Hahahah! Yes ... sort of :) The problem is two-fold . 1) There may be no regional supply of the recommended fuel. 2) The recommendation of a fuel, is based upon a business deal ... the fuel must be correct, but it doesn't have to be the cheapest. This is why it is a good idea to understand standards. It is also why different oil companies choose to use different standards ... to prevent public comprehension :)
@@EngineTuning , Correct. But people using diesel & jet fuel in these heaters are asking for trouble. We don't have many choices here either but !K kerosene is available almost everywhere.
Modern kerosene stoves with wick essentially also act as a catalyst. After combustion, what remains is only carbon dioxide, i.e. the same as what humans exhale. We are talking about for K-1 type kerosene that is sold in the United States and meets the specifications for indoor use. There is also this type of kerosene in Europe, of course it is expensive, but worth it.
i see a lot of negative comments on this video when all this man is trying to say is help your health. paraffin heaters always recommend using in a ventilated area to get rid of carbon monoxide. Some people do get affected more then others when it comes to the smell of paraffin. people dye of paraffin heaters because they use the wrong fuel such as dyed kerosene or that they haven't ventilated the area. Paraffin heaters are as safe as any other heat source if they are used in the right way. Although i believe that most that is said in this video should be common sense but the fact is, he has made this video to try save lifes.
I always have a dual fire/ carbon detector no matter where I live/ car/ camper/ tent / home. Haven't needed it except for some burnt beans once. But prevention safety counts. PS I agree with you
A lot of useful information in this video. I feel that I have learnt something in just over thirteen minutes. Very well presented and not rushed makes it easy to follow and digest.
Thanks Robert for that comment. The concept of 'learning a complex subject in under 3 minutes' is almost always a fail. Anyway... I've never been able to make such videos. Thankfully there are people who still like to get a reasonable understanding of a subject. There is reason for hope :)
Thanks for very useful advice. I used to run a parafin heater on my boat but now I refuse to pay the extortionate parafin price on principle. No boat now, so I've been using the same parafin heater in my conservatory with heating oil (80p litre) and window open. Though I've just installed one of the chinese deisel heaters in there, again run on heating oil and it's brilliant. I've actually got three of the parafin stoves, two with wicks, one electric and tried them all with heating oil. Good good clean burns with no smell when going. Wick ones will be treasure if we get power cuts, though I have installed a carbon monoxide alarm. Thanks again for alerting us of the danger.
This is a great video and gives some superb tips on the correct fuel to burn....Basically this guy could save you life if you follow his advise. Burning the incorrect fuel indoors could lead to death...Thanks for posting
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I’ve got an addiction to hurricane and old pressure lanterns and I recently bought an old valour stove, I didn’t understand the difference between c1 & c2 thanks for sharing this very informative vid. I’ll be using C1.
Thankyou for taking the time to produce this video. I'm about to start using a paraffin heater in a small space and I'm doing my homework. This is good info here.
Great video. I'm looking for a good cost-effective way of keeping a big conservatory/ home office warm in the winter and this seems like a good option. Very informative about the classes of paraffin. I prefer the idea of using paraffin oil to bottled gas heaters.
The highly refined kerosene in the US is called 1-K. I have found it to be entirely smoke free and with a very muted odor compared to the kerosene I remember from many years ago. The problem is how freaking expensive it is right now, so it's emergency heat only at this time. Texas dodged a bullet *this time.*
Thanks for that comment hamish. I researched 1k specifications - ASTM D3699 - 18a. Annoyingly, they are hidden behind a paywall ... $48 to see. This is not very helpful, when a consumer is looking to determine the safety of a product. However, a summary is listed here www.cenex.com/~/media/cenex/files/fuels/data%20sheets%20and%20brochures/k-2%20kerosene.ashx It's not a great summary, but it's the best that I've found, and it is VERY interesting. The flash point is listed at 37.7 C (100 F) Wow! If this is true (see below), it means that both 1k and 2k grades are highly volatile. On a very hot summers day, they will emit flammable gasses (like say petrol). It seems hard to believe, but perhaps it is refined so highly to counter the extreme sub zero temperatures experienced in Canada. But even still; in a home environment, the house would rarely be so cold. To put this in context, the burner pre-heater need only warm the fuel to 38 C in order to create a gas, compared to C1 56 C. That is confusing as you state that it fumes on start up, unless the pre-heater only heats to 38 C. Again, if true, these fuels would have an extremely high energy content, and burn very hot. Note also, that once running, the room temperature will be no different to that in Europe. Hmmmm! My belief is that different test methods have been used. There are two basic types of flash point measurement: open cup and closed cup. These different test procedures produce wildly different outcomes. In this respect, different standards cannot be compared. This differential is often used in published oil specs, to prevent the consumer from choosing their oil based upon which is the best (leaving that goal in the hands of the marketing departments). Note the mix of F & C temp measurements :( Also note that dangerous element content is not listed ... only sulfur, that concerns smell. Therefore, overall we learn very little from the privately provided summary. What a shame. Does anybody fancy blowing $48 ? www.astm.org/Standards/D3699.htm :)?
The only "Avgas" most people would be able to get their hands on is for petrol aircraft piston engines, and is one of the only LEADED fuels still available in the UK, so that's a bad idea even in a petrol stove. In the UK the main three "Heating oils" are diesel, kerosene, and paraffin, and they're all part of the same group of light oils....... But that DOESN'T mean they're interchangeable ! Diesel (Be it red or white) is the dirtiest of the trio. There's not as much crud in this as there used to be, but it can still have some pretty nasty stuff in it, and you really don't don't want to be burning this in anything that doesn't have a sealed combustion chamber with a chimney, and some form of heat exchanger to get heat into your room. The down side of this is that most heaters with a heat exchanger also have electric fans, and that could be an issue for an emergency heat source for if the lights go out. The chemicals added to make this stuff suitable for piston engines will also clog the wick of most oil heaters that use one. Because of this, it's only really usefull for industrial type heaters that burn an atomised mist of fuel, with either an enclosed burn chamber and flue, or diesel space heaters that are being used in a large industrial setting with a constant loss ventilation (Ie, the sort of place with a big open roller door that's letting heat and fumes out all the time the heaters going to be running). you can add things to prevent wick clogging (Like the "Diesel conditioner" you put in diesel engined equipment before laying it up for a length of time, or some people say running (IIRC) an approximately 1 to 50 mix of isopropyl alcohol and diesel stops this from happening), but I've never tried any of these tricks, and personally, it feels stupid to add yet more chemicals to a fuel that's already laced with a fair few. The benefits of diesel is that it's available EVERYWHERE. If you make friends with a local car scrap yard, you may even be able to buy cheap diesel from them that's had to be syphoned from cars before being crushed. The next is Kerosene. In the UK, this is not the same stuff as what Americans call Kerosene. Here in the UK it's intended as a heating oil. it's again best to be burnt in a heater that has an enclosed burn chamber, a heat exchanger, and flue, but if you need to use it in a open air heater, it's going to be significantly less harmful for you than using diesel intended for road use. Just make sure that you get a heater that's more powerful than you need, because you're going to want some ventilation if using this stuff. It won't clog wicks on oil burners that use them, but it can leave a pretty strong smell if burn in things like inefficient oil lamps or "Patio/greenhouse" type heaters. If bought in 4 or 5lL bottles it can be pretty expensive, but bought in bulk It can be significantly cheaper than road diesel, but most bulk suppliers have a 500L minimum order, so buying and storing that much can be a bit of a hurdle if you just want some for an emergency heater for if there's a power cut. Last we have paraffin. This is annoyingly also available in different grades, and some suppliers have their own non quantifiable terminology for their grades (Words like "Premium Quality" or "High Purity" often have no bearing on what's inside the packaging). As this guy says, what you want to look at is if it's grade "C1" or "C2". C2 is pretty much just a cleaner kerosene that's sold at an inflated price. If burnt in an open flame heater it will usually give off a bit of smell, but unless you have a small room with next to no ventilation it's unlikely to give you any major health worries if you're only using it a few times a year when your homes main heating isn't an option. C1 is the best option for open flame heaters and lamps. it leaves little soot on lamp chimneys, and if it really IS C1, it shouldn't really smell. You may get an odour from it when the burners first lit and put out, but that should stop pretty quickly with a well setup heater. C2 is often sold at places like garden centres as patio or greenhouse heater oil. It's not cheap, but it's more convenient than trying to work out what to do with 500L or kerosene ! C1 can be really expensive if bought in the 4 or 5L containers, but some oil suppliers get it in 1000L IBC containers, and meter it out into your own jerry can. It's still not cheap, but it's cheaper than the 1l lamp oll bottles it's commonly sold in. One thing to mention about ANY open flame heater is that if consumes oxygen (I know, blinding flash of the obvious there. :D). But most people don't realise how much air they actually consume. in a small room with minimal ventilation and a small open flame heater, it can only take a few hours before the thing can lower the oxygen level to the point where you feel tired. After that you may start getting a headache. There's been many near misses and deaths from people using open flame heating in modern houses (Old houses were drafty as hell, but modern one's tend to be pretty well sealed up, where the gaps around doors and windows are all plugged up with rubber strips). Personal opinion is that if you want to get yourself an oil heater, get something more powerful than you need, and always have a couple of windows cracked open an inch or two. That may sound counter productive, but just doing this will move the air around a bit, and bring more than enough fresh oxygen into the room. On top of that, have a google and find a medical website you trust, and look up the stages of asphyxia/suffocation. Being able to recognise the early warnings could save your life.
Thanks for the video. You made me feel better about just using the kerosene and not trying to burn #2 fuel or jet fuel. I think I'll just enjoy my kerosene and not poison myself
Due to the energy crisis in the Netherlands I have bought the cheap stuff before i knew the facts. The seller told me it's fine, but I'm already having trouble after 2 weeks of usage. The only problem is that I have quite some of the cheap stuff. Do I have to get rid of all of it, or could I combine the manufacturers petroleum with the cheap stuff together when filling the heater?
Understanding the financial difficulties in life... Mixing and adding acetone, is the way forward. Buy 5 litres of acetone from a diy store, and add 10ml acetone per litre of fuel (1%) . This is an extremely cost effective way to improve the burn temperature, and therefore gain more heat. Plus, the improved burn will keep the system clean(er). Check around for the cheapest, indoor fuel (no flue and typically showing a picture of a paraffin heater on the container - typically 20lt). Prices have doubled from last year, in France. It used to be €1 per litre, and now it is €2 per litre. (it's a con ... most of the cost is tax) There are 3 grades, defined by aroma. Typically €40, €45, €50 for 20lt. If you are mixing with kerosene, then there is no point in buying anything but the cheapest. So check around. With the acetone, you should be able to turn it down a bit, but make sure that it is burning with a blue flame, as this indicates a clean burn. You must have ventilation - be aware of feeling drowsy, or weeping eyes.
The problem I have is. I bought a kerosene heater not knowing too much but assuming it would be cheaper. I bought regular kerosene, which said it was high grade blah, blah. But it was just the regular stuff and made the house stink. So I bought clear lamp oil. Thing is, this costs me about 70p per hour to run. Plus replacing the wicks etc An electric heater would cost me about that too, so I'm not sure that it's worth running the kerosene heater. I think it's handy to have as an alternative or emergency option. I also have. kerosene lamp. So that would be handy in power cuts, grid down situations etc. Also I can cook and boil water on top of it which is handy. If I could find cheaper clear kerosene it would be worth it, but not at the cheapest price I can currently find. Which is about £3.60 per litre.
£3.60 per litre is not correct, for when buying in 20lt quantities. You should carry out some research on fuel supply sources. I doubt very much that it is more expensive than diesel. Although it is more refined, it has reduced tax, due to it being home heating fuel. £3.60 sounds like profiteering.
@@EngineTuning I had a quick look and I think I found another cheaper supplier. I don't think I can post links on here as my last message isn't showing. This place sells "odourless kerosene" for £60 per 25l. Don't need to pay VAT if used for heating. So that seems a bit more in line with what you were saying pal. So that would cost me about 48p per hour, which is getting better.
