Than You! I asked a number of people online how to go about making one of these. The only answers I got were long lectures on how important a touchmark is to identify your work and how you need to be careful to not over harden the stamp. Long lectures that answered none of the specifics. Again, Thank You!
Hello sir, what a joy it is to watch a person workin their craft...what a master u are...thank u sir...I’m going to have my wife’s cabin in the woods built here in Colorado and our bed room and living room will all be wrought iron.even the front porch railings will be iron...I am designing them myself.
WITH A FILE??? OMG you are crazy, amzing, but crazy! You are such a master I really enjoy your videos. There not one boring or bad one so far, please keep on enlightening and enjoying! Thx for all this cool videos and stay well.
Thanks so much for making these vids. I wish I had a place to put all the smiting tools. I find it beautiful and infinitely interesting. Would love to see more, maybe make a hatchet head and some more hand tool.
Thank you for the video, I will be attempting this! The only change that I will make which I think will improve the utility of the stamp is to mark the face of the stamp that should face you to ensure the orientation of the touch mark is always as you want it instead of accidentally stamping upside down. Your videos are really good :-) Thank you again.
The thing I love about ur channel is that ur reviving a practice that people haven’t done in centuries and this is what makes me binge watch ur videos. Please keep doing the things u love to do.
Thanks for sharing this very informative video. I also have been needing this tool but not sure how to make, Now I know, no excuse for not having one now! Take care.
+Paul Krzysz Thanks Paul! Somehow etching the design would probably be even better... it's quite hard to see the the contours when the paper gets dirty and worn.
+Torbjörn Åhman Another great video. This is something I will do whenever I can come up with my design. I thought gluing it down was a good idea as well. I was going to ask you if etching would work then I saw your response here. Thanks for the videos.
It’s lovely. Not trying to be braggy or diminish the fine work done here but with a steady hand and a pair of safety glasses this mark could be done with a cutoff wheel. My touchmark is just slightly more complicated than this and I have done several with my small grinder and a thin cutoff wheel. The size (scale) and quality are equal. Thanks for the vid, always appreciate others work
Hey Torbjörn Åhman, I realise this is an old video. But i wanted to share a tip I was taught 30 plus years ago by, at the time, a gentleman in his 80's. He taught me to dress a metal working file with chalk. Like what schools used to use on black boards before tech took over. It acts like a dry lubricant and allows the file to clean out as you work. If you've never tried this before, I recommend you try it at least once. I think you'll be quite surprised. Thanks for the great videos. Ha det så bra!
I know this is not a new video as I have watched it before but since I love my files I shall attempt to make my own marque.I will use this information as it's probably the most accurate...again,thanks for doing what you do!
EddvT Good! I would temper that end beyond blue or even normalize it. You could heat the end and put the working end in a quarter full tin-can of water or something to protect it and just let it air cool. Just to be safe.
I truly believe I can use this video to create a custom makers mark stamp for my blacksmith husband using the files & rotary tool we have... if I can just figure out how to get him to make the actual body without knowing what I intend to do with the head of it ;) Thank you so very much!
Neat! I'm curious why the touchmark isn't affected by the heat when stamping the work piece? Wouldn't stamping orange-hot metal reduce the temper? What's the ideal temp of the work piece for marking?
Nice file work, very intricate work. With all this part time blachsmithing ,what are you doing full time for a living? With such a high level of skill you must surely be involved somewhere in the metal trades etc? In my youth I did a trade as a “ Fitter and Turner” (nearly 50 years since I have been employed as one) and have worked with heavy equipment, farm machinery and bulldozers etc, all my life. A real pleasure watching you employ your skills at the anvil, the diversity of different projects is really good too. Regards from your Aussie admirer.
very cool! i wonder if you could do an etch to get the same result... wouldnt be near as skillful, but for intricate designs, it would be a heck of a lot easier... what do you think?
+Torbjörn Åhman nice Video. Thank you. Can you explain, what to do if the Stamp has someting like Circles or the letter 'A' inside? How to remove the inside Material? Or is it impossible with 'normal classic' Tools?
