Had one and used for work for around 4 years. Never found it heavy, even with a prism on top. Awesome camera. Moved to a RZII Pro as I didn't want to deal with the light seals needing changing and I wanted a phase back attached.
I had two of these (really the Pro S) and sold them to go to digital. I was sorry I did, but film and developing is getting expensive unless you develop your own. The one thing I like about this camera compared to my Nikon digital is that you can use any flash with it. Just plug in a flash with a cord, or strobes. With digital cameras you have to use flashes that will not fry the electronics. I had umbrellas and could position them for the best shots. You feel like a real serious photographer using this camera and not just a picture taker. Also, you can take pictures into the sun. Something that might damage the sensor on a digital. Every time I look at the sharpness of the photos I took with my RB's, I feel a little sick that I don't have one. Maybe someday!
Out of curiosity I weighed mine,with it's 65mm lens fitted...came in at 2.75 Kilograms or 6Lbs..so a heavy set up but worth it.incidentally the 65mm lens is beautiful for landscape work..give's a wider angle of view and as with all Mamiya glass produces beautiful tack sharp shots,if you take your time focusing. the 65mm also has floating optics you need to adjust,more for close up work though but once you get used to it, it's a wonderful lens to use...rarely comes off my camera.
Aaah now your reply under my comment makes sense :D btw, the floating lens system is in the camera so every lens for the camera is floating lens. They do this because the central shutter needs to fit in the lens, too: no room for moving lens groups :P Central Shutter Pro: You can use a Flash with any speed (this camera can operate up to 1/400 seconds shutter speed) which is impossible with the usual curtain shutter
You forgot to mention that you have to advance the film on the back after every shot as well as the camera doesn’t automatically advance the film when you reset the mirror
I was surprised how light it was! After seeing lots of reviews and many people banging on about how heavy it is I was pleasantly surprised...weighs the same as my Nikon set up with a 80-200D attached. I think the reviewers are quite often confusing the ergonomics and size with the weight.
haha yeah the weight is hyped up a lot. I find it as difficult to lug around as any digital camera with a large lens. I see people doing handheld with a setup that includes coupling a spherical lens with vintage projection lenses and putting them on a railroad support, I don't see why a 2.5 kg unit is such a big deal. Totally doable. Although a very broad strap to hang it is definitely a requirement.
Got myself a RB67. You didn't mention anything about the multiple exposure lever. One thing I noticed with my camera is that the shutter won't fire if the multiple exposure lever is not turned forward (when red dot is visible). I have the ProS back and I'm not sure if it differs to other types of backs or is it because I didn't load a film. I checked the pins and they seem to look fine. Does this mean that I'm gonna have multiple exposures cos I always have to turn the multiple exposure lever on to be able to fire the shutter? Is there something I didn't do or forgot to do?
If there's no film in it, you'll need to have the multiple exposure lever turned forward to fire the shutter. As long as you wind both the magazine and the shutter when you take a photo, you'll be fine.
What light meter are you using? I want to take a plunge into Medium Format, but I am kinda afraid I will be wasting my first 20 film rolls by not getting my exposure somewhat correct. thanks!
hopefully by now you found a good light meter, but my favorite is the Sekonic L-508. It has both zoom spot and incident meters, They are available used all over ebay for
i have bought one recently / only 2 weeks ago / several rolls developed . Loving it . But i often use Time exposure , using the mirror lock up setting and a cable release . It seems you need to touch the camera to re-close the aperture . That is really impractial because I'm often working around 2 - 10 seconds . and any camera movement is noticable . THe only ways to close the aperture on a T exposure is to turn the shutter speed barrel to 1 second , or to turn off the mirror lock setting / So i've been finishing the exposures by gently covering the lens and then doing the manual closure . . You got any workarounds for that? Or am i doing something wrong. ?
StringDeposit That is really the only bad thing about those lenses is that there is no true BULB setting so I do have to gently turn the shutter dial to 1 second if I am doing a long exposure. I just make sure that everything is locked down tight before I do so. I never thought about covering it up with something to stop any light from coming in! That is a great idea!
