Great vid. I've been into hugelkultur for many years now -- here's what experience tells me (Zone 5b - in southern Maine): Pine isn't the best for hugelkultur, due to the resins in it -- less beneficial decompositional transfer to the soil and plants. That said, a certain amount of pine is okay, particularly if smaller pieces, mixed in with hardwoods and somewhat pre-rotted. Very resinous softwoods like cedar and pitch pines should be avoided. "Soft hardwoods" like birches, poplar, etc., are the best -- and more-so, if somewhat pre-rotted. Whenever you cut down trees or get free hardwood, cut it up and pile it for a couple of years, out of the way, where it will weather. When it starts rotting, build hugel beds with those piles. The ideal hugel mound is a mix of large hardwood and 'soft hardwood' logs/chunks at the bottom -- preferably cut up (not long logs) and tossed in all jumbled and chaotic. You'll see a lot of very tight and orderly-looking hugel mounds constructed by people online... not really ideal. If you fit them all tightly together, you leave too little space between for the roots and soils to penetrate down through the wood to help break it down and extract its goodness. better to jumble it all up randomly so there are lots of narrow gaps throughout the mound. Your biggest/hardest/freshest stuff goes on the bottom -- softer, smaller logs and chunks (think whole to split firewood size pieces) on top of that, adding soil and grasses/leaves in the gaps, then more pre-rotted hardwoods and soft hardwoods on that (more soil filling in - and wet it throughout construction; followed by heavy brush all busted up (soil), light brush and twigs (soil and water), leaves and dry grasses (chopped up), then finally 10-14" of soil on top -- the deeper, the better -- and mulch the whole thing with unfinished organic compost -- or pre-composted wood chips to avoid the nitrogen lock. The bigger and higher the hugel mound, the longer it lasts. A 6-8 foot hugel bed will last ~60-80 years and hardly ever need watering, as long as you keep a good deep mulch cover on top. Keep all your fall leaves and grass clippings each year and compost them together -- brown/green/brown/green -- mix and pile 3'x3', minimum to get the heat and microbes going -- toss the pile twice a year -- rake last year's mulch off the mound in the sprint and throw that finished compost on as you re-plant, mixing in a little slow-release fertilizer and some high-quality compost, diluted with some more native soil or sand so it's not too organic-heavy -- you're in business. That keeps adding soil and nutrients to it every year. It's good for the mound to give it a year off, every so many... just grow nitrogen-fixing cover crops that year and let it rejuvenate. As the mound rots underneath, everything gets better. Water retention improves as it gets increasingly spongy and the microbiology establishes. Plant a fruit tree on the back, some berry bushes in front of that, your annual / lower stuff in front of that (toward the sun) -- everything will do nicely. Keep deep mulch on it and add some at the end of the year to put it to bed for winter. I have grown apples, blueberries, huge pumpkins, every imaginable vegetable, potatoes the size of footballs and zillions of weeds (lol) in hugel mounds. The better you do at weeding and maintaining a good mulch layer, the fewer weeds you deal with, but there's the school of thought that doesn't mind weeds so much, as "Anything that photosynthesizes, promotes beneficial microbes and funguses in the soil" -- so there is that. (I find that to be a handy mantra whenever I don't feel like weeding.) Keep your mound or bed somewhat narrow -- my first one was ~10' wide and hard to reach the top/middle. You don't want to be climbing all over it, as you'll compact it too much, so ~6' wide is a suggested maximum width. Huge stones around the perimeter looks cool and helps support the mound. Cement block beds, 2-3 blocks high, raised beds and container hugel are all great for containment and support. Whenever you find a wormie, toss it on the hugel mound. 🙂
You can use cardboard for Hügelkultur (make a mountain, the base is cardboard -without plastic or paint-, it stays longer wet and the worms love it, add wood chips, fresh greens will become compost and on top soil). Also google permaculture (leave the vegetables grow on their own, do less too nothing and you will have a bigger harvest) is a good concept; credit goes to Sepp Holzer farmer from Austria. Best wishes from good old Germany;)
This is very interesting! thank you very much! I'm curious to see how is this going to work in my terrain. I live in the tropics, at the Colombian Pacific coast. There, we get about 6700mm3 a year, so we hardly have problems with lack of water, but I worry that it will rise the temperature of the earth due to the decomposition process. I know that's not an issue for people on subtropical or temperate areas (even desired!), but I'll try in my garden and see how it works. Tkx again!
It’s best to stay away from wood that contains growth inhibitor compounds like juglone. Pine doesn’t have that, so it should work well if it’s already rotting.
Thank you! I just meant that, if you got soil from a neighbor who had to dig up part of their yard, it would be good to make sure that the soil didn’t have toxic chemicals or heavy metals in it. It’s very rare that would happen, but it’s good to check!
Good question! I guess it depends on what you’re growing. Most crops will be fine with about 6 inches and a bit more for root crops. The roots will even attach themselves to the wood and get nutrients as the wood decomposes. Hope that helps and good luck with your hügel beds!
