Spiked end of an old ski pole should do you well. Its already hardened steel, lightly grind to a fresh point & you can find an old set at the curb constantly when people upgrade to a better model /set. Or a second hand store in the used sporting goods.
I make ferrules and different implements to go on them as you are describing in the video. If you would like to know more get ahold of me at half Bean survival. I can give you more details there.
It really sticks with you, this one ey? Hardwood be making it as well as this man, carving really etches into your free time and energy, splinters your activities into smaller time frames and the like, but oak think its be worth the time, effort and ded-acacia-n, if nothing else it wood be pretty cool and might make you stand out, maybe make you more poplar with your friends!
I made my own staff based on this video. It turned out great. I am in the US, so I found that sycamore was a good wood for this. Its a hardwood and somewhat light weight. I really enjoyed spending the past couple of days carving. I even made a fire in the backyard for the ambiance. I am proud of my Mark I staff. I've never done anything like this before. I found it very satisfying and will be doing more in the future!
And for those who lack the possibility of making a staff themselves: the local hardware store has an abundance of almost pre-made staffs, disguised as e.g. rake shanks etc.
@@HariSeldon. you have to pick it like you would a dowel for an arrow shaft or a bow blank. Look for the least grain run out. I have gone up against white oak bo staffs with my lowes closet pole (cheap red oak) without issue. i have never sparred using a rake handle and cannot atest to their strength.
I'll admit I was not expecting such an entrance. Expected a wholesome stroll through the forest not and action packed staff flip thing. Like damn. 10/10
He better be careful, sitting out in the Highlands carving a stick WITH A KNIFE! Oh the horror, don't worry pc plod will make sure to give him a criminal record for the safety of us all
@@wepntech walk into your local police station with a good sized stone in your hand... Police can fabricate a narrative to criminalise anything they see fit if they so wish. Was in a friends car and we got stopped by police under "reports of drug use" since they have the power to stop and search under the drugs act. (I don't need to say we didn't have drugs, and have never had drugs) anyway there was a Swiss pocket knife in the door pocket, what a fuss was kicked up over that, this was before the stricter knife laws, I could guarantee if that happened today he or we would have criminal charges against us. They were trying to say we/he had the knife in the car as a offensive weapon in case we got into a fight with other people.
yes tyrants like to treat self defense and general preparation as criminal behavior. but no joke I often carry large blade knives and even gone into stores and such with machette slung on me... no problems. always gonna be retards about but some of them are afraid of of anything. And I've put cops on the ground before for harrassing and assaulting me. Don't need no blade to do any basic judo throws.
@@wepntech no, no you haven't "put cops on the ground" for harassing you. The fact you need to tell people that is pathetic. So is carrying a machete around with you in your daily life. Its totqlly unneccessary and its nothing to do with self defense. You're not in Africa. It's people like you that cause laws against carrying weapons for any reason.
Hey Fandabi: Thanks for the stick tips. Being in my 80th year I don't go too many places without my staff especially during the Canadian winter. My staff has a metal spike mounted on the bottom for extra grabbing power. It's made of hawthorn with a knob at the top that came into good use repelling a determined raccoon when I was protecting my food barrel. Thanks for the video Brian 79
@@FandabiDozi - I find hazel too bendy to support my weight. Thorn, hawthorn, whitethorn, blackthorn, is an immensely strong dense timber, unfortunately doesn't often grow straight.
@@IamAcerbus 'food-barrel'? I used to have a 6-pack. sigh. Ash is good if you can get a 10-15 year sapling that's slow grown in partial shade. Yew is also good, not just for bows. And Privet/Lilac, if you can find good lengths, are very hard/tough.
I think a staff that accepts modifications on both ends would be a dope idea. Imagine a universal acceptor of a spear, cap, point, sling, halbred, weights, or padding or anything else you could think of. Like a swiss army staff.
I'm a blacksmith and my friend a couple of years ago asked me to make the same spike cap for his walking staff too. Have to admit it was hard to make but it really works quite well
@@FandabiDozi well I was learning to make Rose's. And I was in the middle of making one when mate asked if he could test it on his staff. So I half rolled it to fit hammered it on a hay presto it fit. He then asked if I spike too and I said sure and basically turned it in to a shortened arrow head. Alecc steel does a good job doing that. Credit goes to him I got the idea off his video
I think the item you are looking for is called an alpine spike and they used to be on ebay please feel free to correct me if I am wrong but hopefully this will help
A word of advice from a long bow maker about how to avoid cracks from ends because they can run deeper than you expect - wax the very end to stop it from losing the moisture faster than the rest of the stick and wrap it tightly several times with a thin rope as close to the vax as possible so in case that any cracks appear, the wood won't expand too much, deepening the crack. Happy crafting, everybody.
I decided to craft a walking staff. I am very familiar with wood species and rejected all in favor of the strongest most durable fibrous plant - bamboo. Living in the desert country of Tucson Arizona USA bamboo is more of a fantasy species. To my astonishment a bamboo farm exists in Tucson! Visiting the farm I seemed to be immersed in a bamboo forest out of a Chinese Wushu martial arts movie. The owner explained the various bamboo types he had abundantly available. I selected a thick walled variety ("armored") which was a long tapering hollow tube. At home I cut two 6 foot lengths and could not think of any immediate use for the rest and discarded it to my later regret. I decided i needed a more bottom heavy potential weapon and epoxied a length of round cold rolled steel into the hollow. A hard rubber chair leg cover eliminated the thunk sound as it touched the ground. I leather wrapped the top foot length for solid gripping. The staff is a bit crooked and some original long drying cracks are quite visible. It is now well used and I replaced the bottom rubber cushion. Recently I added a 3 sided 5" hard metal spike to the top of the staff for further protection from prowling aggressive animals - dog packs, mountain cats, pecaries (mini bad tempered sharp toothed boars) and non-human humans. I also made a 6 1/2" dagger and sheath to also carry. Urban walking has become quite dicey sometimes.
5:54 As a staff guy, I’m sure you know this, but for those who might not, the way European staff makers/users got around the necessity for smooth but not too smooth to slip out was by making their staffs not round. I think quarterstaffs were traditionally octagonal. The idea is that you can still make it smooth for your hands to slide, but the slight edges gave you a place to grip so it didn’t slide out.
As far as a cap for the bottom end, I found, quite by accident, that a rubber cane-foot fit on my staff perfectly. Instead of the synthetic cord you use to bind the ends, I have a special tool designed for making hose clamps out of aircraft safety wire. Really works great.
I am a Bog. I have trained with sticks for many seasons and I have crafted many sticks. Stick crafting involved three things. There is the sticking, staffing and staking, sort like sub disciplines of what I call Stick Leveraging. Using a well crafted straight stick is a beginning. But once you have developed skills with a straight stick. Then comes the next level, which is going on a bare sole walk about and seek out a limb that has fallen from a tree, has curves and twist, and then learn to integrate your patterns from the straight stick to fit the twisting stick. I have some forked sticks that are really good teachers. After develop knowledge, skills and desire to the natural downed twisting sticks. Then comes the third level of training in leverage which is Staking. Amazing things can be done in Staking. An example of staking is running in the forest with a very long stick and vault. Checking out track and field pole vaulting is a good thing to do, lots of forms to study. I use to use staking to pole vault myself up into a tree limb, climbing stones. I would like to share one other observation and I do not mean this in a rude way. I respect what you are sharing. The term martial arts can be very defining and trap the exploration of sticks, staff and stakes movement patterns. I evolved out of using the words "martial arts" into the "movement arts". It really opens my exploration into the discipline of Sticking Leverage, Weaving With Rope, Dancing Stone. Keep up the good work.
Wonderful video! While always making myself a very different type of staff this attachment thing sounds familiar to me. The initial idea was to make the staff some kind of camera monopod, as a had realized that taking good photos of myself on solo-tours was quite tricky and I didn't want to carry the extra weight of a professional tripod. So I got myself dowel screws that fit the inner thread of the camera and attached one to the top end of my stick. Soon I realized that this opened up a whole bunch of new opportunities and I went for another screw on the bottom end. My plan to use a sharpened garden trowel and thus make my staff a showel didnt work, as the tiny screw couldn't stand the long lever, but at least my "monopod" had the option for a good ground spike now (which also came in handy when I used the staff to support a tarp like you showed in your video). When no camera was attached to the top I normally had a hook there which came in handy very often (although never near civilization, as people started to call me "Schäfer Heinrich", who I found out to be a low wit shepherd figur in a German trash TV show). I also had a metal eye, which I used when I had the staff as a tarp pole. I kind of discontinued my work with this staff, as the thin screws weren't sturdy enough for my liking. Maybe I'll try again one day with m10 or so... Cheers (and sorry for possibly occuring errors, it's a second language)
My goodness, this really brings me back a bit, to my youth. I used 3 types of staves as a youth. One was a martial staff 6 foot long +/-, made of a hickory sapling. The second was a similar staff about 15 feet long for vaulting waterways we needed to cross easily. The third was a stave with a Y at the top. We would notch the tips of the Y and lay a corded loop in it for catching snakes. We had to deal with a great many of them, almost all of them venomous. This last staff allowed us to deal with them from a distance. Growing up back then was a lot different than now. We were left work out solutions for ourselves. If we couldn't come to a good answer, we'd go to an elder for answers. Anyway, it's great that people still find making staves useful. Happy adventuring!
