Well good sir, this video just put my M1009 back in service. The “Pink” wire was the culprit , it was broken from the connector. I patched it up and she woke back up. I appreciate the content and knowledge your giving to help keep these M1009 on the road 👍 . Thank you from Lytle Texas
I would suggest following the battery cables from the batteries. Verify there is voltage at every point. The passenger side battery should have a cable going directly to the starter. Then from the starter there should be a 12 gauge red wire going to the star shaped “Engine Buss” next to the brake booster. From there another red wire should go to the firewall plug at the back of the fuse panel.
Hey Tim. I have a 1983 k10 with the 6.2 and a banks turbo kit. I have an electric fuel pump on it and I’m getting fuel through the injection pump no problem it seems like but I can not get anything to come out through the injectors. Solenoid seems to be working and I have 12 V going to the pink wire.
How long have you turned the engine over with the starter? If any air got into the IP it normally takes about 3 minutes total cranking time to start getting fuel to the injectors again. I crank for 20 seconds, let the starter cool for a few minutes and repeat until it starts. I can’t link it here, but I have a video out about this exact subject. Thanks for watching.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 I’ve probably done it around 5 minutes total. Had to recharge the batteries. Gonna try it more time tomorrow and if I can’t get I have a feeling the pump is bad. Guy told me when I bought it that it would cut off sometimes after idling for 10 minutes or so. It’s been sitting for around 8 years but it was running when he parked it. Only reason he didn’t go back to it was he was redoing the suspension and lost interest
@@colesikes3808 If it runs and drives fine, then suddenly cuts out every so often. That makes me think you have an air leak somewhere. Fuel filter, hose between frame and lift pump, hose between fuel lines under the passenger seat, hose between fuel line and fuel tank and maybe a rust hole in the fuel pick up inside the tank. Does it only happen say when you get below 3/4 tank of fuel?
@@timsteachablemoments1786 well I thought the same thing so I took a five gallon can put the hose in it and it’s pumping fine out of it as well. It’s pumping up the ip no problem and going through the pump and coming out the return. I just can’t get it go to the injector lines
@@colesikes3808 Darn. I suggest pulling the IP cover off and making sure the solenoid is actually moving when power is applied to it. Verify the metering rod inside the IP moves as well. If that all checks then you are pretty much left with the IP needing a rebuild. Sorry.
Thank you for the information. Is it quite a job to replace the fuel sending unit? My fuel gauge quit working. I don't know if I should cut a hole in the bed. I don't want to but I might have to. Thanks for any information.
What are you working on? Civilian Blazer and military pick up trucks, pulling the tank isn’t that bad. Just cumbersome. Military M1009 Blazer is an entirely different world of things in the way. The pintle hook has to come off. All of my bolts for that broke. So did my fuel tank trap ends. I don’t live where rust is a problem.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 Thank you for the fast reply. I have a 93 chevy 6.5. 1 ton. right now I'm getting no power to the ignition. My batteries are good and I checked my fuses they are good. Where would you start? I have never had this problem. No diesel Mech where I live small town. Taken it twice to one mech. No good. I know you are a professional and knowdiesels. 75 miles to a city. Any suggestion appreciated. No rust where I live S.W. N.M. Thank you.
@@09Youba I would suggest starting at the batteries. Pull off all 4 connections, wire brush them, check the voltage on the batteries and tighten the cables back up. Follow the ground wire from one of the batteries to where it bolts to the frame. Remove that bolt, wire brush it and tighten it back up. The positive from the batteries should go to the starter motor. Verify there is battery voltage there and all connections tight. Power then goes from the starter connection to the firewall. Follow the wire and check connections and voltage along the way. Keep following the power wires all the way to the ignition switch on the steering column. There should be no fuses or fusable link between the batteries and the ignition switch. If you have battery voltage all the way to the ignition switch, check the other leads on the switch with the key in different positions
Your the Man Tim. After cleaning all the ground wires and terminals I noticed the positive cable connection with the two positive cables that connect to both batteries inside the rubber connection there is a washer that was rusty. I replaced that washer and the truck started right away. This may seem simple to most all of your subscribers but it is the little things you miss that could be the problem. Your were right clean every thing. Many thanks your the Pro.
