On my last camper after getting rid of all the rubbish underneath I used wax oil it lasted till I traded it for a new one the garage told me it was the best £30 spent 😅
I used waxoyl under my 1970s motorcycle mudguards. It literally shrivelled up and fell off. Not impressed TBH. I’m hoping Lanoguard grease does a better job.
@@Dave5843-d9m the waxoyl underneath was in all the box sections only I used old engine oil on the outside the only problem with that when it got warm it sometimes dripped on the driveway
Super video. Always enjoy the content. Rust around the nuts sound very painful. Whatever you do, do not apply Lanoguard. Apologies to you both couldn't resist the comment. Barn chain oil leaves like a wax barrier finish on whatever it is sprayed onto. Only needs to be done every 3-4 years unless you feel the need to do and have the energy. Works I guess like lanoguard but a lot cheaper. Have a great weekend under Herman and enjoy. Thank you.
Good, interesting video I dont have a camper but our cars get treated underneath fairly regularly I had to replace the radiator cradle on my wifes car 3 years ago and already the paint is peeling and the metal rusting, mainly I think because its made of very poor quality metal, I have repainted it twice in those 3 years! Meanwhile the actual engine cradle is 13 years old but still in perfect condition
I need to tackle this on our camper. Sadly there is rust (it’s a Transit!!) so I need to take care of that first. It’s gonna be a horrible job which I keep putting off. The time has come……!! Great vid Ads
On my ladder chassised Prado i've found marine grease to be the best covering when the rust has already started to gain hold, obviously apply grease after cleaning off the loose and treating with rust converter, paint it on all other heavy weather areas such as exposed inner sills, all body cavities have been treated with Bilt Hambers relevent aerosols. Grease will only need recoating every other year, also i give the undersides a blast over with ACF50 every summer, it's invaluable at creeping into gaps and seams and does a good job of making sure any bolts come undone easily and keeps any height sensors etc lubed, yes it washes off in the weather hence needs redoing every year but only takes about 20 minutes. Marine grease is cheap as chips, some others on my Landcruiser forum have experimented with chain lube spraying on the undersides, some makes are more sticky than others, again compared to the marketed anti rust products grease and chain lubes etc are very cheap. Of course the downsides are the vehicle is filthy to work on underneath, so maybe don't go the grease/oil route on vehicles known for needing regular repairs.
When I did Nessa I was under her with a angle grinder with a wire wheel as well as a needle gun, so I could get ride of any delaminated steel. I haven't been back under her this year, to see how she is doing. I will get under at some point and see how she's doing. I will look at Lanoguard as an additional layer of protection.
Problem with paint over cleaned previously delaminating rust is that it won’t stop the process. An oily substance will soak into the oxidation and protect the metal beneath.
I still haven't tackled Fudge 😮 but this year's project over the dry bits of winter is going to happen. Well done on your efforts and this time around. I am in the Lanoguard group and not keen on waxoyl as it does seem to hide things a bit
@@HermanHitstheRoad steal on a non level needs to absorb and de absorb moisture - with a coat of rubber paint the moisture is trapped and the rust becomes very aggressive. wax oil allows the moisture cycle
I guess your crossover was factory coated,and you put Waxoyl on top. It's the factory coating coming off,taking the Waxoyl with it.Not bad a problem on my vehicles.
@@HermanHitstheRoad Paint Zinc on bare metal, there is no better rust protection on the planet. You will need a Zinc specific paint to go over the top of it if you want to paint over it. Galvanizing is Zinc, and so on... Anything else is not as good as Zinc, because it works two ways, one electrochemically and two by covering . Other paint systems only work by covering, including grease and oils. Any tiny breakdown in that covering and the corrosion starts again. Zinc is different here because then the electrochemical action of it starts to protect the covering breakdown.
This should of been done when motorhome was about 10 years old or newer because its a little to late now ghe rust has started and will only get worse. Never mind you might add a few more years to life of under neath motorhome.
