@@85Noerdz Man I did the same thing.I changed that little battery in trunk.A month or so later.. the dam check engine light came on a again.So get it checked out.And that P305F code pops up again.After I had just bought that little battery brand new.....
@@85Noerdz it’s your crank sensor buy the starter which tells the starter to start when you take your foot off the gas when it gose bad you have a kind of jerkyness when driving and a rattling noise upon cold starts only i knew it wasn’t my batteries and keep in mind it won’t throw a code ask me how I know a lot of money to find out that!
Have a 2016 Impala. Same code and issue. Replaced the dual battery control module after seeing this video. Code gone and no more issues. Thanks for putting out this video
Firing the old parts cannon..eh! Just kidding, that was a very in depth diagnosis and one that 99% of other shops wouldn't have done. This is my favorite channel next to South Main Auto.
This is a well constructed step by step analysis of a single code. Unlike other videos on TH-cam basically saying I found this. This gives logic and diagnosis to an identified problem vs I have problem I found this and just do this it works... 🙄 Granted some issues all you need is an idea of where a broken wire is or damaged/faulty device is located. This video gives an explanation as to what the problem is including customer concerns, technical diagnosis and viable steps to determine if it is the fault or if there is another issue.
Thank you for this video. In my case the trunk negative cable was lose. I had the car in for service then suddenly the check engine light was on throwing this code. The dealership told they would need to schedule a visit to diagnose the problem. And average cost for this problem was around $200. I fixed this in three minutes took longer to watch the video. Thank you so much
I’d like to have a chat with the GM engineer who’s decided to place the CEL right where the tachometer needle stays at idle out of all places. Great video,lots of good info! 👍
They put it there in hopes one doesn't notice and keeps driving to make things worse and spend more money on parts. Obviously I'm being a smartass but.....
Soy cubano no se el inglés pero te puedo decir q el mejor q he visto de este carro, aprende y enseña más, aquí voy a estar pendiente a esos videos muy buenos, tengo ese problema, salud y suerte
You are a Diagnostic Master! There's got to be something in that Dual Battery Module that is not functioning as designed. THAT would be great to diagnose and repair for the future, unless GM wants it as a core charge.
Thank you for going through all the troubleshooting. I'm a mechanic too and made quite a few videos to help people out. Keep up the good work. Thanks again.
Just to clarify, I think the Auto-start was the re-start after the engine shuts down at the lights, not the remote start. Similar to the Skyactive/Bluemotion of the Mazda and Volkswagen etc.
Have the same symptoms in the a Malibu in my shop today. Load tested all power feeds and voltage dropped all ground and powers came to same conclusion of battery module but told service manager was unsure if this will fix as there is a lack of info on the module. This video supported my findings a little bit. Great work.
Wow, great video. I have this dual battery control module 2015 malibu and the plug on the bottom left was loose and not fully snapped in. P305f error code plus once in a while car wouldn't start without a jump. Both batteries tested good so your video helped me find a solution, I hope.
I really appreciate your effort to upload videos like this to this channel. You really did a good job guy! Waiting for the part 2 to learn how to test the Battery Module incase or futures purpose.
Great video and great work. I also make my own flow charts but I do absorb information from other techs as we all should from each other when brainstorming. I was very shocked that replacing that unit resolved the issue. It may not be the case always for everyone. I hope others watching don't jump to the conclusion but at least check as you did. Thank you so much for this video!!!
Nice video man. U wanna separate those batteries main and aux battery when testing those u can get false readings cause those batteries are connected. Keep up the vids man!!
I'm getting a P058D code on my 2014 Malibu and just ordered a new DBCM. Hoping it fixes the issue. I took it into a mechanic and he put a new battery in and charged me $500 and obviously didn't fix the issue. Going to try and install the new part myself once it comes in. Thanks for the video, nice to see a Houstonion on here.
This is just how manufacturers are making our jobs harder, I bet that alot of these down the road have this issue. Ones without the stop start feature probably won't have this issue.
