Thanks for the video! I'm looking forward to the video about the settings! Please take your time to explain each setting in depth 🙂 Keep up the great work!
Excited to watch your speedo setting video, I hope you go into great depth about boost, turbo, and drag brake. Great video about your current setup! you've convinced me to stay with HW! Can you explain internal ratio and why that matters when setting your FDR?
Thanks! FDR matters mainly because of the balance between RPM (top speed) and acceleration (bottom end). The car must not reach it's top speed too early on the straight (undergeared). And it may not take too long to reach its top speed (overgeared) which will also make the car feel a little flat and unresponsive in the infield (it will lack acceleration).
Hi there. Great video. Very nice cars. Maybe you can help me. I am in the process of building my 1/10 scale awd buggy. I am trying to setup the ESC properly but I am unable to any brakes. My gear is a Sanwa M17 transmitter and a RX-493 receiver. I have already done the binding of tx and rx and all settings on transmitter are default all curves are zeroed and also calibrated throttle and steering on the transmitter. For ESC I am using the HW XR10 Pro G2 and for motor the V10 G3R 13.5t. I have calibrated the ESC with the transmitter successfully and I have forward and reverse but I have no brakes. The ESC settings are default. I used the HW programming box connected to the PC. I Tried forward/reverse with brakes option and with this option I get 100% forward and 25% reverse but no brakes. I also tried the forward / brakes option and I still do'n't get brakes I can only go forwards. This is my first race kit build so I may be missing some setting or any other step. Maybe it is a setting in the ESC or maybe a setting on the radio (the radio is also new so still learning it and getting used with it). Any idea where I may have missed something or done something wrong? Maybe you can point in the right direction Thanks.
Great video. I have a question regarding the 2 different G2S models. One has the frameless fan and one doesn't. My concern with the frameless fan is when the fan goes out I will have to replace it with an expensive special fan. The elite model looks like it has a normal 30mm fan on top. Does the frameless fan modem accept a 30mm fan? I see the fan frame is built into the chassis now but not sure if you can remove the fan frame ans install a regular 30mm fan?
@hagberg yes the insert it. I was wondering if the frame also comes off or if the fan frame is attached to the esc base. I know they call thoa frameless but there is still a frame it's just not apart of the fan. Sometimes in stock racing we don't need a fan so I was just curious if this esc could work in different applications. Thank you
ciao Alex, it's me again, i'm having problem to weld the cables 14AWG into Esc and on the Elect Motor HW. i use the Sn/Pb 60/40 and is not working. do you Have any suggestion for me? any kind of solder? the connectors for the Elect Motor and for the ESC are kind of brass. i hope to receive your answer tnx in advance Antonio
I can recommend a silver solder wire. Most importantly it's important to use a very high power soldering station. I personally use an LRP/Nosram station which has 90W.
They're very smooth, but I never liked the feel of the power band! Just didn't suit my driving style. Didn't feel responsive enough between 0-30% throttle. If that makes sense.
Thx for the feedback. I ask because i see an important difference between my physical timing and the timing checked on my skyrc bench, whitch is quite lower (35 => 28 ; 30 => 22) on my HW G3 motor. It’s my first HW motor, is it a commun gap ?
@@benjebiraRC if the sensor board isn't that even between the phases, it can definitely have some variations between the endbell setting and the true timing. But I have no experience with the SkyRC machine. I use the Motolyser, which is the most commonly used and most precise motor checker tool on the market.
The G4 has a bit more RPM and also runs a bit cooler IMHO! Can't think of any disadvantages with the G4 over the G3R to be honest! This is for spec racing though. There's no G4 motor for modified racing yet!
Hello Alexander. i am going to race stock and modified with my 2019 T4. 110 spur is in the car, i will be getting a 17.5t and have a 6.5 T all from Hobbywing. What pinion range would i need? some indoor tracks are very small and indoors i will only use 17.5T Your videos are awesome. im getting back into RC after a long time away so feel very out of date tech wise but your videos speed up the learning.