@@tqdesign9288 So the £60 includes VAT, meaning that the price will drop? There are three grades of odourless, so the price could be par. RE links, you can post youtube links, but for external you can disguise the link by dropping the https prefix, and saying DOT instead of '.'
@@EngineTuning I think you are right there. It does include the VAT in the £60, but hopefully I can get it removed from the bill as it's for heating. Their website says there isn't VAT if it's for heating. So at this price it comes in at about half the price of running my electric heater. I'm thinking through winter, once it starts getting to freezing temps, to just put my central heating on for a couple of hours each morning to prevent the pipes freezing. Then use a small kerosene heater upstairs and one downstairs to heat the house for the rest of the time.
I've never been in a situation where I have had to burn diesel. However, a comparison might be useful. At the moment, I'm tied up, but I can't rule it out. :)
I've got an old Aladdin Blue Flame Series 25, I've been using it for the last 4 years, I run it on standard heating oil straight from the pump at a petrol station near where I live, it's kept us warm on the coldest of winter nights, but I'd never use it without a carbon monoxide monitor, incidentally the monitor has never gone above 8ppm and only then on occasions it normally sits a zero, the nose is the best indicator, if it stinks something is wrong, usually dirty wick or contaminated fuel ie water in it,
"if it stinks something is wrong," This is true for the presence of pollutants, but definitely not for the imbalance of oxygen. This is due to the available oxygen being used up by the combustion process - ventilation is required. Regarding pollutants ... the vid explains this clearly enough, and it is easily understood. ... if you burn a pure alcohol everything is burned ... you are only using oxygen - there are no dangerous particulates remaining in the combustion fumes. As you proceed down the refining grades, the oil becomes less volatile. This requires higher combustion temperatures to consume the pollutants. However, the heater is what it is. For portable heaters, the combustion fumes are vented into the enclosed living space (regardless of ventilation). Be aware that these heaters WILL burn lower grade (less refined) oil - say high grade heating oil, that when burned, must be vented outside via an installed flue. With an externally vented flue, there is no need to use highly refined oil, so the oil is cheaper, because it is siphoned off at an earlier stage of refinement. Ha! If you think that is bad ... these heaters will burn oil that is even less refined; or oil that has additives to assist with engine combustion/operation. If that's all you can get (or afford) ... be aware of the risks, particularly if you have children. Try to ameliorate the situation, with a regular full vent of the room (open the window and a door) ... you will immediately notice the difference with your eyes and drowsiness. Also be aware, that with heating oil and lower, the heater must be dismantled and cleaned after each winter (or also mid way through the cold season). This is your balancing 'labour payment' for the cheaper fuel ;) (Once done, it is very quick and easy - see th-cam.com/video/VC-5657JLhU/w-d-xo.html ) The other cost factor is that the highly refined paraffin C1 grade oil produces 10% more heat per unit, over C2 grade heating oil (and correspondingly more over the lower grades). This means that if heating oil is 10% cheaper ... it is in fact the same price (but with more dangerous pollutants). If it is 20% cheaper ... it is only 10% cheaper and you get the pollutants, and you must also pay extra with your labour). There is no free lunch ;) Also note that the C1 grade paraffin allows the heat to be turned down without creating more pollutants ... keeping you acceptably warm without wasting fuel by overheating. (wasted heat is wasted money - 10% overheating plus the 10% less calorific value and you've just blown your 20% saving ... to gain more pollutants, and a regular heater strip) I don't cast aspersions, or sit on a high horse - there are plenty of visitors to this channel that get the oil that they can get ... it is all about being aware, and doing your best to look after your family (who will be relying on you). Hence why I recommend, if at all possible, to locate the cheapest source of the highest grade fuel. Buy in advance, and buy in bulk, and make sure that you check the specs before handing over the cash - the fuel salesman can, and often will, tell you what you want to hear ;) Remember ... the laws of physics always apply ... but I know that we do, what we must do, to stay warm :)
Thanks for the info, they do sell C1 at my petrol station but it's £35 for 20lte, at the moment I'm paying 75p for a litre of C2 heating oil, when I first got my Aladdin it was 45p a litre, but so far in the last few years we've had no ill effects from using standard boiler juice, switching to C1, would be more expensive than using our storage heaters, which incidentally are useless, hence the reason we're using the old paraffin heater
I can't answer the comment from a knowledgeable health perspective. I'm an engineer, and I am taking a punt on the fact (?) that the British Standards were created by other engineers who did their best to document the pollutants arising from the combustion of lower refined oils. Also, their conclusions are logical ... the more refined, the less shit that remains in the oil, and the hotter it burns. As for the business economics ... for sure, the price difference is entirely unfair. The cost difference between siphoning off the oil earlier grade, cannot equate to the enormous price difference. ... evidently, this difference is a rip off. However, it is what it is ... you pay your money and make your choice. Personally, I look for the cheapest source of the highest grade fuel. I've found that there is always a cheaper supply, cos they are still making money. Unlike typical goods, we have specs. So, you are not paying more, to get higher refinement. You establish the specs first, and then pay the minimum that you can. Obviously, you can choose to disbelieve the specs, and believe that all oil (thick or thin) is the same ... but the cleaning regime proves otherwise, and the rest is simple arithmetic. Ships burn bunker fuel ... effectively the very last grade - the bottom of the barrel. Incredibly toxic, they burn over 100 tons per day !!!!!! The vid does not present a political message; rather, it is pure information. You might use that information, to find the cheapest source of fuel that you need OR to take care, when burning an oil that might not be good for you in the long term. Obviously, if you don't have kids, it's not a problem. Just talk it over with the missus, and come to an agreement :)
One more point ... £35 for 20 litres is a total fail. last year, in France I bought 20 litres for around €17 .... maybe 15 quid! Therefore, I believe that the £35 is a joke price, and not really applicable for serious people. Why not take the usual option, and find the cheapest source? Have you ever bought a sandwich at a petrol station? Ha! The better option would be to spend two minutes grabbing some food from the fridge (almost free food in comparison). It's a no brainer. You don't stock up for winter, by buying from a convenience store. They are just for emergencies ... and you are made to pay for 'not being prepared'. Is that fair comment?
Thanks for the info, very good point.. these people burning diesel have no idea what the by products are. Those would be better suited to a barn or outdoor shop of some kind.
My opinion is that it will not be safe. Buy some high quality paraffin refined for indoor heaters. Check how it is a very light oil ... you can barely call it an oil, because it is so well refined. Compare it to your biodiesel. There is no way that it will burn clean. Remember ... the little diesel heaters that people fit into mobile homes ... they have an exhaust pipe that must be routed outside. The reason for this is that the exhaust fumes will kill you. Stay safe, and keep your family safe.
I dont have a kerosene heater...yet. Im learning. If I understand this correctly 1k kerosene combustion products are safe to breath assuming the heater is operating properly. The greatest issue to health is CO and CO2 build up in the indoor air which is easily solved with proper ventilation. Correct?
Yes ... Adequate ventilation is necessary. This is the case for all flame based internal heat. Traditional fires tend to be self regulating, in that they simply won't burn without significant ventilation. The arrival of sealed double glazed windows killed off the coal burning hearth in the UK - they literally couldn't function. I have mine in the space of a removed hearth. This seems quite effective as it provides low ventilation. I presume that most of the heat rises and fills the room, but some will rise through the chimney, taking with it the heavier CO's. The fresh air will be sucked in naturally, due to the ancient design of the house.
Thank you for both your response and video. I watched it several times trying to find a loophole but didn't. After viewing a number of vids demonstrating the use of diesel as a cheaper alternative fuel to kerosene I was tempted. My problem is that eventhough I live a few miles from one of the largest oil fields in North America, kerosene is strangely unavailable or ridiculously expensive (by local standards). Several "box stores" are selling 1K at $2.60/L which is high considering gasoline sells for less than $.50/L here currently. Diesel is 1/4th cost of 1K at $0.65/L and is widely available. See the temptation? After a search I've located a seller of 1K at $1/L not so far away which makes the kerosene heater viable as a backup heat source. I use a natural gas central unit primarily but in the event of an outage I'd be stuck; plus, its old.
Well done for tracking down a better supplier :) ... it's cheaper than we pay in Europe. Clearly it is still a rip off due to excessive taxes and profiteering ... but don't forget that the 1k will burn hotter, so you will get more bang for your buck (compared to basic kerosene) ... and the heat will not be laced with toxic substances. :)
I have a Corona wick heater, I usually fire it up and then turn it down once it starts burning hot. Is it better to run it close to full or turn it down low for efficiency and clean burn. Also how often do you replace the wick, I have had mine a year now but just wondering how long they last.
I have one also, though I've not used it for some years. When turning down the wick, there is a point where you can see that combustion isn't perfect, and more odour will be produced. If you have the wick burn efficiently, it will produce a gas, and it is the gas that burns (not the wick) ... at least, that's the theory :)
Cheers, mine seems to be working well so far, if I turn it down too quickly it does sputter a bit but the heat picks up again and it glows hot. I like the glow of the wick ones but cant find much info on how long the wicks last, I suppose I will know when it needs replacing as the heater won’t burn properly.
Here in Belgium two types of petroleum (Kerosine). You can buy two types at the petrol station. One for household about 15 cent/liter which should according to specification good enough for heating ygood in house. However it wil l break a laser heating. To much dust and other garbage in it. fuel nosle and pump will get clogged. But according to Shell it should be useful for laser petrol heater. We contacted them because the heater broke. According to the producer of qlima you should only use their petrol because its more refined/filtered. Their cost 30 euro/20 liter is 1.50 euro per liter. Lately we bought petrol from special shops not at the pump for laser (not qlima) but after time it also broke the heater. So I asume a wick heater is a better choice. Anyway very good video
Yeah, in France you can pay €30 but some stores sell it for €22 . The cheaper 'home heating" oil typically clogs the flame rod. I made a video on how to fix this problem :)
@@rudolfr178 We use PTX 2000 here in France, at the moment it's about 20 euros for 20 litres. Being using a sre co 30x electric heater for six years, just starting to get a e4 code, hence finding this channel. Never used the high quality parrafin such as zipro, though it might be slightly more refined,at 50% extra cost we have stuck with PTX 2000.
@@guysmith3146 We use a qlima, at first we used their brand of petroleum. But found a cheaper solution taking petroleum from the station. In here they have two kinds. Red petroleum not for home use and another suitable for home use heating etcetera. However after six months the our laser petroleum heater stopped working. No garanty reapair 70 euro. I think those laser petroleum heaters are more sensitive for this. The old types with a wick think they are less sensitive. But I have no experience with them. Just an antique one from before first world war. Still working but smoking awfull (Wick is finished). Started it up after 100 years standing at the attic. Simple construction but still works.
Thanks so much for answering the question I could never find a definitive answer for for my new inverter heater. I will only use C1 paraffin in it. Now to try and find a supplier in the Northwest UK. I've found 20L for £33 at ryeoil if you know better I'd be very grateful of a nudge. Now I'll go and look at your service videos. Thanks!
I don't know Jonno. Fuel prices are going crazy now - I just paid €1.80 per litre of diesel!!!! Last time I looked (before the war) - 20lt of paraffin was €22 - around £19. If the shops with stocks haven't put their prices up, then a lot of people will begin to augment their diesel with paraffin ;)
@@EngineTuning Thanks for the reply. Shame I'm not in France, your stuff there is a lot more affordable BUT I'm happy with how many days I'm getting out of my heater on save mode.
Hello , If you can help me please , i have an Kero SRE3001 heater and when i want to start it E6 error apears. Do you have any ideas what is it for ? Sorry for my english..
I bought one of these for emergencies. Kerosene is not sold state wide. The LPG heaters cost more. A lot more if you try to find one with equivalent BTUs the big Kerosene heaters put out and they dont come with the hoses and other hardware so your buying that separately. Then the issue of storing the propain tanks. I don't have a shed and it's a horrible death if it leaks. I plan to run diesel in it. I can keep 5 gallons in my spare storage bedroom over winter and in the late spring if I don't end up needing it dump it into a waste oil collection bin at a automotive center so I'm not ever dealing with old degraded fuel and not be out a bunch of money.