One thing they don't tell you is make sure you have the right primary battery. If u have auto start stop feature yours primary battery should be 1000 cca and not 650cca
I can see already that the main battery underneath the hood was replaced with the wrong battery size and type. That battery is supposed to be a 49 "AGM" battery. You can see the hold down block on the side is not even touching the battery. Battery in that vehicle is H5/47 flooded lead acid battery, which is way too small and wrong type. Looks like it was installed at walmart from the label which explains a lot.
@Truth Defender You obviously don't know much about things automotive. A Toyota or Honda can go 20 years and 300K without ever needing modules replaced
My car is literally at chevy right now for this exact issue. Come to find out its covered under the emission warranty for 15 years or 150000 miles. More people need to know. It seems like the most common issue for 2014-2017 model Malibu
@@alexsolis5685 you know not necessarily a rough idle, but when I was dring it it would kinda kick back a little if that is the right word like aging 55 and all of a sudden you would feel like a hesitation. The car never died but so far since I got it back from Chevy yesterday the issue "seems" to be gone
@@samanthaclemens5693 Is there any more info you could offer about this? Bought new and dealing with this issue currently, at 70k on my '15 ls. Like what exactly they did, and just covered under "emission warranty"?
@@mwartist I bought brand new too. This was the last warranty I had. It covers the whole auto stop system. And my rental car. The battery had went bad, the one on the trunk. It's around $200 for the battery. So my check engine light was on. When the pulled the code and it came with that issue I wasn't responsible for any of it. But if it didn't pull that code then I would have had to pay for that diagnostic also
I checked both batteries and they both checked out good under a full load meter. I thought I might try to replace the module, but then when I went to leave at night, the main battery was too low to start the car. I jumped started the car, and then drove it for a bit, and then shut it off and the battery was dead again. I replaced both batteries, the main and the aux battery, and erased the check engine light, and then drove it through six western States, and it ran perfectly including the auto shut-off when stopped in gear. The main battery checked bad at Walmart, and it was only two years old of a five year battery warranty so they gave me a new one. Just to be safe, I replaced the aux battery as well, and now everything runs fine and in more than a week, the check engine light remains off where it would come on in less than ten miles before. Just thought this might help before replacing the $200 plus module. I checked all the wires as well, and found no bad ones where suggested. It was the batteries.
2nd time with same code after dealer repaired first time. Under driver's carpet, there is a ground post where 2 wires junction. With firewall leak onto carpet, this junction is corroded. Just replaced connector to one of the lines and my battery voltage just returned to over 14v. Does this junction go to the module?
You explained it very well ! Great job !!👍🏼 ….. but i have a question when you was testing the auxiliary battery shouldn’t you have unhooked one of the batteries cable to get a accurate reading ? Like you would testing batteries in a Diesel truck ?
Yo. Would you mind if I reference you in a coming up video that's either mine or my brother's? Most likely his. I haven't posted in probably 6 years. Anyway, I have 2 of these cars with this issue and the first one im tacking has 2 new batteries . Probably needs that dual battery fuse box. I wanna run ur tests from the 2nd video and see what we see. Plus a couple more. Just like you , I'm a shop owner and would love to be able to share what I see but never any time. Respect u just for that. Honestly, I saw the bulletin and side stepped this car for 2 weeks now. Late at night with a beer, u did alot of work for me. Probably saved me that 1.5 hours or more of endless flow charts and diagrams just to figure out the system and test the way I and you wanna test. Either way great job and thanks
Sigo viendo tus videos ojalá sigas así y ya te sigo traduzco tus palabras pero eres bueno en lo tuyo y quiero eso nadie más q tu sabe hablar de este carro y no puede ser ya vi 3 mecánicos y aquí en west Palm beach Florida fueras millonario
I’d like to see you do a video on throttle body? What causes it to fail! Is it carbon build up that promos computer to constantly adjust and burn up or is it just faulty.