Hi Mark, will you be running 17.5T blinky? Then aim for an FDR of around 4.0. Which can be achieved with 100/47 for example. For 6.5T modified, aim for an FDR of 6.9. So for example 110/30.
@@hagberg Thanks. i have found some local rules that say FDR must be 5 so i settled on a 100 to 38. Pinion material Alu or steel(is the weight here a problem?) Also could you please recommend a couple of high quality brands.
Ciao Alex , Very interesting video, i'm new in this E - world always run with 1/8 Nitro car. I just buy an xray 12 22 and i'm concerning about the combo Esc -Motor, i would like to know if is enough for start with XR10 PRO ESC - G2 and XERUN V10 G3 Brushless Moto r6.5T On Road Spec HW., waiting for your answer, i hope i do not take much of yr time thnx a lot anyway Antonio
Hi Antonio, the G2 ESC is a 2S ESC. So if you plan to run this with a 1S battery in your 1/12 car, you will need a DC-Booster (voltage booster) to power the receiver and servo. This kind of booster is available both from HW as well as other brands such as Motolyser (Laje). The 6.5T On-Road Spec motor is the best choice for the EFRA 6.5T Blinky Modified class. I personally use the XR10 PRO 1S HD ESC for which no voltage booster is needed.
@@hagberg 1st of all TNX a lot for the prompt response, i m going right away to order that, but just one other clarification, XR10 PRO 1S HD ESC can run with 2s LiPo Battery? anyway again TnX A lot much appreciate!
@@hagberg i'm working on cruise ship in USA Florida, i will order from HW North America. I see by Specs that the 6.5T On Road Spec Modified Class of 1/12th On-road Racing run with 2S battery. is it ok for the Motor? that's why i'm a bit confused I do apologize, I try to avoid to buy something wrong tnx Anyway!
From my experience, when the motor gets above 80 deg C, it looses a lot of efficency. And if it goes above 100 deg C, the magnet and/or stator can be damaged, and won't perform as good afterwards.
I've just got the HW30840005 non polarity capacitor to fit onto my non-G2 (i.e. G1) XR10. I think it can be soldered either way on a G2 as it's non polarity however for a non-G2 does this still matter?
@@hagberg Iam decided to go for a Hobbywing XERUN Justock Combo XR10 G3 with a 17.5T G2.1 Motor for my xray X4 23. As mentioned ealier i will be using it on a smaller asphalt track. 10-15m long straights. Which gearing do you reccommend for the X4. I saw you mentioned around 4 FDR ( (100spur/38pin)*1.9) ). Is this still the best starting point I should go for? And I would like to hear what you think about the hobbywing justock xr10 comboes in general :) cheers
@@MetalMathiasTP The Justock is a pretty solid combo, can't go wrong with it! For a small-ish track with a 17.5T motor, I would aim for an FDR of around 3.6-3.8.
@@MetalMathiasTP Keep your runs short (no longer than 5 minutes) and carefully monitor the temperature of your motor. I would suggest a spur gear of 96T and a pinion of 47-49T.
For stock racing you may use either the XR10 PRO G2 that I've suggested in the video, or the XR10 Stock Spec which also work really well (it's got a smaller foot print, because it's specifically made for stock racing). Which class are you running? Touring car?
@@hagberg I'm a newbie to the sport and this year is going to be my first racing year. I'll be running in the stock 17.5 sportsman touring class, the track/club is in SoCal and is short track with many turns, not so much straightaways and traction is low to medium. My goal is to find a gear set up that would allow me to the corners without too much on/off the throttle. I know my T4 came with 84T so wasn't sure what size pinion to go with. Also, noticed your full line of 64 pitch gears so that's something that I would like to experiment as well. Thanks for all the great video tutorials!
