Hi Simon. From what I can see from your video this house has a dpc and is of cavity wall construction. Therefore, if allowing for drips splashing back up from the first floor pebble dash render it still shouldn't be able to affect the inside. Yet you have taken the plaster off the internal walls. And surely the chimney breast is affected by hygroscopic salts, not rising or penetrating damp
Stephen Gunner hi your part right with the chimney breast, I said there was no damp proof membrane inside the chimney when it had been infilled and this is a common problem, when the sulphate salts inside the chimney gets wet they migrate to the surface latterly and that is why these chimneys need a waterproof system installing. The other walls have a bridged dpc and it’s causing low level damp as I say in the vid. There are a number of systems that could suit and work we chose the one we used because it was the quickest, cleanest and most time efficient for our customer and us. Hope this helps
I suppose that the best way to ascertain if, or not, the bay window wall is made from headers, as you suggest, or it was constructed from half bricks with a cavity to aid forming the arc of the bay during construction, is to drill a hole..then all will be revealed. It would be easier to build with half bricks and a cavity, instead of cutting every brick at an angle on each long side to form an arch....as in the case of header built.
Hi Robert , yes totally understand, this was when I first started and was using my phone all clogged up with plaster dust. The newer vids should be better quality as I realised the issues.
This is absolutely crazy. How can you not have noticed the ground level and the air brick where water will be flowing in?! This is how people get ripped off.
Hi Alex, Thanks for watching, there is a fall away from the house which is hard to see but if you freeze the clip that shows the air brick at the rear doors and look at the level of the far brick work you will see its a half brick close to the house and a brick and half further to the left. Its such a shame you have a made up profile as i could have contacted you and given you more value for free. have a great day and watch some more of our videos please where we are helping people understand damp.
You have no value to offer; only painting or injecting walls and ignoring the route causes of the damp problems which take more work to fix but will provide the "value" to the customer of a job well done.
Alex Rae I do empathise with you and respect your opinion- you have my email address feel free to let me know what you would have done, you speak as if your in this business though I may be wrong. Thanks for being a fan, and if the videos bother you so much try watching love island although them blokes are not as good looking as me 😉
Should there not be a gap anyway between the floorboards and the wall? as you have to factor in the thermal expansion of the floorboards? the when the skirting goes on you just seal that gap with a timber molding and fix to the skirting board? that would allow the expansion of the floorboards to occur freely and also seal the gaps and prevent any cold-spots? would like to be informed if I am wrong. Cheers
Stephen Mitchell the foam glue will allow any expansion once put in place and you don’t really want any timber touching the wall if it’s wet as timber is hygroscopic and will absorb moisture. It’s part of the isolation of the timbers.
Hi Sam, I’ve recently brought a house and had some damp proofing done - when taking off the skirting I’ve noticed the gap where the air brick is but they didn’t mention anything about it - should I do something to make sure it doesn’t effect the new damp course or will putting a cowl on it be enough? Thanks!
Hi thanks for watching. They all come up to BBA standard but safeguard do go above and beyond. Safeguard invented and were the first to bring out the injection creams plus loads of other products but Soveriegn can be cheaper and renderguard is great to use but can be a bit limiting. I could go on all day, you really need to try them yourself to see what you think as one mans meat is another mans murder if you know what I mean.
Mark O'Leary hmmm 🤔, I’m puzzled by this statement, I would need to know more about the issue, if it has a physical dpc in place you would be talking about a bridging issue but as I don’t know the job I’m reluctant to comment.
Simon. You say the cold damp air is coming in from the air brick. Is the ground level too high. Surely if you lower the ground level to below 125 mm the problem will solved at a cost of a few hundred pounds. Labour , removal of rubbish and pea gravel. Also if the building is of the age you say it it would be of a sand lime construction. Bed joints and perps. If you put on your storm dry paint your sealing in any moisture which has got in from the loose cement over pointing. The brickwork will have to loose moisture some how. Surely it will force itself out of the face of the brick or possibly through the mortar joint. Won't your your paint end up on the floor with the loose brick or mortar joint. I think rather than foaming and removing the plaster internally the best option would be to lower the external ground level and stop cold wet air raising the dew point and creating condensation internally.
