Great video and gave me the confidence to try to take the job on . . I had the tools, I had the replacement parts, I waited for the first two dry days in 6 months (and I'm not kidding) . . and set to it. I had decided (prior to starting) to change the anti-roll bar (sway bar if you on the other side of the pond) drop links too, as they had clearly seen better days. Taking the drop links off (as a minimum) will allow you better access to the front nut on the bottom of the shock-absorber. After three hours of "Man -v - Rusty Bolts" , I decided that it was beyond my doing a decent job as I'd only got one bolt off of one drop link by then . . . and had 7 more to do! Having done a fair bit of car mechanics over the years, skint a few knuckles and rounded a few bolt heads . . you gotta know when you should quit and fight another day 🤨. I can't tell you the number of time you get hours into a job to only then only find you haven't got the stubby 11/16th open ended spanner you need!! At least this "loss" was down to years of no maintenance . . not a lack of preparation. Took the cat to a local garage and they put the parts on . . and had to cut-off and replace x3 pins on the way . . . so good call. Please keep the great vids coming . . . they really are invaluable to us in deciding "can we do the job"😁
Haha it ain’t DIY if you didn’t have to run back to the auto parts store 3X or didn’t run into some dumb issue like rusty junk. I’m lucky and every time I buy an XJ I always buy the cleanest examples around for only $2-3K USD and under 100K miles. Let’s me avoid the project cars
Thank you for uploading this informative video. Please ignore silly comments from those who criticise for the most stupid reasons. I see you were very diplomatic in your response to him. He clearly needs to be led by the hand before he can do anything or think for himself. He has embarrassed himself for sure.
I wasn’t making an attempt to re-write the manufacturers manual haha, only wanted to give a clear cut visual to show folks how to do this step by step since no other video on TH-cam was remotely easy to follow. Thank you for your feedback and hope to put up more helpful Jaguar related content in the future.
@@manvsdetails You have done a good job with the video in getting good information across to those like myself who can benefit from watching......and that is what it is all about. I have a 2003 Jaguar XJ8 4.0 V8. It is a Japanese registered car re-imported back into the UK (Scotland). It has therefore only very minor spots of surface corrosion on the underside which was the big attraction to me in buying the car. I have owned several XJ's and other Jaguar models. I do what repairs I can myself..........and I have seldom found the need to use a torque wrench other than important engine and drivetrain work.
Hopefully it was an improvement from the other videos that were posted around this repair on TH-cam. Made it solely because the other ones were horrible and near impossible to follow.
Thanks to your video that's what it looks like. Good to know there is no snafus or gotchas while doing the work. Ran into too many of those in my past experience.
@@Jim-fe6glI made sure to do the job first before making the video on the right side before filming so that I could get through it without you guys having to see my “figure it out” live haha
Cheers for a very informative, visual descriptive of the job. I share others exasperation at pedantic comments about torque settings etc. To state the obvious, if you are desperate to get the torque setting, just take any nut off going up through the torque wrench scale(s) and you'll know won't you!! I'm gonna have to get this done on my recently acquired XJ8, so just knowing the tools (particularly the 15/16ths spanner) is great info. Keep 'em coming. Stoke Music Dude.
Checking the torque required to remove an old nut is not a good way to get the installation torque specifications at all. The old ones are likely to be corroded on and require significantly more force to remove than the install properly.
For example: 2001 Jaguar XJ (thus, this might applicable to the 1998-2003.5 model range) Nut - shock absorber to upper mounting (vehicles with adaptive damping) -- 16 to 18 Nm Nut - shock absorber to upper mounting (vehicles without adaptive damping) -- 30 to 40 Nm Source: Jaguar Technical Information System
For example: 2001 Jaguar XJ (thus, this might applicable to the 1998-2003.5 model range) Nut - shock absorber to upper mounting (vehicles with adaptive damping) -- 16 to 18 Nm Nut - shock absorber to upper mounting (vehicles without adaptive damping) -- 30 to 40 Nm Source: Jaguar Technical Information System
Great video and gave me the confidence to try to take the job on . . I had the tools, I had the replacement parts, I waited for the first two dry days in 6 months (and I'm not kidding) . . and set to it. I had decided (prior to starting) to change the anti-roll bar (sway bar if you on the other side of the pond) drop links too, as they had clearly seen better days. Taking the drop links off (as a minimum) will allow you better access to the front nut on the bottom of the shock-absorber.