@@raymondwu9000 what type of motor/brand do you plan to use for the class? This will be important to try and determine the right gearing. A good starting point for a 17.5T motor on a technical asphalt track would be an FDR (final drive ratio) of around 4.00. This can be achieved for instance with a 100T spur and a 48T pinion, alternatively a 98T spur with a 46T pinion. I can really recommend 64 pitch spur gears for stock racing, since they allow you to fine tune your gear ratio a lot more. a 84T spur (48 pitch) which comes with the gear will be too big for you to reach the desired gear ratios for the 17.5T class.
@@hagberg I'm building 2 cars at the moment, so far i purchased the XR10 Stock with the 17.5T motor as a combo for the first car. The second one I'll try the XR10 Pro and maybe with the same motor or try the Reedy 17.5T. Ordered the 64 pitch gears hope to try it this week..thanks!
1/10 touring is just too expensive 🤦♂️I'm struggling to get the electronics that will give me more of a chance in racing, its either have a big cash flow, or just be slow due to equipment bought cheaper
Very informative video. Thanks for sharing. Waiting for next chapter
Thanks for the video! I'm looking forward to the video about the settings! Please take your time to explain each setting in depth 🙂 Keep up the great work!
Very informative and helpful. Thanks!
Excited to watch your speedo setting video, I hope you go into great depth about boost, turbo, and drag brake. Great video about your current setup! you've convinced me to stay with HW! Can you explain internal ratio and why that matters when setting your FDR?
Thanks! FDR matters mainly because of the balance between RPM (top speed) and acceleration (bottom end). The car must not reach it's top speed too early on the straight (undergeared). And it may not take too long to reach its top speed (overgeared) which will also make the car feel a little flat and unresponsive in the infield (it will lack acceleration).
@@hagberg Thanks Alex. Good luck on your upcoming races. Your videos are an immense help.
Love these. great job.
Hi there. Great video. Very nice cars.
Maybe you can help me.
I am in the process of building my 1/10 scale awd buggy.
I am trying to setup the ESC properly but I am unable to any brakes.
My gear is a Sanwa M17 transmitter and a RX-493 receiver. I have already done the binding of tx and rx and all settings on transmitter are default all curves are zeroed and also calibrated throttle and steering on the transmitter.
For ESC I am using the HW XR10 Pro G2 and for motor the V10 G3R 13.5t. I have calibrated the ESC with the transmitter successfully and I have forward and reverse but I have no brakes.
The ESC settings are default. I used the HW programming box connected to the PC. I Tried forward/reverse with brakes option and with this option I get 100% forward and 25% reverse but no brakes. I also tried the forward / brakes option and I still do'n't get brakes I can only go forwards.
This is my first race kit build so I may be missing some setting or any other step.
Maybe it is a setting in the ESC or maybe a setting on the radio (the radio is also new so still learning it and getting used with it).
Any idea where I may have missed something or done something wrong?
Maybe you can point in the right direction
Thanks.
Great video. I have a question regarding the 2 different G2S models. One has the frameless fan and one doesn't. My concern with the frameless fan is when the fan goes out I will have to replace it with an expensive special fan. The elite model looks like it has a normal 30mm fan on top. Does the frameless fan modem accept a 30mm fan? I see the fan frame is built into the chassis now but not sure if you can remove the fan frame ans install a regular 30mm fan?
The frameless fan insert is replaceable, see link: www.hobbywingdirect.com/products/cooling-fan-cyclone-ffd?variant=39658207150195
@hagberg yes the insert it. I was wondering if the frame also comes off or if the fan frame is attached to the esc base. I know they call thoa frameless but there is still a frame it's just not apart of the fan. Sometimes in stock racing we don't need a fan so I was just curious if this esc could work in different applications. Thank you
Thanks bud 🤘
Thanks Alex always very interesting and clear your videos .... may I ask you which receiver do you have on the carpet T4?
Thanks! It's the RX493
ciao Alex,
it's me again,
i'm having problem to weld the cables 14AWG into Esc and on the Elect Motor HW.
i use the Sn/Pb 60/40 and is not working.
do you Have any suggestion for me? any kind of solder? the connectors for the Elect Motor and for the ESC are kind of brass.
i hope to receive your answer
tnx in advance
Antonio
I can recommend a silver solder wire. Most importantly it's important to use a very high power soldering station. I personally use an LRP/Nosram station which has 90W.
