Tip for anyone doing this job: 1) Take out a bolt and spray brake cleaner on the adjuster, mostly it will be covered in dirt so basically it is impossible to see when it is dirty. 2) Directions to tighten & loosen: Passenger side = Flick adjuster UP to tighten & flick DOWN to loosen. Driver's side = IS THE REVERSE OF THE ABOVE. 👍🏼
I think it’s hilarious how people like b7tmy and j3ese have units to put wind deflectors on their car and the savage garage is actually the savage drive way
Copper slip will promote corrosion between aluminium and steel. You should only use copper slip on steel to steel applications. You could use aluminium anti seize which won't cause galvanic corrosion.
@@TheFakeRussian as I said it should only be used for steel to steel applications. Adding a more noble metal (copper) to an application will promote corrosion.
@@TheFakeRussian ok. So the first msds sheet for copper grease I looked up has cas 7440-50-8 on it. But it doesn't contain copper, it's just colour. 🤦♂️ Mate do your research before you open your mouth in future. You don't have a clue and worst of all didn't bother to look it up before you opened your mouth.
@@mattblackledge9068 Copper grease is an anti-seize compound consisting of fine copper particles in a non-melting Bentone (a type of clay) base to which are added highly effective oxidation and corrosion inhibitors. Copper grease is used for mating surfaces which work under high temperatures. Copper grease is effective within the temperature range of of - 40° to + 1,150° celsius making it an ideal choice for use on wheel nuts & bolts, flanges, studs and exhaust brackets to prevent seizing. Of course brakes never get hot do they?
A great way I was taught of getting stuck wheels of corroded discs was to slacken the wheel nuts slightly, drive the car around the block a few times and then remove your wheels. Worked every time!
You are correct. But he couldn't possibly advise doing that here as some snowflake might hurt themselves... there's always someone who would take the nuts off and drive it til the wheel fell off. You can't teach stupid... haha
Had the same when I first took the wheels off my ST. Galvanic corrosion between the two metals kept them welded together. Put a nut back on with a few turns, block of wood against the tyre and a good swing with a lump hammer will shift them. Proper clean and copper grease the back of the wheel and disc bell.
Also when using cars with bolts instead of nuts, look for a wheel alignment hanger, about £6 on eBay, makes refitting the wheel much easier when there’s no studs to hang them on.
I had one of my previous cars handbrake give up after being in a pub for well over a hour playing pool . The landlord gave out the registration and we went outside . Only for me to get the giggles as two blokes were holding my car from hitting their car . It was lucky as they had only just arrived and as they started walking to the back they realised what was happening . Yes on this occasion I found funny but could of been so bad as it was a family pub and in front of their car was the kids play area . Good video
Please say that you cleansed the discs area with brake cleaner after as the discs were covered in oil. Also the first tyre you showed was shot. It looks like it really needs to be replaced. Keep up the good videos mate.
That ‘spring thing’ under the handbrake lever is the auto adjuster, you should make sure the lever is down then use a screw driver to compress the spring down, a metal hook will appear in the middle of the spring head and hold it compressed, this puts it in service mode, you then adjust the rear shoes and then release the spring 👍
my mk5 golf handbrake needs adjusting but according to a video i seen on autodoc channel, it doesnt seem to have inboard shoes on the rear so i guess it wont have the cog for me to adjust? how do you adjust in a situation like this if adjusting at the trim stretches the cables?
@@saulgoodman7495 Mk5 are fully automatic rear calipers sometimes they stick inside normally putting in new rear pads makes them perfect again if you have a caliper wind back tool 👍 do not force them if you don't have the right tool
My Volvo has similar set up. The problem is that the shoes and drums never get worn because they're only applied when the car is stationary so rust builds up inside the hat. The trick is to sometimes apply the handbrake gently while the car is rolling to clear the braking surfaces of rust. Do it in reverse direction as well as forward. To release alloys that are corroded to the hub try swinging a spare wheel perpendicular into one side of the tyre, that will usually break it free.
Hi James, top tip for stuck wheels. When the car is on the ground with the wheel on slacken all the wheel blots by about three turns then rock the car from side to side, that should brake the seal between wheel and hub then jack back up and remove bolts and wheel as normal. Keep up the good work. Great chanel. Regards Brian
Had exactly the same problem getting the wheels off my BMW 520d F10. Only really need apply the copper slip around the centre ring. Had a hell of a job getting the discs/Rotors off too. Another good instructive video.
