Nice work....in Nigeria we don't use timber for walls an floors. We use reinforced concrete. I was wondering how the HVAC system for such a basement designed for a night club would look like. Tanx
💥 Thanks for the great info. I was told that if you cut into the supply duct you will disturb and reduce the flow and pressure to the main level of the house.
I'm an Electrician and I would drill straight at hip height for the whole basement I'm not going to drill low just to accommodate you put some expanding foam in the holes and your set 👍, and we can run horizontally through a cold air return we cannot run along it or we have to use thermopan or sleeve it and flex metal conduit and electrical fires never start in the middle of the wire always at a device or outlet! And if there's a fire hot enough to burn that insulation the fumes is the last of your worries versus all the other toxic shit burning down your house lol
What are your thoughts on adding HVAC to basement bathrooms? Last time I finished a basement I pulled supply from existing duct work but no return since it is vented to the outdoors and there are other returns throughout the basement.
Liked the HVAC pointers. Gotta say, it’s confusing to see framed basement walls in front of insulated house wrap which has an exposed side in direct contact with basement concrete walls. Not a great idea as moisture WILL come in contact with the exposed insulation under that wrap, negating the R value. Removing all wall wrap and then installing foam board sheets (with air gap behind it) is a much better solution. This is what I did in my own home.
It is better, but it's also a lot of work. When I did my first basement I ripped that same insulation off and did foam board everywhere. Lots of time and money. This time I'm just not bothering. My current house has ditra against exterior block to limit ingress of water and I keep a dry basement with a dehumidifier. I've not detected any noticeable moisture (I'm sure some is there, though), against block walls in any season so framing exactly as this guy did.
@@patty109109 - Sounds like newer construction and that you confirmed moisture migration hasn't been an issue. Should be fine! My home is newer however prior to starting the project I intentionally flooded exterior foundation walls where I landscaped. Sure enough, a limited amount of water migrated into the basement - through very thin foundation wall cracks - which I was able to properly seal. And yes, the foam board WAS expensive (just over $900) but not too hard to install. Gives great peace-of-mind.
If the goal is to put heat in the coldest area, that'll be below the window or just off to one side. Any other location is "good enough," but never as good. Basements are harder to heat than they are to cool. Give the basement a wintertime advantage and you'll be a hero. Let heat enter at the bottom so that you're not depending on the return to do ALL the mixing and distribution for you (it just won't.)
On that end for the bath fan A 4” hole saw worked wonders n needs to b removable for when the cheep fab /material breaks. I’ve broken the tabs of the flapper n no fix other than replacing. N the flex duct bad idea Cleaning ? Poor basement finishing. U gotta start at the floor. I don’t care what you do but if the cement floor neglected. Ittl always feel cold bad for winter but nice for summer.
Hi I'm finishing my Basement and I want to add a mini split ductless unit and I want to know do I need to ask the contractor to add returns from my current unit???
Great question! that I can't really give an answer to... It all depends on how big and the location of the mechanical room in the basement. If it is just a big mechanical room I would add one supply and no returns. I say no returns because of the risk of pulling that room into a negative pressure and the potential that you may have a natural draft appliance.
@@MetroHCI Thanks Joe! the room is about 200sq.ft. and is the full length of one side of a square basement divided by a wall and a door. My furnace has a fresh air intake that is installed to the exterior of the home and currently has a return on the trunk of the unit. I was planning to close that return up and add one to the finished part of the basement but was wondering if a supply was needed to keep fresh air to that room that also includes a hot water heater and softener? Thanks for the help!
@@MetroHCI Awesome, thanks! Would you agree with closing up the return that is in the mechanical room with the addition of the new one in the finished basement part?
It doesn't have to be blowing on the window, but across the window. If that makes sense? As long as the supply vent is on the outside wall you will be fine. Short answer long... It doesn't matter.
I have a question about dampers - if the supply ducts will be covered by drywall is a damper inside the duct required or is a damper on the vent cover acceptable?
In our location, the damper on the register is acceptable. There are dampers that you can install at the end of the boot, so all you would need to do is remove the register and reach into the duct to adjust.
It really doesn't matter where the cold air return is located, just as long as you have one. Common practice though, wherever you supply is, make the return opposite.
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3 years later and still a perfect 10min video. Thank you!
Well done, Joe. Clear and to the point with the subjects you covered. Keep up the good work!
I really enjoyed the tips on your video. One thing I am trying to figure out is how to hook a collar up to a round pipe
^ This
Nice work....in Nigeria we don't use timber for walls an floors. We use reinforced concrete. I was wondering how the HVAC system for such a basement designed for a night club would look like. Tanx
Nice place to install return bcz pulling hot air down on cold winter time 👍👍👍
Good video. Easy to follow and nice camera work
💥 Thanks for the great info. I was told that if you cut into the supply duct you will disturb and reduce the flow and pressure to the main level of the house.
Varies with how the specific homes system and how it’s preset
I'm an Electrician and I would drill straight at hip height for the whole basement I'm not going to drill low just to accommodate you put some expanding foam in the holes and your set 👍, and we can run horizontally through a cold air return we cannot run along it or we have to use thermopan or sleeve it and flex metal conduit and electrical fires never start in the middle of the wire always at a device or outlet! And if there's a fire hot enough to burn that insulation the fumes is the last of your worries versus all the other toxic shit burning down your house lol
Great overview!
