I just love when people have to the point clear tutorial videos. 6mins and I walk away wiser. Not like the 29min videos of excessive information and you don’t walk away any wiser.
By far the one of the BEST video on the internet in regards to sloping. Strait too the point and seems like some genuine dudes… every larry ive ever known has been funny chill and wise funny how that work 💀 thanks again uncle larry!
Fantastic video. After looking online for articles on this as a new homeowner I come across your video and get more info and real world examples/explanations than all those articles combined. Thank you for this! So great to hear someone who knows what they are talking about explain the topic in a clear, concise and easy to understand format.
I did this for a neighbor's house. After we built up the slope and tamped in in place we covered it in several sheets of black plastic and added a layer of decorative white stone. Looks great and two years later still no leaks into the basement!
His comment about spiders is spot on. I didn’t know this till I purchased a home with water issues that were not completely disclosed to me. However I put a sump pump in basement slab and the hydraulic pressure is relieved so no more water problems. I use a dehumidifier to keep the basement dry and no more spiders, they love moisture.
Thanks, Uncle Larry! I have a terrible water flow/erosion issue in my crawl space ever since a neighbor dumped a foot of hot pack in the alley, and I’ve been scratching my head ever since. I think I’ve got it figured now. 🎉
On each side of the house, you could also cut a swale so that water drains towards the swale and away from the foundation of the house. The swale would then carry water to the back of the property.
I did that but it gradually filled back in. I have been working on fixing my house in sections over years. The slope had softened and changed and had to be fixed.
I was wondering how to deal with sloping the grade when the windows set low, your info on the use of window wells is valuable, also the difference between ground and surface water, good stuff.
Great explanation of negative slope fix, HOWEVER I would run a compactor and get all your soil compacted maintaining proper slope away from the house foundation.
@Max > Yes, that's a good strategy, but I rather build up a sloping away concrete pad of at least 4 to 5 feet in that area, to never have that problem again. Provided is a surface water problem of course, and is an area where it rains often.
@David S > Exactly, no one talks about groundwater ever! Everyone tells you dig around your basement wall and insulate it, cover it ! and put a drain around the house perimeter. But I have never heard of the option of installing a sump pump or doing the French Drain around the basement. Or about the two different issues of Surface water and underground water like you said. I didn't understand before ... now I do. I love his videos.
Buying a house right now, shit a brick when I saw water in the basement until the inspector pointed out the negative slope and pooling on the outside the soil has deteriorated 4” but the wall in the basement hasn’t bowed yet... this video put my mind at ease lol very good video. Reassured myself that I can do the grading myself
I've always understood this procedure as the best first go to."Get the water away!!!" We purchased a new home some years ago. The water was getting through the poured concrete foundation. Under warranty the builder came into to inject some plugs. Still a problem. I observed that the soil on the outside of the foundation had a negative slope. I pushed the issue for them to come in and regrade the area and sod over. Problem SOLVED! Kris' methodology is bang on.
this really helped me and I don't even have a basement. lol - BUT I do have a drainage issue in my new backyard because sections of the ground around my concrete patio just outside my backdoor is around 5 or 6 inches lower than the rest of the yard. They joys of buying a "new" home!
Two points, as someone who's done this work before and even ran underground 160 feet of the white schedule 2 indoor plumbing pipe (thick and which won't collapse like the black coiled flimsy crap meant for above ground use) tied into downspouts, with surface drains around the back and side of my parents house at a 1/4 inch slope as their backyard was a hill, digging down to just over 3 feet before hitting the downhill slope at the front of the yard : 1) You should've used a sod cutter or lacking that a simple flat edged shovel to cut underneath the existing sod under its roots and rolled it up to save it and put back in place after grading and compacting the added soil -it still will settle, and 2) in lieu of using 2 inch thick sod, from your view of the finished soil it will settle and compact at least two inches at the house's edge (personal experience from putting in and grading four complete yards, soil, sod, and seed). You could have rented and used a steel roller (light when empty til you get to work site where you fill it up with water, which works great since water weighs 8 pounds/gallon) to compact the soil but still the soil should have been added up to the tops of the installed cellar wells before compacting and putting back the sod. Soils degree of compacting over time is considerable and not to be underestimated. Leave household electricity issues to a certifed electrician, landscaping issues to a landscaper or a professional groundskeeper with experience. Still, your concept was correct. How they put those cellar windows in at construction without cellar wells at probably $10. cost to the builder and maybe 30 minutes time is criminal. Also, the building code at the time was lousy.