I wouldn't name call, we all make mistakes, I know I do. We're only human after all, plus theres hardly any good videos.... The video is of great quality, compared to others
@@cal844 That'll work fine for the disc but coz the pads composite material once ya get grease or oil on em it stays ingrained in em. So far as I kno. Cant mess around with brakes. A Scouse mechanic who fixed a binding caliper for me back in tha 90's told me that its them that stops ya driving into a wall :D Since then Ive always been of the opinion that brake pads are cheap compared to wall repairs :D
Just discovered your videos, I'm a big fan. I much prefer your style of going through everything real-time as it gives me a chance to learn. I really think the sort of 'Ed China' style presentation suits you. Some other channels gloss over all this stuff and speed it up which isn't for me. Subbed. :)
Just a few tips for advice, getting stuck wheels off: use a copper hide hammer (search thor hammer on ebay) instead of using WD40 as u sprayed it around the disc area and into the wheel bolt holes which means its all over the shoes, discs and pads now. Also only hit the inside face as it wont do any visible damage from the outside. Also that is a crack in the disc by the looks of things so id look at getting some new shoes, discs and pads as your best off doing it all in one go ;)
Those rear hand brake shoes are soaked in wd40 now because you sprayed it through the wheel bolt holes to help release the wheel. these holes to straight in the drum think I'd do a complete overhal replacement of rear brakes now
Best way to get stuck wheels off is to put 2 or 3 bolts back in not fully tight and very gently lower the car the wheel just releases with the weight. Done it many times, top tip Wednesday
I'm surprised too. But BMW do like to waste metal, just look at those metal wheel nut covers!!! BMW always seem to sell new caliper bolts with their brake pads too, not come across any other manufacturer that does the same. The handbrake on my 2005 Mini has BMW brakes but the handbrake uses the normal pads that the foot brake uses.
If your handbrake is a bit dodgy remember when you park on a gradient to point your front wheels to the kerb and it will just bump against the kerb and stop. :)
The hand brake does self adjust, you will find that the fittings and adjuster to be covered in dust, you'll be doing a full brake overhaul to remedy it.
I do a lot of inbound shoes brake jobs I find if you adjust it all the way out to its max (so the disc wont move) then back it off 2 clicks it will be perfect.
i would look into what made that knocking noise when you tried to spin the rear driverside wheel with the handbrake on, as far as i am aware that shouldn't make that noise
That is very common on BMW, doesn't effect the holding on the parking brake they just rock about 5 mm each way down to a very very basic design and he probably could of made the other side make the same noise by rocking it harder
Hey! vehicle speed sensor A circuit is left or right forward on my car? (BMW 1 series 2006) Beaucuse the P0500 is the even now sometimes (yellow egine light) The rings ABS back is fine and ABS sensor.
I put copper grease on the hubs too but 1/10th of what you did. Nowadays it's not good practice to use copper grease on alloy wheels as It causes galvanic corrosion. Trivial
Considering the car is an unknown quantity I think it would have been good practice to remove the disc:hub assemblies and inspected the wear on the shoes. Particularly considering the amount of travel at the handbrake. They could be down to the rivets potentially damaging the inside of the drum?
@thesavagegarage i cannot believe you just done this video, as my Mercedes w211 has just failed on handbrake which is same set up as BMW. so you have just taught me something i didn't know thank you
Another great video, I had the same issue with the wheel being stuck on the hub 30 mins after I bought the car and had a blowout on the M40 🤦♂️ the RAC guy used a dead blow hammer to get it off. The copper grease really needs to go round the centre of the hub that sits in the back of the wheel. Keep up the good work.
From what i heard you shouldnt apply grease directly on the face of the hub, only the lip (dont know the proper word) Since if you grease the hub-face the point of torque impact is just the bolts. Wheras if you dont grease the face its friction takes most the torque. Hard breaking can damage the wheel bolts i think.
When you loosening your wheel nuts always press down and don’t pull up as you could put your back out. You can put more pressure pushing down with your body weight and don’t use extension as you could slip of the wheel nuts. Also best using a impact socket as it has six sides to it for better grip than a standard socket which usually has a splined finish to them inside.🤗🤗🤗🤗
Inboard shoes is the name for that rear brake setup. didnt realise 1 series had them. p.s. you put it in gear to stop it rolling once you lifted it... but its rwd.
