I am in process of replacing valve cover gaskets for my neighbor's 2003 Explorer. That insulation in the middle will not be replaced. Mouse nest had been burrowed into it while it sat over last two years. Lots of corrosion as well. All will cleaned and treated before reassembly. Thank you for this video as it helped me get that last "impossible" bolt today.
Awesome video which is more than sufficient to give me confidence to finish the job. Just 3 nitpicks: 1. I don't benefit much from the 6x speed segments, it just causes me to become dizzy. I would suggest either cutting those segments all together or just let the user decide whether they want to speed past a segment. If you just think speed segments are the bomb and have to leave them in then... 2. Add chapters as a courtesy for viewers so they can skip past speed segments 3. I'm not sure but I don't think you ever explained how you got the EGR valve back into place. It would have been nice to have a conclusion on that issue. Still, these are just nitpicks. Great video for learning how to do this difficult task. Thank You!
Watched another video, he didn’t tell me how impossible that rear bolt on the upper intake would be without removing other stuff. So I spent about 2-3 hours busting my knuckles to get it out. I guess he was replacing the hardware on the upper intake because he removed the bolts entirely from the upper so I thought I should too, which caused a ton of headache lol. I wish I came here first. Anyway, thanks so much for clearing up my confusions. I appreciate you
i just did this job, i wasnt able to replace the non leaking passenger side on the car because the nut at the egr tube was basically mechanically welded and it wasnt having it. A easy way to fix that is to cut the tube near the nut and just buy the new tube for like 45 dollars, you will be able to use a socket over the cut pipe to get the old one off. Bending works, i was working on someone elses car and didnt have the luxury of risking bending, valve cover will not come off without bending it or removing the tube. Also a trick for that back intake bolt is to use 1/4" drive extensions and the torx bit, and feel for the fastener going up the retainer step until you reach what feels like the tip of the fastener since you are pretty much blind back there. Good video
Thanks brother also in the middle of it, had a lengthy pause and needed to get my head back in it and this was very helpful and straight forward, appreitiate it!
That’s the hard part is just getting the drive to do it, it’s kinda like eating an elephant one bite at a time, eventually it gets done if you stay on it
An absolute great video. I’ve been waiting for this video. Keep doing what you’ve been doing. I’m sure you’re helping a lot of people. Thanks a lot, sir👍
Thanks for the video, I like the straight forward approach. I was wondering if at 12:10 those pieces you replace are those the round separates pieces that come with valve cover gasket?
Those round rings replace the existing ones on the valve cover hold-down bolts. Easy enough to pry the old ones off and put new ones on. They are a big part of the upgrade as those can deteriorate and leak over time.
Yeah I couldn’t get mine off so I just bent it manually. Also had to take off the passenger fuel rail for the valve cover to come off. Now I’ll see how to put it all back
I just subbed because I like the way you talk, and how well you made this video. One question: is that Chain at the back of the engine, under the Passenger Valve Cover, for the Oil Pump? [I imagine that's what that is.... Ford...]
Sure you can order at Oreilly's auto. They come in packs of 4 so order enough to do your job. www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/fel-pro/fel-pro-fuel-injector-o-ring-set/fel0/es70599/v/a/5265/automotive-suv-2003-ford-explorer?q=fuel+injector+o+ring&pos=0
great video, thanks for showing some of the possible headaches. now i won't feel crazy if i run into them. one question, would pulling off the heater hose (at the front of the engine bay) pose a risk of damaging them? they look like a pain.
If yours are in question (or old) you can definitely pull them off and plan on replacing them. But if they have been replaced in the last few years, then just push them out of the way and work around them. Mine were OK so I just worked around them.
I did this. Took it apart and reinstalled. But now when I started the truck, there was gas leaking from the right inner side of intake. I can’t tell if it’s a no good tightening or it’s coming from valve cover ?
