Glad you got it working. My advice: line up the burn in with the image. Then once you install the tinted plexi (order a new one too, worth it) you won't even see the burn in.
I was trying to do exactly that, but I couldn’t quite get the V-Center exactly where I wanted it. I might need to replace the jumpers with a pot mod. 🤔
Hey Charlie... Looks like your PCB may be on harder or "fast machine" check that the scratch pad near the dip switch is not scratched (disconnected) it is left unbroken from the factory
Yes, good catch! But I think you mean the pad should come *disconnected* from the factory (per the manual section highlighted here: lawnmowerman.rotheblog.com/#settings)? Shorting that jumper pad will increase the difficulty level. And indeed, my PCB does have a blob of solder added to connect both sides of that jumper pad. I'll be removing it before installation in the restored cabinet. Thanks!!
I did the same thing. I put mine back to the "Normal" version when I first got my game. 30 seconds after playing the painfully slow game, I put it back to the Turbo version. The best solution is to get the High Score Saves Multi Kit and then you can play all the variations plus regular Pac, Pengo, Etc...
You may want to put that horizontal position pit back to where it was, as it might line up the current picture with the burn again. Depends how fussy you want to be LOL
I messed with it a bunch and couldn’t quite get it lined up. Could be a combination of all the new parts (cap kit, flyback, width coil, etc.). I was thinking of installing the H. Cent & V. Cent Pot Modification Kit (www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/components/trimmer-potentiometers-pots/pot-kits/electrohome-g07-cbo-h-cent-v-cent-pot-modification-kit/) and replacing all the chassis pots (www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/components/trimmer-potentiometers-pots/pot-kits/electrohome-g07-main-pcb-trimmer-pot-kit/) to give me more control over making those last minor adjustments to align with the burn.
Not sure if you worked this out by now, but the coin switch is not "only working half the time". If you look at your older video, the coin door said "50¢ per game", so someone must have adjusted the dip switches 2 coins per credit?
I have the same sync problem with my ms pacman off to one side and cant adjust it out enough without it just scrolling. I dont have the 3 pin header just a 6 pin so not sure how to correct it. any ideas
@@overtimearcade yeah I've never been able to find out the model of my monitor i think its some Japanese model but no markings anywhere. the problem is the colour of the wires on mine is different i have red, yellow, black, 2 white and a green in my connector on my chassis.it works but like yours was its off to one side annoyingly. but i don't want to start looping wires together without knowing what they are in case i blow something lool
@@overtimearcade there's not its very strange. not that I'm that experienced in these things but is it normal to have a small separate PCB that the video wires from the jamma go in to. with 6 wires out of that into the main chassis PCB. and also another 4 wires going out to the monitor itself .there is also a pot on this small PCB to adjust the horizontal
Would anyone know what do i look for when an arcade machine table top gives a shock when u touch the on off switch or metal ??? Any tips from you guys ??
I'm pretty sure it is is there any tips too know if it is ?? I changed the end plug but not sure if I just change the whole cord ?? What would cause it too do that???
You’re pretty sure all the various grounding straps & grounding points inside of the cabinet are properly connected to earth ground? Have you checked this with your multimeter? Have you compare it against the grounding references in the manual/schematics? The fact that you’re getting shocked is a big indicator that something is not grounded properly.
It doesn't have a manual with it I got few years back. It's not a dedicated cab of ms pacman it's in a table top that looks like the old space invaders or polaris table top. One of those ugly ones it was working fine till I wanted too tighten a bolt on the tv frame and then it shocked since then how do I test for ground ? I'm starting From scratch. How do I test the power plug?
@thundercracker900 Ok, if this is some weird conversion, you’ll have to start with the fundamentals and can’t assume anything is correct. Does the power plug have a ground prong (3 prongs, not 2)? Is there an isolation transformer is the cabinet? Is the chassis frame grounded? Consult this diagram to see what kind of basic stuff needs to be connected to ground (but it doesn’t show other things that need to be wired to a grounding strap, like the control panel): www.therealbobroberts.net/basic-ac.gif
i adjust the pots on my machine to stretch the screen slightly it works great and looks better. the problem is when i come back the next day and turn it on its all out of sync again and shaking all over the place and i have to readjust them again . have you any idea why this would be i cant work it out 👍
@@overtimearcade yeah ill do some searching. just strange it's ok until it's left off overnight i can switch it off and back on and its set in the position i put if but if left off overnight its all over the place
@@overtimearcade yeah ill give it a go after its been off all night see what happens. just one more thing 🤣 i have 3 pins labelled M, S, L with just 1 of them connected any idea what they are and do its on the same board as the pots and the focus adjustment
got recommended to this channel. i like looking at preserving and restoring classic arcade cabs.
Welcome and thanks for watching! I’m working on the Pengo tonight!
That is awesome! Something charming about burn in. like the history of a million games played before that an never be erased.
Screen burn never really bothered me, especially if it matches the game. I consider it a form of patina!
Glad you got it working. My advice: line up the burn in with the image. Then once you install the tinted plexi (order a new one too, worth it) you won't even see the burn in.
I was trying to do exactly that, but I couldn’t quite get the V-Center exactly where I wanted it. I might need to replace the jumpers with a pot mod. 🤔
@@overtimearcade Peter from APAR carries the kit for the G07 pot mod. Pretty easy to do. I have them on all my G07s.
@@delsarcade I’ll probably go ahead and replace the chassis adjustment pots too, since the originals are so finicky.
Good videos. I really like them. Thanks
Thanks for watching -- and thanks for the kind words!
