I keep all my rods in those red storage tubes like you have in the video and put a few desiccant packs in each one. So far so good. Thanks for the great info, very informative. 👍
I have found old 6010, 11, 13, series rods can pick up excessive moisture and affect performance too. It was amazing how much better they ran after "drying" them out. I oven them at 300 degrees for 5 hours, then put them in the sealed tubes.
I keep my 7018 in a sealed tube like the one you showed. If it's a job I'm concerned about I use a halogen work light to heat my rods right before I use them, only takes a few minutes and works well especially when welding outside in the winter.
I saw a Navy video of why LoHy rods need to be hot out of a rod oven. It showed a ship in rough seas that cracked in half. And sunk And it was HYDROGEN in the welds that caused it. And baking the Lo Hydrogen electrodes in a rod oven removed the Hydrogen from the rod. And Used within a specific time limit. Like 30 minutes. Plus the metal has to be warm not really cold. Great Video
I had a box of Lincoln 6013 in 5/64; I use to use them quit often... (Now I kind of prefer Fleetweld 180 6011 but that's another story). One day, they start acting weird (pinholes, porosity, etc) in a known environment (same position, same prep, same metal thickness, etc). Couldn't see the reason why... I decided to put them in the rod oven. That took care of it all...
Thank you for the explanation Tim and especially for putting in perspective when one might or might not need to worry about low hydrogen procedures. Very informative as usual!
Hey Tim! Thanks for covering this topic! So one day I was welding a very thin square tubing and did notice the welding current is too high and I couldn't get a nice weld. The rod was Esab OK46/6013 from the same box as before and I know I was doing ok, After heating up in the oven for about an hour the welding current went back to normal. Looks like if you store your rods in very humid environment moisture does affect the performance. But I didn't notice that problem while doing welds on some thick metal with 80A or higher.
Thanks Tim for your time and effort. The true is that I have learn the hard way how to weld No clases. No courses what so ever. I have been learn with this types of videos Thanks. Again
Good video. In welding school we all drew out of a 50 lb can of Lincoln 7018 for about a week until the can was empty with good results. There was a rod oven in the shop but I would only bake out rods if I was going for certs. I found an open can of 7018 at the dump that definitely needed to be baked out in order to run at all After bake out it ran fine. That day I was glad I had a rod oven.
What can be done to keep them dry. Put them Into a low temperature oven then into a partial air evacuated tube while still warm. Used a 3" plastic tube, one end glued on, the other end with an 'o' ring inside the cap. Put a bicycle valve inside the cap, backwards, and using a vacuum, pulled out some air. Long time storage.
Super! The timing of your video was great. I am about to weld some 6 steel posts and hadn't opened my first box of 7018s yet. I am glad you explained the component factors for cracking. Usually you are just presented with hydrogen content. And yes, all other rods deposit a lot of it anyway. Thanks!
I remember one time welding in the rain, everything was wet. I had to be very careful how I handled everything. I put a rod in and turned the welder on with my foot , turning it back off at the end of the weld. Everything was wet, I believe my rods ( or short pieces I was using ) were actually in a bucket of water. They were totally wet - the total opposite of having them in an oven. I believe they might have even been 7018. They welded okay, but then I wasn't trying to pass any weld tests with them. I recall they were steaming away as I welded. Those were probably super - hydrogenated welds that day.
I live in Ghana and used to keep my rods in a solar dehydrator until the wife said I couldn't. I now keep them in an old ammo box under the tin roof of my workshop.
Great, thanks, I saw some video where the put full power on a 7018 for a second, so it heats up and the person says that sometimes you can see the steam coming out the electrode for a short moment.
I have a box of Lincoln Excalibur that were left in the garage and don't run right anymore. There is a lot of popping and spatter and it's hard to hold a arc as it wants to go out. I have to start long arcing it to stay lit when it starts to die. Can you put them in a normal oven and fix them?