Gah, when i clicked on this vid i was like 'yeah how DO they make these things', and then the moment the 'normalize the metal' comment came into the screen i was like 'of course, DOH i should have figured this out myself, and sure enough, there come the files' ... still tnx for sharing though, might still have been wondering without it, even though the solution was right there in my brain already. Just needed a little nudge to line it all up ^^
+Cameron deGrey Quenched in oil. I think most spring steels are oil-hardening. The second one is no quench really, just a cool down in water to stop further tempering. Just some boiled linseed oil rubbed on as a finish cold.
Could this work punch a mark on annealed steel? Or should it only mark red hot steel? I want to mark my knives and I want to know if I can use this without needing to hammer into the steel while hot
With a proper heat treat I would say yes. You might want to consider a design with thinner lines so it has a chance to penetrate. That's however difficult to do by hand with files...
Sharp Works If you are blacksmithing the knives it isn't any issue at any part through the process. If you aren't even heat treating it yourself then I would get with etching in a design. WAAAAY easier. But you should be blacksmithing at some point so make a stamp and hit it into black hot steel
Sharp Works You should only ever stamp a knife blank while it is hot, stamping cold introduces stresses into the steel, and can result in a broken knife. Other objects that aren't hardened, and don't have to survive the stresses of use as a tool, can be stamped cold.
A Jewelers saw or a tiny hacksaw blade in a coping saw frame works great to start edges but I place them where they cut while pulling. I use to make basket weave stamps for leather work and used that method to cut all my lines then shaped with the needle files.
The steel was annealed. Put into a softened state. When it was left to cool down slow by itself just before the filing was shown. That is when you want to do that kind of shaping. It makes the job go quicker. It gets hardened when cooled abruptly. FYI. I don 't have any videos but I forge too.
Very nice. I have a question. A lot of cameras have an IR filter that masks the color during heat treat. What color were you going for when you quenched? Nice straw color on the old school temper as well.
+tellket The IR filer does not mask the color, it's all about exposure and the brightness perception, eye compared to camera. For old school hardening, you should go past non magnetic and some more, orange, in the range of 850-900 deg C usually.
I have really enjoyed your videos i'v learned quite a lot but I do have some questions. 1. What was the glue you used to stick down the template? 2. What oil you use for quenching? 3. What oil you rubbed on to the finished peace? Thanks
Everything up to where the punch is ready, before he glues the image on it, is where I wonder if instead of carving it out of the tip of the punch, would it not be possible to make a positive negative on a steel block, harden it and then wham the glowing punch into it, making an imprint, then harden the punch? It would be like a copy but could be used multiple times when the punch wears out. Any downsides?
The downside is it can be really hard to do the initial design on a flat piece of plate. I also think it's very hard to catch small detail in that way.
+cmoayves Thanks! You normally only hit once or twice to mark hot steel, and that short amount of time does not heat the stamp up that much. For spring steel normalizing is enough. Other alloys might need proper annealing to be soft enough for machining/filing/shaping...
Thanks for the video. I'm gonna try making my touchmark puch the same way you did it. I also thought of making a negative mark on tool steel so I could harden and temper it and then use it to make my punch but your ways seams easier! =D
+Awie Smit I'm not sure, I don't have much experience with etching and how deep you can go before eroding the edges. I believe an initial etching could help with fine detail and help creating a crisp shape for further shaping with files or rotary tools like a dremmel.
can some explain the heat treating crosses with a coal forage? Iv seen it done with knife makers but they use a toaster oven....how does it differ with the open flames ?
Not sure what you mean... If you refer to the tempering, you can judge the temperature of the steel by the color of the oxidation. I let the heat travel towards the tip and when I think the temperature/color is right I stop further heating by cooling in water. I only want the top of the tool to be hard.
Torbjorn, I have a question. When you did the tempering of that stamp, did you just do it once or did you do it multiple times? I'd like to try my hand at making a touch stamp but I want to make sure I do the tempering right. Great video sir!!! Very informative.
I'm impressed. Not a blacksmith, but curious about many things. Can you show us how to re-purpose the springs from a coil (or a leaf), to a bar, to workable metal, then hardened again? Probably basic stuff, but.... I know what I don't know.. thanks
Question regardless the theme of the video. Where do you take the old spring? Are there some old files german, swedish production? They are good for knife forging. Thank you.
+Feovlad Coil springs can be found in great numbers and shapes at car scrappers. Regarding the files, I'm not sure what you're asking? If there are any still in production?