Hey Charlie... Looks like your PCB may be on harder or "fast machine" check that the scratch pad near the dip switch is not scratched (disconnected) it is left unbroken from the factory
Yes, good catch! But I think you mean the pad should come *disconnected* from the factory (per the manual section highlighted here: lawnmowerman.rotheblog.com/#settings)? Shorting that jumper pad will increase the difficulty level. And indeed, my PCB does have a blob of solder added to connect both sides of that jumper pad. I'll be removing it before installation in the restored cabinet. Thanks!!
@@overtimearcade I knew it was one way or the other :)
Thank you Charlie I always learn something from your channel.
Cool Cool.
Thanks again for watching, Carlos! Keep the comments & questions coming!
@@overtimearcade Sure Will.....Thanks
I did the same thing. I put mine back to the "Normal" version when I first got my game. 30 seconds after playing the painfully slow game, I put it back to the Turbo version. The best solution is to get the High Score Saves Multi Kit and then you can play all the variations plus regular Pac, Pengo, Etc...
I’d love to find a dedicated Pengo project cabinet to restore someday!
I love the leaky and shorting to ground original electrohome flyback burning through my hand as maggots decorate my vomit..
Great Scott! ⚡️😱⚡️
You may want to put that horizontal position pit back to where it was, as it might line up the current picture with the burn again.
Depends how fussy you want to be LOL
I messed with it a bunch and couldn’t quite get it lined up. Could be a combination of all the new parts (cap kit, flyback, width coil, etc.). I was thinking of installing the H. Cent & V. Cent Pot Modification Kit (www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/components/trimmer-potentiometers-pots/pot-kits/electrohome-g07-cbo-h-cent-v-cent-pot-modification-kit/) and replacing all the chassis pots (www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/components/trimmer-potentiometers-pots/pot-kits/electrohome-g07-main-pcb-trimmer-pot-kit/) to give me more control over making those last minor adjustments to align with the burn.
Not sure if you worked this out by now, but the coin switch is not "only working half the time". If you look at your older video, the coin door said "50¢ per game", so someone must have adjusted the dip switches 2 coins per credit?
Good call!
I think that the speed hack made it easier. The ghosts still move at normal speed.
I agree that the speed hack is more fun, but I'm all about oRiGiNaLiTy!
I have the same sync problem with my ms pacman off to one side and cant adjust it out enough without it just scrolling. I dont have the 3 pin header just a 6 pin so not sure how to correct it. any ideas
What model of monitor do you have?
Bob’s old post might help: www.therealbobroberts.net/sync.html
@@overtimearcade yeah I've never been able to find out the model of my monitor i think its some Japanese model but no markings anywhere. the problem is the colour of the wires on mine is different i have red, yellow, black, 2 white and a green in my connector on my chassis.it works but like yours was its off to one side annoyingly. but i don't want to start looping wires together without knowing what they are in case i blow something lool
@maphisto3769 Anything printed on the chassis PCB itself? Any markings on the flyback?
@@overtimearcade there's not its very strange. not that I'm that experienced in these things but is it normal to have a small separate PCB that the video wires from the jamma go in to. with 6 wires out of that into the main chassis PCB. and also another 4 wires going out to the monitor itself .there is also a pot on this small PCB to adjust the horizontal
Shot in the dark, but could it be a Matsushita with the odd pinout & daughter card setup, or maybe a Sanyo 20EZ with an inverter board?
Would anyone know what do i look for when an arcade machine table top gives a shock when u touch the on off switch or metal ??? Any tips from you guys ??
Is everything grounded properly?
I'm pretty sure it is is there any tips too know if it is ?? I changed the end plug but not sure if I just change the whole cord ?? What would cause it too do that???
You’re pretty sure all the various grounding straps & grounding points inside of the cabinet are properly connected to earth ground? Have you checked this with your multimeter? Have you compare it against the grounding references in the manual/schematics? The fact that you’re getting shocked is a big indicator that something is not grounded properly.
It doesn't have a manual with it I got few years back. It's not a dedicated cab of ms pacman it's in a table top that looks like the old space invaders or polaris table top. One of those ugly ones it was working fine till I wanted too tighten a bolt on the tv frame and then it shocked since then how do I test for ground ? I'm starting From scratch. How do I test the power plug?
@thundercracker900 Ok, if this is some weird conversion, you’ll have to start with the fundamentals and can’t assume anything is correct. Does the power plug have a ground prong (3 prongs, not 2)? Is there an isolation transformer is the cabinet? Is the chassis frame grounded? Consult this diagram to see what kind of basic stuff needs to be connected to ground (but it doesn’t show other things that need to be wired to a grounding strap, like the control panel): www.therealbobroberts.net/basic-ac.gif
i adjust the pots on my machine to stretch the screen slightly it works great and looks better. the problem is when i come back the next day and turn it on its all out of sync again and shaking all over the place and i have to readjust them again . have you any idea why this would be i cant work it out 👍
Could be cold solder somewhere or the pots themselves are dirty/flaky?
@@overtimearcade yeah ill do some searching. just strange it's ok until it's left off overnight i can switch it off and back on and its set in the position i put if but if left off overnight its all over the place
Is it a heat related thing? Try turning it on with the shakiness and see if it fixes itself once the game warms up.
@@overtimearcade yeah ill give it a go after its been off all night see what happens. just one more thing 🤣 i have 3 pins labelled M, S, L with just 1 of them connected any idea what they are and do its on the same board as the pots and the focus adjustment
@@JOELY79 What model of monitor is this? Could it be a jumper for horizontal position?
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