Awesome vid man, I have a point that might be relevant concerning wood choice. if you want a really strong staff its best not to use a single branch i know it makes sense to do so because its already staff shaped but in fact the dierction of the grain means that it suffers if it encounters a shock (like using it a a quarterstaff) this is because the grain forms concentric rings on eachother that put eachother under stress when me with lateral force. The better wood to use is to work with a piece of timber taken from the trunk of a larger tree so the grain all runs one way. think about it like you are looking at the circular profile of the top/bottom of the staff, you want it so the grain can be seen to run in straight lines rather than the rings of one cohesive branch. think about it like an axe haft, all the grain runs parralel to the direction the axehead will be striking so that the grain can more effectively absorb the shock without the wood splitting from impact. Some people reckon this technique is why theyre called quarterstaffs because in making them you would split a trunk in half then half again to get the piece of timber you would work the staff from. Rambly, but you get the point. keep up the great work
My issue is that you can't exactly go out and cut down a tree these days without permission (as far as I know) so you kinda lose some of that exploration and finding your wood type thing. And like I plan to use a staff like this for pretty rigorous martial arts training but I'll try this and see how long it holds up for I guess
I was sceptical at the beginning in terms of practical use, but the more I´ve been watching, the more I started liking the idea of making one myself, especially since I practice martial arts and hike a lot. Really cool video! I will definitely try this :)
Incredible video.. we find ourselves totally lost in wonder watching this.. So amazed at all the steps.. and your explanations as to why and how you do them are most appreciated.. These one on one videos we love so much.. it is as if you are taking us along and showing us what to do.. As my sweet Mum was of the Druid line.. she placed great stock in Rowan wood.. she said it was best for protection.. Were we able to make our own staves.. this is what we would choose.. Have only been a follower of your channel for a wee bit of time.. as we saw a video of you making oat cakes.. and subscribed.. we had no idea if all the amazing areas you are involved in on your channel.. the oatcake video is a favorite.. and this one will join it there… Thank you so very much for these wonderful videos.. As we do much hiking .. having such a useful staff would be sorely appreciated.. We are so happy to have found your channel and will spend many grand hours exploring.. You have two very grateful new viewers in us..Slan mo charaid, Tom😊 William and Jen💜💙🌱🌹
When drying green wood it is a good idea to paint or wax the ends. It makes the wood dry more evenly and slower to minimize cracking. People that carve spoons and such store them in the freezer with the shavings in a bag to slow down the drying process.
I was taught at a young age from a mentor of mine to keep a shoulder height stick with me. When ever I try to convince someone of the ways of the staff, I show them one of your videos (:
I also find you can achieve a sandpapered effect by scraping the wood with the spine of your knife (only works with a 90 degree spine) or the edge if you don't mind dulling it a bit. It takes off thin shavings and leaves a nice smooth surface but still grippy
Pretty much the same effect as a cabinet scraper that a lot of (traditional) furniture makers and carpenters use. another common used alternative is take one of those stanley utility blades. makes the work silky smooth in one go.
I used rubber chair foot protectors on both ends of my favorite stick. Perhaps not too traditional, but they work very well and, unlike metal, will not damage sidewalks and floors. (Yes, I know you should be using them in the woods, but sometimes...) They also work well in dirt and on rocky terrain and slip less than metal on rock surfaces. The do less damage to trails, too.
And you walk on toes too. I hope you got your tree harvested by someone sustainably because I know you were just too afraid to cut down something in the woods
@@MrKieras666 Nah. We had to cut down a lot of trees to build our house. We have 27 acres of woods and I cut stuff whenever I want, including my staffs. The trees do replace themselves with no effort from me. In fact I have some thinning I need to do near the house. But I've also hiked on very worn trails and understand that we (americans) are loving our outdoor spaces to death. Just because I try not to do damage to them doesn't make me some kind of "oh my god, tree hugger". Don't be so quick to jump to judgement on little information.
On the top of my staff I have entangle a mini compass within the bank line, I line up my staff with the ground and thus have my bearings...greeting from France.
Awesome Tom. Definitely add more staff videos. Fun and practical. As for the bottom the staff. Hammer in a good sized nail to the depth that gives you the point length you want then cut off the head. You can add a copper collar to the end epoxied in place to give it more strength as well. Take care Nate
I like your ideas and your workmanship. I blew my knee out on a hike in AR when I was in my 20s and had to cut a quick staff to help me get out of the woods. It's been 30 years and I still have that staff and use it for hiking. After watching your video I'm going to start making a new one.
Yew staves were used for magic wands, it's springy, dense and super hard but difficult to find a good straight bit that doesn't require harvesting too much timber. Oak is the strongest and densest but heaviest. Ash is the lightest one that's still reasonably hard and dense, but tends to splinter on impact/with use. Hazel is the best for quick, straight, reliable and easily replaceable staves, but as you say is a bit lighter and weaker. The absolute best for sheer strength, flexibility and hardness is a thorn, like Hawthorn or Blackthorn. But it's really hard to find these with good straight sections growing. My best method is to find a Yew or Hawthorn that's ~10 years old, so 1-2 inches thick and 8-10 feet high, and harvest the whole tree to be your staff. This obviously kills the whole thing so you also have to find one that's growing in a losing situation (ie under a bigger tree that will outcompete and kill it off anyway in 10 years or so.) Then you can usually get a few roots/branch nodes at the top of your staff which are useful for hooking things and also add loads of character to it, Gandalf style :)
Awesome! Thanks for the info buddy! Im planning on making a cudgel/ shillelagh from Black thorn when im back in Scotland. How long do you season it for?
When I lived in the UK, I was spoiled for choice in stick-making wood but here in Sweden, I'm a lot more limited. Any thoughts on this list..? Birch Aspen Alder 'Scots' Pine 'Norwegian' Spruce Goat Willow
Tom Olorin It doesn’t always kill the whole plant, as long as the roots are left intact. For example, a hazel can, when left alone, live about 150 years, but some living hazel roots in England date back to Roman times, because the trees have been continuously replenished by coppicing.
I have a Yew Half stave (actual half of a limb) which I originally cut for a longbow but was now contemplating making into a staff. I was worried that it may bend eventually. Its been seasoned for about 9 years. Do you think that would make a good staff once shaved down?
Be careful with Yew. Even the shavings are poisonous. Having it all day in a sweaty hand, eating etc. I've read something about poisonings from bows and this is worse. On the other hand a lethal dose should be around 40-50 grams of needles so it sounds like BS. Maybe if you inhale the dust for the whole day... Still it's good to keep in mind. Yews are pretty slow growing trees anyway. I'd feel bad cutting a big 200 years old stem for a stick. Maybe for a bow.
For shaving down your staff (or paddle, axe handle, etc.) I recommend finding a pocket plane (think of a two handed carpenters wood plane only it fits in one palm). There's almost no risk of taking too big a bite out of your stave.
Rather than a metal cap and spike, you can drill a hole into the end of the wood and slide a bolt into the hole with epoxy to hold it in. The bolt head makes a very tough spike and you can sharpen it as much as you want. Then use copper wire to wrap the end to prevent splitting and cover it with epoxy. I did this on a small river cane walking stick and was surprised that the epoxy stayed on the bolt head for over a hundred miles of hiking in mountainous terrain. After several years, the epoxy on the wire looks great and keeps the wire clean and coppery looking. The river cane stick is super light weight and quite strong for walking, but certainly wouldn't stand up to whacking anything. I am thinking about finding a good hickory sapling for a real staff that will build arm muscles while walking.
Once u got a metal cap.. try tapping it. or weld a captive nut in.. with the same thread as sport shoe studs/spikes then u could remove refit or change type at will...
Im a 57 yr old female from new Zealand and ive just subbed. It's fascinating. Especially the plaid video. I think gathering information along lifes journey is important. U never know what's coming up. Life is a challenge. Thanku for yr wrk.!🐏👌🌳🌲
I love that subject, I love my stick too! .....The simplest things can be the most usefull and versatile... And simple don't mean simplistic as, like you say, you can make it thousands ways or with so much options and it will still be a "simple" stick!
Well, I thought I had my weekend planned out until I just saw the vid. Now I have to change my schedule to go to the woods to cut and start preparations for a staff! To the woods!!
To add a spike to the bottom, or a spear to the top, look into "tee" nuts. They're used in furniture a good bit, and you can get them in larger sizes. Personally, I like to keep the staff as "traditional" as possible. The more doodads you add, the less well everything functions. A spear should be designed from the beginning as a spear, for example, lest you risk a weak joint between blade and shaft. One trick I like to use is to insert about 3" of landscaping spike into the bottom end. The large head of the spikes gives you quite a bit of durability and traction without resorting to a metal cap, and the thicker shafts of the spikes adds just a touch of weight that can be quite nice when thumping someone. Pretty easy to drill a 3" hole straight down the center, but the spikes are a foot long if you want to try inserting the whole thing. Adding to both ends maintains the balance if you think that's an important thing for what you are doing. Since I'm a blacksmith, I will forge the heads a bit thinner and wider, both to better cover the end of the staff and to give the whole thing more of that "hand forged" look like you might expect on a traditional staff. This is important, imo, on the upper end where the metal will be seen. The thicker OEM head on the spikes works plenty fine enough for the foot end that's always planted in the ground since it'll quickly be abraded. If you think you'd like to form your own cap for the foot, there are a couple good videos on youtube that show you how to dome the end of some copper pipe. Here's a good video from Torbjorn that shows the forging of a spike and the shaping of a copper cap. One more reason why it's good to be a blacksmith! :D th-cam.com/video/Et5XFXcIBsc/w-d-xo.html
Thats what I do I knock the primer out and screw in a self drilling screw from the inside last a long time and it hardened for drilling threw steel.I just use electrical tape around the hull to secure.Want to change it untape it.Try to find 10 guage if possible.