My 1987 6.2 Suburban won't crank. I suspect a bad starter since it clicks once but won't crank. But before I remove the starter, I'm curious about another issue. The glow plug dash light has been intermittent for a while. I installed a bypass switch to the relay but the manual switch doesn't even trigger the dash light anymore even though I can hear something switching on when I flip it. Bad bulb? Bad glow plug controller? Bad glow plugs? I'm feeling I should figure this out before jumping on a starter swap. Any ideas Tim?
I like your theory of a bad bulb for the WAIT light. If you hear the clicking, then the light should be on. If not that, then start looking for broken wires. Thanks for watching.
That shouldn’t cause it to run rough. A good way to check is remove the belts and see if it is still running rough. With a cold engine you can let it run 3-5 minutes without any issues. A warmed up engine just try to keep it under 1-2 minutes.
Tim i just bought a cucv m1010 but it fails to idle tried to service the injector pump, what could be the problem? could it be the pink wire still? Please i need ur advise?
Sorry you are having trouble with your new truck. Once started, the pink wire is working. Especially if it starts right back up again with some throttle applied. My first thought is idle speed, timing, fuel filter and air filter. I really need more information. Have you watched my video about the Technical manuals? th-cam.com/video/k06GHlIhgZE/w-d-xo.html I would also suggest steelsoldiers.com. There are a large number of us fools on that website discussing these trucks and their issues.
@@timsteachablemoments1786thanks alot Tim, when u start the car, it will start properly but the moment u release the throttle it won't stay idling? I have changed the engine oil, hydraulic oil, fuel filter and the cleaner and am now suspecting the wiring since it was over parked and rodents seems to have eaten some wires.unless otherwise. But so far u have given me good advise compared to other mechanics I have tried to approach. Actually since it was a military ambulance my last option was to approach the American embassy here in Uganda for help coz we don't have go mechanics for chevys in uganda
You need to look for a diesel mechanic. Think older diesel tractors. That is who will know what to look for. The more you write, the more the trouble seems to concentrate on the Injection Pump.
Actually the injector becomes hot near the return area what coukd be the problem? Could it be that a wire is missing actaull all the connections to the injector pump?
You are saying the injection pump is getting hot near the return line/green wire plugs in? That is actually kind of normal since the fuel is pumped at high pressure by the IP right before it exits the IP to return to the tank. That does heat it up, but not so much smoke is coming off the IP. How old is your IP?
Thank you for sharing your knowledge! I got excited hoping that pink wire/fuel solenoid was going to solve my problems. It did not. Crank, but no start. I get white smoke, JUST changed all glow plugs (all under 1ohm), batteries are relatively new, can definitely hear the starter spinning just fine. After a while of trying to crank the batteries WILL start dying and therefore I put them on the charger the other night... One charged over night and the other charged while I was at work. Still no start. This is my very first diesel and I'm at a total loss. Any suggestions on where to look? My buddy switched it all to 12V and I still have two batteries and only one alternator hooked up. P.S. - My apologies for the lengthy comment.
Great video brother, mine starts cold well, with high idling, but at soon as it reaches operating temperature, i get a rough idle, unless i accelerate a little, any ideas what my problem could be? Note that i have not changed the fuel filter yet, could that be the issue?
My first thought it idle speed followed by timing with IP issues bringing up the expensive rear. Change the filter for sure. Then just drive the thing for an hour or more. Old fuel, old parts and cold weather might be ganging up on you if it was fine a while ago and now does this. Nice looking Camero in your avitar.
It really is loud enough to hear from the bumper. Before I moved the microphone it was over the grill. You should also see a spark if you look close and the light is low.
@@timsteachablemoments1786Wow! Thank you so much for responding. I’ve been trying to figure out why mine is so hard to start. I have to crank for 1 to 2 minutes for it to fire up if it’s been sitting for longer than a day. Subscribed!