I'd also check the front wheels aren't that hard to get off sooner rather than later. 2 to 7 clicks is not.bad but for mot it must have some reserve travel.
James, for those tight spaces perhaps you could use your microscope camera. It won't be great quality but as it has LED on the head of the camera, we'll still be able to see.
ha ha my 1966 beetle handbrakes adjusted like that......also my 2000 vectra had the same rear brake and handbrake set up however it adjusted at the lever
When i do my handbrake adjustment i remove the caliper then remove disc, normally they are full of brake dust ? Blow it out then use say 180 grit paper and scuff linings , lubricate link on handbrake mechanism , on fords they give a measurement of brake shoe diameter before refitting disc, also make sure you clean corrosion from alloy wheel centre part before refitting wheel, clean metal surface inside of disc with brake cleaner, i think you overdid it with copperslip ?i was told that at speed it can spin off on to brake components, great content btw ,,🚗🚗
You need new shoes on the passenger side if you can't lock it off. But if you change the discs then that's effectively new drums. But I'd do the shoes too.
All hand breaks should be adjusted from the wheels, most have self adjusting mechanisms. The cable adjustment just sets the cable tension not the pad to drum clearance.
This question is for anyone to answer. But I wondered if when judging the point that the wheels can move freely and with how much force, would doing on with wheel on, and other just spinning hub make it harder/less accurate to judge, because I can imagine the larger diameter of spinning from the tyre gives more leverage (It’s really hard to find correct words, especially when I’m no mechanic)? That said, think MOT is probably the only conclusive way of knowing.
You know its not very safe but if i have to get a wheel off thats seized i position myself on the ground in such a way the car can't fall on me but behind the wheel in question and kick it, spin it and then kick it again. Normally that pops them off within a few strikes. Always quick with my foot so it can't be trapped under the car if it were to fall off the jack stands. The wheels love to seize on my Toyota. Worst one i ever did was a Ford Transit with a dual wheel rear axle. The outer one i managed to beat off but the inner one was seized. So we put the wheel nuts back on a tiny bit slack and tore around the car park in it until we hear "dud, dud, dud, dud, dud".
Don't worry too much about the gearbox if you leave it in gear when parked. It will only load up the gearbox if the vehicle actually moves, in which case it probably just saved you from an expensive repair bill or two. The only problem is if it is started by someone who has a habit of just assuming a vehicle is in neutral and tries to turn it over. Obviously it is a always good idea to check the gearbox is in neutral before starting anyway, just as a habit, but not everyone is that smart.
This is a fussy job. One of those that's best to do if you're also removing/replacing the rotor. You can get a good look at the cog-and-bolt adjustment mechanism, which will help you visualize what you're doing after you put the rotor back on and start tightening. And yeah, everything is reversed between the two sides!
So I jacked up the rear of my 1 series, took one lug nut out (the other 4 I literally couldn't break with the breaker bar I've got, gonna get a longer one). Spun the wheel to this position and could only see the spring inside, I couldn't find the cog at all - even feeling around for it using a screwdriver. Any ideas?
Best way to get stuck wheels off the hubs is too Loosen wheel nuts and then drive vehicle back and forwards about 6 inches rejack up wheels will come off
I've done this on a X5 and a 320i, check the teeth on the handbrake lever ratchet as they're bad for blunting the teeth and the handbrake will release on it's own, happened to two of my BMW's but the 2005 X5 was the worst one for it but hopefully the ones after that were sorted out.
Had this on my Z4 2004 and it would randomly drop. Gave up trying to replace as had to remove exhaust and drive shaft and let garage do.700 quid for MOT.
@savage garage Hi James hope you had a good Christmas and your having a good new year so far glad to see you back missed your videos looking forward to see more of the same as last year nice one James good as always 👍
My back wheels often seize onto the drum brakes on my Corolla. Just lay near the back of the car and kick fuck out of the wheel from the inside, it soon comes loose ;)
Never rely on your parking hand brake when parking on a hill...always leave your car in 1st gear, and turn steering wheels towards the kerb..This applies whether you are facing uphill or downhill..😎
Should really push down on a breaker bar instead of pulling up. One, you can use your body weight to free off nut/bolt easier. Two, you have the potential to knock/lift the car off a stand/jack pulling up like that 👍🏻
When are you doing any more work on the bmw very interested I have an f30 3series and need to replace cracked headlight but you cannot replace with second hand part as software will not recognise it so I am told.Is this going to be an ongoing problem with bmw .Also do you needs ista d software rather than generic scanner.your opinion would be appreciated.
