Hi, I have been waiting to see another modeller building the hull shell plating! I have assembled the sheets and experienced the same little problems with some of the plates being a little short. I made replacements as each problem arose to correct the length. The stern section was the bit that bothered me most in knowing where to start the section! You did a good job on this and I may give mine a go when I feel brave!!! Great video!😉
Cheers Johnny! I started by dry fitting it first from the front and seeing where it ended up. Just use tape to hold each section in place. Then you can see where the plating ends, hope this helps!
@@thetitanicbuild Yeah that sounds a good plan. I will give that a go later today as it's grotty out! I made things more difficult by correcting the shape of the hull quite drastically. I followed Nigel's modelling bench methods which were quite radical but did correct the hull shape, so it is much more elegant and truer to the original. I am converting mine to the RMS Olympic, circa 1930's which was the final rendition of the Olympic class and obviously the only sister to stay afloat! I have practically everything from Woody's upgrades, Pontos and the KA sets. The same stuff as you have too but don't tell my wife!!!!! Mine will be a static show cased model but with working propellers and super detailing.......well that's the plan! Anyway, keep up the good work! 😉
The propellers were made from nickel aluminum bronze and the hole was made from mild steel that is on the real titanic. Nickel aluminum bronze is an alloy meant for low corrosion. Or no corrosion but of course, technically in time millions of years pass, it will corrode.
I used Tamiya Extra Thin and applied it about an inch at a time. It does slightly melt the plates which for me is good because it’s RC, but only if you use too much. It can melt them to the point they may need filling though. It happened in a few places on mine but nothing that can’t be repaired. Also if you make a mistake and are quick it can be removed but the longer it dries the harder plates can be to remove again without damaging them.
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Beautiful job...love the riveted hull plating on those ships. Almost reptilian
Thank you Wallace!
Hi, I have been waiting to see another modeller building the hull shell plating! I have assembled the sheets and experienced the same little problems with some of the plates being a little short.
I made replacements as each problem arose to correct the length. The stern section was the bit that bothered me most in knowing where to start the section! You did a good job on this and I may give mine a go when I feel brave!!! Great video!😉
Cheers Johnny! I started by dry fitting it first from the front and seeing where it ended up. Just use tape to hold each section in place. Then you can see where the plating ends, hope this helps!
@@thetitanicbuild Yeah that sounds a good plan. I will give that a go later today as it's grotty out! I made things more difficult by correcting the shape of the hull quite drastically. I followed Nigel's modelling bench methods which were quite radical but did correct the hull shape, so it is much more elegant and truer to the original. I am converting mine to the RMS Olympic, circa 1930's which was the final rendition of the Olympic class and obviously the only sister to stay afloat! I have practically everything from Woody's upgrades, Pontos and the KA sets. The same stuff as you have too but don't tell my wife!!!!! Mine will be a static show cased model but with working propellers and super detailing.......well that's the plan! Anyway, keep up the good work! 😉
I’ve got to look at correcting my hull warping but that won’t be until I start my superstructure, Cheers Johnny!
The propellers were made from nickel aluminum bronze and the hole was made from mild steel that is on the real titanic. Nickel aluminum bronze is an alloy meant for low corrosion. Or no corrosion but of course, technically in time millions of years pass, it will corrode.
Brilliant.
Thank you for the Review on my BnB Scale Ship Jewelry Props N Drops Kit.
The most accurate 1:200 Titanic Propellors you can get that actually push water. Not to mention the anchors!
@@thetitanicbuild can you add text to this fact into your video?
@@nascarnbroncosfans6055 I’ll see what I can do!
@@nascarnbroncosfans6055 Done mate!
Can you make a mild steel plate kit because the hole of the titanic was made from mild steel?
What did you use for gluing the hull plating? I'll be tackling this soon as well
I used Tamiya Extra Thin and applied it about an inch at a time. It does slightly melt the plates which for me is good because it’s RC, but only if you use too much. It can melt them to the point they may need filling though. It happened in a few places on mine but nothing that can’t be repaired. Also if you make a mistake and are quick it can be removed but the longer it dries the harder plates can be to remove again without damaging them.
The centre propeller had 4 blades?
Not according to Harland and Wolff records