After three hours of "Man -v - Rusty Bolts" , I decided that it was beyond my doing a decent job as I'd only got one bolt off of one drop link by then . . . and had 7 more to do! Having done a fair bit of car mechanics over the years, skint a few knuckles and rounded a few bolt heads . . you gotta know when you should quit and fight another day 🤨. I can't tell you the number of time you get hours into a job to only then only find you haven't got the stubby 11/16th open ended spanner you need!! At least this "loss" was down to years of no maintenance . . not a lack of preparation. Took the cat to a local garage and they put the parts on . . and had to cut-off and replace x3 pins on the way . . . so good call.
Please keep the great vids coming . . . they really are invaluable to us in deciding "can we do the job"😁
Haha it ain’t DIY if you didn’t have to run back to the auto parts store 3X or didn’t run into some dumb issue like rusty junk. I’m lucky and every time I buy an XJ I always buy the cleanest examples around for only $2-3K USD and under 100K miles. Let’s me avoid the project cars
Thank you for uploading this informative video. Please ignore silly comments from those who criticise for the most stupid reasons. I see you were very diplomatic in your response to him. He clearly needs to be led by the hand before he can do anything or think for himself. He has embarrassed himself for sure.
I wasn’t making an attempt to re-write the manufacturers manual haha, only wanted to give a clear cut visual to show folks how to do this step by step since no other video on TH-cam was remotely easy to follow. Thank you for your feedback and hope to put up more helpful Jaguar related content in the future.
@@manvsdetails You have done a good job with the video in getting good information across to those like myself who can benefit from watching......and that is what it is all about.
I have a 2003 Jaguar XJ8 4.0 V8. It is a Japanese registered car re-imported back into the UK (Scotland). It has therefore only very minor spots of surface corrosion on the underside which was the big attraction to me in buying the car. I have owned several XJ's and other Jaguar models. I do what repairs I can myself..........and I have seldom found the need to use a torque wrench other than important engine and drivetrain work.
@@jaguarladdie this is my 3rd 2000 XJ8 and all 3 had the same issue with the suspension being totally worn out. Excited to make my next Jag an XKR
@@manvsdetailsI have a 2008 XKR Convertible. Met grey / ivory leather.
Great video 👍
Greatly appreciate the feedback, always trying to improve the filming and editing skills to make it easy to duplicate at your own home.
very informative very clear video and well explained. Thank you.
Hopefully it was an improvement from the other videos that were posted around this repair on TH-cam. Made it solely because the other ones were horrible and near impossible to follow.
Simples - THANK YOU -- old git, UK
Thanks alot. Need to do that on mine. It's a 1999 XJ8L. Bushings are going but not as bad as yours. Liked and subscribed.
It’s such an easy job, can take a little as an hour to do both sides.
Thanks to your video that's what it looks like. Good to know there is no snafus or gotchas while doing the work. Ran into too many of those in my past experience.
@@Jim-fe6glI made sure to do the job first before making the video on the right side before filming so that I could get through it without you guys having to see my “figure it out” live haha
Greatly appreciate that! Makes the video very efficient and precise. 👍
Cheers for a very informative, visual descriptive of the job. I share others exasperation at pedantic comments about torque settings etc. To state the obvious, if you are desperate to get the torque setting, just take any nut off going up through the torque wrench scale(s) and you'll know won't you!!
I'm gonna have to get this done on my recently acquired XJ8, so just knowing the tools (particularly the 15/16ths spanner) is great info. Keep 'em coming. Stoke Music Dude.
I just bought my 4th XJ8 so I’ll have more videos up soon lol
Checking the torque required to remove an old nut is not a good way to get the installation torque specifications at all. The old ones are likely to be corroded on and require significantly more force to remove than the install properly.
For example: 2001 Jaguar XJ (thus, this might applicable to the 1998-2003.5 model range)
Nut - shock absorber to upper mounting (vehicles with adaptive damping) -- 16 to 18 Nm
Nut - shock absorber to upper mounting (vehicles without adaptive damping) -- 30 to 40 Nm
Source: Jaguar Technical Information System
@@bubingamakore3328 thanks for sharing that , a lot of folks will find that extremely helpful
Correction: 1998-2003 model range
I tried to take my mount off just a while ago and it's stuck on there any tips to get it
The mount is held on by the 10mm nuts around the base and then the bolt down the middle, what part of that is stuck?
😮
Waste of my time never said anything about the torque on any bolts.
I couldn’t find those details but I’m sure you might somewhere
Use your judgement and common sense.
For example: 2001 Jaguar XJ (thus, this might applicable to the 1998-2003.5 model range)
Nut - shock absorber to upper mounting (vehicles with adaptive damping) -- 16 to 18 Nm
Nut - shock absorber to upper mounting (vehicles without adaptive damping) -- 30 to 40 Nm
Source: Jaguar Technical Information System
Correction: 1998-2003 model range