Great to see your work Don. I hope your business is doing well! Since moving to PA I've been getting into flintlocks and 18th century crafts! This is Earl from KSI by the way.
Great to hear from you. I just received multiple box's of flintlock parts, original and reproduction. Let me know if you need anything. Thanks for commenting.
Why you dont use a steel cabinet scraper for the old finish removal ? That's the Mark Novak ( Anvill ) method, I tried it and it works a lot better than sanding paper.
I am sure it's all good, this is actually one of the methods I was shown when I was trained by two master Gunsmiths over 20 years ago, yes, I have changed the process over the years to add my own experience and twist to my original training, I'm pretty sure I'm the only one that wet sands this type of finish, it comes from when I used to paint cars. I'm sure you have your methods that work. I know this method works for me, it is only one of the many, many ways a gunstock can be refinished. I have no doubt you have done some beautiful work over the years. I would love to see some of your techniques and learn from them as well, please email me links to some videos I would love to watch. Always be open to learn and grow in your chosen path. I learn every day that get up and go into the shop, then the next day I try to apply the good things learned to the next day of work. Thanks for watching, I hope you tune in for more videos and continue to share your thoughts.
It is a good idea. And I sometimes do. I have found that the bulk of the tape can make it difficult for me to sand as close to the checkering and maintain the control I like. It’s just faster for me to clean up any sanding overruns when I recut the border than remasking when sanding. I appreciated your comment. And observation.
Not a lot of folks appreciate how tough it can be to recut, refurbish, or replace worn or damaged checkering. The stock in your vid was a pretty mild examples. Show an old model 70 that's been "rode hard and put away wet" that's had the checkering drug across granite or lava rocks.... I gave up trying to please people. Now I do my own, mostly pawn shop refugees and forlorn stuff off the back rows of used racks. I make ME happy, so I've pretty much gone exclusively to oil finishes. I don't have to keep a shop open, or pay a light bill by turning out product anymore.
@@darreldwalton8763 Thanks for your comments, these video's I put up are work I do for my customers. So yes, I enjoy an oil rubbed finish as well, and if time or money were not a factor everyone would opt for a nice pores filled oil rubbed finish. I present costs and options to my customers, and we pick a process that is within their budget and provide the look and finish that will work for them. I have stocks I finished similarly to this one and have hunted with them for 20 years and they have held up well. Keeping a shop open is a an important goal as well.
@Turnbullcustomguns Don't get me wrong. My most favorite, "Ol' Death and Destruction ", a Husqvarna 270, I shot with rattle can urethane, then freshened the checkering, as you did. It's only lasted since, oh, about 1994, a divorce present to myself. Ain't skeered to try anything once!
@tobiassauer7883 I have been contemplating how to reply to this comment, there are as many ways to refinish a firearm it seems, as politicians trying to take away our 2nd amendment rights. There are also as many different finishes to go with them. The finish choice is determined by the original finish on the gun, the owner of the gun, and his intended use. No, I would not refinish a Purdey double barrel rifle in this manner or a vintage Winchester, this rifle is not to be compared to those standards. Regardless of the value of the gun I still take the time to make sure edges are not rounded stock lines remain straight, Checkering borders are crisp and clean and wood is not removed in excess. The proof of a properly refinished firearm is in the end result, personal satisfaction of a job well done, and customers that are happy with the cost and the final appearance. As for Durability... I have two guns I have hunted with for the last 20 years with this same finish, prepared the same way. No chipping, No pealing, and no water absorption.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 78 | คู่เอก "ปกรณ์ vs ฟาบิโอ"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LSOmgl0Th2c/mqdefault.jpg)
What a great video...and the end was very sweet!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Very nice y'all! I have this same Rifle (1997 Rem.Classic in 280 Rem.) Great job!
Thanks, Great Caliber!
Nice job on the stock sir
Thanks! and thanks for watching!
Great to see your work Don. I hope your business is doing well! Since moving to PA I've been getting into flintlocks and 18th century crafts! This is Earl from KSI by the way.
Great to hear from you. I just received multiple box's of flintlock parts, original and reproduction. Let me know if you need anything. Thanks for commenting.
Nice job.