I thought the aux. battery ground strap was loose or metal base deflected when you were tugging it at about 10.05. Hard to tell on small tablet . Thanks for making good content and sharing
Hello! Nice video btw I have the same code right now but my question is what if after both batteries being checked they came out as good , what could the problem be then?? Thanks I hope to get an answer
I have had the engine light cut on temporarily but it does not stay on long. I’ve had issues with the car cutting off for a second at red lights, then it cuts back on right away. Then in other instances, once the engine cuts off, it will shut my car completely off and sometimes won’t even allow me to start it until time passes. I have a 2018 malibu LT. Other times, I go outside to start my car and it won’t start at all but the car will turn on, my engine just won’t start. So idk
So at 20:58 when you were taking those parts out, is it possible you could explain how you detached the thing to the left of the battery tray and how you got the tray itself out? It was fast-forwarded and I couldn't tell what you were doing even with the vid slowed down. I can't find anything online showing how to take that thing out and I've disconnected everything I see and it's still stuck in there. This video is the only one I can find where it's removed.
Hello I have the same problem if bought whole nother battery would that solve the problem or do you have to purchase the module as well please could I get a response desperately needing help
I just replaced asm fuse box and the light did go off. However, my remote start still won't work. Did I do something wrong? Should I have disconnected the aux battery prior to replacing the fuse box.
In my assessment of things, the integrity of the the battery control module is what the ECM is assessing based on the description. The TSB says nominal resistance of the 175A fuse is about 0.5ohms if under load the resistance increases - it indicates this component has failed. 2. Check ground resistance of Dual Battery Isolation Module (DBIM) to G103. Wiggle the harness and negative battery terminal connections during the test to look for varied resistance values. • If resistance is greater than 0.5 ohms or changes more than 1 ohm: 2.1. Inspect ground connections and/or splice in the harness about 1.5 ft. from the connector end. 2.2. Fix poor connection and replace the module. Do a voltage drop with an oscilloscope or alternatively a scope amp clamp If a drop >3Volts occurs then the 175amp fuse has been stressed and cannot recover correctly causing a condition the computer captures. The built in current clamp also establishes an imbalance of the overall picture of the amperage draw.
so i have a 2013 with the auto stop feature that was supposdly removed? is it possible the auxiliary battery is still in the trunk and never replaced hence forth why the car randomly dies after 40 50 minutes of driving?
CORROSION at the ECM terminal connectors are not far-fetched on GM products. One common example is the Chevy Cruze eating up the all-in-one ignition coil packs.
I am dealing with this Code. my altinater was only cranking out 12.5 volts. I had it rebuilt. Also after id release the break peddle and the center council would turn off and turn back on and fire the check engine code.. I also found a ground wire, that was exposed and had corrosion on it.. So I was only getting the CE light after the Eco boost would kick in. After fixing the altinater and the wire, the CE light went off on its own, but came on again on its own with no Eco boost.same code. Does the car need to go through a few cycles?
My car is doing the same thing ny auto start isn’t working and my radio turns off whje the auto stop is activated then when the engine come back on my radio turn off so that means i need another auxiliary battery ?
She replaced the battery? Maybe the car was jump started when the battery died. Scotty K had a video talking about jump starting new cars and how it can screw them up. Also, at 20:30 looks like a broken wire.
Those vehicles use a much larger group size AGM battery on start stop engines. That's what all that extra space is for. That smaller battery is for the non start stop2.0L
AC Delco batteries sure do seem top notch. Im very surprised that the primary battery had failed in your cases study car. My 07 Cobalt with 218k miles has its original battery. Iv had a couple at my shop that are 10 plus years old that are original batteries. Only the AC Delco ones though.
Depends on battery location and the climate where the car is operated in. I am in Florida and your lucky to get 2 or 3 years out of an underhood battery due to the heat! A trunk mounted battery has a much easier life, as does a battery in a colder climate!
@@lustfulvengance Yeah you for sure have a valid point about trunk mount and underhood. Although the last AC delco battery I changed was an underhood battery. 2008 Suzuki XL7 80k miles and it still started car but dropped voltage far enough to set a few ABS codes. Prior shop had recommended changing ABS module. I cannot speak for where it lived prior but im in the north west. PA to be exact. Personally we see more battery failures this time of the year when it gets cold.
@@justinhayward5027 An economy car like a Cobalt does not have alot of electrical loads or modules that stress a battery in any way! Also the Cobalts battery has a very luxurious life in a nice cool environment away from engine vibration and heat (its in the trunk by the spare tire) 😁
My2019 malibu turns of at reds lights and won't restart for a while. Could this be the the problem? Any advise would help.i have been putting the car in neutral when i stop so the engine doe not turn off but i still don't now if this is going to be a temporary solution.