No, Harry. Lanoguard isn't a rust converter but it stops moisture and air getting to the metal. It also absorbs moisture from the surface of the metal. I hope that helps
@@HermanHitstheRoad Lanoguard is a con job pure and simple. If you want to prevent rust, firstly get the underside steam cleaned, then have any welding repairs carried out, next remove any loose rust with wire brush on an angle grinder and a needle gun. Treat all rusted areas with rust converter, and then epoxy primer. Finally coat all underbody areas with Dinitrol and enclosed box sections with Dinitrol cavity wax. Lanoguard is a complete waste of time and money, and will need to be removed with steam cleaning, before an effective underbody coating can be used.
@@battlebbot agree with you about the most effective process you’ve described to address corrosion. I’ve used Dinitrol for years, after I found Waxoyl to be increasingly ineffective. Can’t comment on Lanoguard, but I’ll stick with Dinitrol 😀
@bield7 The DIY products such as Lanoguard and Waxoyl, are mostly solvent to make application easier. It's not a good idea to rely on this type of thing as any sort of corrosion preventative.
Depending on how deep the rust is, but surface rust can be treated very effectively by treating with jenolite or similar. It's a rust converter which converts the rust (iron oxide) to iron tannate, if I'm not mistaken.
@@battlebbot It dries on to form a waxy textured finish, but you have to let it dry fully and it will withstand less up to 3000psi water but first wash the chassis well and allow to dry before applying. It has stopped chassis rust issues on my 32 year old Land Rover, and being clear doesn't let rust persist underneath like underseal type treatments. It is also a joy to apply compared to bitumen stuff.
@Defender200tdi Rubbish. The manufacturer suggests it has to be renewed regularly, and the majority of users find it washes off in puddles! It's mostly solvent, which makes it thin enough to spray through micky mouse hand pump sprays.
@@battlebbot It gets too thick to spray in the cold and the hand pump clogs. I use a paraffin gun and a small compressor. They also do a thick grease you apply with a brush and that is not going to wash off even before it dries, you have to stand the tub in hot water to get the stuff to move. If you let it dry thoroughly and have washed down the chassis and apply when dry you don't have issues with it washing off. Applying every year or 18 months is no big deal, costs 50 quid and takes 15-20 minutes. If you want fit and forget Corroless do a very good epoxy system, but then the prep alone takes hours and is impossible to do properly with the body on the chassis. All the users in my Landy club love the Lanoguard stuff, and they put it through it's paces more than most. As a side benefit it seems to restore rubber seals and bushes as well.
Not sure how good the Lanoguard is, but my, did you do an amazing preparation job in the chassis, Absolutely fantastic, amazing work.
Thanks @JohnThorpIreland 👍👍
I think it’s amazing how you look after Herman. Hope that you are able to fix the hole. Take care Gill
Thanks @Wheres_wanda_wandering 👍👍
Thanks mate. Love your vids, especially these more technical ones. I guess its because I can sympathise as mine is 21 years old. All the best.
Thanks @tommo9757 👍👍. Just keep on top of it
On my last camper after getting rid of all the rubbish underneath I used wax oil it lasted till I traded it for a new one the garage told me it was the best £30 spent 😅
That's great news, @anthonywallace8534 👍👍
I used waxoyl under my 1970s motorcycle mudguards. It literally shrivelled up and fell off. Not impressed TBH. I’m hoping Lanoguard grease does a better job.
@@Dave5843-d9m the waxoyl underneath was in all the box sections only I used old engine oil on the outside the only problem with that when it got warm it sometimes dripped on the driveway
Super video. Always enjoy the content. Rust around the nuts sound very painful. Whatever you do, do not apply Lanoguard. Apologies to you both couldn't resist the comment. Barn chain oil leaves like a wax barrier finish on whatever it is sprayed onto. Only needs to be done every 3-4 years unless you feel the need to do and have the energy. Works I guess like lanoguard but a lot cheaper. Have a great weekend under Herman and enjoy. Thank you.
Thanks @tstuart7333 👍👍. I'll remember not to apply Lanoguard to my nuts
Are you meaning bar and chain oil( chainsaw oil)?
Good, interesting video
I dont have a camper but our cars get treated underneath fairly regularly
I had to replace the radiator cradle on my wifes car 3 years ago and already the paint is peeling and the metal rusting, mainly I think because its made of very poor quality metal, I have repainted it twice in those 3 years!