Thank you. Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment. And thanks for watching.
Great job. Best wishes to birthday girl. 🎉
Why you dont use a steel cabinet scraper for the old finish removal ?
That's the Mark Novak ( Anvill ) method, I tried it and it works a lot better than sanding paper.
I may give that a try. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment!
Excellent job.
Thank you very much!
Thank you!
I enjoyed the Peanuts-like music.
Thanks. It made me chuckle when I put it in the video. Thanks for watching.
Not sure about this, I have been making and refinishing for near on 30 years, so much happening hers, not sure if all of it is good.
I am sure it's all good, this is actually one of the methods I was shown when I was trained by two master Gunsmiths over 20 years ago, yes, I have changed the process over the years to add my own experience and twist to my original training, I'm pretty sure I'm the only one that wet sands this type of finish, it comes from when I used to paint cars. I'm sure you have your methods that work. I know this method works for me, it is only one of the many, many ways a gunstock can be refinished. I have no doubt you have done some beautiful work over the years. I would love to see some of your techniques and learn from them as well, please email me links to some videos I would love to watch. Always be open to learn and grow in your chosen path. I learn every day that get up and go into the shop, then the next day I try to apply the good things learned to the next day of work. Thanks for watching, I hope you tune in for more videos and continue to share your thoughts.
very nice. how much does something like this cost?
shoot me an e-mail tcgarms@gmail.com on what you have and I'll give you a rough estimate. Thanks for watching.
What lubricant do you prefer to use when wet sanding? Final result looks flawless!
On this one I just used water... On a more recent one I have used Ballistol. Thanks for watching.
You should mask off the checkering first!
It is a good idea. And I sometimes do. I have found that the bulk of the tape can make it difficult for me to sand as close to the checkering and maintain the control I like. It’s just faster for me to clean up any sanding overruns when I recut the border than remasking when sanding. I appreciated your comment. And observation.
Not a lot of folks appreciate how tough it can be to recut, refurbish, or replace worn or damaged checkering. The stock in your vid was a pretty mild examples. Show an old model 70 that's been "rode hard and put away wet" that's had the checkering drug across granite or lava rocks.... I gave up trying to please people. Now I do my own, mostly pawn shop refugees and forlorn stuff off the back rows of used racks. I make ME happy, so I've pretty much gone exclusively to oil finishes. I don't have to keep a shop open, or pay a light bill by turning out product anymore.
@@darreldwalton8763 Thanks for your comments, these video's I put up are work I do for my customers. So yes, I enjoy an oil rubbed finish as well, and if time or money were not a factor everyone would opt for a nice pores filled oil rubbed finish. I present costs and options to my customers, and we pick a process that is within their budget and provide the look and finish that will work for them. I have stocks I finished similarly to this one and have hunted with them for 20 years and they have held up well. Keeping a shop open is a an important goal as well.
@Turnbullcustomguns Don't get me wrong. My most favorite, "Ol' Death and Destruction ", a Husqvarna 270, I shot with rattle can urethane, then freshened the checkering, as you did. It's only lasted since, oh, about 1994, a divorce present to myself. Ain't skeered to try anything once!
What did you dilute the urethane with?
Mineral Spirits, but always check the manufactures recommendation on the finish you are using.
Nope …how not to finish a stock
Curious to know the correct way then?
@tobiassauer7883 I have been contemplating how to reply to this comment, there are as many ways to refinish a firearm it seems, as politicians trying to take away our 2nd amendment rights. There are also as many different finishes to go with them. The finish choice is determined by the original finish on the gun, the owner of the gun, and his intended use. No, I would not refinish a Purdey double barrel rifle in this manner or a vintage Winchester, this rifle is not to be compared to those standards. Regardless of the value of the gun I still take the time to make sure edges are not rounded stock lines remain straight, Checkering borders are crisp and clean and wood is not removed in excess. The proof of a properly refinished firearm is in the end result, personal satisfaction of a job well done, and customers that are happy with the cost and the final appearance. As for Durability... I have two guns I have hunted with for the last 20 years with this same finish, prepared the same way. No chipping, No pealing, and no water absorption.
@@Turnbullcustomguns great response!