JLUMINADO I just got a 2014 Malibu and I didn’t realize it had this feature. I don’t want or need this feature. I didn’t really want a Chevy but it was a last option.Now I have to have 2000 dollars set aside for repairs (because it will happen lol,it’s a Chevy)The engine also sounds like a dust buster with bronchitis. A guy that was reviewing it even said lol. I’m trading it ASAP
Does the control module have to be synced to the car according to the VIN number because that's what it says are you can just order the part cuz I'm having the same problem my car is dead in the water it cranked it died on me at a red light and then start back up that cranks for a whole week and now it's dead in the driveway the key won't even work to lock and unlock the car and I'm going to order me a new key
Actually there's a loose connection with control module. There's a little red wire that bolts down. If not service engine light will come on . Help this helps you it helped me
I had the very same thing happened and code. All fuses and wires connections were good. But I had low main battery charge so I replace both batteries and BOOM the engine light went off and problem solved. Simple as that.
My alternator is not putting charge to the battery I replace the battery and alternator and still nothing check the fuses everything seems to be good what else could it be
I have to jump my car every time to start. I replaced the main battery and the battery module and still no change. I checked all fuses and loose connections. My meter on my dash shows between 14 to 13.8. when I turn the car off the meter on my dash shows between 11.7 to 12. Which causes me to jump it. I've tested the alternator and it's good... I'm at my whits end. I need help!!!
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In part 2, we will cover how the module works and how we can test it. Thank you for watching!
I changed this unit out brand new and still having the same problem.... what next please help!!
@@85Noerdz Man I did the same thing.I changed that little battery in trunk.A month or so later.. the dam check engine light came on a again.So get it checked out.And that P305F code pops up again.After I had just bought that little battery brand new.....
Show me images of a dodge charger how to removed heads
Is part 2 out ?
@@85Noerdz it’s your crank sensor buy the starter which tells the starter to start when you take your foot off the gas when it gose bad you have a kind of jerkyness when driving and a rattling noise upon cold starts only i knew it wasn’t my batteries and keep in mind it won’t throw a code ask me how I know a lot of money to find out that!
Module check starts at 32:00.
Great information and video.
Have a 2016 Impala. Same code and issue. Replaced the dual battery control module after seeing this video. Code gone and no more issues. Thanks for putting out this video
Where did you get the party for your 2016 Chevy Impala
Hey I’m having the same problem, where did u get the part?!
So much effort you are really trying to explain. There are only few channels with that much work for learning. This one is on top
Firing the old parts cannon..eh! Just kidding, that was a very in depth diagnosis and one that 99% of other shops wouldn't have done. This is my favorite channel next to South Main Auto.
Sometimes we gotta dust off the old parts cannon lol
This is a well constructed step by step analysis of a single code. Unlike other videos on TH-cam basically saying I found this. This gives logic and diagnosis to an identified problem vs I have problem I found this and just do this it works... 🙄 Granted some issues all you need is an idea of where a broken wire is or damaged/faulty device is located. This video gives an explanation as to what the problem is including customer concerns, technical diagnosis and viable steps to determine if it is the fault or if there is another issue.
You should do a case study on the start/stop failure with no check engine codes that seems to be plaguing a lot of gen8’s, including my ‘14 LS.
cant wait for part II !!! dont care if this was a long video its always good to see the hold process...
I’m working on it now. Thanks for watching!
I skipped many times but your energy and the effort u put in the video made it great. Good job bro.
Thanks for taking the time to help us understand this system under a huge workload!!
Thank you for this video. In my case the trunk negative cable was lose. I had the car in for service then suddenly the check engine light was on throwing this code. The dealership told they would need to schedule a visit to diagnose the problem. And average cost for this problem was around $200. I fixed this in three minutes took longer to watch the video.
Thank you so much
Hello, I am having this same issue and I wanted to know what did you do to resolve the issue? Thank You
I’d like to have a chat with the GM engineer who’s decided to place the CEL right where the tachometer needle stays at idle out of all places.
