To protect your ties while soldering a small alligator clip and a bit of wire attached to the rail close to soldering point will act as a heat sink and direct heat away from plastic. Works for me. New layout looking good Dave.
Good Day, Scott, your 2nd layout looks like you have been doing this for years as a pro, remember this is a hobby 2 key factors be patient and take your time, Cheers until the next update.
Is there a way to wire in a dcc all stop command do that section? I imagine you'd need some electronics to do this, but a Loco with a keepalive is not going to stop. This would solve that, if only for the dcc case.
I hope you see my comments that I made on the last video about the passenger station area and the area they you have your soldering iron setting on on this video about how you could put a turntable and roundhouse in that area
I have 2 of those Proto 2000 E9's and the kill switch I am going to install is going to kill the track for 4 feet from the bridge due to the coasting that mine are capable of. On the hinged end of the bridge, the raised bridge provides the necessary obstruction! I have put one of them and nearly the second one of the double header on the concrete floor, fortunately with only minimal easily repairable damage. I believed that I was vigilant enough but it is possible to get distracted and not close the bridge if there is some means of holding it open as is the case on my layout. The horrible noise of the result soon makes you realise you have made an error!!
Scott, love your new layout build and look forward to future videos. Though I think their was a much better way to add the kill switch and done it in such a way you wouldn't have to pull up track , solder wires , add insulators and such to both sides of the liftt up bridge section . I would of cut one of the main buss wires from your switch that selects DC/DCC and run that wire to the kill switch and from the kill switch a wire and connect it back to the wire you just cut feeding the track. Stop the whole layout with the bridge in the up position and everything on in the down position. You can still add your flashing red light with the bridge in the up position showing no power to the layout and off with bridge down and power on.
@HoosierLine Couldn't find any comments addressing this so apologies if duplicative. Question - doing it as you describe above (and I like the clean less holes/wires/etc), if cut the bus wire (does it matter which?) would it shut down that whole block or district tied to that bus until bridge is back in place? Not a big deal if just running one train, but with DCC could see someone wanting to get in while a train is on other side of room or someone is switching within the block. Curious, thanks!
Sorry for the late reply but it depends how you wire it and the function you want it to do ? Easiest solution wold be to create the bridge and a section of track either side of it as its own block. Rigging a switch to cut power when the bridge is lifted would stop any train coming from either direction as the power is cut from the track preventing your favorite equipment from spilling onto the floor.
Great video! Can you open the bridge like half way and it will hold its placement or is this an all up/all down only? I ask as my bridge span will not clear ceiling so only other option would be a lift out - btw: looking for a great lift out design as backup. Thanks!
Mine would not hold it'self half way, but you could add a hydraulic strut. Alternatively, you could just add the metal dowels at both ends and make it removable without any wires to unhook.
Gotta admit - your thumbnails for your videos are getting good... But, on another note, you didn't really need to remove the track. Figure out where you want the current break, a couple of drops of CA (super glue) on both sides so the rail doesn't slide in the ties, and one little cut with a thin disc in a Dremel (or a cut with a razor saw). You only need to break the current in one rail for what you're doing.
Ummmmm I had imagined that all along you were going to put a wire between your2 outside brass pins....then you wouldn't have needed an actual switch when th posts came down( bridge closed...) so ires attached to female ends and boom a switch😂😂😂😂😂😂
To protect your ties while soldering a small alligator clip and a bit of wire attached to the rail close to soldering point will act as a heat sink and direct heat away from plastic. Works for me. New layout looking good Dave.
Selfie Man is Dead! Poor Sap! Thanks for sharing Dave!
Do not fear. The Train stopped in time.
Great way to protect the loco's when the bridge is open. Only problem is if you have loco's with keep alives in them.
I was wondering the same thing... would 2 feet be enough for a keep alive loco... 😟
I don't intend to run trains with the bridge open. This is just for "that one time"
Dave, congrats on having trains running again. Track work looks nice and smooth and the lift bridge is excellent.
Thanks. Now I need to make the bridge look pretty.
What a brilliant idea to avoid a, potentially, costly mistake. Something to consider. Thanks for sharing. Greetings from Sweden 🇸🇪.
Well Done. Outro was awesome!
I'm liking the flip open bridge way.
Very Nicely done Dave. Works great.
Safety first! Thanks Scott
You might be able to use that extra contact for your first trackside signal. The green signal when the bridge is closed and then turn red when open.
Nice work again Dave.
Scary out video...
Hmmm. 🤔
Yes, maybe.
Happy Modelling
And another job completed!
That train looks sooo much better on those wider curves....well done
Yes, even my wife commented on that.
Love it! Working great. Just to make you sweat, think Keep Alive. LOL
Very well done.
Good Day, Scott, your 2nd layout looks like you have been doing this for years as a pro, remember this is a hobby 2 key factors be patient and take your time, Cheers until the next update.