+Torbjörn Åhman let me try to be more correct. on this video you used plane file to form the stamp. such files have been produced of very good steel (if german or swedish country of origin). so they are very good for knifemaking. but buying new files and making knifes from it is bad idea. maybe there is a place where old or spoiled files always come as a scrap metal, and are to be sold, is there?
Really good tutorial, thank you. I have a question about the steel. I do have spring steel like you used, but I also have 01, 02, D2, L5, 1080, 1095. Which would be best for this application?
Thanks! I'm no expert but I actually think L6 would have been pretty nice, but not sure about L5? The rest would probably perform mostly like string steel in this application. O1 is tough to work with since it air hardens a bit so it needs proper annealing before digging in with the files.
Kul att se en svensk som håller på med detta och lägger upp på TH-cam! Funderar själv på att börja med smide, och då kommer din kanal nog vara en bra spark till att komma igång med det! :) Nu har du en prenumerant till!
The key is to heat above "critical" and cool as slow as possible. An insulator like vermiculite might do it, but many modern alloys need a cool rate of less than 20 degrees per hour and that is only achieved in a temperature controlled oven.
What I’ve wondered but can’t find a straight answer for is, do blacksmiths need to register their touch marks? Is there a way to find touch marks currently in use or from long dead blacksmiths?
Torbjörn Åhman thanks for the reply. I’ve seen some people say they are treated like trade marks and other people say they are no different then a street artist signing their work, either way I’ve seen some really cool looking ones.
Than You! I asked a number of people online how to go about making one of these. The only answers I got were long lectures on how important a touchmark is to identify your work and how you need to be careful to not over harden the stamp. Long lectures that answered none of the specifics. Again, Thank You!
Ok, thanks!
First youtube video i've see so far of someone making proper use of a file. They only do work in one direction, folks!
+Ikara Pentiki
You can see it here too, and some draw filing.
+Ikara Pentiki i can do them both ways, just very innefeccient
+Anton Helsgaun But you will dull your file, pressing the sharp edges back in.
its often lazyness that people use the backstroke....or as a guide for keeping momentum.....but many dont savvee the proper technique nor learn it.
depends if its swedish or american cut file
I was wondering how you'd get the smaller bits and then the jewler's file came out and it all made sense! So glad to finally find a tutorial on this!
It is really hypnotising to watch this. Lovely to see such old craft skills.
Make videos more frequently plz. It is really joy to watch it.
Torbjorn you are BRILLIANT!!! Thank you again for your teachings!
+Rick Salazar Thank you!
Hello sir, what a joy it is to watch a person workin their craft...what a master u are...thank u sir...I’m going to have my wife’s cabin in the woods built here in Colorado and our bed room and living room will all be wrought iron.even the front porch railings will be iron...I am designing them myself.
Wow, very cool. Thanks!
WITH A FILE??? OMG you are crazy, amzing, but crazy! You are such a master I really enjoy your videos. There not one boring or bad one so far, please keep on enlightening and enjoying!
Thx for all this cool videos and stay well.
Oh, thank you very much!!
Thanks so much for making these vids. I wish I had a place to put all the smiting tools. I find it beautiful and infinitely interesting. Would love to see more, maybe make a hatchet head and some more hand tool.
+Bobby Bates Thanks! There are things on the to-do list ;)
T-man you did it again - functional art. Peace.
This is a really nice example of quality work.
Thank you for the video, I will be attempting this! The only change that I will make which I think will improve the utility of the stamp is to mark the face of the stamp that should face you to ensure the orientation of the touch mark is always as you want it instead of accidentally stamping upside down. Your videos are really good :-) Thank you again.
+Scipher77 Thanks! Yes that's a good idea. I have made that on my own stamp.
Simple and clear. Thanks for another great film. Better than TV by far!
Very impressive. Didn't realize how easy it can be to make a custom stamp. Thx
Torbjorn, Thank you for yet another top notch informative video.... Your skill sets are amazing.
Love your videos. Always good to see a craftsman such as yourself at work. Keep up the good work!
very impressing and finally someone who uses the file properly!
Pun intended?
This is exactly the video I wanted to find for so long
Nice work!
Ever since I made my first chisel in shop class 43 years ago, I have wanted to get back in doing metal work. I think it's about time.
+billy rubin Great!
I was excited from the beginning. Repurposing a spring for a stamp punch. I always wondered how it was done. Tiny file work. Simply amazing.
+jesse foulk Thanks!