@@EngineTuning fuel and energy costs are going to go up 100s of % this winter in much of Europe. 1st world nations going back to the dark ages. Civil unrest will come. The political order no longer coincide with the economic order. Here, it is much the same but the people know that foreign powers of Russia do not dictate to us the cost of fuel. North America can produce enough energy to supply itself, Europe and have plenty left over. The Greta Thunbergs of the world have been shut off no longer invited on television or to give speeches at the UN. In November a day of reckoning will come much of my governments power will be stripped, hobbling its ability to cause more damage. But we have a few more years until it dies off and we can start repairing the damage. We are in bad times
@@lampshadesoapmaker678 We are in very bad times. It certainly seems that success has bred confidence of action, without restriction, nor retribution. The big 'game plays' are purposefully devastating........
Oh! BTW ... As long as you keep the lid on the fuel, it will be good for a very long time. If you open the container, and use say half, then you could decant the remaining fuel to a smaller container, or containers. Just don't forget to mark up the containers, vis a vis their contents, and date. The key is to minimise oxygen, within the container. If you are using 20 litres in a winter season... The growing oxygen content doesn't matter. One of the main problems is water at the bottom of the newly purchased fuel. In a clear container, it can be seen. Many people buy a water filtering funnel, and decant the new fuel into the previous container. Acetone, not only raise fuel burn temperature; but also helps mix any humidity with the fuel. This enables the moisture to be evaporated during the burn, with no negative consequences. Note that this works extremely well with diesel and petrol engines ;) Apparently Myth Busters proved that this wasn't so. Hahahah! Just try 0.5% acetone to fuel. Know approximately the fuel quantity in your tank. Then, mix up a jerry can of extra fuel, with acetone added, to create a mix of 0.5% acetone. Note: Adding more acetone doesn't really help. You can add 1% or 2% (even more) without any problems. It's just that 0.5% does the job (and is financially beneficial). Meaning that you get more power from each liter, so you use less fuel. ... and your engine burns cleaner. Acetone is likely one of the main ingredients in the expensive fuels that you can now buy in some service stations. Anyway ... switch the engine on; and then add the acetone laced fuel from the jerry can. Listen to the engine note change, as the laced fuel hits the combustion chamber :D
@@EngineTuning I fired up my new heater the big 23K BTU units the shape of a drum and just used straight diesel. My home smelled like a truck stop on start up and shut down. Not horrible as my dad is a truck driver and it is a familiar smell. No smell while it's running just maybe the smell of hot metal if you put your head over it. Ran it for maybe 2 hours and theirs slight tar buildup on the fiberglass wick. Which is fine as these fiberglass wicks are self cleaning if you keep it lit until it runs out of fuel. That stuff will burn off. It has instructions on how to do this that came with the unit. The flame is not as high as it should be. I'll burn this tank out and try the acetone maybe it'll thin out the fuel. The unit did heat my entire home anyways and did not produce fumes. Worked great it's just a giant center draft oil lantern and the light it puts off was comforting. I have cheap natural gas I heat with but last November my furnace broke and I went without heat for 4 days due to supply chain issues waiting for parts. Everything is a supply chain isse go to the grocery store and the shelves are always empty like the Soviet Union or something.
Hello. I have the zibro R18 E heater ,. When I use it , it puts out a smell, then you can't use it , also it doesn't seem to put out much heat, I was told they give out a lot of heat,. Tks
@@EngineTuning hello. Tks for the quick response, I'll look into what your saying, should it smell much, and should it give out much heat, I would be using it in the house,
@@martinmorgan8475 Upon first ignition from cold; a puff of smoke is ejected. This is because at the moment of combustion, the temp is too low. It is just one puff of smoke. I take a bin bag, and hold it over the grill (when it begins clicking). The bag fills with smoke. I close it, and empty it outside. The stove will kick out around 3 KW of heat. That's hot!
There is one more fuel above C1 and its called ROLF - "Reduced Order Liquid Fuel" it's completely clear and does not smell - looks like water - its so good that you never have to remove carbon from the wick...wicks can last 1000's of hours with this fuel - absolutely no paraffiny smell at all - as a matter of fact the carbon on the wicks is mainly down to the die they add to the paraffin - it used to be able to be bought in bulk a few years ago, so was economical then not so now .
Can u run these on Red diesel, as it's around £1.20 a litre at the moment but C1 paraffin is over £2 a litre and Heating oil/kerosene around £1.70. I only ever need around 50l a month during winter and looking to save some money.
Everything is as stated in the video. It is evident that heating fuel prices are over taxed. C1 should be no more expensive than Red. If you wish to use diesel as a safe heating fuel, you need a flue or exhaust based system.
When restarting the heater with last years fuel still in it, you can expect problems like this. Add 1% acetone to the fuel on each refill. If this doesn't cure the problem, then you will need to watch my video on how to service the heater th-cam.com/video/VC-5657JLhU/w-d-xo.html :)
Bonjour, mon Tosai SRE 301 me donne un code erreur H36, ce serait filtre a air bloqué, je l'ai démonté mais je ne vois pas de filtre a air, quelqu'un pourrait m'aider ?
The air filter is a simple mesh, that allows the free flow of air. It's roll is to filter larger particles such as hair, wool, cotton etc. It is fixed into the case, at the rear or side.
Any advice Welcome I have a Zibro LC-400 heater however after a minute or so it will cut out with a E-11 code ( Ventilation) I’ve even tried the unit outside and still cuts out with E-11 code.
I haven't come across an E11 code before. You've identified it as 'ventilation' ... this could mean it is a CO2 warning ie. ventilation required. As you have tested the heater outside (nice!),the likelihood is that, if it is a CO2 sensor warning ... the sensor either requires calibration, or it has simply failed. I have already covered the solution to both these eventualities: th-cam.com/video/djHI69lIcxo/w-d-xo.html As you can see from the comments; in most cases, re-calibration works perfectly. However, if you are unlucky (like I was) then you will need to bridge the sensor, and install a stand alone sensor. If this latter fix does not work, then you can unbridge the sensor, as the code must mean something else. In that case ... follow the standard cleaning procedure as outlined here: th-cam.com/video/VC-5657JLhU/w-d-xo.html ... then suck out the old fuel, and start the heater with a fresh batch. Ideally begin with high quality grade fuel C1 or K1 in North America, or, if using kerosene, add 1% acetone to gain a clean burn.
I just picked up an Aladdin Blue Flame. After watching this, I can’t wait to light up…my wood stove. The Aladdin can just sit in the corner of the room and hold some books or something.
If you are to breathe the fumes of combustion; it is wise to know what you are burning ... particularly if you have a family that is relying upon you for your wisdom.
Back in about 1957 - 1959 my family used an old-style kerosene heater to stay warm, in the southeastern part of the USA. It was the only heat source. In those days kerosene was much cheaper than gasoline (aka petrol in the UK). Nowadays kerosene is somewhere between $11 & $12 per gallon in the USA, and is hard to find in useful quantities, since so few people use it for heating their homes anymore. At present I can find diesel fuel for about $3.75 U.S. per gallon, and I think home heating oil meant for a furnace with a flue is substantially cheaper. I'm not planning to use an oil stove for the main source of heat, just emergency backup heat, but if the electricity fails for an extended period of time, our gas furnace won't run (neither the igniter, the flow control valve, the blower, nor the thermostat). I don't know what if any standards were applied for kerosene back in the 1950s when my family used it, and other people did the same for decades prior. I wonder if all the bad things like copper, zinc, lead, etc. were higher or lower than the C1 or C2 British standard in those days? Who knows? But apparently people survived it fairly well back then. I don't think I will plan to store lots of gallons of kerosene at $12 per gallon for emergency use though. I'll probably take my chances on low-sulphur diesel fuel, probably with a little alcohol or some other additive. People who use oil heaters on a continuous basis and can get the C1 grade kerosene at a reasonable price might decide differently though. Even though I won't be taking your advice, the information is great for people using it on a continuous basis.
Very nicely thought through comment John. Thanks for that :) I do understand your general questioning of the safety line, and how it might have moved (or not) ... and what might be the outcomes, given long term usage of an oil. We are now quite used to being fed false information. That in itself leads us to question past information ... like; was it as bad then, as it is now? My best guess, is that 'back then in the late 50's and 60's' the safety knowledge was probably known, or at least it would be an educated assumption, that the fumes might not be ideal for health. Let's not forget that the refiners knew exactly what was in any given fuel ... because they had refined it ;) The question was likely more to do with what was acceptable to the plebiscite, within an acceptable tolerance to achieve a working life, to say 65. ... death often followed fairly quickly after that. Let's also not forget, that we were not far away from heavy smoke inhalation - think of 'Dark Satanic Mills' ;) Hahah! You may have learned that improved sewage came about, only when the stench was too great in the houses of parliament :D However (and by some chance of fate), engineering standards in the UK, took on a life of their own. Perhaps allowed, because in fact, profit could be achieved from higher standards (things worked better). Take for example electricity. Actual standards in Europe today (meaning what you find in your house), are abysmal compared to the UK. I have found in my house (France), cabling from at least the 1930's, mixed in with modern cabling ... and that circuit supplies lights AND sockets! Consequently (and from experience); I believe the test engineers. ... for how long; I don't know; but for the time being, I believe that they are providing us with the correct data. Obviously; what the media states (including TH-camrs), could be anything ... but we can still look for ourselves, and find the core test results. Hey! The head of national statistics came out recently, stating that their published death stats were absolutely correct ... because they contradicted what the media and politicians were saying (ie. normal death stats). Who are you gonna believe? Him and his long standing team, or the media and the politicians? From this ... I think that you are making a suitable emergency provision (with the diesel), because the short term benefit is enormous, against limited toxicity during an emergency. Re prices It's driven by other forces. In France 1 US gallon of C1 costs $6 at today's rate. Yet cost of gasoline in the usa today, is claimed to be 94cents per litre ... compared to France at $1.82 Pretty much, the US gasoline is half the price! Clearly, the end product cost is unrelated to the manufacturing cost (plus reasonable margin). Make of this what you will, but I do know that this situation has forced a lot of American people to burn diesel in their homes. Re improving burn efficiency (and therefore safety for your family). ALWAYS mix 0.5% to 1% acetone with the diesel. I think that 0.5% is perfectly fine. You are adding a highly combustible fuel ... but that is entirely insignificant. What counts is that the acetone reduces the surface tension of the diesel, causing it to vaporise better ... leading to improved combustion (hotter). Not only do you get more heat output (paying for the acetone, and more); but the fumes are cleaner AND the heater remains clean ... meaning ongoing clean burn, rather than a gradual degrading burn due to the build up of shite on the burner components. Take care, and keep your eyes open at all times. Best wishes .... :)
Very nice option, but you must install a chimney or steel flue. Also you will have wood management issues - buying it dry, storage, moving it into the house, cleaning out the cinders. A wood fire is obviously superior for simple pleasure ... but they take a lot of work ;)
The key elements are the fuel and the temperature of the burn. If your lantern is pump pressurised, and has a good gasification head & mantlr, the better the burn. These Tilly lamps are literally brilliant. If it is a traditional simple wick, it will be less efficient and create more fumes. ... but perhaps the fumes will be heavier, and will circulate less (just speculation). A lantern burns less fuel, and doesn't have a fan to blow the fumes into circulation. However, by buying the good quality paraffin, you will get the best burn that your lantern can deliver.
It depends upon the grade of oil. The lamp oil may simply be standard home heating oil / kerosene, sold expensively in small bottles. These inverter heaters are designed to burn a lighter grade of oil. They will burn kerosene, but with the associated issues, as described in the video.