In response to your comments. Not sure what your local building code is, but in Ontario, Canada, the black coiled flimsy crap which is actually called weeping tile is what is run around the perimeter of the footing which is at one point run through the footing into the basement terminating into a sump basin where a sump pump is installed. The weeping tile around the perimeter of the footing must be encapsulated with 6 inches of clear stone on the top and outside of and the weeping tile should be pinned tight to the footing and should be at the same height as the footing. So I'll have to politely disagree with your assertion that it is meant for above ground use, because it is not. As for window well drainage, building codes here require a vertical piece of weeping tile that is tied into the footing weeping tile, strapped to the foundation wall and terminating just below the sill of the window. If your concern is that the weeping tile has the potential to collapse, which should not be a concern under the pressure of settling or compacted soil, then you can fill the weeping tile with clear stone. This is typically done by some not for the concern of it collapsing, but more so to prevent soil from plugging it should the top be left wide open, but it would ease any concerns one might have of it collapsing, but is not required by building code regulations. To collapse a piece of weeping tile it requires a direct blunt force impact. Settling or compacted soil would apply equal pressure around the weeping tile which would make it impossible to collapse. Using solid pipe is a bad idea for 2 reasons. 1) Cost 2) It does not allow for any of the rain water to dissipate through it so you therefore will be pumping 100% of the rain water that uses that path of least resistance and you will be burning sump pumps out more often than you should aside from the added hydro costs for that sump pump to run that frequently. Window wells cost about 100 bucks. Using 2 inch pipe for outdoor drainage is foolish....just my 0.02.
I did this exact thing on the most deeply buried wall of my basement. I installed tall window wells and clear covers. I used Flex Shot to create a seal against the walls, but put it on the outside edge to keep water away from the screws. I then built a grade that drops at least six inches and extends eight feet from the foundation. At the bottom of the slope I dug a 6" x 6" trench the whole length of the grade. I put a plastic landscaping barrier against the side of the trench closest to the foundation and filled the trench with gravel. I then surrounded the grade with 4x4s, put down 6 mil plastic sheeting from the wall to the gravel and covered it 3-4" deep with river rock. Added similar installations around the corners of of the house.
I have this exact problem ! Took me like 3 years of investigation and struggle (water comin in the house) to figure out my slopes and window well were the root cause. I really whish I had seen this video sooner. Perfectly explained ! Thanks a lot !!
I really appreciate the video. Wish you could show how you moved the air conditioner. I have the same problem and need to raise ground under the air conditioner
Thank you. I just learned something that you were just taking care of surface water and if it is ground water then we have to locate our water table which is tough and then you said the perforated and solid pipes would take care of that.
Years ago we had an inground pool installed. When the crew came out to lay out the pool dimensions he asked us how high up do you want the pool. We had no idea what he was talking about (it's an inground pool after all). My wife and I looked at each other not knowing what to say and asked them for their recommendations. Six inches was their recommendation. Well that six inches was enough to create a negative slope towards the house. I had one heck of a time getting water away from the house. I had to cut out sections of the sidewalk to install drains, I had to dig trenches to lay pipe to carry away the water. I actually had to bury a 25 gallon holding tank and install a sump pump to pump out the rainwater (our ground has a lot of clay so it drains slowly). To this very day, if a heavy storm knocks out the power during a heavy rain I'll get flooding.
My negative slope was nowhere near as bad as the one in the video. Nevertheless, heavy spring rains would always flood my basement. In the summer, I collected my bagged lawn clippings and placed them along the foundation, it composts into the soil and builds it up. Haven’t had any water in the basement in over 10 years. The negative slope is completely gone.
If he was going to raise the ground in the back, the AC unit already looked low. It would be a waste of time IMO not to raise it too. If the supply lines to it were not long enough, you'd need an HVAC guy to shut it down properly, move it, raise the ground, reset the the unit, then have it reattached to the system.
@@spconrad9612 Yes. You'd have to look at the supply/return lines and the electric lines to the unit. There might be enough give in the way that they were arranged that a few inches of lift would be possible without disconnecting anything. Then you could lever and lift the unit bit by bit, side by side, stacking pieces of 2 x 4 under it as you go, until proper height reached to put appropriately sized concrete blocks under the 4 corners and pull out the 2x4's.