As a suggestion, you may want your welding rod oven to be between 250-350F for optimal performance. Different rods sometimes need different temperatures - for example, some reconditioning 7018 rods may be baked at around 250F while holding temperature lower than 212F for out of the hermetically sealed container. Always seek the manufacturers temperature recommendtion for both holding/reconditioning.
I love these channels and I watch him religiously but they use these big words cellulose hydrogen without explaining exactly what that is and what it means when it comes to welding your material, and I'm sure it's to make people feel like and everybody look like but sometimes people are so smart they forget everybody else is not as smart that's the whole reason we also watch the channel is to become more educated as well and so you use the big words that's fine so at least we'll know what those words are or to use them but if we don't know what they are and how they actually apply to the material or the work that we're doing then what good is it doing to talk all these words without giving any explanation of what these words mean and how they affect the strength of Goodwill or a bad weld cracking over time whatever holding things together or not still on and on and on
Hey Tim. Quick question, first off love the vids been binge watching all of them as I'm just getting into welding. Got a cheap decent little all in 1 machine for around 300 on Amazon and unfortunately I chose the worst time of year to begin this hobby lol. It's pretty cold so I was watching your DIY fume extractor video as I was considering indoor welding. I have a basement with a decently sized little area and most everything is concrete other than the ceiling and some cabinets. The ceiling is roughly 8 feet high. My question is would u suggest against that at all? Aside from the fumes of course cuz I'm limited to flux and stick as I haven't got a bottle yet. But again I'm looking into making a little ventilation system to run out the window. Just wanted to ask a pro before going for it as obviously I'm still new and don't want to put my home at to much risk lol. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated! Have a great day.
It shouldn’t be a problem as long as you do have fume extraction of some sort that’s actually effective. Welding fumes can be dangerous as there are a lot of different chemicals generated by the plasma’s high temperatures. Just make certain the any flammable items are further away than the furthest spark fly distance. Those tiny globules of metal are several thousand degrees when they begin their flight. If, as you should, clean your metal before welding, make certain to never use any chlorinated solvents, such as many brake cleaners. Check before using.
@@melgross thank you! And yeah I think I'll definitely be sticking to acetone if I have to clean anything. I actually just watched a vid a few days ago where somebody talked about how bad break clean and any chlorinated cleaners can be. Will definitely be staying clear of all that for any welding work
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You can learn to weld. I'll show you exactly what to do in my affordable online welding courses at courses.timwelds.com.
I keep all my rods in those red storage tubes like you have in the video and put a few desiccant packs in each one. So far so good. Thanks for the great info, very informative. 👍
I have found old 6010, 11, 13, series rods can pick up excessive moisture and affect performance too. It was amazing how much better they ran after "drying" them out. I oven them at 300 degrees for 5 hours, then put them in the sealed tubes.
I keep my 7018 in a sealed tube like the one you showed. If it's a job I'm concerned about I use a halogen work light to heat my rods right before I use them, only takes a few minutes and works well especially when welding outside in the winter.
I saw a Navy video of why LoHy rods need to be hot out of a rod oven.
It showed a ship in rough seas that cracked in half. And sunk
And it was HYDROGEN in the welds that caused it. And baking the Lo Hydrogen electrodes in a rod oven removed the Hydrogen from the rod.
And Used within a specific time limit. Like 30 minutes.
Plus the metal has to be warm not really cold. Great Video
I had a box of Lincoln 6013 in 5/64; I use to use them quit often... (Now I kind of prefer Fleetweld 180 6011 but that's another story). One day, they start acting weird (pinholes, porosity, etc) in a known environment (same position, same prep, same metal thickness, etc). Couldn't see the reason why... I decided to put them in the rod oven. That took care of it all...
Cool! I can see that, though a very small amount of moisture is actually beneficial for 6013s.
@@TimWelds Then, it is a bit weird...