the handbrake should always be adjusted at the wheels, adjusting it inside the trim is only adjusting the cable ,which can stretch the cables also covering the disks with wd40 not a good idea and spraying it in the stud holes will contaminate the hand brake shoes how do you know they have lining left without removing the disk to inspect the shoes your playing with brakes make sure you do it right your life and maybe mine are involved if you cannot stop because of contaminated rear pads
If you leave the other wheel on and spin it, it will be easier, so you won't get the feel, so you will adjust it more than the other side, and it would send off the balance between the two wheels? Handbrake wont be even
@@AndyK.1 make it law: if it is frost or snow and you dont have tires for it, 75eur ticket every tire that's the wrong type for snow and ice on the car. That's how we do it and everyone drives with winters
When wheel won't come off, try putting a brick or wooden block under the inner half of the tyre, then lower the jack until the wheel pops off. Simples.
putting it in gear wont do anything when jacking, its rwd, also, bmw wheel nuts always seems to get tight, happens everytime I bring one into the workshop
Easy way to get the wheel off. Get your leg in behind it and kick the tyre with your heel. Works every time for me. May take a couple of kicks but easy peasy. 😉😉
Tip for anyone doing this job:
1) Take out a bolt and spray brake cleaner on the adjuster, mostly it will be covered in dirt so basically it is impossible to see when it is dirty.
2) Directions to tighten & loosen: Passenger side = Flick adjuster UP to tighten & flick DOWN to loosen.
Driver's side = IS THE REVERSE OF THE ABOVE. 👍🏼
I think it’s hilarious how people like b7tmy and j3ese have units to put wind deflectors on their car and the savage garage is actually the savage drive way
This is why we like it! It is real world stuff.
Zadster yep, battling in the wind and rain on the driveway and swearing at stuff lol..
Copper slip will promote corrosion between aluminium and steel. You should only use copper slip on steel to steel applications. You could use aluminium anti seize which won't cause galvanic corrosion.
Copper slip is a compound to PREVENT two surfaces bonding together. It doesn't make them bond.
@@TheFakeRussian as I said it should only be used for steel to steel applications. Adding a more noble metal (copper) to an application will promote corrosion.
@@mattblackledge9068 LMAO, copper grease is NOT copper, it's called copper grease because of its colour not its components.
@@TheFakeRussian ok. So the first msds sheet for copper grease I looked up has cas 7440-50-8 on it. But it doesn't contain copper, it's just colour. 🤦♂️ Mate do your research before you open your mouth in future. You don't have a clue and worst of all didn't bother to look it up before you opened your mouth.
@@mattblackledge9068 Copper grease is an anti-seize compound consisting of fine copper particles in a non-melting Bentone (a type of clay) base to which are added highly effective oxidation and corrosion inhibitors. Copper grease is used for mating surfaces which work under high temperatures. Copper grease is effective within the temperature range of of - 40° to + 1,150° celsius making it an ideal choice for use on wheel nuts & bolts, flanges, studs and exhaust brackets to prevent seizing. Of course brakes never get hot do they?
A great way I was taught of getting stuck wheels of corroded discs was to slacken the wheel nuts slightly, drive the car around the block a few times and then remove your wheels. Worked every time!
You are correct. But he couldn't possibly advise doing that here as some snowflake might hurt themselves... there's always someone who would take the nuts off and drive it til the wheel fell off. You can't teach stupid... haha
That’s what I’ve done, most will break the rust seal just dropping the car back down with wheel on the jack
Richard Atkinson Exactly. Driving around is overkill. The weight of the car alone will easily overcome the rust.
Had the same when I first took the wheels off my ST. Galvanic corrosion between the two metals kept them welded together. Put a nut back on with a few turns, block of wood against the tyre and a good swing with a lump hammer will shift them. Proper clean and copper grease the back of the wheel and disc bell.
Also when using cars with bolts instead of nuts, look for a wheel alignment hanger, about £6 on eBay, makes refitting the wheel much easier when there’s no studs to hang them on.
Richie Wong many German cars have this already in the small toolkit.