@@22Platypus What fuel filter do you have? If you still have the stock Chevy/Fram you could have a leak in the base that is common on them. Thanks for subscribing.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 You are probably my right. I had issues with my injection pump a few years ago and replaced the fuel filter housing with a new, but same style rectangle one at the same time. I just ordered a new (spin on) one. Will report back soon. Thanks!
@@timsteachablemoments1786Not saying this to throw it in your face, just thought you’d like to know. I put a new fuel filter setup on and it made no difference. Started messing with the solenoid again and noticed the click had gotten even quieter. Took it out and noticed the plunger was quite stiff. Worked it back and forth and it got better, but still a bit crunchy. Then I realized I had noticed that the engine would run for about a second after I turned off the key and it all made sense. Ordered a new one and it seems to be fixed. Like I said, super appreciate you replying to me (multiple times, at that), so thought I’d report back. Thanks!
Are you getting any smoke out the pipe while cranking? No smoke normally means no fuel. White smoke that is dirty looking normally means fuel and not enough heat. Check glow plugs.
Well good sir, this video just put my M1009 back in service. The “Pink” wire was the culprit , it was broken from the connector. I patched it up and she woke back up. I appreciate the content and knowledge your giving to help keep these M1009 on the road 👍 . Thank you from Lytle Texas
Thank you Tim. I just bought a 1010 with a no start and the owner believed it was the solenoid but had moved on to other projects. Sub'd
Well damn. This is a very underrated channel right here.
That is great to read. It was your comments on another video that prompted this one getting made.
Good spin on that starter!
Do you by chance have a video showing how to start the 6.2 without it being in a vehicle
I do. However it is just starting and not how to do it. I will get on that and make a how to. Thanks for watching
I got an 82 with the 6.2 I hooked up both batteries no power when I turn the key completely silent
I would suggest following the battery cables from the batteries. Verify there is voltage at every point. The passenger side battery should have a cable going directly to the starter. Then from the starter there should be a 12 gauge red wire going to the star shaped “Engine Buss” next to the brake booster. From there another red wire should go to the firewall plug at the back of the fuse panel.
Hey Tim. I have a 1983 k10 with the 6.2 and a banks turbo kit. I have an electric fuel pump on it and I’m getting fuel through the injection pump no problem it seems like but I can not get anything to come out through the injectors. Solenoid seems to be working and I have 12 V going to the pink wire.
How long have you turned the engine over with the starter? If any air got into the IP it normally takes about 3 minutes total cranking time to start getting fuel to the injectors again. I crank for 20 seconds, let the starter cool for a few minutes and repeat until it starts. I can’t link it here, but I have a video out about this exact subject. Thanks for watching.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 I’ve probably done it around 5 minutes total. Had to recharge the batteries. Gonna try it more time tomorrow and if I can’t get I have a feeling the pump is bad. Guy told me when I bought it that it would cut off sometimes after idling for 10 minutes or so. It’s been sitting for around 8 years but it was running when he parked it. Only reason he didn’t go back to it was he was redoing the suspension and lost interest
@@colesikes3808 If it runs and drives fine, then suddenly cuts out every so often. That makes me think you have an air leak somewhere. Fuel filter, hose between frame and lift pump, hose between fuel lines under the passenger seat, hose between fuel line and fuel tank and maybe a rust hole in the fuel pick up inside the tank. Does it only happen say when you get below 3/4 tank of fuel?
@@timsteachablemoments1786 well I thought the same thing so I took a five gallon can put the hose in it and it’s pumping fine out of it as well. It’s pumping up the ip no problem and going through the pump and coming out the return. I just can’t get it go to the injector lines
@@colesikes3808 Darn. I suggest pulling the IP cover off and making sure the solenoid is actually moving when power is applied to it. Verify the metering rod inside the IP moves as well. If that all checks then you are pretty much left with the IP needing a rebuild. Sorry.