@@hagberg tnx a lot once again for your support, is impressive your humbleness
Thank you for the very clear explanations Alex! What about the titanium rotors? Have you ever used them? If yes, what is your preference?
They're very smooth, but I never liked the feel of the power band! Just didn't suit my driving style. Didn't feel responsive enough between 0-30% throttle. If that makes sense.
Hi Alex
Great video, do you recommend a fan for 17.5T and XR10 stock esc for touring?
For the motor yes! For the ESC no.
Hi Alex, when you talk about motor timing, is it 32 - 35 - 37 average degrees observed on a motor bench ? Thx a lot
Yes, ideally measured on the motolyser.
Thx for the feedback. I ask because i see an important difference between my physical timing and the timing checked on my skyrc bench, whitch is quite lower (35 => 28 ; 30 => 22) on my HW G3 motor. It’s my first HW motor, is it a commun gap ?
@@benjebiraRC if the sensor board isn't that even between the phases, it can definitely have some variations between the endbell setting and the true timing. But I have no experience with the SkyRC machine. I use the Motolyser, which is the most commonly used and most precise motor checker tool on the market.
Thanks Alex for taking the time to answer !
did you switch over to G4 motors? what's the good or bad you experienced in comparison?
The G4 has a bit more RPM and also runs a bit cooler IMHO! Can't think of any disadvantages with the G4 over the G3R to be honest! This is for spec racing though. There's no G4 motor for modified racing yet!
Hello Alexander. i am going to race stock and modified with my 2019 T4. 110 spur is in the car, i will be getting a 17.5t and have a 6.5 T all from Hobbywing.
What pinion range would i need? some indoor tracks are very small and indoors i will only use 17.5T
Your videos are awesome. im getting back into RC after a long time away so feel very out of date tech wise but your videos speed up the learning.
Hi Mark, will you be running 17.5T blinky? Then aim for an FDR of around 4.0. Which can be achieved with 100/47 for example. For 6.5T modified, aim for an FDR of 6.9. So for example 110/30.
@@hagberg Thanks. i have found some local rules that say FDR must be 5 so i settled on a 100 to 38. Pinion material Alu or steel(is the weight here a problem?) Also could you please recommend a couple of high quality brands.
@Mark McEntee I personally use HUDY pinions. If you can't find HUDY, other good brands are RW, Core RC and Axon.
Ciao Alex ,
Very interesting video, i'm new in this E - world always run with 1/8 Nitro car. I just buy an xray 12 22 and i'm concerning about the combo Esc -Motor, i would like to know if is enough for start with XR10 PRO ESC - G2 and XERUN V10 G3 Brushless Moto r6.5T On Road Spec HW., waiting for your answer, i hope i do not take much of yr time
thnx a lot anyway Antonio
Hi Antonio, the G2 ESC is a 2S ESC. So if you plan to run this with a 1S battery in your 1/12 car, you will need a DC-Booster (voltage booster) to power the receiver and servo. This kind of booster is available both from HW as well as other brands such as Motolyser (Laje). The 6.5T On-Road Spec motor is the best choice for the EFRA 6.5T Blinky Modified class. I personally use the XR10 PRO 1S HD ESC for which no voltage booster is needed.
@@hagberg 1st of all TNX a lot for the prompt response, i m going right away to order that, but just one other clarification,
XR10 PRO 1S HD ESC can run with 2s LiPo Battery?
anyway
again TnX A lot much appreciate!
do u mind to send me the right link where to buy XR10 PRO 1S HD ESC
please!
@@antoniocoppola5996 the 1S ESC can't be used with 2S! This has to be used exclusively in 1/12 cars. Where are you located?