2 years ago I set mine up. I dug in about 18 to 24 inch, filled to just above ground level with wood, Wasn't sure on soil level needed on wood so place about 12 to 16 inches of soil on top and watered in well as i went. After that I placed about 6 inched of wood mulch over all of the gardening area and planted. And....for a jump start, I spread some 13-12-12 granules and only water the areas long enough to get the seeds to sprout. After that nothing recieved and extra water from me, only nature. The soil really settled in an in many places it had very little soil left on the wood. Even with all of that when everything was drying up and feilds were struggling from lack of water... The garden plants did very well and below the mulch level the soil was still moist. This year, it looks to need more soil in a lot of places. Personal suggestion.... I would got with at least 12 - 16 inches of soil to cover it and heavy mulch. In the fall plan on adding more soil, mulch and organic matter. You may also want to think about some good ol compost tea a couple times you first year. After that, mulch and some organic matter each fall when everything is going to seed will give the seeds a very nice jumpstart come next growing season. If you plan on allowing the garden to reseed itself, plan on having an abundance of plants to thin out. Hope this helps
I'm begging to build one several hundred square feet and build an mountain of limbs chicken poo horse poo natural hardwood mulch mushroom mulch and grass clippings and lots of cardboard I've been saving for months
![[안방1열 풀캠4K] 베이비몬스터 'DRIP' (BABYMONSTER FullCam)│@SBS Inkigayo 241110](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/AQ4RIghEvUs/mqdefault.jpg)
Great vid. I've been into hugelkultur for many years now -- here's what experience tells me (Zone 5b - in southern Maine): Pine isn't the best for hugelkultur, due to the resins in it -- less beneficial decompositional transfer to the soil and plants. That said, a certain amount of pine is okay, particularly if smaller pieces, mixed in with hardwoods and somewhat pre-rotted. Very resinous softwoods like cedar and pitch pines should be avoided. "Soft hardwoods" like birches, poplar, etc., are the best -- and more-so, if somewhat pre-rotted. Whenever you cut down trees or get free hardwood, cut it up and pile it for a couple of years, out of the way, where it will weather. When it starts rotting, build hugel beds with those piles.
The ideal hugel mound is a mix of large hardwood and 'soft hardwood' logs/chunks at the bottom -- preferably cut up (not long logs) and tossed in all jumbled and chaotic. You'll see a lot of very tight and orderly-looking hugel mounds constructed by people online... not really ideal. If you fit them all tightly together, you leave too little space between for the roots and soils to penetrate down through the wood to help break it down and extract its goodness. better to jumble it all up randomly so there are lots of narrow gaps throughout the mound. Your biggest/hardest/freshest stuff goes on the bottom -- softer, smaller logs and chunks (think whole to split firewood size pieces) on top of that, adding soil and grasses/leaves in the gaps, then more pre-rotted hardwoods and soft hardwoods on that (more soil filling in - and wet it throughout construction; followed by heavy brush all busted up (soil), light brush and twigs (soil and water), leaves and dry grasses (chopped up), then finally 10-14" of soil on top -- the deeper, the better -- and mulch the whole thing with unfinished organic compost -- or pre-composted wood chips to avoid the nitrogen lock.
The bigger and higher the hugel mound, the longer it lasts. A 6-8 foot hugel bed will last ~60-80 years and hardly ever need watering, as long as you keep a good deep mulch cover on top. Keep all your fall leaves and grass clippings each year and compost them together -- brown/green/brown/green -- mix and pile 3'x3', minimum to get the heat and microbes going -- toss the pile twice a year -- rake last year's mulch off the mound in the sprint and throw that finished compost on as you re-plant, mixing in a little slow-release fertilizer and some high-quality compost, diluted with some more native soil or sand so it's not too organic-heavy -- you're in business. That keeps adding soil and nutrients to it every year.
It's good for the mound to give it a year off, every so many... just grow nitrogen-fixing cover crops that year and let it rejuvenate.
As the mound rots underneath, everything gets better. Water retention improves as it gets increasingly spongy and the microbiology establishes. Plant a fruit tree on the back, some berry bushes in front of that, your annual / lower stuff in front of that (toward the sun) -- everything will do nicely. Keep deep mulch on it and add some at the end of the year to put it to bed for winter.
I have grown apples, blueberries, huge pumpkins, every imaginable vegetable, potatoes the size of footballs and zillions of weeds (lol) in hugel mounds. The better you do at weeding and maintaining a good mulch layer, the fewer weeds you deal with, but there's the school of thought that doesn't mind weeds so much, as "Anything that photosynthesizes, promotes beneficial microbes and funguses in the soil" -- so there is that. (I find that to be a handy mantra whenever I don't feel like weeding.)