The thing I love about ur channel is that ur reviving a practice that people haven’t done in centuries and this is what makes me binge watch ur videos. Please keep doing the things u love to do.
I wondered how you made those. Very intricate work! Beautiful!
Sei veramente un maestro! ti sei fatto addirittura il punzone con il marchio, sei grande!
Thanks!
Excellent! I've been wanting to make one for a while!...
Thank you!
You made it looked like a Child Play when I know it is not - Well Done
you will have to make another one to put a stamp on this one :')
Deciding on your maker's mark is the hardest part.
EXCELLENT !!! True artestry
Excellent work and presentation, this has been on my project list for a long time!
Another awesome video. Short, sweet, and oh so informative.
+bill withers Thanks!
Thanks for sharing this very informative video. I also have been needing this tool but not sure how to make, Now I know, no excuse for not having one now! Take care.
+Luther H GrindstoneMtn Great, thanks!
Super gluing the design onto the punch was clever. Thanks for another great video.
+Paul Krzysz Thanks Paul! Somehow etching the design would probably be even better... it's quite hard to see the the contours when the paper gets dirty and worn.
+Torbjörn Åhman Another great video. This is something I will do whenever I can come up with my design. I thought gluing it down was a good idea as well. I was going to ask you if etching would work then I saw your response here. Thanks for the videos.
+OrionsAnvil Thanks! Regarding etching, I'm purely speculating about the usefulness, but worth a try someday.
It’s lovely. Not trying to be braggy or diminish the fine work done here but with a steady hand and a pair of safety glasses this mark could be done with a cutoff wheel. My touchmark is just slightly more complicated than this and I have done several with my small grinder and a thin cutoff wheel. The size (scale) and quality are equal. Thanks for the vid, always appreciate others work
Thanks. Absolutely, a small dremel tool would be nice for this kind of work!
Hey Torbjörn Åhman, I realise this is an old video. But i wanted to share a tip I was taught 30 plus years ago by, at the time, a gentleman in his 80's. He taught me to dress a metal working file with chalk. Like what schools used to use on black boards before tech took over. It acts like a dry lubricant and allows the file to clean out as you work. If you've never tried this before, I recommend you try it at least once. I think you'll be quite surprised. Thanks for the great videos.
Ha det så bra!
Thank you! I know the trick but haven't tried it yet... that's odd. Thanks for the reminder. Merry Christmas!
Ho
I know this is not a new video as I have watched it before but since I love my files I shall attempt to make my own marque.I will use this information as it's probably the most accurate...again,thanks for doing what you do!
Great. Thanks, and good luck.
Fint att få se lite finlir Torbjörn!
Dina vidoes är en fröjd för ögat, fortsätt med detta korta som långa. Uppskattade av många!
/Bengt
+bsjoelund Härligt att höra! Tack.
Great video, thank you! My dog did not enjoy the various file sounds, but I enjoyed watching him make silly faces.
Thanks for showing, I've been planning to make one myself. I'll make it today, I really need it.
+EddvT Great. Good luck!
+Torbjörn Åhman As you can see, it is my own channel I'm referring to.
+EddvT Nice! Be careful, you might have hardened the hitting end when you dumped it in the oil.
I know, and for that reason I put the whole stamp in the oven this morning to temper the back end as well so it won't explode on me when I use it
EddvT
Good! I would temper that end beyond blue or even normalize it. You could heat the end and put the working end in a quarter full tin-can of water or something to protect it and just let it air cool. Just to be safe.
I truly believe I can use this video to create a custom makers mark stamp for my blacksmith husband using the files & rotary tool we have... if I can just figure out how to get him to make the actual body without knowing what I intend to do with the head of it ;)
Thank you so very much!
Ha ha, good luck!
this is probably the most patient job on earth
+Sébastien Lagacé Ha ha, probably not, but thanks anyway :)
THANK YOU! EXCELLENT! I've always wondered how the maker's mark dies were made.
I'm so glad I found your channel a while ago. Awesome job as always.
+DraGma Thanks!
this video was exactly what i needed, great work and thanks for the upload!
Very satisfying to watch,I enjoyed it.thanx for the vid
Found your channel yesterday, awesome stuff. And I was looking for such tutorial and you uploaded it the next day, thank you:D will make mine tomorrow
+ronowootz Ha ha, thanks and good luck!