Another good one,
Cheers, Geoff
Nice job,thanks for the reply they will be there when your ready!give you on the 17th if I bump into you!!! Keep on keeping on Dr.Dave!
Nice work, very nice.
Excellent work!
Looking good.
Good job dave
Is there a way to wire in a dcc all stop command do that section? I imagine you'd need some electronics to do this, but a Loco with a keepalive is not going to stop. This would solve that, if only for the dcc case.
At the beginning of the video
Looks great Dave, especially with the long cars, glad your deadman switch works good but why did you have to
" kill Kenny "
Selfie man is safe, do not fear.
I hope you see my comments that I made on the last video about the passenger station area and the area they you have your soldering iron setting on on this video about how you could put a turntable and roundhouse in that area
Yes, I did see that, but was too tired to comment, sorry. I'm going for more town type areas than yards.
I have 2 of those Proto 2000 E9's and the kill switch I am going to install is going to kill the track for 4 feet from the bridge due to the coasting that mine are capable of. On the hinged end of the bridge, the raised bridge provides the necessary obstruction! I have put one of them and nearly the second one of the double header on the concrete floor, fortunately with only minimal easily repairable damage. I believed that I was vigilant enough but it is possible to get distracted and not close the bridge if there is some means of holding it open as is the case on my layout. The horrible noise of the result soon makes you realise you have made an error!!
Scott, love your new layout build and look forward to future videos. Though I think their was a much better way to add the kill switch and done it in such a way you wouldn't have to pull up track , solder wires , add insulators and such to both sides of the liftt up bridge section . I would of cut one of the main buss wires from your switch that selects DC/DCC and run that wire to the kill switch and from the kill switch a wire and connect it back to the wire you just cut feeding the track. Stop the whole layout with the bridge in the up position and everything on in the down position. You can still add your flashing red light with the bridge in the up position showing no power to the layout and off with bridge down and power on.
@HoosierLine Couldn't find any comments addressing this so apologies if duplicative. Question - doing it as you describe above (and I like the clean less holes/wires/etc), if cut the bus wire (does it matter which?) would it shut down that whole block or district tied to that bus until bridge is back in place? Not a big deal if just running one train, but with DCC could see someone wanting to get in while a train is on other side of room or someone is switching within the block. Curious, thanks!
Sorry for the late reply but it depends how you wire it and the function you want it to do ? Easiest solution wold be to create the bridge and a section of track either side of it as its own block. Rigging a switch to cut power when the bridge is lifted would stop any train coming from either direction as the power is cut from the track preventing your favorite equipment from spilling onto the floor.
@@HoosierLine Many thanks!
👍
Yes, but a friend of mine would say 'the floor' is a perfectly suitable way to treat a diseasel. Note all the cars lined up to watch.
Boa ideia, cuidado com as locomotivas que tenham o sistema a live elas não param até acabar a tensão dos capacitores
Sempre tentarei manter a ponte baixa.
Just power one rail from one side of bridge and the second rail from the other side. Lift bridge power interrupted.
It's not the power on the bridge we're trying to cut, lol.
See I made the mistake of not adding a kill switch, it did not end well
Is there going to be a streetcar system on your sparkling new layout?
Do you mean trams, or motor cars on the streets? There will be a moving car system.
I meant trams, but it’s cool that you are going to do the moving cars on your new layout!
Great video! Can you open the bridge like half way and it will hold its placement or is this an all up/all down only? I ask as my bridge span will not clear ceiling so only other option would be a lift out - btw: looking for a great lift out design as backup. Thanks!
Mine would not hold it'self half way, but you could add a hydraulic strut. Alternatively, you could just add the metal dowels at both ends and make it removable without any wires to unhook.
What would happen if the loco has keep alive
Lets hope we never find out, lol
@ScottRails what soldering iron are you using... I am in the market for a new one and wondering how you like yours.
I love this soldering station. Comes with some extra bits. Link here.
amzn.to/3SX9DzQ
the Delorean reached 88Mph just before the bridge disappeared.
Gotta admit - your thumbnails for your videos are getting good... But, on another note, you didn't really need to remove the track. Figure out where you want the current break, a couple of drops of CA (super glue) on both sides so the rail doesn't slide in the ties, and one little cut with a thin disc in a Dremel (or a cut with a razor saw). You only need to break the current in one rail for what you're doing.
True, but I didn't want to smash my rail sleepers with my drill.
Ummmmm I had imagined that all along you were going to put a wire between your2 outside brass pins....then you wouldn't have needed an actual switch when th posts came down( bridge closed...) so ires attached to female ends and boom a switch😂😂😂😂😂😂
I want to keep the bridge wire free.
Flux and tin your wires :P Good work otherwise.
Beautiful!