Gas leaking is your fuel injector rail is probably not sitting flush against the injectors. See if you can get in there with a light and look for any leaks around an injector or puddle of gas in that area. Did you loosen or remove the fuel rails? It could simply be a fuel injector o-ring is torn/split causing the problem. However you must remove the upper intake and that fuel rail to diagnose and repair.
@ thanks that helps. I figured. I didn’t remove any file rails though. Just the fuel sensor on top of rail. So i think it is the ring that gave out. There was/is small puddles under manifold.
I have to do this on my 07 with minimal tools. I'm confident I am capable of completing the task but I have to buy tools and parts to complete the job. Is it worth it or should I just take it to a shop?
@@98saleen well I did it took a couple days help from my son and girlfriend. I twisted the EGR pipe up because I didn't realize it's sandwiched between the the nut and bolt it was easy after I broke the two loose. More plugs hoses and whatnot to disconnect then nuts and bolts. My 3/8 and 1/2 ratchet broke while putting it back together but I managed.Cleaned up the engine compartment some as well. Quiet the task but we did it thanks for the reassurance and some insight beforehand.👍
I have a 2003 mountaineer with 230k on it that I am almost certain needs new valve cover gaskets due to a leak. Is it really worth doing it? On a scale of 1 - 10 how difficult was this repair and what did it take you from start to finish?
It is tedious, meticulous, and will test your patience. If you take notes, take your time, and short breaks when needed it can be done in an afternoon.
Amazing video. I had a question if you can help me plz . When i run the A.C in my car it makes a loud like humming or roaring noise when accelerating 🤔then goes away
Could it be the radiator cooling fan? That would be my first thought. If you have the factory cooling fan attached to the engine, it should have a clutch between the actual fan and the water pump pulley. This has a bulit-in thermostat that will allow the fan to lock and unlock to turn slower or faster based on the vehicle temp. If it is staying locked at higher miles per hour, it will be noisy and sound like a jet engine under the hood. This means the fan clutch is going bad and needs replacement. Those can be purchased here for about $70 - www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/murray-temperature-control/engine-cooling/fan-clutch/eaffd2dd4db4/murray-temperature-control-thermal-fan-clutch/odn0/2776/v/a/5265/automotive-suv-2003-ford-explorer?q=fan+clutch&pos=0
Bro could you just remove that piece of foam underneath the intake? Seems like it would make the engine run a little hotter, and probably doesn’t stop that much noise at all
I know everyone likes to comment, first you did a great job on that repair. But why not take all the injectors off and clean them while you have all that out of the way. That way you can get to the bottom side of the injector for the o-ring there. Have a great day.
I actually did pull the injectors, clean them on the bench, and put the new orings on them. Just didn't want the video to be too long and focus on the valve covers mostly.
If you need valve cover bolts you'll have to check the thread pitch (some are 8mm and some are 1/4-20). You can probably pick up a set of bolts at a local hardware store cheap and just reuse your factory rubber isolators. Here's a link to a ford part but you'll have to verify the thread - www.amazon.com/Ford-7L1Z-6C519-Engine-Valve-Grommet/dp/B000O0UKRE/ref=sr_1_13?crid=ESJMIF346FT0&keywords=Engine+valve+cover+Isolator+Bolt+for+ford+explorer&qid=1672180686&s=automotive&sprefix=engine+valve+cover+isolator+bolt+for+ford+explorer%2Cautomotive%2C115&sr=1-13
That sucks! Hopefully you will find something simple such as unplugged or mismatch connection between injectors or wiring to spark plugs to sort this out. Also check if you happened to break any wires or have connections that aren't being pushed in solid/firmly.