Most welcome for watching and a *HUGE* thank you for showing us!
Great! Thanks
impressive, shows lots of patience
So thats how its done! Nice work!
Thanks for the re-direct to this video. Have a blessed day
No problem!
I was thinking is it possible and here is it :D everything is possible in blacksmithing
Thanks for this video....I wanted to know if it was possible, and how to make a touchmark...you are impressively talented!
+Ed Morris Thanks. Yes, this is one way of doing it.
I love the sound of blacksmithing in the mornin'. Sounds like... industry. ;-)
This was just awesome to see! Thank you!!!!
Neat! I'm curious why the touchmark isn't affected by the heat when stamping the work piece? Wouldn't stamping orange-hot metal reduce the temper? What's the ideal temp of the work piece for marking?
It takes a while for the stamp to heat up, much longer than you really need to mark anything. Normal forging temperatures work fine.
Nice file work, very intricate work. With all this part time blachsmithing ,what are you doing full time for a living? With such a high level of skill you must surely be involved somewhere in the metal trades etc? In my youth I did a trade as a “ Fitter and Turner” (nearly 50 years since I have been employed as one) and have worked with heavy equipment, farm machinery and bulldozers etc, all my life. A real pleasure watching you employ your skills at the anvil, the diversity of different projects is really good too. Regards from your Aussie admirer.
Thanks again! I have worked with 3d computer graphics for 20 years or so :) Today I spend most of my time creating content for my channel.
You’re doing a top job on your channel, keep it up! I wish you all the success possible. Regards from the land of Aus.
Awesome metalwork ! Thank’s for sharing ! 👍🏻
What a coincidence !! The symbol you made is very similar to that usebe by Lars Enander, a blacksmith that worked for Gransfors Bruks.
Ha ha, really? I didn't know he used one similar to this... it's the same initials so it might not be that strange after all.
very cool! i wonder if you could do an etch to get the same result... wouldnt be near as skillful, but for intricate designs, it would be a heck of a lot easier... what do you think?
Got that question before... I'm not sure. I don't think you can etch that deep, but it could perhaps be a helpful start defining the design.
Ok, that was really smart, amazing job pal
That was a great job! But I like your new one better!
long time I didn't see your tube, so thanks 4 you. I like it.
+Torbjörn Åhman nice Video. Thank you. Can you explain, what to do if the Stamp has someting like Circles or the letter 'A' inside? How to remove the inside Material? Or is it impossible with 'normal classic' Tools?
+René Podlogar i'm no expert but maybe using a tool with a point and using a hammer to drill the point to make the hole you need in the middle
+René Podlogar Thanks. You have to use chisels or a dremel type of tool to remove "inside" shapes, or even drill a hole if it's a circular shape.
I always did wonder how you made your signature stamp. Great stuff 👍
Great job. I wish you told us why you were doing the steps and what you used.
Gah, when i clicked on this vid i was like 'yeah how DO they make these things', and then the moment the 'normalize the metal' comment came into the screen i was like 'of course, DOH i should have figured this out myself, and sure enough, there come the files' ... still tnx for sharing though, might still have been wondering without it, even though the solution was right there in my brain already. Just needed a little nudge to line it all up ^^
More annotations!! Was the first quench water? Oil? Second? Was that some kind of oil as a finish? Done while still warm?
+Cameron deGrey Quenched in oil. I think most spring steels are oil-hardening. The second one is no quench really, just a cool down in water to stop further tempering. Just some boiled linseed oil rubbed on as a finish cold.
great video, thanks, can the stamp be used in steel for a knife makers mark for example?
Thanks. Sure, no problem. At least if you stamp hot. For cold stamping you probably need a more sharp (thin lines) design.
thanks
How would you go about putting a hole opening on a touchmark like the center of an "A"? Just a point file?
You could chisel that out or use some sort of rotary tool.
Could this work punch a mark on annealed steel? Or should it only mark red hot steel? I want to mark my knives and I want to know if I can use this without needing to hammer into the steel while hot
With a proper heat treat I would say yes. You might want to consider a design with thinner lines so it has a chance to penetrate. That's however difficult to do by hand with files...