Loaded film, no prob. Now, I can't get the back *back* on the camera. The lock slides in the right place, but the chrome slides for the lock are blocking replacement. Any ideas anyone? A friend bought the same camera and is having the same issue. Thanks in advance.
nice introduction, but clearly saying the weight is the only contra point and not even putting it on a kitchen scale to tell numbers is kind of bold ... i mean its like an effort of one minute tops
thx for your reply, i got my own Mamiya RZ67 over a year ago xD .. guessed its a studio camera on a tripod anyway and im happy with it. made some nice pics.
Yes, Mamya's newer and electronic system the RZ Pro and Pro II both have AE Prism finders with built in meters. Because the RZ lenses are all electronically controlled by the camera body, this gives complete Aperture priority control.with any RZ lens on an RZ body. The RZ body can also accept RB manual lenses (some RB lenses require an adapter) but the electronic meter and body control timing do not work. I have used every Mamiya system over the past 30+ years, so you have any detaile questions feel free to email me.
There are a few that have the meter built into the body - Hasselblad H-series, Mamiya 645AF, Pentax 645 series, and Contax 645 come to mind. Of them, you can afford the Mamiya and the Pentax, and you actually want the Mamiya - the Pentax's finder is too dark, you can't change film midroll and it's one of the loudest cameras ever invented. Almost all of them have metering prisms.
a great camera, but like a large format view camera, you need to go slow, THINK, what button and or control you are using and why, how will this "get the photo", and as it is a manual camera, you didn't say it, but you wind on the film manually, so there are risks of double exposing, and not exposing at all (blank frames), so do as the aviation jet pilots do, THINK, LOOK, CHECK, then DO!! - as you only have twelve chances in a roll to get the shot.
![Mamiya RB67 - 120 film Medium format Camera. In-depth review [ One Of The Best Cameras ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3oC98LGNHOw/mqdefault.jpg)
![Mamiya RB67 - 120 film Medium format Camera. In-depth review [ One Of The Best Cameras ]](/img/tr.png)
Had one and used for work for around 4 years. Never found it heavy, even with a prism on top. Awesome camera. Moved to a RZII Pro as I didn't want to deal with the light seals needing changing and I wanted a phase back attached.
Extraordinary camera,it has only one problem:after first use you can no longer leave it, impossible,marvelous!!!!
I had two of these (really the Pro S) and sold them to go to digital. I was sorry I did, but film and developing is getting expensive unless you develop your own. The one thing I like about this camera compared to my Nikon digital is that you can use any flash with it. Just plug in a flash with a cord, or strobes. With digital cameras you have to use flashes that will not fry the electronics. I had umbrellas and could position them for the best shots. You feel like a real serious photographer using this camera and not just a picture taker. Also, you can take pictures into the sun. Something that might damage the sensor on a digital. Every time I look at the sharpness of the photos I took with my RB's, I feel a little sick that I don't have one. Maybe someday!
more importantly: you can sync the flash on any shutter speed with a central shutter. Like this camera can do 1s/400
Great overview. Super helpful. Thanks!
Out of curiosity I weighed mine,with it's 65mm lens fitted...came in at 2.75 Kilograms or 6Lbs..so a heavy set up but worth it.incidentally the 65mm lens is beautiful for landscape work..give's a wider angle of view and as with all Mamiya glass produces beautiful tack sharp shots,if you take your time focusing. the 65mm also has floating optics you need to adjust,more for close up work though but once you get used to it, it's a wonderful lens to use...rarely comes off my camera.
Aaah now your reply under my comment makes sense :D
btw, the floating lens system is in the camera so every lens for the camera is floating lens. They do this because the central shutter needs to fit in the lens, too: no room for moving lens groups :P
Central Shutter Pro: You can use a Flash with any speed (this camera can operate up to 1/400 seconds shutter speed) which is impossible with the usual curtain shutter
Cool video. Have one on the way :)
You forgot to mention that you have to advance the film on the back after every shot as well as the camera doesn’t automatically advance the film when you reset the mirror
I was surprised how light it was! After seeing lots of reviews and many people banging on about how heavy it is I was pleasantly surprised...weighs the same as my Nikon set up with a 80-200D attached. I think the reviewers are quite often confusing the ergonomics and size with the weight.
haha yeah the weight is hyped up a lot. I find it as difficult to lug around as any digital camera with a large lens. I see people doing handheld with a setup that includes coupling a spherical lens with vintage projection lenses and putting them on a railroad support, I don't see why a 2.5 kg unit is such a big deal. Totally doable. Although a very broad strap to hang it is definitely a requirement.