This truck has been a pain in the rear I been putting money into it and the main issues I been meaning to fix is the servos and replace the timing chain guide and tensioners
I’m getting ready to replace the valve cover gaskets on my 2010 Explorer. You mentioned replacing fuel rail brings but didn’t list a part number for them. Do you have that info? Thanks
I am in process of replacing valve cover gaskets for my neighbor's 2003 Explorer. That insulation in the middle will not be replaced. Mouse nest had been burrowed into it while it sat over last two years. Lots of corrosion as well. All will cleaned and treated before reassembly. Thank you for this video as it helped me get that last "impossible" bolt today.
Awesome video which is more than sufficient to give me confidence to finish the job. Just 3 nitpicks:
1. I don't benefit much from the 6x speed segments, it just causes me to become dizzy. I would suggest either cutting those segments all together or just let the user decide whether they want to speed past a segment.
If you just think speed segments are the bomb and have to leave them in then...
2. Add chapters as a courtesy for viewers so they can skip past speed segments
3. I'm not sure but I don't think you ever explained how you got the EGR valve back into place. It would have been nice to have a conclusion on that issue.
Still, these are just nitpicks. Great video for learning how to do this difficult task. Thank You!
Good luck @batman979
Also, awesome no filthy cussin in any of this, very professional repair with the sharing of wisdom greatly appreciated
Thanks!
Hell, I like cussin. Ford will make you cuss. 🔧🤬🔨
Watched another video, he didn’t tell me how impossible that rear bolt on the upper intake would be without removing other stuff. So I spent about 2-3 hours busting my knuckles to get it out. I guess he was replacing the hardware on the upper intake because he removed the bolts entirely from the upper so I thought I should too, which caused a ton of headache lol. I wish I came here first. Anyway, thanks so much for clearing up my confusions. I appreciate you
Glad it was helpful on your project!
I'm in the middle of doing this same thing. Thanks for the video, it's been some help.
Good luck!
i just did this job, i wasnt able to replace the non leaking passenger side on the car because the nut at the egr tube was basically mechanically welded and it wasnt having it. A easy way to fix that is to cut the tube near the nut and just buy the new tube for like 45 dollars, you will be able to use a socket over the cut pipe to get the old one off. Bending works, i was working on someone elses car and didnt have the luxury of risking bending, valve cover will not come off without bending it or removing the tube.
Also a trick for that back intake bolt is to use 1/4" drive extensions and the torx bit, and feel for the fastener going up the retainer step until you reach what feels like the tip of the fastener since you are pretty much blind back there.
Good video
Thanks brother also in the middle of it, had a lengthy pause and needed to get my head back in it and this was very helpful and straight forward, appreitiate it!
Good to hear. Sometimes finding motivation in crazy places makes all the difference in finishing up a project!
That’s the hard part is just getting the drive to do it, it’s kinda like eating an elephant one bite at a time, eventually it gets done if you stay on it
An absolute great video. I’ve been waiting for this video. Keep doing what you’ve been doing. I’m sure you’re helping a lot of people. Thanks a lot, sir👍
Thank you! Will do!
Thanks for the video, I like the straight forward approach. I was wondering if at 12:10 those pieces you replace are those the round separates pieces that come with valve cover gasket?
Those round rings replace the existing ones on the valve cover hold-down bolts. Easy enough to pry the old ones off and put new ones on. They are a big part of the upgrade as those can deteriorate and leak over time.
That EGR tube sucks. Great video. Thanks brother.
Yeah I couldn’t get mine off so I just bent it manually. Also had to take off the passenger fuel rail for the valve cover to come off. Now I’ll see how to put it all back
Always great instructional videos!
Thanks Mike, appreciate it.
I just subbed because I like the way you talk, and how well you made this video.
One question: is that Chain at the back of the engine, under the Passenger Valve Cover, for the Oil Pump?
[I imagine that's what that is.... Ford...]
Thanks for subbin! Appreciate the feedback. The chain under the valve cover is for the cam which turns by the crankshaft.
For a really slow oil leak, can you just tighten down the valve cover a little bit?
You can try. But if it's leaking already due to a deteriorated gasket, it might make the leak worse.