Torbjörn Åhman thanks for the info! I'll give it a try one of these days
Sharp Works If you are blacksmithing the knives it isn't any issue at any part through the process. If you aren't even heat treating it yourself then I would get with etching in a design. WAAAAY easier. But you should be blacksmithing at some point so make a stamp and hit it into black hot steel
Sharp Works You should only ever stamp a knife blank while it is hot, stamping cold introduces stresses into the steel, and can result in a broken knife. Other objects that aren't hardened, and don't have to survive the stresses of use as a tool, can be stamped cold.
A Jewelers saw or a tiny hacksaw blade in a coping saw frame works great to start edges but I place them where they cut while pulling. I use to make basket weave stamps for leather work and used that method to cut all my lines then shaped with the needle files.
Great! Thanks.
That file really moves metal!
The steel was annealed. Put into a softened state. When it was left to cool down slow by itself just before the filing was shown. That is when you want to do that kind of shaping. It makes the job go quicker. It gets hardened when cooled abruptly. FYI. I don 't have any videos but I forge too.
@@garycarraigeacha8794 thank you!
i just realizd how nice your hands are
Very nice. I have a question. A lot of cameras have an IR filter that masks the color during heat treat. What color were you going for when you quenched? Nice straw color on the old school temper as well.
+tellket The IR filer does not mask the color, it's all about exposure and the brightness perception, eye compared to camera. For old school hardening, you should go past non magnetic and some more, orange, in the range of 850-900 deg C usually.
I have really enjoyed your videos i'v learned quite a lot but I do have some questions.
1. What was the glue you used to stick down the template?
2. What oil you use for quenching?
3. What oil you rubbed on to the finished peace?
Thanks
+Douglas Smith Thanks. 1. Just some super glue of some sort. 2. Canola oil. 3. Linseed oil.
Thanks again
Everything up to where the punch is ready, before he glues the image on it, is where I wonder if instead of carving it out of the tip of the punch, would it not be possible to make a positive negative on a steel block, harden it and then wham the glowing punch into it, making an imprint, then harden the punch? It would be like a copy but could be used multiple times when the punch wears out. Any downsides?
The downside is it can be really hard to do the initial design on a flat piece of plate. I also think it's very hard to catch small detail in that way.
would rebar be an ok substitute if it was still properly heat treated?
No. Rebar can't be heat treated in a proper way.... If you're lucky you may get something to work, but I wouldn't invest the time in it.
Would cutting the design in a cold steel plate with a dremel, then pounding the hot tip of the punch into it work?
Yes... but why not cut the design right into the tip of your punch??
Thanks for the vid. Will the tempering not be affected by the use of the punch on hot metal? Would normalising be sufficient?
+cmoayves Thanks! You normally only hit once or twice to mark hot steel, and that short amount of time does not heat the stamp up that much. For spring steel normalizing is enough. Other alloys might need proper annealing to be soft enough for machining/filing/shaping...
What material did you use for the stamp?
A piece from an old car spring.
Torbjörn Åhman awesome, thanks.
Great video, thanks for sharing with the world!
I like this, i will get a spring, and make my own stamp, thanks for the idea!
+radoczi94 Great!
Would 1095 be a good steel for doing this?
+chindas12 I think it would work fine.Be sure to temper it well so it's not too brittle. Maybe do a test piece and abuse it good :)
Will do, thank you very much ^^
+chindas12 as long as you have the temperature control for a proper heat treat. Otherwise, you're better off with a eutectoid steel like 1084.
W1 would work best and last realllly long
Thanks for the video. I'm gonna try making my touchmark puch the same way you did it.
I also thought of making a negative mark on tool steel so I could harden and temper it and then use it to make my punch but your ways seams easier! =D
Thanks!
It worked! Saved me more than 100 U$!
And now I know what my first project will be.
so slick. great work!
Could the same result be achieved through acid etching? It could cut out the fine detail filing. Just a thought.
+Awie Smit I'm not sure, I don't have much experience with etching and how deep you can go before eroding the edges. I believe an initial etching could help with fine detail and help creating a crisp shape for further shaping with files or rotary tools like a dremmel.
Good point. Thank you.
Awesome video ! But I have a question : how can we make our stamp if it has a hole inside like a O or my profil picture ?
Thanks. You have to use chisels or some kind of die grinder / dremel type tool.
Thanks for the tip !
I wanted to thank you your method worked very well i made mine using it many thanks
+steve thrifty Great!