Very informative video - thank you. I have a fenced yard and the right 1/3 turns to a swamp when it rains. I need to find someone in my area to do this for me. Not sure if I need to search for a "landscaper" or "yard grading".
I'm trying to learn about how to regrade and stumbled upon this video. From all the articles I read, shouldn't the top of the soil be no higher than 6" from the bottom of the siding? To deter pests and to allow the siding to dry faster after a rain storm?
I've negative slope around foundation of the house and don't have enough soil to correct the slope..what type of soil should I use to correct the negative slope? Any suggestions please
Thanks for the video. What if you don't have an ideal yard and don't have that distance. Can you do 2 incher per foot for 3 feet? I am very limited as to what I can do. There is definitely a negative slope. Landlord is too cheap and I have a basement suite. CAn't really raise the ground that much and was thinking digging down a bit to create a V type slope and a dig a channel for the water to try and flow away from the house. The V slope is a positive slope from the and unfortunately a positive slow towards the yard hence the V slope and then guide the water away from the house with a channel.
as a first time home buyer, i've been looking into stuff I was told during my house inspection to work on. Degrading the house was one of the topics. This video is super helpful!! I'll be using this once I get a chance to work on my house!
Hi. I bought my house 3 years ago. After a few months in the new house, my basement got flooded. Then again it got flooded in May 2019, May 2020, July 2020, and today. I don’t know who you are, but please make sure your new house doesn’t look pretty but has hidden issues.
@@ezze-does-it I just had a very expensive dewatering system put in in April. It's been really dry in Illinois this year so I haven't gad a chance to see if the new dewatering system ia good.
I dug up my landscape years ago and am finally trying to put in new items… glad I came across your video on accident bc I would not have sloped!! I am wondering how do I slope when it’s landscape next to my driveway? Do I use my driveway as the “bottom” where water rains drain down and then build up inch by inch from the driveway?? And does water sloping down toward the driveway ruin it from water underneath it? Or do I still do your rule of them for sloping and the driveway might be up higher from the landscape - I worry about this if I drive off of it and land in my landscape aka a ditch lol
I would have done two things different. Instead of calking the wells, which will only last a short time, I would have used a rubber seal for far more durability and better sealing. Also, I would have brought in enough sod to give the area the required amount of grass to protect the soil from being washed away in the next torrential rain. I would also put covers over the wells to keep rainfall from flooding the window wells.
After watching this video, we found a contractor who graded our backyard and extended our gutters. End result, no seepage. Thanks for a great video. Saved us a bunch of money!
great tips... what if you need more slope than is available .. if i fill in what i need for positive slope the soil will be against the house siding?? also, the common area behind my home cause rain water to flow into my lanai. who do i go to the how will not act?
You need a commercial tamping machine guys.That soil will settle just shoveling it in there. You will be back to what you had. I would of put a lot more soil in there. Nice video guys.
Thoughts: the window well is open at the bottom, rain can enter inside the well, rain water on the outside of the well can still penetrate the soil until below the well, wont this be an issue? we don't have such window wells in our country, also we don't have basements.
Great video. I figure they'd still want to do something about that downspout though. But either way, they're probably much better situation than they were before
The part of my basement that have water inside. I went outside and put my finger under the dirt and felt little holes leading into the basement. I mix cement and stop up the holes.
Thanks for sharing your experience. We have to improve the drainage around our house, but it is very hard because we get a lot of rain and a few feet above sea level. We only have to dig 18 inches before we hit ground water. Our house sits on a slab foundation and I cannot find the line where the slab stops and the brick begins.
Slab on grade, except the neighboring property has asphalt that's probably 3 inches higher. Heavy rains and ready to begin reckoning how and who to look to to get this fixed because damp floors are gross (and generally really not good news). So, is it a GC or some other titled professional to look for?
I just love when people have to the point clear tutorial videos. 6mins and I walk away wiser. Not like the 29min videos of excessive information and you don’t walk away any wiser.
Agreed !
Yes!! Dito!
sing it!
Ya people trying to stretch videos to make those ad revenue points.
Amen
This video is very simple, easy to understand, and straight to the point! None of that 5 minute intro/marketing before the video starts. Thank you!
My sentiments exactly! He's a great teacher!
@@spunkyvic77 Yes! he is great!
By far the one of the BEST video on the internet in regards to sloping. Strait too the point and seems like some genuine dudes… every larry ive ever known has been funny chill and wise funny how that work 💀 thanks again uncle larry!