@@hagberg i'm working on cruise ship in USA Florida, i will order from HW North America. I see by Specs that the 6.5T On Road Spec Modified Class of 1/12th On-road Racing run with 2S battery. is it ok for the Motor? that's why i'm a bit confused I do apologize, I try to avoid to buy something wrong
tnx Anyway!
Would you say there is an ideal motor temperature and if thats the case what is it? Also great video🙂
From my experience, when the motor gets above 80 deg C, it looses a lot of efficency. And if it goes above 100 deg C, the magnet and/or stator can be damaged, and won't perform as good afterwards.
@@hagberg thank you so much for the quick and good response🙂
I've just got the HW30840005 non polarity capacitor to fit onto my non-G2 (i.e. G1) XR10. I think it can be soldered either way on a G2 as it's non polarity however for a non-G2 does this still matter?
The capacitor is non-polarity regardless of what ESC version it's soldered onto.
Hi Alex. What gear ratio fdr do you recommend for a 13.5 turn Stock Racing setup on small outdoor Asphalt?
4.1-4.3 for the Hobbywing G4.
@@hagberg Iam decided to go for a Hobbywing XERUN Justock Combo XR10 G3 with a 17.5T G2.1 Motor for my xray X4 23. As mentioned ealier i will be using it on a smaller asphalt track. 10-15m long straights. Which gearing do you reccommend for the X4. I saw you mentioned around 4 FDR ( (100spur/38pin)*1.9) ). Is this still the best starting point I should go for? And I would like to hear what you think about the hobbywing justock xr10 comboes in general :) cheers
@@MetalMathiasTP The Justock is a pretty solid combo, can't go wrong with it! For a small-ish track with a 17.5T motor, I would aim for an FDR of around 3.6-3.8.
@@hagberg Thanks! Which combo of spur/pinion will suit this? And will I have a risk of overheating motor/esc?
@@MetalMathiasTP Keep your runs short (no longer than 5 minutes) and carefully monitor the temperature of your motor. I would suggest a spur gear of 96T and a pinion of 47-49T.
is it a must to use capacitor on these speedos?
For 2S yes. For the HW 1S ESC it's built in.
@@hagberg ok then i let the capacitors be on the ESC.
For stock setup and racing (17.5 to 21.5) what Hobbywing motor/esc and gears setup would you recommend?
For stock racing you may use either the XR10 PRO G2 that I've suggested in the video, or the XR10 Stock Spec which also work really well (it's got a smaller foot print, because it's specifically made for stock racing). Which class are you running? Touring car?
@@hagberg I'm a newbie to the sport and this year is going to be my first racing year. I'll be running in the stock 17.5 sportsman touring class, the track/club is in SoCal and is short track with many turns, not so much straightaways and traction is low to medium. My goal is to find a gear set up that would allow me to the corners without too much on/off the throttle. I know my T4 came with 84T so wasn't sure what size pinion to go with. Also, noticed your full line of 64 pitch gears so that's something that I would like to experiment as well. Thanks for all the great video tutorials!
@@raymondwu9000 what type of motor/brand do you plan to use for the class? This will be important to try and determine the right gearing. A good starting point for a 17.5T motor on a technical asphalt track would be an FDR (final drive ratio) of around 4.00. This can be achieved for instance with a 100T spur and a 48T pinion, alternatively a 98T spur with a 46T pinion. I can really recommend 64 pitch spur gears for stock racing, since they allow you to fine tune your gear ratio a lot more. a 84T spur (48 pitch) which comes with the gear will be too big for you to reach the desired gear ratios for the 17.5T class.
@@hagberg I'm building 2 cars at the moment, so far i purchased the XR10 Stock with the 17.5T motor as a combo for the first car. The second one I'll try the XR10 Pro and maybe with the same motor or try the Reedy 17.5T. Ordered the 64 pitch gears hope to try it this week..thanks!
Where do you get all the orange screws?
Hiro Seiko
1/10 touring is just too expensive 🤦♂️I'm struggling to get the electronics that will give me more of a chance in racing, its either have a big cash flow, or just be slow due to equipment bought cheaper