Thanks you so much! At 100,000mi & having to replace the hose connecting the reservoir & rear MC, I wanted to pull the MC & rebuild the innards as long as I was in the neighborhood, but was hesitant to attack this project. Yours is the only shortcut I’ve found that would save significant time & headache getting to this buried little devil. 😊
Great help, thanks. If you have a Trike, it really helps to remove the battery box to provide you with a little extra hand room, and you may have to disassemble the Reservoir filler tube from the Cylinder prior to extracting it. The Inside Banjo Fitting does not have to be removed from the brake line, but the Rear Banjo does unless you have the the hand size of a toddler, or the patience of Job. Put the rear banjo on the master cylinder prior to sliding it back in to make it easier to install brake line without playing 'fetch the brass washer' 10 or 12 times. Also be prepared to do a little aluminum modification as it is not uncommon when the Trike is added to cover a required bolt rendering it impossible to remove (tin snippers may be required).
Good video ,I did mine a while ago but took the exhaust off ,what a pain .if I had seen your video before it would have saved me alot of time but now i know for next time , cheers 👍
Thanks for your vid! Just changed the guts on my master and going by your advice saved me a lot of trouble. Teflon tape all threads keeps water out and reduces rot. Banjo fitting needs to be properly aligned upon reinstall to prevent leaks. I found most of my brake bleeding efforts focused on the front left since that line has a hump in it that catches air. Eventually, it all comes out. Thanks Again!
***Everything went back together and is once again functioning as it should. Please note that the screw on top of the inlet nipple that I said couldn't be reached with a screwdriver, can in fact be unscrewed that way, by coming down from the top, behind the frame rail. I had to use a really long extended reach driver, but it is possible..***
!00% correct I love it !! Bravo !! Well Done !! However try.....this ...I have to ask, for why do you conclude it is bad ? Next time try this procedure first.........make sure very much you replace and bleed NEW DOT4 fluid very very well !!! then pump up as much as possible(if anything at all) maybe it offers no resistance, but pump 10 plus times, then on last pump hold down and keep down(with weight or jam stick to/from handle bar) last least 30 mins...... if even overnight, rebleed again(super slowly out the valve) and should have resistants.....this give back pressure in a hydraulic system. When you have no back PSI, you do NOT have a hydraulic system...... and if not then the long repair is eminently apparent. worth a try...esp if the bike sat in forever changing weather/temperatures.....been there done that and gut the T-shirt to prove it !!! LoL
I'm trying to do it this way but can't get to the back line. Not understanding what you said, "just flex the box wrench"? 2:17 What does that look like?
I'm calling bullshit on the nipple being the hard part... There is 0 room to get the rear brake line... I've been fighting with mine for a week now... Nothing reaches back to that rear line with any movement to do anything useful
I didn't say the nipple was the hard part. The nipple prevents you from being able to move the part into a position where you can get the other lines off. Took me about 2 hours to do this..
I've had enough of the 'skip the hard parts' so it looks easy. Tried it your was without success. I'll be watching the vids on how to do it dropping the exhaust.
I don't see that the applicable years of the bike mentioned. I have 1996 1500I, and things look different from this video. They also look different in the service manual.. Ive done, all three brake caliper rebuilds, the front brake and clutch master cylinders, the clutch slave cylinder. and Im ready to have Honda come get it to do the rear master.
I have been trying for 6month ofand on i have work on some pretty tuff stuff but this takes the cake. I will never ever own another pice of crap like this goldwing again . What a worthless pice garbage
The point of the video is to show that it can be done. Many people say that it can't, and that you must disassemble the exhaust and several other components. And no, it isn't easy....bvut you can do it..
@@gosolobox Thanks. My point is this generation of Goldwing goes from 87-2000. Parts are different. My passenger pedal is different and heat sheilds too. Im thankful you made the video. Im just not sure its applicable to other years..procedure is everything or you risk opening a can or worms. Some should just take it into the shop ..Ive already run into a messed up situation where one of the screws that holds the heat sheilds is stripped. And its buried.. So I ordered the socket to remove stripped bolts.. see what happens. Thats what Im talking about.. This project is not for all. lol
I am never going to have to work on this gold wing junk any more selling it. Rebuild about everything on it so far that it going to buy a good bike no more these Japanese over priced. Wait for ever mc parts. if your a American buy American nomore Japanese
Thanks you so much! At 100,000mi & having to replace the hose connecting the reservoir & rear MC, I wanted to pull the MC & rebuild the innards as long as I was in the neighborhood, but was hesitant to attack this project. Yours is the only shortcut I’ve found that would save significant time & headache getting to this buried little devil. 😊
Glad I was able to help
Good info. Thanks
Great help, thanks. If you have a Trike, it really helps to remove the battery box to provide you with a little extra hand room, and you may have to disassemble the Reservoir filler tube from the Cylinder prior to extracting it. The Inside Banjo Fitting does not have to be removed from the brake line, but the Rear Banjo does unless you have the the hand size of a toddler, or the patience of Job. Put the rear banjo on the master cylinder prior to sliding it back in to make it easier to install brake line without playing 'fetch the brass washer' 10 or 12 times. Also be prepared to do a little aluminum modification as it is not uncommon when the Trike is added to cover a required bolt rendering it impossible to remove (tin snippers may be required).