For a spike/cap consider a copper water hammer arrestor. It's a long, seamless capped tube, some are pointy, and copper can be patina'd in many colors.
Great video! Around a year ago I watched the other vid and when I get chance I'll send you a pic of the lovely ash staff I made following your advice. I'm now gunna use this stuff in this video to finish it off nicely. I've mostly been using it as a walking aid and to practice fire staff moves, I now believe all humans need a good staff!
Love watching your skills. When I saw Ur vids I instantly went on the hunt for some wood. I haven't made a staff but a utility walking stick which holds a saw, knife, parracord and a compass and it's amazing. I'm now addicted to staff making. Thanks for the motivation
Awesome tutorial. Thank you! I prune a lot of trees and saved a big pomegranate branch for just this purpose. If you aren’t familiar with the 3 cut method, check it out. It’s a great way to protect a tree when harvesting branches 🙂
You should see mine, I have a wooden version of the standard orthopaedic forearm crutch but with an antler handle and semi precious stones. It is absolutely unique.
I use plumbing parts for the ends of my staves, depending on the look I want, copper and cast (gas)pipe caps work well, you can also find threaded "couplers"
In Arizona I used wood from the saguaro cactus. When the cactus dies the flesh falls away and you're left with long shafts that just need to be cut to length. It's very light weight and very strong. Very little sanding is needed and they are already dried by the sun and no bark to remove!
ive been drying a good cedar branch for nearly a year now . I've read it isn't the best material but I was doing some work for my boss and it "spoke to me"
A broom stick is too short and light to be used as a weapon. Yeah, you will hit your oponent with ease, but by no means you will disable him/her unless you aim to the handa.
@@chettonex you mean to tell me that you don't think someone practiced with a jo, hanbo, or escrima stick could break a tibia of fibula? against an armoured opponent, you could be right; there is a tremendous reason a guy with a knife is no match for a guy with a 5' or even 3' hardwood stick. i feel as though your view is skewed by some information you're without.
@@chettonex an oak broomstick is far harder than bone, fairly heavy, generally 1" in diameter and 5'6"ish in length....real life experience tells me that my cousin was immediately disabled when i clacked his foot out from under him, with a broken tibia, and then a broken forearm (i dont remember which one) when i clacked him in the arm on his way down. but i guess you never held an oak broomstick...because when you buy an oak jo (which is essentiallythe same thing, 51.5" in length or something like that and like 15/16th" in diameter) they warm you that it isnt a toy, can break bone, and cause tremendous bodily harm including death....but yeah i mean i guess you're right
I love you videos like a lot, really, a lot... I have been loving Scotland since a long time now and finding this piece of art... Is blow minding! Please, keep going like this, I really thank you for your effort and the passion you have for the things you do... Hugs from far away! Sorry for my grammar, is not that good yet but I'm trying!
For the end cap you can use a copper plumbing endcap. The are not very long, but they do protect the end. For a sharper point add a screw or nail from the back (fill gap with epoxy). They do sell spear butt caps, but they run $20 or so in America.
I’d like to see you test this idea: I read that in old Japan, there was a practice of hollowing out the top 8 inches or so of a walking staff and having a poisoned metal dart inside it, so when you’d flick the top of the staff forward, the dart would shoot out at the target at high velocity. Seems like a lot easier system than the staff sling or atlatl or whatever else. Would like to see it in action! I imagine it requires a pretty thick staff to accomplish, and maybe even some special preparation of the interior, hollowed out section.
Another trick besides powder such as salt which can be thrown was ball bearings down the inside. The shaft needs to be smooth. The length of shaft effects the force of the throw. Great force can be achieved with a whipping motion. And even a patterned multiple ball bearing attack be achieved. Another trick which might be best with a short staff, would be some object inside the shaft such as a lead weight, attached with a length of heavy fishing line. The length of line can be varied to some extent. On a dark night such a device could reach out and touch something unseen. A steel end cap that had threading to uncap would work. Of course legality may be an issue in some countries. I always have believed that knowledge is always moral. But such a device in practice may be illegal and immoral.
Great video and extremely helpful. With the council of a couple people I made a great concoction to treat your staff. It's one part boiled linseed oil, one part melted beeswax, and two parts turpentine. I hope this helps someone. Slán.
Awesome vid man. You should definitely do one on simple bo drills that beginners can do easily. Something simple that we can just bust out for a bit of exercise for when we are in the bush.
Enjoyed watching this! The nice thing about the staff is that anyone can get one, and as you have shown, it as so many practical uses. Keep them coming👍🏻
I've been dabbling in bojitsu, I guess it's bojutsu, for a few years and it answered my age old crisis of being bored working out in the gym or at home. I had to figure out that I'm not comfortable with fluorescent lights or synthetic equipment. I need the trees, breeze and skyscape around me. I need to be transported back to the Pre-Roman Highlands or Han China, following the motions and rhythms consistent throughout thousands of years of our history. It's about creating a myth that suits you and living up to that myth, even if it's just in your imagination.
Thats awesome man! I am mostly strained in Japaneses Jo staff, so I'm sure there would be similarities. I love the meditative state you can get in when everything is in full flow. I will look into bojutsu more. Thanks for sharing
I'm only self and TH-cam taught, so maybe saying I practice bojutsu isn't accurate. But I feel the flow state and sort of calculate what would be the most natural flow from strike to strike so I'm not wasting precious seconds during a fight adjusting to the next position. It's so much fun. Thanks for replying! Your videos are some of my all time favorites, I'll continue to share them. : )
@@FandabiDozi Hi, thx for sharing your passion, i recognize mine when i was travelling for south america with staff. Usually used for junggling with fire (i put some kevlar support in each side, loved it for balance and weight), but also for silambam practice. When i was watching your video, i believed it was also silambamtam (from Kalari, South India). I guess you already know, but in case you don´t, please just look at it :D I´m pretty sure we share a passion in commun, and I realize admire your authenticity. Juste be yoursel and keep connected with your roots.
Crepe myrtle is what I use. If you have access to any try it it'sa extremely hard and tough , and some grow just like staffs. All you have to do is cut it.
I'd love to know more about staff sling and how you use it in conjunction with a tent/tarp - also would love to figure out easy ways to attach loops to the lashing for carrying if needed etc!
I made a quarterstaff for walking in unven terrain from a 1.25'' hardwood dowel. I've put a rubber ferrule on as it prevents the staff slipping, unlike a metal one. However, I may change to a cord binding as you've demonstrated as the wooden end will slip less than metal.
I have staffs that I have made and keptbfor 50 years. Hickory, ash or oak, but my favorite is Southwood. Very light and strong, native in Appalachia. Mine has carried me through too many roundabouts to remember.
I've made myself an octagonal staff. The old karate masters of Okinawa would make their nunchucks octagonal to have more impact force so I decided to do that with a staff.
@@wakanakapisihello5655 took a 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" piece of lumber from local hardware store and used a hand chisel on each corner. Was actually quite easy.
I started maintaining a neglected coppice of hazel and ash in my local woods and they are just getting ready to harvest. 35-60mm thick and arrow straight wood, ready to harvest this winter. Also, the woods are now much healthier as I am caring for the area properly
A but late to the party here, but I made a walking staff this summer and for the metal cap I used a bit of steel pipe and a lug bolt. Welded the bolt on the pipe and then grounded everything down into a pointy end. Works like a charm.
Hi, here the fellow staffmen from Holland. Some nice martial moves you have. Would be nice to see the basics in slow motion with some explanation of the purpose of the particular moves. Greatings Gerard
Yeah, it's basically old Aikido work isn't it? Lots of info online about it and easy to learn. I prefer a lesser known style also out of Japan taught by Kono. th-cam.com/video/tr7w0fjifAw/w-d-xo.html
Quick tip for martial arts use: if you intend to mount any kind of edge or tip it can help to give it an oval or hexagon shape to help with edge alignment. Just thinning an edge can help because greater force on a smaller surface area leads to more damage, if that's what you're going for.
If it’s someone who has been trained I would say it’s irresponsible to train anyone to wield a weapon or martial arts you would ever be afraid to anger. I’ve had over 20 years of martial arts training, I and pretty much everyone I’ve come across turn into people who are able to a extreme degree control their temper. A large part of martial arts training should be mental training. And I’ve seen teachers refuse to train people who they deem would be dangerous. Most people who start to master martial arts of some sort learn to have extreme respect for violence and their own ability to cause it. Most people who last more then 2 years of martial arts training is the people you could shout just about whatever foul thing you can think of, but if you go over the line and start to physical hurt them or anyone else. You will be on the floor, and quickly made sure you no longer are able to continue whatever you started
@@IQzminus2 he just said to be afraid to anger them which basically means don't be stupid and aggressive around them not that you should be afraid in general of them
random chicks music What I’m saying is that with people who are skilled in a martial art are probably among the people on Earth you are going to have the hardest time ever to anger, no matter how stupid or badly someone is acting. People tend to get a lot more stable and like overall chill as a person. Like pretty much everyone gets some personal growth and turn it more chill, empathic and non-aggressive people. You sort of have to. Because that is the sort of person you need to be when you have the capability of hurting others
Nice video, Tom. I've made a number of simple sticks. Usually I cut them from chestnut as thumb sticks, but sometimes I cut them from hazel; and usually I don't bother straightening or shaving the stick, I just round the ends and bore one or two small holes to put a thread through (to hang up the stick or to hand something from the stick). For the end, try googling for "alpine spike ferrule".