Great video,lots of good info! 👍
They put it there in hopes one doesn't notice and keeps driving to make things worse and spend more money on parts.
Obviously I'm being a smartass but.....
Yeah, have a chat with them about how drugs are bad, mm'kay?
Soy cubano no se el inglés pero te puedo decir q el mejor q he visto de este carro, aprende y enseña más, aquí voy a estar pendiente a esos videos muy buenos, tengo ese problema, salud y suerte
Your "block of instructions" are stellar!
Is nice to see a video in such depth, and you surely make it understandable! Thank You.
You are a Diagnostic Master!
There's got to be something in that Dual Battery Module that is not functioning as designed. THAT would be great to diagnose and repair for the future, unless GM wants it as a core charge.
Thank you for going through all the troubleshooting. I'm a mechanic too and made quite a few videos to help people out. Keep up the good work. Thanks again.
I just bought a 2011 Chevy Malibu and my check engine is on. Im gonna have to get this checked. It runs great! And yes I have a six mounth warrenty!
Just to clarify, I think the Auto-start was the re-start after the engine shuts down at the lights, not the remote start. Similar to the Skyactive/Bluemotion of the Mazda and Volkswagen etc.
I'm proud of you brother even though this video is a year old multitasking entrepreneur go-getter that's what you are brother
Have the same symptoms in the a Malibu in my shop today. Load tested all power feeds and voltage dropped all ground and powers came to same conclusion of battery module but told service manager was unsure if this will fix as there is a lack of info on the module. This video supported my findings a little bit. Great work.
Wow, great video. I have this dual battery control module 2015 malibu and the plug on the bottom left was loose and not fully snapped in. P305f error code plus once in a while car wouldn't start without a jump. Both batteries tested good so your video helped me find a solution, I hope.
I really appreciate your effort to upload videos like this to this channel. You really did a good job guy! Waiting for the part 2 to learn how to test the Battery Module incase or futures purpose.
0
Great video and great work. I also make my own flow charts but I do absorb information from other techs as we all should from each other when brainstorming. I was very shocked that replacing that unit resolved the issue. It may not be the case always for everyone. I hope others watching don't jump to the conclusion but at least check as you did. Thank you so much for this video!!!
Nice video man. U wanna separate those batteries main and aux battery when testing those u can get false readings cause those batteries are connected. Keep up the vids man!!
I just posted a comment about disconnecting one of the battery cables while testing the batteries lol 👍🏼
Very nice video bro you deserve a trophy!🍾🏆
I'm getting a P058D code on my 2014 Malibu and just ordered a new DBCM. Hoping it fixes the issue. I took it into a mechanic and he put a new battery in and charged me $500 and obviously didn't fix the issue.
Going to try and install the new part myself once it comes in. Thanks for the video, nice to see a Houstonion on here.
I have the same code on my 2015 Malibu. Did changing the DBCM work for you?
@TheLocaChica05 it did, no issues since. Easy install.
@@OscarHTX thanks sooo much!
This is just how manufacturers are making our jobs harder, I bet that alot of these down the road have this issue. Ones without the stop start feature probably won't have this issue.
Stop start feature is one of the MANY reasons I got rid of my 2016. Absolutely refuse to buy GM manufactured after 2005 again.
One thing they don't tell you is make sure you have the right primary battery. If u have auto start stop feature yours primary battery should be 1000 cca and not 650cca
is that for the 2013 chevy malibu eco 2.4L ?
Best teacher ever good job men...
Good for you!dealership would have just said they can’t recreate the problem and tell you to trade it
Good job tks again for taking the time to show us
I can see already that the main battery underneath the hood was replaced with the wrong battery size and type. That battery is supposed to be a 49 "AGM" battery. You can see the hold down block on the side is not even touching the battery. Battery in that vehicle is H5/47 flooded lead acid battery, which is way too small and wrong type. Looks like it was installed at walmart from the label which explains a lot.
Good ol' GM, failed modules after only 5 years
I had to replace a chassis module on a 2017 Freightliner tractor. Two years old and only 35,000 miles on the odometer. I couldn't believe it.
@Truth Defender You obviously don't know much about things automotive. A Toyota or Honda can go 20 years and 300K without ever needing modules replaced
@@justsumguy2u you are correct!