I had one of my previous cars handbrake give up after being in a pub for well over a hour playing pool . The landlord gave out the registration and we went outside . Only for me to get the giggles as two blokes were holding my car from hitting their car . It was lucky as they had only just arrived and as they started walking to the back they realised what was happening . Yes on this occasion I found funny but could of been so bad as it was a family pub and in front of their car was the kids play area . Good video
Please say that you cleansed the discs area with brake cleaner after as the discs were covered in oil. Also the first tyre you showed was shot. It looks like it really needs to be replaced. Keep up the good videos mate.
That ‘spring thing’ under the handbrake lever is the auto adjuster, you should make sure the lever is down then use a screw driver to compress the spring down, a metal hook will appear in the middle of the spring head and hold it compressed, this puts it in service mode, you then adjust the rear shoes and then release the spring 👍
I was just looking to see if anyone else mentioned this but you beat me to it,James take note mate.
jason searle tbh I only found out when an ex BMW tech started at my workshop, I’d also hate to see my wheels removed that way!
Which never works as I have found at least twice and I gave up then sent the cars to the dealer
Love the new intro, also the video seems a lot better (editing wise) keep up the good work🤠🤠
the handbrake should always be adjusted at the wheels, adjusting it inside the trim is only adjusting the cable ,which can stretch the cables
my mk5 golf handbrake needs adjusting but according to a video i seen on autodoc channel, it doesnt seem to have inboard shoes on the rear so i guess it wont have the cog for me to adjust? how do you adjust in a situation like this if adjusting at the trim stretches the cables?
Yunno Was gunna say that but thought I would be wasting my time
@@saulgoodman7495 Mk5 are fully automatic rear calipers sometimes they stick inside normally putting in new rear pads makes them perfect again if you have a caliper wind back tool 👍 do not force them if you don't have the right tool
ok i will give that a go thanks
My Volvo has similar set up. The problem is that the shoes and drums never get worn because they're only applied when the car is stationary so rust builds up inside the hat.
The trick is to sometimes apply the handbrake gently while the car is rolling to clear the braking surfaces of rust. Do it in reverse direction as well as forward.
To release alloys that are corroded to the hub try swinging a spare wheel perpendicular into one side of the tyre, that will usually break it free.
Hi James, top tip for stuck wheels.
When the car is on the ground with the wheel on slacken all the wheel blots by about three turns then rock the car from side to side, that should brake the seal between wheel and hub then jack back up and remove bolts and wheel as normal. Keep up the good work. Great chanel.
Regards Brian
Had exactly the same problem getting the wheels off my BMW 520d F10. Only really need apply the copper slip around the centre ring. Had a hell of a job getting the discs/Rotors off too. Another good instructive video.
Never ever use wd40 near brakes. To get the wheel off give it a few hard hits with a plastic hammer.
I wouldn't name call, we all make mistakes, I know I do. We're only human after all, plus theres hardly any good videos.... The video is of great quality, compared to others
Wd40 on his brake pads now. That cant be cleaned off can it ?
@@SPIDERM0OSE I usually just spray it all with brake clean but it isn't really viable
@@cal844
That'll work fine for the disc but coz the pads composite material once ya get grease or oil on em it stays ingrained in em. So far as I kno.
Cant mess around with brakes. A Scouse mechanic who fixed a binding caliper for me back in tha 90's told me that its them that stops ya driving into a wall :D
Since then Ive always been of the opinion that brake pads are cheap compared to wall repairs :D
The WD40 will burn off, slowly as long as the WD hasn't seeped deep into the pads.
Cal
The subtle BMW restoration is progressing nicely!!.
Just discovered your videos, I'm a big fan. I much prefer your style of going through everything real-time as it gives me a chance to learn. I really think the sort of 'Ed China' style presentation suits you. Some other channels gloss over all this stuff and speed it up which isn't for me. Subbed. :)
Just a few tips for advice, getting stuck wheels off: use a copper hide hammer (search thor hammer on ebay) instead of using WD40 as u sprayed it around the disc area and into the wheel bolt holes which means its all over the shoes, discs and pads now. Also only hit the inside face as it wont do any visible damage from the outside. Also that is a crack in the disc by the looks of things so id look at getting some new shoes, discs and pads as your best off doing it all in one go ;)
Those rear hand brake shoes are soaked in wd40 now because you sprayed it through the wheel bolt holes to help release the wheel. these holes to straight in the drum think I'd do a complete overhal replacement of rear brakes now
Best way to get stuck wheels off is to put 2 or 3 bolts back in not fully tight and very gently lower the car the wheel just releases with the weight. Done it many times, top tip Wednesday
I had an early 90s cavalier with that kind of hub set up, thought BMW would of had a more modern set up!!!!!!. Great vid as usual.