+Torbjörn Åhman here is the result facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1173216419362763&set=pcb.1173216822696056&type=3&theater
+steve thrifty here is it in action :) scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/11754662_1177644838919921_5978864436322843809_o.jpg
+steve thrifty I couldn't see the first image, but the resulting mark looks very nice!
+Torbjörn Åhman i thank you so much again im very pleased with it :)
can some explain the heat treating crosses with a coal forage? Iv seen it done with knife makers but they use a toaster oven....how does it differ with the open flames ?
Not sure what you mean... If you refer to the tempering, you can judge the temperature of the steel by the color of the oxidation. I let the heat travel towards the tip and when I think the temperature/color is right I stop further heating by cooling in water. I only want the top of the tool to be hard.
doesn't this process only make the metal ? What did you have to temper the metal to increase hardness?
You heat and quench, to harden the tool. After hardening you temper.
Beautiful job. Thanks for showing us.
Torbjorn, I have a question. When you did the tempering of that stamp, did you just do it once or did you do it multiple times? I'd like to try my hand at making a touch stamp but I want to make sure I do the tempering right. Great video sir!!! Very informative.
Thanks. When tempering like this I would advice to do it 3 times! If you do it in an oven you leave it there for 1-2h and you're good.
@@torbjornahman ok. Many thanks! I look forward to trying this out
I'm impressed. Not a blacksmith, but curious about many things.
Can you show us how to re-purpose the springs from a coil (or a leaf), to a bar, to workable metal, then hardened again?
Probably basic stuff, but.... I know what I don't know..
thanks
Thanks. It's pretty much what I do in this video.
what were the steps to straighten the spring and straighten it out?
Check my tongs video where I use a pice of coil spring also - th-cam.com/video/KsFTp2Qszko/w-d-xo.html
Question regardless the theme of the video.
Where do you take the old spring? Are there some old files german, swedish production?
They are good for knife forging.
Thank you.
+Feovlad Coil springs can be found in great numbers and shapes at car scrappers. Regarding the files, I'm not sure what you're asking? If there are any still in production?
+Torbjörn Åhman
let me try to be more correct.
on this video you used plane file to form the stamp. such files have been produced of very good steel (if german or swedish country of origin). so they are very good for knifemaking. but buying new files and making knifes from it is bad idea.
maybe there is a place where old or spoiled files always come as a scrap metal, and are to be sold, is there?
+Feovlad Ah, I'm afraid I don't know a specific place, but check with local machine or welding shops if they can gather their old used files for you!
Really good tutorial, thank you. I have a question about the steel. I do have spring steel like you used, but I also have 01, 02, D2, L5, 1080, 1095. Which would be best for this application?
Thanks! I'm no expert but I actually think L6 would have been pretty nice, but not sure about L5? The rest would probably perform mostly like string steel in this application. O1 is tough to work with since it air hardens a bit so it needs proper annealing before digging in with the files.
Thanks as always, Torbjorn! Nice intricate work with (small tools) this time & nice temper color. ~¿@ Linseed oil...interesting. ~PJ
+pjsalchemy Thanks! Yes linseed oil, just for some simple surface finish and protection. It smells good too...
Felicidades ,. Eres todo un maestro en el arte del hierro.
Kul att se en svensk som håller på med detta och lägger upp på TH-cam!
Funderar själv på att börja med smide, och då kommer din kanal nog vara en bra spark till att komma igång med det! :)
Nu har du en prenumerant till!
Coolt. Tack!
Can you give me some details about how do you anneal steel ? For example, times, temperatures ...
The key is to heat above "critical" and cool as slow as possible. An insulator like vermiculite might do it, but many modern alloys need a cool rate of less than 20 degrees per hour and that is only achieved in a temperature controlled oven.
Torbjörn Åhman ok, thanks a lot
What I’ve wondered but can’t find a straight answer for is, do blacksmiths need to register their touch marks? Is there a way to find touch marks currently in use or from long dead blacksmiths?
I really don't know. I guess today it's like registering a trademark... I don't think there are old records either.
Torbjörn Åhman thanks for the reply. I’ve seen some people say they are treated like trade marks and other people say they are no different then a street artist signing their work, either way I’ve seen some really cool looking ones.
Very nice job indeed.
What oil did you use to coat it with?
Just some good old linseed oil.
torb did you also make yours TA stamp is there a vid on that. great detail work .. so cool
Yes I did, but no video on that one, sorry.