Great video. As for a spearhead for it, look up Cold Steel Bushman. It is a knife, but also is intended to fit over the end of a staff and held there by friction, or there is a hole in the handle were a screw or eyelet screw can be put to keep it more firmly attached and more easily removed. Great channel btw. Cheers.
I carried a ski pole that had a metal spike for sticking in the ice not much good for fighting with but it gave me added traction on slopes and rough terrain. Handy item-- the staff
thank you for this nice idea, i refuse to believe that there is the ULTIMATE STICK or BO because every human has its own skills, movements and measurements, but you gave me an idea, how i could make my hanbo, jo and bo much cheaper and easier than running to a shop. I love people vreting things and in the old days fighters had to built and care for their equipment themselves. I think thats a good video. Carry on like this. Loving it.
I was really interested in the difference between Hazel and Ash? I was always taught to go ash for my scout staff as it was the best. On that point where does rowan fall in the staff making material? Finally have a look at the scout stuff for staff mods there are all sorts of marks etc which allow you to do fun things. The dump has loads of scout books and magazines to nose at.
Oiling for hardness is an interesting thought. Was taught to dry wood for arrows with smoke for hardness. You can heat up rings of steel and slip them onto ends, when it cools it will shrink into the wood slightly. Thanks for video.
No. metal/steel doesn't expand/contract enough. better to really dry the ends of the staff, then hammer-on to close-fit the ring, then let the timber absorb moisture again. you can buy/make metal cleats/wedges to fix the metal rings same as hammer/axe heads.
A copper plumbing cap with a hole drilled in it to accommodate a fairly large diameter nail fastened with epoxy might work. The copper will get a beautiful patina and a good quality epoxy will hold it tight for a very long time. Might be worth a try. Good luck.
I made one out of dogwood in 2005. It was strong but it cracked. I can't seem to find it now though. I made my daughter one out of white ash and it didn't crack and is holding up well. It has some flex to it which is nice.
@@andyblack5687 Ash should do well I think. I'm about to try Osage or locust, whichever turns up first in the woods. Gotta find my spokeshave tho, it's MIA
Wakanakapisi Hello Ah. Is locust wood good for staves? I can find those around here easier than ash. Sadly, dogwood trees are getting rarer due to a blight that’s wiping them out. I would like to try hickory but I haven’t been able to find a straight piece that’s the right length yet.
@@andyblack5687 I would certainly think so. It's got a really sense grain that runs pretty straight as I recall, for pure tough all I can say is it makes the blades on chainsaws throw sparks pretty consistently. I mean damn, that's hard as hell...if not I guess you can stick em in the ground and water them, might take root and grow!
Old forester here. Used a staff everyday to accomplish dozens of measurements on dozens of trees for the Forest Inventory and Analysis program of the USFS. Now they use sonar devices, which arent so good at saving ur neck while trudging thru the Cumberland plateau. Great video thank you. (Mine was sweet birch, also im a kyoshi yodan in kempo bugei)
When I was in my teens, the advice I got was to stop in the low ground and tie knots in alders, and what have you. As long as you did not break them, in 10 or so years, you had a useful - disposable - device. The advice was to tie 100 or more. Almost 5 decades later, I come back to the staff. Cheers
I have used metal bushings that I found at my local tractor supply/farm goods store to cap some of my hiking sticks. They worked well to keep the ends from splitting and looked okay, but I found they made the stick heavier than I liked. I enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing.
I carved a walking/fighting staff back in the 1980's. I liked the texture of the whittled wood and left it pretty much that way. I didn't carve canals for the end cords but drilled a hole in each end and then weaved leather cords around the shafts and then pulled the ends through the holes to end up under the other side leather. Finishing it I got them wet so that they would shrink. When I make my next walking staff I'll repeat this process and then burn the wood with a torch, rub it down, and then oil it with boiled lindseed oil. It will blend into the woodland much better than a bright yellow staff.
Great video! Just a quick note: Debarking before the wood dries will cause it to split. But leaving an excess length, as you did, will mostly solve the problem.
Madrone is fantastic if you are in the Pacific US. It often has nice, straight branches, and is a very hard wood. I use a thicker, shorter one more or less like a primitive hammer. For example, the ‘baton’ method in which you can split wood with a knife hitting the back of the blade with a stick.
I've built several staffs. A few were from hollow aluminium pipe, it comes out at about the same weight, but is far stronger. It's easy to thread attachments into aluminium. For an 'ice-spike' for a wooden staff you could drill the end-grain to accept a long, self-taping bolt. Lock two nuts against each other to the depth it goes into the wood, then hacksaw the bolt off at an angle to make your spike. Grind it down further if you want. To remove the spike you just have to remember to always turn the nut closest to the wood. To put it in again always turn the nut furthest from the wood.
Very nice. I've been thinking a lot about this lately, as I walk the rugged woodland everyday and use a rough walking stick I cut and constrictored after breaking my store bought stick out there. It could be a bow possibly, and a sling, and staff and spear. My dogs leash drops over the top, then the stick lanyard loop goes up and over to secure the leash handle. I can walk my dog quickly through brush on steep muddy terrain that way and leash is attached below my handhold that way, as it slides down the length of the attached lanyard loop. To detach the leash, I simply slide it up and off the stick end.
Wanted to make a bow and learned a bit about how powerful staffs are in right hands...Remembered how people in games fight with bows at close range and thought about making "staff" :) Nice video,thanks for ideas on shaping it
For your fishing attachment. Buy carbon fiber arrows- cut to about 12", glue in inserts to accept fishing points. Locate thin metal tubing with ID close to OD of arrow. Drill end of staff and epoxy length of tubing. Use small rubber o rings or thread wrap to get your fit. Last light bank cord to shaft of arrow and your wrist. Now you have a slender dart to stick the fish or frog that slips out, leaving you a hand line to retrieve your meal. I have used bamboo for years but mine were not intended for SD- still work for thrusts but not for slashing moves.
I absolutely 100% want to hear more brilliant ideas that you have for staffs from Martial arts to creative inventive ideas absolutely 100% have a great deal of interest in it
You can use tea leaves and coffee to stain wood, not sure the process for tea but for coffee I'd say it's rather achievable out in the wilderness. From what I've heard all you have to do is make some coffee, let it cool, take a brush and sort of paint it on. The longer you let it sit, the darker the stain.
Share a picture of your favourite Stick and/or finished Staff on Instagram using #fandabistick, @fandabiwilderness
What you're after for the bottom is a "ferrule". Specifically one for a walking stick, as the term is used elsewhere too. Hope that helps.
Spiked end of an old ski pole should do you well. Its already hardened steel, lightly grind to a fresh point & you can find an old set at the curb constantly when people upgrade to a better model /set. Or a second hand store in the used sporting goods.
ALPINE SPIKE FERRULE, CHOICE of 9 SIZES for WALKING / SHOOTING / HIKING STICKS.
I make ferrules and different implements to go on them as you are describing in the video. If you would like to know more get ahold of me at half Bean survival. I can give you more details there.
Hit Amazon for visuals of "cane ice tip attachment" They may not be Ideal for a permanent fixture, but you can stash it in your pack when not in use.
Came here for employee management skills, but this is cool too
Came here for the same reason, and I found out a strong staff can straighten those peasants
Wizards get that a lot ...
Well, you can do employee management using a stick.
@@achimlichtenhagen3144 Yeah - just look at Saruman ... he sure straightened out that Gandalf
Lol
I just watched about 25min about a stick and I learned that I need to make myself a stick.
just stick with it!
It really sticks with you, this one ey? Hardwood be making it as well as this man, carving really etches into your free time and energy, splinters your activities into smaller time frames and the like, but oak think its be worth the time, effort and ded-acacia-n, if nothing else it wood be pretty cool and might make you stand out, maybe make you more poplar with your friends!
@@knightlypleasures3123 STOP THE PUNS
@@who2807 don't be a stick in the mud ! Sorry I am late but I thought that was a fanta-stick opportunity !
And you seem to speak softly already.
I made my own staff based on this video. It turned out great. I am in the US, so I found that sycamore was a good wood for this. Its a hardwood and somewhat light weight. I really enjoyed spending the past couple of days carving. I even made a fire in the backyard for the ambiance. I am proud of my Mark I staff. I've never done anything like this before. I found it very satisfying and will be doing more in the future!
And for those who lack the possibility of making a staff themselves: the local hardware store has an abundance of almost pre-made staffs, disguised as e.g. rake shanks etc.
The closet hanger poles are great and have more choice for length
Rake handles and closet poles are soft, weak, and likely to break. An oak dowel will work extremely well however.
@@HariSeldon. you have to pick it like you would a dowel for an arrow shaft or a bow blank. Look for the least grain run out. I have gone up against white oak bo staffs with my lowes closet pole (cheap red oak) without issue. i have never sparred using a rake handle and cannot atest to their strength.
@@scorpio110984 that is an awesome price. They use to be way more expensive, may be time to upgrade.
@@scorpio110984 hello, brother in name.
I'll admit I was not expecting such an entrance. Expected a wholesome stroll through the forest not and action packed staff flip thing. Like damn. 10/10
It's all fun and games till you fall on yer neck 😂
theres a lot of mosquitos in them thar hills
You need to get out more ...
I didn't know sticks were legal in the UK.
He better be careful, sitting out in the Highlands carving a stick WITH A KNIFE! Oh the horror, don't worry pc plod will make sure to give him a criminal record for the safety of us all
@@craiga6557 might have to use stone tools mate, that should be ok since stones are all around... nah, maybe not.