Fantastic video. After looking online for articles on this as a new homeowner I come across your video and get more info and real world examples/explanations than all those articles combined. Thank you for this! So great to hear someone who knows what they are talking about explain the topic in a clear, concise and easy to understand format.
Best explanation, logical and straight to the point. No time wasted and simple explanation of ground water vs surface water.
Thank you.
Thank you for pointing out ground water vs surface as well as the crawl space tid bit. Informative video overall!
I did this for a neighbor's house. After we built up the slope and tamped in in place we covered it in several sheets of black plastic and added a layer of decorative white stone. Looks great and two years later still no leaks into the basement!
Really appreciate the clear and concise tutorial…the comedic value and whimsical production gives it a cherry on top! Bravo folks!!!!
lol not only is this informative, the editing and animation is on point!
This was probably the best tutorial for grading your yard! An invaluable amount of information here
His comment about spiders is spot on. I didn’t know this till I purchased a home with water issues that were not completely disclosed to me. However I put a sump pump in basement slab and the hydraulic pressure is relieved so no more water problems. I use a dehumidifier to keep the basement dry and no more spiders, they love moisture.
Buying a house and had foundation concerns. This was actually super useful.
Awesome information. Surface water = slope repair. Ground water = Sump pump.
How do you tell the difference between?
Amazing how many people and so called experts don't know the difference between ground and surface water.
Good info!
Thanks, Uncle Larry! I have a terrible water flow/erosion issue in my crawl space ever since a neighbor dumped a foot of hot pack in the alley, and I’ve been scratching my head ever since. I think I’ve got it figured now. 🎉
On each side of the house, you could also cut a swale so that water drains towards the swale and away from the foundation of the house. The swale would then carry water to the back of the property.
I did that but it gradually filled back in. I have been working on fixing my house in sections over years. The slope had softened and changed and had to be fixed.
I was wondering how to deal with sloping the grade when the windows set low, your info on the use of window wells is valuable, also the difference between ground and surface water, good stuff.
Great explanation of negative slope fix, HOWEVER I would run a compactor and get all your soil compacted maintaining proper slope away from the house foundation.
I like that idea.
Without compaction that fluffy 1' dirt will shrink down to 3" and recreate the negative slope problem.
@Max > Yes, that's a good strategy, but I rather build up a sloping away concrete pad of at least 4 to 5 feet in that area, to never have that problem again. Provided is a surface water problem of course, and is an area where it rains often.
What a great video. The people in your work area are lucky to have you!
@5:30 gold, the first of many videos I’ve seen that distinguishes between groundwater (high water table) and surface-water issues.
@David S > Exactly, no one talks about groundwater ever! Everyone tells you dig around your basement wall and insulate it, cover it ! and put a drain around the house perimeter. But I have never heard of the option of installing a sump pump or doing the French Drain around the basement. Or about the two different issues of Surface water and underground water like you said. I didn't understand before ... now I do. I love his videos.
great video...its all about directing water folks, positive drainage.
Loved this and I was about to ask about groundwater and you answered that question. Fantastic!
5:14 The most logical statement i hear so far about the water issue around the house ! Thanks
Buying a house right now, shit a brick when I saw water in the basement until the inspector pointed out the negative slope and pooling on the outside the soil has deteriorated 4” but the wall in the basement hasn’t bowed yet... this video put my mind at ease lol very good video. Reassured myself that I can do the grading myself
@Justin Donatos > You shit a brick? lmao ha ha ha...
I've always understood this procedure as the best first go to."Get the water away!!!" We purchased a new home some years ago. The water was getting through the poured concrete foundation. Under warranty the builder came into to inject some plugs. Still a problem. I observed that the soil on the outside of the foundation had a negative slope. I pushed the issue for them to come in and regrade the area and sod over. Problem SOLVED! Kris' methodology is bang on.
So the Issues is solve redirecting the water obviously towards your neighbors?
@@dedoderecho5344 Presumably your neighbors are not 5 feet away....
@@ipitrader well they dont really sell homes with land like they used to so thats a real possibility.
this really helped me and I don't even have a basement. lol - BUT I do have a drainage issue in my new backyard because sections of the ground around my concrete patio just outside my backdoor is around 5 or 6 inches lower than the rest of the yard. They joys of buying a "new" home!
LOL @ "If this is my level, which it is..."
Thank you! This made it very clear what I need to do to fix my water leak problem! Good job and editing on the video.