Meanwhile the actual engine cradle is 13 years old but still in perfect condition
Thanks for commenting, @sandy7299 👍👍
I need to tackle this on our camper. Sadly there is rust (it’s a Transit!!) so I need to take care of that first. It’s gonna be a horrible job which I keep putting off. The time has come……!! Great vid Ads
Thanks @bathroomjon1 👍👍
On my ladder chassised Prado i've found marine grease to be the best covering when the rust has already started to gain hold, obviously apply grease after cleaning off the loose and treating with rust converter, paint it on all other heavy weather areas such as exposed inner sills, all body cavities have been treated with Bilt Hambers relevent aerosols.
Grease will only need recoating every other year, also i give the undersides a blast over with ACF50 every summer, it's invaluable at creeping into gaps and seams and does a good job of making sure any bolts come undone easily and keeps any height sensors etc lubed, yes it washes off in the weather hence needs redoing every year but only takes about 20 minutes.
Marine grease is cheap as chips, some others on my Landcruiser forum have experimented with chain lube spraying on the undersides, some makes are more sticky than others, again compared to the marketed anti rust products grease and chain lubes etc are very cheap.
Of course the downsides are the vehicle is filthy to work on underneath, so maybe don't go the grease/oil route on vehicles known for needing regular repairs.
Thanks for the tips, @lewlewis6511
Nice work 👍🏼
Thanks @scottl5028 👍👍
Treated my mini last year and this year.
At front where metal is thin and exposed to wind and rain etc, it requires a spray every several weeks,
Thanks for commenting, @cosmodog4845. Is that a "proper" mini? How old?
Good bottle of rust converter
Thanks for commenting, @TheTopG420
I spray on a mixture of Diesel oil and Miller's wax film - The diesel soaks into the metal and a waxy flim is left on the metal as it dries.
That sounds very messy and a fire hazard, @peterd.1165 ?
lol ,,, diesel is hygroscopic the wax floats trapping the moisture , thats the recipe for rust , try acf50.
Great stuff , I use it on the dub .. going do the Axle on the caravan soon .. cheers Chris & Sammy
What v-dub do you have, Chris and Sammy? I restored a 1973 VW Beetle some years ago
@@HermanHitstheRoad T4 caravelle… 24 yrs old … we luvit … Awesome on restore of a Beetle ..cheers Chris & Sammy
When I did Nessa I was under her with a angle grinder with a wire wheel as well as a needle gun, so I could get ride of any delaminated steel. I haven't been back under her this year, to see how she is doing. I will get under at some point and see how she's doing. I will look at Lanoguard as an additional layer of protection.
Great idea, @Simon_W74
Problem with paint over cleaned previously delaminating rust is that it won’t stop the process. An oily substance will soak into the oxidation and protect the metal beneath.
I still haven't tackled Fudge 😮 but this year's project over the dry bits of winter is going to happen. Well done on your efforts and this time around.
I am in the Lanoguard group and not keen on waxoyl as it does seem to hide things a bit
Looking forward to the dry bits of winter, @mk1photography62 but it'll also be cold 🥶
Ive gone back to waxoil. Main reason the price- waxoil is expensive. All these products have some use but its about how you apply the product
I'm not sure I follow you, @alunprice8537. Are you saying that you went back to using Waxoil because it's expensive ?🤔
wax oil is best - not the paint - oil allows the steel to breath, i am considering this lanoguard
You want the Buzzweld,non sticky alternative to Waxoyl.
Steel to breath, @AndyPipkin-dj8sy? That doesn't sound right - breathing = air = rust. Or have I got the wrong end of the stick, Andy?
@@HermanHitstheRoad steal on a non level needs to absorb and de absorb moisture - with a coat of rubber paint the moisture is trapped and the rust becomes very aggressive. wax oil allows the moisture cycle
I guess your crossover was factory coated,and you put Waxoyl on top. It's the factory coating coming off,taking the Waxoyl with it.Not bad a problem on my vehicles.
I think you're right, @keithhooper6123 but even so the water/rust still got through the under sealant
Zinc is your friend.
What do you mean, @paulmeersa7162?