Steve Murray thanks for your comments, lowering the ground level would cost more and look worse plus the salts contaminating the existing plaster will still spoil decoration as the wall dries out.
Exactly right. All that needs to be done is lower ground level. Every time it rains the water is pouring in the air brick making the sub floor damp. Not rocket science.
jacksticksmitch thanks for taking the time to watch the video, the customer does have a say on who carry’s out the work and there are different ways to do this work but have you considered that the home owner may not want a moat digging around the outside, it may sound a simple solution to you but other methods may suit. Your more than welcome to come on a site visit with me and tell me an alternative method at the time and we can discuss the pros & cons of each.
Matt Walker thanks for watching, the product applied to the masonry is StormDry Masonry Ptotection Cream Ana it’s not a sealant or what we call pore blocker like silicone based products, StormDry allows moisture as a gas (water vapour) to pass through the fabric .
Hi Sam. I have an single storey external solid wall which was rendered years ago. The render is blown and cracked and seems to be letting penetrating damp through to the interior. I'm not too keen to re-render in case the same things happens. Would it work if the old render was knocked off and the wall was painted with Stormdry masonry cream?
Hi James, It sounds like moisture may be getting trapped between the render and the masonry then penetrating inside. If you knock off the render you may need to re-point the wall, then you can apply the storm dry.
Just been drilling and rodding on outside, i've got two drain pipes in way (not movable) is there anything i can do ? Also i've got an understair electric box with damp behind whats the correct process, box is going to be swopped but not for 3 weeks would like to get the house dry
smeggedup hi, you probably need a longer drill bit and go in at an angle where the pipes are. We hack off the plaster up to the meter then isolate around it, so drill and inject and foam any plaster showing so it doesn’t bridge with the new system being installed.
@@dampsam thanks i've already hacked 1m of most of downstairs walls wifes gone mad we only got the keys on monday. just need to tackle electrics area. Then paint and board out.
I have a issue as there's a smell that's horrible but I can see any damp. I have dug up around the front of the house to see if there's moss ect. But nothink it's geting me down tbh I have called a few places and thay just say if there's nothink viable then thay can't help 🤔😔
time with evie I would try and lift the floor boards in places as it could be a wet rot issue affecting some timbers. If it was a strong mushroom smell that could be dry rot. Stand on different areas and bounce up and down slightly to see if the floor has any give. That could be a sign the joist is decayed.
Does make me laugh you refer to a British standard BS6576.......what about .....British Standard - BS 5250: Code of practice for controlling condensation in buildings, says; 'Accurate measurements of the moisture content of brick or mortar cannot be obtained by the use of electrical moisture meters because the presence of salts increases the electrical conductance of the water, giving falsely high .readings
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW why are the damp industry continuing to use these tools to diagnose damp problems as this is incorrect and gives false readings every time
@@daleburns7110 the methods are tried and tested and good practice, I’m more than willing to take you to any of our previous customer so you can ask if the systems and diagnosis worked.
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Sam this is the video iv been looking for that's the problem iv got with the gap between the floor boards cheers
The gap needs filling to stop the cold air
Hi Simon. From what I can see from your video this house has a dpc and is of cavity wall construction. Therefore, if allowing for drips splashing back up from the first floor pebble dash render it still shouldn't be able to affect the inside. Yet you have taken the plaster off the internal walls. And surely the chimney breast is affected by hygroscopic salts, not rising or penetrating damp
Stephen Gunner hi your part right with the chimney breast, I said there was no damp proof membrane inside the chimney when it had been infilled and this is a common problem, when the sulphate salts inside the chimney gets wet they migrate to the surface latterly and that is why these chimneys need a waterproof system installing. The other walls have a bridged dpc and it’s causing low level damp as I say in the vid.
There are a number of systems that could suit and work we chose the one we used because it was the quickest, cleanest and most time efficient for our customer and us. Hope this helps
You have an INCREDIBLY kind, friendly face. There's something about you I just instinctively trust. God bless you Sir ⭐❤️😀
Thankyou for the kind comments and thanks for watching, i hope you get some value from the videos. have a great day
I suppose that the best way to ascertain if, or not, the bay window wall is made from headers, as you suggest, or it was constructed from half bricks with a cavity to aid forming the arc of the bay during construction, is to drill a hole..then all will be revealed.