Hi Davey :) I would try to find 'van life' forums, and search van heaters on YT and the web. It is a very popular subject, and there are sure to be some interesting solutions out there. Apparently, small chinese diesel heaters are often getting fitted. I'd experiment using C1 paraffin, instead of diesel. I'd also try adding 0.5% acetone to the fuel. In both cases the burn temp will increase, creating a cleaner burn. Make sure that you install air quality alarms. Also ensure that you have a good inlet airflow, and outlet. Ventilation is key. Another serious problem arises from the condensation between heat cycles. This can create mould in cavities, which gives off dangerous spores (that stink). Hence it is worth talking to those who have overcome these problems :)
@@EngineTuning Thank you for replying yes I’ll be mindful of fumes, as a child of the 50s and 60s I remember my parents using paraffin heaters with no adverse effects. Appreciate your advice Tnx
I've seen a few vids on the Zibro brand heaters and a few colleagues of mine have been getting them for savings on heating costs. They are all satisfied. But here's the thing: my mother used one in the past and I talked to her about it. I can recall it from when I was a child. Great little heater. But they got rid of it in the past because of the fumes. They'd be very prominent and rather irritating to the lungs and throat. Is this a common problem or only in the case of unrefined kerosene / wrong type of fuel? I can imagine the sulfur amount being higher 30-40 years ago than now. I plan to use high quality Kerosene in a simple wick heater Zibro. Should I get a laser type? I mean the wick type looks a lot easier to maintain plus lesser electronics so I'd guess more reliable. My intended use is to heat my 64m² living room instead my whole damn house. Sorry for the long comment just trying to be clear.
The thing is Nightingale ... the ideal comment should reflect the authors thinking. This means that the comment will be longer than a single sentence. We like it that way :) Overall, I would go for the more complex 'injector version'. I have both the wick, and injector types. ... and what I know, is that the injector type burns cleaner. Also, the heat can be adjusted (lower), while the burn remains clean. If you add acetone at 0.25% - 1% it burns even cleaner; even at the lowest setting (and this saves you money). I add acetone even with C1 grade fuel. If you are forced, through cost (or unavailability of C1 fuel), to use heating oil (kerosene)... I would strongly advise adding at least 0.25% of acetone to the kerosene. The lazer (inverter, injector) heaters benefit from fan blown air into the combustion chamber - increasing combustion temperature. Also, the fuel is metered to produce a leaner burn ... unlike the wick, which takes fuel on demand. The wick type are good, but the additional complexity pays dividends ... and they are reliable ;) Most of the problems arise from leaving it a year with old oil, or burning pure kerosene (which clogs the flame rod).
@@EngineTuning Hey ET, great video and good advice, thanks. Now that we might face gas shortages in the winter I jumped the gun and bought a Zibro LC 130. I also ordered some 20l of kerosene (suitable for heaters according to the seller). I'm not so sure that is suitable for indoor use so I requested the safety data sheet. Can you tell me what to look out for? I doubt I will find the British standard there. It is a German seller btw. I think I will get some aceton regardless.
@@vinnie3543 The fuel container will likely have a picture of an indoor heater on the wrapper, or stick on label. I can't speak for Germany, but in France, in the supermarkets & DIY stores, the containers are piled up on a pallet. Last winter, the fuel was cheaper than diesel, so I mixed 20 ltrs in the fuel tank of my Berlingo. When ordering, you must request 'indoor heater' fuel. Standard kerosene is a heater fuel, but for external exhaust. Either way, adding some acetone will improve the burn efficiency ;)
@@EngineTuning so the oil lamp won't give of any poisonous toxins when burning c1 Paraffin indoors? I always use lamp oil but it's really expensive getting.
@@johnn7614 My GUESS is that the lamp oil will be more toxic than C1. The only sure way of knowing, is seeing it's specification. C1 is highly refined, to remove toxins, and hence it is very thin/light. A reasonable test will be if the C1 burns brighter, than lamp oil. The pricing for lamp oil, is based upon what the market will accept. Maybe it has a few drops of scented oil added to it (to boost the price). ... but you could easily add such oils to the C1. Why not report back, after trying the C1? :)
I have no data on burning olive oil, but from a viscosity perspective, it wouldn't work in a heater. Some people process 'used vegetable oil', for use in diesel engines. If you fancy doing some chemistry, you should locate web sites specialising in that field, but I have no confidence in it working in a heater. Good luck, and thanks for raising the issue :)
Thanks for your advice 👍 . Im still going to try a little bit of diesel but after watching this i will do a proper test to see how i feel... if theres a smell or my eyes burn etc . . If i have any doubts il take your advice and just source cheeper premium grade paraffin 👍
@@BillSikes.its also higher octane. Heating oil/kero is one thing but diesel? In a paraffin heater? Ah lads come on now. A bit of cop on. Comment aimed at @goldenegg1063 not you.
Does anyone know the ratio of paraffin to kerosene to make "lamp oil" Class III-A? You can just buy lamp oil but It would seem to be a few bucks cheaper to mix my own. crack a window yo? The proof of what Mr Tuning is saying is in the furnace filter after a winter. Home owners should put a duct on the cold air return to draw in some fresh air from outside,if you want to burn fuel in the house regularly. Don't be Silly, all aspects of fire is dangerous and should be treated with respect accordingly.
I'd go for acetone as a mix with your fuel - paraffin or kerosene. It breaks down the surface tension of the oil, allowing superior vaporisation. This gives a cleaner, and slightly hotter burn. As a result, it will keep the system cleaner, and will logically produce cleaner fumes. Only tiny amounts are needed - even a quarter of a percent makes a big difference. I'm running with 1% acetone this winter, but I have a local source, where 5 litres costs €15. 5 litres treats 500 litres of fuel at 1%, so the cost is insignificant, and the gains are substantial. If you have a cheap source of alcohol, you could certainly try it in your mix. It will be a bit like adding petrol to diesel in winter, for easier starting and more power. Take it steady though. 5% to fuel oil might give very good results. But first start with acetone, and check the flame colour. If you have a pistol temp reader, you could remove the front grill and get a reading off the flue at a known burn condition, then repeat with your chosen mix, and try with alcohol. :)
The immediate danger is CO2 - there is risk of death. CO2 rises as the oxygen in the house or room is burned with the fuel. If you do not have a CO2 sensor... ensure that there is ventilation. Be aware of sleepiness, headaches etc. CO2 is odourless, and colourless... so be careful. Thereafter, the risk is dependent upon the fuel that you are using. 1. Highly refined - for NON-VENTED systems (an individual heater in the room) 2. Less refined - for VENTED systems (has a flue or chimney) There are also fuel oils that are not intended to be burnt as heating oil. Diesel, Jet Fuel. The problem is that these oils may contain additives that are required by the engine (or jet). For all oils - in an individual heater - you breathe the combustion fumes. So you have a choice. Breathe combustion fumes that have almost no toxic substances - they were refined out of the oil. Or Breathe combustion fumes that have high levels of toxic substances - they were NOT refined out of the oil, because the fumes are meant to be carried outside by a chimney (or a car exhaust pipe).
Short answers. Kero heaters. You can safely burn red dyed off road kero if you have modern fiberglass wicks. Use an O2 detector and common sense. If it smokes the fuel or wick is old/dirty.
Er Gerard ... did you actually watch the video? Did you download the specs? Did you think before posting? Your channel is devoid of all activity. Nobody knows you from Adam, nor why you would post your bizarre and obviously incorrect safety advice. What are your motives here? A 'paid for' troll perhaps? Or just a lost soul spreading misinformation?
That's a valuable cautionary tale. Don't mess with petrol ;) If you are forced to use kerosene ... add a small quantity of acetone - 1 to 2% is fine to achieve a hotter, cleaner burn.
The link to the spec is in the description (show more) :) Table 1 is C1 is for non-vented heater (highly refined oil) Table 2 is C2 is for vented heater (home heating oil)
Yes for sure... but breathing the products of combustion, is what we've been doing since we discovered fire. If you live in a major city, you'll breath worse fumes than from a C1 grade paraffin heater. This video is providing realistic advice that helps keep people safe
@Bob Mule I found a test on a page, where they claimed to have the biggest wick selection in the world, and they claimed there were almost no accident ever recorded with kerosene heaters. I don't see what could go wrong with them honestly!
Hahahah! What you can do is, modify the playback speed. 1.25 will work for just about every video. Some are okay @ 1.5. These days, if I make a video, I always do some speed mods. Back then, I simply recorded everything on the fly. :)
Hahaha! I'm afraid that there is no action in this video ... and it IS all talking. Never mind ... there are loads of action vids on TH-cam. Thanks anyway, for dropping by and having a look (and posting a comment) :)
Use the fuel recommended by the heater manufacture.
Hahahah!
Yes ... sort of :)
The problem is two-fold .
1) There may be no regional supply of the recommended fuel.
2) The recommendation of a fuel, is based upon a business deal ... the fuel must be correct, but it doesn't have to be the cheapest.
This is why it is a good idea to understand standards.
It is also why different oil companies choose to use different standards ... to prevent public comprehension :)
@@EngineTuning , Correct. But people using diesel & jet fuel in these heaters are asking for trouble. We don't have many choices here either but !K kerosene is available almost everywhere.
Modern kerosene stoves with wick essentially also act as a catalyst. After combustion, what remains is only carbon dioxide, i.e. the same as what humans exhale. We are talking about for K-1 type kerosene that is sold in the United States and meets the specifications for indoor use. There is also this type of kerosene in Europe, of course it is expensive, but worth it.
@@steveashcraft718 The "jet fuel" is kerosene.
@@greenghost6416 , that's what I thought. Thanks for clarifying that. Since it's jet fuel should be a lot better than gas station kerosene.
i see a lot of negative comments on this video when all this man is trying to say is help your health. paraffin heaters always recommend using in a ventilated area to get rid of carbon monoxide. Some people do get affected more then others when it comes to the smell of paraffin. people dye of paraffin heaters because they use the wrong fuel such as dyed kerosene or that they haven't ventilated the area. Paraffin heaters are as safe as any other heat source if they are used in the right way. Although i believe that most that is said in this video should be common sense but the fact is, he has made this video to try save lifes.
Who has died of using the wrong grade of kerosene, dyed or other? Where did you get this information?
I always have a dual fire/ carbon detector no matter where I live/ car/ camper/ tent / home. Haven't needed it except for some burnt beans once. But prevention safety counts. PS I agree with you
Just bought an Corona inverter heater.....and a supply of C1 paraffin ...I am so glad I found your channel
A lot of useful information in this video. I feel that I have learnt something in just over thirteen minutes. Very well presented and not rushed makes it easy to follow and digest.
Thanks Robert for that comment.
The concept of 'learning a complex subject in under 3 minutes' is almost always a fail.
Anyway... I've never been able to make such videos.
Thankfully there are people who still like to get a reasonable understanding of a subject.
There is reason for hope :)
Thanks for very useful advice. I used to run a parafin heater on my boat but now I refuse to pay the extortionate parafin price on principle. No boat now, so I've been using the same parafin heater in my conservatory with heating oil (80p litre) and window open. Though I've just installed one of the chinese deisel heaters in there, again run on heating oil and it's brilliant. I've actually got three of the parafin stoves, two with wicks, one electric and tried them all with heating oil. Good good clean burns with no smell when going. Wick ones will be treasure if we get power cuts, though I have installed a carbon monoxide alarm. Thanks again for alerting us of the danger.
Brilliant explanation of what and more importantly why we should be using the highest grade fuel for our health thank you.
Just got given our first kerosene heater, makes perfect sense to use only the highly refined fuel in a machine without a chimney, good advice, cheers
This is a great video and gives some superb tips on the correct fuel to burn....Basically this guy could save you life if you follow his advise. Burning the incorrect fuel indoors could lead to death...Thanks for posting
Thanks for the support, and for subscribing.
Please continue to support 'help channels' (like mine) by subscribing to any that help you.
TH-cam now require all channels to be above 1000 subscribers (if they are to receive any help).
This could easily kill off many of the channels that we might need in the future.
Thanks again :)
Thank you for this very informative video. I heat with paraffin and only ever use high grade.
I’ve got an addiction to hurricane and old pressure lanterns and I recently bought an old valour stove, I didn’t understand the difference between c1 & c2 thanks for sharing this very informative vid. I’ll be using C1.
Thanks for dropping by Tony :)
Thankyou for taking the time to produce this video. I'm about to start using a paraffin heater in a small space and I'm doing my homework. This is good info here.
Be careful in small enclosed spaces.
You will definitely need some ventilation.