Thank you for the information. Is it quite a job to replace the fuel sending unit? My fuel gauge quit
working. I don't know if I should cut a hole in the bed. I don't want to but I might have to.
Thanks for any information.
What are you working on? Civilian Blazer and military pick up trucks, pulling the tank isn’t that bad. Just cumbersome. Military M1009 Blazer is an entirely different world of things in the way. The pintle hook has to come off. All of my bolts for that broke. So did my fuel tank trap ends. I don’t live where rust is a problem.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 Thank you for the fast reply. I have a 93 chevy 6.5.
1 ton. right now I'm getting no power to the ignition. My batteries are good and I
checked my fuses they are good. Where would you start? I have never had this problem. No diesel Mech where I live small town. Taken it twice to one mech. No
good. I know you are a professional and knowdiesels. 75 miles to a city. Any suggestion appreciated. No rust where I live S.W. N.M. Thank you.
@@09Youba I would suggest starting at the batteries. Pull off all 4 connections, wire brush them, check the voltage on the batteries and tighten the cables back up. Follow the ground wire from one of the batteries to where it bolts to the frame. Remove that bolt, wire brush it and tighten it back up. The positive from the batteries should go to the starter motor. Verify there is battery voltage there and all connections tight. Power then goes from the starter connection to the firewall. Follow the wire and check connections and voltage along the way. Keep following the power wires all the way to the ignition switch on the steering column. There should be no fuses or fusable link between the batteries and the ignition switch.
If you have battery voltage all the way to the ignition switch, check the other leads on the switch with the key in different positions
@@timsteachablemoments1786 Thank you Tim, I really appreciate your advice. I will let you know how this goes.
Your the Man Tim. After cleaning all the ground wires and terminals I noticed the positive cable connection with the two positive cables that connect to both batteries
inside the rubber connection there is a washer that was rusty. I replaced that washer and the truck started right away. This may seem simple to most all of your subscribers
but it is the little things you miss that could be the problem. Your were right clean every
thing. Many thanks your the Pro.
My 1987 6.2 Suburban won't crank. I suspect a bad starter since it clicks once but won't crank. But before I remove the starter, I'm curious about another issue. The glow plug dash light has been intermittent for a while. I installed a bypass switch to the relay but the manual switch doesn't even trigger the dash light anymore even though I can hear something switching on when I flip it. Bad bulb? Bad glow plug controller? Bad glow plugs? I'm feeling I should figure this out before jumping on a starter swap. Any ideas Tim?
I like your theory of a bad bulb for the WAIT light. If you hear the clicking, then the light should be on. If not that, then start looking for broken wires. Thanks for watching.
Dirty white smoke normally means not enough heat for combustion. Are you sure you are getting voltage to the new glow plugs?
Will 6.2 run rough if water pump is bad
That shouldn’t cause it to run rough. A good way to check is remove the belts and see if it is still running rough. With a cold engine you can let it run 3-5 minutes without any issues. A warmed up engine just try to keep it under 1-2 minutes.
Tim i just bought a cucv m1010 but it fails to idle tried to service the injector pump, what could be the problem? could it be the pink wire still? Please i need ur advise?
Sorry you are having trouble with your new truck.
Once started, the pink wire is working. Especially if it starts right back up again with some throttle applied. My first thought is idle speed, timing, fuel filter and air filter. I really need more information. Have you watched my video about the Technical manuals?
th-cam.com/video/k06GHlIhgZE/w-d-xo.html
I would also suggest steelsoldiers.com. There are a large number of us fools on that website discussing these trucks and their issues.
@@timsteachablemoments1786thanks alot Tim, when u start the car, it will start properly but the moment u release the throttle it won't stay idling? I have changed the engine oil, hydraulic oil, fuel filter and the cleaner and am now suspecting the wiring since it was over parked and rodents seems to have eaten some wires.unless otherwise. But so far u have given me good advise compared to other mechanics I have tried to approach. Actually since it was a military ambulance my last option was to approach the American embassy here in Uganda for help coz we don't have go mechanics for chevys in uganda
You need to look for a diesel mechanic. Think older diesel tractors. That is who will know what to look for. The more you write, the more the trouble seems to concentrate on the Injection Pump.