I'm surprised too. But BMW do like to waste metal, just look at those metal wheel nut covers!!! BMW always seem to sell new caliper bolts with their brake pads too, not come across any other manufacturer that does the same.
The handbrake on my 2005 Mini has BMW brakes but the handbrake uses the normal pads that the foot brake uses.
I always park my car in gear as well as using the handbrake.
Pritesh Champaneri my dad has taught me that way too!
Same, and point the tyres in towards the kerb
Yeah if it’s facing down hill leave it in reverse! 😉
New Intro is great and the editing is on point as always
yes James loving the new intro and the music love it when you do more mechanical uploads like this
If your handbrake is a bit dodgy remember when you park on a gradient to point your front wheels to the kerb and it will just bump against the kerb and stop. :)
Corvettes have had a drum/disk parking brake since the first disk brake Corvettes appeared in 1965. Nice music towards the end of the video.
The hand brake does self adjust, you will find that the fittings and adjuster to be covered in dust, you'll be doing a full brake overhaul to remedy it.
You should never adjust the e brake from the driver seat, that only adjust the cables. You always adjust at the drums
When you do your adjustments do you have the handbrake on or off?
@@stevenquelch5063 off.
I've got more respect for this guy than the other car nonce on TH-cam. We all can relate to him.
Best way to get stuck wheel off for me is to throw the spare at it 🤣
Haha
@@tcjay119 haha
This made me laugh more than it should, the image of someone throwing their spare tyre at the other.
Absolutely, swinging the spare wheel at the stuck one works every time👍
Few twats with a 4lb hammer works for me on lorrys use a sledgehammer
Love the way he said I’ll leave it in gear so it doesn’t roll back 🤣🤣🤣 quality comment for the rwd
I do a lot of inbound shoes brake jobs I find if you adjust it all the way out to its max (so the disc wont move) then back it off 2 clicks it will be perfect.
Always put it into reverse and wheels towards kerb to avoid the rolling away saga
Nice new intro btw
My uncle used to do that.
Always adjust the handbrake at the wheels first, if you just adjust it at the lever you could end up stretching the cables
The first tyre you took off looked like it had a nail in it. Keep up the good work.
i would look into what made that knocking noise when you tried to spin the rear driverside wheel with the handbrake on, as far as i am aware that shouldn't make that noise
That is very common on BMW, doesn't effect the holding on the parking brake they just rock about 5 mm each way down to a very very basic design and he probably could of made the other side make the same noise by rocking it harder
Good idea on the chock, as it would roll back being rear wheel drive
Hey! vehicle speed sensor A circuit is left or right forward on my car? (BMW 1 series 2006) Beaucuse the P0500 is the even now sometimes (yellow egine light) The rings ABS back is fine and ABS sensor.
Lots of cars have that drum/disc system for handbrake and Rick setup.
The first tyre you showed looks like it had the head of a nail in it.
Kicking off 2020 man like savage garage
I put copper grease on the hubs too but 1/10th of what you did. Nowadays it's not good practice to use copper grease on alloy wheels as It causes galvanic corrosion. Trivial
Considering the car is an unknown quantity I think it would have been good practice to remove the disc:hub assemblies and inspected the wear on the shoes. Particularly considering the amount of travel at the handbrake. They could be down to the rivets potentially damaging the inside of the drum?
@thesavagegarage i cannot believe you just done this video, as my Mercedes w211 has just failed on handbrake which is same set up as BMW. so you have just taught me something i didn't know thank you
Another great video, I had the same issue with the wheel being stuck on the hub 30 mins after I bought the car and had a blowout on the M40 🤦♂️ the RAC guy used a dead blow hammer to get it off. The copper grease really needs to go round the centre of the hub that sits in the back of the wheel. Keep up the good work.
From what i heard you shouldnt apply grease directly on the face of the hub, only the lip (dont know the proper word) Since if you grease the hub-face the point of torque impact is just the bolts. Wheras if you dont grease the face its friction takes most the torque. Hard breaking can damage the wheel bolts i think.
When you loosening your wheel nuts always press down and don’t pull up as you could put your back out. You can put more pressure pushing down with your body weight and don’t use extension as you could slip of the wheel nuts. Also best using a impact socket as it has six sides to it for better grip than a standard socket which usually has a splined finish to them inside.🤗🤗🤗🤗
Inboard shoes is the name for that rear brake setup. didnt realise 1 series had them. p.s. you put it in gear to stop it rolling once you lifted it... but its rwd.