Good luck with your studies :)
thank you for your research i was thinking on mixing my fuel but not now ill buy Kerosene and nothing else to use in my Kerosene heater
Great video. I'm looking for a good cost-effective way of keeping a big conservatory/ home office warm in the winter and this seems like a good option. Very informative about the classes of paraffin. I prefer the idea of using paraffin oil to bottled gas heaters.
Thanks for that feedback Grant.
I'm very pleased to have helped :)
Sure helps decrease moisture in the room even with ventilation.
The highly refined kerosene in the US is called 1-K. I have found it to be entirely smoke free and with a very muted odor compared to the kerosene I remember from many years ago. The problem is how freaking expensive it is right now, so it's emergency heat only at this time. Texas dodged a bullet *this time.*
Excellent discussion of safety factors. I very much appreciated this content.
Thank you for posting.
Very informative for the safety of indoor burners. Thank you for sharing. I've just bought 2 paraffin heaters and wanted to know all of this info.
Could put a link up from where you bought them please.
Yes. Using the right fuel if there’s no exhaust for the fumes, is very important.
The highest quality we can get in Canada is 1K kerosene. .burns cleanly. .a little smelly on start up and shut down. .so I do this outdoors
Thanks for that comment hamish.
I researched 1k specifications - ASTM D3699 - 18a.
Annoyingly, they are hidden behind a paywall ... $48 to see.
This is not very helpful, when a consumer is looking to determine the safety of a product.
However, a summary is listed here www.cenex.com/~/media/cenex/files/fuels/data%20sheets%20and%20brochures/k-2%20kerosene.ashx
It's not a great summary, but it's the best that I've found, and it is VERY interesting.
The flash point is listed at 37.7 C (100 F)
Wow!
If this is true (see below), it means that both 1k and 2k grades are highly volatile.
On a very hot summers day, they will emit flammable gasses (like say petrol).
It seems hard to believe, but perhaps it is refined so highly to counter the extreme sub zero temperatures experienced in Canada.
But even still; in a home environment, the house would rarely be so cold.
To put this in context, the burner pre-heater need only warm the fuel to 38 C in order to create a gas, compared to C1 56 C.
That is confusing as you state that it fumes on start up, unless the pre-heater only heats to 38 C.
Again, if true, these fuels would have an extremely high energy content, and burn very hot.
Note also, that once running, the room temperature will be no different to that in Europe.
Hmmmm!
My belief is that different test methods have been used.
There are two basic types of flash point measurement: open cup and closed cup.
These different test procedures produce wildly different outcomes.
In this respect, different standards cannot be compared.
This differential is often used in published oil specs, to prevent the consumer from choosing their oil based upon which is the best (leaving that goal in the hands of the marketing departments).
Note the mix of F & C temp measurements :(
Also note that dangerous element content is not listed ... only sulfur, that concerns smell.
Therefore, overall we learn very little from the privately provided summary.
What a shame.
Does anybody fancy blowing $48 ?
www.astm.org/Standards/D3699.htm
:)?
The only "Avgas" most people would be able to get their hands on is for petrol aircraft piston engines, and is one of the only LEADED fuels still available in the UK, so that's a bad idea even in a petrol stove.
In the UK the main three "Heating oils" are diesel, kerosene, and paraffin, and they're all part of the same group of light oils....... But that DOESN'T mean they're interchangeable !
Diesel (Be it red or white) is the dirtiest of the trio. There's not as much crud in this as there used to be, but it can still have some pretty nasty stuff in it, and you really don't don't want to be burning this in anything that doesn't have a sealed combustion chamber with a chimney, and some form of heat exchanger to get heat into your room. The down side of this is that most heaters with a heat exchanger also have electric fans, and that could be an issue for an emergency heat source for if the lights go out. The chemicals added to make this stuff suitable for piston engines will also clog the wick of most oil heaters that use one. Because of this, it's only really usefull for industrial type heaters that burn an atomised mist of fuel, with either an enclosed burn chamber and flue, or diesel space heaters that are being used in a large industrial setting with a constant loss ventilation (Ie, the sort of place with a big open roller door that's letting heat and fumes out all the time the heaters going to be running). you can add things to prevent wick clogging (Like the "Diesel conditioner" you put in diesel engined equipment before laying it up for a length of time, or some people say running (IIRC) an approximately 1 to 50 mix of isopropyl alcohol and diesel stops this from happening), but I've never tried any of these tricks, and personally, it feels stupid to add yet more chemicals to a fuel that's already laced with a fair few. The benefits of diesel is that it's available EVERYWHERE. If you make friends with a local car scrap yard, you may even be able to buy cheap diesel from them that's had to be syphoned from cars before being crushed.
The next is Kerosene. In the UK, this is not the same stuff as what Americans call Kerosene. Here in the UK it's intended as a heating oil. it's again best to be burnt in a heater that has an enclosed burn chamber, a heat exchanger, and flue, but if you need to use it in a open air heater, it's going to be significantly less harmful for you than using diesel intended for road use. Just make sure that you get a heater that's more powerful than you need, because you're going to want some ventilation if using this stuff. It won't clog wicks on oil burners that use them, but it can leave a pretty strong smell if burn in things like inefficient oil lamps or "Patio/greenhouse" type heaters. If bought in 4 or 5lL bottles it can be pretty expensive, but bought in bulk It can be significantly cheaper than road diesel, but most bulk suppliers have a 500L minimum order, so buying and storing that much can be a bit of a hurdle if you just want some for an emergency heater for if there's a power cut.
Last we have paraffin. This is annoyingly also available in different grades, and some suppliers have their own non quantifiable terminology for their grades (Words like "Premium Quality" or "High Purity" often have no bearing on what's inside the packaging). As this guy says, what you want to look at is if it's grade "C1" or "C2". C2 is pretty much just a cleaner kerosene that's sold at an inflated price. If burnt in an open flame heater it will usually give off a bit of smell, but unless you have a small room with next to no ventilation it's unlikely to give you any major health worries if you're only using it a few times a year when your homes main heating isn't an option. C1 is the best option for open flame heaters and lamps. it leaves little soot on lamp chimneys, and if it really IS C1, it shouldn't really smell. You may get an odour from it when the burners first lit and put out, but that should stop pretty quickly with a well setup heater. C2 is often sold at places like garden centres as patio or greenhouse heater oil. It's not cheap, but it's more convenient than trying to work out what to do with 500L or kerosene ! C1 can be really expensive if bought in the 4 or 5L containers, but some oil suppliers get it in 1000L IBC containers, and meter it out into your own jerry can. It's still not cheap, but it's cheaper than the 1l lamp oll bottles it's commonly sold in.
One thing to mention about ANY open flame heater is that if consumes oxygen (I know, blinding flash of the obvious there. :D). But most people don't realise how much air they actually consume. in a small room with minimal ventilation and a small open flame heater, it can only take a few hours before the thing can lower the oxygen level to the point where you feel tired. After that you may start getting a headache. There's been many near misses and deaths from people using open flame heating in modern houses (Old houses were drafty as hell, but modern one's tend to be pretty well sealed up, where the gaps around doors and windows are all plugged up with rubber strips). Personal opinion is that if you want to get yourself an oil heater, get something more powerful than you need, and always have a couple of windows cracked open an inch or two. That may sound counter productive, but just doing this will move the air around a bit, and bring more than enough fresh oxygen into the room. On top of that, have a google and find a medical website you trust, and look up the stages of asphyxia/suffocation. Being able to recognise the early warnings could save your life.
That's a good overview Reman.
Thanks for taking the time to put it together, and sharing it :)
Thanks for the video. You made me feel better about just using the kerosene and not trying to burn #2 fuel or jet fuel. I think I'll just enjoy my kerosene and not poison myself
Wise move Jack :)
Very interesting & answered all my questions on what to buy. Thank you! 😊
Thank's for the feedback Linda :)
5 year old video, but brilliant advice and thank you.
Great video mate, thanks, I didn't realise the differences would be so big
Thanks Stuart, for taking the time to comment :)
Due to the energy crisis in the Netherlands I have bought the cheap stuff before i knew the facts. The seller told me it's fine, but I'm already having trouble after 2 weeks of usage. The only problem is that I have quite some of the cheap stuff. Do I have to get rid of all of it, or could I combine the manufacturers petroleum with the cheap stuff together when filling the heater?
Understanding the financial difficulties in life...
Mixing and adding acetone, is the way forward.
Buy 5 litres of acetone from a diy store, and add 10ml acetone per litre of fuel (1%) .
This is an extremely cost effective way to improve the burn temperature, and therefore gain more heat. Plus, the improved burn will keep the system clean(er).
Check around for the cheapest, indoor fuel (no flue and typically showing a picture of a paraffin heater on the container - typically 20lt).
Prices have doubled from last year, in France.
It used to be €1 per litre, and now it is €2 per litre.
(it's a con ... most of the cost is tax)
There are 3 grades, defined by aroma.
Typically €40, €45, €50 for 20lt.
If you are mixing with kerosene, then there is no point in buying anything but the cheapest.
So check around.
With the acetone, you should be able to turn it down a bit, but make sure that it is burning with a blue flame, as this indicates a clean burn.
You must have ventilation - be aware of feeling drowsy, or weeping eyes.
The problem I have is. I bought a kerosene heater not knowing too much but assuming it would be cheaper. I bought regular kerosene, which said it was high grade blah, blah. But it was just the regular stuff and made the house stink. So I bought clear lamp oil. Thing is, this costs me about 70p per hour to run. Plus replacing the wicks etc An electric heater would cost me about that too, so I'm not sure that it's worth running the kerosene heater. I think it's handy to have as an alternative or emergency option. I also have. kerosene lamp. So that would be handy in power cuts, grid down situations etc. Also I can cook and boil water on top of it which is handy. If I could find cheaper clear kerosene it would be worth it, but not at the cheapest price I can currently find. Which is about £3.60 per litre.
£3.60 per litre is not correct, for when buying in 20lt quantities.
You should carry out some research on fuel supply sources.
I doubt very much that it is more expensive than diesel.
Although it is more refined, it has reduced tax, due to it being home heating fuel.
£3.60 sounds like profiteering.
@@EngineTuning I had a quick look and I think I found another cheaper supplier. I don't think I can post links on here as my last message isn't showing. This place sells "odourless kerosene" for £60 per 25l. Don't need to pay VAT if used for heating. So that seems a bit more in line with what you were saying pal. So that would cost me about 48p per hour, which is getting better.
@@tqdesign9288 So the £60 includes VAT, meaning that the price will drop?
There are three grades of odourless, so the price could be par.
RE links, you can post youtube links, but for external you can disguise the link by dropping the https prefix, and saying DOT instead of '.'
@@EngineTuning I think you are right there. It does include the VAT in the £60, but hopefully I can get it removed from the bill as it's for heating. Their website says there isn't VAT if it's for heating. So at this price it comes in at about half the price of running my electric heater. I'm thinking through winter, once it starts getting to freezing temps, to just put my central heating on for a couple of hours each morning to prevent the pipes freezing. Then use a small kerosene heater upstairs and one downstairs to heat the house for the rest of the time.
Great video! Wish there were more INTELLECTUAL comments and Information like this one. ***** EXCELLENT VIDEO🏅
Thanks for those kind words Doc :)
@@EngineTuning can you do a video on these people who burn diesel?
I've never been in a situation where I have had to burn diesel.
However, a comparison might be useful.
At the moment, I'm tied up, but I can't rule it out.
:)
I've got an old Aladdin Blue Flame Series 25, I've been using it for the last 4 years, I run it on standard heating oil straight from the pump at a petrol station near where I live, it's kept us warm on the coldest of winter nights, but I'd never use it without a carbon monoxide monitor, incidentally the monitor has never gone above 8ppm and only then on occasions it normally sits a zero, the nose is the best indicator, if it stinks something is wrong, usually dirty wick or contaminated fuel ie water in it,
"if it stinks something is wrong,"
This is true for the presence of pollutants, but definitely not for the imbalance of oxygen.
This is due to the available oxygen being used up by the combustion process - ventilation is required.
Regarding pollutants ... the vid explains this clearly enough, and it is easily understood.
... if you burn a pure alcohol everything is burned ... you are only using oxygen - there are no dangerous particulates remaining in the combustion fumes.