Keep your mound or bed somewhat narrow -- my first one was ~10' wide and hard to reach the top/middle. You don't want to be climbing all over it, as you'll compact it too much, so ~6' wide is a suggested maximum width. Huge stones around the perimeter looks cool and helps support the mound. Cement block beds, 2-3 blocks high, raised beds and container hugel are all great for containment and support. Whenever you find a wormie, toss it on the hugel mound. 🙂
Thank you for the great tips from a fellow Mainer!
You can use cardboard for Hügelkultur (make a mountain, the base is cardboard -without plastic or paint-, it stays longer wet and the worms love it, add wood chips, fresh greens will become compost and on top soil).
Also google permaculture (leave the vegetables grow on their own, do less too nothing and you will have a bigger harvest) is a good concept; credit goes to Sepp Holzer farmer from Austria.
Best wishes from good old Germany;)
Great! I was planning on the lazy method lol so glad it's a "real" method!
Some might say it’s not real hügelkultur, but I say it is!
Love all the hugeling! Well done!
Thanks Jenna! I like making up words.
I’m looking forward to seeing how they perform this year.
I may have to dig into them in the Fall to see how the wood 🪵 is breaking down.
Thank you - option 2 sounds like a winner for me. Great inspiration and you are a very neat and tidy hole digger.
Awesome! And thank you, I can’t help keeping things orderly. Not to be macabre, but maybe I missed my calling to work in a cemetery.
Love your videos so much. I have a lot of bamboo. I will try and see how it comes out. Thank you so much for sharing.
Thank you! I’ve never heard of anyone using bamboo for hügelkultur so I’m curious to see how it will work. Best of luck!
This is very interesting! thank you very much!
I'm curious to see how is this going to work in my terrain. I live in the tropics, at the Colombian Pacific coast. There, we get about 6700mm3 a year, so we hardly have problems with lack of water, but I worry that it will rise the temperature of the earth due to the decomposition process. I know that's not an issue for people on subtropical or temperate areas (even desired!), but I'll try in my garden and see how it works. Tkx again!
wow great info. TY
You're welcome!
I'm from Iowa as well. It's cool to see a local youtuber. :)
Awesome, thanks for watching!
Very cool
Can any tree wood be used? I have lots of pine around me.
It’s best to stay away from wood that contains growth inhibitor compounds like juglone. Pine doesn’t have that, so it should work well if it’s already rotting.
Very good episode! Could elaborate on the comment about making sure the topsoil is “safe for gardening”. What might make the topsoil unsafe?
Thank you! I just meant that, if you got soil from a neighbor who had to dig up part of their yard, it would be good to make sure that the soil didn’t have toxic chemicals or heavy metals in it. It’s very rare that would happen, but it’s good to check!
good question. I was wondering the same.
I would like to know what part of the country your growing your garden?
We're in Iowa, zone 5b.
I want to try something likecthis just so i can get rid of all the sticks, twigs, pine cones ive got all the time.
Can you use ordinary wooden boards instead of logs? Thanks for all the info you provide
Yes, you can! As long as you know the boards haven’t been treated, painted or stained, they should be safe to use.
@@SomeRoomtoGrow thanks, wish you a good growing season ahead 👍🍀🌞
Thanks, you too!
So im currently beginning my hugelkulter and I was wondering if anybody had any advice for how deep the soil should be before hitting wood?
Good question! I guess it depends on what you’re growing. Most crops will be fine with about 6 inches and a bit more for root crops. The roots will even attach themselves to the wood and get nutrients as the wood decomposes. Hope that helps and good luck with your hügel beds!
2 years ago I set mine up.
I dug in about 18 to 24 inch,
filled to just above ground level with wood,
Wasn't sure on soil level needed on wood so place about 12 to 16 inches of soil on top and watered in well as i went.
After that I placed about 6 inched of wood mulch over all of the gardening area and planted.
And....for a jump start, I spread some 13-12-12 granules and only water the areas long enough to get the seeds to sprout. After that nothing recieved and extra water from me, only nature.
The soil really settled in an in many places it had very little soil left on the wood. Even with all of that when everything was drying up and feilds were struggling from lack of water...
The garden plants did very well and below the mulch level the soil was still moist.
This year, it looks to need more soil in a lot of places.
Personal suggestion....
I would got with at least 12 - 16 inches of soil to cover it and heavy mulch. In the fall plan on adding more soil, mulch and organic matter.
You may also want to think about some good ol compost tea a couple times you first year. After that, mulch and some organic matter each fall when everything is going to seed will give the seeds a very nice jumpstart come next growing season.
If you plan on allowing the garden to reseed itself, plan on having an abundance of plants to thin out.
Hope this helps
@@Sport--willow thanks
I'm begging to build one several hundred square feet and build an mountain of limbs chicken poo horse poo natural hardwood mulch mushroom mulch and grass clippings and lots of cardboard I've been saving for months
pssssst. Sepp Holzer is Austrian... But I try not to hold that against him 😂
That’s right, whoops! Thanks for the correction.
That’s right, whoops! Thanks for the correction.