Thank u very much great review, this is something i wanted to know long ago, do u have ur own dark room?
I have the same light meter!
I have used a Sekonic L-508 meter for 16 years. It has both a dome incident meter as well as a zoom spot focus. I see them on ebay often below $200.
Got myself a RB67. You didn't mention anything about the multiple exposure lever. One thing I noticed with my camera is that the shutter won't fire if the multiple exposure lever is not turned forward (when red dot is visible). I have the ProS back and I'm not sure if it differs to other types of backs or is it because I didn't load a film. I checked the pins and they seem to look fine. Does this mean that I'm gonna have multiple exposures cos I always have to turn the multiple exposure lever on to be able to fire the shutter? Is there something I didn't do or forgot to do?
If there's no film in it, you'll need to have the multiple exposure lever turned forward to fire the shutter. As long as you wind both the magazine and the shutter when you take a photo, you'll be fine.
What light meter are you using? I want to take a plunge into Medium Format, but I am kinda afraid I will be wasting my first 20 film rolls by not getting my exposure somewhat correct. thanks!
hopefully by now you found a good light meter, but my favorite is the Sekonic L-508. It has both zoom spot and incident meters, They are available used all over ebay for
i have bought one recently / only 2 weeks ago / several rolls developed . Loving it .
But i often use Time exposure , using the mirror lock up setting and a cable release .
It seems you need to touch the camera to re-close the aperture . That is really impractial because I'm often working around 2 - 10 seconds . and any camera movement is noticable . THe only ways to close the aperture on a T exposure is to turn the shutter speed barrel to 1 second , or to turn off the mirror lock setting /
So i've been finishing the exposures by gently covering the lens and then doing the manual closure . .
You got any workarounds for that? Or am i doing something wrong. ?
StringDeposit That is really the only bad thing about those lenses is that there is no true BULB setting so I do have to gently turn the shutter dial to 1 second if I am doing a long exposure. I just make sure that everything is locked down tight before I do so. I never thought about covering it up with something to stop any light from coming in! That is a great idea!
+LaRiviere Photo same problem here
Loaded film, no prob. Now, I can't get the back *back* on the camera. The lock slides in the right place, but the chrome slides for the lock are blocking replacement. Any ideas anyone? A friend bought the same camera and is having the same issue.
Thanks in advance.
I no longer have my RB's but I never had a problem with anything unless the back was not on straight. You got me.
nice introduction, but clearly saying the weight is the only contra point and not even putting it on a kitchen scale to tell numbers is kind of bold ... i mean its like an effort of one minute tops
Lol..I just posted a reply after weighing mine..2.75 Kilos or 6 Lbs with my 65mm lens.
thx for your reply, i got my own Mamiya RZ67 over a year ago xD
.. guessed its a studio camera on a tripod anyway and im happy with it. made some nice pics.
is there a medium format camera that has built in light meter?
Try this one hahaha
www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1078381-STUD/hasselblad_3013708_h5d_200c_ms_digital_camera.html/mode/edu
Went immediately to the top shelf haha
Yes, Mamya's newer and electronic system the RZ Pro and Pro II both have AE Prism finders with built in meters. Because the RZ lenses are all electronically controlled by the camera body, this gives complete Aperture priority control.with any RZ lens on an RZ body. The RZ body can also accept RB manual lenses (some RB lenses require an adapter) but the electronic meter and body control timing do not work. I have used every Mamiya system over the past 30+ years, so you have any detaile questions feel free to email me.
There are a few that have the meter built into the body - Hasselblad H-series, Mamiya 645AF, Pentax 645 series, and Contax 645 come to mind. Of them, you can afford the Mamiya and the Pentax, and you actually want the Mamiya - the Pentax's finder is too dark, you can't change film midroll and it's one of the loudest cameras ever invented. Almost all of them have metering prisms.
thanks
But is it really cool?
a great camera, but like a large format view camera, you need to go slow, THINK, what button and or control you are using and why, how will this "get the photo", and as it is a manual camera, you didn't say it, but you wind on the film manually, so there are risks of double exposing, and not exposing at all (blank frames), so do as the aviation jet pilots do, THINK, LOOK, CHECK, then DO!! - as you only have twelve chances in a roll to get the shot.
90mm is normal lens bro