I have a 99 Tahoe, all modules and computers have never failed.
should you have disconnected the main battery before testing the trunk battery?
Thank you and it’s very informative ❤
Excellent tutorial. Good job 👏
Amazing work and thank you for your time
Such a great attitude! Thank you!👑
My car is literally at chevy right now for this exact issue. Come to find out its covered under the emission warranty for 15 years or 150000 miles. More people need to know. It seems like the most common issue for 2014-2017 model Malibu
Where you having any issues with a rough idle along with the auto stop problems?
@@alexsolis5685 you know not necessarily a rough idle, but when I was dring it it would kinda kick back a little if that is the right word like aging 55 and all of a sudden you would feel like a hesitation. The car never died but so far since I got it back from Chevy yesterday the issue "seems" to be gone
@@samanthaclemens5693 Is there any more info you could offer about this? Bought new and dealing with this issue currently, at 70k on my '15 ls. Like what exactly they did, and just covered under "emission warranty"?
@@mwartist it's in your warranty booklet
@@mwartist I bought brand new too. This was the last warranty I had. It covers the whole auto stop system. And my rental car. The battery had went bad, the one on the trunk. It's around $200 for the battery. So my check engine light was on. When the pulled the code and it came with that issue I wasn't responsible for any of it. But if it didn't pull that code then I would have had to pay for that diagnostic also
I checked both batteries and they both checked out good under a full load meter. I thought I might try to replace the module, but then when I went to leave at night, the main battery was too low to start the car. I jumped started the car, and then drove it for a bit, and then shut it off and the battery was dead again. I replaced both batteries, the main and the aux battery, and erased the check engine light, and then drove it through six western States, and it ran perfectly including the auto shut-off when stopped in gear. The main battery checked bad at Walmart, and it was only two years old of a five year battery warranty so they gave me a new one. Just to be safe, I replaced the aux battery as well, and now everything runs fine and in more than a week, the check engine light remains off where it would come on in less than ten miles before. Just thought this might help before replacing the $200 plus module. I checked all the wires as well, and found no bad ones where suggested. It was the batteries.
2nd time with same code after dealer repaired first time. Under driver's carpet, there is a ground post where 2 wires junction. With firewall leak onto carpet, this junction is corroded. Just replaced connector to one of the lines and my battery voltage just returned to over 14v. Does this junction go to the module?
You explained it very well ! Great job !!👍🏼 ….. but i have a question when you was testing the auxiliary battery shouldn’t you have unhooked one of the batteries cable to get a accurate reading ? Like you would testing batteries in a Diesel truck ?
I usually never comment but it is sad this vid has 70k views. Starting my P305F error journey. Wish me luck.
Good job nice work!
Your were juggling two terms: DBCM and DBIM (dual battery control module & dual battery isolation module).
Yo. Would you mind if I reference you in a coming up video that's either mine or my brother's? Most likely his. I haven't posted in probably 6 years. Anyway, I have 2 of these cars with this issue and the first one im tacking has 2 new batteries . Probably needs that dual battery fuse box. I wanna run ur tests from the 2nd video and see what we see. Plus a couple more. Just like you , I'm a shop owner and would love to be able to share what I see but never any time. Respect u just for that. Honestly, I saw the bulletin and side stepped this car for 2 weeks now. Late at night with a beer, u did alot of work for me. Probably saved me that 1.5 hours or more of endless flow charts and diagrams just to figure out the system and test the way I and you wanna test. Either way great job and thanks
Sigo viendo tus videos ojalá sigas así y ya te sigo traduzco tus palabras pero eres bueno en lo tuyo y quiero eso nadie más q tu sabe hablar de este carro y no puede ser ya vi 3 mecánicos y aquí en west Palm beach Florida fueras millonario
I’d like to see you do a video on throttle body? What causes it to fail! Is it carbon build up that promos computer to constantly adjust and burn up or is it just faulty.
I thought the aux. battery ground strap was loose or metal base deflected when you were tugging it at about 10.05. Hard to tell on small tablet . Thanks for making good content and sharing
The body just deflected when I pulled on it. The ground was secure. Thanks for watching!