It would be easier to build with half bricks and a cavity, instead of cutting every brick at an angle on each long side to form an arch....as in the case of header built.
ningis21 great point and thanks for pointing it out. I’m always learning even at 52 so any constructive comments are welcome. 👍
Your videos are too quiet is there a way of making them louder? I have my tablet volume turned up full.
Hi Robert , yes totally understand, this was when I first started and was using my phone all clogged up with plaster dust. The newer vids should be better quality as I realised the issues.
looks like air brick is below ground level on the outside (6:12) which means rain water will run straight through it into the subfloor
That’s well observed, from what I remember we put an air brick housing on any vulnerable vents.
Nice one. Would be interested in seeing a video to show how you safely cut around electrical sockets to fit plaster boards. Cheers.
ijl66 will do it next time we fit the dry wall system, it’s not hard just can be fiddly , thanks for your input.
This is absolutely crazy. How can you not have noticed the ground level and the air brick where water will be flowing in?! This is how people get ripped off.
Hi Alex, Thanks for watching, there is a fall away from the house which is hard to see but if you freeze the clip that shows the air brick at the rear doors and look at the level of the far brick work you will see its a half brick close to the house and a brick and half further to the left. Its such a shame you have a made up profile as i could have contacted you and given you more value for free. have a great day and watch some more of our videos please where we are helping people understand damp.
You have no value to offer; only painting or injecting walls and ignoring the route causes of the damp problems which take more work to fix but will provide the "value" to the customer of a job well done.
Alex Rae I do empathise with you and respect your opinion- you have my email address feel free to let me know what you would have done, you speak as if your in this business though I may be wrong. Thanks for being a fan, and if the videos bother you so much try watching love island although them blokes are not as good looking as me 😉
@@dampsam 😅😂🤣
Ground level yes is too high and water is simply entering the subfloor .....very easy to spot .....lower ground level.
Should there not be a gap anyway between the floorboards and the wall? as you have to factor in the thermal expansion of the floorboards? the when the skirting goes on you just seal that gap with a timber molding and fix to the skirting board? that would allow the expansion of the floorboards to occur freely and also seal the gaps and prevent any cold-spots? would like to be informed if I am wrong. Cheers
Stephen Mitchell the foam glue will allow any expansion once put in place and you don’t really want any timber touching the wall if it’s wet as timber is hygroscopic and will absorb moisture. It’s part of the isolation of the timbers.
Hi Sam, I’ve recently brought a house and had some damp proofing done - when taking off the skirting I’ve noticed the gap where the air brick is but they didn’t mention anything about it - should I do something to make sure it doesn’t effect the new damp course or will putting a cowl on it be enough? Thanks!
Hi, Iv answered your question on the latest live video i have recorded
Hi Sam. Thanks for what you’re doing! Just a quick one mate. Comparing products of Stormdry and Sovereign which are any better? Thanks
Hi thanks for watching.
They all come up to BBA standard but safeguard do go above and beyond.
Safeguard invented and were the first to bring out the injection creams plus loads of other products but Soveriegn can be cheaper and renderguard is great to use but can be a bit limiting.
I could go on all day, you really need to try them yourself to see what you think as one mans meat is another mans murder if you know what I mean.
@@dampsam thanks for your quick reply!
Hi mate do you need to install the rods under original dpc
Mark O'Leary hmmm 🤔, I’m puzzled by this statement, I would need to know more about the issue, if it has a physical dpc in place you would be talking about a bridging issue but as I don’t know the job I’m reluctant to comment.
Simon. You say the cold damp air is coming in from the air brick. Is the ground level too high. Surely if you lower the ground level to below 125 mm the problem will solved at a cost of a few hundred pounds.
Labour , removal of rubbish and pea gravel. Also if the building is of the age you say it it would be of a sand lime construction. Bed joints and perps. If you put on your storm dry paint your sealing in any moisture which has got in from the loose cement over pointing. The brickwork will have to loose moisture some how. Surely it will force itself out of the face of the brick or possibly through the mortar joint. Won't your your paint end up on the floor with the loose brick or mortar joint. I think rather than foaming and removing the plaster internally the best option would be to lower the external ground level and stop cold wet air raising the dew point and creating condensation internally.
Steve Murray thanks for your comments, lowering the ground level would cost more and look worse plus the salts contaminating the existing plaster will still spoil decoration as the wall dries out.