8th
Thank you for the explanation Tim and especially for putting in perspective when one might or might not need to worry about low hydrogen procedures. Very informative as usual!
On a hot sunny day I set the electrodes on steel painted black and they heat up quite well, ignite better, weld better.
Thanks for speaking of “warmed rods run better.”
This was why I was trying to build a “rod-warmer” - went too cheap. Didn’t work out.
Hey Tim! Thanks for covering this topic!
So one day I was welding a very thin square tubing and did notice the welding current is too high and I couldn't get a nice weld. The rod was Esab OK46/6013 from the same box as before and I know I was doing ok,
After heating up in the oven for about an hour the welding current went back to normal. Looks like if you store your rods in very humid environment moisture does affect the performance. But I didn't notice that problem while doing welds on some thick metal with 80A or higher.
Does Phoenix AZ in the summer time qualify as a rod oven?
Probably, especially if you leave them in the car. 😂
Quartzite does for sure.
Is it that bad in AZ 😂😂😂
Thanks Tim for your time and effort.
The true is that I have learn the hard way how to weld
No clases.
No courses what so ever.
I have been learn with this types of videos
Thanks. Again
Good video. In welding school we all drew out of a 50 lb can of Lincoln 7018 for about a week until the can was empty with good results. There was a rod oven in the shop but I would only bake out rods if I was going for certs. I found an open can of 7018 at the dump that definitely needed to be baked out in order to run at all After bake out it ran fine. That day I was glad I had a rod oven.
What can be done to keep them dry. Put them Into a low temperature oven then into a partial air evacuated tube while still warm. Used a 3" plastic tube, one end glued on, the other end with an 'o' ring inside the cap. Put a bicycle valve inside the cap, backwards, and using a vacuum, pulled out some air. Long time storage.
Super! The timing of your video was great. I am about to weld some 6 steel posts and hadn't opened my first box of 7018s yet. I am glad you explained the component factors for cracking. Usually you are just presented with hydrogen content. And yes, all other rods deposit a lot of it anyway. Thanks!
I remember one time welding in the rain, everything was wet. I had to be very careful how I handled everything. I put a rod in and turned the welder on with my foot , turning it back off at the end of the weld. Everything was wet, I believe my rods ( or short pieces I was using ) were actually in a bucket of water. They were totally wet - the total opposite of having them in an oven. I believe they might have even been 7018.
They welded okay, but then I wasn't trying to pass any weld tests with them.
I recall they were steaming away as I welded. Those were probably super - hydrogenated welds that day.
I live in Ghana and used to keep my rods in a solar dehydrator until the wife said I couldn't. I now keep them in an old ammo box under the tin roof of my workshop.
Wives always ruin things! Lol🙂
I am an amateur welder and I store my rods in an ammo box with dessicant packs.
That’s a great idea! Thanks!
Eventually I'll find a mini fridge and disconnect the compressor and install a 40W bulb in it.
@@dolphincliffs8864 rod ovens reach 300 degrees. A 40 watt bulb isn’t going to dry them out the way high heat drives out the moisture.
@@melgross Fine. I'll use my pizza oven then. It's the one I use for powder coating cast boolits.
@@dolphincliffs8864 that would work,
Good info Tim…… thank you! Doing a E7018 project tomorrow….. good video timing✅👍👌
Awesome! Thanks!
Great, thanks, I saw some video where the put full power on a 7018 for a second, so it heats up and the person says that sometimes you can see the steam coming out the electrode for a short moment.
Cost of electric is cost prohibitive to an oven here.
Dessicant and avoiding temp fluctuation is key for most applications.
Thanks for the video. So if I'm making a smoker or a fire pit in my garage out of 3/16" mild steel, relax and don't worry about it.
thanks for the rod storage tip. i just ordered 2.
Another good one, Tim. Thank you!
Thanks!
LOL mine are just sitting out in the Canadian ass cold weather
LOL 😂
Do Canadian pipe welders stop using 6010s during winter because of the super dry humidity?