What’s the part number for new intake manifold bolts? Can’t find them anywhere. Great video thanks!
If you need replacement bolts, these should work - www.amazon.com/Dorman-55164-Intake-Manifold-Isolator/dp/B001FHZYBM
Junkyard
In the video you mentioned replacing the fuel rail orings. Do you have a part number for those?
Sure you can order at Oreilly's auto. They come in packs of 4 so order enough to do your job. www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/fel-pro/fel-pro-fuel-injector-o-ring-set/fel0/es70599/v/a/5265/automotive-suv-2003-ford-explorer?q=fuel+injector+o+ring&pos=0
Nice! Thank you!
great video, thanks for showing some of the possible headaches. now i won't feel crazy if i run into them.
one question, would pulling off the heater hose (at the front of the engine bay) pose a risk of damaging them? they look like a pain.
If yours are in question (or old) you can definitely pull them off and plan on replacing them. But if they have been replaced in the last few years, then just push them out of the way and work around them. Mine were OK so I just worked around them.
Great video! What did you do to relieve the fuel pressure? Thanks!
You can pull the fuel pump fuse and let the vehicle run to effectively run out of gas as that is a quick and easy method.
Thanks for post the driver side wire on top was the last thing I did not understand it did not have the wire clip you removed. tks 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I did this. Took it apart and reinstalled. But now when I started the truck, there was gas leaking from the right inner side of intake. I can’t tell if it’s a no good tightening or it’s coming from valve cover ?
Gas leaking is your fuel injector rail is probably not sitting flush against the injectors. See if you can get in there with a light and look for any leaks around an injector or puddle of gas in that area. Did you loosen or remove the fuel rails? It could simply be a fuel injector o-ring is torn/split causing the problem. However you must remove the upper intake and that fuel rail to diagnose and repair.
@ thanks that helps. I figured. I didn’t remove any file rails though. Just the fuel sensor on top of rail. So i think it is the ring that gave out. There was/is small puddles under manifold.
Hey buddy.. where did you take all the screws out of. I can only find 7 please help me asap
Should be able to determine based on this from @5:00 on .
Great video and thanks fot posting. I have a question. Do you have to remove the intake manifold if you're just doing the drivers side?
Yes you do
I think also you could just pull the fuse for the fuel pump, start the engine and let it run out of fuel to relieve the pressure also?
I got over 300,000 on my Explorer, love my Explorer
I have to do this on my 07 with minimal tools. I'm confident I am capable of completing the task but I have to buy tools and parts to complete the job. Is it worth it or should I just take it to a shop?
It's definitely worth it doing yourself. You can save hundreds in labor alone and you will get the satisfaction of fixing it yourself! Good luck!
@@98saleen well I did it took a couple days help from my son and girlfriend. I twisted the EGR pipe up because I didn't realize it's sandwiched between the the nut and bolt it was easy after I broke the two loose. More plugs hoses and whatnot to disconnect then nuts and bolts. My 3/8 and 1/2 ratchet broke while putting it back together but I managed.Cleaned up the engine compartment some as well. Quiet the task but we did it thanks for the reassurance and some insight beforehand.👍
How did you let the pressure off the fuel line that you said you were going to have to do to disconnect the fuel line
I have a 2003 mountaineer with 230k on it that I am almost certain needs new valve cover gaskets due to a leak. Is it really worth doing it? On a scale of 1 - 10 how difficult was this repair and what did it take you from start to finish?
Yes. It was difficult, but easily accomplished in an afternoon. I've had zero leaks since I did this mod weeks ago!
It is tedious, meticulous, and will test your patience.
If you take notes, take your time, and short breaks when needed it can be done in an afternoon.
How much would labor be on something like this?
I would assume most shops/dealerships would expect a full day for this job so I would guess about 6 to 8 hours labor.
