WILL DRAIN AS IT SHOULD to the evaporation drip tray under the heat exchanger under the fridge. And the Samsung fridge will then function perfectly, as it should.
Jefferson, I address the whole evaporator assembly and my home-made fin/tab in my longer video here.
th-cam.com/video/BbNVdaxMDBk/w-d-xo.html
This video is intended as a quick and easy, non technical video which may or may not solve a common problem.
The decolorization/dirt in the duck-bills shows that it is not just pure condensed water draining away. Dust, pet dander,
cooking vapors and any air born impurities can enter the fridge when the doors are opened, and will be drawn over the evaporator in time.
Under normal operating conditions, any water reaching the drain is quickly drained away by gravity. The fin/tab in my opinion is to melt any
clumps of ice that fall during the defrost and obstruct the drain hole, not to heat the inside of the drain as the drain exits the cold environment
in short order. Heat is reluctant to travel in a downwards direction.
What works for one fridge may not work for others, hence the 100's of videos' out there on this subject. I honed in on a cheap and easy fix to try before going
elbows deep with tools. If you read the comments section, you will find that it has worked more than one person. Mission accomplished.
Hi John, can you post a link how to do it? Thanks a a lot!
The drain sleeve can still get clogged with garbage
The bottom long scew on the panel just keeps going round and round & not coming out when I try to take off the panel. Any idea's? I don't want to force or break anything.
So the water is suppose to drain out like this? where does this water come from and do i need to refill soemthing?
Kaine, the water comes from from the ice melting during it's defrost cycle. Ice forms on the evaporator when warm air enters (from opening the fridge door).
It condenses on the evaporator and forms ice. This is a normal occurrence in all fridge/freezers. There is a heating element designed to melt the ice and drain the water away.
When taking stuff out, or putting stuff into the fridge, keep the time that the doors stay open, to a minimum. Kids are often the culprits.... ;)
cut duck bill off and you will never have a clog up again - this is the issue - water cant run down drain so it clogs up with duck bill
Get rid of them and just hook back the rubber hose
That would work too, but I think the idea behind the duck bill is to prevent warm air travelling up the tube into the fridge, or leaking cold air out of the fridge.
@@joeshmoe6686 No too much water in the drain pan the fan won't evaporate it properly
Perfect fix if you have no concern about how much that fridge needs to work to keep itself cool. About as smart as leaving the door open. Cleaning them out every 6 months isn't difficult and won't overwork the system like this will
I'm not sure that I understand how this mod makes the fridge work any harder, as you imply?
The duckbill still retains it's original shape. The advantage of this mod is that if the duckbill does become clogged
with lint and debris, the head of water that builds up in the pipe now has the ability to force the duckbill open and
flush the obstruction out. After this, it returns to it's original shape.
No extra Kilowatts were harmed or consumed during this modification..... ;)
@@joeshmoe6686 if you cut that bottom part off, it doesn’t close as well as it should. Warm air will back feed into the fridge. It will change the temp readings on those sensors, it will end up working harder.
samsung makes horrible products. i'll never buy a kitchen appliance or a clothes washer or dryer made by them EVER AGAIN!!!
We too, have not had good luck with Samsung products.... such a shame really.
I have to agree with you for sure. Compared to the N.A. fridges I owned before which were problem free and easy to maintain. Too bad they all went to China to produce their products. Customer service is like pulling teeth.
Great video. An Additional Issue that affects MANY people is Improper Door Sealing
The Mullion Flapper will not seal correctly, if the left door is slightly too low. So a LOT of water accumulates every day! (1-2 cups).
Here is the fix - th-cam.com/video/1j8h9S0QBBY/w-d-xo.html