As you proceed down the refining grades, the oil becomes less volatile.
This requires higher combustion temperatures to consume the pollutants.
However, the heater is what it is.
For portable heaters, the combustion fumes are vented into the enclosed living space (regardless of ventilation).
Be aware that these heaters WILL burn lower grade (less refined) oil - say high grade heating oil, that when burned, must be vented outside via an installed flue.
With an externally vented flue, there is no need to use highly refined oil, so the oil is cheaper, because it is siphoned off at an earlier stage of refinement.
Ha!
If you think that is bad ... these heaters will burn oil that is even less refined; or oil that has additives to assist with engine combustion/operation.
If that's all you can get (or afford) ... be aware of the risks, particularly if you have children.
Try to ameliorate the situation, with a regular full vent of the room (open the window and a door) ... you will immediately notice the difference with your eyes and drowsiness.
Also be aware, that with heating oil and lower, the heater must be dismantled and cleaned after each winter (or also mid way through the cold season).
This is your balancing 'labour payment' for the cheaper fuel ;)
(Once done, it is very quick and easy - see th-cam.com/video/VC-5657JLhU/w-d-xo.html )
The other cost factor is that the highly refined paraffin C1 grade oil produces 10% more heat per unit, over C2 grade heating oil (and correspondingly more over the lower grades).
This means that if heating oil is 10% cheaper ... it is in fact the same price (but with more dangerous pollutants).
If it is 20% cheaper ... it is only 10% cheaper and you get the pollutants, and you must also pay extra with your labour).
There is no free lunch ;)
Also note that the C1 grade paraffin allows the heat to be turned down without creating more pollutants ... keeping you acceptably warm without wasting fuel by overheating.
(wasted heat is wasted money - 10% overheating plus the 10% less calorific value and you've just blown your 20% saving ... to gain more pollutants, and a regular heater strip)
I don't cast aspersions, or sit on a high horse - there are plenty of visitors to this channel that get the oil that they can get ... it is all about being aware, and doing your best to look after your family (who will be relying on you).
Hence why I recommend, if at all possible, to locate the cheapest source of the highest grade fuel.
Buy in advance, and buy in bulk, and make sure that you check the specs before handing over the cash - the fuel salesman can, and often will, tell you what you want to hear ;)
Remember ... the laws of physics always apply
... but I know that we do, what we must do, to stay warm :)
Thanks for the info, they do sell C1 at my petrol station but it's £35 for 20lte, at the moment I'm paying 75p for a litre of C2 heating oil, when I first got my Aladdin it was 45p a litre, but so far in the last few years we've had no ill effects from using standard boiler juice, switching to C1, would be more expensive than using our storage heaters, which incidentally are useless, hence the reason we're using the old paraffin heater
I can't answer the comment from a knowledgeable health perspective.
I'm an engineer, and I am taking a punt on the fact (?) that the British Standards were created by other engineers who did their best to document the pollutants arising from the combustion of lower refined oils.
Also, their conclusions are logical ... the more refined, the less shit that remains in the oil, and the hotter it burns.
As for the business economics ... for sure, the price difference is entirely unfair.
The cost difference between siphoning off the oil earlier grade, cannot equate to the enormous price difference.
... evidently, this difference is a rip off.
However, it is what it is ... you pay your money and make your choice.
Personally, I look for the cheapest source of the highest grade fuel.
I've found that there is always a cheaper supply, cos they are still making money.
Unlike typical goods, we have specs.
So, you are not paying more, to get higher refinement.
You establish the specs first, and then pay the minimum that you can.
Obviously, you can choose to disbelieve the specs, and believe that all oil (thick or thin) is the same ... but the cleaning regime proves otherwise, and the rest is simple arithmetic.
Ships burn bunker fuel ... effectively the very last grade - the bottom of the barrel.
Incredibly toxic, they burn over 100 tons per day !!!!!!
The vid does not present a political message; rather, it is pure information.
You might use that information, to find the cheapest source of fuel that you need OR to take care, when burning an oil that might not be good for you in the long term.
Obviously, if you don't have kids, it's not a problem.
Just talk it over with the missus, and come to an agreement :)
One more point ... £35 for 20 litres is a total fail.
last year, in France I bought 20 litres for around €17 .... maybe 15 quid!
Therefore, I believe that the £35 is a joke price, and not really applicable for serious people.
Why not take the usual option, and find the cheapest source?
Have you ever bought a sandwich at a petrol station?
Ha!
The better option would be to spend two minutes grabbing some food from the fridge (almost free food in comparison).
It's a no brainer.
You don't stock up for winter, by buying from a convenience store.
They are just for emergencies ... and you are made to pay for 'not being prepared'.
Is that fair comment?
@@EngineTuning great job setting it straight!
I think if he wrote a book the preface would reach 1000 pages!
Thanks for those kind words heirloomseeder :)
Thanks for the info, very good point.. these people burning diesel have no idea what the by products are. Those would be better suited to a barn or outdoor shop of some kind.
Yes Chris ... unless you find yourself in desperate straits, I think that you are right.
Thank you very much for that grade information and making this video
thankyou
Thank you for this very informative content.
If I make biodiesel myself from waste vegetable restaurant oils that should be ok to burn inside if I achieve good combustion, right?
My opinion is that it will not be safe.
Buy some high quality paraffin refined for indoor heaters.
Check how it is a very light oil ... you can barely call it an oil, because it is so well refined.
Compare it to your biodiesel.
There is no way that it will burn clean.
Remember ... the little diesel heaters that people fit into mobile homes ... they have an exhaust pipe that must be routed outside.
The reason for this is that the exhaust fumes will kill you.
Stay safe, and keep your family safe.
I dont have a kerosene heater...yet. Im learning. If I understand this correctly 1k kerosene combustion products are safe to breath assuming the heater is operating properly. The greatest issue to health is CO and CO2 build up in the indoor air which is easily solved with proper ventilation. Correct?
Yes ...
Adequate ventilation is necessary.
This is the case for all flame based internal heat.
Traditional fires tend to be self regulating, in that they simply won't burn without significant ventilation.
The arrival of sealed double glazed windows killed off the coal burning hearth in the UK - they literally couldn't function.
I have mine in the space of a removed hearth.
This seems quite effective as it provides low ventilation.
I presume that most of the heat rises and fills the room, but some will rise through the chimney, taking with it the heavier CO's.
The fresh air will be sucked in naturally, due to the ancient design of the house.
Thank you for both your response and video. I watched it several times trying to find a loophole but didn't. After viewing a number of vids demonstrating the use of diesel as a cheaper alternative fuel to kerosene I was tempted. My problem is that eventhough I live a few miles from one of the largest oil fields in North America, kerosene is strangely unavailable or ridiculously expensive (by local standards). Several "box stores" are selling 1K at $2.60/L which is high considering gasoline sells for less than
$.50/L here currently. Diesel is 1/4th cost of 1K at $0.65/L and is widely available. See the temptation? After a search I've located a seller of 1K at $1/L not so far away which makes the kerosene heater viable as a backup heat source. I use a natural gas central unit primarily but in the event of an outage I'd be stuck; plus, its old.
Well done for tracking down a better supplier :)
... it's cheaper than we pay in Europe.
Clearly it is still a rip off due to excessive taxes and profiteering
... but don't forget that the 1k will burn hotter, so you will get more bang for your buck (compared to basic kerosene)
... and the heat will not be laced with toxic substances.
:)
I have a Corona wick heater, I usually fire it up and then turn it down once it starts burning hot. Is it better to run it close to full or turn it down low for efficiency and clean burn. Also how often do you replace the wick, I have had mine a year now but just wondering how long they last.
I have one also, though I've not used it for some years.
When turning down the wick, there is a point where you can see that combustion isn't perfect, and more odour will be produced.
If you have the wick burn efficiently, it will produce a gas, and it is the gas that burns (not the wick) ... at least, that's the theory :)
Cheers, mine seems to be working well so far, if I turn it down too quickly it does sputter a bit but the heat picks up again and it glows hot. I like the glow of the wick ones but cant find much info on how long the wicks last, I suppose I will know when it needs replacing as the heater won’t burn properly.
@@lordtoady1528 yeah, you'll know :)
But they last a long time, if they burn right.
Here in Belgium two types of petroleum (Kerosine). You can buy two types at the petrol station.
One for household about 15 cent/liter which should according to specification good enough for heating ygood in house. However it wil l break a laser heating. To much dust and other garbage in it. fuel nosle and pump will get clogged. But according to Shell it should be useful for laser petrol heater. We contacted them because the heater broke. According to the producer of qlima you should only use their petrol because its more refined/filtered. Their cost 30 euro/20 liter is 1.50 euro per liter. Lately we bought petrol from special shops not at the pump for laser (not qlima) but after time it also broke the heater. So I asume a wick heater is a better choice. Anyway very good video
Yeah, in France you can pay €30 but some stores sell it for €22 .
The cheaper 'home heating" oil typically clogs the flame rod.
I made a video on how to fix this problem :)
@@EngineTuning thanks that will be helpfull
@@rudolfr178 We use PTX 2000 here in France, at the moment it's about 20 euros for 20 litres. Being using a sre co 30x electric heater for six years, just starting to get a e4 code, hence finding this channel. Never used the high quality parrafin such as zipro, though it might be slightly more refined,at 50% extra cost we have stuck with PTX 2000.
@@guysmith3146 We use a qlima, at first we used their brand of petroleum. But found a cheaper solution taking petroleum from the station. In here they have two kinds.
Red petroleum not for home use and another suitable for home use heating etcetera.
However after six months the our laser petroleum heater stopped working.
No garanty reapair 70 euro. I think those laser petroleum heaters are more sensitive for this. The old types with a wick think they are less sensitive. But I have no experience with them. Just an antique one from before first world war. Still working but smoking awfull (Wick is finished). Started it up after 100 years standing at the attic. Simple construction but still works.
Thanks so much for answering the question I could never find a definitive answer for for my new inverter heater. I will only use C1 paraffin in it. Now to try and find a supplier in the Northwest UK. I've found 20L for £33 at ryeoil if you know better I'd be very grateful of a nudge. Now I'll go and look at your service videos. Thanks!
I don't know Jonno.
Fuel prices are going crazy now - I just paid €1.80 per litre of diesel!!!!
Last time I looked (before the war) - 20lt of paraffin was €22 - around £19.
If the shops with stocks haven't put their prices up, then a lot of people will begin to augment their diesel with paraffin ;)
@@EngineTuning Thanks for the reply. Shame I'm not in France, your stuff there is a lot more affordable BUT I'm happy with how many days I'm getting out of my heater on save mode.
Hello ,
If you can help me please , i have an Kero SRE3001 heater and when i want to start it E6 error apears.
Do you have any ideas what is it for ?
Sorry for my english..
I bought one of these for emergencies. Kerosene is not sold state wide. The LPG heaters cost more. A lot more if you try to find one with equivalent BTUs the big Kerosene heaters put out and they dont come with the hoses and other hardware so your buying that separately. Then the issue of storing the propain tanks. I don't have a shed and it's a horrible death if it leaks. I plan to run diesel in it. I can keep 5 gallons in my spare storage bedroom over winter and in the late spring if I don't end up needing it dump it into a waste oil collection bin at a automotive center so I'm not ever dealing with old degraded fuel and not be out a bunch of money.
It is always good to be prepared for winter
... or simply 'be prepared' :)
@@EngineTuning fuel and energy costs are going to go up 100s of % this winter in much of Europe. 1st world nations going back to the dark ages. Civil unrest will come. The political order no longer coincide with the economic order. Here, it is much the same but the people know that foreign powers of Russia do not dictate to us the cost of fuel. North America can produce enough energy to supply itself, Europe and have plenty left over. The Greta Thunbergs of the world have been shut off no longer invited on television or to give speeches at the UN. In November a day of reckoning will come much of my governments power will be stripped, hobbling its ability to cause more damage. But we have a few more years until it dies off and we can start repairing the damage. We are in bad times
@@lampshadesoapmaker678 We are in very bad times.
It certainly seems that success has bred confidence of action, without restriction, nor retribution.