Actually the injector becomes hot near the return area what coukd be the problem? Could it be that a wire is missing actaull all the connections to the injector pump?
You are saying the injection pump is getting hot near the return line/green wire plugs in? That is actually kind of normal since the fuel is pumped at high pressure by the IP right before it exits the IP to return to the tank. That does heat it up, but not so much smoke is coming off the IP. How old is your IP?
@@timsteachablemoments1786what do u mean by IP, I bought the car last year but it has been grounded since 2000
IP is short for Injection Pump. 24 years is a very long life for an injection pump. That very well could be your problem.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 thanks for the advise probably which state are u in so when am in USA I can pay curtsey call on u. Thanks very much
I’m in eastern Central Texas. Kind of out of the way.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge! I got excited hoping that pink wire/fuel solenoid was going to solve my problems. It did not.
Crank, but no start. I get white smoke, JUST changed all glow plugs (all under 1ohm), batteries are relatively new, can definitely hear the starter spinning just fine. After a while of trying to crank the batteries WILL start dying and therefore I put them on the charger the other night... One charged over night and the other charged while I was at work. Still no start.
This is my very first diesel and I'm at a total loss. Any suggestions on where to look? My buddy switched it all to 12V and I still have two batteries and only one alternator hooked up.
P.S. - My apologies for the lengthy comment.
Check your pmd
Also, please subscribe to my channel, like and share as much as you want. Thanks.
93 suburban with a 6.5 i can jump it and it will run but as soon as i turn it off shes dead in the water any ideas
Start simple with the battery terminal connections and then get the battery tested is nothing is found.
Thank you. Thanks for watching.
Great video brother, mine starts cold well, with high idling, but at soon as it reaches operating temperature, i get a rough idle, unless i accelerate a little, any ideas what my problem could be? Note that i have not changed the fuel filter yet, could that be the issue?
My first thought it idle speed followed by timing with IP issues bringing up the expensive rear. Change the filter for sure. Then just drive the thing for an hour or more. Old fuel, old parts and cold weather might be ganging up on you if it was fine a while ago and now does this.
Nice looking Camero in your avitar.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 thanks brother, blessings 🙌🏻
Is the click really that loud, or is it because of the microphone? I have pretty good hearing and I can barely hear mine.
It really is loud enough to hear from the bumper. Before I moved the microphone it was over the grill. You should also see a spark if you look close and the light is low.
@@timsteachablemoments1786Wow! Thank you so much for responding. I’ve been trying to figure out why mine is so hard to start. I have to crank for 1 to 2 minutes for it to fire up if it’s been sitting for longer than a day. Subscribed!
@@22Platypus What fuel filter do you have? If you still have the stock Chevy/Fram you could have a leak in the base that is common on them. Thanks for subscribing.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 You are probably my right. I had issues with my injection pump a few years ago and replaced the fuel filter housing with a new, but same style rectangle one at the same time. I just ordered a new (spin on) one. Will report back soon. Thanks!
@@timsteachablemoments1786Not saying this to throw it in your face, just thought you’d like to know. I put a new fuel filter setup on and it made no difference. Started messing with the solenoid again and noticed the click had gotten even quieter. Took it out and noticed the plunger was quite stiff. Worked it back and forth and it got better, but still a bit crunchy. Then I realized I had noticed that the engine would run for about a second after I turned off the key and it all made sense. Ordered a new one and it seems to be fixed. Like I said, super appreciate you replying to me (multiple times, at that), so thought I’d report back. Thanks!
Il mio chevy van g20 6.2 diesel da freddo parte benissimo e da caldo non parte
Did all steps and did not start
Are you getting any smoke out the pipe while cranking? No smoke normally means no fuel. White smoke that is dirty looking normally means fuel and not enough heat. Check glow plugs.
T