@@wepntech walk into your local police station with a good sized stone in your hand... Police can fabricate a narrative to criminalise anything they see fit if they so wish. Was in a friends car and we got stopped by police under "reports of drug use" since they have the power to stop and search under the drugs act. (I don't need to say we didn't have drugs, and have never had drugs) anyway there was a Swiss pocket knife in the door pocket, what a fuss was kicked up over that, this was before the stricter knife laws, I could guarantee if that happened today he or we would have criminal charges against us. They were trying to say we/he had the knife in the car as a offensive weapon in case we got into a fight with other people.
yes tyrants like to treat self defense and general preparation as criminal behavior. but no joke I often carry large blade knives and even gone into stores and such with machette slung on me... no problems. always gonna be retards about but some of them are afraid of of anything. And I've put cops on the ground before for harrassing and assaulting me. Don't need no blade to do any basic judo throws.
@@wepntech no, no you haven't "put cops on the ground" for harassing you. The fact you need to tell people that is pathetic. So is carrying a machete around with you in your daily life. Its totqlly unneccessary and its nothing to do with self defense. You're not in Africa. It's people like you that cause laws against carrying weapons for any reason.
Hey Fandabi: Thanks for the stick tips. Being in my 80th year I don't go too many places without my staff especially during the Canadian winter. My staff has a metal spike mounted on the bottom for extra grabbing power. It's made of hawthorn with a knob at the top that came into good use repelling a determined raccoon when I was protecting my food barrel. Thanks for the video Brian 79
Hi Brian! Thanks for sharing! I have heard Hawthorn is a great wood! I hope it continues to serve you for many more years :)
@@FandabiDozi - I find hazel too bendy to support my weight. Thorn, hawthorn, whitethorn, blackthorn, is an immensely strong dense timber, unfortunately doesn't often grow straight.
I hope I have a food barrel when I'm 80.
That's really great Brian. Greetings from the east of England.
@@IamAcerbus 'food-barrel'? I used to have a 6-pack. sigh.
Ash is good if you can get a 10-15 year sapling that's slow grown in partial shade.
Yew is also good, not just for bows.
And Privet/Lilac, if you can find good lengths, are very hard/tough.
I think a staff that accepts modifications on both ends would be a dope idea. Imagine a universal acceptor of a spear, cap, point, sling, halbred, weights, or padding or anything else you could think of. Like a swiss army staff.
Perhaps tape could work? -Zach
I'm a blacksmith and my friend a couple of years ago asked me to make the same spike cap for his walking staff too. Have to admit it was hard to make but it really works quite well
Nice man! How did you make it?
@@FandabiDozi well I was learning to make Rose's. And I was in the middle of making one when mate asked if he could test it on his staff. So I half rolled it to fit hammered it on a hay presto it fit. He then asked if I spike too and I said sure and basically turned it in to a shortened arrow head. Alecc steel does a good job doing that. Credit goes to him I got the idea off his video
I just use a big 2inch nut or cog or any other piece of scrap , sorta like a ww1 trench club
I think the item you are looking for is called an alpine spike and they used to be on ebay please feel free to correct me if I am wrong but hopefully this will help
@@andrewoldham4462 Yep, I've made a few walking sticks and that's always what I use. come in a range of sizes and usually cost less than £4
A word of advice from a long bow maker about how to avoid cracks from ends because they can run deeper than you expect - wax the very end to stop it from losing the moisture faster than the rest of the stick and wrap it tightly several times with a thin rope as close to the vax as possible so in case that any cracks appear, the wood won't expand too much, deepening the crack. Happy crafting, everybody.
I decided to craft a walking staff. I am very familiar with wood species and rejected all in favor of the strongest most durable fibrous plant - bamboo. Living in the desert country of Tucson Arizona USA bamboo is more of a fantasy species. To my astonishment a bamboo farm exists in Tucson! Visiting the farm I seemed to be immersed in a bamboo forest out of a Chinese Wushu martial arts movie. The owner explained the various bamboo types he had abundantly available. I selected a thick walled variety ("armored") which was a long tapering hollow tube. At home I cut two 6 foot lengths and could not think of any immediate use for the rest and discarded it to my later regret. I decided i needed a more bottom heavy potential weapon and epoxied a length of round cold rolled steel into the hollow. A hard rubber chair leg cover eliminated the thunk sound as it touched the ground. I leather wrapped the top foot length for solid gripping. The staff is a bit crooked and some original long drying cracks are quite visible. It is now well used and I replaced the bottom rubber cushion. Recently I added a 3 sided 5" hard metal spike to the top of the staff for further protection from prowling aggressive animals - dog packs, mountain cats, pecaries (mini bad tempered sharp toothed boars) and non-human humans. I also made a 6 1/2" dagger and sheath to also carry. Urban walking has become quite dicey sometimes.
5:54
As a staff guy, I’m sure you know this, but for those who might not, the way European staff makers/users got around the necessity for smooth but not too smooth to slip out was by making their staffs not round.
I think quarterstaffs were traditionally octagonal. The idea is that you can still make it smooth for your hands to slide, but the slight edges gave you a place to grip so it didn’t slide out.
As far as a cap for the bottom end, I found, quite by accident, that a rubber cane-foot fit on my staff perfectly. Instead of the synthetic cord you use to bind the ends, I have a special tool designed for making hose clamps out of aircraft safety wire. Really works great.
I am a Bog. I have trained with sticks for many seasons and I have crafted many sticks. Stick crafting involved three things. There is the sticking, staffing and staking, sort like sub disciplines of what I call Stick Leveraging. Using a well crafted straight stick is a beginning. But once you have developed skills with a straight stick. Then comes the next level, which is going on a bare sole walk about and seek out a limb that has fallen from a tree, has curves and twist, and then learn to integrate your patterns from the straight stick to fit the twisting stick. I have some forked sticks that are really good teachers. After develop knowledge, skills and desire to the natural downed twisting sticks. Then comes the third level of training in leverage which is Staking. Amazing things can be done in Staking. An example of staking is running in the forest with a very long stick and vault. Checking out track and field pole vaulting is a good thing to do, lots of forms to study.
I use to use staking to pole vault myself up into a tree limb, climbing stones.
I would like to share one other observation and I do not mean this in a rude way.
I respect what you are sharing.
The term martial arts can be very defining and trap the exploration of sticks, staff and stakes movement patterns.
I evolved out of using the words "martial arts" into the "movement arts". It really opens my exploration into the discipline of Sticking Leverage, Weaving With Rope, Dancing Stone.
Keep up the good work.
Wonderful video!
While always making myself a very different type of staff this attachment thing sounds familiar to me. The initial idea was to make the staff some kind of camera monopod, as a had realized that taking good photos of myself on solo-tours was quite tricky and I didn't want to carry the extra weight of a professional tripod. So I got myself dowel screws that fit the inner thread of the camera and attached one to the top end of my stick. Soon I realized that this opened up a whole bunch of new opportunities and I went for another screw on the bottom end. My plan to use a sharpened garden trowel and thus make my staff a showel didnt work, as the tiny screw couldn't stand the long lever, but at least my "monopod" had the option for a good ground spike now (which also came in handy when I used the staff to support a tarp like you showed in your video). When no camera was attached to the top I normally had a hook there which came in handy very often (although never near civilization, as people started to call me "Schäfer Heinrich", who I found out to be a low wit shepherd figur in a German trash TV show). I also had a metal eye, which I used when I had the staff as a tarp pole.
I kind of discontinued my work with this staff, as the thin screws weren't sturdy enough for my liking. Maybe I'll try again one day with m10 or so...
Cheers (and sorry for possibly occuring errors, it's a second language)
Great! Thanks buddy! Something similar would be awesome. Using common, heavy duty threads would be ideal. More research i need to do
@@FandabiDozi You can buy lengths of threaded bar in pretty much any length/thread pattern you could ever want!
Oh hey it's the sabaton lyrics channel
Nice to know one of my favorite Musik channels has similar interests!
My goodness, this really brings me back a bit, to my youth.
I used 3 types of staves as a youth. One was a martial staff 6 foot long +/-, made of a hickory sapling. The second was a similar staff about 15 feet long for vaulting waterways we needed to cross easily. The third was a stave with a Y at the top. We would notch the tips of the Y and lay a corded loop in it for catching snakes. We had to deal with a great many of them, almost all of them venomous. This last staff allowed us to deal with them from a distance.
Growing up back then was a lot different than now. We were left work out solutions for ourselves. If we couldn't come to a good answer, we'd go to an elder for answers.
Anyway, it's great that people still find making staves useful.
Happy adventuring!
Thank you for your suggestions on the 3 staffs. Gives me some ideas
Nyaeh
How hard is it to vault rivers and streams
@@vafito44 what?
@@kennymonty8206 sorry that first reply was just some modern day slang, but how hard is it to vault rivers or streams?
Awesome vid man, I have a point that might be relevant concerning wood choice. if you want a really strong staff its best not to use a single branch i know it makes sense to do so because its already staff shaped but in fact the dierction of the grain means that it suffers if it encounters a shock (like using it a a quarterstaff) this is because the grain forms concentric rings on eachother that put eachother under stress when me with lateral force.
The better wood to use is to work with a piece of timber taken from the trunk of a larger tree so the grain all runs one way. think about it like you are looking at the circular profile of the top/bottom of the staff, you want it so the grain can be seen to run in straight lines rather than the rings of one cohesive branch. think about it like an axe haft, all the grain runs parralel to the direction the axehead will be striking so that the grain can more effectively absorb the shock without the wood splitting from impact.