The big 'game plays' are purposefully devastating........
Oh!
BTW ... As long as you keep the lid on the fuel, it will be good for a very long time.
If you open the container, and use say half, then you could decant the remaining fuel to a smaller container, or containers.
Just don't forget to mark up the containers, vis a vis their contents, and date.
The key is to minimise oxygen, within the container.
If you are using 20 litres in a winter season...
The growing oxygen content doesn't matter.
One of the main problems is water at the bottom of the newly purchased fuel.
In a clear container, it can be seen.
Many people buy a water filtering funnel, and decant the new fuel into the previous container.
Acetone, not only raise fuel burn temperature; but also helps mix any humidity with the fuel.
This enables the moisture to be evaporated during the burn, with no negative consequences.
Note that this works extremely well with diesel and petrol engines ;)
Apparently Myth Busters proved that this wasn't so.
Hahahah!
Just try 0.5% acetone to fuel.
Know approximately the fuel quantity in your tank.
Then, mix up a jerry can of extra fuel, with acetone added, to create a mix of 0.5% acetone.
Note: Adding more acetone doesn't really help.
You can add 1% or 2% (even more) without any problems.
It's just that 0.5% does the job (and is financially beneficial).
Meaning that you get more power from each liter, so you use less fuel.
... and your engine burns cleaner.
Acetone is likely one of the main ingredients in the expensive fuels that you can now buy in some service stations.
Anyway ... switch the engine on; and then add the acetone laced fuel from the jerry can.
Listen to the engine note change, as the laced fuel hits the combustion chamber :D
@@EngineTuning I fired up my new heater the big 23K BTU units the shape of a drum and just used straight diesel. My home smelled like a truck stop on start up and shut down. Not horrible as my dad is a truck driver and it is a familiar smell. No smell while it's running just maybe the smell of hot metal if you put your head over it. Ran it for maybe 2 hours and theirs slight tar buildup on the fiberglass wick. Which is fine as these fiberglass wicks are self cleaning if you keep it lit until it runs out of fuel. That stuff will burn off. It has instructions on how to do this that came with the unit. The flame is not as high as it should be. I'll burn this tank out and try the acetone maybe it'll thin out the fuel. The unit did heat my entire home anyways and did not produce fumes. Worked great it's just a giant center draft oil lantern and the light it puts off was comforting. I have cheap natural gas I heat with but last November my furnace broke and I went without heat for 4 days due to supply chain issues waiting for parts. Everything is a supply chain isse go to the grocery store and the shelves are always empty like the Soviet Union or something.
Hello. I have the zibro R18 E heater ,. When I use it , it puts out a smell, then you can't use it , also it doesn't seem to put out much heat, I was told they give out a lot of heat,. Tks
Pump out the old fuel from the fixed reservoir.
Clean the flame rod (see my other video dismantling).
Add fresh fuel.
Good luck!
:)
@@EngineTuning hello. Tks for the quick response, I'll look into what your saying, should it smell much, and should it give out much heat, I would be using it in the house,
@@martinmorgan8475 Upon first ignition from cold; a puff of smoke is ejected.
This is because at the moment of combustion, the temp is too low.
It is just one puff of smoke.
I take a bin bag, and hold it over the grill (when it begins clicking).
The bag fills with smoke.
I close it, and empty it outside.
The stove will kick out around 3 KW of heat.
That's hot!
@@EngineTuning hello. Can you tell me more about the electric inverter one you have, What's the advantage over it and the older one. Thanks
@@martinmorgan8475 The wick systems smell when you extinguish the flame.
The injector systems smell when you ignite the flame.
:)
There is one more fuel above C1 and its called ROLF - "Reduced Order Liquid Fuel" it's completely clear and does not smell - looks like water - its so good that you never have to remove carbon from the wick...wicks can last 1000's of hours with this fuel - absolutely no paraffiny smell at all - as a matter of fact the carbon on the wicks is mainly down to the die they add to the paraffin - it used to be able to be bought in bulk a few years ago, so was economical then not so now .
meant to say - "Reduced Odour Liquid Fuel"
@@metalworker007 Nice comment :)
In Europe it is generally available alongside C1 grade ... so for 20 ltr around €32 against €22.
Can u run these on Red diesel, as it's around £1.20 a litre at the moment but C1 paraffin is over £2 a litre and Heating oil/kerosene around £1.70. I only ever need around 50l a month during winter and looking to save some money.
Everything is as stated in the video.
It is evident that heating fuel prices are over taxed.
C1 should be no more expensive than Red.
If you wish to use diesel as a safe heating fuel, you need a flue or exhaust based system.
Problem with mine, unable to have a blue flame. Even on the verge of extinction I still have a yellow side.
When restarting the heater with last years fuel still in it, you can expect problems like this.
Add 1% acetone to the fuel on each refill.
If this doesn't cure the problem, then you will need to watch my video on how to service the heater
th-cam.com/video/VC-5657JLhU/w-d-xo.html
:)
Bonjour, mon Tosai SRE 301 me donne un code erreur H36, ce serait filtre a air bloqué, je l'ai démonté mais je ne vois pas de filtre a air, quelqu'un pourrait m'aider ?
The air filter is a simple mesh, that allows the free flow of air.
It's roll is to filter larger particles such as hair, wool, cotton etc.
It is fixed into the case, at the rear or side.
Any advice Welcome
I have a Zibro LC-400 heater however after a minute or so it will cut out with a E-11 code ( Ventilation) I’ve even tried the unit outside and still cuts out with E-11 code.
I haven't come across an E11 code before.
You've identified it as 'ventilation' ... this could mean it is a CO2 warning ie. ventilation required.
As you have tested the heater outside (nice!),the likelihood is that, if it is a CO2 sensor warning ... the sensor either requires calibration, or it has simply failed.
I have already covered the solution to both these eventualities:
th-cam.com/video/djHI69lIcxo/w-d-xo.html
As you can see from the comments; in most cases, re-calibration works perfectly.
However, if you are unlucky (like I was) then you will need to bridge the sensor, and install a stand alone sensor.
If this latter fix does not work, then you can unbridge the sensor, as the code must mean something else.
In that case ... follow the standard cleaning procedure as outlined here:
th-cam.com/video/VC-5657JLhU/w-d-xo.html
... then suck out the old fuel, and start the heater with a fresh batch.
Ideally begin with high quality grade fuel C1 or K1 in North America, or, if using kerosene, add 1% acetone to gain a clean burn.
Engine Tuning: Thank you so much for your advice very much appreciated and I will let you know the outcome on the fix.
I'll look forward to that Russell :)
Good luck with the fix!
I just picked up an Aladdin Blue Flame. After watching this, I can’t wait to light up…my wood stove. The Aladdin can just sit in the corner of the room and hold some books or something.
Very difficult to beat a wood stove.
It's not just the heat.
Something much deeper ;)
thanks mate. 👍
You did well👍🏿🔥🔥🔥🔥 ventilation is key for sure. I am experimenting and I think I have an additional tool to add to the project.
Let us know how it goes :)
Not sure if anyone has asked but can I blend biodiesel that I made with a blend of isopropyl alcohol
If you are to breathe the fumes of combustion; it is wise to know what you are burning ... particularly if you have a family that is relying upon you for your wisdom.
What ratio do you do?
informative video. thank you.
Back in about 1957 - 1959 my family used an old-style kerosene heater to stay warm, in the southeastern part of the USA. It was the only heat source. In those days kerosene was much cheaper than gasoline (aka petrol in the UK). Nowadays kerosene is somewhere between $11 & $12 per gallon in the USA, and is hard to find in useful quantities, since so few people use it for heating their homes anymore. At present I can find diesel fuel for about $3.75 U.S. per gallon, and I think home heating oil meant for a furnace with a flue is substantially cheaper. I'm not planning to use an oil stove for the main source of heat, just emergency backup heat, but if the electricity fails for an extended period of time, our gas furnace won't run (neither the igniter, the flow control valve, the blower, nor the thermostat). I don't know what if any standards were applied for kerosene back in the 1950s when my family used it, and other people did the same for decades prior. I wonder if all the bad things like copper, zinc, lead, etc. were higher or lower than the C1 or C2 British standard in those days? Who knows? But apparently people survived it fairly well back then. I don't think I will plan to store lots of gallons of kerosene at $12 per gallon for emergency use though. I'll probably take my chances on low-sulphur diesel fuel, probably with a little alcohol or some other additive. People who use oil heaters on a continuous basis and can get the C1 grade kerosene at a reasonable price might decide differently though. Even though I won't be taking your advice, the information is great for people using it on a continuous basis.
Very nicely thought through comment John.
Thanks for that :)
I do understand your general questioning of the safety line, and how it might have moved (or not) ... and what might be the outcomes, given long term usage of an oil.
We are now quite used to being fed false information.
That in itself leads us to question past information ... like; was it as bad then, as it is now?
My best guess, is that 'back then in the late 50's and 60's' the safety knowledge was probably known, or at least it would be an educated assumption, that the fumes might not be ideal for health.
Let's not forget that the refiners knew exactly what was in any given fuel ... because they had refined it ;)
The question was likely more to do with what was acceptable to the plebiscite, within an acceptable tolerance to achieve a working life, to say 65.
... death often followed fairly quickly after that.
Let's also not forget, that we were not far away from heavy smoke inhalation - think of 'Dark Satanic Mills' ;)
Hahah! You may have learned that improved sewage came about, only when the stench was too great in the houses of parliament :D
However (and by some chance of fate), engineering standards in the UK, took on a life of their own.
Perhaps allowed, because in fact, profit could be achieved from higher standards (things worked better).
Take for example electricity.
Actual standards in Europe today (meaning what you find in your house), are abysmal compared to the UK.
I have found in my house (France), cabling from at least the 1930's, mixed in with modern cabling ... and that circuit supplies lights AND sockets!
Consequently (and from experience); I believe the test engineers.
... for how long; I don't know; but for the time being, I believe that they are providing us with the correct data.
Obviously; what the media states (including TH-camrs), could be anything ... but we can still look for ourselves, and find the core test results.
Hey! The head of national statistics came out recently, stating that their published death stats were absolutely correct ... because they contradicted what the media and politicians were saying (ie. normal death stats).
Who are you gonna believe?
Him and his long standing team, or the media and the politicians?
From this ... I think that you are making a suitable emergency provision (with the diesel), because the short term benefit is enormous, against limited toxicity during an emergency.
Re prices
It's driven by other forces.
In France 1 US gallon of C1 costs $6 at today's rate.
Yet cost of gasoline in the usa today, is claimed to be 94cents per litre ... compared to France at $1.82
Pretty much, the US gasoline is half the price!
Clearly, the end product cost is unrelated to the manufacturing cost (plus reasonable margin).
Make of this what you will, but I do know that this situation has forced a lot of American people to burn diesel in their homes.
Re improving burn efficiency (and therefore safety for your family).
ALWAYS mix 0.5% to 1% acetone with the diesel.
I think that 0.5% is perfectly fine.
You are adding a highly combustible fuel ... but that is entirely insignificant.
What counts is that the acetone reduces the surface tension of the diesel, causing it to vaporise better ... leading to improved combustion (hotter).
Not only do you get more heat output (paying for the acetone, and more); but the fumes are cleaner AND the heater remains clean ... meaning ongoing clean burn, rather than a gradual degrading burn due to the build up of shite on the burner components.
Take care, and keep your eyes open at all times.
Best wishes ....
:)
I live just outside of NYC and 1-K is $7. I cannot imagine petroleum products in the South being much more expensive.. I wonder why.
Wonderful video, I am so grateful. I'm thinking maybe wood burning stove is a better option.
Very nice option, but you must install a chimney or steel flue. Also you will have wood management issues - buying it dry, storage, moving it into the house, cleaning out the cinders.
A wood fire is obviously superior for simple pleasure ... but they take a lot of work ;)
Is it safe to burn parrafin lantern indoors? Wot do you think? Thankyou for video
The key elements are the fuel and the temperature of the burn.
If your lantern is pump pressurised, and has a good gasification head & mantlr, the better the burn.
These Tilly lamps are literally brilliant.