What are your thoughts on adding HVAC to basement bathrooms? Last time I finished a basement I pulled supply from existing duct work but no return since it is vented to the outdoors and there are other returns throughout the basement.
For bathrooms, I typically install a 4" round pipe (from the main trunk line) to a 4x10 boot. There is no need for a return duct in a bathroom.
@@MetroHCI thanks for the tips!
If I install too many cold air returns, does it pose a risk of water heater vented gases coming back into the house?
Duct is super clean great job
An end result before drywall would have been the icing on the top
Liked the HVAC pointers. Gotta say, it’s confusing to see framed basement walls in front of insulated house wrap which has an exposed side in direct contact with basement concrete walls. Not a great idea as moisture WILL come in contact with the exposed insulation under that wrap, negating the R value. Removing all wall wrap and then installing foam board sheets (with air gap behind it) is a much better solution. This is what I did in my own home.
It is better, but it's also a lot of work. When I did my first basement I ripped that same insulation off and did foam board everywhere. Lots of time and money. This time I'm just not bothering. My current house has ditra against exterior block to limit ingress of water and I keep a dry basement with a dehumidifier. I've not detected any noticeable moisture (I'm sure some is there, though), against block walls in any season so framing exactly as this guy did.
@@patty109109 - Sounds like newer construction and that you confirmed moisture migration hasn't been an issue. Should be fine! My home is newer however prior to starting the project I intentionally flooded exterior foundation walls where I landscaped. Sure enough, a limited amount of water migrated into the basement - through very thin foundation wall cracks - which I was able to properly seal. And yes, the foam board WAS expensive (just over $900) but not too hard to install. Gives great peace-of-mind.
Great video, thank... Can you talk about the cost of a project like this.. Thanks .
If the goal is to put heat in the coldest area, that'll be below the window or just off to one side. Any other location is "good enough," but never as good.
Basements are harder to heat than they are to cool. Give the basement a wintertime advantage and you'll be a hero. Let heat enter at the bottom so that you're not depending on the return to do ALL the mixing and distribution for you (it just won't.)
Don't you want the supply on the bottom and the return up top?
can you send me more detail about the hole through the top plate for the cold air return?
On that end for the bath fan A 4” hole saw worked wonders n needs to b removable for when the cheep fab /material breaks. I’ve broken the tabs of the flapper n no fix other than replacing. N the flex duct bad idea Cleaning ? Poor basement finishing. U gotta start at the floor. I don’t care what you do but if the cement floor neglected. Ittl always feel cold bad for winter but nice for summer.
Great video
Was this an existing system that you added to?
Every house I’ve owned has one return per floor. I’m confused
What was the total cost for your HVAV services on this project?
Hi I'm finishing my Basement and I want to add a mini split ductless unit and I want to know do I need to ask the contractor to add returns from my current unit???
No you don’t want to add a return from your unit the ductless has return air on top and supply air out the bottom
Do you need a supply & return vent in the "mechanical room" or unfinished part of the basement?
Great question! that I can't really give an answer to... It all depends on how big and the location of the mechanical room in the basement. If it is just a big mechanical room I would add one supply and no returns. I say no returns because of the risk of pulling that room into a negative pressure and the potential that you may have a natural draft appliance.
@@MetroHCI Thanks Joe! the room is about 200sq.ft. and is the full length of one side of a square basement divided by a wall and a door. My furnace has a fresh air intake that is installed to the exterior of the home and currently has a return on the trunk of the unit. I was planning to close that return up and add one to the finished part of the basement but was wondering if a supply was needed to keep fresh air to that room that also includes a hot water heater and softener? Thanks for the help!
@@u-dash I see, You shouldn't needed a supply for your mechanical room.
@@MetroHCI Awesome, thanks! Would you agree with closing up the return that is in the mechanical room with the addition of the new one in the finished basement part?
@@u-dash Yes
Great video!
I have ducts that I want to shift.
Thanks!!
Why don’t you insulate the round pipe? Is it not required?
It is not required in our area, but to insulate the duct would be best practice. I offer to insulate, but usually homeowners opt out.
Thank you.
Why not run the supply below the windows?
Why wouldn’t you put heat as close to the floor as you can?
baseboards
ceiling supply vents - should the fins be pointed: a) to the windows / walls? OR b) toward the living space?
It doesn't have to be blowing on the window, but across the window. If that makes sense? As long as the supply vent is on the outside wall you will be fine. Short answer long... It doesn't matter.
I have a question about dampers - if the supply ducts will be covered by drywall is a damper inside the duct required or is a damper on the vent cover acceptable?
In our location, the damper on the register is acceptable. There are dampers that you can install at the end of the boot, so all you would need to do is remove the register and reach into the duct to adjust.
If basement finished how can I install it ducts? any idea please.
go ductless
Shouldn’t the cold air return be up top and register up top
It really doesn't matter where the cold air return is located, just as long as you have one. Common practice though, wherever you supply is, make the return opposite.
Remember hot air stay up in ceiling if return openig is there ceiling pull hot air back to furnace leaving cold air down in room 🤔
Typical heating and Air using a sawzall for a duck hole when you should have used a hole saw!
Duck hole?
Heating registers, Should be run down near floor!