Some people reckon this technique is why theyre called quarterstaffs because in making them you would split a trunk in half then half again to get the piece of timber you would work the staff from.
Rambly, but you get the point. keep up the great work
I can see your point since good bows are made the same way, by quartering a suitable tree trunk to make sure the grain runs along the length of wood.
The strongest guitar necks are generally quartersawn maple, as well. Good point.
I have found small spruce trees peeled and dried are light and strong.
My issue is that you can't exactly go out and cut down a tree these days without permission (as far as I know) so you kinda lose some of that exploration and finding your wood type thing. And like I plan to use a staff like this for pretty rigorous martial arts training but I'll try this and see how long it holds up for I guess
@@pixelblaze8284 Just do it. This is your earth too. Just make sure it isn't private property.
Tung oil will darken over time, so applying some of that may get you closer to the color you want without actually using any stain.
I was sceptical at the beginning in terms of practical use, but the more I´ve been watching, the more I started liking the idea of making one myself, especially since I practice martial arts and hike a lot. Really cool video! I will definitely try this :)
Incredible video.. we find ourselves totally lost in wonder watching this..
So amazed at all the steps.. and your explanations as to why and how you do them are most appreciated..
These one on one videos we love so much.. it is as if you are taking us along and showing us what to do..
As my sweet Mum was of the Druid line.. she placed great stock in Rowan wood.. she said it was best for protection..
Were we able to make our own staves.. this is what we would choose..
Have only been a follower of your channel for a wee bit of time.. as we saw a video of you making oat cakes.. and subscribed.. we had no idea if all the amazing areas you are involved in on your channel.. the oatcake video is a favorite.. and this one will join it there…
Thank you so very much for these wonderful videos..
As we do much hiking .. having such a useful staff would be sorely appreciated..
We are so happy to have found your channel and will spend many grand hours exploring..
You have two very grateful new viewers in us..Slan mo charaid, Tom😊
William and Jen💜💙🌱🌹
When drying green wood it is a good idea to paint or wax the ends. It makes the wood dry more evenly and slower to minimize cracking. People that carve spoons and such store them in the freezer with the shavings in a bag to slow down the drying process.
Also peel it AFTER drying!
I was taught at a young age from a mentor of mine to keep a shoulder height stick with me. When ever I try to convince someone of the ways of the staff, I show them one of your videos (:
I also find you can achieve a sandpapered effect by scraping the wood with the spine of your knife (only works with a 90 degree spine) or the edge if you don't mind dulling it a bit. It takes off thin shavings and leaves a nice smooth surface but still grippy
Pretty much the same effect as a cabinet scraper that a lot of (traditional) furniture makers and carpenters use. another common used alternative is take one of those stanley utility blades. makes the work silky smooth in one go.
Why do it feel like this guy is going to teach me quiddich.
hahaha
Not in touch with the great outdoors, history, or hand crafts?
The accent
I used rubber chair foot protectors on both ends of my favorite stick. Perhaps not too traditional, but they work very well and, unlike metal, will not damage sidewalks and floors. (Yes, I know you should be using them in the woods, but sometimes...) They also work well in dirt and on rocky terrain and slip less than metal on rock surfaces. The do less damage to trails, too.
I wonder if one could make a wood /resin cap where you essentially just wax the caps with resin at regular intervals along with the oiling.
@@seanboyd2898 just like turning a bowl, only smaller. No worries...
Exactly. I use the same.
And you walk on toes too. I hope you got your tree harvested by someone sustainably because I know you were just too afraid to cut down something in the woods
@@MrKieras666 Nah. We had to cut down a lot of trees to build our house. We have 27 acres of woods and I cut stuff whenever I want, including my staffs. The trees do replace themselves with no effort from me. In fact I have some thinning I need to do near the house.
But I've also hiked on very worn trails and understand that we (americans) are loving our outdoor spaces to death.
Just because I try not to do damage to them doesn't make me some kind of "oh my god, tree hugger".
Don't be so quick to jump to judgement on little information.
On the top of my staff I have entangle a mini compass within the bank line, I line up my staff with the ground and thus have my bearings...greeting from France.
Awesome Tom. Definitely add more staff videos. Fun and practical. As for the bottom the staff. Hammer in a good sized nail to the depth that gives you the point length you want then cut off the head. You can add a copper collar to the end epoxied in place to give it more strength as well.
Take care
Nate
I like your ideas and your workmanship. I blew my knee out on a hike in AR when I was in my 20s and had to cut a quick staff to help me get out of the woods. It's been 30 years and I still have that staff and use it for hiking. After watching your video I'm going to start making a new one.
Yew staves were used for magic wands, it's springy, dense and super hard but difficult to find a good straight bit that doesn't require harvesting too much timber.
Oak is the strongest and densest but heaviest.
Ash is the lightest one that's still reasonably hard and dense, but tends to splinter on impact/with use.
Hazel is the best for quick, straight, reliable and easily replaceable staves, but as you say is a bit lighter and weaker.
The absolute best for sheer strength, flexibility and hardness is a thorn, like Hawthorn or Blackthorn. But it's really hard to find these with good straight sections growing.
My best method is to find a Yew or Hawthorn that's ~10 years old, so 1-2 inches thick and 8-10 feet high, and harvest the whole tree to be your staff. This obviously kills the whole thing so you also have to find one that's growing in a losing situation (ie under a bigger tree that will outcompete and kill it off anyway in 10 years or so.)
Then you can usually get a few roots/branch nodes at the top of your staff which are useful for hooking things and also add loads of character to it, Gandalf style :)
Awesome! Thanks for the info buddy! Im planning on making a cudgel/ shillelagh from Black thorn when im back in Scotland. How long do you season it for?
When I lived in the UK, I was spoiled for choice in stick-making wood but here in Sweden, I'm a lot more limited.
Any thoughts on this list..?
Birch
Aspen
Alder
'Scots' Pine
'Norwegian' Spruce
Goat Willow
Tom Olorin
It doesn’t always kill the whole plant, as long as the roots are left intact. For example, a hazel can, when left alone, live about 150 years, but some living hazel roots in England date back to Roman times, because the trees have been continuously replenished by coppicing.
I have a Yew Half stave (actual half of a limb) which I originally cut for a longbow but was now contemplating making into a staff. I was worried that it may bend eventually. Its been seasoned for about 9 years. Do you think that would make a good staff once shaved down?
Be careful with Yew. Even the shavings are poisonous. Having it all day in a sweaty hand, eating etc. I've read something about poisonings from bows and this is worse.
On the other hand a lethal dose should be around 40-50 grams of needles so it sounds like BS. Maybe if you inhale the dust for the whole day... Still it's good to keep in mind.
Yews are pretty slow growing trees anyway. I'd feel bad cutting a big 200 years old stem for a stick. Maybe for a bow.
Just a comment to feed the algorithm, hoping that YT will recommend this video to new people
For shaving down your staff (or paddle, axe handle, etc.) I recommend finding a pocket plane (think of a two handed carpenters wood plane only it fits in one palm). There's almost no risk of taking too big a bite out of your stave.
Rather than a metal cap and spike, you can drill a hole into the end of the wood and slide a bolt into the hole with epoxy to hold it in. The bolt head makes a very tough spike and you can sharpen it as much as you want. Then use copper wire to wrap the end to prevent splitting and cover it with epoxy. I did this on a small river cane walking stick and was surprised that the epoxy stayed on the bolt head for over a hundred miles of hiking in mountainous terrain. After several years, the epoxy on the wire looks great and keeps the wire clean and coppery looking. The river cane stick is super light weight and quite strong for walking, but certainly wouldn't stand up to whacking anything. I am thinking about finding a good hickory sapling for a real staff that will build arm muscles while walking.
Once u got a metal cap.. try tapping it. or weld a captive nut in.. with the same thread as sport shoe studs/spikes then u could remove refit or change type at will...
Im a 57 yr old female from new Zealand and ive just subbed. It's fascinating. Especially the plaid video. I think gathering information along lifes journey is important. U never know what's coming up. Life is a challenge.
Thanku for yr wrk.!🐏👌🌳🌲
I love that subject, I love my stick too! .....The simplest things can be the most usefull and versatile... And simple don't mean simplistic as, like you say, you can make it thousands ways or with so much options and it will still be a "simple" stick!
"This one gang wanted me to join because I'm pretty good with a bow staff......" N.D.
Gosh!!
FRICKING IDIOT, GOSH
Skills man, girls only like guys with skills!
R/thathappend
Tina, eat the ham
(Bo staff)
Well, I thought I had my weekend planned out until I just saw the vid. Now I have to change my schedule to go to the woods to cut and start preparations for a staff! To the woods!!
To add a spike to the bottom, or a spear to the top, look into "tee" nuts. They're used in furniture a good bit, and you can get them in larger sizes.
Personally, I like to keep the staff as "traditional" as possible. The more doodads you add, the less well everything functions. A spear should be designed from the beginning as a spear, for example, lest you risk a weak joint between blade and shaft.
One trick I like to use is to insert about 3" of landscaping spike into the bottom end. The large head of the spikes gives you quite a bit of durability and traction without resorting to a metal cap, and the thicker shafts of the spikes adds just a touch of weight that can be quite nice when thumping someone. Pretty easy to drill a 3" hole straight down the center, but the spikes are a foot long if you want to try inserting the whole thing. Adding to both ends maintains the balance if you think that's an important thing for what you are doing.