If it is a traditional simple wick, it will be less efficient and create more fumes.
... but perhaps the fumes will be heavier, and will circulate less (just speculation).
A lantern burns less fuel, and doesn't have a fan to blow the fumes into circulation.
However, by buying the good quality paraffin, you will get the best burn that your lantern can deliver.
can i use lamp oil on a kerosene heater? Greetings roel and claudia from the netherlands city Nijmegen
It depends upon the grade of oil.
The lamp oil may simply be standard home heating oil / kerosene, sold expensively in small bottles.
These inverter heaters are designed to burn a lighter grade of oil.
They will burn kerosene, but with the associated issues, as described in the video.
Sound advice!
Hi could you recommend a good small economical heater for a camper van
Hi Davey :)
I would try to find 'van life' forums, and search van heaters on YT and the web.
It is a very popular subject, and there are sure to be some interesting solutions out there.
Apparently, small chinese diesel heaters are often getting fitted.
I'd experiment using C1 paraffin, instead of diesel.
I'd also try adding 0.5% acetone to the fuel.
In both cases the burn temp will increase, creating a cleaner burn.
Make sure that you install air quality alarms.
Also ensure that you have a good inlet airflow, and outlet.
Ventilation is key.
Another serious problem arises from the condensation between heat cycles.
This can create mould in cavities, which gives off dangerous spores (that stink).
Hence it is worth talking to those who have overcome these problems :)
@@EngineTuning
Thank you for replying yes I’ll be mindful of fumes, as a child of the 50s and 60s I remember my parents using paraffin heaters with no adverse effects. Appreciate your advice Tnx
I've seen a few vids on the Zibro brand heaters and a few colleagues of mine have been getting them for savings on heating costs. They are all satisfied. But here's the thing: my mother used one in the past and I talked to her about it. I can recall it from when I was a child. Great little heater. But they got rid of it in the past because of the fumes. They'd be very prominent and rather irritating to the lungs and throat. Is this a common problem or only in the case of unrefined kerosene / wrong type of fuel? I can imagine the sulfur amount being higher 30-40 years ago than now. I plan to use high quality Kerosene in a simple wick heater Zibro. Should I get a laser type? I mean the wick type looks a lot easier to maintain plus lesser electronics so I'd guess more reliable. My intended use is to heat my 64m² living room instead my whole damn house. Sorry for the long comment just trying to be clear.
The thing is Nightingale ... the ideal comment should reflect the authors thinking.
This means that the comment will be longer than a single sentence.
We like it that way :)
Overall, I would go for the more complex 'injector version'.
I have both the wick, and injector types.
... and what I know, is that the injector type burns cleaner.
Also, the heat can be adjusted (lower), while the burn remains clean.
If you add acetone at 0.25% - 1% it burns even cleaner; even at the lowest setting (and this saves you money).
I add acetone even with C1 grade fuel.
If you are forced, through cost (or unavailability of C1 fuel), to use heating oil (kerosene)...
I would strongly advise adding at least 0.25% of acetone to the kerosene.
The lazer (inverter, injector) heaters benefit from fan blown air into the combustion chamber - increasing combustion temperature.
Also, the fuel is metered to produce a leaner burn ... unlike the wick, which takes fuel on demand.
The wick type are good, but the additional complexity pays dividends
... and they are reliable ;)
Most of the problems arise from leaving it a year with old oil, or burning pure kerosene (which clogs the flame rod).
@@EngineTuning Hey ET, great video and good advice, thanks. Now that we might face gas shortages in the winter I jumped the gun and bought a Zibro LC 130. I also ordered some 20l of kerosene (suitable for heaters according to the seller). I'm not so sure that is suitable for indoor use so I requested the safety data sheet.
Can you tell me what to look out for? I doubt I will find the British standard there. It is a German seller btw.
I think I will get some aceton regardless.
@@vinnie3543 The fuel container will likely have a picture of an indoor heater on the wrapper, or stick on label.
I can't speak for Germany, but in France, in the supermarkets & DIY stores, the containers are piled up on a pallet.
Last winter, the fuel was cheaper than diesel, so I mixed 20 ltrs in the fuel tank of my Berlingo.
When ordering, you must request 'indoor heater' fuel.
Standard kerosene is a heater fuel, but for external exhaust.
Either way, adding some acetone will improve the burn efficiency ;)
Great information, thank you
I was wondering if you could advise me if its safe to use C1 paraffin in an oil lamp indoors?
Yes, it's going to be better, but don't forget that a full clean burn results from a good oxygen mix.
It's definitely worth trying :)
@@EngineTuning so the oil lamp won't give of any poisonous toxins when burning c1 Paraffin indoors? I always use lamp oil but it's really expensive getting.
@@johnn7614 My GUESS is that the lamp oil will be more toxic than C1.
The only sure way of knowing, is seeing it's specification.
C1 is highly refined, to remove toxins, and hence it is very thin/light.
A reasonable test will be if the C1 burns brighter, than lamp oil.
The pricing for lamp oil, is based upon what the market will accept.
Maybe it has a few drops of scented oil added to it (to boost the price).
... but you could easily add such oils to the C1.
Why not report back, after trying the C1?
:)
Thanks a lot. Good video
I REALLY wish they made a 1kw version of these wick paraffin heaters. Can't find one anywhere.
What about olive oil pls?Is that safe?Thanks
I have no data on burning olive oil, but from a viscosity perspective, it wouldn't work in a heater.
Some people process 'used vegetable oil', for use in diesel engines.
If you fancy doing some chemistry, you should locate web sites specialising in that field, but I have no confidence in it working in a heater.
Good luck, and thanks for raising the issue :)
Thanks for your advice 👍
.
Im still going to try a little bit of diesel but after watching this i will do a proper test to see how i feel... if theres a smell or my eyes burn etc
.
.
If i have any doubts il take your advice and just source cheeper premium grade paraffin 👍
Use heating oil, it's a lot cheaper than diesel
@@BillSikes.its also higher octane. Heating oil/kero is one thing but diesel? In a paraffin heater? Ah lads come on now. A bit of cop on.
Comment aimed at @goldenegg1063 not you.
Thanks well explained
Thanks for the feedback John :)
@@EngineTuning your Welcome indeed i have Subscribed
Thank you!
Does anyone know the ratio of paraffin to kerosene to make "lamp oil" Class III-A? You can just buy lamp oil but It would seem to be a few bucks cheaper to mix my own. crack a window yo? The proof of what Mr Tuning is saying is in the furnace filter after a winter. Home owners should put a duct on the cold air return to draw in some fresh air from outside,if you want to burn fuel in the house regularly. Don't be Silly, all aspects of fire is dangerous and should be treated with respect accordingly.
Good point 👍
Any chance you can do a vedio on wickless ceramic kerosene heaters
Sorry Doc; I have no experience with this type of heater :)
I found one that you put out, ds.
Thanks, what can you tell us about Alcohol as a heating fuel ?
I'd go for acetone as a mix with your fuel - paraffin or kerosene.
It breaks down the surface tension of the oil, allowing superior vaporisation.
This gives a cleaner, and slightly hotter burn.
As a result, it will keep the system cleaner, and will logically produce cleaner fumes.
Only tiny amounts are needed - even a quarter of a percent makes a big difference.
I'm running with 1% acetone this winter, but I have a local source, where 5 litres costs €15.
5 litres treats 500 litres of fuel at 1%, so the cost is insignificant, and the gains are substantial.
If you have a cheap source of alcohol, you could certainly try it in your mix.
It will be a bit like adding petrol to diesel in winter, for easier starting and more power.
Take it steady though.
5% to fuel oil might give very good results.
But first start with acetone, and check the flame colour.
If you have a pistol temp reader, you could remove the front grill and get a reading off the flue at a known burn condition, then repeat with your chosen mix, and try with alcohol.
:)
Would rather drink it to keep warm.
Ha yes, though I'm guessing that not all alcohol makes ideal booze :)
How dangerus are kerosene heaters and foumes?
The immediate danger is CO2 - there is risk of death.
CO2 rises as the oxygen in the house or room is burned with the fuel.
If you do not have a CO2 sensor... ensure that there is ventilation.
Be aware of sleepiness, headaches etc.
CO2 is odourless, and colourless... so be careful.
Thereafter, the risk is dependent upon the fuel that you are using.
1. Highly refined - for NON-VENTED systems (an individual heater in the room)
2. Less refined - for VENTED systems (has a flue or chimney)
There are also fuel oils that are not intended to be burnt as heating oil.
Diesel, Jet Fuel.
The problem is that these oils may contain additives that are required by the engine (or jet).
For all oils - in an individual heater - you breathe the combustion fumes.
So you have a choice.
Breathe combustion fumes that have almost no toxic substances - they were refined out of the oil.
Or
Breathe combustion fumes that have high levels of toxic substances - they were NOT refined out of the oil, because the fumes are meant to be carried outside by a chimney (or a car exhaust pipe).
@@EngineTuning , i think you mean CO, not CO2.
What makes you think that?
Short answers.
Kero heaters.
You can safely burn red dyed off road kero if you have modern fiberglass wicks.
Use an O2 detector and common sense.
If it smokes the fuel or wick is old/dirty.
Er Gerard ... did you actually watch the video?
Did you download the specs?
Did you think before posting?
Your channel is devoid of all activity.
Nobody knows you from Adam, nor why you would post your bizarre and obviously incorrect safety advice.
What are your motives here?
A 'paid for' troll perhaps?
Or just a lost soul spreading misinformation?
The directions that came with my heater says you can burn red dye off road fuel in it. It's a modern heater with fiberglass wick
I know a guy who used to run a kerosene heater with a kerosene-petrol mix. Last week it set his house on fire
That's a valuable cautionary tale.
Don't mess with petrol ;)
If you are forced to use kerosene ... add a small quantity of acetone - 1 to 2% is fine to achieve a hotter, cleaner burn.
Thank you
Thanks a lot
Lots of good information presented like a teacher/ Lecturer unfortunately I fell asleep...I need a carbon monoxide detector...
Hahahaha ... perhaps you should get one of each, while you are at it - CO and CO2 :D
Thankyou mate
I would never burn diesel inside.
i only buy c1 never had a problem
Yes, it's definitely going to give less problems
What is c1, I live in US!!
The link to the spec is in the description (show more) :)
Table 1 is C1 is for non-vented heater (highly refined oil)
Table 2 is C2 is for vented heater (home heating oil)
The equivalent of c1 in the US and Canada Is 1K kerosene
👍👍👍
This vid would be more convincing if the host looked like he had smoked alot less oil.
LOL
(using the edit feature ... separate the 'a' from 'alot', to improve the punchline of the joke)
I wouldn't want to breathe ANY exhaust fumes, weather it's safe or not.
Yes for sure... but breathing the products of combustion, is what we've been doing since we discovered fire.
If you live in a major city, you'll breath worse fumes than from a C1 grade paraffin heater.
This video is providing realistic advice that helps keep people safe
Gget rid of cars
ajwasp, what has the WEATHER to do with it only that you would only use a heater in a cold environment.
Lovely accent.
Beware these heaters can explode
I do own one .
cars explode too.
@Bob Mule I found a test on a page, where they claimed to have the biggest wick selection in the world, and they claimed there were almost no accident ever recorded with kerosene heaters. I don't see what could go wrong with them honestly!
I hate to rely on you if i has in a hurry
Hahahah!
What you can do is, modify the playback speed.
1.25 will work for just about every video.
Some are okay @ 1.5.
These days, if I make a video, I always do some speed mods.
Back then, I simply recorded everything on the fly.
:)
Not useful, but the drama queens will love this video.
Ah!
You find good information to be not useful.
Never mind......
take to long
Ha yes.... it always takes too long.
In the future, you will simply download brain waves ;)
You talk talk talk and no action, i think you love the sound of your own voice, you bored me to death! More action less talking works for me!
Hahaha!
I'm afraid that there is no action in this video ... and it IS all talking.
Never mind ... there are loads of action vids on TH-cam.
Thanks anyway, for dropping by and having a look (and posting a comment) :)
nie jest szkodliwy?
not the highly refined fuel.
Thank you!