7014 , nobody talks about the 7014 .
I'm wondering if anyone shorts their 7018 in lieu of reconditioning?
7014 could be a good alternative if you need the 70k psi tensile strength.
Awesome video. Love the science behind it all.
Always Great explanations I enjoy learning more
Can you write ✍ the numbers out for the electrodes you use successfully?! Thanks 😊
what about dropping a silica gel pack into the storage container the rods come in?
Thanks for the good information
Excellent video.
Good work
Can mild steel be welded with 7018 wire? Thank you for your useful explanation
Yeah, 7018 is great on mild steel.
I wandering about that!
I have a box of Lincoln Excalibur that were left in the garage and don't run right anymore. There is a lot of popping and spatter and it's hard to hold a arc as it wants to go out. I have to start long arcing it to stay lit when it starts to die. Can you put them in a normal oven and fix them?
Yes.
good video
Always leave your low hydrogen rods in an oven. If you’re doing X-ray quality welds non-baked rods will never pass.
I shove mine in the fridge
Bad idea. A cold rod coming into warmer air will get condensation.
Can i revive some 7018 and 6013 rods in a toaster oven for 20 min or so?
What is a rod oven? How do you get moisture out a 7018?
As a suggestion, you may want your welding rod oven to be between 250-350F for optimal performance. Different rods sometimes need different temperatures - for example, some reconditioning 7018 rods may be baked at around 250F while holding temperature lower than 212F for out of the hermetically sealed container. Always seek the manufacturers temperature recommendtion for both holding/reconditioning.
I love these channels and I watch him religiously but they use these big words cellulose hydrogen without explaining exactly what that is and what it means when it comes to welding your material, and I'm sure it's to make people feel like and everybody look like but sometimes people are so smart they forget everybody else is not as smart that's the whole reason we also watch the channel is to become more educated as well and so you use the big words that's fine so at least we'll know what those words are or to use them but if we don't know what they are and how they actually apply to the material or the work that we're doing then what good is it doing to talk all these words without giving any explanation of what these words mean and how they affect the strength of Goodwill or a bad weld cracking over time whatever holding things together or not still on and on and on
Hey Tim. Quick question, first off love the vids been binge watching all of them as I'm just getting into welding. Got a cheap decent little all in 1 machine for around 300 on Amazon and unfortunately I chose the worst time of year to begin this hobby lol. It's pretty cold so I was watching your DIY fume extractor video as I was considering indoor welding. I have a basement with a decently sized little area and most everything is concrete other than the ceiling and some cabinets. The ceiling is roughly 8 feet high. My question is would u suggest against that at all? Aside from the fumes of course cuz I'm limited to flux and stick as I haven't got a bottle yet. But again I'm looking into making a little ventilation system to run out the window. Just wanted to ask a pro before going for it as obviously I'm still new and don't want to put my home at to much risk lol. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated! Have a great day.
It shouldn’t be a problem as long as you do have fume extraction of some sort that’s actually effective. Welding fumes can be dangerous as there are a lot of different chemicals generated by the plasma’s high temperatures. Just make certain the any flammable items are further away than the furthest spark fly distance. Those tiny globules of metal are several thousand degrees when they begin their flight.
If, as you should, clean your metal before welding, make certain to never use any chlorinated solvents, such as many brake cleaners. Check before using.
@@melgross thank you! And yeah I think I'll definitely be sticking to acetone if I have to clean anything. I actually just watched a vid a few days ago where somebody talked about how bad break clean and any chlorinated cleaners can be. Will definitely be staying clear of all that for any welding work
Are the 7018S good for beginner?
I think they are. The only challenge is that they can be a little harder to strike an arc with after part of the rod has been used.
@@TimWelds I learned electrode welding 50 years ago but didn't practice it.
Now I'm a little older, but I want to learn it again! Thank you!
Ug- nothing actionable here.
This is great Tim, thank you!