I'd also check the front wheels aren't that hard to get off sooner rather than later. 2 to 7 clicks is not.bad but for mot it must have some reserve travel.
Nice new intro. I do like watching your repair vids.
James, for those tight spaces perhaps you could use your microscope camera. It won't be great quality but as it has LED on the head of the camera, we'll still be able to see.
Putting a rear wheel drive car in gear then jacking the rear up is pointless matey 😂
Still helps with removing the tyre
Taking the tyre off lol
It stops the wheel spinning so easily when there is no handbrake?
Nice video James I say your right about the rear brake looking ready for some new pads and disc's
ha ha my 1966 beetle handbrakes adjusted like that......also my 2000 vectra had the same rear brake and handbrake set up however it adjusted at the lever
When i do my handbrake adjustment i remove the caliper then remove disc, normally they are full of brake dust ? Blow it out then use say 180 grit paper and scuff linings , lubricate link on handbrake mechanism , on fords they give a measurement of brake shoe diameter before refitting disc, also make sure you clean corrosion from alloy wheel centre part before refitting wheel, clean metal surface inside of disc with brake cleaner, i think you overdid it with copperslip ?i was told that at speed it can spin off on to brake components, great content btw ,,🚗🚗
If you change pads and discs use pagid pads and discs best one in euro parts
A torch, a medieval term for a modern day flash light. You have the coolest mom, she gets you tools for Christmas instead of socks.
You need new shoes on the passenger side if you can't lock it off. But if you change the discs then that's effectively new drums. But I'd do the shoes too.
You need to compress the spring in under the handbrake and lock it in place before you adjust
nice info, how do you know this?
Jason Juggler hi- owning BMW’s and self repair as they ain’t cheap to keep
great video just bought one of these and the handbrake is awful so thanks hopefully I will be able to tackle this my self
All hand breaks should be adjusted from the wheels, most have self adjusting mechanisms. The cable adjustment just sets the cable tension not the pad to drum clearance.
This question is for anyone to answer. But I wondered if when judging the point that the wheels can move freely and with how much force, would doing on with wheel on, and other just spinning hub make it harder/less accurate to judge, because I can imagine the larger diameter of spinning from the tyre gives more leverage (It’s really hard to find correct words, especially when I’m no mechanic)? That said, think MOT is probably the only conclusive way of knowing.
That's why I always leave it in gear as well as applying the handbrake
Johnner Griffin same here and if really steep then angle wheels in towards pavement just to be safe.
@@Mark... 👍
You know its not very safe but if i have to get a wheel off thats seized i position myself on the ground in such a way the car can't fall on me but behind the wheel in question and kick it, spin it and then kick it again. Normally that pops them off within a few strikes. Always quick with my foot so it can't be trapped under the car if it were to fall off the jack stands. The wheels love to seize on my Toyota.
Worst one i ever did was a Ford Transit with a dual wheel rear axle. The outer one i managed to beat off but the inner one was seized. So we put the wheel nuts back on a tiny bit slack and tore around the car park in it until we hear "dud, dud, dud, dud, dud".
"too many ugga duggas i reckon" 🤣
You can never do to many Ugga duggas
Another banging video mate! Keep 'em up
Loving the new intro! Useful vid. Handbrake on mine seems similar so a job for a weekend
Don't worry too much about the gearbox if you leave it in gear when parked. It will only load up the gearbox if the vehicle actually moves, in which case it probably just saved you from an expensive repair bill or two. The only problem is if it is started by someone who has a habit of just assuming a vehicle is in neutral and tries to turn it over. Obviously it is a always good idea to check the gearbox is in neutral before starting anyway, just as a habit, but not everyone is that smart.
Bmw won’t start without pressing clutch anyway but good point
This is a fussy job. One of those that's best to do if you're also removing/replacing the rotor. You can get a good look at the cog-and-bolt adjustment mechanism, which will help you visualize what you're doing after you put the rotor back on and start tightening. And yeah, everything is reversed between the two sides!
Great video 👍 thanks for sharing.
You look like you have the savage sparkle back 😎😎😎
Ah, good old deferred maintenance.
I feel your pain 😂
So I jacked up the rear of my 1 series, took one lug nut out (the other 4 I literally couldn't break with the breaker bar I've got, gonna get a longer one). Spun the wheel to this position and could only see the spring inside, I couldn't find the cog at all - even feeling around for it using a screwdriver. Any ideas?