Hello! Nice video btw I have the same code right now but my question is what if after both batteries being checked they came out as good , what could the problem be then?? Thanks I hope to get an answer
I have had the engine light cut on temporarily but it does not stay on long. I’ve had issues with the car cutting off for a second at red lights, then it cuts back on right away. Then in other instances, once the engine cuts off, it will shut my car completely off and sometimes won’t even allow me to start it until time passes. I have a 2018 malibu LT. Other times, I go outside to start my car and it won’t start at all but the car will turn on, my engine just won’t start. So idk
Do you have a part number for the dual battery control module
So at 20:58 when you were taking those parts out, is it possible you could explain how you detached the thing to the left of the battery tray and how you got the tray itself out? It was fast-forwarded and I couldn't tell what you were doing even with the vid slowed down. I can't find anything online showing how to take that thing out and I've disconnected everything I see and it's still stuck in there. This video is the only one I can find where it's removed.
Where did you get the battery control module part ?
Is that a 4 awg positive wire that connects rear battery to the front?
hey sir does this have to be program to the car ?
Hello I have the same problem if bought whole nother battery would that solve the problem or do you have to purchase the module as well please could I get a response desperately needing help
Thanks for sharing a hard one!!
Thanks for watching!
Will that module drain the auxiliary battery if it's not working right?
What is the name of that second load tester? The one with the heating element?
I can’t seem to find out where to order one from and I am in Orlando Florida. Any suggestions?
I just replaced asm fuse box and the light did go off. However, my remote start still won't work. Did I do something wrong? Should I have disconnected the aux battery prior to replacing the fuse box.
In my assessment of things, the integrity of the the battery control module is what the ECM is assessing based on the description. The TSB says nominal resistance of the 175A fuse is about 0.5ohms if under load the resistance increases - it indicates this component has failed.
2. Check ground resistance of Dual Battery Isolation
Module (DBIM) to G103. Wiggle the harness and
negative battery terminal connections during the
test to look for varied resistance values.
• If resistance is greater than 0.5 ohms or
changes more than 1 ohm:
2.1. Inspect ground connections and/or
splice in the harness about 1.5 ft. from
the connector end.
2.2. Fix poor connection and replace the
module.
Do a voltage drop with an oscilloscope or alternatively a scope amp clamp
If a drop >3Volts occurs then the 175amp fuse has been stressed and cannot recover correctly causing a condition the computer captures. The built in current clamp also establishes an imbalance of the overall picture of the amperage draw.
so i have a 2013 with the auto stop feature that was supposdly removed? is it possible the auxiliary battery is still in the trunk and never replaced hence forth why the car randomly dies after 40 50 minutes of driving?
So what battery cranks and starts the car on an initial first start up the auxiliary if I’m understanding correctly? But I don’t think I am…
CORROSION at the ECM terminal connectors are not far-fetched on GM products. One common example is the Chevy Cruze eating up the all-in-one ignition coil packs.
Wouldn't you need to unhook the main battery to check the one in the trunk?
Thanks for great video. Did this part have to be programmed? Thank you!
great video thank you for a good work
Question, I have this code on my 2015 Malibu, But also my main battery shows bad on battery test, Could this also cause this code ?
great teaching experience. Thanks
Thank you
Yes, a great teaching experience on why not to buy GM built after 2000.
I am dealing with this Code. my altinater was only cranking out 12.5 volts. I had it rebuilt. Also after id release the break peddle and the center council would turn off and turn back on and fire the check engine code.. I also found a ground wire, that was exposed and had corrosion on it.. So I was only getting the CE light after the Eco boost would kick in. After fixing the altinater and the wire, the CE light went off on its own, but came on again on its own with no Eco boost.same code. Does the car need to go through a few cycles?
My car is doing the same thing ny auto start isn’t working and my radio turns off whje the auto stop is activated then when the engine come back on my radio turn off so that means i need another auxiliary battery ?
Where did you get the part from bro?
Does the accessory system control turn signals through one of the IPFuses?
Did you figure it out?
