You have the tool for retaining spring removal/installation on the end of the long handled brake tool at the beginning of the video. Notice the "enlarged" rounded end on one arm of the brake tool? Slide the end over the spring, rotate until the "hook" grabs the spring and rotate until the spring releases. That's why it's there! It fits precisely over the spring stud. On my brake tool, the other end of the long handle is hollowed out and is used to put the spring back in place. Get the point under the attaching end of the spring, place the hollowed end over the stud and lift until the spring slides down and locks in place. Much easier than using vise grips and pliers to maneuver those springs!
Thanks for the video. I used it before replacing my brakes. I found it important to keep the emergency brake cable connected to that bracket. My first brake job that got disconnected and it was a pain to get back on. Also, I used a quick grip vice for wood working to squeeze the brake pads together to get the drum back on. Worked fantastic. Thanks again.
Question - how hard is it to turn those rear wheels once the drums are off? When I turned the wheel with the tires on, it felt difficult but I figured it was just the brakes dragging. But now that the wheels and drums are off, it is still hard to turn. Does that seem like a rear differential problem of some sort or is that normal? I noticed that the brake lining on the shoes was thick but CRUMBLING. Had a similar problem on my 1965 Ford Galaxie. Damn Fords.
@@M70ACARRY I will check that out my 96 f-150 was in a flood after repairing all of the electrical damage I will need to rebuild the rear brakes never seen that before but I've probably never repaired a factory original set of rear brakes on a f-150 although I have replaced a lot of rear brakes on f-150s and the adjusters always work however I do appreciate any freely given knowledge like I said I will check this out I'm always trying to improve my work thank you
@@M70ACARRY I know what you mean but the service manual specifically states the shoe guide plate goes on first, the little wing thing. I think because the shoes may rub on it slightly it keeps them from snagging any springs or the self adjuster which actually is the mistake I made and it set itself harder rip
You have the tool for retaining spring removal/installation on the end of the long handled brake tool at the beginning of the video. Notice the "enlarged" rounded end on one arm of the brake tool? Slide the end over the spring, rotate until the "hook" grabs the spring and rotate until the spring releases. That's why it's there! It fits precisely over the spring stud. On my brake tool, the other end of the long handle is hollowed out and is used to put the spring back in place. Get the point under the attaching end of the spring, place the hollowed end over the stud and lift until the spring slides down and locks in place. Much easier than using vise grips and pliers to maneuver those springs!
Thanks for the video. I used it before replacing my brakes. I found it important to keep the emergency brake cable connected to that bracket. My first brake job that got disconnected and it was a pain to get back on. Also, I used a quick grip vice for wood working to squeeze the brake pads together to get the drum back on. Worked fantastic. Thanks again.
Dang bro you really came through on some new knowledge.....big thumbs up....👍👍👍
Push retaining spring and clip in,reach around back and turn the pin. Simple
Question - how hard is it to turn those rear wheels once the drums are off? When I turned the wheel with the tires on, it felt difficult but I figured it was just the brakes dragging. But now that the wheels and drums are off, it is still hard to turn. Does that seem like a rear differential problem of some sort or is that normal? I noticed that the brake lining on the shoes was thick but CRUMBLING. Had a similar problem on my 1965 Ford Galaxie. Damn Fords.
Do you have to move the adjuster in or can you just leave it where it was
thanks man, you just helped a 16 year old do his brakes lol, much appreciated
I've replaced front brake pads several times, but I've never done the rear brake shoes. How do you know when the rear brake shoes need to be replaced?
By the thickness of the friction material just like the front.
1:44 Wow, that rear shoe is THIN. You got maximum use from that one!
Thats how the truck was purchased...and somehow it passed state safety inspection like that
I hope you didn't put the adjusting cable back like it came off it goes on first followed by the 2 springs
Yup...it's in the wrong spot
it actually goes behind the little plate. The top pin has a machined recess for it.
@@M70ACARRY I will check that out my 96 f-150 was in a flood after repairing all of the electrical damage I will need to rebuild the rear brakes never seen that before but I've probably never repaired a factory original set of rear brakes on a f-150 although I have replaced a lot of rear brakes on f-150s and the adjusters always work however I do appreciate any freely given knowledge
like I said I will check this out I'm always trying to improve my work
thank you
@@M70ACARRY I know what you mean but the service manual specifically states the shoe guide plate goes on first, the little wing thing. I think because the shoes may rub on it slightly it keeps them from snagging any springs or the self adjuster which actually is the mistake I made and it set itself harder rip
Thanks for da help
HA where is the rest of thr video? You put a single shoe back on and then it ends..
Left tire?
El único video que me sirve y esta en ingles F
Use brake cleaner first!
Jesus get a tripod
Those is a video of nothing
Buy the correct tools. Hack if you don’t.