Since I'm a blacksmith, I will forge the heads a bit thinner and wider, both to better cover the end of the staff and to give the whole thing more of that "hand forged" look like you might expect on a traditional staff. This is important, imo, on the upper end where the metal will be seen. The thicker OEM head on the spikes works plenty fine enough for the foot end that's always planted in the ground since it'll quickly be abraded.
If you think you'd like to form your own cap for the foot, there are a couple good videos on youtube that show you how to dome the end of some copper pipe. Here's a good video from Torbjorn that shows the forging of a spike and the shaping of a copper cap. One more reason why it's good to be a blacksmith! :D th-cam.com/video/Et5XFXcIBsc/w-d-xo.html
Great video Tom. Just like to say my late father used to put a used shotgun cartridge at the end of his sticks to stop splitting. Worked a treat.
Thats a good idea!
Thats what I do I knock the primer out and screw in a self drilling screw from the inside last a long time and it hardened for drilling threw steel.I just use electrical tape around the hull to secure.Want to change it untape it.Try to find 10 guage if possible.
For a spike/cap consider a copper water hammer arrestor. It's a long, seamless capped tube, some are pointy, and copper can be patina'd in many colors.
Great video! Around a year ago I watched the other vid and when I get chance I'll send you a pic of the lovely ash staff I made following your advice. I'm now gunna use this stuff in this video to finish it off nicely. I've mostly been using it as a walking aid and to practice fire staff moves, I now believe all humans need a good staff!
Love watching your skills. When I saw Ur vids I instantly went on the hunt for some wood. I haven't made a staff but a utility walking stick which holds a saw, knife, parracord and a compass and it's amazing. I'm now addicted to staff making. Thanks for the motivation
Awesome tutorial. Thank you! I prune a lot of trees and saved a big pomegranate branch for just this purpose. If you aren’t familiar with the 3 cut method, check it out. It’s a great way to protect a tree when harvesting branches 🙂
You should see mine, I have a wooden version of the standard orthopaedic forearm crutch but with an antler handle and semi precious stones. It is absolutely unique.
I use plumbing parts for the ends of my staves, depending on the look I want, copper and cast (gas)pipe caps work well, you can also find threaded "couplers"
I was also thinking along those lines also.
Low carbon steel end caps.
Good idea. Having a mate who was a gas fitter helps. I did my trade as a welder.
In Arizona I used wood from the saguaro cactus. When the cactus dies the flesh falls away and you're left with long shafts that just need to be cut to length. It's very light weight and very strong. Very little sanding is needed and they are already dried by the sun and no bark to remove!
ive been drying a good cedar branch for nearly a year now . I've read it isn't the best material but I was doing some work for my boss and it "spoke to me"
live in a city? a $10 wooden rake or broom handle can be a damn fine substitute! thanks for the tips!!
A broom stick is too short and light to be used as a weapon. Yeah, you will hit your oponent with ease, but by no means you will disable him/her unless you aim to the handa.
@@chettonex you mean to tell me that you don't think someone practiced with a jo, hanbo, or escrima stick could break a tibia of fibula? against an armoured opponent, you could be right; there is a tremendous reason a guy with a knife is no match for a guy with a 5' or even 3' hardwood stick. i feel as though your view is skewed by some information you're without.
@@chettonex an oak broomstick is far harder than bone, fairly heavy, generally 1" in diameter and 5'6"ish in length....real life experience tells me that my cousin was immediately disabled when i clacked his foot out from under him, with a broken tibia, and then a broken forearm (i dont remember which one) when i clacked him in the arm on his way down. but i guess you never held an oak broomstick...because when you buy an oak jo (which is essentiallythe same thing, 51.5" in length or something like that and like 15/16th" in diameter) they warm you that it isnt a toy, can break bone, and cause tremendous bodily harm including death....but yeah i mean i guess you're right
I love you videos like a lot, really, a lot... I have been loving Scotland since a long time now and finding this piece of art... Is blow minding! Please, keep going like this, I really thank you for your effort and the passion you have for the things you do... Hugs from far away! Sorry for my grammar, is not that good yet but I'm trying!
For the end cap you can use a copper plumbing endcap. The are not very long, but they do protect the end. For a sharper point add a screw or nail from the back (fill gap with epoxy). They do sell spear butt caps, but they run $20 or so in America.
I’d like to see you test this idea:
I read that in old Japan, there was a practice of hollowing out the top 8 inches or so of a walking staff and having a poisoned metal dart inside it, so when you’d flick the top of the staff forward, the dart would shoot out at the target at high velocity. Seems like a lot easier system than the staff sling or atlatl or whatever else. Would like to see it in action! I imagine it requires a pretty thick staff to accomplish, and maybe even some special preparation of the interior, hollowed out section.
They prrobably used bamboo staffs.
Another trick besides powder such as salt which can be thrown was ball bearings down the inside. The shaft needs to be smooth. The length of shaft effects the force of the throw. Great force can be achieved with a whipping motion. And even a patterned multiple ball bearing attack be achieved. Another trick which might be best with a short staff, would be some object inside the shaft such as a lead weight, attached with a length of heavy fishing line. The length of line can be varied to some extent. On a dark night such a device could reach out and touch something unseen. A steel end cap that had threading to uncap would work. Of course legality may be an issue in some countries. I always have believed that knowledge is always moral. But such a device in practice may be illegal and immoral.
Interesting mate. Never heard of that. I will look into it :) cheers for the idea!
Great video and extremely helpful. With the council of a couple people I made a great concoction to treat your staff. It's one part boiled linseed oil, one part melted beeswax, and two parts turpentine. I hope this helps someone. Slán.
Awesome vid man. You should definitely do one on simple bo drills that beginners can do easily. Something simple that we can just bust out for a bit of exercise for when we are in the bush.
Enjoyed watching this! The nice thing about the staff is that anyone can get one, and as you have shown, it as so many practical uses. Keep them coming👍🏻
I've been dabbling in bojitsu, I guess it's bojutsu, for a few years and it answered my age old crisis of being bored working out in the gym or at home. I had to figure out that I'm not comfortable with fluorescent lights or synthetic equipment.
I need the trees, breeze and skyscape around me. I need to be transported back to the Pre-Roman Highlands or Han China, following the motions and rhythms consistent throughout thousands of years of our history.
It's about creating a myth that suits you and living up to that myth, even if it's just in your imagination.
Thats awesome man! I am mostly strained in Japaneses Jo staff, so I'm sure there would be similarities. I love the meditative state you can get in when everything is in full flow. I will look into bojutsu more. Thanks for sharing
I'm only self and TH-cam taught, so maybe saying I practice bojutsu isn't accurate. But I feel the flow state and sort of calculate what would be the most natural flow from strike to strike so I'm not wasting precious seconds during a fight adjusting to the next position. It's so much fun.
Thanks for replying! Your videos are some of my all time favorites, I'll continue to share them. : )
@@FandabiDozi Hi, thx for sharing your passion, i recognize mine when i was travelling for south america with staff. Usually used for junggling with fire (i put some kevlar support in each side, loved it for balance and weight), but also for silambam practice.
When i was watching your video, i believed it was also silambamtam (from Kalari, South India). I guess you already know, but in case you don´t, please just look at it :D
I´m pretty sure we share a passion in commun, and I realize admire your authenticity. Juste be yoursel and keep connected with your roots.
Crepe myrtle is what I use. If you have access to any try it it'sa extremely hard and tough , and some grow just like staffs. All you have to do is cut it.
I'd love to know more about staff sling and how you use it in conjunction with a tent/tarp - also would love to figure out easy ways to attach loops to the lashing for carrying if needed etc!
I made a quarterstaff for walking in unven terrain from a 1.25'' hardwood dowel. I've put a rubber ferrule on as it prevents the staff slipping, unlike a metal one. However, I may change to a cord binding as you've demonstrated as the wooden end will slip less than metal.
Oh wow 😲, it’s handy in these parts where you are at, very interesting and informative. Thanks for sharing your time 👍
I have staffs that I have made and keptbfor 50 years. Hickory, ash or oak, but my favorite is Southwood. Very light and strong, native in Appalachia. Mine has carried me through too many roundabouts to remember.
I've made myself an octagonal staff. The old karate masters of Okinawa would make their nunchucks octagonal to have more impact force so I decided to do that with a staff.
How did you manage that pray tell? I could see that becoming very tedious without some sort of power tool...
@@wakanakapisihello5655 took a 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" piece of lumber from local hardware store and used a hand chisel on each corner. Was actually quite easy.
Nunchucks are pretty dumb. I would rather have a stick.
I started maintaining a neglected coppice of hazel and ash in my local woods and they are just getting ready to harvest.
35-60mm thick and arrow straight wood, ready to harvest this winter.
Also, the woods are now much healthier as I am caring for the area properly
Yes! nuff said ;-)
Hear me out
Threaded pipe covering each end
With caps that are attached to the tools so you can for example screw on a spear head
A but late to the party here, but I made a walking staff this summer and for the metal cap I used a bit of steel pipe and a lug bolt.
Welded the bolt on the pipe and then grounded everything down into a pointy end. Works like a charm.
Hi, here the fellow staffmen from Holland. Some nice martial moves you have. Would be nice to see the basics in slow motion with some explanation of the purpose of the particular moves. Greatings Gerard
Absolutely! I was thinking the same thing. A video solely on staff martial arts
Thanks Gerard! Yeah I can do that for sure :)
Yeah, it's basically old Aikido work isn't it? Lots of info online about it and easy to learn. I prefer a lesser known style also out of Japan taught by Kono.
th-cam.com/video/tr7w0fjifAw/w-d-xo.html
Quick tip for martial arts use: if you intend to mount any kind of edge or tip it can help to give it an oval or hexagon shape to help with edge alignment.