Good job mate 👌😁
🇮🇶Thank you very much professor of sincere greeting to you
Thank you for watching
She replaced the battery? Maybe the car was jump started when the battery died. Scotty K had a video talking about jump starting new cars and how it can screw them up. Also, at 20:30 looks like a broken wire.
Those vehicles use a much larger group size AGM battery on start stop engines. That's what all that extra space is for. That smaller battery is for the non start stop2.0L
Thanks for your useful video
Thanks for watching
AC Delco batteries sure do seem top notch. Im very surprised that the primary battery had failed in your cases study car. My 07 Cobalt with 218k miles has its original battery. Iv had a couple at my shop that are 10 plus years old that are original batteries. Only the AC Delco ones though.
Depends on battery location and the climate where the car is operated in. I am in Florida and your lucky to get 2 or 3 years out of an underhood battery due to the heat! A trunk mounted battery has a much easier life, as does a battery in a colder climate!
The cobolt has a lot less modules and electronics on it than modern cars. A lot of stress on these newer car batteries.
@@lustfulvengance Yeah you for sure have a valid point about trunk mount and underhood. Although the last AC delco battery I changed was an underhood battery. 2008 Suzuki XL7 80k miles and it still started car but dropped voltage far enough to set a few ABS codes. Prior shop had recommended changing ABS module. I cannot speak for where it lived prior but im in the north west. PA to be exact. Personally we see more battery failures this time of the year when it gets cold.
@@justinhayward5027 In what way?
@@justinhayward5027 An economy car like a Cobalt does not have alot of electrical loads or modules that stress a battery in any way! Also the Cobalts battery has a very luxurious life in a nice cool environment away from engine vibration and heat (its in the trunk by the spare tire) 😁
Is this on all 2.5 Malibu LTs?
My2019 malibu turns of at reds lights and won't restart for a while. Could this be the the problem? Any advise would help.i have been putting the car in neutral when i stop so the engine doe not turn off but i still don't now if this is going to be a temporary solution.
Boy am I glad I don't have a start stop. thank you sweet baby cheeezuts🙌
JLUMINADO I just got a 2014 Malibu and I didn’t realize it had this feature. I don’t want or need this feature. I didn’t really want a Chevy but it was a last option.Now I have to have 2000 dollars set aside for repairs (because it will happen lol,it’s a Chevy)The engine also sounds like a dust buster with bronchitis. A guy that was reviewing it even said lol. I’m trading it ASAP
@@ericabertagnoli5469 Just be glad it's not a Ford or Dodge.
Nice job
Good job 👍 bro
Does the control module have to be synced to the car according to the VIN number because that's what it says are you can just order the part cuz I'm having the same problem my car is dead in the water it cranked it died on me at a red light and then start back up that cranks for a whole week and now it's dead in the driveway the key won't even work to lock and unlock the car and I'm going to order me a new key
Always being under a time crunch because you’re working alone really sucks. I hope you can find some decent help soon.
Actually there's a loose connection with control module. There's a little red wire that bolts down. If not service engine light will come on . Help this helps you it helped me
A small bolt that needs to be tightened
I had the very same thing happened and code. All fuses and wires connections were good. But I had low main battery charge so I replace both batteries and BOOM the engine light went off and problem solved. Simple as that.
My alternator is not putting charge to the battery I replace the battery and alternator and still nothing check the fuses everything seems to be good what else could it be
Where are you located I need to take my car to you ASAP it has the same thing going on
So does mine
me too
Me too, my Chevy dealer can’t fix it 😔
Auto start is auto stop start. If any gm car has a check engine light the remote start function will not work.
Type b fails twice before code sets and mil is requested. Type a is immediate. Type a are usually emissions high like misfires
I have to jump my car every time to start. I replaced the main battery and the battery module and still no change. I checked all fuses and loose connections. My meter on my dash shows between 14 to 13.8. when I turn the car off the meter on my dash shows between 11.7 to 12. Which causes me to jump it. I've tested the alternator and it's good... I'm at my whits end. I need help!!!
Shouldn’t u have isolated the aux battery when testing?
Isn't your aux. battery test invalid because you haven't isolated it from the main battery?
Hello, please write me where I can find this schemes? Like in this video. Thank you
Sometimes you have to go with your gut feelings.