Two points, as someone who's done this work before and even ran underground 160 feet of the white schedule 2 indoor plumbing pipe (thick and which won't collapse like the black coiled flimsy crap meant for above ground use) tied into downspouts, with surface drains around the back and side of my parents house at a 1/4 inch slope as their backyard was a hill, digging down to just over 3 feet before hitting the downhill slope at the front of the yard :
1) You should've used a sod cutter or lacking that a simple flat edged shovel to cut underneath the existing sod under its roots and rolled it up to save it and put back in place after grading and compacting the added soil -it still will settle, and
2) in lieu of using 2 inch thick sod, from your view of the finished soil it will settle and compact at least two inches at the house's edge (personal experience from putting in and grading four complete yards, soil, sod, and seed). You could have rented and used a steel roller (light when empty til you get to work site where you fill it up with water, which works great since water weighs 8 pounds/gallon) to compact the soil but still the soil should have been added up to the tops of the installed cellar wells before compacting and putting back the sod. Soils degree of compacting over time is considerable and not to be underestimated. Leave household electricity issues to a certifed electrician, landscaping issues to a landscaper or a professional groundskeeper with experience.
Still, your concept was correct. How they put those cellar windows in at construction without cellar wells at probably $10. cost to the builder and maybe 30 minutes time is criminal. Also, the building code at the time was lousy.
In response to your comments. Not sure what your local building code is, but in Ontario, Canada, the black coiled flimsy crap which is actually called weeping tile is what is run around the perimeter of the footing which is at one point run through the footing into the basement terminating into a sump basin where a sump pump is installed. The weeping tile around the perimeter of the footing must be encapsulated with 6 inches of clear stone on the top and outside of and the weeping tile should be pinned tight to the footing and should be at the same height as the footing. So I'll have to politely disagree with your assertion that it is meant for above ground use, because it is not. As for window well drainage, building codes here require a vertical piece of weeping tile that is tied into the footing weeping tile, strapped to the foundation wall and terminating just below the sill of the window. If your concern is that the weeping tile has the potential to collapse, which should not be a concern under the pressure of settling or compacted soil, then you can fill the weeping tile with clear stone. This is typically done by some not for the concern of it collapsing, but more so to prevent soil from plugging it should the top be left wide open, but it would ease any concerns one might have of it collapsing, but is not required by building code regulations. To collapse a piece of weeping tile it requires a direct blunt force impact. Settling or compacted soil would apply equal pressure around the weeping tile which would make it impossible to collapse. Using solid pipe is a bad idea for 2 reasons. 1) Cost 2) It does not allow for any of the rain water to dissipate through it so you therefore will be pumping 100% of the rain water that uses that path of least resistance and you will be burning sump pumps out more often than you should aside from the added hydro costs for that sump pump to run that frequently. Window wells cost about 100 bucks. Using 2 inch pipe for outdoor drainage is foolish....just my 0.02.
Short, informative, correct! Good video.
Do you recommend putting outdoor tiles on the positively graded soil to create extra waterproofing?
4:56 good to know that’s your level! Haha that was my favorite part. Thank you for a nice clear informative video.
I did this exact thing on the most deeply buried wall of my basement. I installed tall window wells and clear covers. I used Flex Shot to create a seal against the walls, but put it on the outside edge to keep water away from the screws. I then built a grade that drops at least six inches and extends eight feet from the foundation. At the bottom of the slope I dug a 6" x 6" trench the whole length of the grade. I put a plastic landscaping barrier against the side of the trench closest to the foundation and filled the trench with gravel. I then surrounded the grade with 4x4s, put down 6 mil plastic sheeting from the wall to the gravel and covered it 3-4" deep with river rock. Added similar installations around the corners of of the house.
I have this exact problem ! Took me like 3 years of investigation and struggle (water comin in the house) to figure out my slopes and window well were the root cause. I really whish I had seen this video sooner. Perfectly explained ! Thanks a lot !!
Thank you. As others have said: great information and straight to the point. I’m going to get some window wells right now!
Hey good video don't forget the vapor barrier talking about putting that in your crawl space.
Underground flashing is getting my interest love to hear your take
Very simple yet extremely important information. Thanks for sharing this!!
I really appreciate the video. Wish you could show how you moved the air conditioner. I have the same problem and need to raise ground under the air conditioner
Simply just lift it up and place blocks under it. You will most likely have to disconnect the copper line and re weld it.