@@HermanHitstheRoad Paint Zinc on bare metal, there is no better rust protection on the planet. You will need a Zinc specific paint to go over the top of it if you want to paint over it. Galvanizing is Zinc, and so on... Anything else is not as good as Zinc, because it works two ways, one electrochemically and two by covering . Other paint systems only work by covering, including grease and oils. Any tiny breakdown in that covering and the corrosion starts again. Zinc is different here because then the electrochemical action of it starts to protect the covering breakdown.
This should of been done when motorhome was about 10 years old or newer because its a little to late now ghe rust has started and will only get worse. Never mind you might add a few more years to life of under neath motorhome.
Thanks for commenting, @wontbelongnow5567
I'd get that radiator looked at it looks like it's splitting
Thanks @justso1823. I'll take a look
So you are saying Lanoguard does not stop the vehicle rusting it just looks good.
No, Harry. Lanoguard isn't a rust converter but it stops moisture and air getting to the metal. It also absorbs moisture from the surface of the metal. I hope that helps
@@HermanHitstheRoad Lanoguard is a con job pure and simple. If you want to prevent rust, firstly get the underside steam cleaned, then have any welding repairs carried out, next remove any loose rust with wire brush on an angle grinder and a needle gun. Treat all rusted areas with rust converter, and then epoxy primer. Finally coat all underbody areas with Dinitrol and enclosed box sections with Dinitrol cavity wax. Lanoguard is a complete waste of time and money, and will need to be removed with steam cleaning, before an effective underbody coating can be used.
@@battlebbot agree with you about the most effective process you’ve described to address corrosion. I’ve used Dinitrol for years, after I found Waxoyl to be increasingly ineffective. Can’t comment on Lanoguard, but I’ll stick with Dinitrol 😀
@harryboy3305 it doesn't even look good after a few weeks a good deal of it has washed off.
@bield7 The DIY products such as Lanoguard and Waxoyl, are mostly solvent to make application easier. It's not a good idea to rely on this type of thing as any sort of corrosion preventative.
Depending on how deep the rust is, but surface rust can be treated very effectively by treating with jenolite or similar. It's a rust converter which converts the rust (iron oxide) to iron tannate, if I'm not mistaken.
Thanks for the info, @TyronePatOne
I swear by Lanoguard. Get yourself a paraffin gun and a small compressor, much easier on the hand than the trigger pump.
Lanoguard washes off, and is just about the most hopeless rust preventative o the market.
@@battlebbot It dries on to form a waxy textured finish, but you have to let it dry fully and it will withstand less up to 3000psi water but first wash the chassis well and allow to dry before applying. It has stopped chassis rust issues on my 32 year old Land Rover, and being clear doesn't let rust persist underneath like underseal type treatments. It is also a joy to apply compared to bitumen stuff.
@Defender200tdi Rubbish. The manufacturer suggests it has to be renewed regularly, and the majority of users find it washes off in puddles!
It's mostly solvent, which makes it thin enough to spray through micky mouse hand pump sprays.
@@battlebbot It gets too thick to spray in the cold and the hand pump clogs. I use a paraffin gun and a small compressor. They also do a thick grease you apply with a brush and that is not going to wash off even before it dries, you have to stand the tub in hot water to get the stuff to move.
If you let it dry thoroughly and have washed down the chassis and apply when dry you don't have issues with it washing off.
Applying every year or 18 months is no big deal, costs 50 quid and takes 15-20 minutes.
If you want fit and forget Corroless do a very good epoxy system, but then the prep alone takes hours and is impossible to do properly with the body on the chassis. All the users in my Landy club love the Lanoguard stuff, and they put it through it's paces more than most. As a side benefit it seems to restore rubber seals and bushes as well.
@Defender200tdi Why use crap like Lanoguard when professional products that work well are easily available?
Road salt is a van or cars enemy 😢
Yes, and there is plenty of is in the UK, @anthonywallace8534
Rust is like cancer once its spread no stopping it
Thanks for the advice, @waynefoster7738
Its far to expensive for what it is!
Thanks for commenting, @karldingbat
Rubbish product
Thanks for commenting, @buffi944