Good video ,I did mine a while ago but took the exhaust off ,what a pain .if I had seen your video before it would have saved me alot of time but now i know for next time , cheers 👍
Thanks for your vid! Just changed the guts on my master and going by your advice saved me a lot of trouble. Teflon tape all threads keeps water out and reduces rot. Banjo fitting needs to be properly aligned upon reinstall to prevent leaks. I found most of my brake bleeding efforts focused on the front left since that line has a hump in it that catches air. Eventually, it all comes out. Thanks Again!
Awesome! Glad to hear that the video helped someone..
Thanks for the info, changed the top nipple with much difficulty, glade to see it can be done!
***Everything went back together and is once again functioning as it should. Please note that the screw on top of the inlet nipple that I said couldn't be reached with a screwdriver, can in fact be unscrewed that way, by coming down from the top, behind the frame rail. I had to use a really long extended reach driver, but it is possible..***
Greetings,
As always another fantastic detailed video 🇺🇸🍾🎉🇺🇸
Keep producing more videos
!00% correct I love it !! Bravo !! Well Done !! However try.....this ...I have to ask, for why do you conclude it is bad ? Next time try this procedure first.........make sure very much you replace and bleed NEW DOT4 fluid very very well !!! then pump up as much as possible(if anything at all) maybe it offers no resistance, but pump 10 plus times, then on last pump hold down and keep down(with weight or jam stick to/from handle bar) last least 30 mins...... if even overnight, rebleed again(super slowly out the valve) and should have resistants.....this give back pressure in a hydraulic system. When you have no back PSI, you do NOT have a hydraulic system...... and if not then the long repair is eminently apparent. worth a try...esp if the bike sat in forever changing weather/temperatures.....been there done that and gut the T-shirt to prove it !!! LoL
I'm trying to do it this way but can't get to the back line. Not understanding what you said, "just flex the box wrench"? 2:17 What does that look like?
So how do you get the brake resovoir filler reattached? I cannot get to that screw
I changed mine to a allen head screw and used a flex driver, there is no easy way!
What was the symptom(s) that made you need to rebuid it? I have a spongey brake that I'm trying to fix now. Thanks
The master had failed completely.
What's your opinions,?could it be rebuilt in place. Isn't the plunger the part needed service?
That is actually a really interesting idea; could possibly save a lot of time..
Nice video 😎
Thank you
Nice
DO you have a video of how to remove the saddlebags for the GL1500?
I don't but Clifford does: th-cam.com/video/4WFrPuFfuXE/w-d-xo.html
How did you get the back line off
3608407139
I'm calling bullshit on the nipple being the hard part... There is 0 room to get the rear brake line... I've been fighting with mine for a week now... Nothing reaches back to that rear line with any movement to do anything useful
I didn't say the nipple was the hard part. The nipple prevents you from being able to move the part into a position where you can get the other lines off. Took me about 2 hours to do this..
I would have went ahead and replace the lines as well while you're in there.
I've had enough of the 'skip the hard parts' so it looks easy. Tried it your was without success. I'll be watching the vids on how to do it dropping the exhaust.
Knock yourself out, but it's not required... I've done it twice. I never said it was easy, I made the video because it's a pain in the ass..
I don't see that the applicable years of the bike mentioned. I have 1996 1500I, and things look different from this video. They also look different in the service manual.. Ive done, all three brake caliper rebuilds, the front brake and clutch master cylinders, the clutch slave cylinder. and Im ready to have Honda come get it to do the rear master.
I have been trying for 6month ofand on i have work on some pretty tuff stuff but this takes the cake. I will never ever own another pice of crap like this goldwing again . What a worthless pice garbage
that doesnt look easy either,..Many of the steps are missing, like getting the screws off for the heat sheilds,..the brake pedal and threaded rod
The point of the video is to show that it can be done. Many people say that it can't, and that you must disassemble the exhaust and several other components. And no, it isn't easy....bvut you can do it..
@@gosolobox Thanks. My point is this generation of Goldwing goes from 87-2000. Parts are different. My passenger pedal is different and heat sheilds too. Im thankful you made the video. Im just not sure its applicable to other years..procedure is everything or you risk opening a can or worms. Some should just take it into the shop ..Ive already run into a messed up situation where one of the screws that holds the heat sheilds is stripped. And its buried.. So I ordered the socket to remove stripped bolts.. see what happens. Thats what Im talking about.. This project is not for all. lol
I am never going to have to work on this gold wing junk any more selling it. Rebuild about everything on it so far that it going to buy a good bike no more these Japanese over priced. Wait for ever mc parts. if your a American buy American nomore Japanese