Just thinning an edge can help because greater force on a smaller surface area leads to more damage, if that's what you're going for.
"How to make the ultimate staff" treat your employees with respect and pay them a reasonable wage.
Sorry, that is an unacceptable strategy in the modern world.
As a woodsman, tradesman and a martial artist, I found this video particularly interesting.
If you run across someone who knows how to use a staff for self-defense, irl?
Be very polite to that person.
Very polite.
If it’s someone who has been trained I would say it’s irresponsible to train anyone to wield a weapon or martial arts you would ever be afraid to anger.
I’ve had over 20 years of martial arts training, I and pretty much everyone I’ve come across turn into people who are able to a extreme degree control their temper.
A large part of martial arts training should be mental training.
And I’ve seen teachers refuse to train people who they deem would be dangerous.
Most people who start to master martial arts of some sort learn to have extreme respect for violence and their own ability to cause it.
Most people who last more then 2 years of martial arts training is the people you could shout just about whatever foul thing you can think of, but if you go over the line and start to physical hurt them or anyone else.
You will be on the floor, and quickly made sure you no longer are able to continue whatever you started
@@IQzminus2 he just said to be afraid to anger them which basically means don't be stupid and aggressive around them not that you should be afraid in general of them
random chicks music
What I’m saying is that with people who are skilled in a martial art are probably among the people on Earth you are going to have the hardest time ever to anger, no matter how stupid or badly someone is acting.
People tend to get a lot more stable and like overall chill as a person. Like pretty much everyone gets some personal growth and turn it more chill, empathic and non-aggressive people.
You sort of have to. Because that is the sort of person you need to be when you have the capability of hurting others
I need some more nifty ideas about making myself the most helpful and wicked staff for my travels. I only have one arm.
Shadow in Path of Exile after killing Oak:
That's what you get when you bring a stick to a knife fight.
(Help Alira)
@@SepticXable
No, she just hit the ground quite hard.
Nice video, Tom. I've made a number of simple sticks. Usually I cut them from chestnut as thumb sticks, but sometimes I cut them from hazel; and usually I don't bother straightening or shaving the stick, I just round the ends and bore one or two small holes to put a thread through (to hang up the stick or to hand something from the stick).
For the end, try googling for "alpine spike ferrule".
Staip 1. Goo ta hoom depot
Staip 2. Gaht a brroomsteck.
Dare ya goo, ya bastarrd.
Great video. As for a spearhead for it, look up Cold Steel Bushman. It is a knife, but also is intended to fit over the end of a staff and held there by friction, or there is a hole in the handle were a screw or eyelet screw can be put to keep it more firmly attached and more easily removed. Great channel btw. Cheers.
stick fighting the oldest martial art
I carried a ski pole that had a metal spike for sticking in the ice not much good for fighting with but it gave me added traction on slopes and rough terrain. Handy item-- the staff
Take a broom and cut off the broomy part so you’re left with a staff.
The sheer speed of that swing at 9:46 sounded great! Another great video, thank you.
Why does his voice sound like he's about to ask for a second breakfast?
thank you for this nice idea, i refuse to believe that there is the ULTIMATE STICK or BO because every human has its own skills, movements and measurements, but you gave me an idea, how i could make my hanbo, jo and bo much cheaper and easier than running to a shop. I love people vreting things and in the old days fighters had to built and care for their equipment themselves. I think thats a good video. Carry on like this. Loving it.
I was really interested in the difference between Hazel and Ash? I was always taught to go ash for my scout staff as it was the best. On that point where does rowan fall in the staff making material?
Finally have a look at the scout stuff for staff mods there are all sorts of marks etc which allow you to do fun things. The dump has loads of scout books and magazines to nose at.
Ash for me, hazel drive too wonky and is less durable. A young sapling is best.
Oiling for hardness is an interesting thought. Was taught to dry wood for arrows with smoke for hardness. You can heat up rings of steel and slip them onto ends, when it cools it will shrink into the wood slightly. Thanks for video.
No. metal/steel doesn't expand/contract enough. better to really dry the ends of the staff, then hammer-on to close-fit the ring, then let the timber absorb moisture again. you can buy/make metal cleats/wedges to fix the metal rings same as hammer/axe heads.
Im not sure my stick is long enough 😁
Dont worry man. Size doesnt matter, its how you use it! ;) haha!
It's all in the angle of the dangle
Lol
That's what she said...
A copper plumbing cap with a hole drilled in it to accommodate a fairly large diameter nail fastened with epoxy might work. The copper will get a beautiful patina and a good quality epoxy will hold it tight for a very long time. Might be worth a try. Good luck.
2:23 Americans laugh in hickory
Hickory is great, but Osage orange is pure beast mode if you're man enough to work it...
I made one out of dogwood in 2005. It was strong but it cracked. I can't seem to find it now though. I made my daughter one out of white ash and it didn't crack and is holding up well. It has some flex to it which is nice.
@@andyblack5687 Ash should do well I think. I'm about to try Osage or locust, whichever turns up first in the woods. Gotta find my spokeshave tho, it's MIA
Wakanakapisi Hello Ah. Is locust wood good for staves? I can find those around here easier than ash. Sadly, dogwood trees are getting rarer due to a blight that’s wiping them out. I would like to try hickory but I haven’t been able to find a straight piece that’s the right length yet.
@@andyblack5687 I would certainly think so. It's got a really sense grain that runs pretty straight as I recall, for pure tough all I can say is it makes the blades on chainsaws throw sparks pretty consistently. I mean damn, that's hard as hell...if not I guess you can stick em in the ground and water them, might take root and grow!
Old forester here. Used a staff everyday to accomplish dozens of measurements on dozens of trees for the Forest Inventory and Analysis program of the USFS. Now they use sonar devices, which arent so good at saving ur neck while trudging thru the Cumberland plateau. Great video thank you. (Mine was sweet birch, also im a kyoshi yodan in kempo bugei)
When I was in my teens, the advice I got was to stop in the low ground and tie knots in alders, and what have you. As long as you did not break them, in 10 or so years, you had a useful - disposable - device. The advice was to tie 100 or more. Almost 5 decades later, I come back to the staff. Cheers
I have used metal bushings that I found at my local tractor supply/farm goods store to cap some of my hiking sticks. They worked well to keep the ends from splitting and looked okay, but I found they made the stick heavier than I liked. I enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing.
I carved a walking/fighting staff back in the 1980's. I liked the texture of the whittled wood and left it pretty much that way. I didn't carve canals for the end cords but drilled a hole in each end and then weaved leather cords around the shafts and then pulled the ends through the holes to end up under the other side leather. Finishing it I got them wet so that they would shrink. When I make my next walking staff I'll repeat this process and then burn the wood with a torch, rub it down, and then oil it with boiled lindseed oil. It will blend into the woodland much better than a bright yellow staff.
Great video! Just a quick note: Debarking before the wood dries will cause it to split. But leaving an excess length, as you did, will mostly solve the problem.
Madrone is fantastic if you are in the Pacific US. It often has nice, straight branches, and is a very hard wood. I use a thicker, shorter one more or less like a primitive hammer. For example, the ‘baton’ method in which you can split wood with a knife hitting the back of the blade with a stick.
I've built several staffs. A few were from hollow aluminium pipe, it comes out at about the same weight, but is far stronger. It's easy to thread attachments into aluminium. For an 'ice-spike' for a wooden staff you could drill the end-grain to accept a long, self-taping bolt. Lock two nuts against each other to the depth it goes into the wood, then hacksaw the bolt off at an angle to make your spike. Grind it down further if you want. To remove the spike you just have to remember to always turn the nut closest to the wood. To put it in again always turn the nut furthest from the wood.
and now to watch this one again! had to remove a few saplings on my property due to placement and I've got enough to make staves for the whole family
Very nice. I've been thinking a lot about this lately, as I walk the rugged woodland everyday and use a rough walking stick I cut and constrictored after breaking my store bought stick out there. It could be a bow possibly, and a sling, and staff and spear. My dogs leash drops over the top, then the stick lanyard loop goes up and over to secure the leash handle. I can walk my dog quickly through brush on steep muddy terrain that way and leash is attached below my handhold that way, as it slides down the length of the attached lanyard loop. To detach the leash, I simply slide it up and off the stick end.
Wanted to make a bow and learned a bit about how powerful staffs are in right hands...Remembered how people in games fight with bows at close range and thought about making "staff" :)
Nice video,thanks for ideas on shaping it
For your fishing attachment. Buy carbon fiber arrows- cut to about 12", glue in inserts to accept fishing points. Locate thin metal tubing with ID close to OD of arrow. Drill end of staff and epoxy length of tubing. Use small rubber o rings or thread wrap to get your fit. Last light bank cord to shaft of arrow and your wrist. Now you have a slender dart to stick the fish or frog that slips out, leaving you a hand line to retrieve your meal. I have used bamboo for years but mine were not intended for SD- still work for thrusts but not for slashing moves.
As for a spike for the end, check out the spike lug nut covers truckers use on their truck tires. They screw on, so you can replace them when needed.
I absolutely 100% want to hear more brilliant ideas that you have for staffs from Martial arts to creative inventive ideas absolutely 100% have a great deal of interest in it
You can use tea leaves and coffee to stain wood, not sure the process for tea but for coffee I'd say it's rather achievable out in the wilderness. From what I've heard all you have to do is make some coffee, let it cool, take a brush and sort of paint it on. The longer you let it sit, the darker the stain.