4 hours for my dealership
Amazing video. I had a question if you can help me plz . When i run the A.C in my car it makes a loud like humming or roaring noise when accelerating 🤔then goes away
Could it be the radiator cooling fan? That would be my first thought. If you have the factory cooling fan attached to the engine, it should have a clutch between the actual fan and the water pump pulley. This has a bulit-in thermostat that will allow the fan to lock and unlock to turn slower or faster based on the vehicle temp. If it is staying locked at higher miles per hour, it will be noisy and sound like a jet engine under the hood. This means the fan clutch is going bad and needs replacement. Those can be purchased here for about $70 - www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/murray-temperature-control/engine-cooling/fan-clutch/eaffd2dd4db4/murray-temperature-control-thermal-fan-clutch/odn0/2776/v/a/5265/automotive-suv-2003-ford-explorer?q=fan+clutch&pos=0
@@98saleen ahh that makes sense ! I appreciate the response and help 🙏 will def replace that too this weekend. Ty!
Not a problem. Good luck and let me know if that helps!
Vacuum diaphragm on lower passenger side of engine.
How easy it is to do the job ? Thinking about doing it myself to save some money $700-860
Hi, do you have any idea why Ford has those long shafts on the valve cover bolts that stop you from using a normal socket on them.
No but it can make it challenging!
What is the torque of the intake manifold bolts.
89 lb-in OR 7.5 lb-ft
I have to do this like soon 😅
Bro could you just remove that piece of foam underneath the intake? Seems like it would make the engine run a little hotter, and probably doesn’t stop that much noise at all
Yes you can especially if it’s excessively dirty or oily.
Thanks nice video
Glad it helped. Thanks for the feedback!
I know everyone likes to comment, first you did a great job on that repair. But why not take all the injectors off and clean them while you have all that out of the way. That way you can get to the bottom side of the injector for the o-ring there. Have a great day.
I actually did pull the injectors, clean them on the bench, and put the new orings on them. Just didn't want the video to be too long and focus on the valve covers mostly.
Hello, what’s the part number for the valves cover set of bolts?
www.amazon.com/Dorman-55164-Intake-Manifold-Isolator/dp/B001FHZYBM
@@98saleen thanks . are the bolts the same for the manifold and the valve covers?
If you need valve cover bolts you'll have to check the thread pitch (some are 8mm and some are 1/4-20). You can probably pick up a set of bolts at a local hardware store cheap and just reuse your factory rubber isolators. Here's a link to a ford part but you'll have to verify the thread - www.amazon.com/Ford-7L1Z-6C519-Engine-Valve-Grommet/dp/B000O0UKRE/ref=sr_1_13?crid=ESJMIF346FT0&keywords=Engine+valve+cover+Isolator+Bolt+for+ford+explorer&qid=1672180686&s=automotive&sprefix=engine+valve+cover+isolator+bolt+for+ford+explorer%2Cautomotive%2C115&sr=1-13
Thanks for helping
I did this on my friend's 2006 Explorer and now it misfires on cylinders 1, 2, and 3.
That sucks! Hopefully you will find something simple such as unplugged or mismatch connection between injectors or wiring to spark plugs to sort this out. Also check if you happened to break any wires or have connections that aren't being pushed in solid/firmly.
@98saleen problem solved the next day. I did a tune-up too, and accidentally crossed plug wires to #4 and #5 cylinders.
I trust myself to do this on my own I just don't like working on a couple hour jobs by the street aince I got no garage
Yeah that would be a tough decision especially depending on the weather conditions!
This truck has been a pain in the rear I been putting money into it and the main issues I been meaning to fix is the servos and replace the timing chain guide and tensioners
I’m getting ready to replace the valve cover gaskets on my 2010 Explorer.
You mentioned replacing fuel rail brings but didn’t list a part number for them. Do you have that info? Thanks
Safety first!!!!👍🏿😂
Man they make it over complicated its definitely not as easy as it use to be
Agreed!