Thank you. I just learned something that you were just taking care of surface water and if it is ground water then we have to locate our water table which is tough and then you said the perforated and solid pipes would take care of that.
What kind of dirt do you use around the foundation of the house? Does it matter?
PHENOMENAL! This is a huge problem here in Nashville. Love seeing this and this market is wide open!!!!
By Code, you must add a drainage line down to the foundation drain in each window well that is added.
Exactly what i was going to say. Without a drainage well to the foundation weeping tile this is all a WASTED EFFORT
Love the clear language in the video thanks for sharing
Years ago we had an inground pool installed. When the crew came out to lay out the pool dimensions he asked us how high up do you want the pool. We had no idea what he was talking about (it's an inground pool after all). My wife and I looked at each other not knowing what to say and asked them for their recommendations. Six inches was their recommendation. Well that six inches was enough to create a negative slope towards the house. I had one heck of a time getting water away from the house. I had to cut out sections of the sidewalk to install drains, I had to dig trenches to lay pipe to carry away the water. I actually had to bury a 25 gallon holding tank and install a sump pump to pump out the rainwater (our ground has a lot of clay so it drains slowly). To this very day, if a heavy storm knocks out the power during a heavy rain I'll get flooding.
Wow!
Get a generator to operate that sump pump. Just in case.
My negative slope was nowhere near as bad as the one in the video. Nevertheless, heavy spring rains would always flood my basement. In the summer, I collected my bagged lawn clippings and placed them along the foundation, it composts into the soil and builds it up. Haven’t had any water in the basement in over 10 years. The negative slope is completely gone.
I was interested to see how you worked around the AC unit. Is that in another video?
If he was going to raise the ground in the back, the AC unit already looked low. It would be a waste of time IMO not to raise it too. If the supply lines to it were not long enough, you'd need an HVAC guy to shut it down properly, move it, raise the ground, reset the the unit, then have it reattached to the system.
@@spconrad9612 Yes. You'd have to look at the supply/return lines and the electric lines to the unit. There might be enough give in the way that they were arranged that a few inches of lift would be possible without disconnecting anything. Then you could lever and lift the unit bit by bit, side by side, stacking pieces of 2 x 4 under it as you go, until proper height reached to put appropriately sized concrete blocks under the 4 corners and pull out the 2x4's.
The soil looks beautiful!
We have gravel and dense red clay.
It's punishing to dig even a little bit
Very informative video - thank you.
I have a fenced yard and the right 1/3 turns to a swamp when it rains.
I need to find someone in my area to do this for me.
Not sure if I need to search for a "landscaper" or "yard grading".
what do you with water build up inside the water well ?
I'm trying to learn about how to regrade and stumbled upon this video. From all the articles I read, shouldn't the top of the soil be no higher than 6" from the bottom of the siding? To deter pests and to allow the siding to dry faster after a rain storm?
I've negative slope around foundation of the house and don't have enough soil to correct the slope..what type of soil should I use to correct the negative slope? Any suggestions please
Thanks for the video. What if you don't have an ideal yard and don't have that distance. Can you do 2 incher per foot for 3 feet? I am very limited as to what I can do. There is definitely a negative slope. Landlord is too cheap and I have a basement suite. CAn't really raise the ground that much and was thinking digging down a bit to create a V type slope and a dig a channel for the water to try and flow away from the house. The V slope is a positive slope from the and unfortunately a positive slow towards the yard hence the V slope and then guide the water away from the house with a channel.
as a first time home buyer, i've been looking into stuff I was told during my house inspection to work on. Degrading the house was one of the topics. This video is super helpful!! I'll be using this once I get a chance to work on my house!
Hi. I bought my house 3 years ago. After a few months in the new house, my basement got flooded. Then again it got flooded in May 2019, May 2020, July 2020, and today. I don’t know who you are, but please make sure your new house doesn’t look pretty but has hidden issues.
@@a.h.6404 Did you do something to address it the first year? It will flood every year if you don't
@@ezze-does-it I just had a very expensive dewatering system put in in April. It's been really dry in Illinois this year so I haven't gad a chance to see if the new dewatering system ia good.
How much do you think this cost? I need this done at my house.
time = 4:44 = hilarious graphics...great video, thanks!
I dug up my landscape years ago and am finally trying to put in new items… glad I came across your video on accident bc I would not have sloped!!