Steve Murray storm dry doesn’t seal in any moisture it’s been designed to allow water vapour as a gas through.
Exactly right. All that needs to be done is lower ground level. Every time it rains the water is pouring in the air brick making the sub floor damp. Not rocket science.
jacksticksmitch thanks for taking the time to watch the video, the customer does have a say on who carry’s out the work and there are different ways to do this work but have you considered that the home owner may not want a moat digging around the outside, it may sound a simple solution to you but other methods may suit.
Your more than welcome to come on a site visit with me and tell me an alternative method at the time and we can discuss the pros & cons of each.
@@dampsam Thanks Simon! I suppose the home owner must be happy to have ground water entering the sub floor !!
What did you use on chimney breast please?
It’s a product called NatCem35 👍
@@dampsam Thanks
Hi mate, great video, just a question. With the sealant painted on the outside of the wall, does moisture still escape from the cavity ok? Thanks
Matt Walker thanks for watching, the product applied to the masonry is StormDry Masonry Ptotection Cream Ana it’s not a sealant or what we call pore blocker like silicone based products, StormDry allows moisture as a gas (water vapour) to pass through the fabric .
Would adding a vent help? I got the same issue and someone advised adding a vent
Each property is different but I’d always advise to have a qualified damp surveyor look at the issues
Hi Sam. I have an single storey external solid wall which was rendered years ago. The render is blown and cracked and seems to be letting penetrating damp through to the interior. I'm not too keen to re-render in case the same things happens. Would it work if the old render was knocked off and the wall was painted with Stormdry masonry cream?
Hi James, It sounds like moisture may be getting trapped between the render and the masonry then penetrating inside. If you knock off the render you may need to re-point the wall, then you can apply the storm dry.
Just been drilling and rodding on outside, i've got two drain pipes in way (not movable) is there anything i can do ?
Also i've got an understair electric box with damp behind whats the correct process, box is going to be swopped but not for 3 weeks would like to get the house dry
smeggedup hi, you probably need a longer drill bit and go in at an angle where the pipes are.
We hack off the plaster up to the meter then isolate around it, so drill and inject and foam any plaster showing so it doesn’t bridge with the new system being installed.
@@dampsam thanks i've already hacked 1m of most of downstairs walls wifes gone mad we only got the keys on monday. just need to tackle electrics area. Then paint and board out.
I have a issue as there's a smell that's horrible but I can see any damp. I have dug up around the front of the house to see if there's moss ect. But nothink it's geting me down tbh I have called a few places and thay just say if there's nothink viable then thay can't help 🤔😔
time with evie can you describe the smell? What type of floors do you have? Suspended timber or solid?
It's a suspended floor mate. And it's like a mossy earthty musty smell smeel it more after its rained
time with evie I would try and lift the floor boards in places as it could be a wet rot issue affecting some timbers. If it was a strong mushroom smell that could be dry rot. Stand on different areas and bounce up and down slightly to see if the floor has any give. That could be a sign the joist is decayed.
Does make me laugh you refer to a British standard BS6576.......what about .....British Standard - BS 5250: Code of practice for controlling condensation in buildings, says; 'Accurate measurements of the moisture content of brick or mortar cannot be obtained by the use of electrical moisture meters because the presence of salts increases the electrical conductance of the water, giving falsely high .readings
Yes agree that’s why readings are put as %w/mc wood moisture content and %w/me wood moisture equivalent.
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW why are the damp industry continuing to use these tools to diagnose damp problems as this is incorrect and gives false readings every time
@@daleburns7110 the methods are tried and tested and good practice, I’m more than willing to take you to any of our previous customer so you can ask if the systems and diagnosis worked.
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW it’s covering up the problem you are not solving it
@@daleburns7110 well I respect your opinion and if it’s not for you that’s fine stop beating yourself up over it as everyone says your wrong.
Crap
Nice Comment, Thank you for taking the time to watch and come to that conclusion, very to the point.
Crap having rising damp .good job .
Hi can't hear you please speak up louder
Another one who doesn’t fix the route cause but applies unnecessary products to the building bad advice I’m afraid
Another made up profile by someone who has been trolling for 2 years. Are you having a bad week pal? Talk to someone if you need help