Great vid. Don’t you have to release the spring under the handbrake first tho??
very good video. ive bought a draper storm force mega kit impact gun .drill .angle grinder all 20v had good deal very pleased
Best way to get stuck wheels off the hubs is too Loosen wheel nuts and then drive vehicle back and forwards about 6 inches rejack up wheels will come off
I've done this on a X5 and a 320i, check the teeth on the handbrake lever ratchet as they're bad for blunting the teeth and the handbrake will release on it's own, happened to two of my BMW's but the 2005 X5 was the worst one for it but hopefully the ones after that were sorted out.
Had this on my Z4 2004 and it would randomly drop. Gave up trying to replace as had to remove exhaust and drive shaft and let garage do.700 quid for MOT.
@savage garage Hi James hope you had a good Christmas and your having a good new year so far glad to see you back missed your videos looking forward to see more of the same as last year nice one James good as always 👍
My back wheels often seize onto the drum brakes on my Corolla. Just lay near the back of the car and kick fuck out of the wheel from the inside, it soon comes loose ;)
Never rely on your parking hand brake when parking on a hill...always leave your car in 1st gear, and turn steering wheels towards the kerb..This applies whether you are facing uphill or downhill..😎
Should really push down on a breaker bar instead of pulling up. One, you can use your body weight to free off nut/bolt easier. Two, you have the potential to knock/lift the car off a stand/jack pulling up like that 👍🏻
You didn't release the spring adjuster under the handbrake lever first.
Have you checked the Drum Shoes as well, they might be low on material?
Good old Fuchs grease. We deliver locally for free if u need any engine / gearbox oil.
I’ve got an exhaust for 2009 BMW one series if you need it let me know
When are you doing any more work on the bmw very interested I have an f30 3series and need to replace cracked headlight but you cannot replace with second hand part as software will not recognise it so I am told.Is this going to be an ongoing problem with bmw .Also do you needs ista d software rather than generic scanner.your opinion would be appreciated.
Good video James however, you can expect the m-police to call round over the gear lever knob...someone will have rang them 😂😂
Great video as always. Keep up the good work. 👍
the handbrake should always be adjusted at the wheels, adjusting it inside the trim is only adjusting the cable ,which can stretch the cables also covering the disks with wd40 not a good idea and spraying it in the stud holes will contaminate the hand brake shoes how do you know they have lining left without removing the disk to inspect the shoes your playing with brakes make sure you do it right your life and maybe mine are involved if you cannot stop because of contaminated rear pads
Perfect job and video!
Maybe for the next stuck rim. Keep one nut in verry lose, so when you bang it wont fall on the ground. :-)
Love the content!
i have the same set up on my 2012 MG6 and i will need to adjust mine before the MOT .so Great video
So you’re the person that bought one of those 😂😂😂😂
@@____stu____ it's not a bad car plus its not your run of the mill everyone else has one!
If you leave the other wheel on and spin it, it will be easier, so you won't get the feel, so you will adjust it more than the other side, and it would send off the balance between the two wheels? Handbrake wont be even
Never use copper slip as it affects the torque of the wheel nuts.
All BMW’s with a manual handbrake always roll forwards about an inch or so. Nothing to panic about with regards to that.
that tire was dryrotting aswell. but dont you guys use winter tires this time of the year in the uk?
@@AndyK.1 make it law: if it is frost or snow and you dont have tires for it, 75eur ticket every tire that's the wrong type for snow and ice on the car. That's how we do it and everyone drives with winters
the frame which shows the yum cars logo is a little bit blurry, could you use a higher quality one?
Those tyres have good wear wish mine looked like that instead on one being baldy on the inside and the other baldy on outside lol
When wheel won't come off, try putting a brick or wooden block under the inner half of the tyre, then lower the jack until the wheel pops off. Simples.
putting it in gear wont do anything when jacking, its rwd, also, bmw wheel nuts always seems to get tight, happens everytime I bring one into the workshop
I have a sloping driveway is it bad to have handbrake on and leave in first gear if pointing uphill? Don't want to damage gearbox
Good to see you back on the ratchets savage & that's why I always leave my car in gear.
Easy way to get the wheel off. Get your leg in behind it and kick the tyre with your heel. Works every time for me. May take a couple of kicks but easy peasy. 😉😉