I am wondering how do I slope when it’s landscape next to my driveway? Do I use my driveway as the “bottom” where water rains drain down and then build up inch by inch from the driveway?? And does water sloping down toward the driveway ruin it from water underneath it?
Or do I still do your rule of them for sloping and the driveway might be up higher from the landscape - I worry about this if I drive off of it and land in my landscape aka a ditch lol
Amazing video, very informative funny and straight to the point, thank you for sharing your expertise!
"So if this is my level, which it is...." HA! Good video!
Window well has bad egress. Rest, a great video on positive grading in few minutes.
Correct. This basement was storage only. No bedrooms. Or we would have suggested egress windows.
I would have done two things different.
Instead of calking the wells, which will only last a short time, I would have used a rubber seal for far more durability and better sealing. Also, I would have brought in enough sod to give the area the required amount of grass to protect the soil from being washed away in the next torrential rain. I would also put covers over the wells to keep rainfall from flooding the window wells.
Great video. Will be taking on this project this Fall.
Good video. I like the 1inch per foot of basement wall. Thank you
After watching this video, we found a contractor who graded our backyard and extended our gutters. End result, no seepage. Thanks for a great video. Saved us a bunch of money!
great tips... what if you need more slope than is available .. if i fill in what i need for positive slope the soil will be against the house siding?? also, the common area behind my home cause rain water to flow into my lanai. who do i go to the how will not act?
Good info. I understand that it varies throughout the country, but what would be a fair price to have soil delivered? And what kind should I look for?
Very good explanations. Thank you very much Uncle Larry
Great video. We were having the same problem. Very clearly put. 😊
You need a commercial tamping machine guys.That soil will settle just shoveling it in there. You will be back to what you had. I would of put a lot more soil in there. Nice video guys.
Yup, absolutely should have compacted it.
Thoughts: the window well is open at the bottom, rain can enter inside the well, rain water on the outside of the well can still penetrate the soil until below the well, wont this be an issue? we don't have such window wells in our country, also we don't have basements.
The thing with the windows... amazing
Thank you so much for the idea. I have the same problem
Great video. I figure they'd still want to do something about that downspout though. But either way, they're probably much better situation than they were before
thanks! just what I was looking for for slope calculation!
Won't the top soil wash away over time?
Extremely informative video. Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge 🙌.
This was really informative!! I have water issues in my basement but I think it’s a combo of the slope and water seeping up through the floor 😭
Question, should you put rocks down before you backfill to channel the water away from the house?
love this...but quickly what kind of gravel to put in the well?
We use a 1/2” gravel.
I was just looking for a how-to and ended up finding this video, I’m pretty sure lived across the street back in college.
Learned a lot in this. Thank you!!
Great easy explanation and fun interaction. Thanks for the quick and easiest explanation.
Great video! Someone told me I should put drains in the window wells that drain to my basement sump? Thoughts?
I don’t think it’s necessary. If you drained them to a French drain I’d agree
Good information. We are currently dealing with this problem. Thank you.
I have this same issue in Hungary. Garden slops towards the house, so walls are taking water in. Thanks for the video
Thank you! I do hope there are French drains at your footers but maybe not needed?
The part of my basement that have water inside. I went outside and put my finger under the dirt and felt little holes leading into the basement. I mix cement and stop up the holes.
Thank you! I’m in Great Bend trying to do something similar
Is it still possible to have the windows replaced without digging an access hole and remove those wells?
Thanks for the video. This information was very helpful!
Thanks Uncle Larry...very informative video.
Thanks for sharing your experience. We have to improve the drainage around our house, but it is very hard because we get a lot of rain and a few feet above sea level. We only have to dig 18 inches before we hit ground water. Our house sits on a slab foundation and I cannot find the line where the slab stops and the brick begins.
How do you create that on a pier and piem foundation. Don't want any dirt up against the structure
Nice looking out Larry
Did you have to coat the exterior wall with something where the new dirt comes in contact?
Great video! But what would you do if you only had 3” from the ground to the siding? Still add dirt around it or French drains?
so what did you do with the space after? did you fill it with rocks or grass?
This is exactly my situation. But its the whole house.. Great video. New sub. Great content.
So what about ground water and top water from taper? Have sump pump/ French drainage,
Slab on grade, except the neighboring property has asphalt that's probably 3 inches higher. Heavy rains and ready to begin reckoning how and who to look to to get this fixed because damp floors are gross (and generally really not good news).
So, is it a GC or some other titled professional to look for?